HOMEBREW Digest #4294 Fri 11 July 2003

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  Schweinhaxen ("Trevor White")
  Odd Problem -- Don't do this! (David Wilbur)
  Mead Day ("David Craft")
  RE: Thin Beer & Sparge H2O Temp (Bill Tobler)
  Re: a nutrient hypothesis + a question about kit-yeasts ("Gregory D. Morris")
  Kit Yeast ("Harlan Nilsen")
  RE: Thermometer installation (Ronald La Borde)
  Making Tap Handles and Tap locking (Smallaxe27)
  Brewing Software for mac? (NO Spam)
  re. Solera technique ("John Misrahi")
  Keg Lid Leaks ("H. Dowda")
  RE: a nutrient hypothesis + a question about kit-yeasts ("Joris Dallaire")
  Raising Children With Beer (CD Powers)
  Thermometer installation ("Mike Sharp")
  re: AHA Pub Discount Program ("Mark Tumarkin")
  More AHA ("Mark Tumarkin")
  Re: Thermometer installation (Kent Fletcher)
  Re: Maris Otter = stuck mash? (Wes Smith)
  bottling with a tap-a-draft (g flo)
  Adjunct/ was re: ..., soft water ... ("Steve Alexander")
  Stainless Problem ("Tom Viemont")
  RE: Brewery names ("Scott and Lois Courtney")
  Re: Munich Breweries (mjkid)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:30:24 +1000 From: "Trevor White" <whitet at usq.edu.au> Subject: Schweinhaxen Dennis Lewis posted re Schweinhaxen in a Munich restaurant. This may be off the topic for the group, but I was in Munich during 1999 as well and had a most enjoyable meal of Schweinhaxen washed down with many different types of weissbier. Ever since I have wondered about the preparation of Schweinhaxen. Does anyone out there have any idea how the flavours are created? Cheers Trevor White Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 23:36:23 -0700 From: David Wilbur <davew at gibraltar.com> Subject: Odd Problem -- Don't do this! I am using the "wet towel/t-shirt" evaporative cooling setup to cool 10 gallons of beer. The beer is in two carboys using two separate towels. I also used a timer, hooked to an evaporative cooler pump, and a couple of cheap plastic ring sprinklers to recirculate the water every three hours. The humidity in my area has been less than 10% for a while. This setup is inside of a closed, air-conditioned, 9ft by 15ft room that is staying at 78 F. All this is important so that you can get a feel for the amount of evaporation that is going on. The cooling system is all working quite well. The beer is currently 67 F and happily fermenting away. Here is the weird part. My brewing partners and I decided to throw some Iodophor in the cooling water to keep any "nasties" from growing. Apparently, all the Iodophor evaporates first. There is absolutely no color to the water after a couple days. There is, however, an orange stain on the walls, cabinets, floor, refrigerator, ceiling and just about everything else in the room! What a mess, I hope it comes off. Is there any sort of "magic" cleaner I can use? Doesn't Billy Mays dump oxy-clean into tubs of Iodine? Would some KILZ and fresh paint job be better? Maybe I should have used bleach? If only someone (or a couple of people, perhaps from Africa...) was willing to just give me $60,000,000 dollars, with no strings attached, I could afford to just get a new brewery. ;) David Wilbur [Southwest a bunch, in Scottsdale, Arizona -- AR] Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 06:33:09 -0400 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: Mead Day Greetings, Does anyone know with Mead Day fast approaching why the recipe and remittance form are not posted to the AHA site? I emailed the AHA a few weeks ago and never heard back. I hope the recipe doesn't require any unusual ingredients or special honey........ Regards, David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Guild, Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 06:51:32 -0500 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: RE: Thin Beer & Sparge H2O Temp A clip from Jonathan's post yesterday: "While I have also read that 170F sparge water should inactivate the enzymes, there must be some time dependency in that inactivation." Steve A. wrote a great post (Actually it's two, part 1 & 2) last year on the deactivation of enzymes. Below is the link. http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/4011.html#4011-2 Cheers! Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 09:46:09 -0400 (EDT) From: "Gregory D. Morris" <gmorris at literati.com> Subject: Re: a nutrient hypothesis + a question about kit-yeasts <<Even if there isn't any nutrient added to the original package, dead yeast cells are often good for other yeast to feed off right? >> Everyone has always told me that when yeast eat the dead yeast, you'll get a lot of off-flavors and smells. I don't think that it would be a major problem doing what you propose, however, because there really wouldn't be that many dead yeast cells to be eaten. As for there being nutrients in the packets, I'm not sure about that. Some of the kits I have used come with the same packets of generic (Muntons or otherwise) "Brewers yeast" that I sometimes get at my HB shop. Also, I have used a few kinds of kits, and the yeast has always been completely viable (even in old clearance sale kits.) I just made a golden ale from a kit (forget the brand off-hand) and it turned out perfect. If you are worried about the yeast not being the right kind, or good enough for your beer, or not viable, I suggest not using kits in the first place. If you want a custom beer, make a custom beer. If you want a pre-fab beer, just follow the instructions. - -- - ----------------------- Gregory Morris Web Developer Literati (304) 296-8026 ext.139 gmorris at literati.