HOMEBREW Digest #4593 Mon 30 August 2004

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


                  Beer, Beer, and More Beer
      Visit http://morebeer.com to show your appreciation!

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Mashing with Steam (SIMM) (Gary Spykman)
  re: bromelain use ("-S")
  This Is The Doctor Calling ("Phil Yates")
  link of the week - 2004 hops (Bob Devine)
  Thanks for the Syracuse tips! (elal)
  Vancouver Brew Pubs ("Dave Burley")
  Carbon Filter sanitation ("Dave Burley")
  RE: shank to tower conversion ("Ronald La Borde")
  Re: Efficiency & Amylase Enzyme followup ("Richard S Sloan")
  Five Minute Mash ("Dave Larsen")
  Bugs in Steve's Bourbon Barrel ("Janie Curry")

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Suppport this service: http://hbd.org/donate.shtml * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning, and Spencer Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 23:11:42 -0400 From: Gary Spykman <mail at gjwspykman.com> Subject: Mashing with Steam (SIMM) Since my post last week (HBD #4586) I have had several people email me asking for more information about my SIMM (Steam Injected Mash Mixer). If you missed it, I was responding to a question about using steam as the heat source for mashing. Specifically, injecting steam directly into the wort. Well, this is something I've been doing for a few years now. The advantages to steam-injection over other methods are very straight forward. There is no chance of scorching the mash as there is with either direct bottom firing or a RIMS system using an electric heating element. A HERMS system is safe from scorching, but is very slow at raising the temperature in step mashing. Direct steam injection can ramp up temperatures incredibly fast, or if adjusted carefully can be used to simply maintain the mash temperature without the need for an insulated mash tun. Another problem with almost any system or method is the difficulty maintaining consistent temperature throughout the mash. Stirring the mash while applying the heat is an obvious cure for that. The idea of automating the stirring by using a "mash mixer" is something that has been discussed here on the HBD several times. With my Steam Injected Mash Mixer, what I have done is design and build a device which addresses all these difficulties at once: It heats the mash as quickly or as slowly as desired with no chance of scorching and ensures a consistent mash temperature throughout. So let me describe my SIMM. There is a gear-motor on top, mounted to an aluminum disc which serves as a cover for the mash tun. A mash mixing paddle attaches to the motor shaft below the disc. Passing through the disc are four sections of 1/2" copper pipe. These connect together making a kind of cage which supports the mixer paddle at the bottom. These four copper pipes each have a row of tiny holes drilled in them. Above the disc, the four sections of copper pipe connect together to form a single inlet controlled by a valve. The SIMM goes into the mash tun, a steam line connects to the valve, and away you go. As I mentioned in my previous post, the real key to the system is a safe and simple steam delivery device. What I use is a wallpaper steamer (I gave a little more background on this last week). You fill it with water and you plug it in, nothing could be simpler. For safety it has both a pressure relief valve and a temperature "safety fuse". For me this system is "it". Well, enough blathering, what I really wanted to say is that I finally took some pictures and put them up on the web. There are captions with the pictures explaining how it works. The pictures can be found at http://www.gjwspykman.com/simm/simm.html. All comments appreciated. - -- Gary Spykman G.J.W. Spykman, Furniture & Design 47 Victoria Street Keene, New Hampshire 03431 phone: 603.352.5656 fax: 603.352.5455 e-mail: mail at gjwspykman.com web site: www.gjwspykman.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 00:05:24 -0400 From: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: re: bromelain use Arthur Gonzales asks ... > If someone > chooses to use it, how much bromelain should one use > to brew, for example, a thousand liters of beer? Bromelein is a proteolytic enzyme and my recollection is that it is similar to ficinase in that it is successfully cleaves grain beta-amylase from it's bound larger protein and increases it's activity dramatically. There is no reason to use bromelien with malted grists. > What are the circumstances that one should use it? You might consider 'playing' with bromelein as an brewing additive when using large amounts of unmalted grist. I can't recomment it. As for the howto & how much - you can find the temperature range in some