HOMEBREW Digest #4597 Fri 03 September 2004

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


                  Beer, Beer, and More Beer
      Visit http://morebeer.com to show your appreciation!

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  RE: Jeff Renner's Grape v. Corn Sugar / Alcohol Increase Reply (HBD 4596) ("Charles Boyer")
  Fructose is NOT converted to Glucose ("-S")
  keg glueing update ("Alan McKay")
  Stalled Dunkelweizen - Help Please! ("Rowan and Jenny Williams")
  How to succed in microland / bunsiness ("Dan Listermann")
  RE: Jeff Renner's Grape v. Corn Sugar / Alcohol Increase Reply (Jeff Renner)
  Re: When to plant hops / Homebrewers in vic Heidelberg, Germany ("Scott D. Braker-Abene")
  'Free and Open Source' Brewing Stand Blueprints - comments please (cboyer)
  keg spear removal (Tom Davidson)
  Bone, Heartburn, & Diabetes Pills, No one needs to know... ("Eugene")

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Suppport this service: http://hbd.org/donate.shtml * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning, and Spencer Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 23:07:59 -0400 From: "Charles Boyer" <cboyer at ausoleil.org> Subject: RE: Jeff Renner's Grape v. Corn Sugar / Alcohol Increase Reply (HBD 4596) Jeff, Using Promash, I entered in some numbers using a 5.0 gallon version of the default Company 1 Red Ale recipe that comes with the product. Reason I chose this recipe is because it is readily available for users a widely used and trusted brewing program that's generally agreed to be pretty accurate in it's brewing calculations. To the recipe, all I did was lock the batch size and decrease the recipe from 6.0 to 5.0 gallons. Promash dutifully decreased the grain amounts while keeping the points the same. Since it is a theoretical recipe for the purposes of the calculations, all of the other considerations were left as-is. Anyway: Promash says if one achieves a nomimal brew that they should see 51 gravity points. Using Wyeast American Ale/Chico yeast, a typical yeast for a red ale, Specifically, Promash further reports that: Default recipe 51 points 4.1% Alcohol by weight 5.24% Alcohol By Volume In a perfect world. Now, to test your numbers, I went back to the base recipe used above and added 3.77 ounces of corn sugar (1 ounce = 28.4 grams, 3.77*28.4=107.1 grams) from the PM ingredient list. Yes, I know that we are talking about a bottling operation, but bear with me for the sake of experimentation. Default Recipe + 107 grams corn sugar 53 points 4.24% ABW 5.42% ABV So, your point regarding the increase in alcohol is true and well made, but at the same time, there is a difference in the ProMash calculation of the increase in comparison to yours, specifically, not that much of an increase in alcohol percentage -- there, yes, but not at the scale you report. Is this a flawed methodology on my part? Cheers, Charles Boyer http://www.homebrewhelp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 03:41:48 -0400 From: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: Fructose is NOT converted to Glucose Chas Boyer quotes BYO as ... >More information about invert sugar, per BYO: > >"Invert sugar consists of equal parts glucose and fructose. When fructose >is transported into the yeast, it's converted to glucose and enters the >glycolytic pathway ..." Once again BYO gets the story Bass-Ackwards. Glucose in fermentation is converted to Glucose-6-phosphate then to fructose-6-phosphate then fructose 1,6-biphosphate which is the entry point to the glycolytic pathway. Fructose is converted to Fructose-1-phosphate then then fructose 1,6-phosphate where it enters the pathway. It's closer to the truth to say that glucose is always rearranged into fructose and certainly not the other way around. Yeast have a lower affinity to fructose and so unfermented fructose is left behind at much greater rates in beer. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 07:49:13 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at neap.net> Subject: keg glueing update Folks, An update to my keg glueing. I ended up using PL Premium construction adhesive (which IIRC is polyurethane) and so far so good - the bond seems to be extremely good. Obviously only time will tell, but it sure is looking good so far. I applied the adhesive, fitted the rubber back on top, and then flipped the keg over since it was full of malt-drink (not beer) so that the weight of the keg would hold it in place while curing. cheers, -Alan - -- http://www.bodensatz.com/ The Beer Site Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 