HOMEBREW Digest #3795 Fri 23 November 2001

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  Double Pitching Yeast for a Tripel ("Eric and Susan Armstrong")
  RE: Arogant Bastard et al ("Bissell, Todd S")
  Turkey Fryers (Mike Lemons)
  Nitro Faucets (Drew Beechum)
  Yeast starters/Alcohol. ("Colin Marshall")
  Re: Quick and Easy Guinness-style head (Jeff Renner)
  Re: carboy issues and CPBF (Jeff Renner)
  Flying Bison Brewing Company (Hop_Head)
  re: Yeast Starters (John Schnupp)
  Schmidling Maltmill ("olsen-riley")
  Gruit, herbs used in beer ("chris eidson")
  Re:  chocolate flavor ("Bruce Millington")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 22:43:48 -0600 From: "Eric and Susan Armstrong" <erica at isunet.net> Subject: Double Pitching Yeast for a Tripel I have researched some threads on dual yeast additions for a tripel, but the technique was not well defined. Timing was mentioned as critical. Also, it was recommended not to mix the yeasts in the primary and the to add the more attenuative yeast last. When is the proper time to add the second yeast? Does one add the second yeast to the primary once gravity falls below a relative point or does one add it to the secondary and hold it at the primary temperature for a couple of weeks or would you add it at bottling?" I understand that adding yeast at bottling would be a good idea since these big beers are aged. Does anyone have any first hand knowledge? Also, would cold conditioning a tripel be a good idea once the second yeast has had some time to assert itself? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 20:45:59 -0800 From: "Bissell, Todd S" <bis9170 at home.com> Subject: RE: Arogant Bastard et al Hi, The local homebrew club I'm a part of imbibes quite a bit of both Stone's and Alesmith's brews (i.e. San Diego brew club supporting S.D. craft brewers), and no other beer has stirred up as much debate as the ol' Bastard Ale. Heck, we can't even agree on it's style...! "Brown Ale on steroids", "Pseudo-Barleywine", and "American Olde Ale" are all phrases I've heard bantered about....! The consensus is that Arogant Bastard is a bigger, maltier, more bitter, and higher-alcohol version of American Brown Ale. I haven't tried cloning this brew (yet!), but if I were, I'd start out with Papazian's "Buzzdigh Moog Double Brown Ale" recipe (The Homebrewer's Companion, page 288), but use typical Stone hops: Chinook, Perle, maybe some Willamette. Cheers! Todd Bissell Imperial Beach, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 21:03:42 -0800 From: Mike Lemons <ndcent at hotmail.com> Subject: Turkey Fryers I stopped by Home Depot to examine one of those deep fryers on sale for Thanksgiving. I quickly realized that they are not stainless steel. They are aluminum. They have a 26 quart and a 34 quart. There is a small hole in the lid. The 34 quart would be big enough for 5 gallon batches if you don't mind the aluminum. The burner looked pretty heavy duty, though, probably 150,000 BTU. The stand has projections around the top edge so that if you got a stainless steel brew pot, a 60 quart probably will not fit so you would still be limited to 5 gallon batches. Here is the web page: http://www.bayou-classic.com/turkey/index.html I have a flyer from Wal-Mart that has a 30 quart fryer for $39.96. Apparently it's only available on Friday morning (?) I don't even know if this message will post by then. As for the attempt to recover beer after it's been consumed, you are not taking into account losses due to perspiration and breathing. If you want to do a proper experiment, wear a rubber suit and hold your breath. Domenick Venezia has a good web page about yeast starters. Do you really use 200 grams of DME in 1.7 liters? Does that give you a gravity of 1.117? Mike Lemons Carlsbad, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 21:55:36 -0800 (PST) From: Drew Beechum <Drew.Beechum at disney.com> Subject: Nitro Faucets First.. the cheapest faucet can be had for right around ~$45, but then you'll need all the usual stuff to adapt it to a corny, or just a $1 faucet wrench to place in a tower. Regarding pressure regulators.. It depends upon how you get the beer gas mix. If you get it in an honest to god nitro can then, yes, a special regulator is needed. If you can get it in a CO2 bottle, then your regular regulator will work cause the pressure might be higher, but it's not out of the range of the standard regulators. Cuts a little bit of cost. Fortunately in our club one of our big members sells beer, soda, CO2, and Nitro. Makes it easy to get what you want. As for all of the approximation techniques mentioned (syringe, creamer faucet, etc) they do work pretty well... but there's very little like pouring out a nice glass