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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Subject: cutting drain hole in keg ("Larry Cooney")
  cutting drain hole in keg ("John Zeller")
  Re:cutting drain hole in keg ("Richardson, Martin")
  RE: Globalization (John Wilkinson)
  JSP Maltmill Gear Drive Option (PensingerJ)
  Czech and Pilsner yeasts (question) (leavitdg)
  thermometers (Randy Ricchi)
  Subject: yeast strain equivalency chart ("Rogers, Mike")
  Re: cutting drain hole in keg ("Rogers, Mike")
  hop tea (CMEBREW)
  Re: Barley Cereal Mash Questions (Jeff Renner)
  Importing Guiness from a Cruise trip ("Hill, Steve")
  re: drain hole in keg (Ed Jones)
  Re:Thermometer Calibration ("Pete Calinski")
   ("Kirk Fleming")
  Barley wine HELP ("Mauricio Wagner")
  Re:How long to dry hop ("Pete Calinski")
  Brew TV and Smoked Malt (Richard Foote)
  Re: Thermometer calibration (Mark Kempisty)
  Water quality Testing ("Frank J. Russo")
  re:Barley Wine Fermentation (susan woodall)
  re: Clear Bottles (and skunked beer) (susan woodall)
  Cutting drain holes in kegs ("Mike")
  Thermometer Calibration (Richard Foote)
  "Breakfast Blend" (Aleconner)
  Big Bend Brew-Off (John Larsen)


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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 00:38:19 -0500
From: "Larry Cooney" <lyvewire1 at hotmail.com>
Subject: Subject: cutting drain hole in keg

Larry Maxwell asks about cutting a drain hole in a keg. Any good hole saw
will cut it. Mark it where you want the hole and drill it first with a
smaller size bit than the pilot bit in the hole saw. Use oil as you are
drilling and this will keep you from dulling the bits. Take your time! I
used a variable speed drill and kept it slow.


Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 22:07:41 -0800
From: "John Zeller" <jwz_sd at hotmail.com>
Subject: cutting drain hole in keg

Larry Maxwell asks,

"What's the best way to cut a 3/4 inch drain hole in a SS
keg using hand tools?" (snip)

The easy and accurate way is with a hole saw.  The 3/4 inch hole saws are 
inexpensive and easy to use with nearly any hand held drill.
A variable speed drill is preferred as you want to go slowly so as not to 
overheat the cutting blade.  Use some light oil to cool and lubricate the 
blade as you go.  WD-40 will work OK for this.  Get a hole saw that is rated 
for both wood and metal and avoid the very cheap ones that may not last 
through the job.  The hole saw will give you a nice clean hole which will 
only require very minor smoothing with some emery paper if anything at all.







Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:48:24 +1100 
From: "Richardson, Martin" <RicharMP at Pasminco.com.au>
Subject: Re:cutting drain hole in keg

Larry Maxwell asks,
>>>

                           What's the best way to cut a 3/4 inch drain hole
in a SS
keg using hand tools? <<<
	I was fortunate enough for my brother to obtain a hole saw that I
could borrow. I am not very knowledgeable about tools, but as far as I know
it was made from High Speed Steel and is shaped like a tube with a standard
drill bit through the centre. This is used in conjunction with a standard
power drill on low RPM's.
	I would not have a clue where to obtain one or how expensive they
would be. I can tell you this though, when used with a cutting fluid it cut
through my three stainless kegs like butter, and in no time at all I had
perfect diameter holes. Maybe a good idea for a club to invest in?
                              Cheers, Martin :-)



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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 03:25:04 -0600
From: John Wilkinson <jwilkinson at goquest.com>
Subject: RE: Globalization

Bob Hall wrote:

>On a trip to Belfast a few years ago I was surprised to see the "Ice Cold 
>Guinness" banners hanging from pub walls. According to the bartenders, it 
>was the Guinness reaction to "Ice Cold Bud," an official sponsor of World 
>Cup soccer and an increasing favorite of the mass-consumption younger crowd. 
>Chalk up another one for globalization.

Whoa! Globalization!  You mean people could have what they want instead
of what we think they should want?  Can't have that, can we?

John Wilkinson


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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 05:45:30 -0500 
From: PensingerJ at NCTAMSLANT.NAVY.MIL
Subject: JSP Maltmill Gear Drive Option

I have been trying to email JSP Productions and keep getting a returned
email. Permenant Fatal Errors.  Does anyone have a good email address.  I
have been using arf at mc.net.  

