HOMEBREW Digest #4217 Thu 10 April 2003

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  Rescue Shelter Available... (Teresa Knezek)
  RE: chloramines/chlorine/Campden Tabs (Peter Wadey)
  Stoney Creek Vanilla Porter ("Fred Scheer")
  re:  Indoor Boiling (Ed Jones)
  Where do I brew (Jim Bermingham)
  Re: aquarium heater fermentation safety (rhostler)
  Re: indoor boiling (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com>
  Re: Indoor Boiling (Jeff Renner)
  inside or outside? (Marc Sedam)
  Brewing outside (Calvin Perilloux)
  Re: Sankey Anti-Tamper Work Around (Jeff Renner)
  experiments with corn II (Inland-Gaylord)" <BSmith51 at ICCNET.COM>
  from dark to light? (darrell.leavitt)
  Re: aquarium heater fermentation safety (Denny Conn)
  Re: Stoney Creek Vanilla Porter (Denny Conn)
  chilling the ferment ("Frank Tutzauer")
  iron water, late winter hops ("Dave Burley")
  RE: Sankey Valve spear puller ("Mike Sharp")
  Re: Sankey Anti-Tamper Work Around (Ryan Neily)
  Re: Indoor Boiling (Teresa Knezek)
  RE: Sankey Anti-Tamper Work Around ("Leonard, Phil")
  Re: Water treatment ("Ed Dorn")
  FW: Water treatment ("Ed Dorn")
  What's a lager? ("Ed Dorn")
  secondary/priming combined in cornies??? ("Steve Dale-Johnson")
  sour mash oddity? (Steven S)
  2003 AHA Board of Advisors Election...FINAL RESULTS ("Rob Moline")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 22:35:00 -0900 From: Teresa Knezek <teresa at mivox.com> Subject: Rescue Shelter Available... On or thereabout 4/9/03, Pat Babcock spoke thusly: >(Now, [my garage brewing rack] is a conversation piece for those who >stop by, since it ain't "back in the day" no more...) That is a terribly, terribly sad thing. I feel for you, but more importantly, I feel for your poor, neglected equipment. I am therefore generously offering to give your brewing equipment a loving "rescue" home, where it can live out its days cared for and brewed in regularly. Same for all of you who refer to your wives as SWMBO, and suffer the wrath of your loved ones on brew day... Preserve your domestic peace! Rediscover marital bliss! For your SWMBO's next birthday, send your persecuted brewing gadgets to me, where they will enjoy a kind and caring home, lovingly brewed in by me, and deeply appreciated by HWLBBF (He Who Likes Being Brewed For) 3-4 weeks later. If you like, I can even send periodic photos of your darlings, and quarterly samples of their latest accomplishments... kinda like those "Sponsor-a-Child" programs that send you photos and cute handwritten letters from your "sponsoree" every so often. I'm just that kind of giving, caring, altruistic person. - -- ::Teresa : Two Rivers, Alaska:: [2849, 325] Apparent Rennerian "It has been my experience that folks who have no vices have very few virtues." -- Abraham Lincoln Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 17:32:22 +1000 From: Peter Wadey <pwadey at mimixbroadband.com.au> Subject: RE: chloramines/chlorine/Campden Tabs Dear A.J. and Dave, Thanks for responding to my Qn about Sodium Met. in Campdens Tablets, and reassuring me of their suitability for use in removing Chloramine. Doug had me a little worried for a while. (BTW Doug, my tap pH is 7.5-7.8) But A.J., I am unsure how much Campdens to use because: On Wed, 12th Jun 2002, you wrote: '....One Campden tablet per 20 gallons of treated water is sufficient to take care of 3 mg/L chlorine as chloramine and, with respect to another post, this is a typical amount found in municipal supplies. Campden tablets will also help scavenge any residual dissolved oxygen.' Then on Tue, 08 Apr 2003, you wrote: 'one tablet should treat 40 gallons of water containing 3 mg/L chloramine.' Which do you recommend? 1 tablet per 20 gallons or 1 per 40 gallons for 3ppm chloramine? Regards, Peter Wadey Mashing away in Eastwood, NSW, Australia (Where I might get a light frost in the dead of winter) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 07:44:12 -0500 From: "Fred Scheer" <FHopheads at msn.com> Subject: Stoney Creek Vanilla Porter HI Stu: I have ones in a while a Coffee Porter or a Vanilla Skye (Scottish Ale) that I offer our customers in casks. I found that our customers here in the South like the Vanilla Skye more than a Vanilla Porter. After I ad the corn sugar and whole hops in the cask (5 gallons), I ad 2 Vanilla beans, this where opened in the middle for extraction. Than I fill the cask (50*F), leave it in the Brewhouse (~ 65-68*F)for 2 weeks, than one week at 40*F before having our "cellarman of the day" drawing. It became so popular, that I now bottle them too. Fred Scheer www.brewsbrothers.