HOMEBREW Digest #3885 Sat 09 March 2002

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  Opportunity for Dan Listermann (Pat Casey)
  Blocked Bazooka screens (Pat Casey)
  The Jethro Gump Report-Servo ("Rob Moline")
  Bitter Beer with Safale (Tony Barnsley)
  Screen usage ("Peter Fantasia")
  Kettle screens ("Michael Maag")
  Re: Converting Extract Recipes to All Grain ("Larry Bristol")
  Utopias MMII (Alan Monaghan)
  Conversion perversion (Pat Babcock)
  Grain bed depth and Gott cooler ("Brian Schar")
  Converting Extract Recipes to All Grain (LJ Vitt)
  Re: Converting Extract Recipes to All Grain ("Drew Avis")
  re: SS Weld Finishing and Steam Sterilization (theory and practic ("Hall, Kevin")
  Mead (Chuck Doucette)
  More Lists ("Mark Ellis")
  3068 yeast ("D. Clark")

* * Drunk Monk Challenge Entry Deadline is 3/16/02! * http://www.sgu.net/ukg/dmc/ for more information * * Maltose Falcons 2002 Mayfaire Competition * Entries accepted 4/1/02 - 4/11/02 * http://www.maltosefalcons.com for details * * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * MCAB-IV - April 12-13, 2002 - Cleveland Ohio * See http://www.hbd.org/mcab for more info * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 17:03:05 +1100 From: Pat Casey <patcasey at iprimus.com.au> Subject: Opportunity for Dan Listermann Dr Pivo touches on the vile and seedy world of the yeast abuser, and someone else mentions wanting to clone a Victoria Bitter. There is a clear opportunity here for Dan: Phil's Phlogger, the perfect device for dealing with brewing deviants and miscreants. It would probably also prove popular in Townsville where they enjoy this sort of thing anyway. Pat Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 17:07:41 +1100 From: Pat Casey <patcasey at iprimus.com.au> Subject: Blocked Bazooka screens I've not seen a Bazooka screen, nor read an exact description of one. But from what I can gather and judging from the complaints, maybe this will help: I use a 15" length of 3/4" SS braid, aka "The Slug" in my 12" diameter kettle and all my hopping schedules include 15 to 30 gram of whole hops, either loose or as a plug. Typically there'll be another 60 to 80 gram of pellets, plus 1/3 tab of Whirlfloc - for 20 litres into the fermenter. After the boil I whirlpool, let it all sit for 15 to 20 minutes then run off. The whole hops sink to the bottom with the pellet debris and trub on top. The whole hops sitting on top of the braid make for a very effective screen and give a very clear run off. Pat Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 00:05:50 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report-Servo >From: Alan Meeker <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> >Subject: Tom Servo > >Concerning Servomyces, Rob Moline posted: ><SNIP> >One word of caution here, <SNIP> > -Alan Meeker Alan, I will personally provide you with a copy of a videotape (DVD, if you prefer.) of Keith Vila of Coors, some years ago at a conference, where he stated that research at Coors, expected to find an upward limit for zinc...was unable to....as far as the yeast were concerned. Once you evaluate this presentation, I look forward to your insights. I will send the London in the same packet. Further, Chris White recently wrote in the New Brewer regarding Servo..have you seen that? If not, I will send a copy. Cheers! Rob Jethro Gump "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" New Address- jethrogump at mchsi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 09:23:23 -0000 From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley at blackpool.gov.uk> Subject: Bitter Beer with Safale Darrell has had problems with a really bitter beer where he reused Safale Yeast > Hops were: 1 0z Cascade at 60 > 1 oz Fuggles at 30 > same at 15, with .5 oz Cascade... > Perhaps too much hops? No I don't think so > It tastes REALLY bitter...can it be the reused Safale yeast, I think you have hit the nail on the head. I've had a really bitter beer using Safale, when I commented on it on UK (Craft) Homebrew, others reported the same thing. The common factors appeared to be sulphate rich liquors (Naturally or via the addition of gypsum), in combination with certain varieties of hops. In mine and at least one other Target was the culprit. The bitterness does fade with time which suggests that the suspended yeast also has some effect. My beer was certainly clear but running some through a 1 micron (absolute) filter, dropped the bitterness to a more 'acceptable' level Hope this helps - -- Wassail! The Scurrilous Aleman (ICQ 46254361) Schwarzbad Lager Brauerei, Blackpool, Lancs, UK Rennerian Coordinates (I'm Not Lost! I'm A Man, I don't ask for directions) This message has been scanned by F-Secure Anti-Virus for Microsoft Exchange as part of the Council's e-mail and internet policy. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 08:01:55 -0500 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: Screen usage Mike and Paul wrote about screening pellet hops out of the wort. I use a home made version of the bazooka/easy masher. When using small amounts of pellets had no problem .It's when using large amounts that I ran into problems. I was talking wiyh Cowan the Beerbarian on the Brew Rat Chat and he had a good suggestion which I've since used twice successfully. Buy a large (9" by 5" minimum, bigger the better) nylon straining bag and suspend it on a string or wire in the kettle. Pull it out and add hops for each addition. Works great and as an added benefit you can remove hops before cooling. Cheers Pete Fantasia NJ AKA Madman on the chat Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 08:07:37 -0500 From: "Michael Maag" <MichaelMaag at doli.state.va.us> Subject: Kettle screens "Rogers, Mike" <mike.rogers at eds.com> is having problems with his Bazooka screen clogging from pellet hops. I use EasyMasher/SureScreens in my kettle, and the important things to remember are: Do not use Irish Moss, and let the wort settle for at least 40 min. (after chilling if an immersion chiller is used). If the pellet particles are suspended in the wort, they will flow into, and clog, the screen. It helps to have at least an ounce of flower/plug hops in the boil, but I have omitted them with success. However, I always have my racking cane and hose on stand-by 8*) Hope this helps, Mike Maag, Shenandoah Valley Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 07:39:29 -0600 From: "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> Subject: Re: Converting Extract Recipes to All Grain On Fri, 8 Mar 2002 00:17:19 -0500, "Jeff Storm" <stormyjeff at lycos.com> wrote: >Anyway, I am trying to figure out how to convert extract recipes >to all grain. Is there any conversion method to change the lbs >of extract to pounds of grain? Jeff, the answer is both simple and not. Here is the simple part: You need 1.25 pounds of pale malt for each 1.00 pounds of plain, unhopped, light liquid malt extract (5lbs to 4lbs); you need 1.67 pounds of pale malt for each 1.00 pounds of plain, unhopped, light dry malt extract (5lbs to 3lbs). The problem is that "plain, unhopped, light liquid/dry malt extract" is not always the same from one recipe to the next. If the recipe is for a lager, for example, then you would probably want to use pilsner malt instead of pale malt. And if the recipe calls for a particular brand of extract, then there may be something unique about the way in which that malt is produced that you would need to know. Making malt extract is [essentially] the same process as mashing/sparging, so there can be a lot of variations in the process from one brand to the next. You can probably replicate that in your all-grain recipe, but you need to know what those variations are in order to do so. And many recipes do not use "plain, unhopped, light liquid/dry malt extract" at all. What if the recipe uses "dark malt extract" or something? As an example, a couple of weeks ago, someone asked for an all-grain recipe for Shiner Bock, a regional brewery located in Shiner, Texas. I had a good clone recipe, but it happened to be based on "Old Bavarian Munich Blend" malt extract. It is not too hard to guess that this is a blend of pale malt (pilsner malt?) with Munich malt, but in what proportions? The good news is that all it takes is a little research in these cases ("ask and it shall be answered unto you"), and you can probably find out. [I was informed that Old Bavarian Munich Blend is a 50/50 blend of pale malt and Munich malt. Dark malt extract is probably made from pale malt and some dark crystal malt.] And it gets even worse when the recipe calls for hopped extract. Let's just ignore this problem and maybe it will go away. <grin> But, in truth, these can be converted also, either by more research, or by trial-and-error. Converting extract recipes to all-grain is just as simple as converting all-grain recipes to extract! [quotable!] Larry Bristol Bellville, TX http://www.doubleluck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 08:40:55 -0500 From: Alan Monaghan <AlanM at Gardnerweb.com> Subject: Utopias MMII Ok, now that we have heard of this rare beer, I, living in Cincinnati Ohio can't get it. If anyone in the 48 states hears this plea, I would love to arrange getting a bottle for my collection (full that is) *grin*. If anyone out there has access to and would be willing to help me with this, please respond