Also on the same note.  Has anyone retrofited a Maltmill with the gear drive
option and if so how do you like it?

Mike Pensinger
beermkr at bellatlantic.net

ITC(SW) Mike Pensinger
NCTAMSLANT Det Hampton Roads
Commitment Section CWO
757-836-5836



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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 08:37:18 -0500 (EST)
From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu
Subject: Czech and Pilsner yeasts (question)

I am planning an all-grain CAP sort of brew, and wonder: Has anyone used 
Czech Budejovice (wlp802) along with Pilsner-Lager Yeast (wlp800)?  The latter
vial is a year old so I don't want to pitch it alone...

 ..Darrell
[545.7,72.3] apparent Rennerian


Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 08:10:32 -0500
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us>
Subject: thermometers

Bob Sheck asked about re-joining the red column in his thermometer with
a little bit of the red stuff up at the top.

I recently fixed this same problem myself. Boiling water won't drive the

red column up high enough to connect with the blob at the end. Just put
a little flame at the bottom of the thermometer until the columns
connect. Takes a few seconds and works like a charm. I'd pull the flame
away as soon as possible, though.





Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:27:23 -0500 
From: "Rogers, Mike" <mike.rogers at eds.com>
Subject: Subject: yeast strain equivalency chart

Gregory Ramirez asks for yeast equivalency charts.
========
Go to the source for the most current information.  Both Whyte Labs and
Wyeast have solid web sites.  It's easy to compare the strains by viewing
the posted information.  You can print if desired...

http://www.whitelabs.com/wl/search.asp

http://www.wyeastlab.com/education/edyechoo.htm

Mike Rogers
Cass River Homebrewers - Mid Michigan
www.geocities.com\cassriverhomebrewers\beer
mailto:mike01_rogers at yahoo.com




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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:35:58 -0500 
From: "Rogers, Mike" <mike.rogers at eds.com>
Subject: Re: cutting drain hole in keg

"Larry Maxwell" <larrymax at bellsouth.net> wrote:

What's the best way to cut a 3/4 inch drain hole in a SS keg using hand
tools?  (I don't want to have to find
someone with a plasma cutter.)
=============

The best way is with a 3/4 bi-metal hole saw blade connected to your
favorite drill.  The hole saw provides for a small pilot bit which keeps the
drill stable and allows you to have a very clean hole.  You can pick one up
for about $6 at any home improvement store.  I have cut several sanke kegs
with the same bit.  Takes about 2 minutes...   

Mike Rogers
Cass River Homebrewers - Mid Michigan
www.geocities.com\cassriverhomebrewers\beer
mailto:mike01_rogers at yahoo.com



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:52:54 EST
From: CMEBREW at aol.com
Subject: hop tea

I am considering boiling a qt. of water, cooling it to 160, pouring this over 
3 or 4 oz of leaf hops, and steeping for 15". Then strain it thru a coffee 
filter into  the bottom of a corny keg before filling with fresh brew.

Will this add much hop flavor/aroma? I have hallertau tradition hops. I hope 
to hear from those who do this or have tried it.  Charlie Preston in 
Mansfield, Ohio


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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:10:10 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Barley Cereal Mash Questions

Joseph Kish <jjkish at att.net> asks:

>Why am I using flaked barley to enhance the
>head, when plain unmalted barley will simply
>geletinize at mashing temperatures?

Good question!  Why? ;-)

It's probably easier than grinding unmalted barley and conversion may 
be quicker since it is pre-gelatinized, but I wouldn't hesitate to 
use whole or pearled barley.

>  Most brewing supplies dealers do not handle
>unmalted barley!   They look at you like you
>have two heads when you ask for unmalted
>barley. Maybe I should look into animal feed
>stores, or "pearled barley" in supermarkets?

Animal feed stores will be selling some pretty dirty stuff.  You 
don't want to know how it's been abused - rodent turds and pee, etc.

Health food stores and food co-ops are good places to get whole 
barley or barley flour (mix it into the crushed malt to prevent 
lumping - small amounts shouldn't cause stuck mashes), and, as you 
suggest, pearled barley is easily available.

