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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  chillers ("john brumley")
  Electric vs. gas... ("Greenly, Jeff")
  Re:  Hops In The Bottle? (gsferg)
  Hops in the bottle (Len Safhay)
  Re: RIMS thermocouple location (Martin_Brungard)
  Walkin Coolers and Cutting Stainless (ThE HoMeBrEw RaT)
  Re: RIMS thermocouple location (Rob Dewhirst)
  RE: RIMS thermocouple location ("Laborde, Ronald")
  Re: Cutting Stainless ("Carroll G. Pate")
  RE: Agave Mead ("Don Van Valkenburg")
  Munich O'Fest "must sees" ? ("Spinelli, Mike")
  RE: Roggenbier ("Dennis Lewis")
  RE: zinc and esters ("Houseman, David L")
  Temperature controller + fridge == true love! (Dan.Stedman)
  RIMS PID (Mike.Szwaya)
  re: beers that make you sick (Danny Breidenbach)
  Weirdos or Brewers? ("Max McDonohue")
  problems culturing Chimay yeast (Rama Roberts)
  What's up in the Bohemian hop yards? ("Sean Richens")
  Infusion calculation ("matt dinges")


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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 01:58:44 -0500
From: "john brumley" <johnbrumley at houston.rr.com>
Subject: chillers

I read someone who used ice water in their immersion chiller.  I wonder if
anyone has set up a chiller so that the output of the chiller goes into
another heat exchanger set into a bucket of salted ice water (such as in an
ice cream freezer) and recirculated with a pump.  If you used an open system
it could be filled with sterilized water.  If you used a closed system grain
alcohol might be the best medium of heat exchange but I'm not sure what the
coefficient of heat transfer would be.  Would this be efficient?



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 04:28:47 -0400
From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu>
Subject: Electric vs. gas...

A quick question,

SWMBO and I will soon be moving to a home that is all-electric. I have
always had a gas stove to do my brewing on, and I am wondering: Will the
electric stove work as well? I guess I am concerned about scorching, with
the element in contact with the bottom of my pot. Should I fab a ring to
place under the pot to lift it away from the element? Are there more elegant
solutions that I should be considering? BTW, I need to be brewing indoors,
so a LPG burner is out of the question. 

Jeff


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 07:14:42 -0400
From: gsferg at clary.gwi.net
Subject: Re:  Hops In The Bottle?

> You haven't tried just eating the hops then drinking malt extract have you
> Len?

Don't forget the yeast, you wouldn't want this to be an exercise in futility!

And go easy on the hops- having tried this before, I can tell you it ain't 
pleasant no matter how much malt extract you swill it down with..

George-

- -- 
George S. Fergusson <gsferg at clary.gwi.net>
Oracle DBA, Programmer, Humorist
PGP Key: http://clary.gwi.net/gsferg/gsferg at clary.asc
- --------------
I am a man, I can change, if I have to, I guess.





Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 09:44:33 -0400
From: Len Safhay <cloozoe at optonline.net>
Subject: Hops in the bottle

>You haven't tried just eating the hops then drinking malt extract have
you
Len?>

Phil, as a dedicated "all-grain" man I wouldn't deign to drink malt
extract. What I did was eat a pound of pale malt, a couple ounces of
crystal, ate some hops, and drank a 1 quart starter of yeast. I then
jumped up and down vigorously to aerate.

The effect was, uh, interesting.

Chores,
Len



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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 09:53:52 -0400
From: Martin_Brungard at urscorp.com
Subject: Re: RIMS thermocouple location


Troy Hager asked about thermocouple location in a RIMS.   I do not use a
PID to manage the temperature in my system, I have found that a simple
flick of the heater switch every so often will do.  I know that I get 1
degree F for every minute of heater operation in my system.  My system has
a calibrated dial thermometer in the outlet piping from the mash tun.  The
HBD discussion on the proper sensing location the other week got me
thinking.

