HOMEBREW Digest #4187 Wed 05 March 2003

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  5th Anuual Drunk Monk Challenge (Mike Uchima)
  French farm ale ("Charlie Schlismann")
  Re: Reusing the Guinness Widget (RBoland)
  Distance from Kegerator? (Ryan Neily)
  Promash Recipe Archives Online ("Scott D. Braker-Abene")
  Re:  Classic American Pilsner (Bill Tobler)
  Follow-up on low OG (Fred L Johnson)
  Re: DIMS (Drop In Manifold System) ("Mark Rogerson")
  Graph ("A.J. deLange")
  Info on slants (Michael Hartsock)
  Re: Which beers for black and tan (Michael Hartsock)
  corn meal and black and tans (Marc Sedam)
  Re: Fridge for cornies (Steven S)
  Clay Henry III update (Jim Bermingham)
  FermCap (Brian Lundeen)
  Re: Classic American Pilsner (Jeff Renner)
  Charter.net ("Dave Burley")
  SS scrubbies ("Dave Burley")
  Completly Automated All-Grain Brewing (Caryl Hornberger Slone)
  Slants (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com>
  RIMS/HERMS temp control (James Keller)
  HBD SLAMDOWN! - Challenge Made, and Accepted! (mohrstrom)
  Dual Batches ("David Craft")
  "Black & Tan" ("Mike Maag")
  Re: Foaming, frothy ... (Kent Fletcher)
  WLP025 Southwold Ale ("Eric Ahrendt")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2003 21:23:01 -0600 From: Mike Uchima <uchima at pobox.com> Subject: 5th Anuual Drunk Monk Challenge Fellow homebrewers and beer judges, It's nearly spring... that can only mean one thing: It's time for the 5th annual Urban Knaves of Grain Drunk Monk Challenge! The DMC is an AHA sanctioned competition, a qualifying event for the MCAB (Master Championship of Amateur Brewing), and a leg of Midwest Homebrewer of the Year. The competition will be held on Saturday, March 22nd, at Two Brothers Brewing, in Warrenville IL. Entries are being accepted now thru March 15. Please visit the competition website for additional information, forms, and on-line registration: http://www.sgu.net/ukg/dmc/ If you are interested in judging at the DMC, please contact me by e-mail, or by phone at 630-416-9518. I will need to know your current BJCP experience level; what styles you are entering in the competition (if any); and any styles you would prefer to judge (or not judge). Cheers! - -- == Mike Uchima == uchima at pobox.com == http://www.pobox.com/~uchima == Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 21:48:51 -0800 From: "Charlie Schlismann" <racegt6 at attbi.com> Subject: French farm ale I've a hankering for a biere de garde. It's occurred to me that not only have I never made one, I've no clue how to go about it. I'm assuming pils or pale malt and a goodly wheat contribution, low hop rates and ??? yeast. I've searched, yet cannot find consistent answers. I would happily settle for something Jenlain-ish (or better) but need help. I am particularly interested in achieving that musty nose. The more detail the better as I typically brew AG bocks and other lagers and methinks this is an entirely different animal! Or point me in the right direction to learn on my own. TIA mucho, Charlie Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 23:48:03 EST From: RBoland at aol.com Subject: Re: Reusing the Guinness Widget I don't see any reason the Guinness Widget could not be reused. The Guinness widget holds carbonated beer that was forced into it when the bottle or can was capped or sealed. When the container is opened and the pressure drops, the higher pressure beer jets out of the widget. Just like drawing a beer when the keg pressure is too high, CO2 and nitrogen flash out of the beer as it exits the widget and this foaming as well as the agitation the jet itself causes provides the rich texture of Guinness. (See http://publish.uwo.ca/~dhines/mit220/the_beer/widget.htm) When it comes out of your Guinness bottle, the widget will contain some beer, some CO2, and some nitrogen gas, all at atmospheric pressure. At this point, it is still sanitary. What I would do is immediately take it out of the bottle and place it in beer, just to prevent air, water, or anything else from entering it. When I was ready to use it, I'd drop it in a bottle and pour the beer on top of it. It shouldn't matter whether you are bottle priming or counter-pressure filling. When the bottle is capped, the elevated pressure in the bottle will force a beer mixture into the widget. When the beer has been fully carbonated for a while, the widget should be fully "charged" and ready to let go when the bottle is opened. Good luck, and we want a full report. Bob Boland St. Louis Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 23:52:06 -0500 (EST) From: Ryan Neily <ryan at neily.net> Subject: Distance from Kegerator? I am in the middle of building a kegerator for my cornie kegs and also small torpedo kegs. What I am wondering is if I can get away with purchasing a clamp mount tower with faucet and having it clamp to my bar 4-5 feet away instead of having the faucet coming directly out of my fridge. I would run the beer line from the back of the fridge under the bar, and up into a nice center mounted tower. Anyone know what the length limit is for beer hose attaching to a faucet that is not cooled in any way? I am assuming you want it short, but then how short? Anyone doing this with any success, or should I just deal with the tap coming out of the fridge? - -- Ryan Neily ryan at neily.net Random Quote: The things that interest people most are usually none of their business. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 21:36:43 -0800 (PST) From: "Scott D. Braker-Abene" <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: Promash Recipe Archives Online Hi All, I have recently put together a Recipe Archive for Brewers to upload and share their ProMash files. You can find it here: http://www.brewrats.org/Recipe_Exchange You do not have to log in to use all the features (like other sites) and it has a comments section where brewers can interact with each other on any given recipe. Over the next month I hope to finish up the HTML'izer that will convert ProMash .REC files on the fly. That is if my employer gives me a little "breathing room" from the never ending travel hell. What makes my new site different? Well... Not only is it 'Database Driven'... It patronizes you with free shipping that was made possible by 'our good customers'. It also has a Super Duper Backend PrOH-CessOR that is charged by actual working North Pole Elves! Or Elvis's I really don't remember all the facts don'tchaknow... Karl Keyes and the Carolina Brew Masters have also put together an excellent ProMash Recipe Archive. You can find it here: http://hbd.org/cbm/prom.html I hope that you use it and enjoy it. Thanks Jeff for a great program. C'ya! -Scott "New Found Plaid For Skotrat" Abene ===== "My life is a dark room... One big dark room" - BeetleJuice http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat - Skotrats Beer Page http://www.brewrats.org - BrewRats HomeBrew Club Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 05:13:36 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: Classic American Pilsner Dan wants to brew a CAP and is looking for a source of degermed corn meal. Dan, I use Polenta made by Bob's Red Mill. You can get it in most grocery stores. It comes in a small 24 oz bag. It doesn't say degermed on the package, but I called up the Mill when I first started using it and asked. According to Jeff, you have to boil it a little longer than corn meal. And if you search their web site and look at all the grains they make, the brewing potential is just out-of-site!! https://www.bobsredmill.com/ This is a fun brewday, and if planned out, doesn't take much longer at all than a regular session. Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 08:01:07 -0500 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson at portbridge.com> Subject: Follow-up on low OG Andy has posted the results of his experiments to hit his target gravity. I think Andy is attempting to improve his extraction efficiency, but I was not certain that was the issue--only assuming since his variables were methods of milling. I fear Andy may be confusing issues of extraction efficiency with other variables in the brewing process that affect his "original gravity", so I felt I should post for Andy's sake and perhaps other new all-grainers whose first attempts don't reach the gravity they desired. If the following isn't the issue in your case, Andy, please disregard this. Andy referred to his "original gravity" and "target gravity" in several places, e.g.: > The first batch I ran through my mill twice, at the suggestion of several > members. > - Target OG was 1042 > - Actual OG was 1048 > - Sparging run-off time was about the same as previous batches. I fear that there may be confusion among readers of what Andy was actually referring to. Ordinarily, one refers to "original" gravity as the gravity of the wort going into the fermentor or at least the gravity after the boil, and "target" gravity usually means the desired gravity going into the fermentor. Andy, if this is actually what you were referring to, then there is potential for you to become mislead from the results of what I assume was your "extraction efficiency" experiment. The "original gravity", i.e., the gravity going into the fermentor is