HOMEBREW Digest #3852 Wed 30 January 2002

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  Re: NPT Locknuts / RIMS control (Bill Tobler)
  When to adjunts to your beer (Bill Tobler)
  Re: Dunkel ("Braam Greyling")
  frozen liquid ale yeast? ("Gregor Zellmann")
  Hot break redissolves? (Dan Temple)
  Reasons to Boil ("Mark Tumarkin")
  more astringency problems (Andy Tina Madi Bailey)
  Recirculation ("Kirk Fleming")
  Re: skunky beer ("Chad Gould")
  long mash with declining temp profile ("Steven Parfitt")
  Re: Brewed and bottled....How long will it take? ("Chad Gould")
  RE:  Where to buy beer in Austin, TX? (Peter Torgrimson)
  To scoop or not ("Kim")
  Re: Brewed and bottled...how long will it take? (Kelly Grigg)
  Stuck fermentation (Brewmiker)
  Re: Rantings and Ravings (Jeff Renner)
  re: stuck ferment (Eric Miller)
  Mallory ("Bridges, Scott")
  Re: stuck ferment (Jeff Renner)
  Microwave Superheating (mohrstrom)
  priming/dunkel (Jim Busch)
  Munich Dunkles and toasted oats (Marc Sedam)
  Re: Dunkel (Jeff Renner)
  Monks Cry Fowl Over Risk to Beer Water (Bob Girolamo)
  Idaho clean (Calvin Perilloux)
  acetylene clarification (Rob Dewhirst)
  AFCHBC Call for Judges (Mark Alfaro)
  Pieces of my mind ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  One Step, OxyClean, etc. ("Eric R. Theiner")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 23:17:33 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <WCTobler at brazoria.net> Subject: Re: NPT Locknuts / RIMS control Drew, I'm in the process of rebuilding my electric kettle now. The threads on electric hot water elements are 1" NPS. (National Pipe Straight) Get a stainless Steel 1" coupling and have it tapped out to 1" NPS at a machine shop, or you can buy a coupling from Moving Brews already tapped. http://www.movingbrews.com/ If you don't tap it out, you have to use a wrench all the time, which is a royal PITA. My whole brewery is electric, with one element in the HLT and two in the Kettle. The new kettle will only have one 4500 watt with a controller I have yet to make. I tried the stove top type controller, and it did not work very good. The shortest off time was about 6 seconds, which is way too long. http://hbd.org/cdp/boilnew.htm This is the web site of C.D Pridchard, who built a pretty neat controller, which I am going to try and copy, as soon as I find someone handy with printed circuit boards and a soldering gun. I've got some pictures of the brewery, if your interested and a PDF drawing, that's mostly complete. Cheers Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 23:39:37 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <WCTobler at brazoria.net> Subject: When to adjunts to your beer I would, without a doubt, add the fly at the end of the boil with the finishing hops. This way he/she is fully sanitized and you get the full flavor/impact of the little guy/gal. Hmmm...This sounds like a "Fly By Night" operation to me...... Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:14:25 +0200 From: "Braam Greyling" <braam.greyling at azoteq.com> Subject: Re: Dunkel David Craft brewing CRAFT beer asked about a munich and dark malts... > I am formulating a Dunkel recipe, 5 lbs Munich, 5 lbs Pilsner, .25 lb > black, .5 lbs Chocolate, .5 lbs dextrine. Question, is this too much > dark malt. Should I eliminate the black? I see many recipes with > little or no dark malts, mostly all Munich. However the commerical > example I have seen have enough dark malts to make them quite dark. > Debittered black malt? Any thoughts? I would leave out the black malts. Rather have a 80% Munich , 20 % Pils ratio. Also why add dextrine ? A Dunkel is a darkish lager with medium body. With the correct mashing schedule you should get the body correct. The Reinheitsgebot does not allow dextrine to be added. (I try to stick with the Reinheitsgebot when I brew German beers). Rather go for a decoction mash. It really makes a difference for a Munich Dunkel. If you are worried that you beer is not dark enough, you can add a little Caramunich malt like Weyermann's Caramunich II. It will also help to get that melanoidins.... Just make sure you dont add too much Caramunich. Read the following link, it is a BJCP descripotion of a Munich Dunkel. http://www.mv.com/ipusers/slack/bjcp/styleguide13.html Regards Braam Greyling Snr. Design Engineer Azoteq(Pty)Ltd Tel +27 21 8630033 Fax +27 21 8631512 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:27:50 +0100 From: "Gregor Zellmann" <gregor at blinx.de> Subject: frozen liquid ale yeast? Fellow Brewers, I brew all grain beers since a couple of years and every source of information on brewing available to me (many, many books, HBD, r.c.b, you name it) states that it is impossible to deep freeze any beer yeast. The reason for this given is that ice crystals in the liquid medium destroy the yeast cells and kill them. There are some sources that say you can deep freeze yeast, if you store a few cells in glycerin, which will not freeze and therefore not damage the cells... Whatever. A friend who is not a brewer was