HOMEBREW Digest #3946 Tue 21 May 2002

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  Siebel Reply - First Wort Hopping ("Kirk Annand")
  Yeast for Belgian Strong Ale (RBoland)
  sour beer and bottling ("David Craft")
  Hotmail at work (TOLLEY Matthew)
  End of Siebel Week ("Rob Moline")
  Golden Pride / Vintage Ale ... Malt Selector ("Leppihalme, Miikkali")
  Black ale update & a question about gravity ("Leppihalme, Miikkali")
  COC-IPA Results???????? ("H. Dowda")
  re: HSA / staling experiment (Paul Kensler)
  Golden Monkey Tripel (Jim Busch)
  re: Dry hopping with Tettnang or Hallertauer (Paul Kensler)
  RE: Hop Bag Use ("Dave Howell")
  Quick questions ("Bates, Floyd SEPCO")
  Seems to be internet security settings... ("James Sploonta")
  Keg insulation - long... ("Gary Smith")
  Tomato Sauce, Seibel HSA ("Dave Burley")
  South FL Suppliers ("Greg Smith")
  IPA Club-Only Comp ("Gary Glass")
  Zymurgy Magazine Rubbermaid Bulkhead Plans ("doug klon")
  We have arrived! ("David Craft")
  Wort Boiling ("Partner")
  Siebel Reply - George Fix Mashing Procedure ("Kirk Annand")
  Siebel Reply - Oak Cask ("Kirk Annand")
  Siebel Reply - Post-Boil Hop Effects ("Kirk Annand")
  CAPS ("Kirk Annand")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 12:17:03 -0700 From: "Kirk Annand" <kirk.annand at ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Siebel Reply - First Wort Hopping Eric: Please see my response to a hop isomerization question on HBD 3943 (May 17) which deals with a part of your question. In what I call the 'three hop addition schedule' the first hopping goes in just at the start of the boil to help lower wort surface tension and reduce the chance of over-boiling. The hops used in this are bittering hops. (One Note: It is difficult to precisely differentiate between aroma, flavoring and bittering hop character since they will all contribute to a greater or lesser extent towards the final taste and aroma of the beer.) The FWH schedule that you mention looks like a variation of this 'classic' hop addition schedule. I see no harm or advantage from it. Some brewers sre concerned about removing some 'vegetable matter' taste from their hops but I have never seem any scientific investigation to back this fear up. There are many ways to add hops, as I mention in the other response, so don't be afraid to experiment. Kirk Annand, S.I.T.. Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 01:31:27 -0400 From: "Eric R. Lande" <landeservices at juno.com> Subject: Seibel Week Thanks for this opportunity and maybe I can get a straight answer on this: My question is about First Wort Hopping. This sounds like a good idea, but questions keep popping up that make me hesitant to try it. I've read that when doing FWH that you should add 1/3 of your hop bill to the kettle as you are laudering. Is this the bittering, flavoring or aroma hops or some combination? If it is the aroma hops, do I need to add more at the end of the boil to account for the loss of the volatile oils during the boil? If it is all three, should the total hopping rate be reduced to account for the increased bitterness extracted from the greater amount of hops boiled for the full boil? Any other info that could put my mind at ease about FWH would be appreciated. Also, is FWH a superior concept or is it just something different that is on a par with the more common hopping schedule? Thanks in advance. Eric Lande Doylestown, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 23:02:08 EDT From: RBoland at aol.com Subject: Yeast for Belgian Strong Ale Peter Ensminger is looking for the right yeast for his Belgian Strong and wants to get that earthy, musty character. He was leaning toward Wyeast 1214. I'm not familiar with the White labs yeasts, but agree with his selection of 1214. The Trappist and Abby yeasts are good for Dubbles and Tripels, but I consider their flavor too strong and inappropriate for a Strong Ale. By the way, I don't believe that musty, earthy flavor is a typical characteristic of Belgian yeasts, or the beers in Belgium. It appears to me (and others) to be a flavor contributed by aging in contact with natural corks. Try a side by side tasting of capped and corked Duvel or Jenlain; my experience is that the capped beers don't exhibit the damp basement character. I happen to enjoy it and was surprised that I rarely tasted it in Belgium. Bob Boland St. Louis Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 00:46:14 -0400 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: sour beer and bottling Greetings, I made a sour brown ale back in March and inoculated it with pedicoccus in early April. I had activity in the airlock up until May 1st. I would like to go ahead and bottle this beer in the next few weeks. It is clear and I need the Carboy for another batch. I understand that Ped will not give off CO2, so I do not have to worry about bombs. Is there any reason I cannot bottle now? I realize this beer needs to age, why not in the bottle? Regards, David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 14:50:55 +1000 From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au> Subject: Hotmail at work >I apologize for my silence! For some reason, Hotmail has been not allowing >me to log in (from work, where my Kleinerisms are). Just tried from home, >and it seems to be OK Sounds like your office uses SmartFilter (http://www.smartfilter.com). They recently updated their 'prohibited sites' list to include a 'Webmail' category, and hotmail.com is now a verboten site. Cheers ...Matt... Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 01:38:45 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: End of Siebel Week End of Siebel Week Brewers, we have come to the end of Siebel Week, effective 5.17.02 for the last posted question in HBD 3944. (3945 shows nothing before the deadline hour.) There are other responses from Siebel yet to come and any follow up's generated by past Siebel Responses will be handled as seen fit by the staff of Siebel and Lallemand. My great respect and thanks go to those who have helped to make this event possible, not only those of you from Siebel and Lallemand, but also those amateur and professional brewers that set the stage for the expert's replies. I know I learned more about beer! at this point I would like to ask one more favor of anyone who has benefited from this event, whether you asked and received a reply, or if you just learned something from this effort.....Please send a message to SiebelWeek_Thanks at mchsi.com an address set up solely for this purpose. With your message, I would appreciate if you would indicate whether you are a professional or an amateur. I will be forwarding these along to our host experts, without your e-mail addresses, as a way of showing them the impact of their generosity. No databases will be built, nor will your info or message be collected for any other purpose. (But, it might help get them again next year?...maybe for 2 weeks??!) Again, I thank you all, and look forward to the rest of the Siebel Responses! Cheers! Jethro Gump "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:48:16 +0300 From: "Leppihalme, Miikkali" <leppihalme at quartal.com> Subject: Golden Pride / Vintage Ale ... Malt Selector Pete Czerpak writes about Fuller's Golden Pride: > Its a tasty brew for sure and bottled in 20 oz bottles. It used to be bottled in 0.33 liter (~11 fl oz) bottles. Just this spring it appeared to my local pubs in 0.5 liter (~17 fl oz) bottles. I haven't seen 20 oz bottles around. Could be that they have different bottle sizes for export, though. 0.5 liters is the most common bottle size in Finland, because that's the size of a Finnish pint. Rick writes about Fuller's Golden Pride and Fuller's Vintage Ale: > During a tour of Fuller's brewery back in 1997, my > guide, knowing I was a homebrewer, gave me a bunch of > information that wasn't a standard part of the tour. > This included a press release for 1997 Vintage Ale. > It sounds a lot like the Golden Pride so I thought I'd > share it with everyone. The two may sound alike but certainly look and taste different. GP is deep amber, VA is downright black. GP has caramel sweet and alcoholic flavors, a typical English barleywine, while VA is not sweet at all and not alcohol-tasting. VA has bucketloads of more hoppy character to it than does GP. On a sidenote, one of my favorite pubs in Helsinki ran out of VA 1997 only a few days ago. They still have some bottles of the 1998 batch, yummy! (The "fresh" batch of 2000 is more widely available now. Very, very good.) Thank you, Rick, for sharing the Vintage Ale recipe! Fuller's VA is one of my favorite ales (along with Fuller's ESB and 1845) and it was really interesting to see the recipe. - -------------------------------- To a different topic. Lahden Polttimo is a Finnish malting company. They have a little calculator program on their web pages called the Malt Selector. It's designed to help brewers choose malts and and plan their mashing program. Any comments from the all-grain brewers of HBD? Here's the link: Malt Selector http://www.lahdenpolttimo.fi/Products/maltselector.html - Miikkali Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 11:23:38 +0300 From: "Leppihalme, Miikkali" <leppihalme at quartal.com> Subject: Black ale update & a question about gravity As I earlier reported on the HBD, I started my first ale 1,5 weeks ago. It's a black ale from a kit, with added Cascade hops for aroma. I was worried because the airlock never started bubbling. It came out that the lid of the fermenting bucket is leaking. I received lots of advice in private email and I wish to thank Bob Sheck, Jay Pfaffman, Gavin Scarman, John Adsit, Will Randle and Jay J. Schneiderman for their generosity and willingness to help. On Saturday, after 9 days of fermenting, I opened the lid, took some of the wort (with a sanitized spoon) to a glass and measured the wort's specific gravity. Flavor: First and foremost - *whew!* - it was not spoiled as I had feared. It tasted fresh! So the fermentation had started allright. The wort tasted like a young English real ale, something like a yeasty ESB (the real ale version, not the bottled one) but darker, with hints of mead and a yummy hop aroma (not at all too much, John!). A smile of relief took over my face as I said to myself: "This is going to be a very good beer if the conditioning phase goes all right." Gravity: The meter said 1.020 (wort temp was around +20C, +68F) after nine whole days after pitching the yeast. This is a Black ale and the OG was 1.048. Is this slow a fermentation normal? The room temp has been roughly between 22C (71.5F) during daytime and 19C (66F) at night. I anticipated a gravity of something like 1.010 or even lower by this time. Should I do something about this? I plan to bottle on Wednesday or Thursday, at which point the beer has been fermenting for 13 or 14 days. If the gravity is still way over 1.010 on Wednesday, should I wait before bottling? - Miikkali Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 06:10:19 -0700 (PDT) From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com> Subject: COC-IPA Results???????? Anyone heard the IPA results? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 06:53:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul Kensler <paul_kensler at yahoo.com> Subject: re: HSA / staling experiment For what its worth, I did perform an accelerated staling experiment on an American pale ale once... OK, it was entirely accidental but it was still interesting to see what happened. Several bottles were left at 80F for 2-3 days shortly (within 1 week) of bottling. Within a month, you'd swear they were a different beer than the non-staled bottles and keg. The "control" was a nice dark gold color - no reddish tint. Think of the color of Sierra Nevada pale ale. The staled bottles were clearly amber in color - and not pale amber mind you, but a nice reddish amber color. Hop bitterness seemed higher and harsher, there were noticeable sweet caramel / honey flavors, and nearly all of the fresh hop flavor and aroma were gone. Like I said, you'd swear they were two different beers. It was amazing to note the flavor, aroma and (most surprising for me) COLOR changes that occured after minimal exposure to heat and in such a short amount of time. What was also interesting was the lack of "classic" oxidation characteristics - no sherry, no paper, no cardboard. It could almost have passed for just being a poorly-formulated beer. I'd generally say that my beers do not suffer from oxidation problems - at least not in the amount of time it takes for my family, friends and I to drink them! But it was well worth the loss of a couple bottles to see what "can" happen to beer over time and/or in poor storage conditions. And I have to admit, it made me a better beer judge and a better critic of my own beer. Will I change any of my mashing, fermenting, or packaging procedures? No. I'll just be sure not to leave my homebrew sitting at 80F again! Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, May 20 2002 9:56:00 GMT-0400 From: Jim Busch <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Golden Monkey Tripel The yeast was brought back from Belgium by Phil Seitz and myself in the early 90s. Its not available commercially, but try the White Labs strains as they work well too. We open ferment in special hybrid tanks. These 50 BBL fermenters have a shallow dish bottom and a manway above the wort line so you can skim and harvest. 1-1 aspect ratio is important with this yeast strain. High temps are also critical but this varies with each strain. Be sure to get 20% of your fermentables from sugar too. Cheers! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 07:02:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul Kensler <paul_kensler at yahoo.com> Subject: re: Dry hopping with Tettnang or Hallertauer Drew, Try it and see how you like it. Personally, I strongly prefer dry hopping with Cascade, Goldings or the like - American or English aroma varieties. The last time I dry hopped with German hops (my notes are at home, but I think they were Tett.), I thought the beer was a little too "grassy" and peppery. Not my favorite, but certainly drinkable and it went pretty fast at the party I brought it to. Bottom line is, you may love it or you may hate it - but I doubt you'll ruin it! Give it a shot. Hope this helps, Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 07:05:16 -0700 From: "Dave Howell" <djhowell at cableaz.com> Subject: RE: Hop Bag Use "Paul Stutzman" <Paul.Stutzman at airborne.com> writes in re: Hop Bag Use ... I am frequently disappointed in the amount bitterness in my final product. Do you sparge or squeeze your hops out? I used do this for Saaz in Czech pils. I stopped using bags, and the Saaz nose (aroma) went away :( Next czech pils I brew, I'm going back to leaf hops in a bag, and squeezing them out after the boil (before the CFC), just to restore the nose... I'd never missed on my hopping target (this is subjective) doing that, and the risk of mistake re-hopping after boil-over (if you are in danger of boil-overs) is small. I've also never noticed any other side effect by doing this. It's just that pellets are cheaper by the bucket. But, this year, my vines should produce some cones... Dave Howell THESE are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; but he that stands it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph. What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives every thing its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as FREEDOM should not be highly rated. -- Thomas Paine, "The Crisis No. 1" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:17:06 -0500 From: "Bates, Floyd SEPCO" <floyd.bates at shell.com> Subject: Quick questions All: 1. Does anyone know if AJ DeLange finished/published the third document below? From Part I he stated that a third installment was in the works. a. Understanding Alkalinity and Hardness Part I b. Understanding Alkalinity and Hardness Part II c. "A third installment will deal primarily with chloride and sulfate..." Part III I have purchased all of the Brewing Techniques issues that featured Mr. DeLange's articles. Unfortunately I could not locate his document on Cl and SO4. 