The past 2 brews, I have placed another dial thermometer probe into the top
of my mash to observe the temps there.  The first brew was a CACA with a
good percentage of flaked corn.  I always run my RIMS flowrate as high as I
can, but I have a standpipe monitor plumbed into the bottom of my tun, so I
know how much suction I'm placing on the grainbed.  It keeps me from
overpumping the bed and causing a stuck mash.  The initial flow rate
through my system was low with that CACA.  The temp from the bottom of the
tun was normal.  But as I tried to ramp the temp, I found the temp at the
top of my mash was easily into the 160F range, 20F to 30F higher than the
tun outlet.  I knew I had to stir my mash to loosen it up and have another
chance to get the flowrate up.  As the mash converted, I was able to
increase the flowrate and the temperature differential became very minor,
about 2F to 3F higher at the top of mash.

This was an alarming finding in my opinion.  I commonly brew for body and I
mash in the upper 150F range.  Therefore, I don't have a lot of margin for
overheating the wort and killing my enzymes.  Several of my brews have
suffered from excess starchiness or something like that.  Unfortunately, I
didn't perform iodine tests for all these mashes to see that the conversion
was complete.  So it may have been lack of conversion due to overheating,
but I will never know.  (Note to Self:  If you have the tools to check
something, don't be lazy, you may need the info someday!)

My most recent brew was a wheat ale with 45 percent wheat.  I use rice
hulls with high wheat grists.  This brew also had a multi-temp mash, so I
was concerned with overheating.  The rice hulls did their trick, since my
flowrate was adequate the entire mash.  In that mash, the mash top temp
never exceeded a few degrees over the bottom temp.

The bottom line here is that flowrate means everything in a RIMS in order
to avoid overheating the wort.  A PID that can modulate the heater power
input.  You can still manage the temps at the top of your mash manually,
but not if you aren't measuring them.  The other conclusion I can make is
that a PID controller should probably measure the wort temp at the top of
the mash.  That way the PID can keep the wort temp from getting too high.

People with PID-controlled systems shouldn't be too smug here.  Without
temp measurements at the top AND bottom of your mash, you could still be
doing things differently than you think you are.  A thermometer probe
should be placed somewhere near the mash bottom or in the tun outlet
plumbing so that the outlet temp can be monitored too.  The outlet temp is
much more constant than the inlet temp.  I still consider it the best
location to monitor the mash temp, but it will not be the only place I
measure temperatures anymore!!!

Martin Brungard
Tallahassee, FL



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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 07:23:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: ThE HoMeBrEw RaT <skotrat at yahoo.com>
Subject: Walkin Coolers and Cutting Stainless

Hiya, 

probably nothing new being said here but I do have the experience
with home walkins. I built mine a few years ago and discussed process
with local HVAC guys that I know. Vapor barriers are needed
everywhere. Floor, side walls, ceiling, everywhere. Your fan
unit/evap device should be kept extremely clean. If you are draining
the evap into a bucket inside the walkin you are defeating the
purpose. You need to make sure that the evap liquid is drained to
somewhere outside the walkin. You may also want to look into getting
an inside door walkin curtain so that air is not rushing in or out
every time you open your door. In Chicago my walkin only had a
humidity problem in the late spring. You can check out my walkin page
at: 

http://www.brewrats.org/walkin.cfm

I picked up a new walkin (13' x 18') off of ebay that is sitting in
pieces in my barn in my New Hampshire home. I am thinking of building
two units with it. One for the house and one in the barn. 

Now... Cutting kegs. I have converted about 200 kegs (all legally
obtained of course...) for either myself or for other brewers. I have
used a variety of devices to cut the tops open. Plasma torch, air
hammers, sawzalls, grinders, etc. I have to say that my tool (uh huh
huh I said tool...) is my handy dandy 4.5" Dewalt grinder. I can
accurately and smoothly grind open a keg and finish the sharp edges
in about 20 minutes on each keg. One tool.... Not much fuss... Please
remember to always where eye/face protection as stainless splinters
hurt pretty bad when they penetrate your face... 

You can check out my Po Mans keg conversion page at: 

http://www.brewrats.org/keg101.html

Hope this stuff helps. 

C'ya!

