HOMEBREW Digest #4258 Fri 30 May 2003

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  Igloo mash tun (John Lovett)
  English Dry Ale- yum... (darrell.leavitt)
  Re: Peach Puree (sbgns)
  RE: Quick Carbonation (Bill Tobler)
  Re: peach puree ("Rob Dewhirst")
  Fermentation, racking and lagering ("Steve Dale-Johnson")
  Hoover Universal Kegs ("Stephen Silverthorne")
  Big Strange NB Brew I (New Brunswick, Canada) (Daniel Chisholm)
  RE: Goin' to Boulder ("Leonard, Phil")
  re: Goin' to Boulder ("Mike Racette")
  Re: Water, hardness, and alkalinity ("Martin Brungard")
  Boiling (AJ)
  Label archives (Jim Wilson)
  Places ("Patrick Hughes")
  Robert considers all grain (J & B Gallihue)
  post, ("Howard")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 15:17:07 +1000 From: John Lovett <John.Lovett at amcor.com.au> Subject: Igloo mash tun I've been using a 10gal Igloo for a mash tun for some time - I love it. There are some pics of it and my false bottom, made from a plastic bucket lid on the Aussie Craftbrewing website: http://www.users.on.net/lamotte/gear/JLovett/index.html Cheers. John Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 07:15:57 -0400 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: English Dry Ale- yum... I just transferred and English Dry Ale from primary into secondary, and was so pleased with the behavior of this yeast that I thought I'd share: The recipe was: 1 lb CaraAmber 1 lb Wheat 1 lb Belgian Aromatic 10 lb Pale Malt (Golden Promise) 2 stage infusion (148, 158..) first runnings were 1.082 boil gravity was 1.055 Original Gravity was 1.064 gravity going into secondary was 1.018 (about 6% abv) hops were .5 oz Columbus at 60 same at 30 same at 15 Total IBU = 53.3 (using Promash) Yeast was wlp007 English Dry Ale This is the description from the Whitelabs site: ===start quote=== Clean, highly flocculant, and highly attenuative yeast. This yeast is similar to WLP002 in flavor profile, but is 10% more attenuative. This eliminates the residual sweetness, and makes the yeast well suited for high gravity ales. It is also reaches terminal gravity quickly. 80% attenuation will be reached even with 10% ABV beers. Attenuation: 70-80; Flocculation: High; Optimum Ferm. Temp: 65-70 ====end quote==== I have been experimenting with maize and various other ways of making cleaner/crisper ales and lagers, and to my pleasure this yeast has created a very crisp / dry taste to the ale. This was my second use of this particular yeast, and I think that I will use it one more time....and I will certainly purchase more....a good yeast for dry ales... Happy Brewing! ..Darrell Plattsburgh,NY 44 41 58 N Latitude 73 27 12 W Longitude [544.9 miles, 68.9]Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 08:14:41 -0500 From: sbgns at wideopenwest.com Subject: Re: Peach Puree on Wed May 28, darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu says: "I made a Peach Ale, using the Oregon Peach Puree" Darrel, My wife has requested a Cherry Raspberry Wheat, so I brewed a 15 gallon batch of American Wheat and will be drawing 5 gallons out of the fermenter to "enhance" or "corrupt" (depending on your point of view) the beer with 2 can's of the Oregon Fruit Puree (Cherry), and some whole raspberries. I have previously used Vintner's reserve Cherry wine base for the cherry addition. The VR product is basically whole cherries in juice, so this is my first attempt with fruit puree. I did some HBD searching just yesterday, and found some results very similar to yours. You say: "It was in primary for about 7 days, then when I transferred into secondary I added the tin can of Oregon Peach Puree...." You are correct...the secondary would be the preferred time to add the puree. "And, by the way, the peach flavor was not real strong..." Most of the info I found indicates that a mild fruit flavor is what you would expect with 1 can in 5gal, and I would think peach is milder than many. I plan to use 2 cans of the cherry puree for a more pronounced flavor. "Is there a better way to use this puree?" I plan to do it just like you did, but I'll use 2 cans for the 5 gallons and wait for the puree goo to settle out so I don't get it in the keg. (some of the posts in the archives complained that it took a long time for the puree to settle completely) Regards, Stacy Groene Columbus, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 08:16:11 -0500 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: RE: Quick Carbonation I've been using Steve Jones's quick carbonation method he described in digest #4112 back in December. http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/4112.html#4112-4 I'm having pretty good results, still trying to figure the times and temps. My beers are usually coming right out of the largering box at 30 degrees, so