HOMEBREW Digest #467 Wed 25 July 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Cornelius kegs and parties (florianb)
  Cooling lager yeasts (Kenneth R. van Wyk)
  Re:  Malt Bricks (techentin)
  starter hops, IPA (RUSSG)
  re: Munich Malt (VANAGS)
  various items (Tom Nolan)
  Ken's sparging problems (florianb)
  Juniper Ale? (John S. Watson - FSC)
  wort chiller questions answered (florianb)
  Federal Excise Tax Increase (Dave Suurballe)
  Cleaning wort coolers... ("Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503  24-Jul-1990 1736")
  Recipes for extract based wheat beer (CORONELLRJDS)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #466 (July 24, 1990) (Ed Falk)
  (none) (FRISRM)
  novice brewer questions answered (florianb)
  off tastes from honey (mage!lou)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 23 Jul 90 12:40:23 PDT (Mon) From: florianb at tekred.cna.tek.com Subject: Cornelius kegs and parties Mark Leone writes to ask: >Just out of curiosity, is it possible to attach a normal, hand-pumped >beer tap to a Cornelius keg? I.e., if you're bringing a keg to a >party, do you have to lug along your CO_2 cylinder, etc.? It should be possible to do anything, given enough time and resources. The parts you would require to do this would be probably 50% available and 50% custom. Looks like a good hobby to distract you from life/family/ beer/etc. Here's why: 1 There would be a lot of fabrication involved. 2 You will need CO2 anyway, unless you are going to drink all the brew at the party. 3 Hand pumps probably wouldn't provide the uniform pressure needed to give a nice, smooth flow (required for head control) 4 Transportation of home beer in kegs leads to a churning up of the yeast layer on the keg bottom. You will arrive at the party with a keg of muddy beer, ruining your chances of impressing that special crowd with your incredible ability to make your own beer. (Unless you filter it first.) I still can't bring myself to share 5 gallons of hard-brewed beer with a rowdy crowd of schludwiller-guzzling normals. I find that inviting them over to my territory is much more rewarding. And finally, I've found that home brew is never as good after transportation beyond the place where it was brewed. I mean it just likes to stay home. Florian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 07:23:58 EDT From: Kenneth R. van Wyk <krvw at cert.sei.cmu.edu> Subject: Cooling lager yeasts Although I've made quite a few batches of ales, I'm still very new to lagering (I did buy and read Noonan's book...), and I have a question for all you lagerers (?) out there. Noonan suggests (demands?!) pitching the yeast at very low temperatures (~45F, I believe) and that the starter culture be at high krausen at pitching time. Also, Wyeast says that its liquid yeast cultures should be incubated at 70-80F. Finally, Noonan says that under no circumstances should the yeast be cooled more than 5F per day and that the starter culture should be no more than 5F more than the wort at pitching time. So, how do you all start your yeast for lagering? Get it going at 70F and then slowly cool to 45F for pitching? By Noonan's standards, that would take 5 days just to cool the little beasties. I pitched my yeast at cold (for summer) room temp, about 68-70F, and then cooled the wort to 48F in my fridge, but I'm afraid that I shocked the yeast into hibernation. I'm concerned - but not worried yet. After all, every bottle that I own is currently full with some fine (IMHO) ale... Suggestions greatly appreciated, Ken (a concerned parent) van Wyk Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 07:36:22 CDT From: techentin at Mayo.edu Subject: Re: Malt Bricks zentner at cn.ecn.purdue.edu (Mike Zentner) writes about problems with dried malt extract hardening into bricks. I have had similar problems, but with dextrose as well as the malt. Mine never made it into bricks. It typically became bag shaped with bits of paper stuck to it. Not a pretty sight. Now I pack all paper bags of dextrose and any half used bags of dried malt extract into a gallon ziploc with about a tablespoon of uncooked rice. Uncle Ben's makes a pretty good desiccant. - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Techentin Internet: techentin at Mayo.edu Mayo Foundation, Rochester MN, 55905 USA (507) 284-2702 - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 09:18 EST From: <R_GELINA%UNHH.BITNET at MITVMA.MIT.EDU> (RUSSG) Subject: starter hops, IPA Someone asked about adding hops to a yeast starter solution. I think that is done to keep the risk of infection to a minimum; the hops provide an anti- bacterial and preservative effect. Has anyone tried a Ballantine IPA? I had a few of them recently and liked it very much. Falstaff Brewing Co.! Why can't more small breweries make a good beer, rather than try to compete with Swiller et.al? RussG. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 1990 8:35:48 CDT From: VANAGS at ADCALC.FNAL.GOV Subject: re: Munich Malt In Homebrew Digest #462, Gerald Andrew Winters asks > Does anybody know a source of dark Munich malt (20 L)? I have about 5 or >so homebrew catalogs and all list the light Munich malt (10 L). If anybody >knows a source I'd sure you'd pass it along. Thanks. Jerry We're fortunate to have many good homebrew supply shops in the Chicago area, but the best (IMHO) is the HEADHUNTERS c/o The Lil' Olde Winemaking Shoppe. They have almost everything you'd want. They even have an Amber Munich malt by Ireks - nothing darker though. You can contact the owner Greg Lawrence at (708)554-2523 or write for a catalog at RT1 BOX 64W, Sugar Grove, Illinois 60554. If you're ever in the Chicago area, the Headhunters Homebrew club has monthly beer tastings. Cheers, Laura Vanags vanags at adcalc.fnal.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 10:37:06 EDT From: nolan at lheavx.DNET.NASA.GOV (Tom Nolan) Subject: various items To Captain Kirk, who wants to know about left-handed potato peelers: Most peelers I have seen are double-edged, so they go both ways! I know a guy who says his mom (left-handed) always exchanged peelers with her neighbor (right-handed) after six months. Then they'd buy two new ones and repeat the process. To russg, who wants to know about Italian beers: When I'm in a Chinese restaurant, I always order Tsing Tao. I don't know what theory I'm operating under. Its kind of ridiculous, because the "real" Chinese always drink Budweiser. Anyway I always order Italian beer at Italian restaurants, too. There are three that I see with regularity, and Moretti is the best of the lot. It's a malty lager with a creamy feel. I can't seem to conjure up the names of the other two. Probably I'll think of them right after I post this. To Gary F. Mason, who wants to know about hops in starters: Its the preservative effect. Many bugs don't like hops, but yeasts don't seem to mind it. Finally a request: I'm sorry if this causes a repetition (I may have lost a digest or two), but I'd like to see Pete Soper's plans for the mash-tun based around a picnic cooler. Thanks. Tom Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Jul 90 12:58:56 PDT (Tue) From: florianb at tekred.cna.tek.com Subject: Ken's sparging problems Ken Johnson says, >Also, I was wondering how I can be more efficient with my sparging. For a >five gal. batch with 10 lb of grain (8 pale and 2 crystal or munich) I was >getting an IG of around 1046. It seems that this should be higher. I'm > >that of the grain. I use about five gallons of sparge water. Yesterday, >I brewed a batch with 10 lb of pale malt using the same technique and got >an IG of 1055. What up? Lawzee! Something's broken. Do you use a grain bag? If so, throw it away. Are you following the usual rules such as recirculation, pH adjustment, and so on as recommended in the good books? Could you describe your lauter tun in more detail? Is it a Zapap system or a single 5-gal bucket with a vegetable steamer? Are you testing for complete starch conversion using iodine? Anyone else want to touch this one? The 10# of pale 2-row should provide approximately (10/5)*33=66 sg points. Perhaps you should continue to sparge until the sg drops to 1.002-1.003, then boil down farther to concentrate the solution. Hope this helps, Florian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 13:12:27 PDT From: John S. Watson - FSC <watson at pioneer.arc.nasa.gov> Subject: Juniper Ale? Hi Folks, I've recently came across a reference that mentioned Juniper might once have been an ingredient in ale: From "Cape Cod" by Henry David Thoreau, Oct. 1849, page 117: "I picked up a bottle half buried in the wet sand, covered with barnacles, but stoppled tight, and half full of red ale, which still smacked of juniper, --all that remained I fancied from the wreck of a rowdy world, -- that great salt sea on the one hand, and this little sea of ale on the other, preserving their separate characters. What if it could tell us its adventures over countless oceans waves! Man would not be man through such ordeals as it had passed. But as I poured it slowly out onto the sand, it seemed to me that man himself was like a half-emptied bottle of pale ale, which Time had drunk so far, yet stoppled tight for a while, and drifting about in the ocean of circumstances, but destined erelong to mingle with the surrounding waves, or be spilled amid the sands of distant shore." (Could it be he's confusing ale and some other drink of yore (gin)?, or maybe he's confusing juniper and spruce? ) Did the juniper taste come from berries or its storage in juniper barrels? Assume the above juniper taste came from the berries, has anyone ever made an Ale using them? I would think it might make a sort of gin tasting beer. How much do you think you'd use? Thanks, John S. Watson, Civil Servant from Hell ARPA: watson at ames.arc.nasa.gov UUCP: ...!ames!watson Homebrew Naked! Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Jul 90 12:43:55 PDT (Tue) From: florianb at tekred.cna.tek.com Subject: wort chiller questions answered In yesterday's HBD, Todd Koumrian asks: >I've just assembled a wort chiller. There is some residual crud on >the copper tubing that was there when I got it. Assuming it doesn't >come off with soap and water (which I haven't done yet), how should >I clean it off? Use nail polish remover, a scouring pad, some neutral solvent, or all. >I've seen the previous wort-chiller cleaning discussion and am likewise >not interested in finding out what TSP or bleach will do to copper. I >feel that dumping the thing in a boiling pot of wort ought to sanitize >it, so I'll stick to soap and water until I hear of something better. I'll tell us anyway. TSP won't do anything to copper. In my experience, bleach doesn't either. I wash my chiller all the time in tri-chlor, which is a combination of TSP and chlorine bleach. Yes, dipping it into boiling wort will sanitize it. But you shouldn't use soap on it. Soap films are "bad" for beer (thanks, Mr. President). Florian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 13:43:22 PDT From: hsfmsh.UUCP!suurb at cgl.ucsf.EDU (Dave Suurballe) Subject: Federal Excise Tax Increase I picked this up at the Oregon Brewer's Festival last week. It's on the stationery of James C. Sanders, president of the Beer Institute, whatever that is, at 1225 Eye Street, N.W. Washington, D.C. 20005, (202) 737-BEER FAX (202) 737-7004. start of transcription ---------------------- TO: Brewers & Beer Importers Doing Business in the U.S. Beer Institute Associate Members Wholesale Beer Association Executive Secretaries FROM: James C. Sanders RE: Federal Excise Tax Increase - Assistance During Fourth of July Recess With President Bush's announcement that increased taxes will be a part of deficit reduction efforts, additional pressure will be imposed upon members of the "budget summit" and the U.S. Congress to include federal excise tax increases on beer as part of the budget package. It is important that you immediately contact your members of Congress, while they are at home during the Fourth of July Congressional Recess between June 29th and July 9th, to voice your opposition to any increase in Federal excise taxes on beer. In addition, special emphasis should be given to members of the budget summit (copy attached), Senate Finance and House Ways and Means Committees. As noted in the attached talking points, increased excise taxes on beer are regressive. Excise taxes on beer cost Americans with annual earning of between $10,000 and $20,000 three times more in percentage of income than those earning over $50,000. Increased excise taxes will result in loss of sales and loss of employment, including those who supply the beer industry (i.e., agriculture and packaging). We would appreciate any feedback you may get from members of Congress and we hope that you will call if you need additional information or assistance. Enclosures cc: Brewers Association of America Association of Brewers Trade Press end of transcription ---------------------- I do not have the enclosures mentioned, and I did not transcribe two lines of text which were apparently added (by a slightly different typewriter) to the original letter. The first is at the end of the second-to-last paragraph: "Would raise the cost of a six pak 1.00$", and the second is centered at the bottom of the page: "Call 1 800 33- TAXES and voice your disaproval". From the incompetant spelling and the format of the price increase and phone number I guess the writer is a recent immigrant. Anybody know what this Beer Institute outfit is? Is it the brewing industry's lobbyist? Suurb Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 14:48:22 PDT From: "Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503 24-Jul-1990 1736" <mason at habs11.enet.dec.com> Subject: Cleaning wort coolers... I had the same question - what to use to clean it. I steel-wooled all obvious coatings, glue, etc. from my materials prior to assembly, but now have flux all over. I'd prefer an immersion cleaning, because of the possibility of missing something by hand. Does anyone know what's in Dip-It? It works great on my steel thermos. Maybe I'll try a furniture stripper (commercial - large tank). Or a furnace - anyone know the melting point of solder? 8') As for the question on kegging purchase - I finally stopped splitting hairs and went with the Frozen Wort. Prices were very competitive; they are reasonably close to me (I'm in NH, they're in MA, so no taxes); and Charlie was very cooperative and helpful, always a plus. [As an aside, I haven't found a single person associated with this avocation that hasn't been cooperative and helpful. What a nice group to be a part of.] I also got my pot from him. I couldn't find a better deal or a better pot (highly rated by my chef type friends - Vollrath), even from Rapids. Gary Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 16:02 MST From: CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU Subject: Recipes for extract based wheat beer Greetings: I know this has been discussed in past issues, but I'm curious to get fresh input. My brew partner and I are planning to brew a wheat beer soon, so I'm looking for extract-based recipes. I notice that Charlie has completely ommitted from CJoHB (extract based) wheat-beer recipes. I suspect that the lack of malted-wheat extracts at the time of publishing is probably the reason for this. I'm thinking of a Bavarian-style wheat beer. Any suggestions or comments? Thanks for your help, Chuck Coronella Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 15:23:31 PDT From: falk at Sun.COM (Ed Falk) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #466 (July 24, 1990) Hi; could you shut off my feed for a while, I'm going on vacation. ADVthanxANCE, -ed falk, falk at sun.