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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Spruce Essence (Chain is useless 'gainst false Cupid)
  Flies in my oatmeal (stout) (RUSSG)
  SF Brewpubs (David Schwartz)
  Home Brew Club? (a.e.mossberg)
  re: Oatmeal stout... (Chris Shenton)
  Re: A possible cheap brew kettle? (Chris Shenton)
  Finings (cckweiss)
  AHA results, judging, ramblings, and a topping up question (Russell Greenlee)
  Regrets ("Gerth,Mark")
  Re: Auto Mash (Chuck Cox)
  Re: A possible cheap brew kettle? (Chuck Cox)


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Archives available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu


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Date: Mon, 2 Jul 90 08:23 CDT
From: Chain is useless 'gainst false Cupid <PTGARVIN at aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu>
Subject: Spruce Essence

I've purchased that same type of bottle, and I added it during the boil.  I
imagine one could just as well (and perhaps should) add it during the last
thirty seconds or so of the boil.  I'd think adding it during bottling
might be unsanitary (risky).


 - Ted
- --
"Strategic withdrawal is running away -- but with dignity." -- Tarrant
ptgarvin at aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu / ptgarvin at uokmax.UUCP | Hail Eris!      O
in the Society: Padraig Cosfhota o hUlad / Barony of Namron, Ansteorra  __|__
Disclaimer:  Fragile.  Contents inflammable.  Do not use near open flame.

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Date:     Mon, 2 Jul 90 09:25 EST
From: <R_GELINA%UNHH.BITNET at MITVMA.MIT.EDU> (RUSSG)
Subject:  Flies in my oatmeal (stout)

Last week I asked for suggestions to rid my cellar of fruit flies; well I
hung up a couple of fly-strips (you know, the gooey sticky things) and they
did the trick.  They're sort of messy, but they work.

Gary wanted to know about Oatmeal Stout, specifically Samuel Smith. I've
been fortunate enough to live near a store that is selling cases of all
types of Sam Smith ales for ~$18.00 US. I've seen them elsewhere for $12.00
a SIX-PACK! So needless to say, I've had *alot* of SS ales lately, and yes
the oatmeal stout is tremendous; lightly sweet and VERY smooth. It is
exceeded only by the amazing Nut Brown Ale, IMHO of course.

I think the key to SS ales is the buttery flavor, caused by the yeast being
unable to stay in suspension during ferment. I've been trying to figure a
way to force the yeast to drop, maybe using Irish Moss or gelatin finings.
Has anyone tried adding finings to the fermenting brew?  Or is there a good
recipe for a SS type ale?  (I don't know *much* about the particulars of
their Oatmeal Stout, sorry....)

RussG.

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Date: 2 Jul 1990 11:14:08 EDT
From: David Schwartz <DSCHWART at umab.umd.edu>
Subject:  SF Brewpubs

I'll be out in San Francisco soon, and would love to know
of brewpubs in the city to check out.  (I've been trying to
get hold of Michael Jackson's book, but to no avail so far.)

Thanks.

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Date: Mon, 2 Jul 90 11:29:07 EDT
From: a.e.mossberg <aem at mthvax.CS.Miami.EDU>
Subject: Home Brew Club?


I've heard a rumor from Craig of Wine and Brew that in the next
issue of Zymurgy a new home brew club will be launched, that will beat
*anybody else's * prices, period. Apparently you'll have to buy in
bulk quanities (a case of malt extract, a 50 lb. bag of malt, 100 lb
bag of dextrose, etc), but the prices will be lower than anywhere.

aem


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Date: Mon, 2 Jul 90 11:44:52 EDT
From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: re: Oatmeal stout...

"Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503  01-Jul-1990 2053" writes:
>     Can anyone enlighten me further on this phenomenon known as oatmeal
>     stout.
> 
>     P.S. The stout was Samuael Smith (Tadcaster).  Charlie says there is only
>          one brewed commercially, so that may be it.

One of my fave's, but there is (at least) one other, made by Youngs, and
also called Oatmeal Stout (surprise!). I prefer the Sam's version -- more
creamy and oatmealy; I was disappointed when I tried the Young's: thin
tasting and lacking a distinctive oatmeal taste. Now this is only a
relative judgement -- Young's is good, but...