Jeff
- -- 
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943


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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:47:22 -0500
From: "Hill, Steve" <Steve.Hill at apfs.com>
Subject: Importing Guiness from a Cruise trip

Hello all!  
 
Has anyone been on a cruise to St. Maarton, St.  Thomas and Princess Cays?
 
My wife and are going for our Anniversary this  week.
 
I NEED GOOD BEER!  Any  suggestions?
 
Has anyone purchased Guinness from the Islands and  brought it back home?
The Islands 8% is way better (in my humble  opinion) than the stuff they
produce in Canada and ship to good old  Pennsylvania.  How hard was it to
bring back?
 
If anyone knows prices, or has suggestions please  email and let me know as
soon as you can.
 
Thanks a ton!
Steve Hill
Email - needabeer at home.com


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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:12:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Ed Jones <ejones at ironacres.com>
Subject: re: drain hole in keg

The simplest thing for me is to use a step-drill to make the hole. I started
with a pilot hole (1/4" I think) and drilled with the step drill after that.
Very easy and precise.

- --
Ed Jones - Columbus, Ohio U.S.A - [163.8, 159.4] [B, D] Rennerian

"When I was sufficiently recovered to be permitted to take nourishment,
I felt the most extraordinary desire for a glass of Guinness...I am
confident that it contributed more than anything else to my recovery."
  - written by a wounded officer after Battle of Waterloo, 1815



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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:57:48 -0500
From: "Pete Calinski" <pcalinski at iname.com>
Subject: Re:Thermometer Calibration

>Now, the only problem, is that there is about a 1/2
>inch of red stuff jammed up at the top end, and the
>main red stuff at the other end is not reading too
>accurate.



I have found that if you heat up the thermometer until the "main stuff"
reaches the  "red stuff jammed at the top end", the two will merge and all
pull back together when it cools.  If the "red stuff jammed at the top end"
is really at the very end, I would be careful and take the heat away as soon
as the two columns meet otherwise it may pop.

Worked for me, hope it does for you.

Pete Calinski
East Amherst NY
Near Buffalo NY


***********************************************************
*My goal:
*      Go through life and never drink the same beer twice.
*     (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.)
***********************************************************



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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 08:15:38 -0800
From: "Kirk Fleming" <kirkfleming at earthlink.net>
Subject: 

In 3832 "Larry Maxwell" <larrymax at bellsouth.net> asks about cutting a 3/4"
hole in a stainless keg. I cut all the tops out of my kegs by, get this,
drilling 3/32" holes along the scribed line, then punching out the scrap.
This is a bit tedious, but for a 3/4" hole it shouldn't take more than 15
min or so.

I recommend using a new, so-called 'cobalt' or titanium nitride drill bit.
Obviously, drill your inside the desired line so they are tangent thereto,
and drill them as close as possible. This leaves the least amount of 'web'
between the holes so removal of the scrap piece is easier. I didn't say this
is the 'best' way--primitive, but effective. Naturally, you then have to use
a fine, round file (or hand grinder) to finish out the hole.

Kirk Fleming
FRSL, FRSE



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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:22:26 -0300
From: "Mauricio Wagner" <mwagner at alean.com.ar>
Subject: Barley wine HELP

I'm living in Argentina (very known this days in the news, we had 5
presidents in 3 weeks.....).

OK, lets go to our subject...
I'm trying to brew my first ALL GRAIN - Barley wine.
I would like some help in the following topics:

1) We don't have access to the British Pale malt. We use as base malt the
one used by the Big Boys here, PILSEN MALT.
Do I have to take in account something with this change?
2) Which liquid YEAST you suggest me to use? and other alternatives?

Also what do you think for this use about the dry Yeast from SAFALE or
Nottingham?

3) I'll try to use the following malt Bill.

#9      Pilsen Malt
#0.5   Crystal 70 Lobibond
#0.5   Munich

I have also Wheat malt. Do you suggest to add it? Let say to add #0.5 to the
malt bill.?

Do you suggest to add or change anything? I want to get a 10% alcohol in
Volume.
(approx.)

4) Do I try to be during mashing below 65 Centigrades or higher (more
fermentables or not)?
I use single step infusion.

5) water to grain relation for mashing? 2 liter /Kg is Ok?