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 17:42:32 EDT From: FRISRM%morekypr at pucc.PRINCETON.EDU Subject: (none) I just purchased some used equipment (air traps and a racking tube) and they look kind of grungy. Can anyone suggest a good way of cleaning them. I was thinking of just soaking them in a bleach solution, but I remembered someone saying that bleach might be damaging to some equipment. These are plastic parts with rubber stoppers. thanks, Rick FRISRM at MOREKYPR Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Jul 90 17:04:23 PDT (Tue) From: florianb at tekred.cna.tek.com Subject: novice brewer questions answered Michael Rosen asks some basic questions: >I am new to the idea of homebrew, and everything attached to >it, but it is a subject that intrigues me a lot. I was wondering >if there were any standard texts, or advice that all of you >vets out there can give me. Hands down, Papazain's book "The Complete Joy of Homebrewing" is the best beginner's book. If it had an index, it would be better, but the index is available from electronic archives. Query for more details. >Also, I was curious about the economic realaties of homebrewing. >Is it the type of thing where beer/mead/whatnot is produced cheaper >commercially? I acknowledge that making it is half the fun, but >was curious if it was also cheaper monetarily. (Or on what scale Yes, beer is produced commercially cheaper, in some cases. You can figure $10 for 5 gallons of a basic recipe, not including heat to boil. For $15 per 5 gallons you can brew a real good home brew including liquid yeast starter. But as with many other things, there is little value in discussing price when quality and personal satisfaction is involved. How much does fish cost if you go out and catch it yourself? Do you include the transportation, the rod and reel, the time, etc? The point is that for $15 you can brew 5 gallons of beer which you cannot buy anywhere else. Plus, it will be the best beer in the world, because *you* brewed it! >would it be profitable?) I'm also curious as to the timescales >that are involved. (How long does it take to make a "good" beer) >What kind of capital is needed? By profitable, I take it to mean professional. You must brew at least 1000 bbl per year to support a brewpub, as far as I can tell. Above that, the sky is the limit. It takes about two weeks for a microbrewery to brew ale. It takes the homebrewer about 4-6 weeks to brew a comparable ale. As for lager, the homebrewer can brew in about the same time as the US commercial brewers-- at least 6 weeks. 2-3 months is preferred. To be able to brew a good beer without creating a disaster in your kitchen and pissing off everyone who lives in the house with you, you will need certain basic equipment. This equipment will cost about $50 for the materials needed to brew an extract beer. To go all grain will require another $25-$50. After that, various other pieces of equipment will enter in to the picture. These will be devices to aid in the brewing, such as a wort chiller, etc. Other contributors will have different, but similar experiences and comments. Now stop wondering about it and join in!! You will have endless joy and intrigue in your future!! Start getting that equipment together! Florian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 90 21:59:59 MDT From: hplabs!mage!lou Subject: off tastes from honey RussG writes: >I've also got a brown ale of sorts that has been bottle for 10 days or so, and >it is not clearing at all (unlike all my other batches). I also has a sharply >"homebrew" taste (sour, bitter, off, but not particularly bad). It is my first >batch using honey (2 lbs. of bargain stuff). Is the honey responsible? Is is >the dreaded "I" word? I'm letting it sit for a couple of weeks..... Honey beers take much longer to age than other beers. Try letting your beer set for a couple of months. I often make ginger-honey beers (a la TCJoHB) that can take up to six months to be drinkable but eventually become heavenly. BTW, I object to the expression `"homebrew" taste'. There was some traffic recently ranking homebrew as somewhere below American microbreweries and above American megabreweries. If anyone doesn't consider homebrew to be better than the microbreweries and generally as good or better than the best commercially available brews, then that person has been drinking the wrong homebrew. Louis Clark mage!lou at ncar.ucar.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #467, 07/25/90 ************************************* -------
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