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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Re: kettle screens ("The Holders")
  The Jethro gUmp Report ("Rob Moline")
  Re: Microbiology and malting ("Ray Daniels")
  Cleaning kettles (was: no subject) ("Arnold Neitzke")
  Re: licorice ("RJ")
  Re: licorice/anise ("Fred L. Johnson")
  re: Subject: Re: New Temperture Controler Chip ("Pete Calinski")
  Zero-crossing Triac control chips explained, maybe ("Dave Howell")
  flip-top gasket sanitation ("Henry Van Gemert")
  re: Alternatives to the E-Z Masher and Sure Screen (John Schnupp)
  Screens in the boil kettle (Pat Babcock)
  Fat Tyre Receipe (craftbrewer)
  Long stem mash thermometers ("Brian M Dotlich")
  How to clean you SS pot (Bill Tobler)
  Boil over in yeast starter ("Andy Woods")
  From the files of HBD - Premier Malt Extract ("Allen Godin")
  What I did over my weekend (Road Frog)
  RUBBERMAID COOLER - FALSE BOTTOM ("jps")
  Re: From the files of HBD - Premier Malt Extract (Pat Babcock)
  Finishing a dip stick ("Lou King")
  Test tubes with screw caps ("Doug Moyer")
  Bill Pfeiffer Memorial Mazer Cup ("Jason Henning")
  Cleaning pots (Al Klein)
  New Temperture Controler Chip. (Al Klein)
  Microbiology and malting (Al Klein)
  Re: Finishing a dip stick (Pat Babcock)
  McGinty's Irish-American Ale (Keith Stevenson)
  beer in colorado springs (Ed Jones)


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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 23:12:20 -0800
From: "The Holders" <zymie at charter.net>
Subject: Re: kettle screens

Brian "the skeptic" Lundeen writes:

"Not trying to slam you here, Wayne, but I will continue my skepticism until
I hear about successfully using a screen (any screen) in a boil kettle from
someone who does not market the product.

I don't see this as being an issue of hop compaction so much as the pellet
hops simply will not provide the "roughage" that the sticky goopy break
material need (and get from whole hops) in order to maintain drainage paths.
I can't see how any screen would not get totally covered in this gunk and
clog up instantly. "


Brian,

If you would agree to follow my advice, email me your address and I'll send
you the Bazooka screen of your choice. I would only ask that you agree to
post your results to this forum as "someone who does not market the
product".

Wayne Holder AKA Zymie
Long Beach CA
http://www.zymico.com




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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 01:37:29 -0600
From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at home.com>
Subject: The Jethro gUmp Report

			The Jethro Gump Report

>From: "Tom Byrnes" <kmstfb2 at exis.net>
>What would be good to clean the brown stains off the inside
 .bottom of  a stainless steel pot. Dishwashing liquid doesn't
> do the job.  Tom

     Had to respond to this one, as the best bike I ever owned, a 'Best
Motorcycle in the World,' BMW R90S, '76 was purchased from the Tom Byrnes
dealership in Sydney....
     John Palmer could advise better, but I would assume you need to hit it
with an acid wash...I recommend Acid 5 by 5 Star.

Dry Yeast Hydration Update...
     Following a recent post, I have learned that new research is revealing
optimal rehydration of dry yeast is best performed  at  94 F....for flavour
considerations. New packaging reflecting this should be in the works soon,
as will any further info I can provide from those developing it...
Cheers!
Jethro Gump

Rob Moline
Lallemand
"The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About
Beer!"






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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 05:08:42 -0600
From: "Ray Daniels" <raydan at ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Microbiology and malting


While I'm no expert on malting, I have made malt in school and on my own and
done a fair amount of reading on the subject and I'd like to assure Mr.
Moore that microbes are of much less concern generally during malting than
he seems to be giving them.  While fungi are a legitimate concern in the
purchase of barley, if you have healthy grain to begin with, you shouldn't
have to worry about them during malting.  If you are trying to learn malting
and trying to deal with poor quality barley at the same time . . . uh, good
luck, I guess.