Thank you in advance,

Mauricio Wagner
Buenos Aires - Argentina









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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:30:10 -0500
From: "Pete Calinski" <pcalinski at iname.com>
Subject: Re:How long to dry hop

There may be a temperature factor to consider.  I normally dry hop with the
carboy around 65F to 68F.  I seem to sense the grassy flavor after 7 to 10
days.  It could be just my imagination though.  I haven't done any blind
tastings etc.

Also, maybe there is a pressure factor.  I bottle condition but dry hopping
in a keg under pressure might give a different effect.  I can't say since I
don't do it.

Like the Pope and birth control, you donna playa the game, you donna maka da
rules.


Pete Calinski
East Amherst NY
Near Buffalo NY


***********************************************************
*My goal:
*      Go through life and never drink the same beer twice.
*     (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.)
***********************************************************





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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 10:38:29 -0500
From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com>
Subject: Brew TV and Smoked Malt

Hi,

I thought this was interesting.  Check it out at: 

http://www.extranettv.com/index.html

Page down to "Brewin' With Herb".  Has anyone ever heard of this or viewed
the program?  


Smoked Malt:

What is the flavor threshold for smoked malt in a five gallon batch?  What
is the minimum needed to reach a decernible level?  I know there are lots
of variables.  To reduce some of these, lets assume fresh, commercial rauch
malt (Weyermann).  Just get me within spittin' distance.  Thanks.


Rick Foote
Whistle Pig Brewing
Murrayville, GA



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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 11:32:04 -0500
From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com>
Subject: Re: Thermometer calibration

Bob Sheck asks about getting separated thermometer fluids back together.

I had this happen many years ago on a thermometer I really didn't care
about.  I heated it up until the the red line was all the way to the top
and then let it cool slowly.  This thermometer topped out at 150 so I
think I just used a light bulb.  You may need to use a flame.  I never
officially tested the calibration after that but the thermometer seemed
accurate.

- --
Take care,
Mark





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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:04:27 -0500
From: "Frank J. Russo" <fjrusso at coastalnet.com>
Subject: Water quality Testing

Can anyone tell me where I can get my water tested for the ions listed below
that are a concern / interest to us Home Brewers?

Seven primary ions that have a substantial influence on the beer making
process
1.	Calcium (Ca+2)
2.	Sulfate (SO4-2)
3.	Magnesium (Mg+2)
4.	Chloride (C1-1)
5.	Sodium (Na+1)
6.	Carbonate (CO3-2)
7.	Bicarbonate 2 (HCO3-1)

Secondary Ions
1.	Iron (Fe+1) or (Fe+2)
2.	Cooper (Cu+1)
3.	Silicate (SiO3-2)
4.	Zinc (ZN+2)
5.	Manganese (Mn+2


Frank Russo
ATF Home Brew Club
New Bern NC
"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for the good men to do
nothing."



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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 09:12:49 -0800
From: susan woodall <woodsusa at moscow.com>
Subject: re:Barley Wine Fermentation

It sounds like you have the problem is chill haze.  You could raise the
fermentation temp a little and that will go away. Some chill haze is
normal and will settle over time.  As long as you age Barley Wine
(months) that shouldn't be a problem and it will settle out in the
bottle.  Try raising your temp when you transfer or bottle and you will
leave those proteins on the bottom.
Dave Woodall
John Wrote:
The stuff took off within a few hours.  It vigorously fermented and
was at high kreusen within 24.  It stayed that way longer than most
beers but I guess this is to be expected.  Today is the 5th of
January.  The stuff is still in the primary and is very cloudy.  The
trub has been at the bottom now for a couple of weeks but there are
still globs of stuff running around in there and the cloudy look
suggests active fermentation. It bubbles every few seconds.  The brew
is at about 66 degrees.

My question is this:  Normally I leave a brew in the primary until it
pretty much clears.  Then I rack to the secondary.  Knowing that
Barley Wine takes a while I'm willing to wait for the primary to
clear.  Is this necessary?  Should I rack to the secondary to avoid
off flavors?  Any opinions are welcome.





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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 09:17:58 -0800
From: susan woodall <woodsusa at moscow.com>
Subject: re: Clear Bottles (and skunked beer)

no, incandescent bulbs do not affect beer in the same manner as sunlight
but flourescent light would skunk  you beer!

