---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


***************************************************************
       THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: 

          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********


Contents:
  RE: Yeast Strain equivalency chart? (Matt Walker)
  Re: cold guinness ("Bob Hall")
  yeast strain equivalency chart ("Joseph Marsh")
  Big Bend Brew Off 2002 competition accepting entries now ("Peter Pellemans")
  Stability Testing Wort ("John Pendergast")
  Infected Secondary? ("Ralph Davis")
  Fulda, Germany ("S G")
  Yeast equivalency (Chad Clancy)
  cutting drain hole in keg ("Larry Maxwell")
  Barley Wine Fermentation ("John Gubbins")
  Re: Yeast Strain equivalency chart? (Scott Murman)
  Re: Barley Cerial Mash Questions (Joseph Kish)
  Thermometer Calibration (Bob Sheck)
  Re: Ways to cool down the closet? (Bob Sheck)
  How long to dry hop ("David G. Humes")
  RE: Yeast Strain Equivalency Chart ("R. Schaffer-Neitz")
  Chlorinated TSP: Good or Bad (G C)
  Florida Panhandle Beers & Brewing (kingkelly)
  RE: Rusty Freezers (Bob Sheck)
  dry hopping question ("Eric Stiers")


*
* Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! 
* http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping
*
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
*

Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
  "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL
  ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to
  the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address
  for the automation - that's your job.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright 
  HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK 
  before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content 
  cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to 
req at hbd.org.

JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)



----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 01:41:40 -0800
From: Matt Walker <matt at suckerfish.net>
Subject: RE: Yeast Strain equivalency chart?

gregory ramirez writes:
> I wondered if anyone here knew of a document of some kind
> which shows the
> strains of yeast use by White Labs and Wyeast so if one brand
> isnt available
> then the same yeast of the other brand may be chosen.

The closest I've found is the yeast listings on the Beer, Beer, and More
Beer website (http://www.morebeer.com/). Click on "Yeast and Yeast Starters"
and then click on almost any of the White Labs yeasts to get to the details
page. Most of them list a Wyeast equivalent.

  -- Matt



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 07:39:58 -0500
From: "Bob Hall" <rallenhall at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: cold guinness

On a trip to Belfast a few years ago I was surprised to see the "Ice Cold 
Guinness" banners hanging from pub walls. According to the bartenders, it 
was the Guinness reaction to "Ice Cold Bud," an official sponsor of World 
Cup soccer and an increasing favorite of the mass-consumption younger crowd. 
Chalk up another one for globalization.

Bob Hall
Napoleon, OH





Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 10:22:18 -0500
From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62 at hotmail.com>
Subject: yeast strain equivalency chart

Gregory Ramirez asks for yeast equivalency charts.

White Labs had a give away poster with the special issue of Zymurgy a month 
of so ago. Maybe a homebrew shop still has some copies. I know that Wyeast 
posts their yeast profiles on the web. I use Al Korzonas's book "Homebrewing 
Vol I". It has extencive profiles from several yeast producers in addition 
to the ones you're interested in. Best $15.00 I ever spent on homebrew 
equipment. (No afilliation yada yada...)

Joe (217.6,208.8) apparent rennerian
Shelbyville, In



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 10:31:26 -0500
From: "Peter Pellemans" <peter at pellemans.net>
Subject: Big Bend Brew Off 2002 competition accepting entries now


The Tallahassee, Florida based North Florida Brewers League (www.nfbl.org)
is organizing the 7th Annual Big Bend Brew Off competition on 1/19/02. This
is the first general homebrew competition of the year in the country and a
great opportunity to test-drive your homebrews. All BJCP styles (beers,
meads and ciders) are accepted.

The time to send in your entries is NOW! Entries will be accepted until
1/12/02.

Go to the website to read the rules and download entry forms:
http://nfbl.org/BBBO2002/default.htm

So dust off those bottles and send them in! Now!