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:37:59 -0500 From: "Harlan Nilsen" <ramnrah at nebi.com> Subject: Kit Yeast What I have done in the past is just throw it in the boil and let it be a yeast energizer. This will not change the flavor of your beer but will help the good yeast you put in. I also do this with yeasts (both wine or beer) that I have had around for awhile. As for the cost of putting in what you know is good fresh yeast, you can buy a pack of Coopers or other for around a dollar or less. Small cost to know that your beer will ferment well and be good when done. Hope this helps. Harlan Nilsen YE OLDE BASEMENT BREWERY Latest brews: California Common-----5.4%abv American Pale Ale------5.6% American Amber Ale---5.2% American Brown Ale---5.7% Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 08:43:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Ronald La Borde <pivoron at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Thermometer installation >From: mailto:pacman at edwardwadsworth.com > >I have a couple of long stem dial thermometers that I >want to install in >my Mash tun and kettle. Both are SS (thermometers >and kettles). The >pisser is that the therm's haven't got the threaded >nut at the base of >the dial like some that I have seen I haven't tried it myself, but a suggestion read on the HBD long ago suggested using a compression fitting, except remove the brass compression ring and use an o-ring instead. This should work for a thermometer stem, as well as for any probe or tubing that you need to attach. It also allows removal to be easy. Also, if you would like to see my homemade probe protector, take a look at my web page. Ron ===== Ron Ronald J. La Borde -- Metairie, LA New Orleans is the suburb of Metairie, LA www.hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 11:58:11 EDT From: Smallaxe27 at aol.com Subject: Making Tap Handles and Tap locking Has anyone in the group made their own tap handles? I'm curious what sort of threads will fit in the female end of the faucet. I'm also interested in ways of locking the taps. As a student and a father of 2, hobby money is somewhat short. Thus I'm not buying any $40. tap locks, but looking to come up with another way of preventing my 3 year old from playing with the taps. Weighing in late on names, mine Smallaxe Brewery is from the Bob Marley song about the little guy taking on the big guys. Seems to fit. Lastly, I'll be sailing to Kowloon shortly on a mission of beery rescue and multilevel marketing. Can anyone recommend any good brewpubs in the area? Any problems bringing full carboys into US ports? Steve G. Cobbling stuff together outside Philly Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 12:42:13 -0400 From: NO Spam <nospam at brewbyyou.net> Subject: Brewing Software for mac? Awhile back, there was a discussion about various brewing software, and I remember someone posted they were looking for some good mac brewing software. So am I. Anybody find any? Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 12:49:48 -0400 From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: re. Solera technique Does anyone know where I can get a copy of Jeff Renner's article on Solera kegs that appeared in Zymurgy? Is it on-line somewhere? I have a pretty awesome tasting sour brown ale (using Wyeast Roeselare blend) and i'd like to try making some subsequent batches by 'feeding' the existing culture. -john- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 09:59:31 -0700 (PDT) From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com> Subject: Keg Lid Leaks OK a duhhh question. I have almost stopped kegging because of pressure loss in the kegs. It seems due to small slow leaks in the keg lid o-rings (new, old and middle aged). It is impossible to keep a keg on a pressure system when it leaks as the CO2 tank is rapidly depleted (duhhh). Any ideas? TIA. Private e-mail fine. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 14:21:15 -0400 From: "Joris Dallaire" <Joris.Dallaire at meq.gouv.qc.ca> Subject: RE: a nutrient hypothesis + a question about kit-yeasts On Wed, 09 Jul 2003, Stu asks opinion about rehydrating the so-called "bad" yeast and heating the cells to use it as the basis for a starter. >Even if there isn't any nutrient added to the original package, >dead yeast cells are often good for other yeast to feed off right? Yeast feeds off dead cells when it runs out of nutrients in the wort. It's called autolysis and gives bad taste to your beer. It usually happens when fermentation temp is too high or fermentation too long. So personnally i wouldn't recommend autolysis in a starter. I used Coopers kits in the late years when i brewed from extract and they were amongst the best kits availlable IMO. My advice on the yeast included is DON'T THROW IT!!! Keep it in the fridge for backup if your starters don't smell right on brew day, or if fermentation doesn't start. If you are going to throw them, well, send 'em to me, i'll pay for postage :O)! I used to always buy a couple of Coopers dried yeast as backups along with my liquid yeast before i switched to Lallemand dried yeast (,cuz they have bigger packs). OTH! Joris, brewing in Quebec,Canada Joris Dallaire, Programmeur-analyste Groupe CGI Projet Contact - 644-5348 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:01:42 -0700 (PDT) From: CD Powers <cpowers1114 at yahoo.com> Subject: Raising Children With Beer Hello, I have a question to those members of the collective with children. I have so far successfully managed to continue brewing with a three-year-old and a 5-month-old. My wife has noted my commitment to the hobby, and wonders how other brewing families have dealt with having both lots of beer in the house and a presumably more liberal (in the politically-neutral sense of the word!) view of its consumption when the children get older and wonder what all of the fuss is about. Would you let an older (adolescent) child share in the fruits of your labor now and then, like some folks would allow a little glass of wine at Thanksgiving or Passover? How about a low-alcohol table beer with dinner? Would having exposure to better-quality beer in a supervised setting contribute to a young adult's ability to make informed choices with regard to alcohol consumption, or be the first step on the road to early debauchery? My own personal hope is that my kids will grow up with a more "European" attitude to the place of alcohol in the diet, develop a sensible aversion to mass quantities of BMC, and could be trusted to have a glass now and again with no ill physical or social effects, but I could also be particularly naive about how children actually turn out. I hope to hear lots of good advice and success stories! Thanks, Christopher Powers Portland OR Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 12:59:44 -0700 From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com> Subject: Thermometer installation Parker Dutro asked for suggestions on Thermometer installation Find a comression fitting that's close to the size of the themometer stem. Take out the ferrule (the little ring inside the compression fitting) and replace it with an appropriately sized o-ring. Or you can get nylon ferrules, if the stem is a close fit. But you don't want to compress the stem very far at all, or else you might interfere with the bimetal strip. Regards, Mike Sharp Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 17:55:43 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: re: AHA Pub Discount Program Hey y'all, Since Dave wrote concerning his less than satisfactory experience with the Pub Discount Program, we've had several posts on the topic. Some have been positive, others not so positive. At the risk of having Steven accuse me of pimping the program, I'll make a few comments as well; and like Phil Sides, I'm a member of the AHA Board of Advisors but these opinions are my own, not official AHA policy. But hey, that's why they wanted Advisors and y'all elected us to the position ..... to give our opinions on issues affecting the AHA. And Dave, just to let you know, Steve Jones (another AHA BOA member who regularly reads & posts to the HBD) had sent on your post to the BoA and the AHA staff the day you posted it here. We want this program to work well for all of us and will continue to work to make it better. We have also heard reports of AHA members going into participating pubs only to find the staff or management is not aware of their establishment's participation in the program. The program definately still has some rough edges. Though it is still relatively new (less than a year old) it is rapidly growing. On the positive side, more locations are being added all the time. Check out the insert listing all the locations in the last issue of Zymurgy - it was a great issue with all the Bell's clone recipes, by the way. So, Steve, even if you think your AHA membership's only good for Zymurgy, that alone is worth the cost. Ray Daniels continues to make it better & better. But most of us feel there are other worthwhile benefits as well - including the PDP. It continues to improve as well, the next step will be to add some of the well known beer bars to the program (watch for more info soon). There is no standard discount to be offered with the Pub Discount Program, it is entirely up to the participating pub or restaurant. Some