helping and looking and tasting as I brewed an IPA a month ago. He loves baking bread though. He asked, if I could give him some beer yeast for his baking purposes. As I happened to rack an ESB from primary into secondary fermenter, I gave him the yeast dregs from the bottom of the primary. This was quite a lot of yeast, so he told me, he would use a part of it fresh the next day, but deep freeze the rest in portions for further sessions. I told him, not to freeze it, as the yeasts would not survive this. He didn't believe this, because, he did freeze baking yeast on many occasions without any problems. I said to him that this attempt will develop into a *stupid baking trick* (tm) and we parted. Now the funny thing is, that this guy, just yesterday passed by and brought me a loaf of wonderful bread, made with this deep frozen and re-thawed ale yeast without adding any baking yeast. He also reported, that the fermentation process, was as fast as with baking yeast. Obviously a big part of the yeast cells survived the freezing. What does that mean to us homebrewers? Can we do this too? It would certainly be convenient, to have a quarter gallon of active or at least partly active yeast slurry at hand for a high gravity ale or a lager. Or are those yeast cells damaged anyway for brewing purposes and just manage to ferment some dough for bread? cheers Gregor Zellmann Berlin, Germany Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 03:01:46 -0800 (PST) From: Dan Temple <danatemple at yahoo.com> Subject: Hot break redissolves? When I just got started brewing, I was told that I should run the boiled wort into another container where it should be chilled. The rationale was that the Hot Break sludge would then be left in the kettle. If I cooled in the kettle, the Hot Break would immediately redissolve! I get beautifully clear beer without using finings, and have never changed the habit. But: Looking at some systems e.g. Morebeer.com 's brewing sculptures, I note that the cooling is done in the kettle. So do I need to bother with the extra transfer? I am loath to offer a batch to find out - any tips? Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:10:40 -0500 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Reasons to Boil Henry asks: "Is there a special reason for bringing wort to a boil, besides the hop extraction, or will there be other, more sinister, effects of using microwaves to do this (I'm just tired of being exiled to the garage during boils because of the smell, then spending hours outdoors in cold weather)?" The following reasons for boiling are from the BJCP study guide. You can look on the web site for addtl info http://www.mv.com/ipusers/slack/bjcp/study98.html Boiling wort is normally required for the following reasons: Extracts, isomerizes and dissolves the hop alpha-acids Stops enzymatic activity Kills bacteria, fungi, and wild yeast Coagulates undesired proteins and polyphenols in the hot break Stabilizes salts for correct boil pH Evaporates undesirable harsh hop oils, sulfur compounds, ketones, and esters. Promotes the formation of melanoidins and caramelizes some of the wort sugars Evaporates water vapor, condensing the wort to the proper volume and gravity. A minimum of a one hour boil is usually recommended for making quality beer. When making all grain beer, a boil of 90 minutes is normal, with the bittering hops added for the last hour. One exception to boiling was historically used to brew the Berliner Weisse style. Here, the hops were added to the mash tun, and the wort is cooled after sparging and then fermented with a combination of lactobacillus from the malt and an ale yeast. hope this helps, Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 06:23:59 -0700 From: Andy Tina Madi Bailey <atmbailey at home.com> Subject: more astringency problems I have now brewed 20 gallons of astringent/funky bitter beer. ;-( The first batch (10 gallons) was over-sparged, I didn't think that the next 2( 5 gallon batches) batches were oversparged, but still the flavor remains. Between the 1st and subsequent batches I installed a carbon water filter inline under the sink which removes the noticable chlorine odor/taste. That didn't make a difference. I stopped the sparges of the last 2 batches when the gravity hit 1.010, WITHOUT compensating for temperature, meaning the real gravity should have been much higher since the wort was warm/hot. I am very frustrated!! Could it be the sparge water ph? In the town that I live in (Rapid City, SD), there is no way to get a complete water analysis. Even the municipal water supply doesn't do any kind of mineral analysis, they only care about the stuff that can kill you. Not knowing my calcium content, would it hurt anything to add gypsum to the sparge water in an attempt to lower the ph? If so, what would be a safe, yet effective amount? If its not likely the water, what else, other than oversparging could be the cause? The grain I was using was from a 50# bag of Minnesota Maltings 2row that I bought from a local microbrewery. That is now gone, and I am switching to