HOMEBREW Digest #4156 Tue 28 January 2003

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  Re: starters ("greg man")
  good HB shop in Boston/providence area. (whiplash)
  HSA in starter (whiplash)
  Canadian Cream IPA (Alan McKay)
  RE: Canadian Belgians ("Stephen Silverthorne")
  LHBS Chatter ("Haborak, Kevin")
  Re: Hefe ("Gavin Scarman")
  Priming Choices ("Jodie Davis")
  St. Patrick's Cascadia Cup Homebrew Competition ("Jim Dunlap")
  Re:   HERMS Question (Bill Tobler)
  Update on Ceske Budejovice yeast (Paul Shick)
  re: Yeast Question/bottle culturing ("Steve Alexander")
  Leffe Clone Recipe ("Jay Wirsig")
  Re: HERMS question (David Towson)
  Re: Stop Carboy Chugging (Jonathan Royce) (David Towson)
  Re: Evaporation rate and Mass Transfer (Bill Tobler)
  Re: business ethics ("Dave")
  Re: Corny keg o-ring replacement (David Towson)
  Precision Brewing Systems ("fljohnson at portbridge.com")
  Re:Stop Carboy Chugging (Jennifer/Nathan Hall)
  new Yeast DB feature (Alan McKay)
  Re: Electrical activities?? ("Mike Sharp")
  WZZ Homebrew Competition ("John C. Tull")
  RE- Simple HERMS and Carboy Chugging (Rod Tussing)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 01:39:59 -0500 From: "greg man" <dropthebeer at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: starters >From: "Dan G." <daniel at buffnet.net> >Subject: yeast question > >To: Greg Man > >Here's another question for you (or anyone else) on starters. >What is a good time to let starters work? Hours? Days? I usually do a >starter a couple of hours before the batch and have had good luck but how >much time do you allow? >Thanks. There are a few local geniuses that post here that are much more qualified to answer this question, an no doubt the "best" time to pitch is still debated in many circles. My experience: There are a few factors that come in to play when making a starter that will contribute to how long before it's ready to use. For example the gravity, temperature you ferment at, amount to ferment, yeast strain used, And if step ups are done. Also there is the matter of when to pitch? The major debate seems to be either at high kraeusen or after the yeast have dropped out. Personally I've done both an either works good. However what seems like the most logical is the one that says pitch at high kraeusen. An that's they way I usually try to do it. Now to answer your question. If I use a wyeast 50ml smack pack, I'll make about a 1/2 gallon starter with DME at 1.040 Lightly hoped at say 15-20 IBU's. I make the starter about 2 to 3 days before brew day an let it ferment at 68-70F. NOw If I use a white labs tube I make a smaller starter maybe 1/4 gallon. If I grow off one of my petri dishes then I'll step it up. First a beer bottle with 8 ounces of wort, then after 3 days I dump the contents of the bottle into a 1/2 gallon starter. ( yes I ranch yeast but will not join the thread about the right or wrong of doing so!!!!!) Keep in mind these are all figures for ale's an lagers will all be larger starters I think the rule of thumb is something like 1 1/2 times larger then the volume for an ale? I use about a gallon or so. The problem with you current practice I would think is your not waiting enough time for the starter to ferment? Making a starter the same day as the beer kind of defeats the purpose of making a starter at all. Forgive me If I read your post wrong but that's what It seemed to suggest. You make a starter for many reasons but the greatest is to create a large enough volume of yeast cell's to do the job of converting the wort to beer. That's not to say you can not under pitch, you can, an most of us do, but the taste of the beer may be adversely affected. I'm sorry for rambling but the super bowl was terrible. The only good thing is everyone liked my lager :) If your gonna pitch your yeast try to time it at high or low kraeusen that way some to most of the beer is fermented. There will be more of them to do the job, and they will be hungry for more food at that point. I'd say 2-3 days in advance of making a beer make the starter. An Guys feel free to explain the technical aspect of starter making if you like as well as correct me for any errors in my post....... For some good Info about making starter when an how? Go to Howtobrew.com, there John palmer does a good job of explaining the technical data in an easy to understand manner. Also It's free!!!! gotta love John for that!!!! It was the first book I ever read about home brewing. And I sincerely believe It helped me to avoid making many mistakes in the beginning.....................sorry for the long post.....................how did the raiders loose????????????????????? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 09:45:36 +0200 From: Hayes Antony <HayesA at aforbes.co.za> Subject: ON THE LENGTH OF THE BREW DAY... Marc Sedam wrote, "Assuming I crush the grain and measure out the water prior to the actual brewing day (taking maybe 20 minutes) I can brew up a 10 gallon batch of all-grain beer in just over four hours." Mark listed a Cajun burner, a pump, and a counterflow chiller as having shortened his brew day. I can brew comfortably in six hours from crushing the grain to everything cleaned up. This involves a 90 minute mash programme, a 60 minute sparge, 90 minute boil, 30 minute whirlpool, and 25 minute heat exchange. Three things that reduced my brew day were: 1. Quick disconnects: I use John Guest on the cold side, and dairy fittings on the hot side. I used to use clamps, which took time to tighten, and invariably leaked, or popped off, requiring clean ups, deep breaths, etc. 2. Hot liquor tank with thermostat. I have a 120 litre tank which I fill the night before, and set to 76C. This suites my mash in and sparge, and is warm enough for any additions to the boil. 3. A cleaning basin/bath with ball valve taps (faucets). At my previous house I had a laundry basin, I now have a bath. Being able to clean things as you go in a basin big enough to take your whole boiler helps a lot. I attach Gardena fittings to the tap, and use a hose with a spray gun. Ant Hayes Johannesburg; RSA Confidentiality Warning ======================= The contents of this e-mail and any accompanying documentation are confidential and any use thereof, in what ever form, by anyone other than the addressee is strictly prohibited. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 06:55:57 -0500 From: whiplash at juno.com Subject: good HB shop in Boston/providence area. Sorry this is late but Jim williams asked about a good HB shop in Boston/providence area. If it's not too far of a drive, I would recomend Strange Brew in Marlboro. They have a good selection of grains, extract, equipment, hops and most yeast (does not seem to carry White Labs but has a good selection of Wyeast). I used to live in Marlboro and have been going there for a few years. You should be able to find a adress and directions at www.home-brew.com Just a satisfied customer blah blah blah. Jay Now brewing Rehab HomeBrews at the BoilOver Brauhaus in Walpole, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 06:56:38 -0500 From: whiplash at juno.com Subject: HSA in starter All this recent talk about starters gives me a window to ask a question about something that came up in my brewing practice the other day. Let me preface this by saying that I do not intend to start an argument about wether or not Hot Side Aeration is actually a real problem or not. So please keep that in mind when responding. I was making a starter the other day and I poured the hot wort right into the wine jug I use for starters before I realized what I was doing... It's easier to cool it when it's in the jug, that's why. Anyway, there is a question here somewhere, I'll get to it. I know that they say that problems (such as a bacterial infection) with a starter can get carried over and thus multiplied in the batch of beer you pitch it into but I wondered if that was true about things like HSA? If my starter has off flavors caused by HSA will that multiply in my full size batch (that is hopefully otherwise not suffering from HSA)? My guess is no, that the off flavors would simply be diluted in the full size batch and would therefore probably not be a problem, but I thought I would pose the question to the group and get the opinion of others more learned/expirianced then myself. Jay Brewing Rehab HomeBrews at the BoilOver Brauhaus in Walpole, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 06:59:43 -0500 From: Alan McKay <amckay at neap.net> Subject: Canadian Cream IPA David Crafts talks of the "Cream IPA" he had in Canada. Yes, unfortunately that was probably Alexander Keiths, which was probably a very fine IPA 150 years ago when Keith himself (first mayor of Halifax) was brewing it. But that would all change when Labatt and then later Interbrew got their hands on the beer. It's been about the same as it is now for roughly 60 years (and I have confirmed 5% corn from the brewmaster himself, so you are right-on with the Cream Ale comment) It reminds me of that episode of Star Trek, The Next Generation where the crew ended up going back in time onto the original Enterprise ship. Some fancy photography tricks