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 05:48:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Ed Jones <cuisinartoh at yahoo.com> Subject: re: Indoor Boiling Teresa stated: "If I had to set up in a basement, I'd install an industrial-strength oven hood vent right above where I was setting up the boiler, and make sure I had a window to crack open to replace the air the vent sucked out." Check out my webpage at http://ironacres.com for one simple vent idea. But rather than a window to crack open, I open ALL the windows in the basement to provide make-up air. That's a furnace blower on the vent hood and it works well once a draft gets going. I usually start the blower about 10 minutes before I brew to get a draft flowing and I keep the basement door shut. That is an 8" pipe from the blower to a window. I have another pipe sticking out of the window to make sure the fumes dont just blow right back in (they did until I extended the pipe out the window during the brew. ===== Ed Jones - Columbus, Ohio U.S.A - [163.8, 159.4] [B, D] Rennerian "When I was sufficiently recovered to be permitted to take nourishment, I felt the most extraordinary desire for a glass of Guinness...I am confident that it contributed more than anything else to my recovery." - written by a wounded officer after Battle of Waterloo, 1815 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 07:57:08 -0700 From: Jim Bermingham <jbham6843 at netscape.net> Subject: Where do I brew The winters are brutal in this part of the world. Sometimes you even have to wear a coat early of a morning (25 to 30 deg) but by afternoon most of the time it reaches 40 to 50 degrees. But being a Woosie I still brew in my garage. Even in the summer when the thermometer reaches 105. Jim Bermingham Millsap, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 09:33:11 -0400 From: rhostler at pcconnection.com Subject: Re: aquarium heater fermentation safety <Can anyone else assure me that this is a fairly safe practice? I realize no one can say 100% "it won't cause any problems" but you can say "I've been doing this for years and I have been fine". Is a 100 watt heater overdoing it? Guidelines suggest 5 watts per gallon and the tub is maybe 10 gallons, I think, but is it ok to go bigger?> I have used aquarium heaters 15W - 300W in aquariums for years. I have used them in plastic 5gal buckets several times without any problems. I also tend to run worst-case scenarios through my head before attempting any new setup. There is a product that can alleviate your bucket-melting fears. Pet stores sell plastic shrouds that fit around standard aquarium heaters. These shrouds are designed to keep larger fish or other animals from banging the glass heater against the tank (I use one in my turtle tank). The shroud also creates a cushion of water around the heater. So, if you use a heater and shroud, the assembly could rest against the side of the bucket without the hot glass of the heater coming in contact with the side of your bucket. Voila, no chance of melting. Another way to assure heat doesn't build up too much and create a more even temperature is to run a cheap submersible aquarium power head (underwater pump) with the outlet pointing toward the heater. This will circulate the water and promote more efficient heating of your fermenter. As far as wattage, you need to take the temperature delta you wish to create and then figure that into your volume calculation. I'm pretty sure I've seen online calculators for aquarium heaters on the Web. I run a 250W in my basement 55gal aquarium and keep the tank temp at 72-74F in a 60-65F degree air temp. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 10:01:51 -0400 From: "Barrett, Bob (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com> Subject: Re: indoor boiling Here are the returns so far on indoor/outdoor brewing: Teresa Knezak, Two Rivers, Alaska. Teresa says she brews inside, but then she does it in her attached garage. Unless it's heated by something other than her propane burner, I would call that brewing outside. Teresa also thinks by living in Alaska you automatically qualify as brewing in the coldest place on earth. Although she likes to exaggerate a little, it is cold there. The average highs and lows for the same days I brewed are 12.65F/-5.8F. Dan Gross, Olney, Maryland. Dan brews outside, but needs a cover over his set up. The garage works for me. Not that cold in Maryland. 38.68F/16.88F Randy Ricchi, Hancock, Michigan We don't know where Randy brews. He never said. It's a little colder in Hancock than Ann Arbor. Randy thinks Ann Arbor *IS* the tropical paradise of Michigan and complains about having snow. Ann Arbor has snow too! 17.98F/6.26F Matt Schultz, Madison Wisconsin Matt brews inside. Really cushy. 24.9F/6.42F Mark Kempisty Mark is another tough guy. He brews outside, but we don't' know where. But it must be cold there!!! Jason Poll, Keweenaw Peninsula (Hancock), Michigan Jason brews outside. He fixed up a nice wind shield to help with keeping his burner fired up. He has a much better sense of the weather than Teresa does. 17.98F/6.26F Pat Babcock, Westland, Michigan The janitor brews outside when he brews. I'm glad he still remembers that he did brew at one time. I wonder if he remembers he use to come to some of the AABG meetings!! 26.88F/14.36F Brian Lundeen, Winnepeg, Manitoba Brian is an insider. He admits that his marriage is failing because of it ;) And needs to do some venting. He lives in the coldest place of anyone that posted about brewing inside or outside. 11.95F/-5.08F Jerry Pelt, Illinois?????? Jerry brews inside on his big honkin' stove from NASA. Not sure where Jerry lives. He bought the stove in Galena, Illinois so I'm saying somewhere near there. He're the temps for Galena, Illinois. 