Pauls Pale ale malt. Could my original grain not have been the best and cause the problem? Does the brand of grain dictate how much you can safely sparge? Do most people get enough wort (6-7 gallons from a roughly 10 # grain bill) for a 5 gallon batch, or do you prematurely stop the sparge and water down the wort prior to boiling? I realise that I have posed numerous questions in my quest to get this hammered out, but I need help. My wife is threatening to make me go back to extract so I quit wasting money on ruined beer. Pleas help! Andy Bailey Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 06:44:30 -0800 From: "Kirk Fleming" <kirkfleming at earthlink.net> Subject: Recirculation In 3851 "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> asks about recirculating. First, I hope that manifold is submerged during recirc. I would recommend against letting the sweet wort sprinkle down onto the top of the mash, if that's what's going on. I used a manifold built from 1/2 copper tubing--open at the ends (H-shaped in plan view), so clogging is impossible. As for the pump clogging--I found that occassionally I'd get better results by not connecting the pump initiall--just let the wort drain thru the tubing into a container, recirculating by hand a few times to set the bed. Then plub the tubing into the pump and fire it up. I used fairly large pumps (7/16" I/O), so it wasn't really a problem--mostly cosmetic. Kirk Fleming FRSE, FRSL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:55:50 -0500 From: "Chad Gould" <cgould11 at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Re: skunky beer > "Mechanism for Formation of the Lightstruck Flavor in Beer > Revealed by Time-Resolved Electron Paramagnetic Resonance", > Colin S. Burns, Arne Heyerick, Denis De Keukeleire,and > Malcolm D. E. Forbes, Chemistry-A European Journal. URL to the abstract: http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/cgi-bin/abstract/85514669/START You can also get full access to the article here: http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/cgi-bin/issuetoc?ID=85514666 if you are a member of Wiley Interscience. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:58:23 -0500 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: long mash with declining temp profile Which is a nice way fo saying start the mash in the morning an go to work, and don't sparge till late that evening. I mostly do Ales, and am on my second batch this way (Boddington clone from Zymurgy). I put the water on to heat while I S___, Shower, and Shave. Once I'm dressed, the strike water is ready, and I add it to the grain which was loaded in the tun the nite before. This gives me a rest starting at 153, and dropping 3F/Hr. By the time I'm home, it is down in the low 120F range. While making dinner, I boil water to add to boost to mashout, and sparge. These and the boil are done after dinner. Will this (the declining temperature profile) have any negative effects on the end product? Thanks. Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery, Johnson City, TN [422.7, 169.2] Rennerian http://www.thegimp.8k.com "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:01:03 -0500 From: "Chad Gould" <cgould11 at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Re: Brewed and bottled....How long will it take? > OK. I just bottled my first home brew! Its a Nut brown ale. Neat. (I have a brown ale bubbling away right now in fact.) > How long do I > need to let it sit in the bottles before its ready to drink? The minimum is typically 10-14 days for decent carbonation. They'll be good to drink then. But... So far, with the beers my friend and I have done so far, we've found that they'll still taste a tad "green" after two weeks. At about 4 weeks after bottling, the beers seem to taste best. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:19:05 -0600 From: Peter Torgrimson <petertorgrimson at prodigy.net> Subject: RE: Where to buy beer in Austin, TX? H. Dowda <hdowda at yahoo.com> asks where to buy beer in Austin. The best place I have found is Whip In, 1950 S Interstate 35 (actually on the southbound frontage road). It doesn't look like much (a convenience store) but they have a pretty good selection. It is not downtown, but not that far. You can take the freeway frontage road across the river and continue on the frontage road to the store. Closer to downtown is Whole Foods at 6th and Lamar, just west of downtown. I have not been to this particular store, but Whole Foods stores usually have a reasonable selection, but not as good as Whip In. Peter Torgrimson Austin, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:48:12 -0600 From: "Kim" <kim at nconnect.net> Subject: To scoop or not Several members have commented on whether or not to skim the scud when boiling. I favor that practice so it will not adversely affect the flavor. I guess I picked it up from my cooking experience. Auguste Escoffier, French master chef, would not only skim when making his stocks, but would also change pans after the foaming subsided. He was on one end of the flavor pole whereas I am not quite that fanatical. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:10:18 -0600 From: Kelly Grigg <kgrigg at diamonddata.com> Subject: Re: Brewed and bottled...how long will it take? Howdy. I usually can only make myself wait about 1.5 weeks before I try the first one but, I don't think you can go wrong with waiting 2 weeks. Kelly On Tue, Jan 29, 2002 at 12:16:52AM -0500, after pounding the keys randomly, Tray Bourgoyne came up with.... > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 19:57:56 -0600 > From: "Tray Bourgoyne" <tray at netdoor.com> > Subject: Brewed and bottled....How long will it take? > > OK. I just bottled my first home brew! Its a Nut brown ale. How long do I > need to let it sit in the bottles before its ready to drink? > > Thanks, > > Tray > - ------------------ No more Outlook.... Proudly using Mutt on Linux - ------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:11:04 EST From: Brewmiker at aol.com Subject: Stuck fermentation Greetings all, Al Beers writes From: Al Beers <beersal at yahoo.com> Subject: stuck ferment Hi all, Brewed a robust porter a week ago ( extract/steeped grain, WLP002 ). OG was 1.056, bubbling nicely after 6 hrs. Racked to secondary 6 days later, gravity of 1.020, tasted fantastic! Now it sits in the secondary flat, no activity. A wee bit of pressure in the airlock, but very little bubbling. Rousing the carboy doesn't help either. I also had a similar problem with a barley wine I'm currently building. OG was 1.110 and after racking into secondary, tasted great at 1.050. Then nothing for two weeks! I added a packet of dry champagne yeast and some yeast energizer at 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of beer. Three days later we have fermentation! A fellow who brewed the same recipe told me he reached 1.010 with the same technique, so I am optimistic. Also on another thread, I have been using one of the nylon strap, carboy slings mentioned in another posting, and like it alot. Cheap and easy to use (NAYYY). (Hope I followed protocols correctly, Pat :-)) Mike ,at the joint of Michigan's Thumb. Lapeer, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:17:48 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Rantings and Ravings "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> asks from Bellville, TX >What do you do to prevent excessive grains and >husks from going through the recirculation system? Do you start the >pump right after dough-in, or is there some secret I have not >uncovered? I suppose I could drain liquid from the mash tun until the >runnings are clear (like I used to), but surely there is a high tech >solution to go along with this high tech recirculation thingy. I hate to ask the obvious, but you do have a false bottom, EZ-Masher or manifold or something like that to hold the grain back, right? I have a slotted false bottom and a few mash particles get through, but not a lot as a rule. But then I don't use a delivery manifold (or a whirly-gig, either). I just run the ss braided hose from the pump on top of the grain bed (under about 1-2 inches of liquid) and have no trouble. I generally don't run the pump when I'm not heating or recirculating for clarity (vorlauf) at the end of the mash. Maybe you need to make bigger holes in the manifold. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:49:11 -0500 From: Eric Miller <ac051 at osfn.org> Subject: re: stuck ferment Al Beers <beersal at yahoo.com> asks about his 1.056 WLP002 extract/steeped grain porter's finishing gravity of 1.020 in #3851. Al, I don't think you should bother pitching more yeast. 65% attenuation is low, but not so low that I'd be concerned about it. http://smurman.best.vwh.net/zymurgy/white_labs.html suggests that the yeast you used might be from Fuller's. While I have never used WLP002, I have used lots of Wyeast 1968, which is also supposed to be the Fuller's yeast. It's a rapid fermenter and a quick flocculator. I have 10 gallons of porter fermenting right now, 5 gallons with Wyeast 1968, 5 gallons with WLP008. The yeast cakes were repitched from a split 6 gallon batch of bitter. The White Labs 008 yeast raised a huge kraeusen head that didn't fall for two weeks. The Wyeast 1968's kraeusen was never more than 1" thick and fell after just a couple of days. I roused the yeast by swirling the carboy a bit every day or two for a week. Both yeasts attenuated the 1.039 wort to 1.008. As for suggestions, I think you should bottle or keg your current batch now (if it's the same yeast as Wyeast 1968, it's probably crystal clear and doesn't need a secondary to drop yeast out of suspension). Also, you should brew another batch and pitch it with that nice big yeast cake from your porter. Remember to aerate well and rouse the yeast frequently after the kraeusen falls. This yeast requires a bit more attention than others, but it's one of my favorites for brewing British ales. - -- Eric Miller Holliston, MA Down a bit and off to the right of Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:27:32 -0500 From: "Bridges, Scott" <ScottBridges