Thanks,

Peter Pellemans
Competition Organizer
(850)425-1048
peter at nfbl.org
www.nfbl.org

PS
Any volunteers for judging, please contact me. We will also take the BJCP
exam the next day, 1/20/02.



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 15:08:27 -0500
From: "John Pendergast" <johnfpen at earthlink.net>
Subject: Stability Testing Wort

Somebody made the following statement yesterday

>I just moved to a place with well water, so I've got two stability tests
>underway.   One like above, will tell me about last evening's brewing
>sanitation methods.  The other is adds tap water to cool unpitched wort.
>This should help me understand the wort-loving bugs that live in my water
>supply.  I highly recommend stability tests - but do let them go until you
>see infections then sniff and maybe taste the product.    It's a great way
>to understand the sources of your "house flavor".

DO NOT under any circumsataces taste any unfermented wort product that has
been left unrefrigerated for ant peroid of time!  This is a great way to get
food poisoning and die.  There are no known pathogens that can live in beer
so the fermented product is safe without refrigeration, but without the
yeast bacteria that can kill you can develop in the wort

John Pendergast
Suffolk, VA
johnfpen at hotmail.com



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 15:20:26 -0500
From: "Ralph Davis" <rdavis77 at erols.com>
Subject: Infected Secondary?

Hi folks, I recently brewed a high gravity stout and everything went
normally through the primary fermentation then after a week I racked it into
the Secondary, a carboy with airlock.  Seeing about an inch of sediment in
the 2ndary  after about a week there, I racked it again into another
carefully sanitized carboy--just wanting it to be as clear as possible.  I
also added additional dry yeast at this time...to make sure everything
possible was fermented.  Now after a week in this 2nd 2ndary, staying at a
consistent 73 degrees or so, there is a very white filmish stuff with
bubbles...it doesn't look like your normal tan yeast bubbles.  It creeps up
on the inside surface of the carboy about an inch on the edges.  I added
some more dry yeast with the hope of driving it away...  I've never seen a
2ndary with this before--but being at the top of the stairs it has been
pretty warm up to 75 or even 78 F.  Now that I put the yeast in it does
smell very yeasty, but not a very nice yeast smell.  I've thought about
racking it again--being careful to leave the layer with the white foamy
film.  Before I do though, any suggestions?  Tests? Is it salvageable?

I've spent a good chunk of change on this batch and I hate to throw it
out.... Please, HELP!


Ralph W. Davis
Leesburg, Virginia
[395.2, 121.8] Apparent Rennerian

"Beer is living proof that God loves us
and wants us to be happy."   -Benjamin Franklin




Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 15:32:40 -0500
From: "S G" <swg2 at hotmail.com>
Subject: Fulda, Germany

I will be travelling to Fulda, Germany outside of Frankfurt in a few weeks 
for about 8 days and was wondering if anyone familiar with the area could 
point me in the right direction to some good pubs / fun places.  I would 
also enjoy hearing styles of beer I should try out and what to expect from 
them as far as taste goes.  (I enjoy all types, but have limited experience 
with German beers.)

Spence Graham
West Virginia



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 13:56:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Chad Clancy <chadclancy at yahoo.com>
Subject: Yeast equivalency 

Greg Ramiriez wrote:
> 
> I wondered if anyone here knew of a document of some
> kind which shows the 
> strains of yeast use by White Labs and Wyeast so if
> one brand isnt available 
> then the same yeast of the other brand may be
> chosen.
> 
> Gregory
> Salinas Ca.
> 
I have been putting together such a resource that can
be found on my website at:

http://www.geocities.com/chadclancy/BrewSheet/YeastSource.htm

It is not entirely complete and there may be some
strains that are not exact duplicates but it should be
at least close for the strains listed.  If anyone has
any additional information that would help me fill in
the blanks, I would appreciate it if you send me your
info.

I'm working on adding some strains from YCKC and I'll
try to update the table with those soon.