A couple of resources on malting.  First, we did a Zymurgy issue on the
subject a year ago, Jan-Feb 2001.  George DePiro covered the basics of
technique, etc.  Second, there is now a good modern book on malting called
"Malts and Malting" by Dennis E. Briggs (of Hough, Briggs, Stevens and Young
for those of you who are fans of the two-volume "Malting and Brewing
Science").  It is most likely available on Amazon.

Finally, steep schedules are varied to achieve the desired moisture content
and initiate germination.  Lacking specially built tanks where air can be
infused into the tank during steeping (aerobic steeping), it makes more
sense to alternate steep and "couch" periods (where the grain is drained and
allowed to sit---as if on the 'couch').  The steep periods may range from 3
to 24 hours, couch periods about 3 to 6 hours as I recall.  Steep water
temps should be 50 F or so.  If you are working outside the house, you might
steep while you are at work, couch for a few hours in the evening, steep
again while you sleep and couch for a bit between waking and leaving for
work again.  Two to three days of this will most likely get you to the
necessary moisture content and by the end, you should see the grain begin to
"chit" or show a little white dot at the base tip---those are the nascent
rootlets beginning to emerge---and this stage marks the onset of
germination.

Good luck,

Ray Daniels
Editor, Zymurgy & The New Brewer
Director, Brewers Publications
ray at aob.org
Call Customer Service at 888-822-6273 to subscribe or order individual
magazines.
For more information, see www.beertown.org
Don't Miss:
Real Ale Festival - Feb 27 - March 2, 2002 - Chicago, IL
www.realalefestival.com



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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 07:09:29 -0500
From: "Arnold Neitzke" <arnold_neitzke at ameritech.net>
Subject: Cleaning kettles (was: no subject)

>From: "Tom Byrnes" <kmstfb2 at exis.net>
>Subject:
>
>What would be good to clean the brown stains off the inside
>bottom of  a stainless steel pot. Dishwashing liquid doesn't
 >do the job.  Tom

Tom

There are three things that come to mind quickly

1. Ignore it, it does not hurt anything
2. With the pot dry, put it on the stove on high heat and burn it off (I
have tried it and it works!)
3. PBW

I have a couple of spots in my mash tun (used to be my boil kettle) and I
just ignore them.

I learned about the "burn it off" technique right here in the HBD.  It kind
of goes against the grain but it does the job pretty good.

PBW, what can I say.  I'll take creosol off of the glass doors on my wood
burning fireplace!

Hope you find this helpful

AJ  Brighton, Mi ([0,0] last night, nice meeting Jeff)

PS anybody trying to email Jeff, may not get through.  It looks like comcast
is doing a Great job of being a firewall for him.



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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 07:30:33 -0500
From: "RJ" <wortsup at metrocast.net>
Subject: Re: licorice

Dave Clark <clark at capital.net> wrote:

"<snip>  I am planning a porter to enter in a competition.  It uses a pound
of black
malt, a licorice stick and a vanilla bean in the recipe.  I have made it
before and it is the only porter that I have made that has been even close
to being good.  My brewing supply shop (EBI in Saratoga) NAJASC had one
stick of brewers licorice for months and I didn't buy it.  Sure enough when
I went to buy it, it was gone.  I have a box of licorice toffees made by
Callard and Bowser, but they have a lot of other stuff in them like salt,
canola oil, condensed skim milk and brazil nut paste.  I can't find
licorice anywhere else.  Will I be okay using these toffees or should I
wait for my supplier to get some in?"

Dave,

If you really can't find it, try a Health (or Natural) Food store in your
area, they should have licorice root (that can be split and added to the
boil).   If possible, the root needs to be in the boil longer than the
"stick", so boil it at least 30 min or longer.

Ciao,

RJ
43:30:3.298N x 71:39:9.911W
Lakes Region of NH






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Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 08:00:22 -0500
From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: licorice/anise

Dave Clark is having difficulty finding licorice for a porter.

