HOMEBREW Digest #4233 Wed 30 April 2003

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Re: Palm-Pen-Problem (Thomas Rohner)
  Re: busted wort chiller (Thomas Rohner)
  Re: busted wort chiller (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Palm Pilot Brewing Issues (joel trojnar)
  RE: First Wort Hopping ("Doug Hurst")
  RE busted wort chiller ("Mike")
  Starch haze? ("C Cameron")
  RE:  A Couple of Questions (Ronald La Borde)
  RE: busted wort chiller ("Everett Arndt")
  Extremely high ABV (G C)
  RE Kegging Eqiupment ("Leonard, Phil")
  Split wort chiller ("Andrew Moore")
  Starch haze microbiology and biochemistry (Robert Sandefer)
  Two or three things (Wil)
  Mash level controller (Bill Tobler)
  Protein haze, Starch Haze, ("Sven Pfitt")
  Brew Pubs in Yelm, WA (huck7248)

* * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * http://www.cafeshops.com/hbdstore * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 11:41:04 +0200 From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner at bluewin.ch> Subject: Re: Palm-Pen-Problem Hi Rick i see your problem.(I think so at least) You could take the Harddrive out of your PC (or Mac), and take out the very strong magnets inside.(if you need your PC for synchronizing your Palm, leave your PC as it is, and buy a strong magnet) The tips of the more expensive ball pens seem to be magnetic. So you could glue a small magnet into your palm wallet to hold the pen in place. But then you have to keep your creditcards and other magnetic media away from it. (i had my ATM card erased by a hotel- room key in Greece last year. The magnet on it was to switch on the lights while in the room) The other idea that comes to my mind, is a small tube with a o-ring inside.(i don't know if these rubber-gaskets are called o-rings in english) I hope it helps Thomas Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 14:00:32 +0200 From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner at bluewin.ch> Subject: Re: busted wort chiller Hi Drew you could take a short piece of copper tube that fits on your chiller tube like a sleve. The tighter the better. Clean the surfaces and solder or braze it. Be shure to take lead-free solder (tin-silver). Thomas Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 08:22:26 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: busted wort chiller Drew Buscareno, alias Emily E Neufeld wrote: >my 10 gallon copper wort chiller split (cracked open) after some water >froze inside. aside from scrapping it and buying a new one, is there any >sealant or solder that can be safely used without leaching into the beer >or dissolving at boiling temperatures? This happened to a friend's chiller in storage after he stopped brewing, and another friend bought the entire brewery, including the chiller. There were probably a dozen inch to inch-and-a-half long splits. She took it to our local fantastic hardware store, Stadium Hardware, to ask what could be done, and Mike, the owner, took pity on her (I guess) and hammered each split closed and sweated lead-free solder on each closed split to seal it. This is why I patronize Stadium Hardware and similar locally owned and operated businesses rather than the big-box stores. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 05:45:09 -0700 (PDT) From: joel trojnar <joeltrojnar at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Palm Pilot Brewing Issues Rick: You want to glue a metal pen cap to leather. Glueing to metal can be a challenge since there are no physical sites for adhesion due to it's smooth surface. You need something that is flexible that will bend and stretch with the leather, but not too soft so that the bond will creep away whenever you apply a force to the cap. Is the surface of the leather smooth or is it somewhat "furry". If its smooth, rough it up a bit with sandpaper or a needle. You want areas where the glue can dig in and get stuck. Here is my rec: There is also a urethane adhesive out there called Gorilla Glue. It's not as high tech as they make it seem. Simply MDI and polyol to form a prepolymer. It needs some moisture to finish off the reaction. Urethanes offer flexibility, strength, solvent resistance, and temperature resistance. The product will foam up a bit, which will make sure all the nooks and crannies are filled. Just follow the directions. -Joel Chemist / Brewer 'Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 05:15:08 -0400 (GMT) From: rickdude02 at earthlink.net Subject: Palm Pilot Brewing Issues I love my Palm, but I have a problem that I'm hoping that the vast experience here can help me with. My Palm is in a leather "wallet." It looks like a little leather notebook and on one side is the Palm, and on the other is a notepad (for quickly jotting brewing stats when I don't want to take the time to make manual entries-- ya'll see how this is brewing related, right?). There's a little sleeve in the center of the wallet that holds a small pen. I have filled the slot with a Fisher Space Pen (one of those pens that writes upside down and underwater) because it is short and fits perfectly. Here's the problem-- there's no elastic in the leather sleeve. It is becoming "broken in" and no longer holds the pen firmly. I can't quickly jot down my brewing notes when my pen keeps slipping out of the sleeve while I'm not looking (so far the pen has not time). I've been thinking about using some adhesive to hold the metal pen-top in the sleeve, but I don't know what will bond leather to metal. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, because I have having to search earnestly for this pen while I should be writing down vital stats while brewing. (Really-- this is a brewing question!) Rick Theiner LOGIC, Inc.' Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 08:35:25 -0500 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: RE: First Wort Hopping Joel asks about Mash hopping: "If the wort goes through the boil, wouldn't all the acids isomerize and the flavor oils boil off." Our own Marc Sedam has a good description of Mash Hopping on the Paddock Wood website: http://www.paddockwood.com/guide_mash_hopping_sedam.html Apparently the hop oils are not lost during the boil. The process is not well understood. There is reason to believe (from Jean De Clerck) that the oils form bonds during mash pH and temperature ranges which are consequently not broken during the boil. Clearly someone needs to do some additional research into the chemistry behind this phenomenon. Perhaps there is new information out there someone could post or maybe Marc could be persuaded to explain further. Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [215, 264.5] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 09:41:38 -0700 From: "Mike" <Mike at Bronosky.com> Subject: RE busted wort chiller I'll bit the wort chiller you are talking about repairing already has lead-free solder holding it together. Have you noticed any off taste? - --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus] Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 10:19:11 -0400 From: "C Cameron" <colinlovesbeer at hotmail.com> Subject: Starch haze? All this talk about starch haze got me wondering - is this the same as protein or chill haze? Or is it completely different? I have a pale ale that was bottled about 4 months ago and stored at room temp (16-20C) and it gets a real haze when chilled, but so far no problems or infections. Now that it's getting warmer should I be concerned? I better go drink it all, just in case! Colin Cameron Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 07:57:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Ronald La Borde <pivoron at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: A Couple of Questions From: mailto:wctobler at sbcglobal.net >- --Question 2-Can a HERMS be used,efficiently,for >multiple step mashes by >using the temp control on the heat ex-changer and >recirculating constantly? >This is a tougher question than the last. If you are >asking if you can >control the temperature of the mash by controlling >the temperature of the >HLT only, I don't think it would work very good, >though you could probably >do it Every system is different in some manner, and perhaps that explains why I have had good results with doing exactly that. On my system, I can set the HLT temperature 10-15 degrees higher to step up the mash, and as I get close to desired temp, I let the HLT temperature drop to about 5 degrees higher than desired mash temp. The most important thing to know, in my opinion is that the temperature in the mash will be highest at the top as the circulating liquor enters, and it will not be seen on the thermometer near the bottom of the mash tun for a while. Here is where you must trust the system. I know that if the HLT is 10-15 degrees above desired mash temp, that the mash is ramping up, and I just need to be calm and trusting until the bottom of the mash temp rises after a delay. If I do not trust this and continue to raise the HLT, then suddenly I can overshoot the mash temp. If I keep the HLT about 5 degrees F. above the desired mash temp., I can circulate continuously and the temperature stays on target in the mash. I use clear tubing, and it is nice to watch as the mash liquor turns from cloudy to nice bright and clear. This usually takes about 20 minutes to 30 minutes or so, depending on the brew. I do not bother with the iodine test anymore. Ron ===== Ron Ronald J. La Borde -- Metairie, LA New Orleans is the suburb of Metairie, LA www.hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 12:31:23 -0400 From: "Everett Arndt" <ecarndt at bellatlantic.net> Subject: RE: busted wort chiller The busted wort chiller can be silver brazed to fix the split. go to your local weldshop and inquire how much for the repair. This technique is not for people to perform for the first time. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 11:46:22 -0700 (PDT) From: G C <gsd4lyf at yahoo.com> Subject: Extremely high ABV I noticed Dogfish Head brewery produces a 23% ABV stout and a soon-to-be-released 21% ABV IPA. What type of yeast strains can survive such high alcohol levels, and is there some special technique they use to accomplish this? If anyone has tried the stout, what did it taste like? http://www.dogfish.com/beer/index.cfm Guy Los Gatos, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 13:48:46 -0500 From: "Leonard, Phil" <Phil.Leonard at dsionline.com> Subject: RE Kegging Eqiupment Nils wants to know about RCB Equipment company: I bought a half dozen used/tested ball lock kegs from RCB about two years ago. The kegs were in really nice shape and the price was very reasonable. Philip Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 15:09:56 -0400 From: "Andrew Moore" <abmjunk at hotmail.com> Subject: Split wort chiller A couple of thoughts: 1. If the crack is near one of the ends, I would cut the split section off and reposition the hose coupling. (I don't know if you have a solder-on fitting or hose with a clamp or some other type of attachment). 