26.38F/6.02F Matt Arnold, Oconto Falls, Wisconsin Matt brews outside. He gets excited seeing the column of steam freezing above the boil kettle and then billowing out of the garage when the temp is below zero. You have to make things fun like Matt does!!!! 24.17F/5.67F I love brewing outside as much as those that brew inside love brewing inside. I think the thing that makes it the most fun is that Kim and I brew together. By brewing outside we get to get out of the house on days that we would most likely stay inside. Brewing is our winter sport. Sometimes it is a challenge. What is really great about all of this is that there are people everywhere brewing beer. For me it makes the world a better place!!!! We make the beer we drink!! Bob Barrett (2.8, 103.6) Rennerian Judging mead at his house on Saturday. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 10:00:56 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Indoor Boiling Teresa Knezek <teresa at mivox.com> writes from Two Rivers, Alaska: >Got an attached garage, and I set up my propane burner and crack the >overhead garage door about 6 inches. Works well. Propane sinks, heat >rises, so most of the heat stays in, and presumably, the propane can >get out. Haven't passed out during a boil yet. It isn't propane that is the danger, it's carbon monoxide. Do yourself a favor, Teresa, and spend the money for a good digital-readout carbon monoxide detector. You're too good an addition to HBD to gas yourself! You might be surprised how high the CO level rises. You might not feel ill, but it still isn't good for you. CO can have effects that last for days. In my garage with the overhead doors open as you describe, the levels rise to three figures in just a very few minutes. The rough cast iron ring burners I have are not very efficient, and I suspect most of our burners are similar. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 10:09:18 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: inside or outside? Here we have the opposite problem. Although I have brewed many times when the temps were in the 10-20F range, it's harder for me to brew in the common 90-100F range seen in these here parts starting in June. In fact, my spring brewing session is nearly over. Just a mild, an IPA, and 15 gallons of Berliner weiss away from being finished until October. This brings me to my favorite (semi-)annual question...what homebrews are in your beer cellar? After the mild and IPA (both brewed by 1 May), mine will consist of: IPA mild (10 gallons) CAP (7.5 gal) dunkles Belgian "light" dubbel (OG 'only' 1.064) ESB California common wit cherry wit cran-blackberry mead orange blossom mead - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 07:15:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com> Subject: Brewing outside Put my name on the list of those who brew outside. Mostly. Once I started using a free-standing propane cooker, I just can't bring myself back to that horrid little electric stove, the scorching, the noise of the pots creaking on the burners, the hollering from SWMBO about that malty perfume spreading through the house because the vent fan just can't move out all the vapour from a full, rolling boil... Here in Maryland, where we get relatively balmy winters compared some of you, I thought on one particularly snowy and windy day that I'd go back to electric. (I do some of my mashing that way, anyway, since the heating requirements are not as high.) 20 minutes later, as I cursed that electric stove, I was lugging the propane equipment through the snow, shovelling a spot for it outside the laundry door, and firing up for a real brew session! What with the wind, snow, and +10 F, I needed to fashion a heat shield, too. SWMBO said it was like I was trying to boil water in a walk-in freezer, with a fan blowing on the pot, while throwing ice cubes in it. Not far from the truth. Still, it was better than brewing inside! I'm still an inside brewer when it comes to the sparging, though, which I do in the laundry. The heat loss from my inefficiently insulated lauter tun would be impossible to deal with in sub-freezing ambient temps. Calvin Perilloux Middletown, Maryland, USA (where we actually had a real winter this year) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 10:18:06 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Sankey Anti-Tamper Work Around Ryan Neily <ryan at neily.net> writes: >I have a couple of Sankey kegs that I would like to use for kegging >however, I have found that the anti-tamper thing that keeps the valve and >rod in place is a bugger to get out and put back in. ><snip> >I am sure this has been asked here many times before, but I couldn't find >any mention of it in the Archives... I post this on a regular basis. The last time is at: http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/4027.html#4027-14 Sankeys have advantages and disadvantages compared to Corneys. I typically brew 7.75 gallons and fill a 1/4 bbl. Sankey. Often I will transfer five gallons to a Corney when I've drunk 2.75 gallons. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 09:37:47 -0500 From: "Smith, Brian (Inland-Gaylord)" <BSmith51 at ICCNET.COM> Subject: experiments with corn II Dear listers... Some of you may recall my last failed attempts at a CAP. Old yeast and improper mashing lead me to have to do something I had never done before...dump a whole batch of beer. So I'm going to give it another whirl. I plan on using corn flakes cereal for my corn addition. I'm using a partial mash technique so, how many boxes of generic corn flakes will I need to buy for a 7 gallon batch. If this works I am also considering making a Belgian wheat using some form of wheat cereal....so what do you think, Wheaties, shredded wheat, or bran flakes? Brian Smith Inland Paperboard and Packaging Bogalusa Mill Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 10:51:58 -0400 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: from dark to light? Any of you guys (and gals) ever try to go from darker to lighter in re- using yeast? I am in my 3rd use of a WLP510 Bastogne Belgian Yeast. The first batch was a pretty low gravity Wit (1.050), the second batch was a "Bastogne Red Ale (1.061), but I am now trying to make a Strong Golden Ale..and just wonder if the color will work as I wish, while re-using yeast from a darker batch. Anyone had success with this before? I guess that the worst that can happen is that I'll get a Strong Brown/ Amber Belgian? Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 08:37:54 -0800 From: Denny Conn <denny at projectoneaudio.com> Subject: Re: aquarium heater fermentation safety Tom, maybe I can ease your mind a bit. I've been running 2 setups like that for several years, and have never even come close to a temperature that would melt the plastic tubs. I keep 1 in a closet in the house for ales, and 1 in the garage for lagers (at least in the winter). I don't remember exactly the size of my tubs, but 10 gal. would be a good guess. I use a 50W heaters in both and seem to be able to get the temps. I need with it. -------------->Denny Conn Eugene OR At 12:45 AM 4/9/03 -0400, Tom wrote: >------------------------------ > >Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 05:09:39 -0400 >From: "Tom & Dana Karnowski" <karnowsk at esper.com> >Subject: aquarium heater fermentation safety > >I am dealing with too cool fermentation temperatures in my basement. The >coming of spring & summer will solve much of this in the next few months, >but in the mean time I need a solution sooner so I can ferment a wheat beer >and get some good banana notes from it. > >I have seen that some folks place their fermenters in a tub of some sort, >fill it with water, and use an aquarium heater. I would like to try this >but I am a little nervous about safety. I don't want to endanger my family >simply to get a better beer. > >I have a 100 watt aquarium heater that I will set in a Rubbermaid type >storage bin. Those bins are pretty tough but they ARE plastic, and were not >really designed for this application. In my mind, I worry that worst case >the heater, which is stuck to the side of the bin, will melt the plastic, >drain out all the water, then burn up and cause a horrible conflagration. > >So... > >Can anyone else assure me that this is a fairly safe practice? I realize no >one can say 100% "it won't cause any problems" but you can say "I've been >doing this for years and I have been fine". > >Is a 100 watt heater overdoing it? Guidelines suggest 5 watts per gallon and >the tub is maybe 10 gallons, I think, but is it ok to go bigger? > >Finally, where do you put the tub? I will put mine in a bathtub, initially, >but I may need to move it to another location at some point. > >Thanks >Tom Karnowski >Knoxville TN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 08:43:37 -0800 From: Denny Conn <denny at projectoneaudio.com> Subject: Re: Stoney Creek Vanilla Porter Stu, For my Christmas beer this year, I made a Bourbon Vanilla Imperial Porter. I used 2 vanilla beans, split open lengthwise. I scraped the seeds from the inside, and tossed it all into the secondary for about 11 days. Turned out to have just the right vanilla character, not too overpowering. I brewed a nice chocolatey porter for the base, using a few pounds of brown malt. I've found that it gives the beer a bit of licorice character that goes nicely with the vanilla. ---------------->Denny Conn Eugene OR At 12:45 AM 4/9/03 -0400, Stu wrote: >Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 08:02:06 -0400 >From: stewart.pounds at gm.com >Subject: Stoney Creek Vanilla Porter > >Has anyone tried to clone Stoney Creeks Vanilla Porter? My wife and I was >there a couple of weeks ago and it, it was great and I'd like to make >something close to it. I thought I could just add Vanilla flavor to a >porter recipe something like I do with my Hazelnut Porter, but from what >I've found on the web it looks like everyone is using Vanilla beans to >flavor there beers. Any help would be greatly appreciated i.e. grain bills >, or processes. As usual private E-mail is fine. >Thanks, >Stu >stewart.pounds at gm.