HOMEBREW Digest #4662 Tue 30 November 2004

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  German-American Brewers. ("Dan Listermann")
  German Heritage ("Tom Clark")
  Re: corny fermenting ("Michael O'Donnell")
  German-American Homebrewers? ("Peter A. Ensminger")
  Re: Vanilla bean - source? ("Alan Folsom")
  Uses for Temperature Correction Factor ("val.dan.morey@juno.com")
  Pump/recirc. with a CFC? ("Strom C. Thacker")
  B.Sc yeast project (Alon Philosof)
  where to put the pump ("steve lane")
  Fermenting in a corny keg ("Ronald La Borde")
  Brewing and Heritage ("John Oconnell")
  RE:Vanilla bean - source? ("Troy A. Wilson")
  RE: fermenting in a corny ("Rick Gordon")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 22:48:20 -0500 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: German-American Brewers. Fifth generation German-American, But I am an English ale freak. Dan Listermann Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 22:52:40 -0500 From: "Tom Clark" <rtclark555 at charter.net> Subject: German Heritage It would be hard to discern where most of our home brew enthusiasts have their roots. However, is there any question as to where the best brewer's families originated? Tom Clark - West Virginia (Scotland, Ireland, Wales, England and Germany) P.S. My Scottish side says you're supposed to distill it first, then age it for several years. My German part says to carefully ferment it is a cave at about 35 degrees, then carefully age it least a month or so. My Welsh part seems to think "Lets have a pint as soon as we get home from the coal mine". My Irish background says "Let's drink it now and we'll gladly fight anyone who gets in the way". Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 20:43:46 -0800 From: "Michael O'Donnell" <mooseo at stanford.edu> Subject: Re: corny fermenting At 08:14 PM 11/29/2004, you wrote: >I'm contemplating using a corny for a fermenter. Does anyone >have any experience and/or reasons not to do this ? Mike: Yes and No... yes, I've done it; no, I can't think of any reason not to... I don't necessarily see anything wrong with what you have planned, although it is a lot more work than what I do... I just slap a hose onto the gas out fitting (poppet removed, of course) and then wait until fermentation has died down... at that point, I rack it to another keg... I've bent the dip tube so it is about 1.5" off the bottom, and I throw away a few pints to get rid of the worst of the yeast cloud when I rack... then I push into a new keg, and wait a while before sticking it in the fridge (or lager, depending on the brew)... Occasionally, I get a fairly cloudy keg, which I guess is what I get for being so casual about the whole thing. Anyway, those are my thoughts... your system ought to work fine, but if you decide that swapping a blowoff hose for an airlock and pushing yeast out every day are too much work, then don't be shy about not doing those steps. Fermenting in corny's has been one of the best things I've done... it has allowed me to control my fermentation temp (because I could fit 2 kegs into my little temp chamber where I could only fit one carboy) and has reduced cleanup time immeasurably. For a certified klutz, it means no more moving glass carboys around. cheers, mike Monterey, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 00:42:43 -0500 From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com> Subject: German-American Homebrewers? Interesting question! I recently started making my own wine. When I went to the Farmer's Mkt to pick up some California grapes, the store owner says to me in a thick Italian accent: "Hey! You don't look like a wop." ... I guess lots of Italians are into home wine making. Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 07:31:24 -0500 From: "Alan Folsom" <alan at folsoms.net> Subject: Re: Vanilla bean - source? Vanilla bean shouldn't be too hard to find. Any 'gourmet' supermarket should have it, or any local cookware shop that has spices. If you're stuck, the absolute best place (unsolicited testimonial) for getting any spices is www.penzeys.com. They have three varieties of fresh vanilla. Finally, our local homebrew store carries fresh vanilla all the time. In interest of full disclosure I do fill in there occasionally to feed my habit, but keystonehomebrew (www.keystonehomebrew.com) carries it and they will ship next day if you call and ask nicely ;-) Cut the beans in half lengthwise, and scrape the stuff from the middle, that's where the flavor comes from. I would definitely put it in secondary, as lots of aroma would be lost earler. If you want a nice vanilla flavor I'd suggest two beans in five gallons, and taste after a few days to see how it's going. It would probably be a week or so, but it's to taste. Al Folsom - -- Alan L. Folsom, Jr. alan at folsoms.net http://www.folsoms.net PGP Public Key Available on Servers Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 14:50:35 GMT From: "val.dan.morey at juno.com" <val.dan.morey@juno.com> Subject: Uses for Temperature Correction Factor Fred comments: > Perhaps ... given us reason to make some adjustments to those formulas. I believe temperature correction factors can be useful in the following applications: 1. First wort hopping 2. Mash hopping 3. Dry hopping 4. Batch that are cooled slowly such as Lambic or