Years ago I made a 5 gallon batch of porter with in which I used 1 oz. whole
anise seed in the last 10 minutes of the boil to give essentially the same
flavor as licorice (in my humble opinion).  Its been quite a while and my
notes are terrible, but I remember this being a little more flavor than I
really wanted, so I'd recommend a half-ounce for starters.  I'd also suggest
cutting back a little on the bittering hops if you use anise, as this
provides some bittering also.  (I think this was a suggestion from
Papazian.)

I also prepared an anise extract for 2.5 gallons.  The extract was made by
heating 8 grams anise seed in vodka on the stove top.  This was added at the
time of bottling.  I  remember this producing a nice licorice-like
background flavor (again my notes are terrible).
- -- 
Fred L. Johnson
Apex, North Carolina
USA



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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 10:36:42 -0500
From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net>
Subject: re: Subject: Re: New Temperture Controler Chip

Ralph W. Davis wrote
_________________________________________________________________________

I looked at the site and I really have NO IDEA what you are talking about...
(temp control for a freezer???).  Can you explain this using English, not
Engineeringeze

___________________________________________________________________________

Sorry I wasn't more specific.  This chip would not be good for controlling a
refrigerator.  It is for controlling a heater or DC (Direct Current) motor.
It would cause over heating of the motor if used with an AC (Alternating
Current) motor like in most refrigerators.

Pete Calinski
East Amherst NY
Near Buffalo NY


***********************************************************
*My goal:
*      Go through life and never drink the same beer twice.
*     (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.)
***********************************************************



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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 09:11:16 -0700
From: "Dave Howell" <djhowell at cableaz.com>
Subject: Zero-crossing Triac control chips explained, maybe

In HBD #3861, Ralph Davis asks:

"I looked at the site and I really have NO IDEA what you are talking
about...
(temp control for a freezer???).  Can you explain this using English, not
Engineeringeze?"

It's a control for a heater (the resistive load part).  It's meant to turn a
triac (think of a solid-state relay or a light dimmer control) on and off;
the triac controls the flow of current to your heater.

The reason for the zero-crossing part is for high-frequency, aircraft,
precision, and military applications, and not so much for residential 60Hz
power applications; but to keep the FCC happy many residential applications
(e.g. newer ovens) use them as well.  You see, the AC current is always
swinging between +170 and -170 or so volts.  If you turn a heater on when
the power is way up (or down) the swing, near the top (or bottom), then you
have a big inrush of current, which can act in funny ways in the power
circuit, causing multi-frequency electomagnetic noise (radio static).

If you wait until the voltage is swinging through zero volts to turn it on,
there is no large inrush of current, and no funny reflections, and no radio
frequency (RF) noise.

Most AC heater controls use pulse-width-modulation, which is a way of saying
they turn the heater on and off many (say, 10) times a second.  Any faster
than 60 times a second, and there is no way you can wait for a zero-crossing
on residential 60Hz power.  They control how much heat is delivered by
changing the ON time:  to deliver more heat, you have the heater ON for more
zero-crossing to zero-crossing periods and to deliver less, you have the
heater OFF for more zero-zero periods.

For a freezer, you'd be much better off using an everyday relay, because
your on-off cycle is on the order of minutes (like 2 minutes on, 30 off).  A
zero-crossing triac control would be more-or-less a waste, and may actually
cause the compressor motor damage (low starting torque).


Did that help?



Dave Howell
Mesa, Az
[1630.2, 247.7] Rennerian


THESE are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier and the
sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their
country; but he that stands it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and
woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this
consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the
triumph. What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness
only that gives every thing its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper
price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an
article as FREEDOM should not be highly rated.
                -- Thomas Paine, "The Crisis No. 1"



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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 11:42:00 -0500
From: "Henry Van Gemert" <hvangeme at edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: flip-top gasket sanitation

I've finally accumulated enough empty Grolsch bottles to set up a 5 gal
batch in them. Is there a preferred technique of making sure the gaskets are
sanitized?

I normally use bleach solution and was wondering if I need to take the
gaskets off and soak them or just douse them realy good?