were done to put the new Star Trek crew into the scenes from the old series. There was one scene with a bunch of the old Klingons, which as you may recall were just guys with their faces painted green and look nothing like they do today. Someone looked at Warf in amazement and said "THOSE are Klingons?!" to which he simply replied "We don't like to talk about it". cheers, -Alan - -- http://www.bodensatz.com/ The Beer Site (tm) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 07:40:02 -0500 From: "Stephen Silverthorne" <s_silverthorne at sympatico.ca> Subject: RE: Canadian Belgians Hi David -> Unibroue brews a range of craft beers from Chambly, Quebec (just outside of Montreal). You can find a wealth of information about the company, and their beers at http://www.unibroue.com/english.cfm. In particular, information on the company: http://www.unibroue.com/brewery/historique.cfm. Fact sheet for La Fin Du Monde (translates as "The End Of The World") here: http://www.unibroue.com/products/fin.cfm and for Maudite (translation is impolite): http://www.unibroue.com/products/maudite.cfm. The whole range of their beers are worh sampling if you can find them near you. I'm lucky enough to live in Quebec and so they are stocked at the corner store. These are the beers I reach for when my consumption has outpaced my brewing! Good luck finding them near you. <- Stephen Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 04:59:50 -0800 From: "Haborak, Kevin" <KHaborak at golder.com> Subject: LHBS Chatter Sorry for the late post, but I have been out of town for the past week. Mark Vernon wrote: Wow Wil you sound like almost as big a jerk as our guy Actually Mark, Wil is a great guy I think you just struck a nerve. He does alot of things for his regular customers. I don't think I ever saw any fliers about clubs in his shop when I lived in Charleston (a few years back), but he did handle the email distribution list that notified everyone of upcoming meetings. Also, he has sposored a brewing day where he supplied the grain for the batch to anyone that showed up to the store with their eguipment to brew. I'm sure he's done other things, but I was only in the area for a year and a half. In fact, earlier this year he helped me to get the upgrade for my version of promash. I had not registered it and did not still have the little paper insert that came with the disk to do so, but he worked with me (eventhough I am now over 300 miles away and support a new LHBS) so that I could get the upgrade. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 00:10:35 +1030 From: "Gavin Scarman" <suba2 at bigpond.net.au> Subject: Re: Hefe >A recent poster stated that the Wyeast 3068 should be fermented at the >lower end. Does this same advice hold for the WhiteLabs 300 / Hefe? Yes, tho that is not a pure weizen yeast, but a blend. However, I have had good results at 18C. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 09:08:52 -0500 From: "Jodie Davis" <JodieDavis at adelphia.net> Subject: Priming Choices To date I've been following recipe instructions for priming using corn sugar or DME as instructed. Does it matter which one uses? Do they lend any flavor to the finished product? I expect not since it's such a small amount. Jodie Davis Canton, GA P.S. My first all grain batch, an English Bitter, is FABULOUS! I popped one last night in honor of the Super Bowl. Yum! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 06:46:48 -0800 From: "Jim Dunlap" <jdpils at attbi.com> Subject: St. Patrick's Cascadia Cup Homebrew Competition Greetings Beerlings, Below is the announcement of my club's annual competition. Last year we had over 150 entries some from states as far east as PA. Cheers, Jim Dunlap Woodinville WA The Cascade Brewers Guild announces the 7th Annual World Renowned St. Patrick's Cascadia Cup Homebrew Competition. The competition will be on Saturday March 8, 2003 at Bear Creek Brewing Co. / Northwest Brewhouse & Grill in Redmond, WA. (http://www.bearcreekbrewing.com/) The competition is BJCP and AHA sanctioned, and as always, we can use as many judges as possible. The competition features cash award certificates for the top three finishers in each flight and more great prizes for first place and Best of Show winners. Up to three winning beers will be brewed by our region's local microbreweries. This is the largest industry-sponsored homebrew event in the State, if not the Pacific Northwest! Competition details, including entry and judge registration wizards, are available on our website: http://www.cascadebrewersguild.org/ Thanks in advance, Iain Ross Cascade Brewers Guild 7th Annual St. Patrick's Cascadia Cup Homebrew Competition Organizer house.cat at verizon.