2. I am getting a little more serious with my yeast farming. My wife has recommended therapy! Can anyone recommend a microscope, preferably a x1000, oil immersion scope for less than $1000. I would be interested in purchasing a used microscope, if possible. Thank you. Floyd Bates Surveillance Engineer Shell Rocky Mountain Production, LLC * 307-360-6951 (Cell) *? 307-367-7907 (Office) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:39:16 -0400 From: "James Sploonta" <biere_god at hotmail.com> Subject: Seems to be internet security settings... Odd. I lowered the Internet Security Settings from "Medium" to "Low" (the adminstrators probably shuddered when they felt the disturbance in the ether), and Hotmail functions again. Perhaps they are sending out unsigned Active-X scripts? Anyway, back to Klein. 5/19/02, he demonstrates his abject ignorance of culinary science with his discussion of how the bitterness and alcohol of Chang beer subdues the spicy Thai food. No, dipstick, it's the malty sweetness that interferes with the acid receptors. Alcohol enhances heat in spicy foods. Bitterness plays no part. And 5/18/2002, "Unfiltered beer continues to ferment in the bottle,..." Ok so far "...which results in a hazy or cloudy appearance to the liquid..." in most cases, only if you don't know how to pour it, Bobby. I suspect this is the case here. "...and a fresher, more "natural" taste." (I won't even mention the "peach-tinged hoppiness"...) 5/15, Wynkoop Imperial IPA: "Soft and snoothly bitter, this oak-aged draft IPA's floral mouthfeel..." do you mean "flavor" or "aroma"? I simply don't know how to "feel" floral "...has a bitter bite and a fairly floral aftertaste." that taste as part of mouthfeel again "...The natural carbonation encourages the hops to stay soft and subtly complex." Say, what?! "...Patches of variegated BRussels lace form a contrasting backdrop to the light-amber body. The hop bitterness consolidates toward the end, resting softly on the palate while remaining tasteful and unassertive." Just as this description defies comprehension. "...Obviouosly a very carefully crafted brew, Imperial deserves your undivided attention." 5/11, Bathbeer: "Hoppy pinpricks coat the tongue..." uh, do you mean "carbon dioxide bubbles"? 5/6 Castlemaine XXXX Lager, "It is a bit hoppier than many of its competitors, due to the use of whole hops, rather than the less flavorful pea-sized compressed pellets sometimes used by brewers." This demonstrates Klein's lcare in researching and his uncanny grasp of brewing practices and principles. He's referring to hop pellets - those small cylindrical pieces of compressed hops. You know: the ones you typically have to use less of because they provide MORE bitterness to the wort than do fresh hops? Yeah. Those. 4/7, Alaskan ESB, "The hop character stays evenhanded, stimulating a bit of juiciness from its focused bitterness." Now this, my friends, defies all attempts at interpretation. Absolute drivel. I'm no expert, but the term "bitter" in "Extra Special Bitter" does not refer to its flavor. I find most bitters to be wonderfully malty, with complex ale flavors with muted hop flavor. Sometimes high in bitterness, but not on the order that I would refer to an ESB as "bitter" in flavor. Never, and I repeat, NEVER having a "bitter, hop mouthfeel". If it DID have a hop mouthfeel of any sort, I'd suspect the screens in my boil kettle were not filtering the hop leaves out of the wort... 4/6, HB Hofbrauhaus Munchen, "The grainy aroma is anchored by an unexpected banana aspect as a well-calibrated effervescent pressure enlivens the sturdy, light-gold body." Has anyone recently had one of these? Can you tell me just what in hell Klein means by this? 4/5, Elysian the Wise Man: "...sweetish, but strong hop mouthfeel that sticks tenaciously..." Sweet hops? Hop mouthfeel? Huh? Also, noting that "A fresh, doughy aroma arises at mid-bottle. The cloudy amber body has hints of chocolate at the finish." is evidence that our friend is either consuming from the bottle, or is doing incremental pours without attenmtion to the sediment in the bottle. Note how the Wynkoop example, a draft-only beer, is the only one I've encountered in this calendar to date that is not desrbed as cloudy or hazy (or at least that I remember...). 4/4, Fuji Amber Ale sounds disgusting with its "...green pea mouthfeel...". And how come my signature disappears when I post from work? -JS Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:07:40 -0500 From: "Gary Smith" <mandolinist at interlync.com> Subject: Keg insulation - long... How-D, My eternal RIMs projects are going swimmingly, always revising & that sort of thing... I tried a couple of things with my system last week before I left for a large ham radio festival in Dayton, OH with the thought that something I found there to bring back might be useful. I've got a one tier RIMS utilizing sabco kegs & with 2 pumps; one is a magnetic March pump & the other a 1/2" ID peristaltic. I'm using a 6,000W ULWD water heater element in a stainless chamber but feeding it with 110V so it generates about 1,500 watts. I was able to bring 10 gal of water from 60 degrees to 170 degrees in about 2 1/2 hours. (Yes, I'll pre- heat the water in the boilkettle before pumping it into the mash, this was just an experiment). I'm