HOMEBREW Digest #4034 Fri 06 September 2002

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  Re: Candi Sugar ("Don Van Valkenburg")
  Re: Efficiency problems ("Kent Fletcher")
  Barleywine Fermentation ("Scott & Lisa")
  Re: Efficiency problems (Ray Daniels)
  Re:RE: controlling Alpha-amylase activity (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com>
  Aquarium Fermenter (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com>
  Disolved Oxygen Research ("Philip J Wilcox")
  How long for primary? ("Gary Smith")
  RE:  Straffe Hendrik and Candi sugar ("Houseman, David L")
  Efficiency Problems (Richard Foote)
  Re: Fermenting in a SS Pot (Jeff Renner)
  Efficiency Problems ("Dan Listermann")
  Lager Starter Question (HQ BIC)" <dmiller at hq.dcma.mil>
  5th Annual Hoppy Halloween Challenge ("Susan Ruud")
  RE: Efficiency Problems ("Doug Hurst")
  Homebrew Competition Planning ("Mark Tumarkin")
  drum heater (Paul Mahoney)
  new beer tower (Bryan Gros)
  Re: Straffe Hendrik ("Thomas D. Hamann")
  RE: Efficiency Problems ("Dan Gross")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 00:03:22 -0700 From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <dvanv at earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Candi Sugar Braam Greyling asks: What should I use for a replacement of the candi sugar that they use in Belgium Beer ? In a recent trip to Belgian, I saw bags simply labeled dextrose in some breweries and several said they were converting to liquid sugar. Orval was one of those that used liquid. I know this doesn't help as you won't find liquid sugar at your local homebrew shop. But, as far as the clear candi sugar is concerned, it doesn't have to be in candi form. Granulated will do quite nicely. The only difference between your table sugar and the clear candi sugar is that most table sugar is cane sugar. Belgian candi sugar is made from beets. Thus if you can find beet sugar, you are set. BTW, Stein Fillers brewing supply in Long Beach sells granulated beet sugar at a much lower cost than rock candi. --- Yes, I am affiliated with Stein Fillers... Don Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 00:44:17 -0700 From: "Kent Fletcher" <kfletcher at socal.rr.com> Subject: Re: Efficiency problems Andrew E Hipkiss asked about low eficiency with his recent forays into all-grain brewing: (snip) >My set up is a as follows: 2 five gallon Rubbermaid coolers - 1 for mash tun >with false bottom and one for sparge water tank utilizing a sparge arm. (snip) >I mash for 90 minutes at a rate of 1.2 quarts of water per pound of >grain. I use 5.25 gallons of sparge water, also modified with salt at 168 F. >My sparge last around 70 minutes, 2 quarts per 5 min. I keep the flow >consistent between the tun and sparge. > My final runnings are usually high > around 1.016 - 1.018, and my overall efficiency is around 60% according to > Promash. Any ideas? Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. Andrew, I assume you're brewing 5 gallon batches? YOur 5 gallon coolers are really small for this purpose. You could probably improve your yield if you could achieve a mash-out. Unfortunately, you won't be able to do a mash-out with a 5 gallon tun, as it would require infusing more water than you can hold, you would need a 10 gallon tun, adn a 10 gallon hlt would be better, as well. Barring upsizing your equipment, your only other real option is to make the most of what you've gott [sorry ;)] You want to sparge until your runoff is 1.010, maybe 1.008. You might try experimenting with batch sparging, but then again, you can only get so much water on top of your mash in that tun of yours. Bottom line is, you're gonna make good brew with what you've got for now, so who cares about a little low efficiency? You're at 60% for a recipe base on 75%? Just modify the recipe accordingly, multiply all of the malts/adjuncts by 1.2, and enjoy! What's 20% more malt in a 5 gallon batch? Wait until you get into RIMS or HERMS before you get that anal! Kent Fletcher brewing in So Cal 1951, 265 Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 05:42:14 -0500 From: "Scott & Lisa" <scottandlisa at mindspring.com> Subject: Barleywine Fermentation I brewed my first barleywine on 7/28. Everything went fine, with my OG coming in a little high at 1.114. I racked to secondary on 08/07, but lost the siphon, and didn't want to pump too much air into the secondary, so I The s.g. on 8/24 was 1.028, which is close to target (1.024). The brew is still pretty cloudy, and I am unsure of leaving it in the carboy too much longer b/c of headspace issues. I suppose another two or three weeks in the secondary would clear it up, but I'm worried about oxidation. Any thoughts? Thanks, Scott