As far as enlightenment, I've collected a couple recipes posted by people
here on the HBD for oatmeal stouts. I haven't tried making them yet, but
I'd be happy to forward them to you. Lemme know.


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Date: Mon, 2 Jul 90 11:52:19 EDT
From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: A possible cheap brew kettle?

Kenneth R. van Wyk writes:
> Apparently (though we're not certain) Budweiser kegs are made out of
> stainless steel.  For the price of the beer + the $15 (or so) deposit,
> one could cut the top off of the keg and use it as a kettle.  It even
> has nice handles at the top.  If I'm not mistaken, a quarter keg is in
> the order of 7.5 gallons.  Cutting and smoothing the top of the keg
> could be a bit of a hassle, but nothing that a few minutes with an
> oxi-acetylene torch couldn't cure.
> 
> If it works, it
> could be a great source for big and cheap stainless kettles.  

An old message dated 15 Nov 89 from dsbaer at EBay.Sun.COM (David Baer):

    I suggest looking for Bill Owens book: "How to Build a Small Brewery at
    Home".  He converts a 1/2 keg (15.5 gallons) into a boiler and uses a water
    heater core for the burner.

One thought: you might not be very welcome at the liquor store again.
Perhaps get the keg from a place you don't normally frequent...

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Date: Mon, 2 Jul 90 10:45:55 -0700
From: cckweiss at castor.ucdavis.edu
Subject: Finings


I opened the first of my Ginger Pale Ale last night (bottled about 10
days ago). I suspect it's a good example of a ginger beer, so now I
just have to decide whether or not I like ginger beer. It definitely
wasn't the love at first sip I had with smoked beer.

This was the first time I added gelatin finings to the beer at bottling
time, and I have a few questions for anyone experienced in such matters.
I was impressed by the clarity of the beer. However, I got really
large amounts of sediment, like 1/8 - 1/4 inch instead of the thin layer
I usually see. Is this normal? Also, the gelatin didn't serve to hold
the yeast down at the bottom when pouring - it still swirled around like 
smoke when agitated. Is there anything that will cause the yeast to
stick down there at the bottom of the bottle? Finally, for the first
time I saw what appeared to be yeast adhering to the sides of the bottles.
Could this be a function of the gelatin, or more likely the yeast
(Edme Ale yeast, dry)?

The brief time in the bottle really helped balance out the hops. It's
nowhere near as sharply bitter as when I tasted it while bottling. All
in all it's technically maybe my best brew yet - *very* clear, and the
only off flavor I can detect is the ginger. Might be it really needs
to be sweeter - going for a dry ginger ale was, perhaps, an error. Ah
well, it's still basically beer-like in nature, and therefore good...

Ken Weiss
krweiss at ucdavis.edu
cckweiss at castor.ucdavis.edu

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Date: Mon, 2 Jul 90 18:25:43 MDT
From: Russell Greenlee <russell at uswat.uswest.com>
Subject: AHA results, judging, ramblings, and a topping up question


I just got the results on my entry into the AHA national homebrew
contest this past weekend! First, I want to say that I have only
been brewing since last November, but my "Elevator Doppelbock" made it
into the second round. I think that much of my success can be
attributed to the wealth of good info to be found on this list. Thanks all!

Second, re: how subjective is beer judging. My scoresheet for the
first round was very favorable, 43 out of 50. The scoresheets for the
second round were much less favorable, ave. 23 out of 50. The four
second round judges felt that Elevator was brewed out of style.
Obviously the first round judge has a different idea about what
constitutes a doppelbock. Before anyone starts to dump on the first
round judge I should mention that it was Charlie Papazian! I
personally don't care one way or the other. I am pleased to get a good
review from CP, and I got good ideas on how to improve the recipe from
the other judges. Definately a worth while experience. I encourage
everyone to enter next year.

Third, I just want to report that I have been using my dishwasher to
sanitize my bottles for the last 4 or 5 batches. It works great and
saves time. I have also been dry hopping and using steamed oak chips
in my IPAs without incident (knock on wood). I now use yeast starters
from liquid yeast cultures, which gets things going very quickly.