 -Scott "Skotrat" Abene


=====
"Dogs love me cause I'm crazy sniffable
I bet you never knew I got the ill peripheral"
 -bboys

http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat - Skotrats Beer Page
http://www.brewrats.org - BrewRats HomeBrew Club



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 09:42:38 -0500
From: Rob Dewhirst <robd at biocomplexity.nhm.ukans.edu>
Subject: Re: RIMS thermocouple location


>
>From: Troy Hager <thager at hcsd.k12.ca.us>
>
>On first thought, I wondered why not put it right at the
>outlet of the mash tun since that is where we are trying to control the
>temp, but with more thought I realize that we are actually trying to control
>the temp of the entire liquid portion of our mash because that is were all
>the enzymes are located and where all the work gets done.

If you put the sensor on the mash tun exit, you insulate the heater from 
the sensor with the mash bed.  This creates a lag in the response time of 
the heater.

>Therefore, I
>suppose a sensor at the heater outlet would make more sense because you
>would want to bring the mash liquid up to the desired temp and measure it as
>it came out of the heater - otherwise risk over-heating with the element to
>raise the temp at some other location in the loop.

Yes, this is a good place.  The heater kicks on and off more quickly, but 
more frequently.  Less of a chance to scorch.

>BTW, has anyone measured the difference of the temperature before and after
>the heater... and is there a big difference?

Not much.  A couple of degrees.

>I know that every system would
>be different in this regard, every system would loose heat at a different
>rate, but I was just wondering if, because of the high rate of
>recirculation, the temperature is pretty constant throughout the loop in
>most cases.

It is constant if you don't have a large lag.

I used to have my sensor on a copper pipe that I stuck in the middle of my 
grain bed.  It gave a more accurate mash temp, but resulted in 
carmelization on the element.  Now I manually measure the mash temp and I 
know on warmer days it's about 1 degree below the temp measured at the 
heater exit.  On colder days it's about 2-3 degrees (just in the heat loss 
from the plumbing to the return manifold).  I just account for this in 
setting the temp for recirculation.

As you said, each system will be different.



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 09:30:07 -0500
From: "Laborde, Ronald" <rlabor at lsuhsc.edu>
Subject: RE: RIMS thermocouple location

>From: Troy Hager <thager at hcsd.k12.ca.us>
>
>..Therefore, I
>suppose a sensor at the heater outlet would make more sense because you
>would want to bring the mash liquid up to the desired temp and measure it
as
>it came out of the heater - otherwise risk over-heating with the element to
>raise the temp at some other location in the loop....

If the temp coming out of the heater is at mash temp, it would take a long
time for the entire mash to reach that temperature.  Just as infusion
requires liquor a bit hotter than desired mash-in temp, so would the RIMS.


>BTW, has anyone measured the difference of the temperature before and after
>the heater... and is there a big difference? I know that every system would
>be different in this regard, every system would loose heat at a different
>rate, but I was just wondering if, because of the high rate of
>recirculation, the temperature is pretty constant throughout the loop in
>most cases.

Here is where we seem to get quite different results depending who you are
talking to.
What my system shows is that the entry liquor temp is of course warmer than
the mash temp on a ramp, and the output temp from the mash is much cooler at
first.  It takes TIME for the entry liquor to filtrate down through the mash
and finally show up as the increased output temp at the bottom of the mash
filter.

If one is not careful, it is easy to overshoot by not factoring this in. At
first it may appear that the ramp is not occurring, only to suddenly find
the somewhat rapid rise after you have achieved follow-through.

The method that works is to believe; believe that things are working, and in
due time the mash will ramp up to desired temp.  Patience!

Ron La Borde

Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsuhsc.edu
http://hbd.org/rlaborde



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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 09:51:17 -0500
From: "Carroll G. Pate" <patecg at trip.net>
Subject: Re: Cutting Stainless




Glen Writes:

>From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com>
>Subject: Cutting stainless


>As for the noise, I cut the keg in my basement using hearing protection
>while my wife and son both took a nap on the second floor.

There is a simple and elegant answer to the noise problem and to the
question of blade life.  Remove the central fitting and fill the keg with
water.  The water will dampen (pun intended) the noise and also cool the cut
area and thus prevent hardening of the SS.  From my experience the water
level should be high enough for the recipicating blade to pull water into
the cut.  A little mess from the water splash but no worse than the SS dust.