offer the discount only on beer, others on the entire meal, and others on merchandise only (the laws of some states prohibit discounts on alcohol). While the Rock Bottom Dave visited didn't offer the discount to the entire party, Phil & Paul report that their local Rock Bottoms have discounted the entire bill 20%. Rock Bottom is committed to the Pub Discount Program, to the point of printing up their own discount cards that have been distributed to AHA members, so I suspect this is a communication issue that will be resolved within internally - hopefully soon. On another issue concerning the PDP, it's up to all of us to make it work well if we want it to continue to improve & expand rather than dry up & dissappear. What I mean by this is we all need to use it... and let the managers know we're using it. They have signed on to give us discounts, what they want in return is for the program to bring them new customers, and for those customers (us) to then spread the word about their establishments & craft-brewed beer. If the program isn't used, they won't see the benefit in it to offset their cost (discounted bills, time spent training staff on the program, etc). We don't all have participating pubs in our local areas (hopefully this will change!), but if you do, or when you travel, go into the participating pubs and talk to the manager or the brewer. Let them know that you appreciate the discount program and their participation. Mark Tumarkin Hogtown Brewers Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 17:55:54 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: More AHA On another topic concerning the AHA, Marc Sedam wrote suggesting that the National Homebrew Conference be moved around to different areas of the country each year. That is already being done - to as great an extent as possible. We want the conference to move around so that everyone gets the opportunity to have it close to them - so that they can drive or at least get there more cheaply. However, just as the AHA as a whole has become more of a grass-roots organization, so has the NHC. Since the conference in Kansas City 6 years ago, the NHC has been organized & run by groups of local clubs working together. This is the key to the huge success of recent conferences, especially Chicago. We try to work ahead as much as possible, so as to announce the site for the next conference at the Awards Banquet each year. It will be in Las Vegas next year. We already have clubs working to put together bids for 2005 and onward. And there is interest on the East Coast.... clubs in several areas have asked for the bid info package. I'm trying to interest the Florida clubs in putting in a bid. Location selection mainly depends on getting a strong group of local clubs interested - of course, other factors like reasonably priced hotel that will accept us bringing in copius amounts of beer, and ideally destinations that would also interest SWMBO 7 the family. So talk to the clubs in your area and if there's interest in hosting a conference, you can email me or any of the other BOA members, or the AHA staff directly to get the bid packet. There were some good posts on the success of the Chicago conference already so I don't need to expand on how great it was. But Steve, if you get the chance to attend an NHC, don't miss it. I think you'd then agree there's more to the AHA than just Zymurgy (or the PDP, events like Big Brew, Mead Day or Teach a Friend to Brew Day, or discounts & special sessions for the Great American Beer Festival, TechTalk, the AHA Beertown website, the sanctioned competitions program (including the Club-Only Competitions & the National Homebrew Conference (by far the largest comp around), not to mention participating in key support for the brewing community - including both home & pro brewers, etc). Well, enough pimping the AHA. But while I'm on the subject of the Chicago NHC, I guess I should publicly apologize to Marc Ohrstrom for letting him down. As you know, Marc stood up for the honor of the AHA & challanged detractor Sean McDonald to a Slamdown Duel at the conference. Marc had asked me to be his second, but, since the Slamdown was scheduled for 5am, I slept through it. Sean didn't show up, so I guess no harm was done. I'll just plead too much late night fun & beer as my excuse. Mark Tumarkin Hogtown Brewers Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:30:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Thermometer installation Parker Dutro is having difficulty inserting his thermometer: "The pisser is that the therm's haven't got the threaded nut at the base of the dial like some that I have seen. (snip) Does anyone here have a really good way to address my problem? Thanks" Hi Parker, I'm going to assume that you have a thermometer with a 3/16" diameter stem, a typical brewing dial type. What you want to use is a male flare fitting, a flare cap and a number 008 O-ring. Use an adaptor that is 1/2" MPT (assuming your bulkhead opening is 