Chad Clancy
Mechanicsburg, PA

=====
Chad M. Clancy                  o---o---o---o
Modjeski and Masters, Inc.     / \ / \ / \ / \
Mechanicsburg, PA        -----o---o---o---o---o-----
                              |               |
                               \~~~~~~~~~~~~~/



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 18:10:00 -0500
From: "Larry Maxwell" <larrymax at bellsouth.net>
Subject: cutting drain hole in keg

What's the best way to cut a 3/4 inch drain hole in a SS
keg using hand tools?  (I don't want to have to find
someone with a plasma cutter.)  The difficulty, as I see it,
is that the largest drill bit that fits the chuck of a normal
cordless drill is about 1/2".  Should I drill the 1/2" hole
and then widen it to 3/4 using a Dremel tool?  I have
heard that if stainless overheats it toughens and
becomes more difficult than ever to cut. Any tips for
avoiding frustration and/or injury would be appreciated.

Larry
Atlanta, GA





Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 17:20:18 -0700
From: "John Gubbins" <n0vse at idcomm.com>
Subject: Barley Wine Fermentation

Howdy Beer Folk:

On December 23 of the past year I brewed up a Barley Wine.  The recipe
is below:

 9 lb Marris Otter pale malt
1 lb Munich Malt
1 lb German Wheat Malt
1 lb German light crystal
7 lb LME

2 Oz Chinook AA 16 boil
1 Oz Hallertour AA 4.8 10 min
1 Oz homegrown Cascade 5 min

White Labs Super High Gravity ale yeast, Platinum series.

The mash was performed in a false bottom bucket and went very well.
Both the iodine and my tongue agreed it was done.  The LME was added
as the sparge continued.  By the time the sparge was done I had a good
boil going.  Everything went well.  The OG was 1.101.  I cooled the
wort and added the starter with the yeast that I'd made the night
before.  The starter was good and most of the yeast had settled.  So
in other words, the brewing process was a success.

The stuff took off within a few hours.  It vigorously fermented and
was at high kreusen within 24.  It stayed that way longer than most
beers but I guess this is to be expected.  Today is the 5th of
January.  The stuff is still in the primary and is very cloudy.  The
trub has been at the bottom now for a couple of weeks but there are
still globs of stuff running around in there and the cloudy look
suggests active fermentation. It bubbles every few seconds.  The brew
is at about 66 degrees.

My question is this:  Normally I leave a brew in the primary until it
pretty much clears.  Then I rack to the secondary.  Knowing that
Barley Wine takes a while I'm willing to wait for the primary to
clear.  Is this necessary?  Should I rack to the secondary to avoid
off flavors?  Any opinions are welcome.

John Gubbins
Littleton Colorado (Apparent Rennerian 1117,267.5)



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 19:26:09 -0500
From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com>
Subject: Re: Yeast Strain equivalency chart?

> I wondered if anyone here knew of a document of some kind which
> shows the strains of yeast use by White Labs and Wyeast so if one
> brand isnt available then the same yeast of the other brand may be
> chosen.
>
> Gregory

not exactly what you'd like, but try
www.best.com/~smurman/zymurgy/yeast.html

skotrat has also taken this data and really put together a complete
doc.  don't have the url, but you can reach it through the hbd.org
site i believe.

 -SM-
Redwood City, CA


Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 19:07:45 +0000
From: Joseph Kish <jjkish at att.net>
Subject: Re: Barley Cerial Mash Questions

Why am I using flaked barley to enhance the
head, when plain unmalted barley will simply
geletinize at mashing temperatures?

 Most brewing supplies dealers do not handle
unmalted barley!   They look at you like you
have two heads when you ask for unmalted
barley. Maybe I should look into animal feed
stores, or "pearled barley" in supermarkets?
      Joe Kish



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 22:02:54 -0500
From: Bob Sheck <bsheck at skantech.net>
Subject: Thermometer Calibration

As part of the new-year's labor imposed by SWMBO, I
was forced to straighten up my brewing area- Now how
am I going to find anything- Ooops- I found a long-lost
glass thermometer! 