YMMV

Carroll in Corpus Christi








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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 09:33:38 -0700
From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <don at steinfillers.com>
Subject: RE: Agave Mead

I believe I first introduced agave to the homebrewing world back in 1997
through my shop, Stein Fillers.  Since then I have won several awards for
agave mead and most recently "best of division" for a 100% agave wine at the
L.A. County home wine competition and received best of show in the
fruit/vegetable, other category.  I would have entered it in a homebrew
competition, but just didn't know what division/style, or even if it should
be considered a beer.

Agave is a fermentable, not a flavoring.  Thus small amounts do not impart
much, if any flavor.  Something like using wheat - hard to taste if you only
have 1 lb in a 10 lb recipe.  But, when you get up into the 50% range agave
has a nice flavor and smoothes out mead with great results.   My favorite
combination is half sage or orange blossom honey and a some orange peel in
the fermenter in post-fermentation.

Agave has been available in two colors, light and dark.  When I first tried
both, I found the light, which is basically sucrose derived from the
carbohydrates of the agave plant, doesn't have much or any flavor.  You
could use corn syrup with the same results.  But the dark has that "agave"
flavor which when fermented and concentrated via distilling gives you
tequila.

Thus when formulating recipes, I usually think of what goes into a
margarita; orange, lime, citrus.  So, when using any acid, I prefer citric
acid to acid blend.  At the Southern California Homebrew Fest, I had an
agave mead which I simply diluted out with the juice of about 1 dozen
lemons.  This was kind of like refreshing lemon-aid, agave mead.

I also think there is room for experimenting with agave in Belgian recipes
that use candy sugar.

More on agave at:  www.steinfillers.com

Homebrew shops can purchase agave from Crosby & Baker.  I also sell it on
the retail level.


Don Van Valkenburg
brew at steinfillers.com
www.steinfillers.com



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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:26:03 -0400
From: "Spinelli, Mike" <paa3983 at dscp.dla.mil>
Subject: Munich O'Fest "must sees" ?

HBDers,

Going to Munich for O'fest from Sept 30th to Oct 8th.  Other than the Tents
and my favorite Klosterbrauerei Andechs, are there any other "must sees" ?

Interests are brewery tours, small pubs, etc.

Thanks,

Mike Spinelli
Cgerry Hill, NJ 


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:38:03 -0400
From: "Dennis Lewis" <dblewis at lewisdevelopment.com>
Subject: RE: Roggenbier

> I am concerned with the lack of beta glucan rest (95-104F according to Fix).
> I brewed a hefe-rye with the following ingredients, but failed to do the
> glucan rest (had company...started to drink a few..) and found that it came
> out too thick (for most...but not for me).
(snip) 
> 8 lb Canada Maltings 6 row (recommended to me for its beta glucanase)
> 4lb rye (too muc for a pils..)

I just brewed my attempt at a Bavarian Roggenbier last Sunday. The mash
was *different* to say the least. My grain bill was 6# rye malt, 2# pils
malt, 1# 20L crystal, 1# 80L. I did a full temp mash (40-50-60-70) with 
a decoction between 60 and 70 C. It rested for maybe 20 min at 40C, then
the 15 min at 50C (132F). It converted very quickly at 70C. 

One very strange thing I noticed is that the feel of the mash was very
slippery--kinda like silicone spray on your fingers. Not the usual
sticky sugar solution that you normally get. I added 1# of rice hulls
after the decoction mash, but prior to the 70C alpha rest.

My lauter tun is a false bottom (3/32 on 5/32 ctrs) in a keg with a 
bottom drain. I have a recirc pump for the vorlauf. It ran for 1.5 hours
with very little clearing in the wort, except for the lack of big chunks.
It did not show any signs of sticking. It ran as fast as a regular mash.
There was a lot of very fine, insoluble-looking stuff in the clear run-off.
I decided that it was probably never going to clear, and ran it into the 
kettle anyway. I skimmed the hot break as it collected on the top of 
the boil but never did see any 'egg drop soup' looking flakes of break.

The boil and everything else went ok. I got a huge amount of break material
in the final volume. I added a dose of irish moss flakes at 30 min left.
Hops were bittering only (.85oz Saaz 3.3%aa 90min). I let it settle in the 
kettle after chilling for 7 hours. I lost about 1.25 gal of a 5.25 gallon
batch to the break! Bummer. The clear wort still had that slippery feel
to it. Fermentations going fine with W3068.

