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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Re: Bottle Labels or Label Glue for Home Brew (Kent Fletcher)
  2 questions ("greg man")
  2 questions ("greg man")
  re: yeast blending results/more steam ("Steve Alexander")
  Writers wanted, readers needed ("Zachie")
  Yeuglings ("David Craft")
  Glue for homebrew labels ("Ross D. Potter")
  TMS conical seal (David Towson)
  Excel Bottle Spreadsheet ("Mike Brennan")
  Water heater element for RIMS (Scott)


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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 22:29:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Bottle Labels or Label Glue for Home Brew

Paul Romanowskybrings up a sticky question:

>Or has anyone found a good glue/adhesive that when
>used on home printed labels on plain paper will allow
>easy removal of labels.

Well, Paul,
Given that TNSTAAFL, you may not be able to have it
both ways.  But I do have a method for fast and secure
lable placement.  In 2001 by club, the Maltose
Falcons, brewed 90 some gallons of IPA and 50 of Mead
for the NHC.  That was a lot of labels.  There are
several brands of spray contact adhesive on the
market, 3m to name one.  Lay the labels face down in
rows and spray them lightly with adhesive. Let them
dry for 30 seconds to a minute, then just touch the
back of tha lable to pick it up and place it on the
bottle.  I wound picking up a number of the empty
bottles after the banquet.  After soaking in my bottle
barrel (filled with bleach/water) they were as easy to
remove as most commercial bottles.  Hope that helps.

Kent Fletcher
Brewing in So Cal



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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 02:43:03 -0400
From: "greg man" <dropthebeer at hotmail.com>
Subject: 2 questions 


Hello all,
Greg Getman (gregman) here Iv'e got two questions for the collective master 
minds to answer..............

First what was the answer given to the guy about the 028 white labs yeast? 
He was saying something about the flavor produced being earthy?

Does any one have some tips or advice about these beast's personality?
I'm planning a brew with them soon so I would appreciate a heads up.

I know It doesn't ferment well below 62'f which is strange for an authentic 
Scottish style yeast? They usually like the colder temps actually I chose it 
because my basement won't get too cold in the winter up here in Connecticut.
Any help would be appreciated.............

Second an this is the tough one, Can you add sugar to a secondary fermenter?

I brewed a Double style abby or trapist 2 weeks ago this was it......
All grain  Belgian DWC
10 lbs pilsner malt
1 lb aromatic malt
1/4lb special B
1 lb light candy sugar

20 IBU's 1.1 oz of Hallertau (domestic) 5.3 aau

Mashed 140's/30 min.......154/45min....

(pulled decoction)2gal. of grain)
dec. 154/15min....168/15.....boil for 25min..............added back to

mash for a 170/10min. mash out
SG was 1.064, fermented  at  68-70'f ,pitched 3 quart starter with 3787 wyeast.

Any way the beer came out good I racked it to another 6 gallon carboy after 
a week it weighed a little high 1.033.......tastes great little sweet, 
fruity, very smooth over all.

Oh the question that's right/ I wanted to make it darker(should have used 
dark candy sugar) But I was wondering could I do that now? After the beers 
been fermenting? Would I have to add more yeast? {I culture so that's a 
possibility} ;)

It will add some gravity but that's ok with me, and the beer will be speised 
at bottling time in a few weeks.
I plan to boil/chill/an add another lb of dark candy sugar. I'll probably 
rack this beer of again in 2 weeks after second that should have been first 
fermentation. haaaaa

Any comments about my intent will be taken into consideration, thanks

Also as a side point for all those brewing abby's my beer came out with an 
intense caramel flavor which is wonderful (dec.)an from the special b I 
think, However in most of what is written about abby's I have found that the 
majority say the special b provides that raisin, plum flavor in the beers an 
not the yeast?
But This beer did not have those flavors, an so perhaps the dark candy sugar 
will do it?, I'll let you know.
One writer said special B can be over used, so i only put in a 1/4 lb? Maybe 
if you use more you'll get that flavor that i'm looking for......(plumy 
ness)

Any one try to rip off that famous sneaker company for a catch phrase?
sign me............JUST BREW IT!!!!!!





Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 02:45:10 -0400
From: "greg man" <dropthebeer at hotmail.com>
Subject: 2 questions 


Hello all,
Greg Getman (gregman) here Iv'e got two questions for the collective master 
minds to answer..............

