HOMEBREW Digest #3877 Thu 28 February 2002

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  Re: CO2 through door (Nate Wahl)
  Tubing - Moving Brews, Where are you? ("Michael R. Roesch")
  Re: Fermentation (Jeff Renner)
  high FG extract beers (Marc Sedam)
  Re: Brewing Software Recommendations? ("Joel Plutchak")
  water analysis (Marc Sedam)
  re: extract wheat woes ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
  CO2 thru the door.... ("Smith,Brian H")
  maple sap....in place of water : will the grain convert? (leavitdg)
  Your water analysis. (John Palmer)
  Starkbierfest (Phil Wilcox)
  Chest Freezer Size (Jeff)
  dried lager yeasts ("Robin Griller")
  WLP036 suggestions (Greg Remake)
  Correction on Re: CO2 through door (Nate Wahl)
  Beer in the secondary : how long? (Arnaud VIEZ)
  Old Brown ("David Craft")
  Fermentation (Al Klein)
  RADLER ("Fred Scheer")
  WEIZEN ("Fred Scheer")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 06:11:09 -0500 From: Nate Wahl <cruiser at cros.net> Subject: Re: CO2 through door In HBD3876, Doug Hurst asked about using a corny gas-in connect on either side of a refridgerator door for a disconnectable means of getting CO2 into the housing. Great idea! And yes, those threads on cornies are a rather unique bird. I finally found through trial-and-error (went to the local hardware store with fitting in-hand) that these fittings are very close to the male half of a 3/8" Compression fitting, not a pipe size at all! The sealing surface seems to be tapered on the kegs rather than round like the compression fittings, but with a firm tightening it does seal gas tight. Brass smashes. I ended up making a 'hose washer' that connects up to the brewery garden hose, for flushing out keg outlet lines after use. Very usefull. (But either have the hoses clamped on the picnic fawcett or open it before pressurizing with city water pressure!!!) A picture can be seen at: http://www.cros.net/cruiser/fittings.jpg In addition, the lower half of the photo shows a spray nozzle strainer that I found at the local farm supply store. Its a 100 mesh SS screen, and there is now a length of 1/4" flared copper tubing slodered to the flange end; I'm going to try this as a substitute for a more expensive oxygenating stone. Much more cleanable. They have 200 mesh screens also available if the bubbles aren't tiny enough. Thoughts? Regards, Nate Wahl aka Oogie Wa Wa Oak Harbor, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:38:54 -0500 From: "Michael R. Roesch" <mroesch at bellsouth.net> Subject: Tubing - Moving Brews, Where are you? As another person has posted, Moving brews appears to be "shut down" and not responding to e-mails. Does anyone have an alternate source for the high temp Norpene tubing (that does not require a roll purchase)? Thanks in advance! Michael R. Roesch webmaster at valuepricehosting.com www.valuepricehosting.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:48:35 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Fermentation "Snyder,Gary,TSG" <Gary.Snyder at nyscot.ang.af.mil> writes: > I am new to home brewing and have a question about fermentation. I >am in the process of making an ale with all fuggles hops. My fermentation >process started within 3 hours and within 6 hours I had a pretty rapid >fermentation. This only lasted about 30 hours then all activity stopped. >Is this alright? Welcome to a great hobby and HBD, Gary. Your fermentation speed is not uncommon with some dry yeasts or large starters with any yeast. What kind did you use, and how much, and what was the temperature of the wort and surroundings? If you have a secondary fermenter (a glass carboy is most common), you can rack your beer to that and let it settle until it's clear. Otherwise, you can just leave it in the primary fermenter until you bottle it. I'd guess you are somewhere in NY from your email address. It's always nice to let us know. You might find that there is another brewer you didn't know about right in your neighborhood who could help. Jeff - -- ***Please note my new address*** Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:26:01 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: high FG extract beers There have been quite a few posts recently regarding the high final gravity of extract beers. I have had quite a bit of success using "pilsner enzyme" or "amylase enzyme" (I suspect they're the same) sold by many HB stores on the web. Add this to your fermenter and it will generally knock down the FG by at least 6-8 points. I suppose there's a chance it will drop the gravity too much, but I've never had that problem nor have the people I've suggested it to. Seems to end around 1.010. Good