Now, the only problem, is that there is about a 1/2 
inch of red stuff jammed up at the top end, and the
main red stuff at the other end is not reading too 
accurate.

Anyone got any advice? 

I remember that a long time ago there was discussion here
about how to solve this problem, but I am unsure how to
engage the search engines to find this gem of wisdom.


Bob Sheck // DEA - Down East Alers - Greenville, NC
bsheck at skantech.net // [140.6, 583.2] Apparent Rennerian



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 22:36:33 -0500
From: Bob Sheck <bsheck at skantech.net>
Subject: Re: Ways to cool down the closet?

Chad Gould Wondered about ways to keep 
the ferment cool-

If your house has central air, you can build a 
box out of the blue foam insulation large enough
to enclose your carboy or fermenter, then place them
over a cold air vent, you can maintain 
somewhere below 65F

Push comes to shove, get a big plastic tub and 
put your fermenter in, then add water and ice.
You may wrap your fermenter in a towel to suck up
the water, add a fan to help evaporate the water.
This will also help cool the fermentor.

Or just break down and buy a used refrigerator!

Bob Sheck // DEA - Down East Alers - Greenville, NC
bsheck at skantech.net // [140.6, 583.2] Apparent Rennerian



Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 00:33:55 -0500
From: "David G. Humes" <dhumes001 at home.com>
Subject: How long to dry hop

What's the current opinion on how long to dry hop?  Mark Garetz "Using Hops"
books suggests 10-14 days at 55F as the "traditional" cask conditioning
method.  I've found that 7 days is way too short to get any significant
aroma and that it doesn't start to really kick in until around 3-4 weeks.
Also, at that point I notice the body and head retention seem to improve as
well.  I dry hop at 53F with whole hops in a nylon bag tethered from a
weight in the bottom of the keg.  I made an APA last year that was dry
hopped for 2 months with Cascade that won it's category at a large
competition.  So, dry hopping for that long can't be too bad.  But I wonder
if there is a point where it's too long?  Do grassy notes start to assert
themselves later in the process?  Is there any known detriment to just
leaving the hops in the beer until it is all served?  That's what I do, and
so far have not noticed any problems.

Thanks.

- --Dave



Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:09:22 -0500
From: "R. Schaffer-Neitz" <rschaff at ptd.net>
Subject: RE: Yeast Strain Equivalency Chart

Gregory Ramirez asked about yeast equivalency charts.

There may be a non-vendor related chart out there, but the Beer, Beer & More
Beer catalog and website (no affiliation, yada, yada) list the Wyeast
equivalent, when there is one, for all the White Labs yeasts they sell.
That would get you half way there.  Now all you need to do is find a vendor
that does it the other way around and you'll be set. :)

Bob Schaffer-Neitz
Northumberland, PA
375, 102.6 (apparent)



Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 10:15:05 -0800 (PST)
From: G C <gsd4lyf at yahoo.com>
Subject: Chlorinated TSP: Good or Bad   

Hi all,

I'm preparing to brew my first batch, but first I need
to clean the two glass carboys that I inherited from
someone. They have some brewing deposits inside them.
My local homebrew shop sells and recommends
chlorinated TSP as a cleaner/sanitizer. However, if
there is an alternative that works equally well at
removing brewing deposits that is more environmentally
friendly, I'd like to hear about it. The homebrew shop
also recommnded using the chlorinated TSP in cold
water, but I've read in a couple different places to
use hot water. I'm hoping that this group's collective
knowledge can direct me to the proper choice. 

Thanks,

Guy
Los Gatos, CA 



Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 15:29:32 -0500
From: kingkelly at juno.com
Subject: Florida Panhandle Beers & Brewing

Thanks to all who gave brewery recommendations for our trip to the
Florida panhandle over the holidays.  We were able to check out 3 of the
brewpubs in the area and, more importantly, were invited to participate
in a homebrew session with the Home Brewers Underground (HBU) in the Ft.
Walton Beach area.