Berliner Weiss 5. Batches that are not boiled but rather are simmered for several hours with hops. Are there other temperature correction models available? Do you agree that temperature correction factors would be useful? I for one, would like to see more work in this area. Cheers, Dan Morey Club BABBLE http://hbd.org/babble/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 10:22:48 -0500 From: "Strom C. Thacker" <strom at wort.org> Subject: Pump/recirc. with a CFC? I typically don't use my pump with my CFC, mostly b/c I don't have the fittings set up to do it (the pump tubing is semi-rigid polypro. tubing with polypro. compression fittings, while the chiller tubing is soft vinyl with hose barbs). This may be silly, but all of this talk of using a pump with a CFC has me wondering if it would make any sense at all to use a pump with a CFC to recirculate the cooled wort back into the boiling kettle until the entire volume of wort is close to pitching temp. This would be similar to what some folks do with an immersion chiller. My thought is that it would set up a nice hop bed/filter (I use a false bottom in my boiler), leave the cold break behind, and probably still cool the wort pretty fast. And it would allow you to cool the wort to lower temps, convenient for lagers with relatively warm cooling water. The downside is that the wort would go from hot to cold to hot/warm to cold again, especially at the beginning of the recirculation process. Assuming no significant air uptake at hot temps, is this a bad thing? Are there good reasons to do (or not to do) this? Thanks, Strom Newton, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 21:30:36 +0200 From: Alon Philosof <rahel-f at bezeqint.net> Subject: B.Sc yeast project hi! I'm interested in doing a project (and a paper of course) on beer yeast for credit to my biology B.Sc university diploma. I know there are are a few biologists on list so I thought I'd ask for help with an Idea or guidance. the project is to be done in a single academic year (2 semesters). I prefer to focus on biochemistry and or cell physiology, maybe even with a commercial or practical aspect. so, feel free to help, thanks a bunch. Schrodinger's cat Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 15:59:29 -0600 From: "steve lane" <tbirdusa at hotmail.com> Subject: where to put the pump I'm making the plunge to put a pump on the boil kettle. My boil kettle setup is a ball valve with a slotted copper circle at the bottom and when I had the kettle welded, I had two 1/2" stainless female couplings welded to the side 10" up and 16" up from the bottom. I'm thinking that these two is where I will run the pump inlet and outlet. I figured to use the ball valve coupling at the bottom to drain the kettle once the wort is chilled and not run it through the pump. For those that are using the pump on the boiler, do you put it on the outflow of the CFC or on the inflow? I'm using the side openings as my thinking says I can create one whale of a whirlpool while chilling and it will keep alot of the hops and cold break out of the pump inlet. Any thoughts on why this setup should be errrrr..... set up differently? Thanks, Stephen Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 16:10:55 -0600 From: "Ronald La Borde" <pivoron at cox.net> Subject: Fermenting in a corny keg >From: "Webb, Mike" <mike.webb at pse.com> > >I'm contemplating using a corny for a fermenter. I know of several who do this, including myself. It works well for me, since I changed from the glass carboys. I have only fermented in corny's about 5 or 6 times, but that is now my standard method. When the club does a brewoff, it's sooooo much easier to transport the sealed wort in a corny than carry a glass carboy in the car back home. One member dropped his carboy on the way to his car, ruining the whole brew day for him; well, he did have some beer to drink, and lunch, so maybe the day was not completely ruined. That's how I got started with the corny, so now I usually use it at home also. I do have more blowoff because I use a 5 gallon corny. I have cut the long dip tube off about 3/4 inch in the primary. This allows me to transfer out without moving much of the bottom yeast sediment along with the beer. Once I used some StarSan and pumped it out of the corny I was going to use as a secondary only to then remember that I just left about an inch of StarSan on the bottom. I hate to tell you when I remembered this - but it was just immediately after I moved my IPA to it! Now I do not cut the tube on the secondary. This allows me to flush all the sanitizer out. The idea of purging some yeast out from time to time sounds good, but I would guess it would not be likely to budge off the bottom in any meaningful amount. It's worth a try though. I am trying to come up with a way to use a closed system of transfer. I have been able to move from the primary corny to the secondary keg with the peristaltic pump. I use the pump as a vacuum pump on the secondary gas in connector with the beer transferred from primary liquid out to secondary liquid out (now in). I wait until the primary is almost empty and stop transfer. In order to be free of air in the secondary, I put the sanitizer into the secondary to completely fill it up, then move it out with CO2. When I transfer from the primary, the entire setup