of the commercial sources but you'll still have to play with the amounts. A can't recommend this as a useful avenue for brewing but who knows ? -S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 15:14:00 +1000 From: "Phil Yates" <phil.yates at bigpond.com> Subject: This Is The Doctor Calling Late last night the phone rang and a heavily accented voice was warning me to go easy on my HBD posts. Well blow me down, if it wasn't Doc Pivo calling from Sweden. I hadn't heard from him for so long I was wondering if he'd drowned in a vat of Bohemian Pilsner. The Doc was actually after a contact number on Graham Sanders. It seems a couple of his Swedish mates are heading for North Queensland and would like to meet Mr Sanders. So blow me down again, here's Graham with number one post in today's HBD. I have a bad feeling the planets are lining up! I just hope I'm not in the sights, I've got far too much fermentation to experiment with. Last time the Doc was out here to visit me, we drank a month's supply of brew in three days! And it took me the rest of the month to recover. Graham, I'm handing the Swedes over to you! Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 01:22:33 -0600 From: Bob Devine <bob.devine at worldnet.att.net> Subject: link of the week - 2004 hops It is getting close to hop harvest time. So how is the crop doing? You can find the answer to that question and many more hop facts at this website: http://www.john-i-haas.com/agronomy/forecasts.htm Bob Devine Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 08:52:30 -0300 From: elal at isn.net Subject: Thanks for the Syracuse tips! The Galeville Grocery was exactly the thing I was looking for: see my post at http://www.genx40.com/archives/2004/august/galeville. Handy to both the fair and 1-81 for the travelling eastern Ontarian - a great sixpack micro selection. - -- Alan www.genx40.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 11:09:30 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Vancouver Brew Pubs Brewsters: I was once again reminded of Bill Riel's knowledge and hospitality during his response to Marc Sedam's query about Vancouver. A few years ago I visited Vancouver with my wife and was pleased to have such a wonderful host as Bill, his wife and friends. The sidetrip to Vancouver was part of my visit to that part of the country in search of the source of my serious illness. Despite my medical problems, I was supremely well taken care of by Bill and crew and am glad to report that the trip, as a result, was a great success even though the Univ of WA failed to provide any new information. The basic source of my illness was discovered here at Duke Univ in NC and I am pretty much recovered rather than being toes up, as was nearly everyone's expectation. Lesson to be learned by others by my experience is to avoid using Enbrel or any of these other biologicals for Rheumatoid Arthritis as one side effect can be death. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 11:58:34 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Carbon Filter sanitation Brewsters: It is important to keep your water filters clean, esp is you use it for drinking, as once you remove the chlorine you can have bacterial contamination. I have seen some pretty scummy filters in my old house where we had well water. When I bought my reverse osmosis filter in train with a carbon filter, the manual suggested a mild treatment with bleach before first use. Some carbon filters come with a silver treatment to prevent bacterial contamnation. Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 11:39:18 -0500 From: "Ronald La Borde" <pivoron at cox.net> Subject: RE: shank to tower conversion >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: Dean <dean at deanandadie.net> Subject: I have two faucets and shanks that I took off a kegerator bestowed to me. I would like to use the faucets in a home-built tower instead of the shanks and am looking for some guidance. On morebeer.com I see three parts - gooseneck, compression gromet, and brass nut (D1390, D1391, 1392 respectively) - that look like they may be just the ticket. Can I make the conversion with these parts? <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Just try calling Morebeer 1-800-600-0033 and ask them. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Any other tips? <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< I have not tried this, but when I was in Europe, I noticed some really fancy ceramic towers. The thought came to me that one might be able to make one out of a table lamp. Has anyone tried this? It seems like one could drill a hole (harder than it sounds perhaps) through the side and mount your tap/s. On the top, you could mount some kind of ornament. Ron ===== Ronald J. La Borde -- Metairie, LA New Orleans is the suburb of Metairie, LA www.hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:24:33 -0700 From: "Richard S Sloan" <rssloan at household.com> Subject: Re: Efficiency & Amylase Enzyme followup Last week I posted how I saw a jump to 79% efficiency from my average of 65% the first time I added a teaspoon of Amylase Enzyme to my mash. I was concerned that the enzymes would have broken down the sugars too much causing greater attenuation and an unbalanced beer. I kegged last night with a FG of 1.012, down from the OG of 1.043 and it tastes great. I pitched the batch on top of a previous batches yeast cake (WLP028 Edinburgh Ale) so it had full opportunity to eat most of the sugars the wort had to offer. I brewed an ordinary bitter on Saturday with approx 1/2 teaspoon of the enzyme and got 71% efficiency. I went with less enzymes this time since it was only 6 lbs of grain, and I hadn't racked the previous batch yet to know how it finished. To be able to keep the simplicity of single infusion mashes and batch sparging, the $1.95 I spent on the bottle of enzymes (Crosby & Baker - 1.5oz bottle, good for several batches) is quite a bargain. Richard Sloan Enjoying the brewing experiments in San Diego, CA next up... a BIG Barleywine stlye ale with Rye Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 18:18:37 +0000 From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpumonkey at hotmail.com> Subject: Five Minute Mash I'm chiming in a bit late on the short mash time thread. Sorry. I was talking to the brew master of a local brew pub about his process a few months ago, and he told me that his mash time was typically around five minutes. I could not believe it, and asked him about his efficiency. He responded by saying that it was about 68%. Upon questioning him further, he told me that he does not do a mashout, and maintains his saccharification temp throughout his sparge. So, to say that he has a five minute mash time is not fair, really, as much of his conversion happens during the sparge. I have never tried this at home, since my sparge temps tend to be all over the place. I did find it all pretty interesting, though. Dave Tucson, AZ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 22:16:46 +0000 From: "Janie Curry" <houndandcalico at hotmail.com> Subject: Bugs in Steve's Bourbon Barrel Steve asks about bugs in his bourbon barrels. I forwarded his question on to my friend Craig, an Air Force entomologis....here is his diagnosis and fix. Sounds likes powder post beetles to me. If it is a new infestation you might not see any bore holes as they are the result of the adults emerging. If the sawdust is coming from the joints it could be a result of the larvae boring past the joint and the positive pressure of the barrel "blowing" some of the sawdust (actually beetle larvae feces) out the joint. Usually powder post beetles are treated with a pesticide containing borates (like for treated lumber). This penetrates the wood and kills the living insects and will also protect the wood from future infestation. I would NOT treat an oak cask with beer in it. Finishing the cask with shellac or some other product would help prevent any future infestation. It probably won't suffocate the existing larvae. There is enough air space is the wood for them to survive. The adults will emerge through the finish and the holes will provide new oviposition locations for the next generation. So in reality the finish will have to be reapplied to cover the new holes. Probably not a good option for 100% control although it could control the majority of the population. I can't really say what the effects of shellacking the cask will do to it and the contents. Since casks are close to being airtight it probably won't hurt, but I am not the expert on this. Not sure how easy this would be to do, but after the cask is empty taking it to a large walk in freezer for a few days will probably kill the infestation. A reefer won't kill them off, it would have to be a freezer. This method will work best if the average temp of the cask has been 70+ degrees for a while. If the cask has been in a cellar at 50 or so then the method won't be as effective as the insects will already be somewhat adapted to the colder climate. More of them will survive. Insects can survive the cold if allowed to adapt to it. Taking them from 70-80 down to 0 to -10 in an hour will shock their systems and kill them. It is possible that newly laid eggs won't be killed. Hope this helps. I would be happy to accept barley wine donations for my consultation fees. :>) Craig Todd in Idaho Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 08/30/04, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96