Williams Greenbrier, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 06:21:23 -0500 From: Ray Daniels <raydan at ameritech.net> Subject: Re: Efficiency problems Andrew: Do you drain your first wort from the lauter tun before beginning the sparge? That could be the key. If you begin the flow of sparge water before draining, you just dilute your wort and make it harder to collect. Now when I say "drain" I don't mean run it dry or untill the outlet is sputtering, but do run it down well below the top of the grain bed. I judge this by looking at the grain bed and if I can't see ANY liquid down in the bed, it is time to start sparging. With experience you'll get a feel for how far you can let it go. If that doesn't do it, I'd start looking at chemistry, namely with that water. I'm never a big fan of distilled water as a brewing base regardless of what you put back into it. If you aren't getting enough calcium in every mash, that could be a problem too. Ray Daniels Editor, Zymurgy & The New Brewer Director, Brewers Publications ray at aob.org 773-665-1300 Call Customer Service at 888-822-6273 to subscribe or order individual magazines. For more information, see www.beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 13:52:17 +0200 From: "Aikema, J.N. (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com> Subject: Re:RE: controlling Alpha-amylase activity Steve, The experiment is almost done. But I didn't understand the results. That's why these questions. I will try to summarize the results in HBD (will take a few weeks, because I do 2 or 3 experiments in a weekend). Greetings from Holland (Europe), Hans Aikema Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 08:07:19 -0400 From: "Barrett, Bob (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com> Subject: Aquarium Fermenter I know there has been lots of talk lately about different kinds of fermenters. Carboys, buckets, cornies, pots, sanke kegs, plastic bags, etc, etc. A friend of mine a while back told me he uses 10 gal aquariums as fermenters. He uses it as an open fermenter and scrapes the yeast off the top every day or so. He said you can see the activity during fermentation because of the glass sides and it may be a good way to replicate the shallow trough type fermenters used by Anchor Brewing for their steam beer. I know I can find them for sale cheap ($10-$15)every weekend in the local paper. Has anyone else had experience with this kind of fermenter? We make the beer we drink!! Bob Barrett Ann Arbor, MI (2.8, 103.6 Rennerian) I know I must be close to the center of the brewing universe because I can feel the heat!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 08:38:11 -0400 From: "Philip J Wilcox" <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Disolved Oxygen Research Hi all, Since the HBD has been a bit anemic while we are getting used to our new fall schedules, I thought I would pass along some research my uncle (Phil DeVore) the winemaker has been working on. Phil is not a regular HBD reader so if you could CC: him at ped at qtm.net with any commetary, we would be much abliged. Phil Wilcox Poison Frog Home Brewer Warden-Prison City Brewers In Jackson, MI 32 Mi. West of Jeff Renner AABG, AHA, BJCP, HBD, MCAB, ETC., ad nausium... See our languishing and outdated website at http://hbd.org/prisoner Dear Friends: I want to bring you up to date on my research on dissolved oxygen in water, as a proxy for dissolved oxygen in musts. First, I must admit that what I have done is very primitive. But it is a start. This research required two things. First, a good dissolved oxygen meter is required. I recently purchased an YSI 550. This was apparently a fortuitous purchase, as my account representative with Fisher Scientific told me after the fact that this is one of their best selling items. The second is a way to oxygenate water. I purchased a 30 gallon/hour aquarium pump, used with a dispersion stone that Phil was kind enough to provide. As a starter, what is the dissolved oxygen of water? The meter showed that tap water has 10.06 mg/L of oxygen (10 ppm). This is essentially the saturation level of water. The next step was to deplete the water of oxygen so its addition into the water could be monitored. I ran 6 volumes of nitrogen through the water, reducing the oxygen level to 0.08 ppm. This is close enough to 0 so I saw no need to sparge more nitrogen. The next question is how much air the pump and dispersion stone really add, considering my stone and the 9' of plastic tubing. I filled a 3 gallon carboy with water and placed it is a tub partially fill of water. It took 12 minutes 50 seconds to displace all the water, so the rate was 4 minutes 15 seconds to displace