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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Electric kettle control ("Dan Listermann")
  Gluten-Free Beer (Jonathan Royce)
  N2 or O2 Sensor ? ("Pete Calinski")
  Re:Electric Kettle Control ("Pete Calinski")
  re: Mash temp and yeast for a Foghorn Clone (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com>
  Question for Brew Crap Organizers (rickdude02)
  Re: Mash temp and yeast for a Foghorn Clone (Jeff Renner)
  Bubbles ("Dave Burley")
  San Jose pubs ("Bridges, Scott")
  Homebrewing in Sports Illustrated ("Paul Gatza")
  New to All Grain ("David Gates")
  re: you've got mail (John Coppens)
  Re: you've got mail (Scott Alfter)
  multiple yeasts/Dr Cone (Jim Busch)


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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 08:31:23 -0400
From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com>
Subject: Electric kettle control

<Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:45:30 -0700
From: yax <yax75 at shaw.ca>
Subject: Electric Kettle Control

What is a good way of controlling your boil in an electric kettle? I was
thinking about using just a stove rheostat, or else using two switches
in line of the element. With both switches on 240 V would be supplied
and with just one switch on only 120 V would be supplied. I have heard
of some people using PID controllers, but this seems like overkill. Any
suggestions would be great though. >

I have had good luck using two elements with different wattages.  Plugging
in one, the other or both give me 3 levels of control.  I am designing a new
kettle that will have three different wattage elements.  This should give me
7 levels of control.  I am going to use switches this time.


Dan Listermann

Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com

Free shipping for orders greater than $35
and East of the Mighty Miss.






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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 05:31:48 -0700
From: Jonathan Royce <jonathan at woodburybrewingco.com>
Subject: Gluten-Free Beer

On 26 Aug AJ asked about celiac sprue and gluten-free beer.

On r.c.b., there are several people who brew GF beers in order to work around 
celiac. Here are two recent threads to look at:

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-
8&threadm=BdQY7.159919%248w3.35047297%40typhoon.kc.rr.com&rnum=2&prev=/groups%
3Fq%3Dgluten%2Bfree%2Bgroup:rec.crafts.brewing%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%
26oe%3DUTF-8%26group%3Drec.crafts.brewing%26selm%3DBdQY7.159919%
25248w3.35047297%2540typhoon.kc.rr.com%26rnum%3D2

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-
8&threadm=1e620d5e.0305282230.175e9418%40posting.google.com&rnum=8&prev=/groups%
3Fq%3Dgluten%2Bfree%2Bgroup:rec.crafts.brewing%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%
26oe%3DUTF-8%26group%3Drec.crafts.brewing%26selm%3D1e620d5e.0305282230.175e9418%
2540posting.google.com%26rnum%3D8

Sorry for the long hyperlinks. You may have to cut/paste all five lines of each 
individually to get to the correct thread. 

This webpage is listed by one of the threads as well and looks (at first 
glance) as if it contains a good deal of info on exactly this topic:
http://www.fortunecity.com/boozers/brewerytap/555/gfbeer/gfbeer.htm

HTH,
Jonathan
Woodbury Brewing Co.
www.woodburybrewingco.com


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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:06:10 -0400
From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net>
Subject: N2 or O2 Sensor ?

Dave asked, "Pete,

Don't you mean you will see <oxygen> sensors where nitrogen ( and other
gases)
are stored?  Nitrogen makes up 80% of air."

Actually, I guess I don't know what the actual factor(s) were to activate
the alarm.  I became acquainted with these devices in two cases, one was a
Scanning Electron Microscope that used liquid N2 for super-cooling and the
other was an area where LN2 was stored.  Both had a sensing and alarm device
on the wall.  I assumed that the device measured the N2 concentration and
alarmed when it exceeded an acceptable level.  Of course, it could have
sensed the ratio of O2/N2 (typically 20%/78%) and alarmed when that was out
of range.

I just remember the lecture that said, "If the CO2 level gets too high, your
lungs will start to burn but if the N2 level gets too high, you don't know
it, you just drop over, ker-plunk."



Pete Calinski
East Amherst NY
Near Buffalo NY

http://hbd.org/pcalinsk


***********************************************************
*My goal:
*      Go through life and never drink the same beer twice.
*     (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.)
***********************************************************



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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:23:32 -0400
From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net>
Subject: Re:Electric Kettle Control

I use an electric stove surface burner temperature controller.  It isn't a
rheostat, it is basically an On/Off device that uses an internal heater to
control the On to Off time ratio.

If a rheostat was used, the power not delivered to the burner would have to
be dissipated in the rheostat.  That would take a mighty big rheostat and
make a lot of heat.

If you do use the controller, I suggest you include some type of pilot light
so you can tell when  the controller is in the "on" state.  Every controller
I have seen includes a terminal for the pilot light.