of nitro'd stout straight from the faucet. Fools your friends into thinking you're a Guinness heir! (And CT can attest to my love of the Nitro stout as I usually have one on tap here in the homestead) - -- Drew Beechum Maltose Falcons Los Angeles, CA [1942, 264.7] Apparent Rennerian Mark Tumarkin writes: > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 07:33:11 -0500 > From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> > Subject: Nitrogenation > > on the Nitrogenation thread, CT writes: > "In addition to the CO2 equipment, one only needs to get the > slow-pour tap and and the nitrogen (or beer gas--75/25) bottle. I'm > not sure how much the bottle will cost but a tap can be had for $70 > or so, and gas doesn't cost too much. " > > My understanding was that the nitrogen, or beer gas, also required > a higher pressure regulator than CO2? I believe the same type of > regulator as O2? Is this the case? > > Mark Tumarkin > Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 17:29:44 +1100 From: "Colin Marshall" <byoah at argay.com.au> Subject: Yeast starters/Alcohol. As my Scottish blood won't allow me to brew just one batch of beer from a single Wyeast or White Labs (and the cost is a tad prohibitive, too), I harvest the sludge from the bottom of the primary fermenter in 8 x 375 ml stubbies and store them in the fridge for future use. I sterilize everything with 50% alcohol which I make.....I mean, a bloke I hardly know makes at home. My Q. is this: will I jeopardise the yeast's viability if I don't rinse the alcohol right out of the bottles before adding the spent yeast? I imagine that it would taint the beer in there, and possibly the yeast itself, but surely vigorous fermentation afterwards would "flash off" the remaining alcohol and flavours? Thank you, Colin Marshall. "I can't think of anything clever to say, so I won't say anything at all". Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 09:18:29 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Quick and Easy Guinness-style head Alan Meeker <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> >There is an easy way to get a Guinness-style head on your stouts at home. If >you can get hold of a syringe and a thin needle you can inject air right >into your glass of stout after pouring. I've done this using a 60cc syringe >and 26G needle with great results. You don't even need the needle. I use a 10 cc oral syringe with a curved, narrow "spout," but any narrow orificed syringe should do. Long time readers will remember that I introduced this some years ago to HBD (I think I thought it up, but a British brewer said that Guinness was selling their bottles with syringes for a short time some years ago, pre-Widget. Maybe I subliminally remembered this). I also published a note in Zymurgy, and called it a 40 cent beer engine. Someone else gave it the much better name of Pocket Beer Engine, although someone yet again protested that it should be called a Pocket Sparkler. By whichever name, it works. Not only does it make a creamy head, it gets rid of overcarbonation, making a smoother beer. Just be sure to leave lots of head space if you're dealing with highly carbonated beer. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 09:11:11 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: carboy issues and CPBF "steve lane" <tbirdusa at hotmail.com> writes that he is doing everything right with his counter pressure bottle filler, but he still gets foam, then writes: >I have the keg set at serving pressure and the gas at around 8 psi. Is my >beer hose too long? It is 1/4 ID flexible clear tubing. I think this may be your problem - not the hose length, long would be better because it would lower the pressure at the filler. I think you should turn down the pressure. I'm not sure what you mean by "I have the keg set at serving pressure and the gas at around 8 psi." The pressure of the keg and at the gas in at the filler should be the same. I turn my down pretty far so I get a slow, non-turbulent flow into the bottle. Maybe 3-4 psi. Hope this helps. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 11:33:52 -0500 (EST) From: Hop_Head at webtv.net Subject: Flying Bison Brewing Company Check out Flying Bison Brewing Company http://www.flyingbisonbrewing.com and visit if you are in the Buffalo NY area. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 08:54:36 -0800 (PST) From: John Schnupp <johnschnupp at yahoo.com> Subject: re: Yeast Starters I guess I add my .02 on the yeast starter thread. It's probably not going to be much more than a me too type post. My first few uses of liquid yeast were to directly pitch a smack pack into 5 gallons of wort. Needless to say this resulted is very long lag times, on the order of 10-12 hours. The beers turned out ok, but didn't keep well. Any wonder why? Then I started stepping up the starter. One of the local shops (now out of business) sold 12 oz bottles of canned starter wort. I would step up with one bottle of canned wort. I used a "king" sized bottle and would pitch the whole thing. My lag times shortened to 6-8 hours and the beer got better. Every time I would hear of 2-3 hour lag times I would think that it was almost unobtainium. Then I made a couple 5 gallon batched of the same beer (stocking up for the summer) and I racked the wort from the second batch onto the yeast from batch one. Wow! Lag time was about 2 hours. From this I learned the importance of pitching large quantities of yeast. I built my own stirrer. I think I posted a couple times about it. Details should be in the archives. Basically it is a 12 VDC motor with a strong magnet attached to the motor shaft. The speed is adjusted by using a variable DC power supply. My first "stir bars" were a suggestion from Dave Burley, a former frequent poster on HBD. They were nails that I sealed in plastic tubing by melting the ends closed. Later I found some "real" stir bars and started using them. I also constructed a fitting so that I could continuously aerate the starter. A small aquarium pump is used with a HEPA filter. The filtered air is pumped in one side and the excess air and CO2 is exhausted out the other side. The exhaust side is air locked. I started making larger starters in a 2L and then a 3L erlenmeyer flask. Even the 3L flask rapidly became deficient. I would often have the yeast blow off the airlock. This is because of the tapered neck. As the flask fills, the volume in the neck rapidly decreases and it doesn't take much to blow the top. I switched to a 1 gallon wine jug. I also started to use some of the anti-foam stuff. I found that 1-2 drops for every quart of step up resulted in almost no foam. I am able to get 3-3.5 quarts of starter in my 1 gallon jug. I typically turn off the stirrer and air pump about 1-2 days before I brew and allow the yeast to settle. I have also used the fridge to chill the starter. In either case the results have been and same. I really don't see a difference between yeast that has been chilled and yeast that has not. The results are the same. On brew day I decant the spent starter, usually when after the sparge is complete. I then add 12 oz to 1 quart of starter to rejuvenate the yeast. I resume the stir and aeration. By the time my boil (60 minutes typical) and chill (20-30 minutes with immersion chiller) is complete, the yeast is fully charged and raring to go. My lag times are now 1-2 hours. I almost never have anything take longer than 3 hours. My unscientific experience is that pitching lots of healthy, full active yeast leads to better beer. Finally, if you are a gadget guy and/or handy with tools, there is no reason why you can't build your own equipment for continuous aeration and stirring. I don't have a web site but I do have some jpg's of some of the equipment I have built. I will be happy to offer advice to anyone who wants details. ===== John Schnupp, N3CNL ??? Hombrewery [560.2, 68.6] Rennerian Georgia, VT 95 XLH 1200, Horse with no Name Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 09:40:30 -0800 From: "olsen-riley" <olsen-riley at home.com> Subject: Schmidling Maltmill Greetings all, I've been whole grain brewing for several years now and use a Schmidling Maltmill to grind my grain. I was wondering if anyone has actually motorized one of these rigs with a motor / belt drive...I'm tired of hooking up my electric hand drill to grind 20+ pounds of grain...TIA. EO Ed Olsen / Kathy Riley Home: olsen-riley at home.com Life: edolsen at alum.mit.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 02:43:39 From: "chris eidson" <eidsonc at hotmail.com> Subject: Gruit, herbs used in beer I found the link posted by RJ in response to the inquiry about gruit fascinating. What is the collective's experience with brewing hop-free beer? What herbs were used and in what quantity? Were they difficult to obtain? Were the results worth replicating? Thanks in advance for any responses. Chris Eidson Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 22:09:04 -0500 From: "Bruce Millington" <bmillington2 at home.com> Subject: Re: chocolate flavor Happy Thanksgiving to all! I am a baker and pastry chef. I have access to Belgian chocolate liquor (pure unsweetened). When brewing chocolate stouts or porters, I put 4 oz. of chocolate into the boil (5 gal. batch) with 30 minutes remaining. Make sure this chocolate is mostly shaved off of the block before adding. Bruce Millington Return to table of contents
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