I just cut the times back a little. I still tend to over-carbonate though. Anyway, to my question, if one should want to force a 2.5 gallon keg, I was wondering if the times get cut or maybe this doesn't rely on volume as much as pressure/temperature? Having fun in the brewery, Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 11:06:26 -0500 From: "Rob Dewhirst" <rob at hairydogbrewery.com> Subject: Re: peach puree > Now there is a huge clump of yeast, and mostly peach puree (I believe) at > the bottom of each bottle... I brew about 6 batches of apricot beer a year with the Oregon fruit products. In my opinion, you did exactly what you should have done with regards to adding the puree, if you want a genuine fruit flavor and aroma. In my experience, the fruit flavor declines over time, and beers designed to bring out the fruit should be lighter bodied to begin with. If you still have fruit in the bottle and the fruit flavor is not very strong I would say lighten up the recipe a bit, cut back on the hops. It is not necessary to "rouse" the fruit puree to get a good flavor. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 10:16:12 -0700 From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com> Subject: Fermentation, racking and lagering Back in April, the brewer formerly known as Steve Alexander (-S) provided a response re a question about underpitching and went into a good deal of appreciated detail on pitching at the intended ferm temp (which I now do), pitching big ( I use a 1st or 2nd generation starter of 1 or 2 liters) and (!) racking off the yeast after the first day to remove the beer from the trub, cold break, dead yeast etc. While I usually rack at day 2 or 3 with a well-pitched and fermenting ale as soon as it slows enough to NOT blow over in a carboy, I am wondering what -S and the colloective feel would be the best protocol for lagers where (I believe) this is active fermenting yeast on the bottom. I currently leave my lagers in the primary much longer than ales (ie 1-2 weeks) before racking off the yeast into a carboy, allowing a 2 day rise to room temperature for diacetyl rest, and then slowly reducing to lagering temp back in the fridge over a couple days. As an unrelated question, for lagering temps I have read in several sources to lager as close to freezing as possible, while a tech at Wyeast suggested that a temp of 40-43F (4-6C) would allow the yeast in a 2278 Czech pils to reduce the (overly strong) sulfur aroma better. It never did lager out until I scrubbed with a few carbonate/bleed (and bleed, and bleed, and bleed) cycles with C02 in the keg. Does yeast metabolism actually play a role in the lagering phase, and if so is around 40F for 6-8 weeks a good all-around standard for lagers?? Steve Dale-Johnson Brewing at (1918, 298) Miles Apparent Rennerian (I'm west of Jeff ... shouldn't the degrees be negative???) Vancouver, BC, Canada. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 13:20:29 -0400 From: "Stephen Silverthorne" <s_silverthorne at sympatico.ca> Subject: Hoover Universal Kegs I have a 50L keg made by Hoover Universal that I would like to use as either a mash tun or hot liquor tank or fermenter. It has a rubber base and also a rubber top. The handles are part of the rubber. There is a bead of glue around where the rubber meets the steel but this is loose. It appears that the rubber top is held on by the collar for the dispensing equipment so I am worried that if I cut a large hole in the top of this keg, the handles will no longer be attached. Does anyone have any experience with using this type of keg in their home brewery? Also of some concern is whether the rubber will stand up to the heat required for use in brewing but another brewer pointed out that when this keg was in normal use, the brewery probably used heat for sanitizing it, so that is less of a worry. Thanks. <- Stephen Silverthorne Montreal, QC, Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 14:50:09 -0300 From: Daniel Chisholm <dmc at nbnet.nb.ca> Subject: Big Strange NB Brew I (New Brunswick, Canada) FWIW - just in case there are any HBD'ers who'd like to join us, I'll be hosting a Big Brew at my house Saturday, 7 June 2003. Anyone who'd like to join us, please email me for a little info-blurb.... - -- - Daniel Fredericton, NB Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 13:24:35 -0500 From: "Leonard, Phil" <Phil.Leonard at dsionline.com> Subject: RE: Goin' to Boulder If you have the time to get to Ft. Collins the New Belgium tour and tasting afterwards is well worth it. I've been to many brewery tasting rooms and New Belgium is by far my favorite. While you're there stop in at Coopersmith Brewpub in the old downtown area. Philip [612 251.4 AR] Overland Park, KS Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 12:27:40 -0600 From: "Mike Racette" <mike.racette at hydro-gardens.com> Subject: re: Goin' to Boulder Boulder has lots of good beer - much better than Denver's selection imho, but if I had to choose just one brewpub to go to it would probably be Mountain Sun. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 17:18:11 -0400 From: "Martin Brungard" <Martin.Brungard at trow.com> Subject: Re: Water, hardness, and alkalinity Michael Hartsock posed some questions regarding his Columbia, MO water. He boils his water for chlorine removal. He asks what the hardness and alkalinity of his water is after boiling. For chlorine removal, the boil time is only a few minutes. For chloramine, the time must be increased. In either case, the amount of water boiled off is minor. There are some chemical reactions that may occur due to the boiling that could affect hardness and alkalinity. But, this probably isn't a factor if the boil is short and other decarbonation and softening measures aren't used. Boiling is not a very good chlorine removal option in terms of time or cost, given the alternative removal methods. I prefer activated carbon filtering. For about $40, you can have a carbon filter that will serve you for a year or two, depending on use. Replacement carbon filters are on the order of $20 or less. I notice that propane is now about $20 per 20lb tank. I bet that this extra boiling is costing at least a dollar extra a batch. Who knows how much free time is worth. It all starts to add up...maybe that carbon filter isn't so costly after all. And you won't have to worry what the starting hardness and alkalinity of your water is after filtering! The water supply's hardness (148 ppm as CaCO3) is not really a problem, but I notice there is a good bit of magnesium in the water (18 ppm). That is about as high as I would like to go with a brewing water. I wouldn't add Epsom salts to any style you're trying to duplicate. The alkalinity of the water is fairly high, but that's easy to correct with a little acid or hardening. I see that Michael frequently hardens with gypsum. The amount he adds concerns me though. Several heaping tablespoons sounds kind of high. I estimate that increasing the calcium concentration to about 150 ppm is about as far as this water needs to go. That is about 6 to 7 grams of gypsum or 5 to 6 grams of Calcium Chloride in 4 gallons of mash water. I did some measuring a few years ago to find approximate volume equivalents for this kind of stuff. I think that the gypsum weight above is about 1 level tablespoon and the calcium chloride weight above is about 1 level teaspoon. Michael is likely overdoing the calcium and sulfate ions with the amount of gypsum added. I don't recommend volume measures for these mineral additions, get a scale that can get down to at least 1 gram accuracy (0.1 gram is better yet). I did an ion balance using the water report and can say that there is probably a significant cation missing from the water report. I figure that there may be sodium in the water. I figure its probably up in the 35 ppm range for the ions to balance. That sodium concentration isn't too bad if its true. The reported pH (8.84) is very troubling. Its higher than most water companies and water users like to see. Michael's pH meter reading (7.94) is more in line with the normal. The reported pH is high enough that you can't just assume all the alkalinity is from bicarbonate. I estimate that 10 percent of the alkalinity would be from carbonate if the reported pH were true. The other flavor ions (sulfate and chloride) are OK. Sulfate is a little high, but it shouldn't be to bad. Those heaping tablespoons of gypsum probably jacked the sulfate way up there though. Definitely don't use gypsum to harden when trying to accentuate sweetness or maltiness. Excepting for the alkalinity, magnesium, and sulfate content, I don't think the water is too bad a starting point. Its softer than my water supply. Have fun with it. Martin Brungard Tallahassee, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 21:40:23 +0000 From: AJ <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Boiling For Mike in MO: For starters, as your total hardness is 148 and your alkalinity less than this at 116 the permanent hardness is 148 - 116 = 32 ppm as CaCO3. That's the easy bit. It's a little tougher to guess what your mineral content might be after the boil. As a general rule "good" decarbonation will reduce the alkalinity to about 50 ppm as CaCO3. One unit of hardness goes with each unit of alkalinity so the reduction of alkalinity to 50 implies a loss of 66 units of hardness meaning that the calcium hardness would also be reduced by 66 to 5 ppm as CaCO3. In actulity the alkalinity will probably be reduced to more like 70 or 80 (i.e. by 46 or 36) resulting in calcium hardness of 25 or 35. I'm assuming that some precipitation takes place as decanting is mentioned. If the fullest decarbonation is desired (i.e. down to about 50) then add supplemental calcium chloride before boiling. Your residual alkalinity is about 86 - not that high. You can probably deal with that through the use of some high kilned malt rather than decarbonation of the water. You can dispose of the chlorine/chloramine by the use of half a campden tablet rather than boiling. The only way to be sure of the post boil chemistry is is to run a test. Hardness and alkalinity test kits can be had from several internet sources or from an aquarium supply store. 