HOMEBREW Digest #4600 Tue 07 September 2004


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Contents:
  Two Thirsty Brutes In Townsville ("Phil Yates")
  That British Caramel Taste (Braam Greyling)
  'Swamp-Cooled' Ale Brewing (cboyer)
  British "Caramel" Taste... ("Cave, Jim")
  ATC Refractometer from Northern Brewer ("Rob Dewhirst")
  Tuff-Tank from EC Krause ("Rob Dewhirst")
  Re Jeff Renner's priming method (Bill Velek)
  WLP 802 -- The Movie (Michael Owings)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 14:59:09 +1000 From: "Phil Yates" <phil.yates at bigpond.com> Subject: Two Thirsty Brutes In Townsville Graham Sanders says: >And does he come back quietly, oh no!!!!!, he comes back with what >could be only described as a craftbrewers perfect fantasy. We all know >how morally relaxed those Swedes are, and yes a nice blond around the >house would certainly make life bearable, but Phil promised the ultimate >pleasure. Graham, please be advised: The two Swedes on their way to drink your brew are male and built like polar bears. They have an enormous appetite for home brewed beer! Their two gorgeous slinky blonde girlfriends will be staying with me to assist in the demolition of my Super Dooper Ice Boch. Jill is on holidays. Now why is it these blonde Swedes love wandering about the house naked? I hope their boyfriends keep their clothes on for you Graham. They could cause SWMBO to lose it all together!!! Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 08:19:53 +0200 From: Braam Greyling <braam.greyling at azoteq.com> Subject: That British Caramel Taste Fred, Regarding your caramel taste. You might want a bit more diacetyl in your beer. Use a yeast strain that provide a bit more diacetyl. Also add some more caramel malt like to your grain bill. Regards Braam Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 09:07:13 -0400 (EDT) From: cboyer at ausoleil.org Subject: 'Swamp-Cooled' Ale Brewing Hello fellow HBDer's: I brewed an ale this weekend that I've tentatively called "Ale-Be-Bock" (with apologies to the Arnold Schwarzenegger) where the intent was to make a bock-like ale with minimal esters. To accomplish this, I brewed with a bock-style grain and hop bill, but instead of using a lager yeast, instead I used Wyeast 1007 German Ale, which has very little flavor contribution and good flocculation, etc., for clarity. Also, to further prevent the production of esters, I am swamp cooling this new brew: I covered the carboy in an old t-shirt and sat it in a tub of water so that the water would wick up, and have a fan blowing air over the whole rig. As expected, it has dropped the temperature of the carboy four or five degrees Farenheit and is now running at about 63 dF. Questions: 1) when one uses a method such as this, should fermentation be allowed to start at room temperature? This would seem to kick things off faster (I used a 1 quart starter) as the cooled brew had a longer lag time, eight versus the normal four or five before fermentation was visible. 2) Even though the beer will only be somewhat below ambient, should I employ a diacetyl rest, a la lagering, prior to bottling the beer? Thanks to all for your sage advice. As always, good brewing! Cheers, Charles Boyer http://www.homebrewhelp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 07:18:57 -0700 From: "Cave, Jim" <Cave at psc.org> Subject: British "Caramel" Taste... Fred Johnstone is trying to replicate a caramel flavour in British beers. For years I tried to get that "European" lager taste in my lagers. It turns out the flavour I was trying to replicate was "skunkiness" due to mercaptans produced when a green bottled beer is changed because of flourescent light. If your familiarity of English beers is from imported bottled products, and you are trying to replicate a flavour, that flavour might be due to aged bottled product. I find some of these to have a caramel flavour that I don't detect in the fresher bitters on cask in the UK. Also, some of these brewers add caramel, instead of using crystal malt. That said, you may want to look at your malt bill: You should be trying to use best quality English pale malt. I would suggest Maris Otter. This adds a really distinctive roundness and toastiness. Standard water treatment for pale ales is also important. Jim Cave Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 09:34:02 -0500 From: "Rob Dewhirst" <rob at hairydogbrewery.com> Subject: ATC Refractometer from Northern Brewer I have the relatively inexpensive refractometer sold by Northern Brewer. I am getting consistently LOW brix readings with both wort and grape juice. Samples reading 22-24 brix with friends refractometers read 17-18 with mine. I calibrate the device before each "session" with distilled water. I let the sample and refractometer sit for at least a minute so they are the same temperature. I look at the sample in good outdoor sunlight. I have no bubbles on the sample glass. I still get low readings. Has anyone else experienced this with this model? I made a quick look and could not identify a manufacturer. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 10:38:02 -0500 From: "Rob Dewhirst" <rob at hairydogbrewery.com> Subject: Tuff-Tank from EC Krause Over the weekend a friend showed me his 22 gallon Tuff-Tank from EC Krause. I was very impressed with how light and durable it was, and the price seems quite reasonable. I am concerned about oxygen permeability of the plastic, and the amount of light they seem to let through. Has anyone used one of these long enough to age beer in them or dry hop in them (for which they would be ideal with the large opening)? <http://www.eckraus.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TT220&variation=&aitem=3&mitem=7> <http://snipurl.com/8wpx> (PS, if you research this product you will find a thread on rec.crafts.brewing about this and a claim that these can be purchased through US Plastics. The product sold through US Plastics is not the same. It has a rubber seal. The Tuff-Tank does not have any separate seal or gasket.) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 10:45:12 -0500 From: Bill Velek <billvelek at alltel.net> Subject: Re Jeff Renner's priming method In HBD No. 4599, in reply to a comment by Glynn Crossno that he dissolves 3.77 ounces of priming sugar in a quart of water, Jeff Renner then commented that: "... that's way more water than I use, and often I use beer because I don't like to dilute the beer." Jeff, do you boil your priming sugar in the beer, or just add it at room temp and stir until it dissolves before putting it in the bottling bucket? Also, what proportion of beer to sugar do you use for what size batch? Thanks. Bill Velek Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 13:06:55 -0500 From: Michael Owings <mikey at swampgas.com> Subject: WLP 802 -- The Movie (Posted already to the rec.crafts.brewing newsgroup) I've got a new microscope video camera AND I'M NOT AFRAID TO USE IT! I've posted a couple of MPEGS of WLP 802 yeast taken under oil immersion w/ a 100x objective. The effective magnification is actually quite high, (well over 1000x) since the camera (which replaces the eyepiece) has a fairly narrow FOV. There are both hi-res (640x480) and low-res (320x240) clips. Each is around 8 meg. Because the depth of field is quite shallow at this magnification, I play with the focus quite a bit so you can get a more complete view of the cells. Also, bear in mind these cells aren't in a single plane; they're in suspension in a bit of wort, so some are on top of others, and will come in and out of focus as the focus changes depth. The yeast have just completed fermenting out a 1.074 maibock wort. (Click the camera icons to view) http://www.swampgas.com/microscopy/yeast/index.html - -- Teleoperate a roving mobile robot from the web: http://www.swampgas.com/robotics/rover.html Return to table of contents
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