Hope this helps.




Pete Calinski
East Amherst NY
Near Buffalo NY

http://hbd.org/pcalinsk


***********************************************************
*My goal:
*      Go through life and never drink the same beer twice.
*     (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.)
***********************************************************



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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:37:51 -0400
From: "Barrett, Bob (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com>
Subject: re: Mash temp and yeast for a Foghorn Clone

Charley Burns from who knows where writes:

I'm ready for my next attempt to try and clone old foghorn.
Assuming 2-row or pale ale malt for 90% and 10% crystal, what is
recommended mash temp and which yeast is recommended?

I would suggest reading the article by Amahl Turczyn Scheppach in the 
July/August 2003 Zymurgy on Anchor Brewing.  He has a clone recipe
there for Old Foghorn.  Mash temp is 148F and the yeast is 
California Ale yeast.  Hops are 100% Cascade.  The Anchor
Brewing website also has info on their barleywine and they too say
it is nothing but cascade hops and a "true top fermenting ale yeast".  
They also say they only use the first runnings.  That would make 
a big difference IMHO.  Here is the link to Old Foghorn on the 
Anchor website:

http://www.anchorbrewing.com/beers/oldfoghorn.htm 

We make the beer we drink!!
Bob Barrett
Ann Arbor, Michigan
(2.8,103.6) Rennerian


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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 06:50:33 -0400 (GMT)
From: rickdude02 at earthlink.net
Subject: Question for Brew Crap Organizers

I certainly started to get caught up on my reading at an opportune
moment.  As local homebrewers will attest my brewhouse is a wreck.

Even when it's at its neatest, though, I still have a problem with
one particular piece of equipment.  Does anyone have suggestions 
for storing a CF Chiller neatly?  My problem is that it's home-
made and easily flexes out of shape.  Plus, with two ends going
off at different directions and the cooling hoses, it gets 
awfully bulky.

And don't tell me that I need to brace it to keep it from being too
flexible-- it gets used on a variety of pots, so we (the brew club)
regularly make slight adjustments to angles and such.

Rick Theiner
LOGIC, Inc.


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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:42:53 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Mash temp and yeast for a Foghorn Clone

"Charley Burns" <charleyburns at sbcglobal.net> writes from an 
undisclosed location (but I remember that he's in California, I think 
NoCal):

>I'm ready for my next attempt to try and clone old foghorn.
>
>This time I'll stick with northern brewer hops all the way through, even
>though Michael Jackson thinks they use some cascade.

Not only does MJ think they use Cascade, so does Fritz Maytag, or at 
least, whoever writes their publicity.

http://www.anchorbrewing.com/beers/oldfoghorn.htm :

"Old Foghorn is highly hopped, using only Cascade hops. ... is 
dry-hopped with additional Cascade hops while it ages in our cellars 
 ... for over six months."

>I used cascade last time but the gravity was so high (1.115) that 
>everything else was thrown off. I lost my notes so I don't know what 
>yeast it was, but it was probably wyeast 2112 (lager yeast 
>masquerading as an ale yeast).

Again, not authentic, according to the same web page:

"It is fermented with a true top-fermenting ale yeast."

So now you're 0 for 2.  :-)

>Assuming 2-row or pale ale malt for 90% and 10% crystal, what is
>recommended mash temp and which yeast is recommended?

At barley wine gravities, I think residual sweetness and body are 
going to be there regardless.  You probably should mash at a moderate 
temperature for full fermentability.  This might be a good time to 
use a good quality dry yeast properly rehydrated since you want yeast 
in prime condition.  Windsor (for more fermentation character) or 
Nottingham (more neutral) come to mind.  Otherwise, any fully 
attenuating ale yeast should work, with American Ale (1056/001) a 
proven workhorse.  I myself don't like it or Nottingham as I find 
them too neutral, but it's not my beer.

Jeff
- -- 
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943


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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:24:26 -0400
From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net>
Subject: Bubbles

Brewsters,

/Fredik continues his bubble rate research on the assumption he can work out
the kinetics. He even considers using a hydrometer, which is nearly useless
mid-fermentation due to the carbon dioxide bubbles which cling to the
hydrometer, giving false readings. Also the hydrometer readings are confused
by the mixture of sugar and alcohol which occurs mid-fermentation. Don't waste
your time.

The only real way to determine fermentation progress is by watching the
disappearance of the fermentable sugars directly.  Clinitest kit can be used
to determine the disappearance of reducible sugars as a good approximation.
Any sucrose ( non-reducible)  in the mash is converted pretty quickly to
reducible sugars by external-to-the-yeast-cell invertase enzymes.  Try that as
part of your research to follow fermentation progress.  Contact me offline for
details.