68 mg/L is pretty healthy sulfate to the extent that most beers are going to have accentuated hops bitterness. About the only way to beat this is to dilute the tap water with distilled or RO water. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 16:46:03 -0700 From: Jim Wilson <jgwilson at adelphia.net> Subject: Label archives There used to be a terrific commercial beer label archive at ftp.stanford.edu but I can't find it or it's not there anymore. Spencer points to ftp.funet.fi/pub/culture/beer/, but I can't gain entry to the images directory where I think the labels might be. Anyone have an idea where this great resource currently resides? Jim Wilson o \o __o /\ / `\ <> `\ `> `\ > (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) I ride my bicycle to ride my bicycle. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 21:43:54 -0500 From: "Patrick Hughes" <pjhinc at eriecoast.com> Subject: Places I didn't get the original post for some reason, but it sounds like Scott is looking for places in the Cleveland area? Rocky River Brewing Co. and Great Lakes Brewery are within 20 minutes of each other . Great Lakes is now a fairly large regional brewery [ west side of downtown] I don't think they are in the micro category anymore but I don't know. They have been around for a long time and are one of the nations premier breweries of any size. They have tours, pub, store, tasting room. Rocky River is a small brewpub brewing some excellant beers, many times as good or better then Great Lakes. The head brewer there is great and always willing to talk beer. There is a BOP/Pub in Strongsville about 20 minutes from Rocky River, they sell good beer that they make and I hear they have a good beer bar but I haven't checked that out yet. I could get more info if it is needed. Patrick Hughes Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 21:39:55 -0400 From: J & B Gallihue <jgallihue at comcast.net> Subject: Robert considers all grain Robert Sandefer asks about igloo Mash Tuns. He is thinking about experimenting with all-grain. Way to go Robert! Many of us have used an Igloo-brand cooler as a mash tun and it has changed our lives! You can get stuff designed for that cooler like a plastic perforated disk and a mechanism for raining water down onto the top of the mash. Visit your local homebrew store for details. I used to do it that way. In fact, before that, I used to do it another way that Charlie Papazian suggested. Now I have a really big rectangular cooler from BJ's. I usually do single infusion mashes (one temp). So I just mash in before bed. Come back in AM to find temp pretty much the same then dump in the sparge water. The liquid exits the cooler through a slotted manifold. The slotted manifold is made from pvc pipe that has slots cut in it with a hack saw. Some of the folks who have really been spiritually moved by this method have made websites. Here is one: http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com/MashTun.html I used to think sparging was a big pain in the mash. Now I just fill it and forget it! Hows that for an infomercial? Joel Gallihue Columbia, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 19:25:31 GMT From: "Howard"<eveer45q2 at verizon.com> Subject: post, PGh0bWw+DQoNCjxoZWFkPg0KPG1ldGEgbmFtZT0iR0VORVJBVE9SIiBjb250ZW50PSJNaWNyb3Nv ZnQgRnJvbnRQYWdlIDUuMCI+DQo8bWV0YSBuYW1lPSJQcm9nSWQiIGNvbnRlbnQ9IkZyb250UGFn ZS5FZGl0b3IuRG9jdW1lbnQiPg0KPG1ldGEgaHR0cC1lcXVpdj0iQ29udGVudC1UeXBlIiBjb250 ZW50PSJ0ZXh0L2h0bWw7IGNoYXJzZXQ9d2luZG93cy0xMjUyIj4NCjx0aXRsZT5OZXcgUGFnZSA1 PC90aXRsZT4NCjwvaGVhZD4NCg0KPGJvZHk+DQoNCjxwIGNsYXNzPSJNc29Ob3JtYWwiPjxicj4N Cjxmb250IGNvbG9yPSIjRjhGOEY4Ij48L2ZvbnQ+PC9wPg0KPHAgY2xhc3M9Ik1zb05vcm1hbCI+ DQo8Zm9udCBmYWNlPSJWZXJkYW5hIiBjb2xvcj0iYmxhY2siIHNpemU9IjEiIHN0eWxlPSJsaW5l LWhlaWdodDogMS4zNWVtIj4NCjxzcGFuIHN0eWxlPSJmb250LXNpemU6IDlwdDsgY29sb3I6IGJs YWNrOyBmb250LWZhbWlseTogVmVyZGFuYSI+TXkgbmFtZSBpcyBCaWxsIA0KTXllcnMgYW5kIEkg YW0gd3JpdGluZyB0byBpbnRyb2R1Y2UgbXkgY29tcGFueSwgQ3JlYXRpdmUgQ29tcHV0ZXIgQ29u c3VsdGFudHMuJm5ic3A7IA0KV2Ugd29yayB3aXRoIGNvbXBhbmllcyBsaWtlIHlvdXJzIHRvIGNy 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