via private email. I would be most appreciative of any help offered. Be like water my friend ... Alan G. Monaghan MCSE+I - Win4.0; MCSE - Win2k BJCP # C0389 (Recognized) Gardner Publications, Inc. Internet Administrator * Phone 1-513-527-8867 * Fax 1-513-527-8801 * Car 1-513-520-6866 * Cell 1-513-378-0919 * E-mail AlanM at Gardnerweb.com <mailto:AlanM at Gardnerweb.com> 5 URL http://Bullwinkle.GardnerWeb.Com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 11:25:55 -0500 (EST) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Conversion perversion Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager.... Jeff Storm implores: >Anyway, I am trying to figure out how to convert extract recipes >to all grain. Is there any conversion method to change the lbs >of extract to pounds of grain? The methods are fairly straightforward, and can be handled on a "rule of thumb basis" to get you close. To be more accurate requires you to know a tad about the extracts involved, and a tad about your brewery. The latter is the easier thing to determine. For your brewery, you need to determine your efficiency. Effectively, this amounts to determing how many gravity points you obtain by mashing each pound of any particular grain using whatever your typical mash schedule happens to be. Other methods require that you understand the evaporation rate and "kettle or system losses"as well. And for the overall recipe, you need to understand the typical hop utilization in your boil kettle, characteristics of hops and specialty grains, etc. This data will allow you to determine an "equivalent wort" to that produced by the extract recipes. For the extracts, it'd be great to know what they were hopped with (if hopped) and to what level of IBUs. The grain bill, by percentage of total, would be a vast help, too. Unfortunately, this can be difficult to ascertain. More easily determined is the gravity points yielded by adding one pound of the extract to one gallon of water. This number can be used to compare to the efficiency of your mash to determine equivalence. This is by no means an exact science. There is natural variability in wort production at both the extract brewer's establishment and in your own. The same is true if you are able to ascertain the hop data and grain bill for the extract. You'll never "hit it" exactly. That said, don't lose faith! I've made some pretty durned fine brews by "converting" from extracts and capitalizing on experience - particularly, the experience of OTHERS! Once you've determined your extraction rate and or efficiency, you're ready to proceed. Method One 1) Review the recipe for pounds of extract. DME scales at a higher rate than LME, typically. As a rule of thum, I'll use 1.038 for LME and 1.045 for DME. You can measure the contribution by adding one pound of your extract to one gallon of water, too, if you prefer. Keep in mind, though, the DME is agorascopic - it quickly absorbs moisture from the air. This characteristc adds to the variability you'll encounter in this method, but weight is still a superior measure to volume in this case. 2) Multiply the number of pounds of extract by the points contribution (multiply the specific gravity of one pound of extract in one gallon of water by 1000, then subtract 1000 to get the contribution. If we're using LME, and our rule of thumb, the contribution is 1.045*1000-1000=45 If we used three pounds of it, the calculation required by this step is 45*3=135) 3) Divide the resulting number by the points one pound of malt mashed in your system will yield (your extraction). The result is the number of pounds of grain you'll need. (if you get 35 points form a pound of grain, this is 135/35=3.9 lbs) 4) Subtract the specialty grains (except roasted barley or black malt) you require from this total. The result is your base malt amount. Method Two 1) Review the recipe for expected OG and final volume from the boil kettle (ie, recipe claims to make five gallons at 1.035) 2) Multiply the expect gravity by 1000, subtract 1000, multiply by the sum of the expected volume plus your expected system losses (that left behind in the boil kettle, chillers, etc) 3) Divide the resulting number by the points one pound of malt mashed in your system will yield. The result is the number of pounds of grain you'll need. 4) Subtract the specialty grains (except roasted barley or black malt) you require from this total. The result is your base malt amount. The fun part is finding the right balance of specialty grains to make the wort profile, and I can offer few guidelines here. In general, as indicated above, I don't count heavily roasted malts into my OG calculation. The yield from these grains is typically trivial