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 09:48:21 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: HERMS Question Greg wants to upgrade to a HERMS and has some questions like "Do your lights go dim when you plug it in?" Well, I hope not. That wouldn't be acceptable. My HERMS is all electric. I have 240 volt elements in the HLT and the Kettle. Three temperature controllers, 3 pumps one 3-way solenoid valve and more manual SS and brass valves then I care to count. The degree of automation depends on how close you want to watch the mash. My system is set up just like you want to build yours. The mash wort goes to the pump, which then pumps up to a three way valve. The 3-way valve directs the hot wort either through the coil in the HLT or to the by-pass and back in the mash tun. My 3-way valve is controlled by an Omega temperature controller. The long thermocouple (18") is just slipped in the top of the mash tun under the lid. It is a PID controller, but I use in the on/off mode. The controller activates the 3-way until the mash reaches setpoint, then swaps the flow to the by-pass. When the mash temperature drops 1% of setpoint, it swaps back. (The 1% is adjustable) The problem doing this manually, is you would have to watch it like a hawk. You can't walk away from it if you have it lined up to the coil in the HLT. Depending on how hot the HLT is, you would overshoot the mash temp in a heartbeat. Using a HERMS, in my opinion, it is very important to control the temperature of the HLT just 5-10 degrees above your mash temperature so you don't over heat the hot wort. I'm not saying you can't do this manually, just that you would really have to pay close attention. Your mash could be at mashout temperatures in 10 minutes if you went and answered the phone and weren't watching. I suppose, if you had manual valves on the inlet of the coil and bypass, you could have a flow through the bypass all the time and take a cut off into the coil to maintain temperature. With good insulation on the mash tun and HLT, your temperatures would stabilize better and you wouldn't have to do too many adjustments. The 3-way in my system goes back and forth umpteen times a session, and I don't pay much attention to it. Every time I look up at the temperature controller, its at setpoint, so I really don't worry about it too much. I hope that helped. I sent you a pdf drawing of my system. Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 11:46:07 -0500 From: Paul Shick <shick at jcu.edu> Subject: Update on Ceske Budejovice yeast Hi all, Some months ago I posted a question about the White Labs seasonal Ceske Budejovice yeast, asking if others had difficulties with excess diacetyl remaining after the primary. After a few months of lagering, I'm glad to say that the resulting Pils has worked out very nicely, with no _noticeable_ diacetyl. There's enough maltiness there that I suspect that some background diacetyl is adding to the perceived maltiness. The beer is now very crisp, with a very malty nose, but the hops still shine through. Unfortunately, I over-bittered just a bit, so that it's too bitter for a real Czech Pils and too malty for a real German Pils, but I like it a lot. So for anyone who was put off by my description of this yeast, go to it. It seems to make a very convincing Pils. Paul Shick Cleveland Hts, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 12:12:07 -0500 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: Yeast Question/bottle culturing Chuck D. asks about culturing yeast from a bottled beer. >I am looking for some advice/help on culturing a >starter from a bottle >of Paulaner HefeWeisin (sp?). I fell in love with this >beer recently Unfortunately for the yeast scavengers, most hefe-weizens use a different bottle conditioning yeast. I don't specifically know about Paulaner. As far as how to culture from a bottle, I've considerable expertise on that. Live yeast cell concentrations in most bottled beers are low. If the beer is filtered the reason is obvious. Even if there is considerable yeast sediment, often shipping and storage have seriously reduced the number of live cells. You can't always directly use beer to streak-out on a plate and expect colony growth. The cell concentration is often too low. My method is to remove about 85% of the beer - leaving any sediment intact. then add about 40% of the bottle volume as fresh sterile wort. Aerate by shaking & mixing with the headspace air and incubate in a warm area - 75F-80F. Of