is sanitary and closed to the outside except for the air bleed input on top of the primary. I could use a filter at this point, but I have not done this yet; just realize I could also put some CO2 at very low pressure here and eliminate air. It's a lot of work, wastes CO2, and takes time. The beer tastes no different then when I used to just siphon off the glass carboy, so is all this necessary, probably not, but it's a nice entertainment on a good day outside. Ron ===== Ronald J. La Borde -- Metairie, LA New Orleans is the suburb of Metairie, LA www.hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 18:06:15 -0500 From: "John Oconnell" <JOconnell at martinriley.com> Subject: Brewing and Heritage Subject: German-American Homebrewers? As a mostly Scotch-Irish southerner (not to be confused with the "Scotch-Irish" who settled much of the rural south, but a recent, one-generation, merger of West Virginia and New Jersey families), I looked over the names from the 2004 Mid-South Homebrew Series Winners, posted a few days ago. This time I tried to make a few guesses about the heritage of the brewers listed. http://www.antiochsudsuckers.com/midsouth/mshboy2004.htm Given that you tend to guess wrong with this method as often as you guess right, and that names are changed over the years, I would still have to admit that "Germanic" surnames show up more often than a comparative sample pulled from a phone book. But there are more obvious common denominators present: 1. The names are generally male (no one would dispute this is a male-dominated hobby). (With all due deference to Tina Collier, of course!) 2. The names are generally "Northern European." That is, no Chans, Martinez, Obamas, or Patels on the list. So, without diving into stereotypes any more than I have already, and given the sample is a list of homebrewers who live in the south, what can be discerned about the common heritage of the people who brew? 1. They come from a heritage historically familiar with beer and brewing. 2. They come from social and religious backgrounds that do not prohibit drinking alcohol. 3. They come from groups that have generally achieved the economic stability to allow them to indulge in somewhat time-consuming, unprofitable hobbies. German-Americans score high on all three items. As do Irish- British- Scotch- and even Belgian- and Polish-Americans. I'm not sure, given the three qualities listed, any particular heritage group is more or less represented in homebrewing, based on population. Cheers, John O'Connell Atlanta, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 20:57:37 -0500 From: "Troy A. Wilson" <troy at troyandjulia.com> Subject: RE:Vanilla bean - source? I'm not sure of an easy source. I bought mine at a spice specialty store in Milwaukee. I do know that I took two whole beans and chopped them into small pieces and tossed them into the secondary for about 2 weeks. I had a fantasticly subtle vanilla flavour to my beer. I assume had I left the beer on it longer the flavour would have gotten stronger. I'm sure you can just sample the beer until it hits the flavour intensity you are looking for then rack your beer to bottles or keg. Troy Twin Geeks Brewers Seymour, IN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 21:39:07 -0500 From: "Rick Gordon" <regordon at bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: fermenting in a corny Mike asked about fermenting in a corny keg - I occasionally use a corny for a secondary. The key is that if you leave the valve as is, you will build up pressure and have to release it every so often. I believe that lagering beer should not be disturbed by hard working people with better things to do, so I took an old gas-in connector and removed the valve parts (spring, poppet, and everything). I plugged the "out" tube with a short piece of tubing and a large bolt - the other opening is left open. On the keg, I take off the whole gas-in valve and use an extra gas-in valve with the guts and inlet tube removed - you could just remove the parts on the original valve and put it back on if you can't dig up another valve body. I have an airlock and small rubber stopper that just fits hole in the top of the gas-in connector to complete the system. The end result is a closed fermentation system just like any other fermenter. I shove the whole thing into the beer fridge and let it lager away - no worries about pressure build up etc. At kegging time I replace the modified gas-in valve and connector with the normal ones and either push the beer into another keg (beer-out to beer-out) using gas, or, when I am really lazy, I have been known to just carbonate her up and damn the sediment (not recommended, but it works). If you've taken the effort to lager it, you should obviously take the time to rack to a clean keg. In theory you could rack several more times, but I'm too impatient. You can also trim the beer-out tube in the fermenter corny a bit to help reduce any sediment transfer. Never tell anyone that the batch in the keg right now came out really great and they just have to try it or the keg will invariably blow in the middle of the pour. "Here's half a glass of foam, but I swear the rest of the keg was really tasty!" Rick Gordon "Hopfen und Malz, Gott Erhalt's" Return to table of contents
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