The extraction rate on this batch was mediocre, somewhere in the 28 ppg
range. With regular wheat beers, I expect around 32. I attribute this to 
a poor crush with the rye malt--the kernels are smaller than barley malt
and probably didn't get fully crushed. With rye being 60% of the grist,
it made a big difference.

I'll report the post-ferment/bottling results in a couple weeks.

Dennis Lewis
Warren, OH

In wine there is wisdom. In beer there is strength.
In water there is bacteria. --German Proverb 


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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 10:24:37 -0400
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: RE: zinc and esters

Brian Lundeen says I've "tried to slip one by with..." my discussion of zinc
and esters.  Well yes perhaps one was slipped by but not by me.  In fact
this nearly got by me.  You see there was this discussion, last year or
early this year (can't remember) on HBD about zinc.  It sort of ended
without conclusions.  Usually the scientists among us take these points to
concluding experiments, but I didn't see it with the use of zinc tablets.
So I thought I'd give it a try and reported one data point.  The beers so
far (3) have no zinc or metallic taste.  I suspect a single 30mcg tablet is
below flavor threshold, but I'll keep tasting for any metallic flavors ;-)

As far as ester production in the growth phase of yeast, I believe that's
fairly well documented.  And I can't recall who's posting or which article
caused the light bulb to go on that there are two ways to get sufficient
yeast in the wort.  One is to simply pitch it all at once, expecting little
growth, and the other is to pitch less yeast but aerate well to create the
conditions for rapid growth and subsequent fermentation.  However the ester
production is different in these two cases, or so I've read.  And I gave it
a try.  The optimum amount of yeast cells per degree plato wort is well
documented.  Me, I just pitched "a hellava lot" of yeast into a normal 1.048
wort without aerating.  It was a lager.  It took off like crazy and finished
without a hint of fruitiness.  Again, not scientific, just a data point.
Perhaps it was my yeast (Saflager S-23)?  Perhaps it was the amount of yeast
without aeration?  Someone want to devise an experiment?

Yes, the implication in production of esters in the final beer nearly
slipped by me as well.  It would seem that if you're brewing a lager where
you want very low fruitiness profile, then pitching a very large starter
(yeast slurry) would be the preferred approach.  I think I'll try this again
in an upcoming dark Vienna....

Dave Houseman




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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:20:28 -0500
From: Dan.Stedman at PILLSBURY.COM
Subject: Temperature controller + fridge == true love!



Hi all - so I just recently got my fridge fired up for controlling my
fermentation temperature (after having my last batch get up to 79 degrees, I
decided it was time!), and I just want to throw out a quick piece of advice. If
you are going to do this, get the Ranco Temperature Controller with the
adjustable differential (Northern Brewer, among other places, sell it). Then
just set the differential to 1 degree, set your desired fermentation
temperature, sanitize the probe, and drop it in your freshly-pitched wort.
Bingo! Guaranteed fermentation at your set temperature with NO variance in
temperature as the ferment starts generating heat. This technique has held my
fermentation temperature at exactly 68 deg F since Sunday, and I pitched a lot
of yeast so I know that the ferment was been very vigorous and has been
generating a lot of heat. I did notice that my Ranco reads 3 degrees lower than
the actual temperature, so I have to set it to 65 deg F to get it to keep the
wort/beer at 68. Other then that, it has worked flawlessly!

Why do you need the Ranco? The Johnson Controls one (and there are probably
others, but that is the other one that I have) has a fixed differential of 3
degrees, which might spell trouble if you are constantly going from 65 to 68
degrees and back down again during fermentation. Plus, the digital readout of
the current temperature is nice and you can use it to keep things warm as well
via an aquarium heater (which is handy for our Minnesota winters).

Just a friendly tip from Dan in Minnetonka





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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:42:42 -0700
From: Mike.Szwaya at co.clark.wa.us
Subject: RIMS PID


For those inspired to build by the recent RIMS discussions, I have an Omega
PID with Solid State Relay and heat sink on E-Bay.  I ran out of time, cash,
and interest of re-learning electronics.