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 12:25:43 -0400 From: "Frank Tutzauer" <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu> Subject: chilling the ferment I just want to second Jonathan's suggestion of Ken Schwartz's Son-of-Fermentation Chiller. I use one, and it works great. I can easily ferment lagers or keep ales at a nice steady 65 if I want. For a while, Ken was selling kits, but unfortunately he's not doing that anymore. I was lucky enough to get one of these before he quit. (As an aside, he had absolutely the best assembly instructions I've ever seen.) But they're easy enough to build following the website directions. --frank in Buffalo Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 13:31:28 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: iron water, late winter hops Brewsters: Jeff asks for more data on rusting equipment causing iron containing water. In my case, it was the in-well jet pump ( so said the plumber) which caused a problem. Highly acid (Carbonated(?) water dissolved iron, was in the ferric state and dissolved the copper pipe leading from the pump inflow to the house. Where all the brass screws in my faucets and such dissolved or pitted. Bath water was a beautiful copper ++ blue. A little ammonia confirmed it was copper. The incoming copper pipe became paper thin and eventually developed a pinhole. After removal, the pipe could be crushed easier than an eggshell. Luckily, I found this by going to do a bottling of some homebrew in the furnace room and felt this fine spray in my face. Brewing does have its positive side in home maintenance, despite what SWMBO says! Anyway, I first replaced the inlet pipe with a pressure rated plastic hose ( despite what the plumber said about it not being to code) and then put in a water treatment facility to rival a small city. It worked. - ------------------------- Michael Hartsock worries that his early sprouts from his hop rhizomes gettng frosted will ruin his chance for growth. Dinna worry. People often pick these hop sprouts for an early salad and to prevent excess growth of the bines. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 10:38:35 -0700 From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Sankey Valve spear puller Ryan Neily asks about a Sankey Anti-Tamper Work Around "I have a couple of Sankey kegs that I would like to use for kegging however, I have found that the anti-tamper thing that keeps the valve and rod in place is a bugger to get out and put back in. "I did see the Kegman conversion kit for the sankey kegs, but it looks a little expensive at $8.95 for a snap-ring and OEM o-ring. Do this kit work well? "Does anyone have an easier way to hold the valve/rod in while still keeping a fair amount of pressure on the gasket to make the keg air tight? (Places to order or specs on the hardware would be great as well)" I think the snap ring is way easier. It looks like a special snap ring, because the sankey tap has to clear it. The o-ring seems like an unusual size, too. I think they're worth the money. I'll tell you what I use to remove the spear. You can buy, for several hundred dollars, a clamp tool for compressing the valve, which makes getting the snap ring/anti tamper ring in and out a lot easier. But it's easy to make. Go to the auto supply store and get a combo harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller. Then get two flat pieces of aluminum, about 6 inches square. With your handy dandy Bosch jig saw, cut a U-shaped section out of one side of each plate. Then drill and tap two holes in one plate as shown in my crude ASCII drawing below. The other plate needs two holes as well, but they don't have to be tapped (clearance holes). The size of the hole depends on the size of the bolt in your harmonic balancer puller. The gap in the plates is just wide enough to go around the sankey cylindrical collar part, but not big enough to go around the flange. With the gaps facing each other, slide the plates around the sankey collar, below the flange, with the threaded hole on the bottom, until the holes line up. _______________ | | | X | | __________| | / | \__________ | | | X | |_______________| Assemble your puller, threading the puller bolts through the holes. Get or make a "Soft Center" which is a piece of something that goes between the puller center threaded rod and the device that it pushes against (the sankey valve's "ball", gas valve and it's metal collar in this case). I used a piece of thick polyethylene sized so that the pressure is distributed to the metal of the valve spear. I backed this with a stainless washer. If you drill holes in this part, you'll be able to ensure that the pressure is totally relieved when you clamp on (you can hear the gas/beer escaping). Anyway, run down the puller rod, until the tension is removed from snap ring, and away you go. The valve rotates counter clockwise slightly before it comes out. I imagine this is a safety feature in case the ring fails, or the valve is removed under pressure. MAKE SURE THE PRESSURE IS TOTALLY RELIEVED!!!! It's not enough to bleed the pressure, then set up the puller. If there's residual beer, pressure might go up again in the time it takes to set up the clamp and remove the ring. Your clamp should be rigged to relieve pressure automatically. It can be messy, though! Regards, Mike Sharp Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 13:48:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Ryan Neily <ryan at neily.net> Subject: Re: Sankey Anti-Tamper Work Around It's a