Rama Roberts wrote:
BTW- speaking of clear bottles (and skunked beer) this month's Brew Your

Own magazine has an article on cold weather brewing. One of their
suggestions was to build a warming box, essentially a light bulb and
your
carboy in a closed space. I admit I don't know if incandescent bulbs
produce the same light spectrum in sunlight responsible for reacting
with
isomerized hops, but this just seems a bit dangerous to me.
Anyone know for sure?

 - --



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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:49:46 -0800
From: "Mike" <brewski at inet99.net>
Subject: Cutting drain holes in kegs

I use a Greenlee knock-out or chassie punch. The is what folks like =
electricians and electronic technicians us to punch holes in metal =
cabnets. This is going to cost a few bucks but do an excellant job. And =
the SS cuts like butter.

My second choice would be a hole saw. Not the cheapie grade sold at =
K-Mart and Wal-Mart, the contractor grade sold at places like Lowes.

The chassie punch makes a relative nice clean hold and does it very =
easily. Sawing a hole through SS is rough and leaves a hole with lots of =
sharp edges but once the fitting is put through the hole who cares.

Mike



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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 13:28:32 -0500
From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com>
Subject: Thermometer Calibration

Bob Sheck writes:

>Now, the only problem, is that there is about a 1/2 
>inch of red stuff jammed up at the top end, and the
>main red stuff at the other end is not reading too 
>accurate.

>Anyone got any advice? 

I too have a thermometer that has and continues to have this problem.  In
fact, it happened only yesterday--twice!  It does seem to throw the
accuracy way off, causing it to read lower than it should by 6 or so
degrees.  The method I've used, with mixed results, (more on that soon) is
to hold the thermometer bulb over a gas flame, as from a butane/propane
torch or gas burner on low flame.  Watch carefully as the red stuff creeps
(hopefully) toward the little bulb in the top end.  Don't let it go like a
freight train (see earlier cautionary note) or it will keep right on going
out the top end.  Doh!  I have done this.  

Just as soon as the top bulb is filled with the errant red stuff (alcohol,
I hope), immediately immerse the bulb into cool water.  This will prevent
the run-away freight train phenomenon and suck the red stuff back down into
the bulb.

Alternatively, you may choose to buy a new thermometer.  

Hope this helps.  


Rick Foote
Whistle Pig Brewing
Murrayville, GA







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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 18:02:26 EST
From: Aleconner at aol.com
Subject: "Breakfast Blend"

Chris Carson brings up an interesting topic about breakfast cereals used in 
beer making.

Back in '96 or so, the Chicago Beer Society hosted a homebrew competition 
wherein brewers were required to use an off-the-shelf breakfast cereal as 
part of the grain bill.  As chance would have it, long time HBD'er Al 
Korzonas won the competition for his entry -which I believe was some 7-grain 
cereal.  I'm sure he'd be happy to share the finer details.

P.S. Michael Jackson was in town at the time and actually participated as a 
judge at this competition.

Marty Nachel
Bustanut Brewery


<<Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 10:42:02 -0600
From: Chris Carson <chris at webesota.com>
Subject: Real cereal adjuncts!!!

Every so often, I buy a box of Post Grape-Nuts cereal for my breakfast meal 
(or for late-night snacking).

Last night, I was reading the side of the cereal box and I read the 
ingredient list:

    malted barley flour
    wheat flour
    salt
    yeast

Well, needless to say I started to laugh...

Does ANYONE think that you could add this to a brew as an adjunct??

My first thought would be that the you'd have to treat it like oatmeal, 
because they do get pretty soggy.  Would the salt render it unsuitable for 
brewing?

Sort of a different spin on the phrase "Breakfast Blend"?>>


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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 23:21:39 -0500
From: John Larsen <jlarsen at nxus.com>
Subject: Big Bend Brew-Off 

This announcement was meant to go out a week ago, but I had a brain
problem and the posting attempt failed.  I know this is late for many of
you, but for those of you in the Southeast, there's still time if you
hustle.The Tallahassee-based North Florida Brewers League (www.nfbl.org)
is hosting the 7th Annual Big Bend Brew Off competition on 1/19/02. This

is the first general homebrew competition of the year in the country and
a great opportunity to test-drive your homebrews. All BJCP styles
(beers,meads and ciders) are accepted.

The time to send in your entries is now! Entries will be accepted until
1/12/02. That is only a few days.

Go to the website to read the rules and download entry forms:
www.nfbl.org

John Larsen
Judge Director, Big Bend Brew-Off 2002





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---