since all the sugars are rendered to carbon. I've even gone so far as to add the dark grains at mashout with no appreciable degradation to the OG (but a notably less acrid character to the resulting beer, and the color I was looking for). Sometimes a recipe makes it easy and provides what they "steeped". First time out with a recipe like this, I'll use the quantity they used, deducting it from the base malt quantity. If I don't like the results, I'll tweak in the next iteration. A good method fro determining the grain bill is to review recipes for similar beers already in the correct format. Did they use honey malt? Crystal? Caramunich? How much did they use. What was the effect (if notes are provided, or if you have sampled the resulting beer). Many hav spent batch after batch adding a little more (or less) of one ingredient until they understood its impact. Seek their notes. Hops, gruit, etc are another game altogether, with a higher demon of variability and the ignoble demon of vagary (few record enough pertinent information regarding the hops). Best bet here is to espouse a methodology for bittering (Garetz, Tinseth or Rager) and STICK with it. Run any recipe you encounter through your calculation to determine if their claimed (if they even bothered to claim any) hopping rates are reasonable to the data they've provided and to your experience. Seek out the notes of those who have played similar "what does THIS do" experimentation with hops. And use published recipes and guideline to determne what characteristics you are after, and which ho(s) provide them. And, above all, have FUN! - -- - God bless America! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock [18, 92.1] Rennerian "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 09:11:11 -0800 From: "Brian Schar" <schar at vimedical.com> Subject: Grain bed depth and Gott cooler I am thinking of leaping headlong into all-grain brewing after ten years or so of partial mashing. I am leaning toward the 10-gallon Gott cooler as my mash tun, based on a lot of comments I have read here on HBD and elsewhere, and on discussions with other homebrewers. However, I am rethinking this in light of an article in the recent Zymurgy that discusses 10 ways to prevent stuck mashes. The author suggests that the grain bed should be no more than 4 inches deep, and in no event more than 8 inches deep. However, in a Gott cooler, I can't believe I could get enough grain in there to make 5 gallons of beer (much less 10 gallons) and still maintain a grain bed under 8 inches in depth. Is the author correct? Or overly conservative? How deep is your grain piled in the Gott cooler mash tun? Does it really matter? I am curious to get some feedback on this before I commit to a cooler. Brian Schar Menlo Park, California Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 09:09:30 -0800 (PST) From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> Subject: Converting Extract Recipes to All Grain In HBD#3884, Jeff Storm asked about converting extract recipes to ll grain... >Anyway, I am trying to figure out how to convert extract recipes >to all grain. Is there any conversion method to change the lbs >of extract to pounds of grain? Jeff, I start with these figures for extract per lb per of grain or extract. pale malt 30 (also pilsner malt, munich, wheat, vienna) Crystal malts 25 -- (also roasted malts) liquid malt extract 35 dry malt extract 45 Any grain in the original recipe can stay in the recipe. Multiply number of lbs extract by the number above. 6.6 lbs pale ale malt extract * 35 = 231 Divide by the number above Looking for pale ale malt 231/30 = 7.7 lbs This is a very simple example. If you are replacing amber or dark extract, you need some portion to colored malt - crystal, or some sort of roast. The style of beer would influence my choice here. If you're making a stout, replace 6.6 lbs of dark extract with some pale ale malt and some roasted barley. 6.6 * 35 =231 >From last recipes, I believe 1 lb of roasted barly is enough. 1 * 25 = 25 You need enough pale malt added to the roasted barley to make a total of 231. #Pale * 30 + 1*25 = 231 subtract 25 #Pale *30 = 206 Divide by 30 #Pale = 6.87 lbs How do you measure .87 lbs -- Convert to ounces .87 * 16 = 13.92 oz. Close enough to 14 oz Hopped extract - you have no idea what hops are added to that extract. You can only guess. Is this enough? Is the math too hard? If this level of math is too hard, then I suggest getting a program like suds or promash. Myself - I use a lotus 1-2-3 spread sheet - Leo Vitt Rochester, MN Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 14:01:13 -0500 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Converting Extract Recipes to All Grain Jeff Storm asks about converting extract recipes to all-grain. Jeff, I get asked to include this feature in StrangeBrew all the time (although more commonly it's to convert all-grain recipes to extract). Here's the approach I'd suggest: 1) Enter your extract recipe into one of the several recipe formulation programs out there. 