wonder I didn't find this in my searches. I have heard of people using snap rings to seal the containers, however, I am not sure that this gives a good of a seal as the tamper ring. I am just getting started into brewing, so I think that me sticking with my curent collection of sanky kegs will be more economical in the long run that converting back and fourth to Cornies. Plus, I allready have direct draft system that is setup for sanky. On Wed, 9 Apr 2003, Jeff Renner wrote: > Ryan Neily <ryan at neily.net> writes: > > >I have a couple of Sankey kegs that I would like to use for kegging > >however, I have found that the anti-tamper thing that keeps the valve and > >rod in place is a bugger to get out and put back in. > ><snip> > >I am sure this has been asked here many times before, but I couldn't find > >any mention of it in the Archives... > > I post this on a regular basis. The last time is at: > > http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/4027.html#4027-14 > > Sankeys have advantages and disadvantages compared to Corneys. I > typically brew 7.75 gallons and fill a 1/4 bbl. Sankey. Often I will > transfer five gallons to a Corney when I've drunk 2.75 gallons. > > Jeff > - -- Ryan Neily ryan at neily.net Random Quote: "Aerodynamics are for people that cant build good engines... - Enzo Ferrari" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 10:20:55 -0800 From: Teresa Knezek <teresa at mivox.com> Subject: Re: Indoor Boiling On or thereabout 4/9/03, Jeff Renner spoke thusly: >It isn't propane that is the danger, it's carbon monoxide. Do >yourself a favor, Teresa, and spend the money for a good >digital-readout carbon monoxide detector. You're too good an >addition to HBD to gas yourself! Hehehe. Thanks. :-) Always nice to know people don't want to see me dead. Seriously though, I only pop in an out of the garage to check boil volume, add hops, give a quick stir, etc. I doubt I'm ever in the garage during a boil for more than 3-4 minutes at a time. Then there's my boyfriend walking through and opening the side garage door to go out and smoke all the time, which helps the air flow. In a car with an exhaust leak, I find I start getting a headache very quickly... which, if I am not mistaken, is a CO problem also. I've never gotten a headache while brewing in the garage. Interestingly, a study up here found that indoor air quality in Alaskan homes is actually *higher* during the winter, when you'd think everything is shut tight, then it is during the summer when doors and windows are flung open. The temperature difference between indoor and out is so great (-20/30 to +65/70) that just cracking open the door for a moment sends a huge gust of cold air through the house... or the garage. Not to say that a CO detector is a bad idea... just wanted to reassure everyone I wasn't going to pass out into a vat of boiling wort any time soon. - -- Teresa - Two Rivers, Alaska [2849, 325] Appt. Rennerian "It has been my experience that folks who have no vices have very few virtues." -- Abraham Lincoln Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 13:22:05 -0500 From: "Leonard, Phil" <Phil.Leonard at dsionline.com> Subject: RE: Sankey Anti-Tamper Work Around Ryan asks about the Kegman conversion kit for Sanke kegs.... I have 8 Sanke kegs that I use. I quit using soda kegs about several months ago and I will never go back. I ordered one of the Kegman kits so see what it was like and then realized I only needed the big snap ring. You can order just the snap ring for 3 or 4 bucks from the same company. If you need to replace an o-ring then just order it separately. As for compressing the o-ring so the snap ring will go back in I place a 1/2" PVC pipe cap in the center of the valve and use a 2 foot piece of 3/8" box steel rod that I hook under the keg handle and press down on the other end to compress the o-ring. Anything stout enough to use as a fulcrum should work. Get yourself a good pair of snap ring pliers to compress the snap ring with (and to get it back out). Philip Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 14:55:38 -0400 From: "Ed Dorn" <edorn at dukes-stein.com> Subject: Re: Water treatment Thanks to all who responded to my request for user-friendly ideas (what, how much, and when?)for water treatment. I particularly appreciate John Palmer's comments, and I'm glad he intends to alter his online manual to make it even better than it already is. I'm still a bit confused, but it's gratifying to know that I'm not alone. I was remiss early on in that Lou Heavner asked me to pass along a private email he sent me and I failed to do so. What he advised me was to try Ken Schwartz's Brewater software. I found it using Google and it does appear useful. But I still needed to learn some chemistry symbols that I'd forgotten. I'll try to send Lou's post along after I send this one. Again, thanks to all who responded. Ed Dorn, Va Beach, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 14:58:32 -0400 From: "Ed Dorn" <edorn at dukes-stein.com> Subject: FW: Water treatment Here are Lou's original comments (he is unable to post). - -----Original Message----- From: Heavner, Lou [FRS/AUS] [mailto:Lou.Heavner at EmersonProcess.