a gallon. This is just under half what the pump was rated at, but so what, at least I know what my unit does. The next step was to use the pump and stone to aerate the water and measure the results. I used a 5 gallon carboy for best accuracy but for convenience have adjusted everything to a 1 gallon basis. Remember that for my situation 1 gallon of air (0.21 gallon of oxygen) is sparged is 4 minutes 15 seconds. My results are shown below: Volumes of Air/Volume of Water Dissolved Oxygen (ppm) 0.00 0.14 0.063 0.89 0.125 1.66 0.25 3.00 0.50 4.90 1.00 7.25 2.00 8.64 4.00 9.00 8.00 8.80 These results show several things. First, the rate at which oxygen is absorbed into the water rapidly decreases. This is no doubt due to the fact that the more oxygen in the water, the more that is scrubbed out by the nitrogen. One gas displaces another, and since nitrogen is volumetrically superior, this limits the oxygen that may be absorbed. It is also shown that the concentration of oxygen is never as great as occurs in nature, but it is a very stout 90%. As air (and oxygen) is absorbed under normal conditions, there is no violent nitrogen scrubbing as we have here, so oxygen ends up at somewhat greater levels. The real question is what this all means, and what practical guidance may be gleamed. My inclination is to turn over 1 volume of air, which will result in about 7.2 pm of oxygen addition. This does not include any oxygen the yeast might metabolize during the time of sparging. I am guessing that this is relatively small. If one wants more oxygen addition, I think the best bet is to wait till the oxygen drops to below 1 ppm and then go through the same process all over again. For my setup, this would call for sparging about 4 minutes for every gallon of must. It should be noted that a very small percentage of the oxygen sparged into the water is absorbed. This is due to the slow rate of oxygen absorption and increasingly the sparging action of nitrogen as the oxygen level builds. Prior calculations have shown that one turn of air contains enough oxygen to add 251 ppm to a gallon of must. Clearly only a small amount of the potential oxygen is absorbed. Perhaps this is due to the grace of the wine gods. If must/wine absorbed oxygen at a more rapid rate, we would be making vinegar, not wine! Any thoughts you might have would be well appreciated. Best regards, Phil DeVore ped at qtm.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 07:49:23 -0500 From: "Gary Smith" <mandolinist at ameritech.net> Subject: How long for primary? Hi, What's considered a safe time to leave a beer in the primary without negatively affecting the flavor? Is two weeks excessive? I've usually transferred to the secondary within 3-4 days but leaving it in longer would be more flexible for me. Thanks, Gary Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 08:57:08 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: RE: Straffe Hendrik and Candi sugar Braam: "What should I use for a replacement of the candi sugar that they use in Belgium Beer?" So why use a replacement and not use candi sugar? No available where you are? Well, I would, and have used sucrose; table sugar. Either in it's granulated form or you can grow up your own crystals. I've done that on a small scale. Growing up a pound or more may take a little more work and time. You can caramelize sugar to give some additional color and flavor but be careful not to burn it of course. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 15:28:31 -0400 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Efficiency Problems Andrew writes regarding efficiency problems with all grain brews. His methods don't look terribly far from the norm. However, there has been some concern in the past expressed in this forum regarding temperature losses to sparge water as a result of the whirling sparge arms, which spray water in narrow steams on top of the grain bed. Such an arrangement, it has been reasoned, could offer considerable cooling of the sparge water going to the lauter tun. Such cooling might result in increased viscosity and loss of run-off efficiency. As well, one purported benefit of conducting a mash-out at elevated temperatures, is the resultant lessening of viscosity and greater extraction of sugars to the run-off. I have noticed considerable influences on efficiency due to different grain lots even within the same brand. Malt is produced from a living agricultural product that is subject to the forces of nature. Each growing season is different--amount of precipitation, duration between precipitation events, temperatures, etc. In short, there are lots of differences from one growing season to the next, which influences the malt