at sc.slr.com> Subject: Mallory This is really getting off topic but.... Peter Ensminger notes that even with the demise of BT, Mallory's personal assets are protected, as "any good accountant will shield a client's personal assets from business assets". I never met Mr. Mallory, have no idea of his personal situation, nor do I even have a dog in this fight. I would add that I do have personal experience with small business. I would put a caveat on Mr. Ensminger's statement to say that it is true largely only if you do not need to obtain financing for your business which is probably rare. My experience for a small business is that frequently a "personal" guarantee is required by banks, lessors, etc for a small business with little or no assets. This defeats the purpose of incorporation as far as asset protection goes, but is sometimes required to get in the game for this very reason. It comes down to the point of deciding whether to take a personal risk to start/expand your business. Many people take this risk - some are successful, and some lose their shirts along with their businesses. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:27:38 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: stuck ferment Al Beers <beersal at yahoo.com> writes from Mt. Clemens, MI >Brewed a robust porter a week ago ( extract/steeped >grain, WLP002 ). OG was 1.056, bubbling nicely after 6 >hrs. Racked to secondary 6 days later, gravity of >1.020, tasted fantastic! Now it sits in the secondary >flat, no activity. A wee bit of pressure in the >airlock, but very little bubbling. Rousing the carboy >doesn't help either. Should I pitch some more yeast?? >I was thinking of getting some more yeast, making a >starter and using a small portion to "wake up" this >porter, and step up the remaining in the starter and >brew another porter or stout. Any suggestions? This is a common problem, and you should probably just prime it and bottle it. Then make sure to monitor the pressure in case you do wake it up and you begin to get bottle bombs. But some malt extracts (Laaglander, especially) don't ferment out as fully as others (what did you use?), and dark grains and crystal may be less fermentable than pale malts. 64% apparent attenuation may be as far as you are going to get. You'll note that it is within the range of 63-70% that White Labs says is to be expected for WLP002 http://www.whitelabs.com/. Next time, you may want to pitch the yeast into a liter of 1.025 wort the day before and be extra diligent to aerate well. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:53:09 -0500 From: mohrstrom at humphrey-products.com Subject: Microwave Superheating Daniel Chisholm warns: > An interesting thing about boiling in a microwave > oven - since the heating is extremely gentle and > uniform, it is possible to superheat the liquid > (... when it does boil, it can be fairly violent ... > I have not yet figured out a solution to this. Did this myself not too long ago, having forgotten about the phenomenon. It is especially violent when using an Erlenmeyer flask, because the bubblin' crude is forced up through an ever decreasing volume ... After that incident, I whomp the side of the microwaver with the palm of my hand to jar the liquid out of its superheated state. I do this repeatedly until the contents begin to boil. I don't know what you'd do with a built-in. Try banging the cupboard doors ... Mark in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, Jan 29 2002 10:59:52 GMT-0500 From: Jim Busch <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: priming/dunkel for strong bottle conditioned beers.... I like to add about a tablespoon of thick slurry yeast with about 1/2 cup priming sugar per 5 gallons. Mix well before bottling. This works very good for Belgian Tripels, you might want to reduce the priming sugar for normal beers where the CO2 volumes are closer to 2.4. You can also grow up about 500 ml of yeast starter, decant when done and use the sediment for repitching. Repitching is very important for beers above 7%. <I am formulating a Dunkel recipe, 5 lbs Munich, 5 lbs <Pilsner, .25 lb <black, .5 lbs Chocolate, .5 lbs dextrine. Id lose the pils, choco, dextrine and use all Munich malt, decoct and add dehusked carfa to the lauter tun. Keep the hopping below 20 BUs too of Hallertau. Dunkles are not as dark as many think. Im proud of my experience working with BT, Stephen and Deb. I cant believe some of the attitudes I read here about being deceitful and underhanded. Prost! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:40:32 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: Munich Dunkles and toasted oats David Craft writes... **I am formulating a Dunkel recipe, 5 lbs Munich, 5 lbs Pilsner, .25 lb black, .5 lbs Chocolate, .5 lbs dextrine. Question, is this too much dark malt. Should I eliminate the black? ** Hmmm. I think here you get a question about personal preference. When making a dunkles I'm generally aiming for the flavor of fresh Ayinger Dunkles which can only be described as "liquid bread crust". As such I'd kill the chocolate malt altogether, maybe adding just a pinch (2oz) of black malt for color. I would also bump the Munich to 75% (or even 100%) of the grist...it ain't called Munich malt for nothin! ;-) Lastly, my experience with large percentages of Munich in the grist is that plenty of unfermentable sugars are left over, making the dextrine malt unnecessary. YMMV. Hope this helps. Ignore as you see fit. I can also highly, HIGHLY recommend toasting oats for brewing. The last mild I made had 1.5lbs of oats in it. I wanted toasty, so I kept them in the oven until they turned a carmel color and smelled like oatmeal cookies. Gave a wonderful bready aroma and flavor to the final product. Considering how little there is to work with in a mild, I was pretty happy with it. Cheers! - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:21:40 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Dunkel "David Craft" <David-Craft at craftinsurance.com> writes from Greensboro, NC >I am formulating a Dunkel recipe, 5 lbs Munich, 5 lbs Pilsner, .25 lb >black, .5 lbs Chocolate, .5 lbs dextrine. Question, is this too much dark >malt. Should I eliminate the black? I see many recipes with little or no >dark malts, mostly all Munich. However the commerical example I have seen >have enough dark malts to make them quite dark. Debittered black malt? Any >thoughts? Munich Dunkel is a favorite of mine, and one that I make with 100% dark Munich malt or a combination of regular Munich and other malts, but only a touch of dark malts. I consider black malt absolutely out of place if it is detectable (and I have a sensitive palate to it). A little chocolate is fine. It doesn't have to be all that dark. Schwartzbier is a related style with dark malt - in this case, it should be debittered chocolate or black malt such as Weyermann's Carafa. Here's what the (1999) BJCP Style Guidelines say about the two styles (irrelevant parts edited out): /////// 13A. Munich Dunkel Aroma: Munich malt aroma, with sweetish notes or hints of chocolate and toffee also acceptable. ... Appearance: Medium amber to dark brown, often with a red or garnet tint. Creamy light tan head, clear. Flavor: Dominated by the rich and complex flavor of Munich malt. May be slightly sweet from residual extract, but should not have a pronounced crystal or caramel malt flavor. Burnt or bitter flavors from roasted malts should not be perceived. ... Overall Impression: Characterized by depth and complexity of Munich malt and the accompanying melanoidins. ... Ingredients: Grist is primarily made up of German Munich malts, up to 100% in some cases or supplemented with German Pilsner malt. Small amounts of crystal malt can add to the malt complexity but should not compete with the Munich malt. Very slight additions of roasted malts may be used to improve color but should not add any flavor. 13B. Schwarzbier (Black Beer) Aroma: Primarily malty, with low aromatic sweetness and/or hints of roast malt often apparent. Low hop aroma may be perceived. No fruity esters or diacetyl. Flavor: Rich, full malt flavor balanced by moderate bitterness from both hops and roasted malt, providing a bitter-chocolate palate without being particularly dry. Low hop flavor and some residual sweetness are acceptable. Aftertaste tends to dry out slowly and linger, featuring hop bitterness with a complementary subtle roastiness in the background. No fruity esters or diacetyl. ... Overall Impression: A beer that balances rich dark malt flavors with a perceptible bitterness from hops and roasted malts. ... Comments: In comparison with a Munich Dunkel, usually darker in color, drier on the palate and with a noticeable (but not high) roasted malt edge to balance the malt base. Ingredients: German Munich malt and Pilsner malts for the base, supplemented by a small amount of roasted malts for the dark color and subtle roast flavors. /////// Jay Hersh wrote a good article in Brewing Techniques (vol. 4, no. 1, Jan/Feb 1996), but it doesn't appear to be online. As a matter of fact, it doesn't show up in a search. Hope this helps. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:59:35 -0800 From: Bob Girolamo <bob-girolamo at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Monks Cry Fowl Over Risk to Beer Water January 29, 2002 8:19 am EST BRUSSELS (Reuters) - A monastery that has brewed one of Belgium's most famous beers for the past 400 years is worried that the spring water used in its ales is in danger of being polluted by droppings from a nearby poultry farm. Monks at Saint-Remy monastery in Rochefort, southern Belgium, which produces the red, white and green capped Rochefort beers, have asked Liege University to study the permeability of the land around the monastery. The monks are concerned that plans to expand the poultry farm will lead to extra droppings that will pollute the precious spring water. Records show that the monastery had a brewery as far back as 1595, when barley and hops were grown in the grounds. But, as every beer lover knows, the secret is in the purity of the water. "We're afraid the quality of the water will change," said a spokesman for the 16 monks who continue to brew the famous Rochefort trappist beers. Since plans for the bigger poultry farm were drawn up, the council has received about 100 complaints from local residents concerned about possible damage to the environment. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:10:11 -0800 (PST) From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com> Subject: Idaho clean Dave Edmondson reports: >> I am using Idaho for the stainless steel. Interesting. I had a fleeting image of someone wiping down their keg with the slick half of a freshly sliced Idaho potato. Use the skin-covered side for tough spots that need abrasive cleaning. Pray tell, will this be a new and inexpensive option for cleaning our stainless equipment? :-) Calvin Perilloux Middletown, Maryland, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:00:16 -0600 From: Rob Dewhirst <rob at hairydogbrewery.com> Subject: acetylene clarification As someone pointed out to me off list, acetylene gas is not named for acetone. My bad. My experience is from safety warnings and use, not chemistry. Nevertheless, welding "acetylene" IS acetylene gas and acetone. In a perfect world, you never get acetone in large quantities through the regulator, but nobody's perfect, and the regulator in question was from a guy's garage of all places. More to the point, there are alternative and possibly unsafe acetylene substitutes used in metalworking (that use the same regulators and hoses) that may have been used with this equipment. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:11:37 -0800 From: Mark Alfaro <malfaro at qcpi.com> Subject: AFCHBC Call for Judges CALL FOR JUDGES ! 9th Annual America's Finest City Homebrew Competition San Diego, CA - Friday, March 1st and Saturday, March 2nd 2002 Hosted by QUAFF Friday session will include dinner, Saturday will include a light breakfast and lunch. This contest is registered with the BJCP and AHA. Also, mark down April 19 and 20 and April 26 and 27 for judging in the first round regionals of the AHA's National Homebrew Competition. A separate request for judges and stewards will be coming out for that event. Register to judge or steward on-line at http://www.softbrew.com/afchbc/ . This site also has information on entering the contest. Directions and further information will be mailed to registered judges in the next couple of weeks. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 15:00:39 -0500 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Pieces of my mind I guess it's as good a subject line as any because there's too many different subjects in my post. No. I will not be berating anyone... sorry. Heater elements: I remember seeing bulkhead fittings for them someplace (either in Home Depot or McMaster-Carr). You drill a hole and then bolt a plate to the wall of the vessel along with a rubber gasket stuck in between. I guess you have to drill 4 holes for the bolts as well and might as well get stainless bolts while you're at it. The heater element screws into a threaded nipple on the plate. I think it is used to either add a second element to an electric heater or to replace an existing one with a matching port. I believe that they were for 1" dia. elements. Either way, it's another possibility. Using Oxiclean: There's very little info regarding the ingredients for Oxiclean. That aside, I'm assuming in the least that a peroxygen cleanser and a hydrated builder are used. Beyond that, it's anyone's guess. Being curious, I looked up the patent for PBW. It gives basic information as to the formulation however, it is not a recipe. It was a learning experience for me as to what goes into these things. I've never read such a seemingly boring document with such intense interest! At the least, PBW contains a peroxygen compound to release oxygen and break down the foreign buildup; a chelate to bind dissolved metal which might neutralize the oxygen action; a metasilicate and builder which work together to raise the pH to 9 -12 in order to peptize or emulsify proteins and fat without the hazards of a caustic compound; a surfactant to enhance wettability, emulsification or dispersal. If you want to know more, search and read the patent yourself. It's public information. If anyone has a patent number for Oxiclean, I'd appreciate it. Or is it pat. pending? Please e-mail me privately. I'd like to compare the two and see where they are similar. I am guessing, right off the bat, that Oxiclean is not as alkaline as PBW and it may contain surfactants which may not be as easy to rinse out as in PBW. While I could probably come close to formulating my own PBW/Oxiclean-type cleaner for only a few cents per ounce, why mess with a good thing? PBW is tweaked especially for my purposes and I'd have to experiment up and down with a number of formulations until I got it right. Sounded like fun, but I'll leave it up to the pros ;-) Indoor automated brewing: C02/C0 and explosive propane leak warnings aside, can anyone tell me if they brew indoors using natural gas or