using 1/2" ID Norprene tubing & Polysulfone Quick disconnects for everything tubing related. The Camp Chef is permanently attached under the boil kettle and all flame generated heating of water happens here and gets pumped where needed. The Peristaltic will pump from the boilkettle to the HLT when ready as the mag pump continues to circulate through the rims. As the sweet liquor is being pumped from the mash-tun via the march pump, water will be simultaneously pumped from the HLT via the peristaltic pump as sparge water. What was apparent to me during this test was the heat required to raise the water using the rims alone was wasted from the kettle itself, the rims chamber & the tubing. IF I was not loosing so much heat from the keg & rims chamber, I would have a much more rapid temp change. This would allow a much easier decoction, save time & be more cost effective. I called the major names advertised in Zymurgy, my email list & from a quick internet search to find a wrap-around insulator for the kegs. Several of the places I called couldn't understand exactly what I wanted & at the very least, didn't have it. No one had anything in this regard. The closest I found was a jacket for a corny keg to keep it cool outside the freezer. I was told one solution was to wrap plastic around the kegs & it would retain heat better. I thought about the needs & what would be effective & easy to clean. For the Norprene tubing, it seems like the flexible wrap-around air-cell insulation that insulates the AC lines from the outdoor compressor to the house would be perfect for insulating the Norprene tubes. While at the Dayton hamfest, I found a rubber mat floor liner for a pickup truck that was certainly enough to cut into sections that would wrap around the 3 Sabco kegs & the RIMS chamber. I can even attach the rubber to the bottom of the mash & HLT vessels as no direct heat source touches them, same for the top surface of the keg lids. If I move the bottom of the rubber up from the lower part of the boil kettle, it won't be affected by the flame below. OK, I know this will really make a big difference & will be really easy to clean. I'm not sure just wrapping the kegs with this from a cut rubber mat is as good an idea as I might use. I haven't cut the mat yet, perhaps there's something I should insert between the rubber & the stainless keg that would help & don't want to cut the rubber too short. I thought about sandwiching bubble wrap in-between but didn't know about it's longevity. I was thinking about holding the rubber in place on the kegs with bungee straps although I picked up some incredible glue at Dayton which glues anything immediately & remains flexible ( the demonstrator cut a vacuum cleaner motor O-ring in half with a knife & then put one drop of this glue on one cut end & rejoined the two pieces together & 5 seconds later it was as new, I couldn't break or twist the bond apart...) Still, the bungee straps might be a better method. That's pretty much the whole picture. Insulation on all 3 kegs seems like it would allow me a much faster rise time & save electricity & Propane. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I might effectively put between the rubber & the keg for an effective & easy to clean insulation? Is there a better overall solution I might check into? If you managed to read this far, thanks! :) Cheers, Gary Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 12:02:02 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Tomato Sauce, Seibel HSA Brewsters: Martin Brungard is having trouble matching a beer with tomato sauce foods and asks for some help. Hmmm! Maybe you've never tried pizza or spaghetti along with a good old American pilsner style? I've never tried a Wit but that should go nicely as I like lactic acid ( from, for example, cheese) along with the acids in tomatoes. Growing up in the Midwest we used to drink ( and I still do, occasionally) "Red Beer" made by mixing approximately 50/50 Campbell's tomato juice and Strohs or Bud or whatever to taste. Tasty on a hot day. I am sure any lawnmower beer would be just great. Also we would sometimes use V-8 just in case we were accused of not eating our vegetables and a little hot sauce to kinda spice things up if we were in a Mexican mood. - ------------------------------- Kirk Annand's comments on HSA using the gas laws as a way to determine if HSA is potentially significant or not is logically incorrect. First the gas laws deal with pure ideal gases under equilibrium conditions. Hardly the situation at the interface of a kettle of boiling wort. Secondly, he assumes that non-reactive water is the same as reactive wort. Not so. This phenomenon of wort oxidation is not one of equilibrium but one of kinetics. That is, the RATE of reaction is important. Since this is a surface phenomenon the relative surface area ( surface/volume) exposed to oxygen is important. Since most rates of reaction go up with temperature, at the boil, the rate of oxidation increases. The reason oxidation of wort can be important in homebrewing is that the surface to volume ratio is so large compared even to small breweries. This gives ample opportunity for reaction at the surface. Hot transfer can be another stage for oxidation that is substantially different for homebrewers. Don't kid yourself. Until you actually try the suggested remedies to reduce wort oxidation in your particular boiling/transfer situation you will never know the effect of wort oxidation on the final taste and color of your beer. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 16:22:31 -0400 From: "Greg Smith" <barnbrew at ix.netcom.com> Subject: South FL Suppliers Greetings, I am trying to find some south Florida supply shops. I know of Home Brewers Warehouse, although I honestly haven't been there yet. I am wondering if there are any others in the Ft. Lauderdale area - ideally between Ft. Lauderdale and Boca, but perhaps as far north as Delray Beach. The only listings I ever see are way further north in FL, so naturally, I'm looking for something closer to home. For some reason, I can't convince my better half that whole day or a two day trip for homebrew supplies is a good thing. She's understanding, but not THAT understanding. I don't mind mail order, but when I am in a rush and "gotta have something," well, I gotta have it. Both posting replies in the digest and/or private emails are fine. Many Thanks, Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 14:31:06 -0600 From: "Gary Glass" <gary at aob.org> Subject: IPA Club-Only Comp The Results are Finally In!! Judging was completed on Sunday May 19, the judging had to be postponed due to some unfortunate schedule conflicts with the local judges. The AHA thanks Jeff Smith and the South Gasconade Brewing Society of Owensville, MO for hosting the IPA Club-Only Competition held May 4-19, 2002. This was the sixth of six competitions in the August to May 2001-2002 cycle, with points going toward the Homebrew Club of the Year trophy. Of the 43 entries the winners were: First Place Mark Ryan of Anchorage, AK Representing Great Northern Brewers With his IPA Second Place Kenneth Adamson of Edmond, OK Representing the High Plains Draughters With Adamson's Burton IPA Third Place Kenny Schrader of Edison, NJ Representing W.H.A.L.E.S. With Divorce Court IPA Congratulations! Thanks to all of the clubs that participated. Current Standings: 13 ZZ HOPS 6 CRAFT 6 Foam on the Range 6 Great Northern Brewers 6 Wort Hogs 3 Brew Rats 3 High Plains Draughters 3 Hogtown Brewers 3 Long Beach Homebrewers 3 Niagara Association of Homebrewers 3 Prairie Homebrewing Companions 2 Iowa Brewers' Union (IBU) 1 Pint and Pummel 1 Urban Knaves of Grain 1 W.H.A.L.E.S. Cheers! Gary Glass, Project Coordinator Association of Brewers 888-U-CAN-BREW (303) 447-0816 x 121 gary at aob.org www.beertown.org The National Homebrewers Conference got so big we had to move it to Texas. Don't miss the "Big Texas Toast" in Irving, TX, June 20-22. Check out http://hbd.org/nhc2002/ The Great American Beer Festival Turns 21 this Year! Mark your calendars, October 3-5, 2002 at the Denver Convention Center, http://www.beertown.org/GABF/ Join the AHA today at http://www.beertown.org/AHA/ahabens.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 16:07:29 -0700 From: "doug klon" <klonyklon at hotmail.com> Subject: Zymurgy Magazine Rubbermaid Bulkhead Plans Has anyone made the bulkhead fitting for Rubbermaid/Gott picnic coolers from the plans in the recent issue of "Zymurgy" (not sure what month - Jan-Feb maybe - it was the one with the orange picnic cooler on the front, I believe it said "Art of the Mash" on the cover)? If so, what did you use for a washer on the outside of the cooler? I tried an O-Ring but couldn't find one to fit, so I cut away a rubber flat washer. However, this isn't really water tight - it dribbles out around the edges, nothing too dramatic but annoying nonetheless. Any ideas? Thanks, Doug Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:23:32 -0400 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: We have arrived! Good Morning, Check out the latest issue of American Heritage magazine (July 2002), published by Forbes and one great history magazine. I tore off the plastic to find a beautiful mug of beer, with the headline.........."Democracy's Drink, what beer tells us about America." The article finishes with Michael Jackson 10 best American beers. I might disagree with him on quite a few, but hey, we have so many great choices! Isn't that what democracy is all about! Enjoy the read, David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 19:29:36 -0500 From: "Partner" <Partner at Netdirect.net> Subject: Wort Boiling I just finished reading George Fix's "Principles" Second Edition, and am beginning to wonder about some of my methods. I started using a portable fan blowing over the top of my boil kettle. This was because once I started boiling 12-13 gallons of wort, I was not getting the vigorous boil I was use to at 7 gallons. Before, I would even constantly stir the Wort during boil to reduce the volume to try to have at least a 90-120 min. boil. All to reduce volume to get a higher O.G. Higher O.G. = higher Al. / vol. Now I know I'm facing Mallard Reactions (Deeper Colour), and also losing the protection layer of steam above the boil. <- Read more, learn more. I saw the benefit of having a steady stream of air blowing across the top to help remove moisture, but now I wonder if I am doing wonderfully wrong bad bad things? Yes, I know the big boys would not do this. Does anyone else do this? What's the consensus? Sparge less and work from their? Go for JUST a 60 min boil? Up the pale malt's to get more fermentables? Tell me more, please. I think I already answered my questions..... Add more fermentable grains. Boil for no more than 90 min for hop consideration and also colour changes. But knowing that moving air across the top of a boil means a faster evaporation rate/shorter boil, makes me want to continue that aspect. Argh, the experimentation I have to go thru! :) Byron 206.9, 212.1 Apparent That's my story and I'm sticking to it! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 21:43:05 -0700 From: "Kirk Annand" <kirk.annand at ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Siebel Reply - George Fix Mashing Procedure Troy: No, this 'steady temperature increase' mashing procedure is not common. It is understandable why it works since the total mashing time once the grains are wetted is almost 1 hr 40 min. With modern malts this is a long mash period. As you know there are many enzymes in the malt and this procedure lets all of the ones that work from 100 - 168 degrees have a chance to convert or degrade those substances that they would normally do. The possible problem with this type of regime is that mashing is normally controlled by holding the mash at specific temperatures for specific time periods. This steady temperature increase regime takes away this type of control and so the enzymes (all of which are active in a particular part of the temperature range) only have a relatively short time at their optimum temperatures to do their conversion. Modern malts are different than ones made in previous times. Most of them have higher enzyme levels than 'old fashion' malts and so have faster conversion times. For this reason I believe that this regime will work with the other malts you mentioned but the resulting beer may have a different body and flavor profile than the same beer made with a conventional mashing regime. Anheuser-Busch does not use this type of mashing schedule to make their beers. With the exception of their all-malt specialty beers made in their smallest brewery all A-B beers are made with a certain percentage of cereal adjunct, either rice or corn depending on the brand. When using adjuncts they use a cereal cooker with small amount of malt and the adjunct. They bring this to a boil to gelatinize / liquify the starch and then they add it to the malt mash in the cereal cooker. The process is a lot like decoction mashing and the addition of the boiled cooker mash in a controlled pump-over gives the 'stepped temperature rise' to conversion temperature. The mash mixer has controllable steam jackets and after conversion the entire mash is raised up to mash-off temperature and pumped to the lauter tun. In your George Fix quote he mentions decoction. As an aside it may be of interest to know that decoction mashing is almost a thing of the past in Germany. One of our colleagues at Doemens Academy told me that he believes there are only 3 or 4 breweries in Germany (out of about 1000) who are still doing it. Modern brewing materials and the control of stepped infusion mash mixers has led to its virtual demise in the land where it was once very common. Kirk Annand, S.I.T. Tue, 14 May 2002 10:07:16 -0700 From: Troy Hager <thager at hcsd.k12.ca.us> Subject: Siebel Week Thank you in advance for this opportunity! My question stems from posts by George Fix last year about a "steady temperature increase" mashing procedure that he used to make many of his award winning beers in the last few years of his life. This procedure entails doughing in the grain at around 100F for 30 minutes and then steadily raising the temperature at a rate of about 1 degree F / minute to mash out temps of 168F or so. The direct quote from his post (from file:3628 Date:Tue, 08 May 2001): "The steady temperature increase mashing procedure described for us by the folks at AB during MCAB II last year does indeed work on the homebrew level, even with Budvar malt. Decoction is always the safest recommendation for such malts, but my experience indicates that the AB procedure is a viable alternative." I just brewed an export to his recipe using the Budvar undermodified malt and this mashing regime. With the 34/70 lager strain this beer dropped nicely with a AA of 76%. It is lagering now and seems to be excellent - well attenuated yet full bodied. Questions: 1. Is this a widely used mashing method? Does Anheuser-Busch (sp?) use this schedule has Fix infers? 2. Obviously this method works well for this malt (his many awards seem to be proof of that), but what about other malt? For example, what would I expect with a more highly modified German Pils malt or American 2-row? Thanks! Troy Hager Technology Specialist Crocker Middle School Hillsborough, CA 94010 650-548-4242 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:09:52 -0700 From: "Kirk Annand" <kirk.annand at ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Siebel Reply - Oak Cask Tim: The use of oak casks without 'brewers pitch' is not and never has been very common in brewing. When barrels were a standard way to deliver draught beer to taverns they were always coated with a brewers pitch first. This was a tar-like compound that was melted and then added to the barrel and rolled around in the barrel to completely cover the wood. A lot of old breweries burnt down because of fires when they were melting the pitch! The purpose of this pitch was to seal the keg so that air would not get in and carbon dioxide out of the beer but also to prevent the wood coming in contact with the beer. Wood is not a good