produced. Also, each growing area is influenced by differing soils and climate therein. For example, I know from personal experience from living in Pennsylvania, Vermont and now in Georgia that the sweet corn and potatoes down here SUCK (sorry) compared to what I remember from my 30+ years as a Yankee. This may be a more extreme example, geographically, but there are differences from one geographic area to another. There are many variables in our natural world still beyond man's control. There are also many variables in the highly mechanized, or not, production of malt that need to be controlled from one lot to the next. We know this all too well from trying to control all the brewing variables in recreating another batch of that awesome, awarding-winning beer that was brewed three months ago. What is done during the mash has large influences on efficiency. I have found that stirring of the mash greatly increases efficiency. I have taken to the use of a motorized mashmixer of my own creation. [Strom, how's yours working?] When I use it for mash-in and periodically during a rest and then continuously during temp. ramps, I get 90+% efficiency as calculated with ProMash. On a pale ale brewed last weekend, I calculated 94%! On brews where the mashmixer is not used, efficiencies drop to the mid to lower 80's. How much are you stirring? I am not overly concerned that the rather high final runnings are having that big an influence. IMO, it is the gravity of the early runnings that will have the far greater impact. I usually aim for 1.015 to 1.013 minimum for final runnings. Well that's my 2.5 cents. Hope some of this might be helpful. Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 15:27:12 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Fermenting in a SS Pot Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> writes from Lake Jackson, TX: >I would like to hear from some others who ferment in a pot with a lid, and >how you rack and wether or not you skim the yeast/crud off the top, and when >you do that. As I've posted here before, this is SOP for me with ales (lagers I generally do in a Sankey or split between two carboys). I ferment 8 gallon batches in a 10 gallon pot. Ale fermentation is vigorous enough that the pressure of escaping CO2 around the edges of the lid should keep out any airborne contaminants. The lid will keep them out before fermentation starts, too. After all, they can't crawl. (Well, insects can - but the lid should keep them out). I often use plastic wrap over the top, and sometimes, with a really vigorous fermentation, I will make foil "sideboards" about 4" high (10 cm) and lay the plastic wrap on top of them. No tight seal possible here, but it works. I skim the crud off the first few days, then harvest yeast (if it's a top cropper) on the fourth day typically. This is beautifully clean yeast that always seems to be in really good shape. I have a tap at the bottom of the pot that allows me to transfer virtually all the beer. Perhaps you could ad an extended pickup so you don't have to leave a quart behind. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 09:38:39 -0400 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: Efficiency Problems "Andrew E Hipkiss" <ctn73053 at centurytel.net> asks about efficiency problems. I have found that at least 9 times out of 10 efficiency problems experienced by new all-grain brewers can be traced to milling. They try to follow the "just barely crack it" advice they read in a lot of books. This may have been good advice for Corona burr mills because they are very difficult to control, but if followed with modern roller mills, you will invariably produce poor extractions. I crush the malt until It is difficult to find intact corns and those that I do fine are underdeveloped. This is not a hard skill to master and it is rather forgiving. Adjusting the gap is the best way to change the composition of the grist, but is your mill is difficult to adjust or not adjustable, a second pass will usually give good results. Stuck mashes are usually not caused by over crushed grist, but rather excessive vorlauf speed. Take your time setting up the grain bed. Dan Listermann Check out www.listermann.