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 3:06 PM To: Ed Dorn Subject: re: Water treatment Ken Schwartz has a homebrewing website with a free piece of software called Brewater and a document on treating brew water. They are the best thing I have ever found for an amateur. Get them and you may have all your answers. Some points to conider: 1)Remember that you don't need to be accurate to the 7th decimal place. Water chemistry is a minor contributing factor and close is good enough. Use teaspoons and round to the closest 1/4 tsp. Theoretically, you should use enough minerals to treat the full volume of mash and sparge water plus any topping in the boil. I just use the quantity based on how much beer I intend to end up with. It is probably better to "under salt" than "over salt" the mash. BTW, salts don't evaporate, but undissolved salts may stay with the solids and dissolved salts will be "lost" in the unrecovered liquid in the lauter tun and kettle. 2)Calcium carbonate (chalk) doesn't dissolve readily in drinking water and calcium sulfate (gypsum) isn't much better. I just measure the mineral additions I wish to add and mix them into the crushed grist. I don't treat my mash water directly at all. Sometimes I will neutralize my sparge water with phosphoric acid (it is a main ingredient of coca cola), but usually not. Lactic acid is just as good. Some folks have argued that if the sparge water pH is to alkaline, then you will get excessive and undesirable leaching of tannins. I believe that pH is probably more likely a culprit than high mashout temperatures, but I have never really detected a problem in the resulting beer when I didn't lower the sparge pH to around or below 7. My water isn't as soft as yours, but not too hard either. 3)If you use the Brewater program, you will probably not be able to reproduce an exact replica for every type of brewing water. The first thing I would give up on is calcium carbonate (chalk) and the most important thing to shoot for is alkalinity. In fact, I would never add chalk unless it was a dark beer or I was trying to reproduce Burton water. You shouldn't really have to worry about pH of the water unless you really add a lot of acid to it. The salts won't affect pH directly. They will react with the mash to reduce pH, but this is what is supposed to happen. If you have the interest, or if you run into a problem, you could test the pH of the mash, the wort (pre and post boil) and the fermented beer. There are ideal ranges, but again, if you are using good ingredients and typical processes, it should all happen naturally. I wish I could post to HBD, but it has rejected my posts as multi-mime for several years. Pat and I have never been able to figure out why. So feel free to repost this if you think it would be beneficial. Regards, Lou Heavner Advanced Applied Technologies Team Emerson Process Management Phone: (512) 834-7262 Fax: (512) 832-3199 e-Mail: lou.heavner at emersonprocess.com <mailto:lou.heavner at emersonprocess.com> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 13:37:15 -0500 From: "Ed Dorn" <edorn at dukes-stein.com> Subject: Water treatment I've noted with interest a number of posts regarding water treatment recently, and I'm getting more and more confused. Before I get into my questions, let me set the context. I've been brewing for almost six years, all grain for about five years. When I first attended the all-grain class at the local hb shop, the owner talked briefly about our local water, and recommended that, for 5 gallons, I add two tsp gypsum to the mash, and two "capfuls" of lactic acid (based on the container size he sold) to the sparge water. I dutifully followed his instructions and for several years brewed terrific beer, mostly American pale ale, American wheat, and German hefeweizen. I should add that I also use a water filter, a Pur model attached to the faucet. As an aside, the hb shop is no longer in business, so I can't address my questions to the owner. I guess I've gotten a little bored and want to move into more challenging areas, so I've gotten interested in the idea of matching water to various beers. In the literature that is readily available, I find very little information about how to add treatments, specifically at what point in the brewing process. The authors do mention certain types of water adjustments, frequently in parts per million, but little attention seems to be paid to when or how the adjustment should be made. Noonan does refer to treating "brewing water" which implies to me that all water should be treated. I think that most treatment is done to make the mash more efficient, but I'm not sure if that's the only thing. I'm also not sure if pH is important beyond facilitating enzyme activity and preventing leaching of tannins. You can probably tell that I'm not a chemist, so long texts with formulae, symbols, and equations cause my eyes to glaze over. So here are the questions. The most commonly used (in my limited experience) water treatments seem to be gypsum, lactic acid, salt, Epsom salt, and calcium chloride. At what point in the brewing process should these be added? When an amount is given for 5 gallons, should it be adjusted upward if added early in the process when