not merely a function of extraction efficiency. If one is trying to measure extraction efficiency, it is important to measure the gravity and volume of the wort BEFORE the boil. That will give you a true measure of the amount of extract you have achieved with the grind/mash process you used. There are too many other variables that have nothing to do with extraction efficiency that occur between runoff collection and your putting the final wort into the fermentor. Andy, if the definition of "Target OG" and "Actual OG" in your last post was different than what I have assumed, please disregard, but you may wish to more carefully use these terms in the future. - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 07:19:13 -0600 From: "Mark Rogerson" <Mark.Rogerson at RandyStoat.com> Subject: Re: DIMS (Drop In Manifold System) Steve Alexander says: > After thinking about the problem it was obvious that we want the > d*mned manifold totally out of the way during heating and mashing > but it needs to be in place for the vorlauf and lauter so why not .... I went through all these machinations as well and ended up with a similar--though not over-the-top (which requires a syphon or self-priming pump)--solution. My manifold is made from copper tubing in a square configuration. It's soldered everywhere except at the T fitting which acts as a hinge point. Look here: http://www.randystoat.com/femtobrewery/rsf_tour/images/outstalledmanifold.jp g and here: http://www.randystoat.com/femtobrewery/rsf_tour/images/installedmanifold.jpg During the mash and heating, it's raised vertically out of the way. After the final heating cycle, just swing it down flat against the bottom of the tun. The sad thing is how long it took for such a simple solution to dawn on me. - -- Mark Rogerson President/Dishwasher Randy Stoat Enterprises Houston, Texas http://www.RandyStoat.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 13:23:05 +0000 From: "A.J. deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Graph I've put the chart that Martin referenced out on www.clubphoto.com as a jpeg (not the best way to do it, I grant you, but at least anyone interested can have a look and get the idea). Go to the clubphoto URL and then use ajdel at mindspring.com (whih is, BTW, no longer my ISP) to get to my albums and go to the last image in the "sample album". If anyone wants this thing as an EPSF or .pdf drop me an e-mail. Just one comment on the rest of Martin's post. He mentioned titrating his water with acid to see how much is required to establish a particular pH. This is how alkalinity is defined i.e by titration to pH 4.3. The alkalinity is the number of milliequivalents of acid per liter required to reach it (expressed in milliequivalents per liter - multiply by 50 to get ppm as calcium carbonate). A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 06:21:32 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Hartsock <xd_haze at yahoo.com> Subject: Info on slants John asked about slants: I pour my own for far less than $1 a pop, but for those of you with the extra dough, I'd go with cynmar corp (www.cynmar.com). Someone mentioned them a few weeks ago for general scientific supply. They have potato dextrose agar prepared tubes for 20 for $20. This is the media designed for yeasts. If you must have malt agar (i don't know why), they have a phone number 1(800)223-3517, where they can get many specialty media direct from the supplier. When I called last week, they said they could get malt extract agar and "beer" agar (whatever that means). But I don't know why you couldn't just use PDA. mike ===== "May those who love us, love us. And those that don't love us, May God turn their hearts. And if he doesn't turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles So we'll know them by their limping." Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 06:27:20 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Hartsock <xd_haze at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Which beers for black and tan This should answer all your questions: http://www.ivo.se/guinness/bnt.html YEAH! I have a guiness clone in the ol' fermenter now! mike ===== "May those who love us, love us. And those that don't love us, May God turn their hearts. And if he doesn't turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles So we'll know them by their limping." Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 09:26:49 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: corn meal and black and tans I have had great success with using coarse ground corn meal (germ and all) in my CAPs. I have also used polenta, yellow grits (prob the same as corn meal), flaked corn, and Corn Flakes(TM) and come up with very tasty CAPs. The easiest place to find any of these is a co-op. This may be easier in the south where yellow corn grits are pretty common. Save that, try an Italian market where they sell polenta meal. As for the black and tan, think about two beer styles that you would drink separately. Then plan them out such that the OG of the two are sufficiently separated. Guinness and Bass work well since Guinness is relatively low in alcohol and Bass is more "normal." You can't go wrong with a dry Irish stout as the "black", but there's nothing that says a schwarzbier or even a porter won't work. Further, there's nothing that says the "black" has to be on top! Why not make an imperial stout and be happy to have it rest on the bottom? It's been a while since I did this at home (but I have), yet I'll suggest to make two styles of beer whose OGs are at least 0.025 apart. Who else thinks that a vienna and imperial stout combination sounds delicious? Or CAP and schwarzbier? Ooohhhh, or how about porter and Duvel? I'm on a roll...how about a Blonde and Blonde of CAP and Duvel? Yum! - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 09:59:57 -0500 (EST) From: Steven S <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: Re: Fridge for cornies I bought a complete "kegerator" awhile back. Its a modified Danby fridge in black, DAR452 is the model. Homedepot carried this fridge a while back but i'm not certain they still do. I found the pin locks I had access too were too wide to fit side by side without taking off that little side wall piece. It might be possible to cram two in on a diagonal. I just used ball lock corneys. You can store some beer in bottle on the back shelf if you dont mind tipping kegs. here is a pic of my unit when i got it http://www.403forbidden.net/Pics/Beer_and_Kegs_Nov_2001/ and here with kegs in it (tight fit but works great) http://www.403forbidden.net/Pics/July_2002_Assorted/ Personally i'm going to finish out the area under the stairs in the basement into a "walk-in" cooler. It should fit 12 kegs and still have some room for a couple of carboys. I'll just run the tap lines to the wall where the taps/bar will be! Steven St.Laurent 403forbidden.net [580.2,181.4] Rennerian just moved so coordinates are a bit off. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 09:03:13 -0800 From: Jim Bermingham <jbham6843 at netscape.net> Subject: Clay Henry III update I've received several inquiries over the past several months about the trial of Jim Bob Hargrove of Lajitas, TX. As you may recall Mark Tumarkin being from Florida was concerned about the disturbing political scandal in Lajitas. It seems that old Jim Bob castrated Clay Henry III, the Mayor of Lajitas. Jim Bob had become upset with Clay Henry when the Mayor drank Jim Bob's Lone Star longneck. The background of the events leading up to the trial can be found in digest 4010 dtd. 10 Aug. 2002. Now for the update. Although no longer Mayor, Clay Henry III was defeated in the last election by David (Bubba) Tinsley in a 12,000 to 1 landslide that set the town of 200 reeling. Clay Henry is still going strong in his pen just outside the Lajitas Trading Post and is swiziling down 20 to 30 beers a day. Jim Bob was convicted of the heinous deed at his trial in the nearby town of Alpine. The jury was out just long enough to drink a beer when they came back in to render their verdict of guilty as charged. Jim Bob sentence was to furnish Clay Henry with a six pack of Lone Star Longnecks a week for the remainder of Clay Henry's life. Bill Valentine, the owner of the trading post was heard to say that might just be a long time. Clay Henry Jr. lived to be 22 years old and could slug down 35 to 40 beers a day. Clay Henry III is only 6. "Beer kills you, but it does it slow." Jim Bermingham Millsap,TX Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 09:27:20 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: FermCap Our local brew pub is now pushing up daisies, so one of the LHBS picked up some "professional" brewing stuff from the owner. One such item was a nearly full 1 litre bottle of FermCap, which I greedily snapped up for $20. I figure I've got a life time supply now. I was surprised by how thick it is. The anti-foam I'm used to getting was fairly watery, this stuff is like sludge in comparison. Anyway, I used some in the boil kettle (about 1/4 tsp) and it seemed to do the job. No massive foam up. In the fermenter, it seemed to be another story. Again about 1/4 tsp which slowly dripped off the measuring spoon in little blobs (did I