And, if anyone has any of these laying around going unused that they want to
get rid of......

Henry
Portage MI




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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 11:14:46 -0800 (PST)
From: John Schnupp <johnschnupp at yahoo.com>
Subject: re: Alternatives to the E-Z Masher and Sure Screen

>I seem to recall that one of our Tennessee brewing buddies in Chattanooga,
>C.D. Pritchard, has used the stainless mesh coils from washer hoses that

I use the same set-up in my boil pot.  Never had a problem, EVER.
Oh, yeah, guess that would be biased since I made it myself.  Sorry
guess my "testimonial" doesn't count in the eyes of Brian.  The again,
since I don't market it, maybe it does.

I built mine by drilling holes in my pick-up tube.  I then liberated
the SS mesh from a washer hose and slid the tubing into the center.
Fasten the ends with SS hose clamps.  

If you whirlpool, form the pickup in a circle that is larger than the
area the collects the hops.  I have a flat bottom pot.  My pick-up
is on the perimeter of the pot.  I think it works great.  My .02.

=====
John Schnupp, N3CNL
??? Hombrewery
[560.2, 68.6] Rennerian
Georgia, VT
95 XLH 1200, Horse with no Name



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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 15:21:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Screens in the boil kettle

Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...

Brian  Lundeen writes:

"Not trying to slam you here, Wayne, but I will continue my
skepticism until I hear about successfully using a screen (any
screen) in a boil kettle from someone who does not market the
product.

I don't see this as being an issue of hop compaction so much as
the pellet hops simply will not provide the "roughage" that the
sticky goopy break material need (and get from whole hops) in
order to maintain drainage paths. I can't see how any screen
would not get totally covered in this gunk and clog up
instantly. "

I use a screen of my own construction in the boil kettle.
Basically, it consists of two tubes of SS mesh clamped onto a
tee into which the kettle drain is inserted. Works great no
matter the hop type used. Previous to this, I used standard
perforated plate-type screens. These would constantly and
consistently plug up, requiring lots of intervention in order to
fully drain the kettle. Plus, with the mesh screens, I can
easily SEE when the kettle is fully drained.

I'm sold on the tube screens for use in the boil kettle. My
"design" is similar, I think, to the Bazooka. 

There are some drawbacks to these, though. One has been when
boiling wiezens: the break material clings to the mesh, and is a
BEAR to clean lately - requiring multiple cuastic "baths" to
finally remove frm the mesh. The other, and this may only be
with the way mine are configured, is that the mesh ends up being
worked at the interface with the tee, and becomes brittle, and
eventually breaks.

- -- 
 -
God bless America!

Pat Babcock in SE Michigan         pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor           janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site                       http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page                 http://hbd.org/pbabcock
[18, 92.1] Rennerian
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
                                  from my yeast lab Saturday




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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 12:06:01 +1100
From: craftbrewer at telstra.easymail.com.au
Subject: Fat Tyre Receipe 

G'day All
/
Well I have been lured from my lurk mode ( since I cant really 
post about the goings on in Nth Qld). Oh by the way heard 
about our killer Toad Fish. Opps I have digressed.
/
Now I am lazier than a saltie on a mud bank, and the archives 
are just too hard, so to all those still willing to talk to me, anyone 
got a receipe for Fat Tyre Amber Ale I can pass on to a 
fellow brewer.
/
Shout 
Graham Sanders
/
Oh I cant help it!!!!!!!!!!
Yes We have a new killer in the North. I thought we had it 
sweet with a Head Hunting Cod eating tourists 
( and by the way more reports are filtering thru of cod trying 
to bite the heads off tourists). 
But no: We have also Tommy the Toe-eating Toadfish. 
Read all about it
/
http://abc.net.au/news/newsitems/s476825.htm


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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 15:19:26 -0500
From: "Brian M Dotlich" <BMDotlich at cs.com>
Subject: Long stem mash thermometers

Fellow Brewers,

In HBD #3856, Ken Taborek says

"It seems to be very difficult to find a _long_ thermometer with a
temperature range suitable for boiling water (or wort, as the case may be)."