course sanitation procedures must be comparable to those used to create slants. Sanitize the sealed bottle and all tools with a soak in iodophor sol'n. The culture wort should be recently boiled or pressure cooked and then cooled in sanitary conditions. I'd strongly recommend you use gloves - latex disposables are nice, but dishwashing rubber gloves work too. It's much easier to sanitize the glove surface than your skin surface. A face mask is a good idea. Wipe down the work area w/ sanitizer. HEPA filtered air if you have one. You have to think too - it's very easy to unwittingly touch a faucet or a drawer handle and contaminate the work. You pop the cap w/ sanitized opener, flame the bottle lip and pour out 80% of the contents gently. Flame the lip again, then add culture wort to the bottle. Seal and shake vigorously. You could add a fermentation lock, but the growth rate will be extremely slow and a saran & rubber band (both sanitized) make a perfectly acceptable seal. The bubbler or the saran should eventually show a little activity - but *very* little. Under good circumstances you'll see activity in 3-4 days. For a well filtered beer like the Michelob it may take 2 or 3 weeks to see the saran bulge ! Anyway after you see some activity you could streak-out the sample to create a clean culture with good confidence you'll see colonies. If the sample smells clean and was active fairly quickly - it's reasonably safe to step it up through a few starter stages and then pitch it into a batch - assuming it still smells and looks good.. For beginners you can culture from Sierra Nevada Pale Ale quite easily. Many Belgian beers produce good working cultures readily, Chimay for example, but it's hit & miss. I've had difficulty Unibroue - I suspect their yeast autolyzes readily. For a challenge try a filtered beer. I've cultured very nice smelling (low infection level) ferments from Michelob on two occasions. Despite what you read - even filtered beer contains viable cells. If you have the equipment and really good sanitary conditions it's better to place the sample+wort on a stir plate - sealed. You are doing more handling this way and I'd so don't try it unless your sanitation is impeccable. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 14:14:08 -0500 From: "Jay Wirsig" <Jay.Wirsig at usa.dupont.com> Subject: Leffe Clone Recipe Does anyone have a Leffe clone recipe (I'm particularily interested in the yeast source - the rest I can make up with Promash - a great tool for making virtual beer). This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains information that may be privileged, confidential or copyrighted under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for transfers of data to third parties. Francais Deutsch Italiano Espanol Portugues Japanese Chinese Korean http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 14:46:31 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: HERMS question In HBD 4155, Greg Collins asks about using a heat exchanger coil in the HLT with a pump and simple bypass to control mash temperature. I do this. The usual arrangement is to use two solenoid valves to force the flow either through the heating coil or completely around it, but the simple single valve arrangement does work provided there is a significant difference in flow friction between the heating coil and the bypass. Otherwise, there is too much flow through the heating coil, even when the bypass is open. I first prototyped this arrangement using a single hand-operated gate valve, and I found that I could very easily set the temperature where I wanted it, and have it stay there. Then I replaced the hand valve with a single solenoid valve controlled by a Ranco digital on/off controller. I get very good control with the HLT temperature about 10 degrees above the desired mash temperature. My heating coil is about 47 feet of half-inch tubing, and I arranged the bypass to be a short straight path. Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 14:52:39 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Stop Carboy Chugging (Jonathan Royce) Another way to stop chugging when emptying a carboy is to move the neck of the inverted carboy in a circular pattern for a few seconds to get the liquid spinning. That opens an air hole in the middle of the exit stream similar to what you get with a whirlpool. Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 14:03:19 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: Evaporation rate and Mass Transfer Thanks Dan and David for the interesting (and useful) posts on Evaporation rates. I typed bad the other day in my first post. I wrote "My boiloff is up around 15%" when it should have read "My boiloff is up around 15% per hour". Sorry about that. I use Promash to help me keep my numbers straight. Sense my post bounced the first try, I get to edit it a little. Plugging some numbers in the Promash Evaporation Calculator, if you boil off 1.5 gallons/hr, that's 23%/hr for a 5 gallon batch. For a 10 gallon batch, it's only ~12%/hr. And I have noticed that I boil off about the same amount for a 5 gallon batch as I do with a 10 gallon. I use the same kettle, a 15 gallon keg with a 4500 watt element. I think I'll change my settings and go with gallons/hr. Thanks again Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 12:04:35 -0800 From: "Dave" <brewingisloving at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: business ethics Hello, Please note that in my last post in this thread, "someone" was ambiguous. I was referring to Eric Theiner. Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:08:32 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Corny keg o-ring replacement In HBD 4154, Joris Dallaire asks: "I have to replace the o-ring on the gas inlet of some of my cornys. ...I wonder if these can be replaced by standard o-rings found at hardware stores?" I use pin-lock kegs, and have replaced the fitting o-rings , (both the connector seals and the seals between the fitting and the keg) successfully with hardware store items. But you need a store that carries a large assortment. And be sure to take careful measurements. Once you find the correct parts, record the part numbers to save having to repeat the effort next time. Dave in Bel Air, MD Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:26:15 -0500 From: "fljohnson at portbridge.com" <fljohnson at portbridge.com> Subject: Precision Brewing Systems Has Precision Brewing Systems gone out of business? The web site (pbsbeer.com)is no longer out there. Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 16:53:23 -0500 From: Jennifer/Nathan Hall <hallzoo at comcast.net> Subject: Re:Stop Carboy Chugging Yesterday Jonathan Royce wrote: "Today, while emptying sanitizer from my 6 1/2 gallon primary (glass carboy), I finally figured out a solution to the "chugging" problem that occurs when a carboy more than 1/2 full is emptied. This chugging problem has been an annoyance to me since I started brewing because: 1) it causes sanitizer to splash everywhere, rather than pour in a nice smooth stream down the drain and 2) it slows the whole process of emptying the carboy. Anyway, the solution that I "discovered" is to take a length of tubing (mine was 1/2" ID) that is longer than the carboy is tall and insert it into the mouth of the carboy until it reaches the bottom. (The other end of the tube should extend beyond the neck of the carboy.) Now start pouring, keeping the provides a path for make up air; the fluid flows out around it in a steady and quick stream." Another way you can empty liquid quickly from a cylindrical container with a narrow opening is to utilize the time honored method chefs sometimes use- swirl the liquid with the bottle held upside down by moving the base in large circles, kinda like doing the cabbage patch with a champagne bottle held by both hands. You have to have a little arm strength to do this with a full carboy, but it works! Empties the bugger in about 15 seconds. This method also works well for small bottles - saves time when you're emptying your 12 & 16 oz bottles prior to filling. Don't drop the damn thing! Nate Hall Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 17:11:56 -0500 From: Alan McKay <amckay at neap.net> Subject: new Yeast DB feature Hey folks, I have added an amazing new feature to the yeast DB on my site. Users can now add their own usage comments, and view the comments added by others. Right now you must be logged into the site to do either mainly because I do not think it makes sense to accept anonymous comments (you and I both really want to know whose advice we are taking, no?) and I am not yet sure how to separate adding from viewing. But once I get that figured out I hope to make it so you can view comments without being logged on, but must log in to add your own comment. Play around and let me know how it goes! http://www.bodensatz.com/yeastdb/ You only see the comments when viewing a full-detail of the yeast. e.g. click on the "1056" for "Wyeast 1056" cheers, -Alan - -- http://www.bodensatz.com/ The Beer Site (tm) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 14:44:36 -0800 From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Electrical