2) Create a new all-grain recipe in the same software. Add the same specialty malts (crystal, roast malts, etc), hops, and yeast as in your source recipe. 3) Add an appropriate base malt in increments until the OG of your new recipe is the same as the old recipe. By appropriate, I mean if you're brewing a British-style beer, use a British pale malt. If you're brewing a continental lager, use a continental pils malt. And so on. 4) Now adjust the specialty malts so that the colour of the two recipes matches. 5) Your mash schedule is going to depend on your base malts and the style you're brewing. 6) Finally, check that the recipe conforms to the style you're trying to brew (if this is important to you). Hope this helps! Drew Avis ~ http://www.strangebrew.ca One thing that makes me believe in UFOs is, sometimes I lose stuff. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 14:34:25 -0500 From: "Hall, Kevin" <Kevin_Hall at bausch.com> Subject: re: SS Weld Finishing and Steam Sterilization (theory and practic Beerlings (to borrow a phrase), Mark Sedam wrote in HBD 3875: <<What can I do to smooth out the welds and approach "sanitary welding" status. I have a Dremel, but that's about it.>> As The Honorable John Palmer indicated in his earlier reply, your Dremel will eventually do the job. When that unit dies, you might want to consider acquiring an electric die grinder. These are heavier duty (therefore a bit more expensive) tools intended for the removal of metal in the process of cutting and polishing molds or welds. They can also be similarly sized to Dremels, so if you have a significant investment in cutting tools, there are collets that you can get to fit them to the die grinder. Use of good TIG welding techniques will reduce the chances of too much bubbling or rough spots in the finished weld in the first place. The grinding smooth of welds in a piping system reduces the chance for soil to accumulate, thus allowing a foothold for the bad guys to get started. Not to mention, the additional metal ion (iron, nickel, chromium, molybdenum, etc.) contributions from the oxidized metal which might effect taste and yeast growth. He is also good in recommending the use of citric acid cleaner for passivating the surface when complete. Be sure to remove all filings when your done, as the work hardened stainless steel bits will rust quite quick. Regarding the recent threads on using moist heat for sterilizing the interior of vessels. I would be loath to recommend this unless you are experienced in the use of steam and its proper handling. The pressure inside of a sealed vessel can rise quickly, so quickly that you may not be able to relieve fast enough to prevent a rupture. This is especially true when using a direct fire, such as the jet propane burners employed by most homebrewers. A Sanke keg, while much heavier in construction than a Corny, is not intended or designed for pressurization through direct application of heat. A Cornelius keg is also not recommended for use with heating, even after the rubber bases are removed. Sterilization, or even 'sanitization', is not effected unless there is sufficient level of heat exposure maintained to a sufficient period of time. What this means is that unless the temperature reaches a minimum of 121C (250F), you cannot claim a sterile process. Now this is predicated on a couple things: a requirement for 12 log reduction of a heat resistant theoretical bioburden, even heat distribution within the system, minimum exposure time to sterilizing conditions, and a saturated moisture environment. These are the requirements when you are making a sterile solution for use in drugs or preparing food. This is why your home canning pressure cooker is effective: the inside of the vessel reaches 20 psig, which under saturated steam conditions is roughly 124C (255F) (that's why 20 psig is the magic number). The other reason it is effective is that the temperature within the vessel is even; no cold spots. Once the pressure cooker's gauge reads the proper pressure, or the poppet valve starts popping, you would wait a period of time to fully cook the canned goodies inside (this is the time factor). A previous post spoke about putting a small amount of water into a Sanke and heating with the lid on. You may not have any fermentation issues with this technique, but you still have not