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 16:14:12 -0400 From: "Miller, Donald (HQ BIC)" <dmiller at hq.dcma.mil> Subject: Lager Starter Question I have not had much success in brewing lagers but I'm not letting that stop me. I would like to ask a quick questions regarding starters. I am building a starter with 2 cups of water and one pint of DME. I let the wort starter coll to 74 degrees and then poured the Czech Pils yeast into the bottle. I let the starter go for about 48 hours at room temperature. Yesterday I moved the starter to my chest freezer which is set at 50 degrees (Yes a chest freezer is a little overkill for a starter but it is all I have available to control temperature). My questions are: 1) Should I have this starter at the 50 degrees right now or did I jump the gun? 2) Will the 48 hours at room temperature screw up (technical term) the starter?, and 3) How long before the starter is ready when fermenting at the lower termperature of 50 degrees? Thanks in advance. Personal replies as well as postings are welcome. Don Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 15:19:45 -0700 From: "Susan Ruud" <susan.ruud at ndsu.nodak.edu> Subject: 5th Annual Hoppy Halloween Challenge Call for Entries 5th Annual Hoppy Halloween Challenge - 2002 BJCP/AHA Sanctioned Homebrew Competition The Prairie Homebrewing Companions are hosting the Hoppy Halloween Challenge Homebrew Competition for its 5th year. We accept beers in all 26 BJCP/AHA styles including mead and cider. We've grouped them into 15 competition categories and added a special category for a Halloween Theme beer with a worthy prize. See the description of this special category at the end of this message. Only two 10 to 16 oz bottles are required! Any style of glass or plastic will be accepted. Just think 6 bottles of your precious brew gets you 3 entries instead of 2. Cheaper shipping, less bottling, more beer for you so you may as well double your entries and double your chances of winning one our great prizes. Use a standard entry form (ProMash is fine) or use ours: http://www.linkup.net/users/dtrautmann/entry.html Put a bottle label of your choice on each bottle of beer or use ours: http://www.linkup.net/users/dtrautmann/BottleID.html Send your beer so it gets to our Registrar between Sept 21 and Oct 4 at this address: The PHC % Dave Trautmann 1914 10th St N Fargo, ND 58102 701-237-0756 Oh, we must ask you to include a little money to cover our costs. The first four beers you enter are $7.50/each and all entries after that are $5.00/each. For additional questions and all the details, visit: http://www.linkup.net/users/dtrautmann/phc2002.html If you're in Fargo, ND on Oct 26 be sure to join us for the Best-of-Show ceremonies, always a great time! Competition Coordinator, Karl Gunderson E-mail: kgunders at microsoft.com Home: 701-282-4966 Work: 701-281-6550 Halloween Theme Beer - -------------------- 27a - WIDE OPEN STYLES (NOTHING THAT COULD BE CONSIDERED A HEALTH HAZARD PLEASE) Any beer with characteristics that would identify it as being made for, and in the spirit of, Halloween. Individual qualities such as aroma, appearance, and flavor should be part of the "Halloweeness" of the entry. Brewers should specify the style (if any) and any unique ingredients as appropriate. NOTE: This category will be judged with the theme in mind. The beer will receive points for overall quality AND for its "Halloweeness" (i.e. how well it fits the Halloween theme). The name of the beer will be considered in the judging process. To insure anonymity, brewers are encouraged to name their beer accordingly (i.e. please don't incorporate your name, initials or any other wording that would identify the beer as yours). Have fun! Due to the "unique" nature of this category, the Gold medal winner will not be eligible to compete for Best of Show. Also, medalists in this category will not accumulate points toward the Great Pumpkin Award. Brewers are allowed to enter more than one beer in this category. Original Gravity (Plato): 1.030-110 (7.5-27.5) Final Gravity (Plato): 1.006-30 (2-8) % Alc/Wt (Alc/Vol): 2.0-9.5 (2.5-12.1) IBUs: 0-100 SRM (EBC): 1-100 (2-197) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 17:07:46 -0500 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: RE: Efficiency Problems Andrew states that according to Promash, he's getting a low efficiency. >From your description I don't think your process is the problem. Make sure you have the Promash settings correct and that you are entering the information properly in *all* the required fields. I discovered it's easy to miss a field or two. The Promash Help menus are actually quite helpful (imagine that). -Your batch size and wort size on the ingredients page should both be set the same. -On the efficiency page make sure you have input the actual volume of wort. Promash suggests that you take your SG reading after sparging and before boiling begins. I follow this advice and I usually end up with just over 6 gallons of wort before the boil begins. If I didn't change the volume field it would seem that my efficiency was very low. -I have a system similar to yours and usually get 75-80% efficiency. This translates to 8-9 lbs of 2-row to get a SG of around 