Search for 'Omega' or 'PID'.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Szwaya
Portland, OR
Email: Mike.Szwaya at co.clark.wa.us



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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 15:23:23 -0500
From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu>
Subject: re: beers that make you sick

Danny Breidenbach wrote:

Alan McKay wonders about a couple of Molson offerings:

> However, one example he gave me was that Molson's
> "Rickard's Red" makes him sick every time, and he
> gets terribly hungover even after only 2 beers, while
> Molson's "Rickard's Gold" give him no such troubles.
> I would be quite suprised to find much of a difference
> between these two beers from the same manufacturer.
> The "Red" would be brewed with Crystal Malt for colour,
> and I believe it would be more ale-brewed and the "Gold"
> more lager-ish.


I have it on relatively good authority that "there is no Crystal Malt
within a kilometer of where the Red is brewed.  Strictly a color
addition."

If true, the answer could lie therein.

- --Danny in West Lafayette, Indiana




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Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 09:22:41 +1000
From: "Max McDonohue" <max at hinet.net.au>
Subject: Weirdos or Brewers?

Gooday All
Am i readin things right in here when i see a guy trying to put hops in his
beer bottles. And another guy says you should eat them? What for?
The cans i get up here (mostly freughted from South Australia I reckon cause
there Coopers) reckon the hops are already in the can. I wouldnt even know
what a hop looked like if I trod on one. What do they look like and how many
do they put in a can?

On another note, this Doctor Alexander has been talking about spacific
gravity readings. Now I know a bit about this. We use them to find out if
the truck battery has gone dead flat. But i don't need them to tell me when
my beer has gone dead flat. You can just tell by the taste. It tastes dead
flat.
Anyway, I never get close to this (cept when i leave the top off all night
and want a bit more in the morning-yuk you can hardly get it down) But
nearly always my bottles froth and carry on like mad. Guess i must be doing
something right!!
But i dont like the ones what explode. The missess goes narnars at me if it
happens in the house.

Max McDonohue



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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 17:59:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rama Roberts <rama at eng.sun.com>
Subject: problems culturing Chimay yeast

I've had 3 failed attempts to culture the yeast from the dregs of a Chimay
(both the blue label and the Cinq Cents, which is supposedly the same
yeast)- the first 2 were streaked onto plates at about 75 degrees F, and
showed no activity. My latest attempt was dumping all of the sludge into a
300 ml well aerated starter, which hasn't shown acivity for several days
now.

>From what I've gathered, recycled Chimay yeast is viable. The only thing
to watch out for is temperatures above 62 degrees F producing off-flavors,
but for starters, that shouldn't be much of a problem if you only pitch
the yeast. The bottles ranged from 4 months to 8 months old according to
their corks.

Any suggestions? I've got a friend who is having similar problems with
Orval yeast. 

- --rama



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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 19:50:16 -0500
From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca>
Subject: What's up in the Bohemian hop yards?

I wondered if anyone knows about how the hop business is going in the Czech
Republic.

I dropped in on a colleague at work for some hop-picking tips ('cut it down,
pick the hops off') and got to talking. On a recent visit back home he
noticed the hop yards not far from Zatec had practically nothing growing. He
asked in town and people said business was lousy and it wasn't worth the
effort, apart from a few plants for friends and family who brew.

Does anyone at HBD know why this is? One would have thought that
globalization wouldn't have had quite such an impact on a product with such
regional differences.

Sean Richens
srichens.spamsucks at sprint.ca




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Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 02:44:37 
From: "matt dinges" <matt_dinges at hotmail.com>
Subject: Infusion calculation

Good Day!
Having just purchased Ray Daniels' "Designing Great Beers" I am now able to 
do most of the calculations that I previously relied on my demo version of 
Promash to do. Personally, it seems a bit more tedious to do it by hand, but 
it isn't that difficult and it really helps me
think about exactly what is going on and what I want. Add to that the fact 
that I think I should rely on computers the least possible (read "not at 
all"). About the only thing that I can't get around is this board!

The one calculation that I haven't found in Daniels' book is how to hit your 
desired infusion
temperature (I deal with Farenheit degrees). DOes anybody know of a long 
hand formula
for this or where I can find one?
I'm thinking that it is likely more complicated than the "hitting you target 
gravity" formula,
especially if it is to be accurate down to a degree or two.
Maybe there is a chart out there someplace, that would be just as good.
Thanks for any help!
MATT




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