propane? I don't feel like killing myself, so I'll go with adequate ventilation using a blower and keep my 20# LPG tank outside. But I cannot keep thinking that it is much easier for me to brew in the basement... out of the cold... out of the rain... running water on hand... no spotlights when it gets dark... Does anyone do this? Private e-mail me if you do to avoid the ramblings of the Digest safety monitors! On Sanitizing: While Charlie P. might get a bad rap from some, I firmly believe in his worn-out "Don't worry... yadayadayada" stance. If what you are using now works fine for you, keep on doing it. *IF* you encounter a problem, then you might want to consider some of the other options presented. If your brew tastes fine, then have another one and don't worry about if there's something you're missing. You're probably not. Promash in Linux: Has anyone gotten Promash to work in Linux wing WINE? I keep getting "File not found errors". Do I need to configure anything special? Promash is the only program forcing me forcing me to dual boot Windows and Linux on my PC. I refuse to give up my Promash! Carpe cerevisiae! Glen A. Pannicke glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD "I have made this letter longer than usual, because I lack the time to make it short." - Blaise Pascal Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 15:01:56 -0500 From: "Eric R. Theiner" <logic at skantech.com> Subject: One Step, OxyClean, etc. I had originally intended to simply not weigh in on this subject, but after receiving a message from a retailer directing my attention to the past discussion, I realized I had an obligation to the people stocking my products. First and foremost, a note to the brewer who lost a pot to OxyClean-- check the construction material of the pot. OxyClean is indeed a bleaching agent (albeit an oxygen bleach), but it is not as aggressive against stainless as chlorine can be. If your pot blackened, I'd be inclined to believe that the pot was either a very cheap stainless, or, more likely, aluminum. Either way, I'd check to see if white vinegar or lemon juice would remove the blackened layer. Secondly, OxyClean is similar to One Step, but does not have the buffering salts that One Step has. OxyClean is stronger as a bleaching agent. Before I address the issue of sanitizing, let me explain that LOGIC, Inc. (my company) puts out two products. Straight-A is a strong cleanser. It is comparable to Five Star's PBW (although their website had it wrong a while back-- they listed One Step as being comparable to PBW). If you have metals to clean, Straight-A would be the best choice because of the presence of alkaline silicates which will protect the metal during the cleaning process. Use Straight-A as a general purpose cleanser to clean up fermenters, brewpots, etc. If you have been disappointed by the performance of One Step as a substitute for an alkaline cleaner, I am not surprised. One Step was developed for light soils, and as a final rinse it was intended to come into contact with little to no soils. The presence of soils will compromise the effectiveness of almost all sanitizers out there. Finally, before I end this missive and post a new one (which was first used to address the sanitizing issue a few years ago in rec.crafts.brewing), I'd like to explain how these cleansers came to be and why they're available. I've been developing hard surface cleansers and sanitizers for over 11 years. Most of this is done in my "day-job" for a company that provides chemicals and equipment to restaurants and industrial/institutional kitchens. Chances are, if you eat out regularly (on a place that uses re-washable plates, etc.), you have eaten off of a plate washed by one of my detergents or rinsed with one of my rinse aids. If you live in the south, it's almost certain. I developed Straight-A shortly after I started brewing because at the time there was only one other specific detergent available (B-Brite, and it left me very unimpressed). I didn't develop Straight-A to become rich. I think the consensus is that anyone who actually makes a *living* via the homebrewing community is very lucky. The performance of the product was enough to get it noticed by LD Carlson, the largest homebrewing distributor in the U.S. They came to me and asked if we could work together to get the product distributed across the nation. They also asked if I could provide a no-rinse sanitizer because the biggest new thing coming on the scene was iodophor. (I spent a good bit of time in the lab on that one.) Finally I told them that I could not provide them with a "sanitizer" because of the constraints of the EPA, but that I could provide a "final rinse" product which would ensure the margin of cleanliness produced by cleaning. The bottom line for One Step is to use it if it provides good results. I have a wall full of ribbons and am myself a certified judge versed in detecting infected notes. I'll let that stand on it's own. Rick Theiner President LOGIC, Inc. Return to table of contents
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