1.050. How much grain are you using in comparison for the same SG? If it's close to that I would guess your efficiency isn't as bad as you think. -Finally, don't forget to temperature correct you hydrometer reading. My readings are often at about 120F which makes them appear nearly 10 points low. Hope this helps, Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [215, 264.5] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 19:08:29 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Homebrew Competition Planning Hey y'all, Hogtown Brewers has decided to host a homebrew competition. Dave Perez, our current Primary Fermenter, has decided that this will be the legacy of his 'administration.' This decision may come back to haunt us, but what the hell, it should be fun. We are a small-med sized club, approx 40 members. We have a pretty high percentage of BJCP judges (12, including our newest test takers) but haven't yet ventured into putting on a competition. We get great member participation in club events so that shouldn't present a problem. And we should be able to pull in a good pool of judges from the other FL clubs since our judges go to help at all the other clubs' competitions. We're planning on doing this approx a year from now, next Sept or Oct, so we've got plenty of planning time. That brings me to my question; does anyone have a check-list or planning document that their club has used for putting together a homebrew competition? If so, I'd greatly appreciate a copy if possible. I'm open to any suggestions, feedback etc, that you'd like to offer. thanks, Mark Tumarkin Hogtown Brewers Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 16:42:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul Mahoney <pmmaho at yahoo.com> Subject: drum heater Brewers: I received a catalog at work from Global Industrial Equipment (www.globalindustrial.com), and on page 294 it has a "drum heater". It is an "aluminized steel band" that wraps around a metal drum or pail (55 gallon drum, 22.5" diameter). It claims to provide fast, efficient temperature-controlled heating. It comes in either 1920 or 3000 watt models, and is thermostat controlled. Price is $275.95, and temp. range is 200'-400' for one model, and 60'-250' for another model. So, always thinking about brewing (except when I am thinking about the Redskins), I wondered if anyone on this list might know about this drum heater, and if it could be used for mashing or other brewing techniques. This catalog also has drum liners and inserts (p. 195) but no info on whether or not they are food grade. They also have FDA approved plastic drums 15, 20, 30, 35 and 55 gallon sizes. Lots of interesting stuff. Any ideas or comments about possibilities for brewing? Paul Mahoney Star City Brewers Guild Roanoke, Va. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 17:00:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Bryan Gros <blgros at yahoo.com> Subject: new beer tower I'm looking for advice on the best place to purchase a new tower for my kegerator type fridge. Then one I have can fit 3 cornys, so I need a tower with 3 taps. Somewhere I saw a "swan neck" tower, which curved toward the front and had the three taps side by side on the front. Looked great, and I thought it was around $250. Don't know where i saw it though. I see at Rapids they have the standard 3" towers with two and three taps. About $175. Probably what I'll get. Nice german Ceramic towers are about $600. Unfortunately, out of my range. So, any other good sources I'm missing? Will Rapids sell to me direct? Thanks. ===== - Bryan Bryan Gros Oakland CA NEW EMAIL ADDRESS: bgros at aggienetwork.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 10:39:05 +0930 From: "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann at senet.com.au> Subject: Re: Straffe Hendrik Would like a recipe too, was my favourite when i was in Belgium. tdh At 00:12 5/09/02 Thursday -0400, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 08:39:38 +0200 >From: "Braam Greyling" <braam.greyling at azoteq.com> >Subject: Straffe Hendrik and Candi sugar > >Hi all, > >Have someone ever tried cloning the Belgium beer named Straffe >Hendrik ? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 21:51:14 -0400 From: "Dan Gross" <degross at starpower.net> Subject: RE: Efficiency Problems Andrew, Do you check the ph of your water? I have had pretty poor extraction rates when my mash ph is above 5.5. This should not be a concern with darker beers since dark grains will lower the ph. But if you are brewing lagers with almost no dark grains that could be part of the problem. Dan Gross Olney, Md Return to table of contents
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