22:21:12 +1000 From: "Rowan and Jenny Williams" <rowjen at webone.com.au> Subject: Stalled Dunkelweizen - Help Please! Firstly, let me admit that I have cross-posted this to rec.crafts.brewing so apologies to anyone who has already read this post... 2 Weeks ago I put a 24 Litre 1.055 SG Part Mash Dunkelweizen into primary fermentation, using DCL K-97 re-hydrated yeast. All was going well until the last couple of days (days 12 and 13) when the gravity crept from 1.024 to currently 1.022. I fear that I may have a stalled wort and the yeast has given up the ghost. I was hoping to be a lot closer to about 1.014 or thereabouts. I skimmed on day 3 or 4 in primary (can't quite remember) and removed a lot of cold break and krausen - which returned minus the cold break "skin" the following morning to my relief. That krausen has since fallen back into the wort and I now have a cake of about half to three quarters of an inch in the bottom of the fermenter pail. What should I do - relax and keep an eye on the gravity and rack if it doesn't change after a couple of days, as I normally do? I have never used K-97 yeast before - has it run its race? Should I rouse the beer and risk disturbing the cake that has taken nearly two weeks to form in the primary fermenter? Put on the heating pad and push the wort temp up from 18C (64.4F) to 24C (75.2F) and hope it gets a bit more fermentation out of the suspended yeast? I've never brewed a Dunkelweizen before and any comments from those who have brewed this sort of beer or used DCL K-97 before would be gratefully accepted. The gravity sample looks, smells and tastes very nice but a few lower degrees would be better - or is it??? Ingredients were: 1.7Kg Wheat extract, 1kg Pale Malt Extract, 1Kg Munich Malt, 200g Caramunich, 200g Amber, 100g Pale Choc Malt with a single hop addition of 1oz of 5% A/A Hallertau for the 60min boil. Your thoughts? - -- Cheers, Rowan Williams Canberra Brewers Club Australia [9588.6, 261.5] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 09:00:36 -0400 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: How to succed in microland / bunsiness I am plotting a little different approach to microbrewing. I own a homebrew shop and manufacturing facility. My overhead is fairly well covered. I am hoping to brew and bottle condition beer to sell to my shop's customers. I feel that the stream of customers we have now would be very interested in beers we brew and would not mind bottle conditioned beer. Bottle conditioning can be done with far less equipment when compared to counterpressured beer. If the above works out, I will spring for the extra $4000 to sell it by the glass and then develop the front room into a brewpub. Our shop is only two blocks from Cincinnati's Xavier University. I don't care to sell any more food than legally necessary or practical without hiring cooks, etc. It could work. Dan Listermann Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 10:19:23 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: RE: Jeff Renner's Grape v. Corn Sugar / Alcohol Increase Reply Charles Boyer wrote (above): >So, your point regarding the increase in alcohol is true and well made, but >at the same time, there is a difference in the ProMash calculation of the >increase in comparison to yours, specifically, not that much of an increase >in alcohol percentage -- there, yes, but not at the scale you report. Yes - you show half the increase in alcohol as I did. Nice job of using ProMash to investigate this. >Is this a flawed methodology on my part? No, I don't see anything wrong, nor can I see anything wrong with my numbers. Of course, ProMash is a black box. Can anyone else see the reason for this discrepancy? If not, we can ask Jeff Donovan of ProMash. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 07:33:56 -0700 (PDT) From: "Scott D. Braker-Abene" <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: When to plant hops / Homebrewers in vic Heidelberg, Germany Marty Writes: "Should I plant the hops now or let them hibernate in the pots during the winter and plant them next spring?" Personally I would throw them in the ground now before your wet, windy and rainy fall starts. Maybe do a cutting and leave some of the rhizome in the pot over the winter. My neighbor cuts and plants new rhizomes from the pots on his porch. He has been doing this for several years with great success. He then runs a string from the potted bines to his porch roof. It looks great in the summer. The cuttings that he moves into the earth in his back field are starting to really take off in the different areas. I think that