Ken,  I have a bi metal dial type thermometer that has a 20 inch long probe.
I got it at a homebrew shop in Indianapolis.  It has a 2 inch face and a
range of 0-220 degrees F.

When I first saw it I thought it would be great, although I have found that
it is TOO long for what I have needed so far and I got a 12 inch probe that
works better.  I'm pretty sure I won't need the long one.  I'm building a
mash/lauter tun now and I think I'm going to build a thermometer into the
side of it, but I don't want to get rid of this ultra long one until I know
for sure I don't need it.

If you want I can give you the email address of the place I got this one and
you can see if she can get one for you because I don't think she stocks this
one anymore.

Hope I could be of assistance

Brian Dotlich
Centerville OH (soon to be relocating to Indianapolis IN)



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Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 20:01:03 -0600
From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: How to clean you SS pot

Tom,
   I use PBW by Five Star.  It works great, and cleans your pot like new.
Just follow the directions.  It's a great clean in place (CIP) cleaner.   I
especially like it for my heat exchanger in the HLT and my Maxi chiller.
Not affiliated with anyone or anybody.  Also remember, It's not a sanitizer,
its a cleaner.  

Bill Tobler
Lake Jackson, TX
(1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian




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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 00:46:50 -0500
From: "Andy Woods" <andywoods at hotmail.com>
Subject: Boil over in yeast starter

To all,

  Recently I had a small boil over when preparing some wort for a yeast 
starter.  My questions is: would the yeast be good to use if I had a small 
boil over.  I wouldnt think it would hurt, but I rather ask than chance the 
yeast and be dissapointed.

Thanks,
Andy



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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 00:54:50 -0500
From: "Allen Godin" <allengodin at hotmail.com>
Subject: From the files of HBD - Premier Malt Extract

I am a new brewer. I have only brewed one batch so far, but I found Premier 
 - Malt Extract - Natural Hop Flavored "LIGHT" in a new grocery store in my 
town. This is 2.2 lbs of Malt Extract imported from the UK and as the with 
the last time (this was posted) it says you can make up to 8 SIX PACKS of 
beer, and the yeast is provided under the cover.
Being new to brewing, and not having made a complicated recipe yet, I'd like 
to know if anyone has used this Malt Extract for brewing. I'd also like to 
know what it would compare to.
I've seen the malts offered by Premier on some Homebrewing Catalog Sites, 
but none of them are the "LIGHT". Even on Premier's own home pages they 
don't mention this extract. It seems reasonably priced at $5.69 for the 2.2 
lb can with brewer's yeast included. (I know, throw it out) There was only 
one reply last time this topic came up, and it was to agree that they'd seen 
the product.
Aren't we supposed to be homebrewer's? Use what you can find and all that? I 
wouldn't follow their instructions to use cane sugar, but please help with 
some recipes to make this something they'll want to keep on the shelves for 
when I am in desperate need. :)
If no one has used it, I challenge the regular readers to find this malt 
extract and come up with some recipes.

I live in Vermont, and my only other homebrewing experience was while in the 
Air Force stationed in Northern Michigan in 1983-4. The people I worked with 
got together and brewed some beer with one of the "new" kits at that time. 
Unfortunately the beer skunked on us, and I haven't tried on my own until 
now.

I'm looking forward to many sessions of brewing, and drinking homebrew, and 
providing my experinces with other's when they become new brewers.

Thank's for the help.
Allen Godin



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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 06:24:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Road Frog <road_frog_run at yahoo.com>
Subject: What I did over my weekend

In conclusion, never use rye flour!  And leave plenty
of headroom in fermenter.

I know you have used rye flour for an all rye beer so
page down, but for you wide eyed brewers here is my
experience.

I have used rye flakes with great success (get the
grain bed very warm for run off), one of my house
brews is a porter with rye.  Anyway, cereal mash 4+
lb. of rye flour with Muntons barley.  Get the mash
all in the cooler at 12:30, 154^F.