Fourth, re: keeping fermentations cool. I like the wet T shirt idea
posted here recently. I kept the fermenation temperature down in the
low 40s (F) for my Elevator doppelbock by putting the carboy in a
water bath (I used a 7g plastic bucket) and keeping the whole thing in
my garage (this was late winter). Then I would add ice or hot water to
the bath on a daily basis to keep the temp in the desired range. Not
the most elegant proceedure, but cheaper than a fridge!

Finally, a question about topping up the secondary. I have never
topped up the secondary because I assumed that the blowoff would have
the same gravity as the rest of the beer so adding water would
unnecessarily attenuate the final brew. After reading Noonan's book
and this digest I am having second thoughts. I have always had
unpredictable but consistently high final gravities even though I use
the most attenuative yeasts I can find. It occurs to me that perhaps
the blowoff from the primary fermentation has a lower gravity than the
beer that is left behind, which would effectively concentrate the
sugars in beer, raising its gravity. Or could there be enough
evaporative loss through the blowoff tube/airlock to have the same
effect? Does anyone have any thoughts or experience along these lines?
I haven't done any tests such as actually comparing blowoff and beer
gravities.

Thanks again for all the good reading. I'll send my Elevator
doppelbock recipe in a later posting. This one is too long already.

Russell Greenlee
russell at uswest.com

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Date: Mon, 2 Jul 90 21:54:02 cst
From: "Gerth,Mark" <GERTHM%GRIN1.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject: Regrets

Dear Fellow homebrewers,

  I will be leaving Grinnell Iowa for Boston tomorrow and so will no longer
be at this address.  I have enjoyed all of the discussion and advice you've
all shared.  With any luck I'll be able to resubscribe in the near future.
In the mean time I will be checking in on the Wort Processors when I get to
Boston.  It looks as though that in itself will be worth the move.
  Again, thank you for all of your postings.

Mark Gerth
Heartland Homebrew Club (AKA Grin City Hopheads)

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Date: Mon, 2 Jul 90 14:00:19 EDT
From: harley!chuck at uunet.UU.NET (Chuck Cox)
Subject: Re: Auto Mash

I believe I saw the device you are referring to at the National Conference.
My impression of it is that it is essentially useless.

You can't sparge in it, as a matter of fact you can only mash, period.
The 'computer' controller is large and ungainly, has a cheap lcd display
that is hard to read, and doesn't appear to be splash-proof.
As for time delayed mashing, I am not convinced that letting grains
just sit around in water for a few hours is going to do your beer any good.

Every year, there seems to be some booth displaying some over-priced
over-engineered piece of gratuitous technology that no one wants.
You never see them again.  I don't think they understand the concept
of market research.

 - Chuck Cox - SynchroSystems - Hopped/Up Racing Team - uunet!bose!chuck

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Date: Mon, 2 Jul 90 14:19:34 EDT
From: harley!chuck at uunet.UU.NET (Chuck Cox)
Subject: Re: A possible cheap brew kettle?

Yes, Bud kegs are very popular for converting into 15 gal homebreweries.
Plans for various systems abound in the popular liturature.
While most (if not all) kegs are stainless, the advantage of the Bud
kegs is their relatively flat bottom, and support ring around the top
and bottom.

A friend of a friend who does stainless steel fabrication recommends
using a grinder/cutter to surgically alter the kegs.  If you befriend
a bar owner, you can get empty kegs for the deposit price
($10 in the Boston area), thus saving you from actually having to 
drink the industrial effluent quasi-beer.

I have 3 15gal Bud kegs in my kitchen just waiting for me to rent some
impressive power tools and turn them into a mash tun, brew kettle, 
and fermenter.

Opinion: The replacement cost of the kegs has got to be more than $10,
so don't take kegs from real breweries, just from beer factories,
who owe you at least that much for putting up with their advertising.

 - Chuck Cox - SynchroSystems - Hopped/Up Racing Team - uunet!bose!chuck -

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #452, 07/03/90
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