material to come in contact with beer since because of it porous surface it is almost impossible to eliminate beer spoiling organisms. The Michael Jackson 'Beer Hunter' video on Czech beers shows them removing and adding pitch to the old fermenters and storage tanks that used to be used at Pilsner Urquell. Lambic brewers use casks but since their beers naturally ferment with yeast and bacteria from the air the barrels are just another way to get some of the fermentation going. Using a barrel to get an 'oaked' character to beer is difficult to control. Wine usually has a higher alcohol content than beer as well as a lower pH and higher acidity. Beer is a much more delicate beverage and sanitation is more critical in breweries than it is in wineries. Using the techniques that vintner's use to break in a barrel is not really acceptable for beer. I know brewers who use old whisky barrels to brew beer in but they often use them to get some of the whisky character into their beers. These barrels are also charred inside and the remnants of the highly alcoholic liquid inside reduces the chance of wayward bacteria that could spoil their beer. I know this has probably been of little help for your cask so maybe someone else knows how to prepare the cask for what you want to do. Kirk Annand, S.I.T. Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 14:07:52 -0400 From: Tim McManus <tmm4264 at galaxy.net> Subject: Siebel Week Thank you for taking the time to answer these questions. Can you describe the proper "care and feeding" of an American Oak cask? I would like to understand how to prepare the cask as a secondary fermentation vessel for high gravity beers, how to prevent infection in the secondary during a 3-4 month aging process, and how to store the cask in between brewing cycles. The motivation behind the first question is due to a failed stout batch I recently used on my lawn. I prepared the cask according to Acton and Duncan's procedure for breaking in an oak barrel from the book "Progressive Winemaking". I left the cask in my basement for approximately 10 weeks. When I opened the cask there was an aqua-blue leather-like surface on the liquid. Some microorganisms had a field day growing in there. Needless to say, I was a bit distraught. I want to prevent this in the future. Thanks! More may follow. -Tim McManus Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:47:30 -0700 From: "Kirk Annand" <kirk.annand at ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Siebel Reply - Post-Boil Hop Effects David: Some parts of your question may be dealt with in my response to the 'Hop Isomerization' in HBD 3943 (May 17). The longer the hops sit in the hot wort the more utilization there is of the bittering substances. If you add your late hops 15 minutes before the end of the boil you should factor them into your bitterness calculations. Boiling wort dissolves the alpha acids in the wort and isomerizes them. Hot soaking (depending on the time and how close the wort is to boiling temperature) will do some of the same things but at a much slower rate. If the hops are added to the wort after it has been boiled while it is waiting to be cooled I would probably not consider that they added any bittering value. Hopefully they will provide some clean, fresh hop aroma. This practice of hot soaking the hops is much more common among homebrewers than it is in the commercial brewing community. This is not a kettle hop addition and in most commercial breweries they want the hops (if they are whole cone) out of the wort so they will not be in the whirlpool tank. Hop jacks or hop backs usually remove the whole hop cones before the wort is whirlpooled. In the case of pelletized hops they would sink to the bottom of the whirlpool and not be part of the trub pile and they might cause problems if they were to enter the wort cooler. Kirk Annand, S.I.T. Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:19:44 -0400 From: Sherfey <sherf at warwick.net> Subject: Siebel Week, Post-Boil Hop Effects In homebrew systems using a post-boil counterflow chiller for cooling, the wort sits for quite awhile at hot temperatures, possibly 30-45 min. or even longer. Immersion chiller systems cool the wort in bulk and reduce the kettle temperature much quicker, but there is still some time that the wort sits at elevated temperatures, depending on the elegance of the system and the efficiency of the brewer at that point in the process. I would like to know what effect this "hop rest" of 5 minutes or longer has on the bitterness and hop flavor that survives fermentation, and in particular the effect on late hop additions from 15 min. remaining boil time through knock-out additions. How would the resulting bitterness be factored into the IBI formula? Please compare the (effects) difference between rolling-boiled hops and hot-soaked hops. Thanks so much for your time in answering our questions this week! David Sherfey Warwick, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:51:32 -0700 From: "Kirk Annand" <kirk.annand at ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: CAPS General Question: I have been looking at HBD for a little over a week and I see the term 'CAP' often. What does this stand for? It is an abbreviation that I am not familiar with. Kirk Annand, Siebel Institute of Technology Return to table of contents
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