1/2", if not, substitute whatever size you need) on one side and 1/4" male flare on the other. Prep by screwing the cap on snug and then drill through (from the 1/2" side) bothe the male flare and the cap with a 3?16" bit. Remove the cap and install the adaptor into your bulkhead fitting. Insert the stem through the cap, then slide the O-ring down inside the threaded portion of the cap. Stick the thermometer stem through the male flare to the point that you want it to protrude inside your vessel, then slide the cap down and thread it onto the male flare, tighten down just snug with your fingers. Adjutable, removable for cleaning, and leak-free. The same set-up can work for other size stems by using the right flare fitting and O-ring. Pocket-type thermometers with smaller shafts follow the same procedure, using an O-ring and bit matching shaft the thermometer diameter, such as number 006 for 1/8". With a 1/4" shaft, use the flare nut instead of the cap, drill the male flare fitting with a 1/4" bit, and use a 009 O-ring (it will be a slight stretch-fit on the shaft). Hope that helps, Kent Fletcher Brewing in So Cal Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 10:02:02 +1000 From: Wes Smith <wsmith at rslcom.net.au> Subject: Re: Maris Otter = stuck mash? Paul Kensler is having problems with his Maris Otter mashes - its a bit difficult to diagnose without some more data like time and temp, water treatment, type of mash tun (HERMS/RIMS or simple Infusion), any amylase additions and crush. The gray protein sludge is coming from excessive protein breakdown in the mash tun. These malts (Thomas Fawcett or Crisp) are fine malts and true to traditional English styles. They are FULLY modified and typically low protein and usually all but mash themselves producing lovely clean runoffs and full bodied beers. The usual mash parameters are a longish rest at 66C (151F) - say 70 to 90 mins with a liquor to grist ratio of around 3:1 and a mash pH of 5.3 to 5.5. Any time spent down in protein rest territory would definitely lead to the problems mentioned above. Another point to consider is the crush - it cant be too fine for some single infusion systems. You need the coarser crush to stop the grain bed compacting. What efficiency do you achieve typically? Maybe with some of the above parameters we can get a bit closer to the problem Wes. (We import Thomas Fawcett malts into Australia and New Zealand) I've got a recurring problem whenever I used Maris >Otter malts (I've used Crisp in the past, and I'm >working my way through a sack of Fawcett right now). >Each and every time, I get a HUGE amount of grey >protein sludge on top of the mash. I Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 18:16:26 -0700 (PDT) From: g flo <gflo77 at yahoo.com> Subject: bottling with a tap-a-draft I was wondering if anyone has any experience force carbonating using the tap-a-draft system, and then bottling. It seems straight forward enough, but I was wondering if anyone had tried it and had any warnings or suggestions before I try it. I know the tap-a-draft has a tendency towards foaming, so I plan to get the force-carbed beer pretty close to freezing before I bottle it. The is the best I can do until I have the space/money for a proper kegging system. Any suggestions are appreciated. Greg Flores Santa Cruz, CA http://emptyboxbrewing.blogspot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 21:44:21 -0400 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Adjunct/ was re: ..., soft water ... >AlK's and AJ's comments about making beer from soft water [...] >No question lagers from soft >water are far superior, but also many of the other styles benefit.The mineral >myth seems to have started in Britain, perhaps as a marketing thing. I agree that there is something superior about DI water pils, but other darker styles - even an o'fest - don't seem to need the extreme lack of minerals so much. I have mixed feelings about high mineral content in ales. Magnesium else a lot of calcium change the character of an ale - or so I think - but I'm not quite sure if it's for the better or worse. On a different but related topic - I'm not sure that we HBers make British ales at all like the Brits do. I was perusing M&BS and they state that the mix of adjuncts in British beer has remained quite constant for decades. At the time of the writing in 1976 the average brewers 'grist' in Britain was 76.8% malt, 9.0% starchy adjunct, and 14.2% copper(boiler) sugar and syrup adjunct. Also that UK production of crystal malt accounted for only 3% of the malt used ! Those percentages are not necessarily typical of any particular beer, but the percentages in use are vastly different from most ale recipes I've seen. A recipe w/ 8.5lbs of malt, 4oz of crystal, a pound of torrified barley, and 1.5lbs of sugar just doesn't sound familiar ! Barley and wheat in various forms seemed to top the starchy adjunct list. No clear list for the sugar & syrup adjunct except a trend then away from sucrose