90 minutes later infuse with boiling water, start the
run off.  Slow, but steady, I can live with that.  In
30 minutes it stopped!  Blow through tube, nice
bubbles everywhere.  No more than three drops come
out.

To make a long sparge short, final get mad enough to
scoop everything out.  Dump in 200^f water, add back
1/3 of mash, wait 15 minutes.  Start sparge, looking
good.  

Collect a gallon or so, stop, add in another 1/3 of
mash. Wait 15 minutes, start sparge.  Slow but OK. 
Add back in last third, wait fifteen, slow but
something any way.  15 minutes later stopped!

between two fermenters.  Finish clean up a 9.  I did
cook dinner, balance the check book, and a few other
chores while I waited on this wort.

Glyn in Estill Springs, TN

Yes, this morning the yeast had crawled out of the
buckets and on to the floor.  Oh joy.



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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:45:05 -0500
From: "jps" <segedy at gsinet.net>
Subject: RUBBERMAID COOLER - FALSE BOTTOM

I am gradually working up to all grain and last fall acquired a couple of
Rubbermaid  coolers (10 gal) (#9401).  Only paid $1 at an auction.  They are
missing the spouts but from readings here I need to replace those with metal
fixtures (stainless preferred?) any way.

My question is - On the inside there are 4 protrusions running down the wall
of the cooler,  so are any of the commercially available false bottoms made
to fit around these? If not has anyone made one themselves?   Should I plan
on making my own?  or perhaps using a commercial one and cutting to fit?
The diameter of the container is 12 3/4" but the diameter at two opposite
protrusions is 11 1/4".

Thanks in advance.

John Segedy



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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 15:25:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Re: From the files of HBD - Premier Malt Extract

Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...

New brewer (welcome to the fold!) "Allen Godin"
<allengodin at hotmail.com> inquires after Premier Light
Hopped Malt Extract...

I used to use the Premier light hopped malt extract as "booster"
when brewing from kits - particularly, Munton's (actually, back
then, it was Munton's and Fison's...) Nut Brown Ale kit - one
can of Munton's Nutbrown Ale Kit, one can of Premier yielding 5
gallons of ~1.039 wort. I stopped when my LHBS stopped carrying
it. It's a good malt extract. I'm curious, though, about the
imported from UK comment - Premier is located in Grosse Pointe,
Michigan. I always thought they were using domestic malts.
Perhaps they've started importing the malts or the syrup (or
maybe they always have, but I'd never noticed)?

In any case, the yeast under the lid is a nondescript ale
yeast. I used to toss both that and the yeast supplied with the
Munton's kit on top of the wort, and there are those who still
bemoan the fact that I rarely brew that recipe anywomre.

The extract, on its own, makes a pretty pitiful brew with little
bitterness. Don't get me wrong - you can most assuredly make
beer with no more malts than this extract, but 2.2 lbs would
yield an insipid wort of roughly 1.015 (five gallons) and little
character. First off, I wouldn't make a brew with any less than
three of them (though a 1.031 wort is "respectable" - two cans
should yield that OG in five gallons). And, you'll want to add
some additional hops and, perhaps, "steep" some specialty grains
in in as well.

Per "lightness", expect something about the darkness of an IPA.
To get anything lighter, you'd need something like Alexander's
Sun Country Extra Light Malt Extract, or mash yourself. (Maybe
not boiling the wort would yield a lighter brew, but at risk of
a contaminated batch.)

Finally, I'm sure that at least part of the reason why you don't
see that particular extract explicitly listed on the catalog
site is that it is probably still "classed" as a baking malt
extract under "liquid sweeteners". This is likely a vestige from
the days when brewing beer at home was against the law, and the
extracts for doing so were sold as "hop flavored" baking
extracts :^) I'll feel pretty safe in assuming that the "You can
make..." emblem popped up on the domestic cans post-1978 -
probably the same time the yeast appeared under the lid, too.
Items listed in the home brewing side of their site appear to be
malts (Paul's Malts) or extract kits (The Premier of Homebrew
Beers).

- -- 
 -
God bless America!

