HOMEBREW Digest #4663 Wed 01 December 2004

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  Re: Heritage ("Scott D. Braker-Abene")
  Re: where to put the pump (Mike_Andrews)
  Vanilla bean vs. vanilla extract; which is better? (Bill Velek)
  Brewing Heritage (gornicwm)
  Homebrewing backgrounds/additional enzymes (Michael)
  Five Star 5.2 pH Stabilizer? (Ed Jones)
  Re: pH meter accuracy et al. ("Gary Smith")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 20:43:22 -0800 (PST) From: "Scott D. Braker-Abene" <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Heritage Hey now, Pretty much GERMAN and SWISS... Third generation German American... Prolly Fourth Generation Swiss American... A little Cheyenne in there for good measure... All beer is good beer... C'ya! -Scott ===== "I can't help it... I love being a fart machine" - Heather Braker http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat - Skotrats Beer Page http://www.brewrats.org - BrewRats HomeBrew Club Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 08:19:32 -0500 From: Mike_Andrews at vfc.com Subject: Re: where to put the pump Steve, push the wort through the cfc, and any other equipment in the wort path. You want to keep the friction head on the outlet side of the pump, not the inlet (see previous posts on cavitation and net positive suction head). This will also give you the ability to push any stray hops through the cfc. Whirlpooling with a pump works well, I have been using this method for a few years now. I don't understand why you want to gravity feed to the fermentor if you have a pump? Regulate the flow to the fermentor with a ball valve on the pump outlet. Mike Andrews Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 2004 09:11:47 -0600 From: Bill Velek <billvelek at alltel.net> Subject: Vanilla bean vs. vanilla extract; which is better? I have noticed several posts in various beer forums regarding the use of vanilla, such as Alan Folsom's post in HBD#4662. Some of the posts have recommended using vanilla extract, and some vanilla bean, but I can't really recall a comparison of the two, but I might have just missed it. I have read comments that _real_ vanilla extract is better than the _artificial_ vanilla flavoring, which makes sense. But since authentic vanilla extract obviously comes from vanilla beans, it would seem to me to perhaps be 'six of one or half dozen of the other' (doesn't matter). But I can think of possible reasons why it _might_ matter, and thought I'd just toss this out for consideration and see what you folks think. Essentially my thoughts are along the lines that the commercial process of preparing vanilla extract is almost certainly quite different from the manner in which we would use whole vanilla beans while making beer. I don't know if it is done chemically (soaked in solvents), thermally (perhaps with steam), mechanically (ground or pressed), or a combination thereof. If chemical means is used, the pH isn't necessarily the same, and numerous other chemical compounds in wort/beer are no doubt lacking in the commercial extraction process. I also presume that it's probably done as quickly as possible, which could (and probably is) much shorter a time period than our primary and/or secondary fermentations. And it just makes sense to me that the whole bean obviously consists of much more than what extract contains. Bottom line: does anyone know if there is a difference in the quality of beer made with vanilla extract vs. beans? And if there is no difference, what is the equivalency of one to the other, for purposes of making conversions when a recipe calls for one and you have the other. Cheers. Bill Velek Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:19:56 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: gornicwm at earthlink.net Subject: Brewing Heritage The "brewing roots" question is interesting, but one common theme rings true: Most of us live in the USA. Freedom of expression. Freedom to brew. Freedom of choice. Is homebrewing this fervent in other countries? I feel that there is something VERY American about stickin' it to mega brewed beer and saying, "No!!! I like my beer like this"!!! Dare I say, "Patriotic". I could understand the "German argument" if most of the brewers are 1st generation Americans. Then , I could see immigrants not liking the American offerings and surrender to brewing their own brew. Fact of the matter is that most of our ancestry have been in the U.S. for sometime - Several Generations. Your roots are elsewhere, BE PROUD, but YOU ARE "American". I feel that brewing is based more on creativity, imagination, rebelliousness, and spare time. Not to mention the love of fermented malts and hops. The flavors of beer cross all racial, ethnic, and religious borders. The Middle East would be a far kinder place if introduced to good homebrew. They're angry because they have no beer. :-) BTW: My roots are Polish/Romanian and Italian God Bless America!!! Bill Gornicki CRAFT Homebrew Club Michigan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:57:28 -0600 From: Michael <grice at berbee.com> Subject: Homebrewing backgrounds/additional enzymes First, I'm German/Irish. Unfortunately, I have a fondness for English/American pale ales and Belgian brews. Second, I'm curious as to how many homebrewers have a background in the physical sciences, particularly chemistry. As an ex-chemist, it seemed entirely natural to give this particular hobby a try. Finally, anyone out there have any guidelines for supplementing or replacing the enzymes in malt? I finally bought a copy of Old British Beers and I am intrigued by some of the recipes with enzyme-poor grists. Additionally, I am interested in adjunct-only mashes. I've seen "amylase enzyme" for sale, but I haven't found any detailed information on using the stuff. Michael Middleton, WI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 12:39:27 -0800 (PST) From: Ed Jones <cuisinartoh at yahoo.com> Subject: Five Star 5.2 pH Stabilizer? In the recent Grape and Granary mailing, they have listed a new product called Five Star 5.2 pH Stabilizer. I went to the Five Star Chemicals website and I could find no mention of this product. The description in the flier says: "Five Star 5.2 pH Stabilizer. A proprietary blend of food-grade phosphate buffers that locks in your mash and kettle water at a pH of 5.2, regardless of the starting pH. It also reduces scaling and mineral deposits on brewing equipment. 1 pound. Use at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water." Any thoughts on how useful this would be, especially for those of us with 'good' water, but have no idea of the actual water composition. Thanks, Ed ===== Ed Jones - Columbus, Ohio U.S.A - [163.8, 159.4] [B, D] Rennerian "When I was sufficiently recovered to be permitted to take nourishment, I felt the most extraordinary desire for a glass of Guinness...I am confident that it contributed more than anything else to my recovery." - written by a wounded officer after Battle of Waterloo, 1815 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 2004 19:33:55 -0600 From: "Gary Smith" <Gary at doctorgary.net> Subject: Re: pH meter accuracy et al. Hi all, I've waited awhile to let the direct and on list answers to my question regarding pH meter accuracy dwindle to nada. I'd like to thank everyone who took the time and interest to answer and express their views, you all helped me decide. As I have several interests in brewing ranging pretty much the full gamut from beer to cider to meads with varying pH requirements for each, I have decided to get a pH meter to help keep my endeavors on track. It appears the really cheap ones would be fine but have a really short life expectancy. At my age I try to buy things that will probably outlast me. Experiencing operational failures in my possessions simply reminds me of my own mortality. Besides, I like things that are simpler so a high maintenance meter is out of the question. (If I have to live in a world of pollutants I might as well have some of the benefits of the technology that made those pollutants in the first place). So I have decided on getting an ISFET pocket meter which is of small size, is accurate, takes really small samples to work with, stores with a dry probe which can be cleaned with a toothbrush and will work probably for many years with that same probe and will me much less $ and hours of attention in the end (In other words I'm a couch potato who brews beer). It's a Shindengen pH Pro KS701 It cost me all of $50 on Ebay & supposedly only used twice... No, no bridge came with it, London or otherwise... Thanks so much to all who replied. Cheers, Gary Return to table of contents
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