activities?? Joey Guy, talking about "Electrical activities??" suggested: "The most obvious way to get a range of control on the element is to use a control for an electric range burner(cooktop). I think they are called surface burner switches or infinite switches. That way you can have more settings than just hi/lo/off and would be less dangerous. You can get these controls at any major appliance parts store. Just make sure the ratings on it are in excess of your theoretical amperage draw. " Funny you should suggest this. I happened to be looking at said controls on Saturday. The range controls might work pretty well, if you wanted to continuously vary the wattage of your element. The ones I saw were only rated to about 2300 watts, but I suppose you could find them larger. If not, you could use two elements, one at 3500 and one at 2000 watts. Switch the 3500 watt element off when boil is achieved, and fine tune with the 2000 watt. Or, play around with series/parallel connections for the heaters, possibly in combination with the range control. Regards, Mike Sharp Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:35:14 -0800 From: "John C. Tull" <jctull at biodiversity.unr.edu> Subject: WZZ Homebrew Competition Fellow Brewers, I am pleased to announce the WZZ Homebrew Competition 2003 in beautiful Reno, Nevada. This is both an AHA sanctioned and BJCP certified event. We need judges, stewards, and entrants. Last year's event had 97 entries, so we expect this to be a 100+ entry competition this year. The winner will have the opportunity to brew their winning beer at the Great Basin Brewing Company. You can view the details online (follow the "Competition" link), including registering as a judge or steward, as well as registering your entries at this web address: http://jctull.biology.unr.edu/wzz/registration.html An Acrobat file with the details can be had here (316kb): http://jctull.biology.unr.edu/wzz/WZZ%20Competition.pdf NEW INFORMATION We will be using the Barlewine Festival at the Toronado in San Francisco, the excellent annual commercial event headed by Russ Wigglesworth, as an additional drop-off for entries. Tom Baldwin will be present to collect entries and bring them to Reno. This will eliminate the hassle of shipping for anyone that will be attending that event. Just ask for Tom from Reno. Otherwise, ship them to arrive between 8-22 Feb 2003 to the Reno Homebrewer. The WZZHC will be held on Sunday 2 March 2003 at the Silver Peak Restaurant and Brewery. Lunch will be provided for volunteers. There will also be a BJCP exam administered by Dave Sapsis on Saturday 1 March 2003. So plan on taking the test, then judging the next day if you are so inclined. Please let me know in advance if you plan to take the exam. We will need a head count for that as well. Cheers, John C. Tull WZZ P.S. Apologies for cross-posts. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 16:26:41 -0800 From: Rod Tussing <RodT at pplant.UCDavis.edu> Subject: RE- Simple HERMS and Carboy Chugging Greg asks about "simple HERMS" experiences in HBD 4155 - I have a setup similar to the one Greg is contemplating: copper coil in HLT tank with manual valves to direct pumped flow into coil or bypass it. This is a simple setup - aside from the pump there are no electronics whatsoever. Heat is supplied by propane fired Cajun Cooker and my immersion chiller does double duty as the Heat Exchanger in the HLT. I generally do 10-12 gallon batches and although I can ramp up mash temps with my system it takes quite a while to do it. I think the main reason for this is the relatively small temperature differential between the HLT and the Mash. Adding a stirrer to the HLT would probably help as well. I typically brew Pale Ales, Amber Ales, IPAs and Kolsches and did not notice any appreciable benefits to the step mashes vs simple infusion mashing. I do re-circulate and ramp up to mash out but step mashes simply took too long and burned too much fuel without any noticeable benefit. FWIW, YMMV, ETC. Jonathon mentioned a strategy to eliminate chugging of carboys when being emptied. Another, no tool, way to stop the chug-a-lug is to swirl the carboy while inverted and draining to start a vortex. That will make the flow go both faster and smoother. (BUT the best way to eliminate is to eliminate the carboy altogether and ferment in a corny keg - cheaper, easier to carry and essentially unbreakable.) Rod Tussing Sacramento, CA 1975.1 miles , 275.1 Degrees Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
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