HOMEBREW Digest #4188 Thu 06 March 2003

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  Jethro on FermCap ("Rob Moline")
  Jethro on Guinness Widgets ("Rob Moline")
  Re: Promash Recipe Archives Online (Teresa Knezek)
  Ayinger yeast ("Dan Gross")
  RE: Distance from Kegerator? (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com>
  Plambic Digest Accident ("John Misrahi")
  Re: French farm ale (Jeff Renner)
  Deadband Controller ("Reddy, Pat")
  Re: Reusing the Guinness Widget (Mark Kempisty)
  RE: Completly Automated All-Grain Brewing (Mark Alfaro)
  FermCap (Paddock Wood)
  Scrubbies (Richard Foote)
  Thanks! ("Adam Wead")
  correction to pitching rates (Paddock Wood)
  WZZ Homebrew Comp 2003 Results ("John C. Tull")
  TMS And Naked Greed (rscotty)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 23:33:48 -0500 From: MATTHEW HAHN <mchahn at earthlink.net> Subject: GUINNESS WIDGET I got the book BEER CAN CHICKEN as a gift. It contains recipes that call for an open can of beer to be inserted into a whole chicken on the grill. As I rarely drink canned beer, I am wondering if it is safe to do this with a Guinness or other can that contains a widget. Anybody try it? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 00:27:11 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: Jethro on FermCap Jethro on FermCap >From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> >Subject: FermCap >Our local brew pub is now pushing up daisies, so one of the LHBS picked up .some "professional" brewing stuff from the owner. One such item was a nearly .full 1 litre bottle of FermCap,<SNIP> >I was surprised by how thick it is. The anti-foam I'm used to getting was >fairly watery, this stuff is like sludge in comparison.<SNIP> >So, am I using this stuff right? Yes, you are using it right... I have been using FC for years, buying it by the gallon from Crosby & Baker, and some time ago acquired some of the thick stuff. After a few calls to C&B, and some trans-atlantic calls and faxes, I received replacement FC, in exchange for a sample that was sent back to Ireland for analysis. To date, I have no reports on the returned sample, so my speculation is just that this particular batch was manufactured out of viscosity standards....and can be used, as I did, in exactly the same manner as normal FC, except that it's a pain to use. Literally, "Thick as a Brick." Performance in the kettle and fermenter met requirements. BTW, thanks go to Quest-Siebel Ireland, Crosby and Baker, and especially Bob Makuch of C&B for their excellent customer service. Gump "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/25/2003 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 00:42:23 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: Jethro on Guinness Widgets Jethro on Guinness Widgets From my understanding, a dose of liquid nitrogen in the can or bottle immediately prior to sealing/capping is the mechanism necessary for satisfactory performance from the widget. This forces the product and CO2/N2 into the widget. Apart from the difficulty involved in cleaning the interior of the re-used widget, I wonder if bottle conditioned or even force carb'd and CP filled bottles would produce the desired effect. I suspect that easier success would be gained by utilization of a cask/beer engine regime...or N2/CO2 blend for nitrogenation/carbonation along with a Guinness faucet...for less hass. Gump "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/25/2003 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2003 22:55:07 -0900 From: Teresa Knezek <teresa at mivox.com> Subject: Re: Promash Recipe Archives Online On or thereabout 3/5/03, Request Address Only - No Articles spoke thusly: >It also has a Super Duper Backend PrOH-CessOR that is charged by >actual working North Pole Elves! Or Elvis's I really don't remember >all the facts don'tchaknow... It would have to be the Elvii, not North Pole Elves. I live not 30 miles from North Pole, AK, and I guarantee most of the beer drinkers in N.P. are not only human (rather than elvish), but most wouldn't know a good beer if it exploded in their bathroom closet during bottle conditioning... I do know of one good homebrewer in N.P., but he definitely isn't an elf, and I don't think he worked on your site. ;-) - -- ::Teresa : Two Rivers, Alaska:: [2849, 325] Apparent Rennerian "It has been my experience