the total brewing water used will be much higher (i.e., does the stuff evaporate)? What do I really need to know about pH? I know that detailed knowledge is not crucial, because I've made fine beer without ever testing pH. But ignorance is no longer bliss. I know that books are written on this subject, and I'd love to find one that addresses these questions in simple how-to form for the home brewer. I've read Palmer, Papazian, Daniels, Noonan, Miller, Mosher, and perhaps the answers are there and I missed them. If anyone has another good reference, please let me know. I have ProMash, and I can't find answers there either. BTW, I'm in Virginia Beach, VA and blessed with soft water. The profile is as follows: Calcium - 7 ppm, Magnesium - 4 ppm, Sodium - 18 ppm, Sulfate - 28 ppm, Bicarbonate alkalinity - 20 ppm, Chloride - 17 ppm and a pH of 7.0. Private replies are welcome, but I suspect that if I'm confused, others are also. Then again, maybe I'm just part of the proverbial 10% that didn't get the word. Thanks, Ed Dorn Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 15:14:13 -0400 From: "Ed Dorn" <edorn at dukes-stein.com> Subject: What's a lager? Frequently when I'm talking with non-brewing friends, and our hobby comes up, I'm asked to differentiate between lagers and ales. As a brewer, I immediately think things like top-fermenting vs. bottom fermenting, cold vs. room temperature fermentation, short vs. long fermentations - in other words, differentiating them in terms of the brewing process. What stumps me, though, is how they're different to the consumer. Most of my acquaintances seem to think that if a beer is light-colored it's a lager, and all darker beers are ales. Obviously not true. I have some ideas of my own which may or may not be true; something along the lines of ales being more full-bodied and aromatic, while lagers I perceive as crisper. But I'm really stumped to try to explain the difference as perceived by the drinker. Any ideas from the collective? As an example, how about this? Take Jeff Renner's CAP and compare it to the ale version, made with a clean neutral yeast. If each beer was served in its prime, and compared together, would there be characteristics that would readily distinguish one from the other? Thanks, Ed Dorn, Va Beach, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 14:26:34 -0700 From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com> Subject: secondary/priming combined in cornies??? I usually transfer to a glass secondary after the rapid fermentation has shortened the dip tubes on a few of my cornies to try priming for carbonation (after overcarbing a brown ale and getting a metallic taste) and I am flirting with the idea of combining the secondary and priming stages using a beer still at +\- 1.020 (an ale five days into primary) and about 1/2 the normal dextrose. Anyone doing this now?? Any concerns with overcarbonation or long-term autolysis from the slightly larger yeast residue??? Steve Dale-Johnson Brewing at (1918, 298) Miles Apparent Rennerian Vancouver, BC, Canada. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 19:53:12 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven S <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: sour mash oddity? So today I got around to doing something with my sourmash i've been letting fester for a few days. Actually 5 days. The Smell? horrible The Look? even worse The Problem? Sugars are gone! I took a gravity reading and got a paultry 1.012 Something ate my sweet sweet wort! The little beasties in the 2-row did the job too well? Steven St.Laurent 403forbidden.net [580.2,181.4] Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 23:02:54 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: 2003 AHA Board of Advisors Election...FINAL RESULTS 2003 AHA Board of Advisors Election...FINAL RESULTS On behalf of the AHA Board of Advisors, I am pleased to announce the results of the 2003 AHABOA Election. We have, especially now, a talented and dedicated array of brewers that have given so much to their passion that they have risen to consideration by the Membership and the Board, and while all are worthy of selection, the simple fact remains that they are chosen by you, the AHA Membership. 362 Ballots were cast via the BeerTown website....and 54 Votes were sent by snail mail, for a total of 416 Voters. While some voters cast only one vote, and one voter, apparently so excited about voting that while they filled in their name, membership number and signed the ballot....then failed to vote by checking any candidates! Then again, 317 Voters checked the Lallemand Scholarship box and gained an extra entry to "Beer Heaven!" The AHA Board of Advisors would like to welcome and congratulate Randy Mosher, Gordon Strong, and Dave Dixon to the Board of Advisors, and thank all of the Candidates who offered their expertise and continuing dedication to brewers...but most of all....those who voted! Cheers! Rob Moline Secretary AHA Board Of Advisors Association Of Brewers www.beertown.org "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.465 / Virus Database: 263 - Release Date: 3/25/2003 Return to table of contents
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