luck. - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 14:26:52 +0000 From: "Joel Plutchak" <plutchak at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Brewing Software Recommendations? Bryan Keary asked: >Does anyone have any recommendations for brewing software? I like one of the "early" web resources, The Beer Recipator, which currently can be found at The Brewery web site <http://www.brewery.org/>. It's a server-side application so has some of the (minor IMO) drawbacks of such a system and could use some ingredient database updating, but it's great for quickly working up and tweaking a recipe. Promash is more complete but I find suffers from the common Windows malady of click-itis, e.g., too many clicks needed to do stuff like add a bunch of hops and grains. It's tough on the tendons. Joel Plutchak Effervescently massaging massive muscles mid-tendon, midway betwixt the cascading corn and somnolent soybeans of glorious wind-swept East-Central Illinois. (Rennerian coords are so dry and boring. ;-) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:45:03 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: water analysis Greg Collins (the notorious GMC) has questions about his water and its effects on dark beer. Based on the water analysis you should be able to make beautiful beer of any style without mucking about with your water. Maybe a pre-boil to drop some carbonate, but that still shouldn't be a big deal. I might suggest that you're over-sparging or perhaps boiling the specialty grains if you're brewing extract beers. The bitterness could be attributed to extracting tannins from the grains. If it's best described as bitter and "drying" on the tongue (like chewing a red grape skin), then it could be tannins. Otherwise, I dunno... - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 10:14:01 -0500 From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: re: extract wheat woes Someone added to the complaint of high terminal gravities when brewing an extract wheat beer. One commonality jumped out while reading the second posting; Cooper's extract! Not that it is a bad extract from my experience but I do know their new dry malt is 60% fermentable compared to the more typical 70% of other manufacturers. Maybe also related: I was browsing though the Lallemand site and noticed mention of someone doing a study of malt extracts and his findings were that some extracts had 80+% of their fermentables as D-glucose. If I remember correctly there is a tendency for yeast, when subjected to high glucose substrates, to lose the power to ferment more complex saccharides. The study did mention that this maybe was _not_ from adding glucose to the extract but from perhaps excessive use of bacterial source A-amylase and amyloglucosidase in production of the extract. Just something to think about. I never had an attenuation problem with 3068 and Munton's wheat extract. In fact if I've forgotten to brew a beer promised for a club meeting, this is one that I know I can knock out in 10 days and it is met will general acceptance. NPL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:55:26 -0600 From: "Smith,Brian H" <bhsmith at bogmil.gylrd.com> Subject: CO2 thru the door.... Doug, Why not try a air tool fitting. Since you want a quick connect on both sides of the refrigerator thread use the connector used with air tools. They are relatively inexpensive and very available. I think I would put the "male" end on the hose from my CO2 cylinder. Attach the female end on the outside if the fridge. Put the male end on the inside of the fridge and the female end leading to the kegs. That way the kegs would stay pressurized when you disconnect the inside fitting. Brian Smith Big Ring Brewery and Winery Bogalusa, La Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 11:41:40 -0500 (EST) From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: maple sap....in place of water : will the grain convert? Hey, I just found a source for some genuine maple sap....and was thinking: could one use maple sap in place of water .... and would it convert the malted barley...and would one even notice the difference? I know that depending upon the type of maple one can boil down 30-50 gallons so as to just get one gallon of syrup...so I suppose that 3-4 gallons of sap could equate to a cup or two of maple syrup ..... Has anyone tried this...or has anyone thoughts on the feasability of this sort of experiment? .Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:48:46 -0800 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: Your water analysis. Greg from Kentucky asked why his darker beers seemed very bitter and gave his water analysis. To whit: PH = 7.0 Hardness = 79 Calcium = 24.6 ppm Bicarbs = 41 ppm Sodium = 10.62 ppm Chloride = 23.1 ppm Sulfate = 21.7 ppm Magnesium = ? (too little to fuss with he said) Jeez that's great water! Gives you a lot of room to add stuff without screwing it up. If you read Chapter 15 in my online book, you will see that you get a residual alkalinity of 5.7 pH with a base-malt-only mash. In other words, you can hit your target mash pH with only base malt like Pilsen can. But when it comes to dark beers, you need to add some balancing bicarbonate. Either CaCO3 or NaCO3. That chapter will help you figure out how much to use. Good Brewing, John - -- John Palmer jjpalmer at realbeer.com Palmer House Brewery and Smithy http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer How To Brew - the online book http://www.howtobrew.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 12:37:12 -0500 From: Phil Wilcox <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Starkbierfest Chuck, You will need to find the Kloster Andechs (http://www.andechs.de/) in Hershing (a trian, a bus and a short walk up the mountain) south of Munich. It is the best Doppelbock the world has to offer. Hands down, no contest. Salvator at the brewery is not better than this, in fact it tasted like a bock not the doppel I was used to having here in the US. I was there in March/April of 2000 at the end of starkbier season. Can't wait to go back and spend a month in Munchen trying to find all the breweries. Forschungs Braurie is a real "local" kind of place. 3rd generation brewpub brewers speak adequate english, gave a tour and traded Homebrew for their brew--No Filtering! Excellent food. there is a new edition of The Beerdrinkers guide to munich Buy it! You can read it on the plane ride over if you stick to it. Excellent Source. Don't go to Munich with out it. Prauge: Ah Prauge, most beautiful city in europe.We stayed at the Pension Andel in the Andel section of town, directly across the subway stop from Staropomen Brewery. They had a stout online. need i say more? U-Fleku is a must stop. Beer is like an english/Czech mild very unique. Atmosphere is very german beer hall. Traveling oommpa band and drunk loud italian soccer players singing American Pie can be expected, but any brewery founded on site in 1499 is a worthwhile stop. An excellent place to hangout in. For dinner go to NOVOMESTSKY PIVOVAR its a train stop or two out of the aldstat area. What a cool subway unless your clostrophobi--the 60 degree downangle 150 yard escalators are a bit intimidating after a night of revelry. Pilzen is only 2 hours away and if you want to find the world's best pilsner Urquel is where you have to go. use their web site to arrange for a tour with a real brewer who speaks english. We got to go places the tours dont get to go see. there is no skuniness in Pilzen, and the diacytel just makes it go down SMOOTH!!!! I can't drink 10 glasses of water in night, but we had 10 rounds of pils the night we got there. two of even got up in the morning. though if your driving to Vienna, Budvar is on the way... Budapest: Try the HardRock Cafe. Are you sure you can't trade for Koln? good luck, my Hungarian uncle tells me its all Continental Pilsner Lagers... We had way more fun than should be allowed... I count the 24hours from Koln to Dusseldorf to Bamburg to Pilsen as the single best day of my life. 6 world class beers in 4 different Styles drank at their origin in 24 hours. Munich is the only other place in the world you "Might" be able to achieve this. I'll give you a hint: If you start or end at Andechs you will get a 2-fer The Helles has no equal either. and the Dunkel, it will be a damn good day if you can find a finer Dunkel than Andechts. Happy Beer Hunting. Phil Wilcox Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:53:38 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff <duckinchicago at yahoo.com> Subject: Chest Freezer Size Just wanted to take a quick survey of people that have chest freezers as to what size they have and what they think is the ideal size. I'd like to get at least a 12 cu/ft size, but I'm not sure if that's a big enough size. I'd like to be able to fit at least 2 carboys or some combination of 2 cornies and maybe one carboy. My main constraint is that it can't be too big or else I won't be able to get it in my basement. Private email is fine or whatever. Jeff Hertz Glen Ellyn, IL (Had my Renn. coordinates on a sticky note that I lost-will have to figure it out again.) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 13:20:47 -0500 From: "Robin Griller" <robin_g at ica.net> Subject: dried lager yeasts Hi all, As Dr. Pivo has some experience with saflager yeast and as it sounds like he has subjected it to some torture, perhaps he would be kind enough to let us know what his experiences have been with it (i.e. what temperature ranges it is happy in etc.). Robin Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 12:49:07 -0600 From: Greg Remake <gremake at gsbpop.uchicago.edu> Subject: WLP036 suggestions Hello all, I've got an altbier fermenting and would like to use the WLP036 Dusseldorf Alt yeast cake for another batch of something. Any suggestions for all-grain recipes that would make good use of this yeast? This yeast is reportedly the same as Wyeast 1338 Euoropean Ale. My understanding is that it finishes relatively sweet and can be fruity, although these aspects are somewhat controlable. If you've had good results using this yeast before, I'd appreciate your comments. Cheers, Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 18:18:19 -0500 From: Nate Wahl <cruiser at cros.net> Subject: Correction on Re: CO2 through door HBD'ers My sincerest apologies, but I left a word out of a previous post. The threaded part of cornies that the In/Out fittings go on are very close to male 3/8" FLARE fittings, not just plain compression fittings as stated. I hope that didn't cause too much consternation! Now I'm thinking of what to do with a hardpiped corny, since flare nuts and tubing should also fit.... Regards, Nate Wahl Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:57:50 +0100 From: Arnaud VIEZ <arnaud at viez.net> Subject: Beer in the secondary : how long? Hello happy brewers, My beer (Newcastle Brown from "Brew European beers at home" by Wheeler & Protz) is in the secondary since December 25th. The gravity was then 1015. On January 21st the gravity was 1011, on February 26th it was 1006. But it is still fermenting, bubbling at a relatively low rate. The last sample was bright, smelling good, reasonably yeasty taste. My question : can I bottle now without fearing bottle bombs, or do I wait until all activity ceases? Thank you in advance. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 19:50:06 -0500 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: Old Brown Greetings, Could someone review this recipe off of the Recipator Database and tell = me what they think. I am looking for the certain sourness and can it be = acheived by souring part of the mash? I hestitate to introduce bacteria = (on purose) into my brewery! Also would raspberries work as well as = cherries. We have a hard time finding sour cherries around here! I tried to contact the author of the recipe, but his email bounced. Here = is the link to the recipe. http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator?group=3D27&item=3D314 Regards, David Craft Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:06:09 -0500 From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net> Subject: Fermentation On Wed, 27 Feb 2002 00:10:07 -0500, in rec.crafts.brewing you wrote: Gary Snyder asked: >I am new to home brewing and have a question about fermentation. I >am in the process of making an ale with all fuggles hops. My fermentation >process started within 3 hours and within 6 hours I had a pretty rapid >fermentation. This only lasted about 30 hours then all activity stopped. >Is this alright? The speed of fermentation depends on the temperature of the wort and the type of yeast, but I've had Munton's dry yeast run about that fast if the temperature was close to 70F, and produce a pretty good ale. - --- [Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] Al - rukbat at optonline dot net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 19:56:21 -0600 From: "Fred Scheer" <fhopheads at msn.com> Subject: RADLER Radler is mostly made with "LIMONADE", which is either 7 UP or a German locally produced LIMO, based on lemons and lots of sugar and high carbonated. LIMONADE has ~ 5.5 - 6 g CO2. So, if you want a German Radler drink, 7 UP or Sprite will do. Good Luck Fred Scheer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:13:28 -0600 From: "Fred Scheer" <fhopheads at msn.com> Subject: WEIZEN I'm not sure if the bottle conditioning yeast is the same as the PRIMARY fermentation yeast in the case of Schneider Weisse. We have to think as to the job the yeast has to perform: PRIMARY FERMENTATION vs. BOTTLE CONDITIONING of weizen bier. While I was in Frankenmuth, MI (about 50 miles north of Renner) I analyzed lots of the German Weizen beers for the yeast in the bottle. With ERDINGER, for example, I found it was a bottom-fermented yeast, to be exactly it was the old 34/70 strain I found. With the other Weizens which I analyzed, mostly I found a mixture of yeasts, sometimes Bottom and Top fermenting yeast mixed together. See ya, Fred Scheer Return to table of contents
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