sterilized the interior of the keg. The reason is that the temperature at the top of the keg is probably not sufficient to kill resistant microbes. Now there is a silver lining here. *Most* microbes encountered in the wild are not thermophiles (heat resistant), so raising the temperature above their inactivation temperature is sufficient. Pseudomonas aeruginosa, typical water borne bug, is inactivated around 65C (150F), but this one is relatively wimpy. Generally speaking, 85C (185F) should be good to get rid of the bulk of your nasties. The thing to keep in mind here is not complete kill, but reduction of bioburden; you are going to inoculate the wort with a hopefully healthy large quantity of microbes in the form of yeast anyway. That monoculture will choke off any other competing small colony. The things to keep in mind for good equipment sanitization are *clean* and *dry*. If your equipment is put away scrupulously clean after adequate air drying, then the chances of contamination are significantly reduced. Prior to use, rinse with hot water, and your good to go. (Contrary to some, there are relatively few bugs, both yeast and microbes, in the air. The bulk of microbial contamination comes from water. True, spores can float in the air, but they usually do not culture while floating. They require a surface and water to replicate.) This got a bit rambly, sorry. Just a few thoughts to throw onto the fire. Thank you for your patience, Kevin Hall Lilac Ridge (Home) Brewing Co. Rochester, NY EMAIL DISCLAIMER Please Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential, protected from disclosure, and/or intended only for the use of the individual or entity named above. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, distribution, copying or other dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you received this communication in error, please immediately reply to the sender, delete the message and destroy all copies of it. Thank You Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 13:53:34 -0800 (PST) From: Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61 at yahoo.com> Subject: Mead So, I put together some honey mead this week (Tuesday). The problem is, I see no activity in the fermenter. I used about 3lbs. of clover honey, one teaspoon (~23cc dry) yeast nutrient and filled with water to one gallon. Heated the mixture to 180F for 20 mins. then cooled to approx. 70F (my thermometer only goes down to 75). I then transfered to a sanitized one gal. glass jug, pitched the yeast (Wyeast 3184 Sweet Mead yeast). Yes, I know, I should have used a starter. But I had a tube of yeast intended for 5 gallons, Surely this would be enough. Well, now for the question: What should I do with this? is it salvageable? Should I add more nutrient? Should I just sanitize a rod and stir? Help! Chuck Doucette O'Fallon, IL. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 13:05:42 +1100 From: "Mark Ellis" <mark at glacierdesign.net> Subject: More Lists Hi All, If any of you are looking for some variety etc, I have started up a private site with discussion lists ( particularly in response to a lot of people claiming that a lot of Spam is coming through from yahoo sources and other free list sites etc ). The web site isn't functional yet but the lists are. Anyways the list of digest lists are as follows; Fruit Winemakers Winemakers Brewery Cidermakers Meadmakers Cheesemakers Smallgoods Bakery If interested in joining go to www.artisansrus.com for subscription link. Cheers Mark E. in Oz Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 23:15:54 -0500 From: "D. Clark" <clark at capital.net> Subject: 3068 yeast Hi gang, Is anyone using the 3068 Weihenstephan yeast from Wyeast able to keep those delicious clove and banana flavors for more than two batches? I have used a couple of smack packs now, and the flavors I am after fade with the second or third batch. My water is very hard, so I boil all of my mash and sparge water on the woodstove for a while to precipitate out some of the calcium. It may not make much of a difference, but it makes me feel better. I usually save a quart of slurry from the primary to restart my next batch. I'll pitch a big starter and ferment at about 70 degrees, but I seem to lose the flavor profile I am after. Is there another yeast that I could try to get a similar beer? Will yeast nutrient in my starter help? I really like this style. but I'm too darn cheap to want to spend 5 bucks for a yeast pack every time I brew. Maybe I could move up to 10 gallon batches.........I better look for another fridge. Dave Clark Eagle Bridge, New York Return to table of contents
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