Pat Babcock in SE Michigan         pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor           janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site                       http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page                 http://hbd.org/pbabcock
[18, 92.1] Rennerian
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
                                  from my yeast lab Saturday



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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 18:43:46 -0500
From: "Lou King" <lking at pobox.com>
Subject: Finishing a dip stick

I don't know if "dip stick" is the right term, but I'm talking about
using a piece of wood to determine how much wort or water is in a
kettle.  What's the right term?

Anyway, I bought a piece of pine for the purpose.  I am thinking that it
would be a good idea to finish it somehow, to keep the nasties from
soaking in and to make easier to sanitize.

One idea is to use polyurethane, but I don't know if that will break
down at high temperatures.  The other idea is taken from my Mon-Amie
Paddle (NAYYY), which BB&MB says is finished with "food grade oil".

Will polyurethane break down at boiling temperatures?

Alternately, where do I find "food grade oil" suitable for this purpose?

- -------
Lou King - Ijamsville, MD - [394.4, 118.4] Rennerian



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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 18:38:29 -0500
From: "Doug Moyer" <shyzaboy at yahoo.com>
Subject: Test tubes with screw caps

Yeast ranchers,
    With my microscope on the way soon (thanks to Dr. Paul Farnsworth, a
great guy!) and most of my equipment on order, I am soon on my way to
learning about the lives and times of my yeasties. One of our local yeast
ranchers (Raymond Lowe) recommends test tubes with screw on caps. He got his
from the now defunct local homebrew supplier. I don't know where to find
such a creature. Any ideas? (I got most of my stuff from Cynmar, but they
dinna have this.)

Ranch on!

Doug Moyer
Salem, VA

Star City Brewers Guild: http://hbd.org/starcity

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness.'"
     ~ Dave Barry




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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 12:26:26 -0500
From: "Jason Henning" <mazercup at thehennings.com>
Subject: Bill Pfeiffer Memorial Mazer Cup

We're Back!!

The Bill Pfeiffer Memorial Mazer Cup is accepting entries until March 9th.
Entries are $6 each and you may enter as many times as you like. We will be
judging mead in eight categories; Show Mead, Traditional Mead, Cyser,
Pyment, Melomel, Metheglin, Braggot/Bracket and Open/Combined. Check out the
web site at http://mazercup.org/ for details.

Please past this information on to your club. Mention us in your newsletter,
on your web site, through your list server, or just word of mouth, it's all
appreciated.

Cheers,
Jason Henning
mazercup at thehennings.com



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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 20:51:21 -0500
From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net>
Subject: Cleaning pots

Tom Byrnes asks:

>What would be good to clean the brown stains off the inside 
>bottom of  a stainless steel pot. Dishwashing liquid doesn't
> do the job.

OxyClean or PBW.  BLC might also work, but I've never tried it on
pots.

Dishwashing liquid has perfume, which seems to stay, even in SS.
- ---
[Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] 
Al - rukbat at optonline dot net


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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 21:09:02 -0500
From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net>
Subject: New Temperture Controler Chip.

Ralph Davis asks:

>I looked at the site and I really have NO IDEA what you are talking about...
>(temp control for a freezer???).  Can you explain this using English, not
>Engineeringeze?

Freezer temperature controllers (the knob in the freezer) generally
don't go much above 0 degrees F.  If you want to use the freezer as a
beer cooler you have to be able to keep the temperature in the 40-50
degree range (33-55 if you want to use it to make lager).  This
requires an external temperature controller.  You can (if you're
designing one) start with transistors, or comparator ICs, or you can
use an IC specifically made to control a "box with a compressor used
to keep things cool" (call it a freezer, refrigerator or kegerator -
it's the same thing).

That's what all this is about - a temperature controller IC that Atmel
has just announced.
- ---
[Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] 
Al - rukbat at optonline dot net


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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 21:17:06 -0500
From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net>
Subject: Microbiology and malting

Clifton Moore asks about identifying micro-organisms in malt water:

>Specific wavelength
>absorption, or fluorescence strike me as likely candidates for gross assay.