First what was the answer given to the guy about the 028 white labs yeast? 
He was saying something about the flavor produced being earthy?

Does any one have some tips or advice about these beast's personality?
I'm planning a brew with them soon so I would appreciate a heads up.

I know It doesn't ferment well below 62'f which is strange for an authentic 
Scottish style yeast? They usually like the colder temps actually I chose it 
because my basement won't get too cold in the winter up here in Connecticut.
Any help would be appreciated.............

Second an this is the tough one, Can you add sugar to a secondary fermenter?

I brewed a Double style abby or trapist 2 weeks ago this was it......
All grain  Belgian DWC
10 lbs pilsner malt
1 lb aromatic malt
1/4lb special B
1 lb light candy sugar

20 IBU's 1.1 oz of Hallertau (domestic) 5.3 aau

Mashed 140's/30 min.......154/45min....

(pulled decoction)2gal. of grain)
dec. 154/15min....168/15.....boil for 25min..............added back to

mash for a 170/10min. mash out
SG was 1.064, fermented  at  68-70'f ,pitched 3 quart starter with 3787 wyeast.

Any way the beer came out good I racked it to another 6 gallon carboy after 
a week it weighed a little high 1.033.......tastes great little sweet, 
fruity, very smooth over all.

Oh the question that's right/ I wanted to make it darker(should have used 
dark candy sugar) But I was wondering could I do that now? After the beers 
been fermenting? Would I have to add more yeast? {I culture so that's a 
possibility} ;)

It will add some gravity but that's ok with me, and the beer will be speised 
at bottling time in a few weeks.
I plan to boil/chill/an add another lb of dark candy sugar. I'll probably 
rack this beer of again in 2 weeks after second that should have been first 
fermentation. haaaaa

Any comments about my intent will be taken into consideration, thanks

Also as a side point for all those brewing abby's my beer came out with an 
intense caramel flavor which is wonderful (dec.)an from the special b I 
think, However in most of what is written about abby's I have found that the 
majority say the special b provides that raisin, plum flavor in the beers an 
not the yeast?
But This beer did not have those flavors, an so perhaps the dark candy sugar 
will do it?, I'll let you know.
One writer said special B can be over used, so i only put in a 1/4 lb? Maybe 
if you use more you'll get that flavor that i'm looking for......(plumy 
ness)

Any one try to rip off that famous sneaker company for a catch phrase?
sign me............JUST BREW IT!!!!!!





Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 06:32:48 -0400
From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: re: yeast blending results/more steam

Mike Spinelli writes ...

>So last night I cooked up a 1.5 gallon DME 1.060 starter and pitched in the
>1/3 pint slurry.  It was at high krausen this morning in a 6 gallon carboy.

You should *never* use such a high gravity for a starter.  Yeast DO NOT
acclimate to high alcohol, CO2 levels and high osmotic pressure in this way.

Brewing yeast do best with 7Pto 10P wort.  Much above 12P and the
growth rate and vigor and resulting yeast health drop off sharply.  I'm
not saying your beer is ruined, but growth and yeast vigor would almost
certainly improve if you diluted that starter.

==

Steam thread ... there are several implementations of code for
steam applications.   If you can find and follow the appropriate
steam code - then you have IMO a good argument that you have a
"safe enough" system.  If OTOH you are putting pieces together
based on a very preliminary analysis of the pressures and temps -
it's extremely unlikely that you have accounted for all safety issues.

Yes amateurs can do it wrong, but I'd trust an amateur to build
a eRIMS to NEC code a lot more than I'd trust an amateur to
spec his own wire & insulation & switch & heating element
designs based on personal experience and a little basic
knowledge.  Same for steam.   Don't try to be a designer
unless you have the credentials. Be safe - use that vast
experience embedded in the appropriate codes.

 -S



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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 06:39:37 -0400
From: "Zachie" <poetrylist_editor at yahoo.com>
Subject: Writers wanted, readers needed


Students, teachers, readers, and writers alike, gather your paper, uncap
your pens, and dust off your reading glasses because Poetrylist is back
and bigger than ever.

If you're a talented ambitious writer looking for a way to share your art
or simply someone who loves poetry in general read on because Poetrylist
will fit your needs.  
Poetrylist is an online newsletter that tackles many aspects of the art. 
Writers are able submit works and read and rate others.  Readers are able
to enjoy the art form 
that they love so much.  