and toward starch hydrolysis mixes that have about the same fermentability as wort. Something to think about when you are making your next IPA ... -S Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 21:10:01 -0500 From: "Tom Viemont" <t_viemont at hotmail.com> Subject: Stainless Problem Greetings Fellow Brewers! I recently picked up a wayward keg at a junkyard for $11. The local welder cut a nice hole in the top with a plasma cutter and drilled the side to fit a Weld-B-Gone fitting. I cleaned it out with Beer Brite and used a wire brush on a couple of spots (I know that was the wrong thing to do now). All was right with the world, so I filled it up for a pre-flight test boil. While the water was heating, I noticed that there were a couple of tiny spots of rust on the inside of the pot. These seem to be deposits of regular (non-stainless) steel that came about from the wire brush I used most likely, though they could be from the plasma cutter, I suppose. I've tried to remove them with a brass brush, multiple scotchguard pads, beer brite, and elbow grease, but I can still feel and see them in the metal. They seem to be pretty deep. One article I read in the Brewing Techniques archives indicated that nitric acid would remove these steel deposits. I am running out of elbow. I'd appreciate any advice. Will these spots effect the finished product if I do nothing? Thanks! Hope you're enjoying the summer! Tom Viemont Raleigh, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 21:16:51 -0500 From: "Scott and Lois Courtney" <courtney03 at iquest.net> Subject: RE: Brewery names In response to the 'brewery names' request (I'm behind in reading the digest...): I call my (not as productive as I'd like it to be) brewery Tranquility Base Brewery. I was born in 1969 soon after the Apollo 11 landing, I'm an Aero Engineer, and I think that there's nothing more tranquil than coming home from a long day at work and drinking a brewski made by yours truly. Not to mention the aroma of crystal malt or an all grain mash. Scott Indy, IN Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 22:41:34 -0400 From: mjkid at rochester.rr.com Subject: Re: Munich Breweries On 9 Jul 2003 at 7:43, Abe Kabakoff wrote: > The Ayinger Brewery has regular tours, and their tour was pretty cool. > They're a 40 minute light-rail ride outside of Munich in a beautiful > little town. Their number is (08095) 8890. I seem to remember that > English tours are possible. I was in Munich in April of last year, and did the Ayinger tour. As Abe mentions, it's a beautiful train ride to Aying, which is near the Bavarian Alps. The new brewery is state-of-the-art, and the tasting room is quite nice. Our tour was in German, so getting an English tour may just depend on timing. You will have to walk a couple kilometers when you get off the train. On the return trip to Munich, Forschungs Brauerei is a logical stop. (I forget the station, but the "The Beer Drinkers Guide to Munich" has all the details. Be sure to get a copy before you go) I got a personal tour from the founders grandson, who presented me with a .5 L krug when we left. We wound up sitting at a regulars table, but they didn't give us a hard time about it, and by the time we left, they had invited us to sit at their table anytime we visited. They also pointed out a grammar error in the book;-) > > Just outside of Munich in Feldkirchen is where I used to work: > Fliegerbraeu. Fifteen months ago I would have given you the tour. I > know the current brewer's English is good. The number is (089) 99 100 > 191, the S-Bahn stop is Feldkirchen on the S6. The restaurant opens at > 11, and the brewers are there until 4:30 or 5 on weekdays. I believe > they charge 3 Euros for a tour, and you get a small beer with it. Their > sister brewery, Isarbraeu (S-Bahn S7-Grosshesselohe-Isartalbahnhof), > also gives tours, and the brewmaster has done tours in English before. > Their number is (089) 79 89 61. We were there almost exactly 15 months ago, and Abe indeed did give us the tour of Fliegerbreau. (Hi, Abe!) There was three of us, all homebrewers from Rochester, NY, one of whom is currently living in Munich. Very nice tour, and the wheat beer in the small garden out back, along with some weisswurst, made for a memorable morning. We then proceeded to the town of Erding, to tour the Erdinger brewery. This is a well worthwhile trip. You have to catch a bus from the train station, and the schedule is a bit tricky. The bus does stop right in front of the brewery, though. The tour starts in the tasting room, which is beautiful. We all had the Pinkatus, of course;-) The tour isn't very technical, since the folks that give the tours are hostess types, not brewers. The bottling line is incredible, something like 160,000 bottles per hour, 20 hours a day. And, at the hostess heated up some weisswurst for us. All in all, a great day of brewery tours. Mike Kidulich Rochester, NY Return to table of contents
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