mention this stuff is thick?) that just sort of sat there without really spreading out. It did not seem to have the desired effect while I ran my aquarium pump. The foam still built up into a stiff heap several inches thick. Be interesting to see what happens when (if) the yeast starts building a krausen (don't believe for a second that White Labs tubes of lager yeast are "pitchable", not for cold pitching like I do anyway). So, am I using this stuff right? Cheers Brian Lundeen Brewing at [819 miles, 313.8 deg] aka Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 10:41:05 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Classic American Pilsner Dan Gross" <degross at starpower.net> writes from Olney, MD: >was pleased to find White Labs WLP833 German Bock (aka Ayinger) >yeast in stock. It's a great yeast! Won't hurt to make a starter ahead of time and decant it off the yeast before using (see my recent post). Lagers need lots of yeast. Of course, since Ayinger is new, it's pretty fresh and healthy. >They had flaked maize too, but I >resisted because I want to try the double mash technique described by Jeff >Renner in his Sept/October 2000 Zymurgy article about CAP. I would like to >find degermed corn meal. Does anyone have a suggestion where to start >looking? I checked in one health food store and everything they have >contains the germ, plus it is all ground fine like flour. Even the grocery store corn meal like Quaker is OK, but it is so fine that it gets under my false bottom. But it does work. Bulk food stores are a possibility. I just get mine in a 50 lb. bag from my bakery supplier. Costs less than $10 and I just share it with the club members. It isn't all that coarse, just not as fine as Quaker, etc, which is nearly flour. Polenta works well, too. This is essentially very clean, pure, very coarse grits. A good deal pricier, though. Do avoid the whole (not degermed) meal as you ahve. It can get rancid, and doesn't have as high an extract since there is all the other stuff besides pure endosperm. Grocery store grits may be a problem, too, as they contain iron. They are also usually white, and I like the flavor of yellow corn. Let us know how it turns out. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 11:11:33 -0500 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Charter.net Brewsters: Pat, I have Charter.net and they caught me up on the 27th. I haven't been o/l for about a week so didn't go through the panicked shock of <no HBD> withdrawal symptoms I have experienced this in the past ( remember those turbulent days?) This explains the puzzling effect of getting my HBD's out of sequence, which I did note when I signed on. Go figure. Thanks for your attention to this matter. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 11:39:27 -0500 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: SS scrubbies Brewsters: Metallurgist John Palmer believes green scrubbies are the answer for cleaning SS vessels, and so do I, but wonder if Stainless Steel Wool scrubbies now available as "non rusting SS cleaning pads" would be OK to use?? Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 12:22:11 -0500 From: Caryl Hornberger Slone <chornberger10 at comcast.net> Subject: Completly Automated All-Grain Brewing I'm in the design phase of a completly automated brewing setup. I have a couple of concers having to do with sparging: So I have a mash tun with a false bottom. I could use a heater in the mash tun and slowly stir the mixture to distribute heat, or I could pump the wort out and recirculate it through a heater. With the stirrer, I'm afraid I'll push grain under my false bottom. With the rims, I'm afraid I'll suck grain under the false bottom. Both ways, I'll have a good possibility of getting a stuck mash by grain getting where it shouldn't be. How does everyone out there handle this problem? Also, I wondering if there are any setups that anyone knows of where you put enough water for mash and sparge in one tank, grain in another, hit GO. Wehn you come back hours later, you have wort ready to be boiled. I'm even thinking about automating the boiling step as well, but a hop hopper seems a bit extravagent (aka expensive). I'm tryting to build a prototype for under $1000. If anyone wants to discuss any of this with me, provate e-mail is welcomed. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 12:53:35 -0500 From: "Jones, Steve (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com> Subject: Slants Try www.grapeandgranary.com for pre-poured slants. I haven't bought any in over a year, but they used to be $.85 each. Steve Jones, Johnson City, TN State of Franklin Homebrewers http://hbd.org/franklin [421.8 mi, 168.5 deg] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 15:52:59 -0500 From: James Keller <kellerj at kenyon.edu> Subject: RIMS/HERMS temp control Like many others, I am also in the midst of constructing a recirculating mash system. After laying out a bundle for a PID controller with all the bells and whistles, I feel that I need to design in a safeguard from the oft-debated overheat condition. [For those asleep for the last week, the question is do I monitor the temperature at the heater exit and let the mash stay cool?...or do I monitor the temperature of the mash and let the brewhouse burn down when the flow is restricted?] Fortunately, Cole Parmer has just started a promotion on ON-OFF temperature controllers. For $39 you get a 16A SPST relay, deadband control, and a probe (probably not waterproof). http://www.coleparmer.com/promotions/promotions.asp I'm ordering mine today. Now I can burn the place down and then adjust the setpoint to make certain it doesn't happen again :) [Calvin & Hobbes reference] No affiliation with Cole Parmer or its subsidiaries. Purchase at your own risk. -J. Keller Mt Vernon, OH [148.4, 151.5 Rennerian] Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 16:21:44 -0500 From: mohrstrom at core.com Subject: HBD SLAMDOWN! - Challenge Made, and Accepted! Sean has offered duelling pistols at dawn, and I have accepted! As this seems to have turned into an outdoor affair, we'll need some fund-raising method other than the usual "admission at the door". Can we trust you folks to pass the hat for the HBD, and pony up large when it reaches your hand? We'll meet in the lobby of the Holiday Inn - O'Hare, bright 'n' early. Sunrise will be at 5:16 AM on Saturday June 21st. This is really going to cut into the time allotted for the floating SMS tasting ... Oh well, it's the least I can do for the HBD! <reverb> BE THERE!!! </reverb> Mark in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 17:04:11 -0500 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: Dual Batches Greetings, I just finished up a 10 gallon batch that I split into two very distinct beers, a Vienna and Dubbel. In studying the guidelines I found the grain and hop bills to be very close. I just added 1 lb of dark candi sugar that I boiled on the stove to the dubbel. With the different yeasts and fermetation temps, I think I have a winner here. Any other ideas for dual batches?? Regards, David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 07:18:35 -0500 From: "Mike Maag" <maagm at rica.net> Subject: "Black & Tan" Brian guesses correctly, the relative FG of the 2 beers is the key. HOWEVER, since you are doing this for St. Patricks Day, the drink is called a "Half & Half" not "Black & Tan". B &T is the name given to the British soldiers who quelled the "Bloody Sunday" and other, uprisings in Ireland. So put the higher FG beer on the bottom, (typically Bass as you point out), then pour on the lower FG beer (typically Guinness) using the spoon trick. The closer the FG, the more careful the pour. Slainte, Mike Maag (Irish on my Mother's side, German on my Father's, born to drink beer!) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 17:12:29 -0800 (PST) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Foaming, frothy ... Charles is getting wild foaming form his chest/kegerator, and suspects infection. Hi Chip, Do you have any OTHER symptoms of possible infection? You only mention the foaming, but in my experience any beer infected enough to be wildly foamy also TASTES infected, and it's not subtle. If excessive foaming is your only problem, I suspect it IS related to your regulator, but not infection. If you had beer run back into the regulator it may have gummed up the mechanism and cause poor pressure control. Excessive foaming in draft systems is USUALLY related to either temperature or pressure fluctuations. Given that your beer lines are inside the cooler, pressure is the more likely culprit. Have you tried observing the output pressure gauge while pouring a pint? Hope that helps, Kent Fletcher Brewing in So Cal Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 20:04:44 -0500 From: "Eric Ahrendt" <Rock67 at PeoplePC.com> Subject: WLP025 Southwold Ale Hello all. I'm trying White Labs Platinum WLP025 Southwold Ale yeast right now with an ESB. I'd like to throw a brown or porter on top of the yeast cake this weekend. Anybody have a favorite recipe (all grain) that might benefit from this yeast? Thanks in advance. Eric Ahrendt Fremont, OH Return to table of contents
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