Email Zach back for more info.  Please mention ID# 121




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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 18:19:43 -0400
From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net>
Subject: Yeuglings

Greetings,

We finally have Yuenglings down in NC, on tap and in bottles.  quite a good
everyday beer.

I even know how to pronounce it!

Anyone have a clone recipe, looks like a good beer for a Superbowl party.

My early thoughts and guesses-

about 1.048 sg with a grain bill of about 1/4 Vienna and the rest Pale?

20 IBU's of hops, mostly bittering, a little flavor and aroma..........

Any good lager yeast.............

Thanks in advance,

David B. Craft
Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club
Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery
Greensboro, NC



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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 17:15:45 -0700
From: "Ross D. Potter" <rdpotter at moellerinc.com>
Subject: Glue for homebrew labels

The best three choices I have found are:

1) Plain old Elmer's white glue.  It is a cassein (sp?) or milk protein
based glue that won't start to smell bad or grow moldy.  While it sticks to
most everything (certainly paper to glass), it still washes off with only a
little scrubbing.

2) Plain old school paste (you know, the kind that came in a big glass or
plastic jar with a stick in it during kindergarten art class).  This is
usually a wheat or rice starch-based glue.  Same wash-and-wear qualities as
Elmer's.

3) And, my personal favorite (ta-da): Glue Stick!!  This is also usually a
milk or starch based glue, applies quickly around the label edges, and
doesn't have the same pucker tendency that can happen when you use too much
of the first two.  The sticks come in many sizes, but I found one in the
local office maxdepotstaples store for use in public presentations that must
be nearly half an inch in diameter; makes quick work of the labeling task.
The only care with glue sticks is, unless you go through them really fast,
to seal them in a plastic bag so they won't dry out.

As noted in a previous post, all of these have the same problem with tending
to let go when they are iced down.  Same old debate: convenience vs
permanence.

Ross Potter
Richland, WA

If God were to humiliate a human being, He would deny him knowledge.   - Ali
bin abi Taleb, 6th Century



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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 20:24:15 -0400
From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net>
Subject: TMS conical seal

In Homebrew Digest #4076, Jay Spies noted:

>As for the related thread of sealing the top of a TMS conical, I noticed 
>that Beer Beer & More Beer (NA,YY) has silicone tubing on their site.

That is the kind of material B3 uses for their cylindro-conical fermenter 
seal.  I discussed this with B3's Colin Kaminski, who provided the 
following suggestion for joining the ends.

"We don't make the seals ourselves so I don't know what glue is used. In 
looking at one of the seals it appears to be cyanoacrylate (crazy glue)."

I tried this suggestion, and it worked well.  One challenge when joining 
the ends is to get them correctly aligned, as any misalignment causes a gas 
leak.  To do this, I used a short piece of 1/4-inch rod, which fit snugly 
inside the tubing.  Since crazy glue sticks to just about everything, I 
covered the rod with a single layer of Saran Wrap, and what I couldn't peel 
off after the glue set, I just left there.

Dave in Bel Air, MD





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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 20:32:56 -0500
From: "Mike Brennan" <brewdude at tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Excel Bottle Spreadsheet

I use Excel to generate labels.  I buy generic circular labels from Wal-Mart
of the size to nearly cover the bottlecap.  My method is simple but
effective.  I set the font to 6, row height to 8.25, and column width to
9.5.  In row one I type the style, in row two I put bottle date and %
alcohol.  I then copy this info down as many rows as I want and across as
many columns I want.  I then do a test print, which effectively makes a
template.  Lastly, I tape the corners of the label sheet on top of the test
print in the correct spots where the print lies and run the page through the
printer again.  Whala you have neatly printed labels with as much info as
you need.  Simple but effective.



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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 19:45:01 -0700
From: Scott <sejose at pacbell.net>
Subject: Water heater element for RIMS

Hello!

I just acquired 5 water heater elements new, 4500W at 240V, but the element
is not doubled over.  The total length of the u shaped element (if it were
straightened out), is 22", or in other words the overall element length is
11"

Question is will this be ok to use for RIMS?  Should I be concerned about
scorching my wort?  I will be using a lovely Omega i series PID controller
with a type J thermocouple.

As I said I got five of these, shiny and clean, can't tell if it's plated or
stainless...wait a minute, this just in....magnet does not stick, so must be
stainless...?  The tag indicates Incoloy.....suitable for RIMS?

I figure I only need one as a spare so I have three up for grabs if anyone
is interested, $5 each plus shipping.


Scott Jose




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