2. If cutting the split off would lose too much pipe, I would cut the split section out and replace with a repair coupling, which would require basic pipe soldering. If you've never tried it, copper pipe "sweating" is kind of fun, especially when it is not a house-critical application, i.e. your water supply piping. Since you are introducing a straight section to the curved pipe, you may have to bend the adjacent sections to regain the coil shape. Be careful; the pipe is soft and can crimp easily. There are temporary patches available for fixing leaks, but I'm not sure I would trust them in a boiling wort situation. Andrew Moore Richmond, Virginia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 15:50:34 -0400 From: Robert Sandefer <melamor at vzavenue.net> Subject: Starch haze microbiology and biochemistry I have had several replies, both private and on-Digest, to my question about starch haze, and I thank those who sent them. The consensus seems to be that infection is risked when starch is present. My question becomes: Infecion by what? Some reponses seem to implicate bacteria. Depending on your definition, "bacteria" refers to any member of two domains of life (there are only three domains total). What species/subspecies/strain can infect starch-ladden beer? What enzymes do they possess that allow them to do so? What is the ecology of these agents? Do they produce carbon dioxide and therefore cause gushers directly? Or do they produce byproducts that other organisms (perhaps even the yeast) then ferment and produce the carbon dioxide in gushers. Why would these agents degrade starch and not the dextrins in the beer? Sources welcome. "-S" implies Clostridia strains can be involved. I am unfamiliar with this taxa. The above questions apply here too. Well, that's the microbiology. Here comes the biochemistry. Since I am getting asking about minute details (pun intended), what compound or chemical family is involved in starch haze? Is the 'starch' referenced really polymers of glucose bonded by 1,4-alpha-glycoside bonds (the definition given for starch by McMurry in his book--Organic Chemistry) ? If so, does the haze-causing agent fall under amylose or amylopectin or both? If not, is the haze-causing agent some other (i.e., non-starch) carbohydrate? What? Thanks in advance. Robert Sandefer Arlington, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 22:31:17 GMT From: Wil at thebeermanstore.com Subject: Two or three things Picked up a nice 10 gallon ball lock keg from Duck Ditch brewing in Goose Creek S.C. last Sat. evening and am having one hell of a time cleaning it. Unfortunately someone put some kind of diffusing gizmo (not a stone) on the gas dip tube that had steel parts. It rusted and coated the inside with rust. I removed the gizmo and replace the gas dip tube and have had poor success with removing the rust from the bottom. It looks to me like the gizmo dripped to the bottom of the keg for some time staining it. I can't reach the bottom with my fat arms and my carboy brush just doesn't have the "umph" to scrub it off. Any Ideas. I have used B-Brire, C-brite (yea yea,SS and C-brite not a good idea) and "crud cutter"..The "crud cutter" has worked the best but the stain is still there. There is all so a fine powder of rust on the entire inside of the keg that only comes off with a cloth. Brushing will not remove it and when its wet it gets harder to remove. The keg is so nice on the out side I hate to not use it..and ideas? anyone used CLR on a SS keg? For GODS sake...let the sick taco thread die....Please. I'm trying to have a beer!!! Anyone have a good recipe for Rouges American Amber? Wil Kolb The Beer Man Plaza at East Cooper 607 B Johnnie Dodds Blvd Mt. Pleasant SC 29464 843-971-0805 Fax 843-971-3084 www.thebeermanstore.com Wil at thebeermanstore.com God bless America! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 17:49:44 -0500 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Mash level controller A friend of mine wants to control the level of his mash tun during sparging. He is looking for some kind of level controller to control the liquid above the grain bed during sparging. He wasn't happy when I told him to go buy a toilet boil water controller and use it. I was just wondering if anybody was doing this and if you are, I could use some details. My friends computer is off line for an unknown period of time, so he can't ask himself. Thanks in advance! Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 23:12:41 -0400 From: "Sven Pfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: Protein haze, Starch Haze, What is the difference in the appearance of Starch Haze and Protein haze? Starch haze exists at room temp and protein haze shows up as chill haze? Why would excess starch matter. We have TG in the range of 1.006 to 1.030 or better in some big beer. Why does starch haze matter when a beer without it finishes with a TG of 1.010? The 1.010 TG still has starch in it. Why would an infection care if it was residual gravity from a standard brew session or one with unmalted wheat? It looks to me like six of one and a half dozen of the other. Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN [422.7, 169.2] Rennerian "There is no such thing as gravity, the earth sucks." Wings Whiplash - 1968 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 23:33:01 -0400 From: huck7248 <huck7248 at optonline.net> Subject: Brew Pubs in Yelm, WA I'm traveling to Yelm, Wa on 5/1. I was wondering if anyone was willing to recommend any good Brew Pubs in the area. Thanks in advance for your help. George Finn Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 04/30/03, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96