First, about the brewpubs:
1 - Panama City Brewery & Cafe in Panama City Beach.  This is a great
brewpub, with 6 brews on tap (Porter, ESB, Light Ale, Golden Ale, Amber
Ale, Nut Brown Ale)  We tried them all except the Light, and they were
all excellent and to style, with the ESB being a little light in body.
And at $1 per pint during happy hour, we were happy to be there!  The
jazz band was good as well.
2 - McGuire's Irish Pub & Brewery in Destin.  This is a more mainstream
restaurant/brewery with a sister location in Pensacola.  It isn't a cheap
place to eat, but the food portions are huge.  We tried the Irish Stout,
the Porter, the Irish Red Ale, and my favorite, a Christmas Ale.  Great
beers, but the bartender is a bit full of himself.
3 - Santa Rosa Bay Brewery in Ft. Walton Beach.  This brewpub has that
local hangout feel, where everyone at the bar knows everyone else, even
if they are all drinking Budweiser.  There were only 2 beers on tap, a
Cream Ale and a Lager.  It seems that a local company had had their
Christmas party there and had consumed all of the other microbrews.  A
good bartender and some nice wines, but the brewer needs more support
from management to crank out more volume and choices.

After Mike Nelson (President of the HBU) met us at brewery #3 for a few
beverages, we had a great time comparing homebrew club notes and telling
stories.  He invited us to the first all-grain brew session of one of
their members (Hi, Clark.)  About 15 people were in attendance, plus 4
kids and a dog.  Great food and homebrew, right on the sound.  A
wonderful sunset as well.  Thanks to the HBU and their hospitality to a
couple of strangers.  They really made us feel welcome.  Homebrewers are
great people, IMO.

Esther King
President
Star City Brewers Guild
Roanoke, VA


Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 17:53:29 -0500
From: Bob Sheck <bsheck at skantech.net>
Subject: RE: Rusty Freezers

Randy Ricchi stated: 
>". I would recommend this stuff over 
>naval jelly because it is easier to work 
>with. I forget what it's called. . ."

IThe active ingredient in Naval Jelly is- Our old
friend, Phosphoric Acid!  If you happen to have access to 
this (food grade if you hang around pro-brewers) just
put it in a spray bottle and knock yourself out!

Remember, it IS acid, wear protective eye and flesh gear.


Bob Sheck // DEA - Down East Alers - Greenville, NC
bsheck at skantech.net // [140.6, 583.2] Apparent Rennerian



Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 23:10:49 -0600
From: "Eric Stiers" <ewstiers at chorus.net>
Subject: dry hopping question


Hi all-

I'm a somewhat newbie all-grain brewer, and Beer Experiment #2 is a nicely
hopped (at least on paper) IPA. The recipe called for dry-hopping in the
secondary to get a few more aromatics to go with the boiled bitters. I ended
up using pellet hops, and the bubbles coming out of the fermenter smelled
great - almost as good as a nice glass of our local New Glarus IPA. However,
when sampling the actual brew, I tasted only the bitter component of the
boiling hops and the aromatics were almost undetectable.

Looking at the brewing method, I realized that the dry hops all floated to
the top of the fermenter where they were then lifted on a layer of foam from
below by the final stages of fermentation. Could this have caused the
difference between the smell and taste, i.e. the bubbles of CO2 passed
through the hops layer and picked up the flavor, causing the blow-off to
smell good, while the beer was largely separated from the dry hops by the
foam and didn't pick up much of the flavor?

A second theory I had was that because the secondary was pretty full - well
into where the neck of the carboy started to narrow - the surface area in
which the dry hops and beer were in contact was too small to begin with, and
the foam lift described above just made the problem worse.

If either or these theories can be verified by others, does anyone have any
suggestions for a better dry hopping method than just throwing it into the
beer?

Thanks in advance,
Eric Stiers

I'm in Madison, WI; no idea where Jeff Renner is at this particular hour...

=============
ewstiers at chorus.net
http://userpages.chorus.net/ewstiers/



Return to table of contents

---