that folks who have no vices have very few virtues." -- Abraham Lincoln Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 06:39:43 -0500 From: "Dan Gross" <degross at starpower.net> Subject: Ayinger yeast Thanks to all who responded to my question about a source for degermed corn meal to be used in Classic American Pilsner. Now I have a yeast question. I have always had trouble with lager yeast and I need some tips on handling the yeast before pitching. As I said in an earlier post I found Ayinger yeast (WLP833 German Bock) and I have made a half gallon starter in a gallon jug on Sunday evening. It has quieted down after three days and I wonder if I should 1) just let it be at 64F until I brew on the weekend 2) move it to the fridge and drop all the yeast at 45F until the weekend 3) decant and add 1/2 gallon fresh wort at this point, (I would do it tonight which is Wednesday) then chill Saturday night, and decant Sunday before pitching. There is probably 4 or 5 ounces of slurry at the bottom of my gallon jug now (I pitched two tubes of yeast). Is that going to be enough or should I step it up? Dan Gross Olney, Md Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 09:07:20 -0500 From: "Jones, Steve (eIS) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com> Subject: RE: Distance from Kegerator? Ryan, Rather than concern yourself with the distance of an uncooled line, why not cool it? Here's what you could do for a rather minimal expense: 1. Cut a 3" diameter hole in the side of the kegerator & mount a 3" PVC pipe flange 2. Run a piece of 3" PVC pipe with a piece of 2" PVC pipe inside of it from the kegerator to your draft tower 3. Run your beer lines in the space between the 3" & 2" pipes. 4. Mount a 2" PC fan on the end of the 2" pipe inside the kegerator to circulate cold air thru it. 5. Insulate the whole thing with 3" pipe insulation, or wrap with other insulation of your choice. This will circulate cold air from the kegerator thru the whole assembly, keeping your beer lines cool. Hope this helps, Steve Jones, Johnson City, TN State of Franklin Homebrewers http://hbd.org/franklin [421.8 mi, 168.5 deg] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 09:45:11 -0500 From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: Plambic Digest Accident Hi all, Just to let you know that due to a computer accident, the archives from the Plambic digest, as well as any subscribers who joined after the date february 13th were deleted. Any one interested in re-joining the list is invited to do so of course john misrahi [892, 63] Apparent Rennerian (km) "Actually John it uses a very complex algorithm to determine your average time between "Generate" clicks, and from that can it figures out how drunk you are, and what styles of beer you prefer. Obviously, you prefer obscure Belgians!" - Drew Avis Seen on a tee shirt - "The internet is full. Go away!" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 09:37:56 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: French farm ale "Charlie Schlismann" <racegt6 at attbi.com> writes >I've a hankering for a biere de garde. Me too! Please let us know what you might find out. I think some kind of Belgian yeast might work, but so many would be so wrong. Sad that the Yeast Culture Kit Co. is out of business. Some years ago I shared a wonderful bottle of biere de garde with Dan that he cultured the yeast from. It was hand carried from a French brew-pub or micro (yes, there are a few) by a neighbor across the street from him. WhiteLabs will be getting Dan's entire collection, but I don't know what they'll be doing with it. I think your best bet is to try to culture from a fresh bottle. I think that your guess of pils and wheat malts sounds good, with low hops from Hallertauer. Maybe a little sugar. OG probably around 1.080. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 09:04:36 -0600 From: "Reddy, Pat" <Pat.Reddy at mavtech.cc> Subject: Deadband Controller Heads up J. Keller, >Fortunately, Cole Parmer has just started a promotion >on ON-OFF temperature controllers. For $39 you get >a 16A SPST relay, deadband control, and a probe (probably >not waterproof). A deadband controller is not the same (not even close) to the PID controllers you've seen so much talk about here the last few days. A deadband controller is just as it sounds. Set your desired temp to 150 with an 8 degree deadband and your heating element (RIMS) will go on until 154 is reached and then shut off until the temp drops down to 146 then ramp the temp up to 154 again. Or, in HERMS terms...the heat exchange solenoid will remain open until your probe, where ever it may be, reads 154 then switch to the bypass until the low side of 146 in sensed. This would no doubt cause a serious temperature fluctuation exactly like Dennis Collins described in his attempt to discredit us superior HERMS brewers :) . A PID controller on the other hand will learn to switch it's output(s) on and off to MAINTAIN a setpoint temperature by applying it's control output (0-100%) to the amount of time the output(s) are held on. This equates to little, if any in some designs, temperature fluctuation. Granted PID controllers are expensive IF YOU BUY THEM ANYWHERE ELSE BUT eBay! I bought a brand new $200 CAL 9900 temp controller a few months ago for under $40. For all you eBay illiterates out there...simply go to eBay and Search with 'Temperature Controller' and maybe such names as 'CAL', 'Omega', or 'Watlow'. eBay is the home-brewer-on-a-budgets best friend. I just picked up a brand new Johnson A-19 thermostat for a homemade lagering fridge for $38, a 1 lb. bag of PolyClar for $6, and a brand new 1/2 MPT stainless RTD probe for $16. So there's my one time plug for the greatest shopping mall in your neighborhood. Adios. Pat Reddy MAVERICK Technologies Controls Engineer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 10:25:17 -0500 From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com> Subject: Re: Reusing the Guinness Widget I was reading Bob Boland's note about reusing the Guiness widget and starting to think how you would purge the air out of it assuming you had saved a bunch. He pointed out that if you use it right away it will stay sanitary. But just as important, it should not have any oxygen in it. Bob's method should definitely achieve that. I assume the manufacturing process sanitizes these things but I wonder if Guiness purges them with CO2/N2 before using them. Using N2 might be a real easy way of getting it into the bottle. - -- Take care, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 08:32:44 -0800 From: Mark Alfaro <malfaro at kyocera-wireless.com> Subject: RE: Completly Automated All-Grain Brewing In HBD# 4187, Caryl writes: With the stirrer, I'm afraid I'll push grain under my false bottom. With the rims, I'm afraid I'll suck grain under the false bottom. Both ways, I'll have a good possibility of getting a stuck mash by grain getting where it shouldn't be. How does everyone out there handle this problem? Hi Caryl, I have a RIMS system with a mash tun made from a 15.5 gallon Sanke Keg. To fabricate the tun, I cut the bottom out and use the top opening where the draw tube used to go as my center drain. I welded a tank spud over the end of the neck. The tank spud has a 1/2" FPT opening in it to which I threaded my wort outlet manifold. I fabricated a hinged, perforated stainless false bottom with standoffs that elevate the false bottom to where it is level with the weld seam that attaches the straight walled portion of the keg to the domed end of the keg. I made a filter out of stainless mesh that is shaped like a sock. This filter fits snugly into my center drain to catch any particles that get past the false bottom. This arrangement works very well and keeps all the particles in the mash tun and out of my pump. Regards, Mark Alfaro Chula Vista, CA 1950,262.1 AR Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 12:33:15 -0600 From: Paddock Wood <experts at paddockwood.com> Subject: FermCap Brian wrote: I was surprised by how thick it is. The anti-foam I'm used to getting was fairly watery, this stuff is like sludge in comparison. Anyway, I used some in the boil kettle (about 1/4 tsp) and it seemed to do the job. No massive foam up. In the fermenter, it seemed to be another story. Again about 1/4 tsp which slowly dripped off the measuring spoon in little blobs (did I mention this stuff is thick?) that just sort of sat there without really spreading out. It did not seem to have the desired effect while I ran my aquarium pump. The foam still built up into a stiff heap several inches thick. Be interesting to see what happens when (if) the yeast starts building a krausen (don't believe for a second that White Labs tubes of lager