Keep on Brewin'

Dave Burley




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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:58:42 -0400
From: "Bridges, Scott" <ScottBridges at sc.slr.com>
Subject: San Jose pubs


It looks like I'll be in San Jose/Milpitas on business for a few days
starting Sun Sept 7.  I'd appreciate some pointers on good brewpubs and/or
beer bars in the area.  I'll be staying in Milpitas, so anything closer to
there is better.  I'll have a car.

Thanks in advance,
Scott



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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:10:38 -0600
From: "Paul Gatza" <paul at aob.org>
Subject: Homebrewing in Sports Illustrated

Hi all. Association of Brewers marketing director Cindy Jones and I have
been working with Sports Illustrated to support an upcoming article by Jeff
Cox. The piece is on homebrewing and will publish in the "Homeowners"
section on September 15th. This section of the magazine is dedicated to
activities other than sports that SI readers are into. The catch is that
only about one third of subscribers and newsstands get issues that will have
this section. The concentration of distribution will be in suburban
locations--so if you pick up the issue, you may want to see if it has the
article.

Paul Gatza
Director
American Homebrewers Association
736 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO 80302
ph: +1.303.447.0816 ext. 122
fax: +1.303.447.2825
www.beertown.org

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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 08:28:34 -0700
From: "David Gates" <gates at pacificcoast.net>
Subject: New to All Grain

I have brewed a few batches of all grain without much success (through my
own fault) and I have a question about the hot break.

I am assuming it is hot break because this white flakey type stuff forms
while I do the boil of the wort.

Who do I get rid of this because it always seems to make it through right to
the bottling/kegging point and takes forever to settle out.

I never hear much about this subject so I really don't know what it is or
what to do about it.

Please help.

David Gates



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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 13:06:45 -0300
From: John Coppens <john at jcoppens.com>
Subject: re: you've got mail

On Thu, 28 Aug 2003 01:35:23 -0400
homebrew-request@hbd.org (Request Address Only - No Articles) wrote:

> re: you've got mail

Hi Scott, Pat

I wouldn't be so sure that address harvesters don't parse the
[&#102;&#111;&#111;] - type of obfuscation correctly. It _is_ part of the
HTML specification, so why would a scanner ignore normal entities in a
normal HTML document? Many HTML editors even code the  at  as &64;
automatically.

I agree with Pat's method here...

John


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Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:32:17 -0700
From: Scott Alfter <scott at alfter.us>
Subject: Re: you've got mail

On Thu, Aug 28, 2003 at 01:06:45PM -0300, John Coppens wrote:
> On Thu, 28 Aug 2003 01:35:23 -0400
> homebrew-request@hbd.org (Request Address Only - No Articles) wrote:
> 
> > re: you've got mail
> 
> I wouldn't be so sure that address harvesters don't parse the
> [&#102;&#111;&#111;] - type of obfuscation correctly. It _is_ part of the
> HTML specification, so why would a scanner ignore normal entities in a
> normal HTML document? Many HTML editors even code the  at  as &64;
> automatically.

If I'm not mistaken, address harvesters work with raw HTML, not HTML that's
been parsed into text.  While it is possible that they could parse character
entities back into text (or could even use something like Lynx to parse the
entire page into plain text), it's more efficient for them to just grab a
page, search for "* at *.*", and move on if nothing else is found...for every
obfuscated email address, there are 100 non-obfuscated addresses that they
could target, and they'll see better results from pulling in as many
webpages as possible and doing simple searches than by going over each page
with a fine-toothed comb for anything that might be an email address (even
picking up something like "* at * dot *").

No method, short of something like whitelisting or a Turing test, is perfect
at blocking would-be spammers.  Throwing up a minor hurdle will block a fair
number of them, though.

Scott Alfter
scott at alfter.us



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Date: Thu, Aug 28 2003 13:59:25 GMT-0400
From: Jim Busch <jim at victorybeer.com>
Subject: multiple yeasts/Dr Cone

Chad writes:

******
On a large scale, it is impractical for commercial
establishments to use more than one strain. 
Contamination would result as
different batches passed through various equipment.
 You would in essence,
have to make two entirely separate breweries in order 
to use two differentstrains on a continuing basis.
******

To which I retort, hogwash! Its not yeast you 
need to worry about so much in 
brewing, its bacteria and wild yeasts. At our 
micro, we always have multiple yeast 
strains going at the same time, American Ale, 
BelgianAle, German lager, all the time. In 
addition we sometimes have British Ale and 
German Weiss. Sometimes we also have experimental 
yeasts that are being evaluated for new beers. 
Proper sanitation is all thats required.

Also, the larger the brewery, the more things
are hard piped with built in CIP systems to 
be sure that piping is well sanatized.

A big thanks to Dr Cone et al for taking time to 
helpout this community! I know I learned quite a 
few thingsfrom this discussion and am thankful to 
get the thinkingcap on again as a result.

Cheers,

Jim




  
 



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