you should talk to the people that run the castle and see if you can plant hop bines around it. Marty also writes: "Also, are there any homebrewers in the Heidelberg, Germany region?" I get to Heidleberg several times a year as I work for SAP. I know that there are several SAP employees that are in your area that brew. I will see if I can pass on some names to you. I also have to note that you are one lucky S.O.B. living so close to the KULTURBRAUREI! They make about the best Dunkels that I have ever had anywhere in Germany. C'ya! -Scott ===== "Dad... Parents can't have fun..." - Heather Braker http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat - Skotrats Beer Page http://www.brewrats.org - BrewRats HomeBrew Club Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 12:11:04 -0400 (EDT) From: cboyer at ausoleil.org Subject: 'Free and Open Source' Brewing Stand Blueprints - comments please Hello fellow HBDers -- As part of my efforts at 'give-back' to the home brewing community,which for the past twenty years has not only given me immeasurable help but also life-long friendships, I have converted some of the original plans for my second brewstand into 'blueprint' level files and put them up on my little web-site for all to use freely as they wish. I call this a 'free and open source' plan set, because the idea is to emulate what is going on in the world of software, where there is a great deal of idea sharing and collaboration and thus everyone as a whole benefits. Best of all, no charge. I've seen plans for sale from some vendors, and I guess that this is fine, but on the other hand, it would be nice too if there were some created at a professional level that were free. The best decisions are made from the most information. This system is a half-barrel keg system that has a "two and one" alignment, where the mash tun is directly above the hot liquor tank, and the boil kettle is beside the hot liquor tank. This is a fairly common configuration. As for the plans themselves, there are 3-D pictographs, as well as PDF files that take each part down to the cut sizes, etc. so that if one was interested in building the device, they could actually print everything off and take it to a metal fabricator or if they had the skill and equipment, build it themselves. If I may ask, and if you are interested, I would appreciate getting some feedback on how they might be improved, based upon your experiences or observations. If you're game, a link to them is on the web site below my signature [you can't post these things to the Digest! :-) ] Cheers to all, Charles Boyer http://www.homebrewhelp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 13:00:30 -0400 From: Tom Davidson <tj.davidson at comcast.net> Subject: keg spear removal I am well acquainted with the removal of the spear in most sankey kegs but I have a couple of freshly donated kegs that are different and I'm at a loss. The brewery gave them to me because they don't know how either. Keg #1 is a sankey type valve but it screws in rather than just slide in. I have unscrewed it where it is nice and loose. I can raise it up about a half inch but it will not come out. I thought maybe it had a second set of threads down low but I don't seem able to engage them if they exist. I was pretty sure I've removed screw in valves before without this problem but apparently not. Keg #2 is a Bass\Tennents keg and it has a completely different valve. It is triangular with rounded corners rather than circular. There is no retaining ring. Rather than a ball in the center there is a flat stainless piece surrounded by a 1/8" wide gasket. It cannot be depressed like the ball in a sankey. Manufactured in Germany by Thielmann. Any guidance is appreciated. TIA, Tom Davidson Baltimore, Maryland, USA, Earth Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 02:47:45 GMT From: "Eugene" <ricky21percy at hotmail.com> Subject: Bone, Heartburn, & Diabetes Pills, No one needs to know... Save up to 80% on popular meds! *** GREAT SPECIALS *** Check it out: http://www.medsdadc.biz/?92 - No doctor visits or hassles - Quick delivery to your front door Visit us here: http://www.medsdadc.biz/?92 On medication long term? Buy bulk through us and LITERALLY SAVE THOUSANDS! concept lorrainedepeche october septembe angels valhallavalhalla paula jordan23 nesbitt pedro pookie1 fool impala passion angus cuddlesmookie justin1 minou catfish rambo1 dead petunia shelleyjared honda1 dan pisces aliensgenius easter grandma bridges gary gordon Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 09/04/04, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96