yeast are "pitchable", not for cold pitching like I do anyway). - ------------------------------------- Brian, in a kettle the boiling action dissipates this Silica goop (for lack of a better technical word), but in fermenters it is usually applied in spray form and is diluted to a workable viscosity. It can be diluted in water or cool wort, but should only be diluted right before use. If stored undiluted in a fridge (between 5C and 12C) it has a shelf-life of one year. As for rate of usage, I put some info on my web site http://www.paddockwood.com/catalog_chemicals.html#WATER but the rate varies from 1 to 8gm per HL. While I am here, high levels of aeration require increased dose levels of FermCap too. On the not quite related point of yeast pitching levels, I believe you need to increase pitching rates for "cold pitching". DCL suggests approximately 1.5 gms per L at 12C but 3 gms per L at 9C. Steve Cavan -- in vino veritas, at in cerevisiae voluptas Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 14:57:53 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Scrubbies Dave Burley writes: >Metallurgist John Palmer believes green scrubbies are the answer for cleaning >SS vessels, and so do I, but wonder if Stainless Steel Wool scrubbies now >available as "non rusting SS cleaning pads" would be OK to use?? I have used the same ss scrubby that I purchased at a commercial restaurant supply for, I swear, the last 15 years. Of course, it's considerably smaller than when it was new. I try to limit it's use to cleaning ss other than fermenters. It really is rather course and suspect it could cause scratches and crannies as potential habitat for little nasties. For stubborn stuff (scorched areas--doh!), I'll use it first, then fininsh with something less course, like a green or white scrubby. BTW, white scrubbies have been recommended to me by professional brewers as preferred for cleaning fermenters, as green scrubbies were seen as too course for this. Also, if at all possible, scrub in the direction of the "grain" as opposed to across it, which can cause cross-hatching. Hope this helps, Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Thinking "6% solution" in Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 13:45:44 -0700 From: "Adam Wead" <a_wead at hotmail.com> Subject: Thanks! Dear All: Just wanted to say a big thanks to all the fridge recommendations I've gotten. I've narrowed my choices down to the Danby DAR452 model, and a Kenmore 3.6 cu. ft. model available from Sears. Target sells a Danby model fridge, but I'm not sure if it's the same one. Fortunately, Sears and Target are in the same mall here. brewfully yours, adam wead (bloomington, in) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 15:08:20 -0600 From: Paddock Wood <experts at paddockwood.com> Subject: correction to pitching rates It dawned on me this afternoon that once again there was a good reason I studied Ancient Greek and not science. I should avoid math problems all together. DCL suggests what would be 15 gm in 20 L, which of course is 0.75 gm per L not 1.5 gm per L. But 3gm per L at 9C still holds. I guess the importance of higher pitching rates in cold wort is increased thereby as well. Steve Cavan -- in vino veritas, at in cerevisiae voluptas Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 15:17:22 -0800 From: "John C. Tull" <jctull at unr.edu> Subject: WZZ Homebrew Comp 2003 Results The results for the 2003 Washoe Zephyr Zymurgists competition are online now. The 101 entries, all the wonderful judges, the stewards, and the volunteers made this an excellent event. Prizes, awards, judge forms and all that good stuff will be snail-mailed by next week (or an explanation thereof for some prizes). See the results here: Cheers, John C. Tull Organizer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 00:18:08 +0000 From: rscotty at attbi.com Subject: TMS And Naked Greed Bad news for those of us who procrastinated on constructing a conical fermentor. Toledo Metal Spinning has doubled all their prices on the conical hopper family. The 12.5 gallon model TMS16914 was about $74 as memory serves. It is now $152 - a little over 100% jump overnight! Does anyone know of another source for these vessels? TMS got greedy... Rich Scotty Chief Fabricator The Crapshoot Brewery Return to table of contents
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