There are any number of optical recognition systems that could be used
for this.  Check the rice industry - a company I worked for about 20
years ago adapted one of their systems to check for rice grains that
had broken at the thin spot.  They also made ELISA (am I remembering
the acronym correctly?  I'm a systems analyst, not a microbiologist)
assay systems that used the same optical recognition technology.

(The company was Artec Systems, and it no longer exists, but it's old
technology, so there have to be even better systems available now.)
- ---
[Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] 
Al - rukbat at optonline dot net


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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 21:31:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Re: Finishing a dip stick

Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...

"Lou King" <lking at pobox.com> asks what he should finish his
dipstick with...

Nothing! I made mine out of a 1" dia dowel. I used a wire, a
torch and two pairs of plyers to make the marks (check level,
heat wire in flame until cherry red, garot the dowel at the
appropriate point), and a wood-burning chisel to mark the
numeric level. No finish. Dip, check, rinse, dry. Used this for
the past, eh, ten years? with no untoward effects evident in the
resulting beers. (I bought two sight glasses from moving brews
about 15 months ago, but still haven't put them on the HLT and
boil kettle. No time, no time...)



- -- 
 -
God bless America!

Pat Babcock in SE Michigan         pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor           janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site                       http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page                 http://hbd.org/pbabcock
[18, 92.1] Rennerian
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
                                  from my yeast lab Saturday





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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 22:12:30 -0500
From: Keith Stevenson <k.stevenson at kagekaze.org>
Subject: McGinty's Irish-American Ale

I lack the equipment, patience, skill, etc. to brew an all grain batch, but
Jeff's recipe for McGinty's Irish-American Ale sounded too good to pass up.
I sat down with my handy copy of ProMash (insert appropriate disclaimer here)
and came up with a modified version that would be a better fit for my setup.
(I mini-mash and supplement with extract.)

2.5  lbs Pale Malt (2-row)
2.0  lbs Extra-light DME
1.0  lbs Pale Malt (6-row)
1.75 lbs Flaked Maize
0.75 lbs Flaked Barley
0.5  lbs Crystal (40L)
2    oz  Chocolate Malt

This is the largest quantity of grain that I've ever worked with.  I used a
single infusion mash at 152F for 60 minutes, then spent an hour or so on
recirculation and sparging.  I was very happy with the results.  The mash
smelled (and tasted!) wonderful and gave me very few problems.  This was
probably my most successful mash yet.  (I actually enjoyed myself as opposed
to spending the entire time cursing.)

I used Fuggle as my bittering hop and use Kent Goldings for the flavor and
aroma additions.  As suggested, I resisted the temptation to increase the
hopping rate.  (I used the Fuggle, because I had the right amount already on
hand.)

I pitched a quart starter of Wyeast Irish Ale yeast, and my carboy is now
happily bubbling away in the basement.

Two questions:

1) I noticed a lot more trub that I am accustomed to seeing in the bottom of
   my kettle.  Is this a function of the non-malt fermentables or the high
   protein content of the 6-row malt?  (Or is it something else entirely?)

2) What is the appropriate carbonation level for this sort or beer?


Thanks for the recipe Jeff!  It sounded good, was a joy to make, and it gave
me some additional confidence in handling larger amounts of grain.  Now I just
have to give it time to ferment and condition so I can see how it tastes.

Regards,
- --Keith Stevenson--
Louisville, KY
[294.7, 199.4] Apparent Rennerian (I think)


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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 22:39:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Ed Jones <ejones at ironacres.com>
Subject: beer in colorado springs

I'm in Colorado Springs this week for buisiness. Does anyone have
a recommendation for brew pubs in the area? Thanks!

- --
Ed Jones - Columbus, Ohio U.S.A - [163.8, 159.4] [B, D] Rennerian

"When I was sufficiently recovered to be permitted to take nourishment,
I felt the most extraordinary desire for a glass of Guinness...I am
confident that it contributed more than anything else to my recovery."
  - written by a wounded officer after Battle of Waterloo, 1815



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---