HOMEBREW Digest #4697 Thu 13 January 2005

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  Re: Lawnmower beer ("Kevin Morgan")
  Re: Oh, So Hot!! ("Jonathan Westphal")
  Lager yeasts ("Pat Casey")
  French Country Ale (HOMEBRE973)
  Yeast Ranching -- Shoppin List for Supplies ("Janie Curry")
  WZZ Homebrew Competition ("John C.Tull")
  Yeast Ranching --  Plating vs. Freezing Under Glycerin ("Janie Curry")
  Re: braised plate heat exchangers ("I ≠ coldheart")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 04:46:14 -0500 From: "Kevin Morgan" <kevin.morgan2 at verizon.net> Subject: Re: Lawnmower beer For me it means low in alcohol AND low in F.G so I can drink lots of them without getting too drunk to mow AND it doesn't fill me up too much. Kevin.......Brewing/Meading in South Jersey, USA From: "Phil Yates" <phil.yates at bigpond.com> Subject: Oh, So Hot!! Now I know at this time of year in the USA, it's awfully hard to imagine that your southern Oz pals are really cookin. But today, we're really really cookin! Snip Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 08:55:10 -0400 From: "Jonathan Westphal" <Wesjo at reg2.health.nb.ca> Subject: Re: Oh, So Hot!! >Now I know at this time of year in the USA, it's awfully hard to imagine >that your southern Oz pals are really cookin. But today, we're really really >cookin! As I scrape the ice off my windshield tomorrow morning, I will pause a moment to think of your plight ... ye bastard! >We've talked about "lawn mower" beers for many years but I never bothered to ask what such a thing >was. Is it supposed to be light in alcohol, so you can scoff down six or seven in as many minutes (and not fall >off the ride on mower)? Something like that. If you haven't already, I would also suggest you mount a drink holder on the mower for convenience ;-) >Is it supposed to be light in colour and flavour? Yes. But it should still be satisfying. Here is a recipe I made all last summer that went over very well (couldn't keep it in the house), and whose taste belies its low gravity. Hampton Gentlemen's Club Lawnmower Ale 10% Light Caramel Malt 90% 2 Row OG 1.038 Mash high to ensure there is plenty of body.. Single addition of Tettnang or Hallertau to 25 IBU (small flavour addition optional). Use a neutral ale yeast (or lager yeast, if you can wait that long for it). With this one, the main thing you notice is that your glass always seems to be empty and you want more... Jonathan Westphal Hampton NB Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 00:30:30 +1100 From: "Pat Casey" <pat at bmbrews.com.au> Subject: Lager yeasts The dried 34/70 is supposed to be the same as the Wyeast Bohemian and Whitelabs German Lager. I've used it a fair bit over the last 6 months and found that first time round it can be very slow to kick off. On repitching, it takes off quite quickly and performs well. Despite its commercial popularity, it's not a universal yeast. For Steve - ESB 3 kg Stout with Saflager S-23 comes out nicely, and have you enjoyed the New Year sumo? It fits precisely the same cultural niche as the Boxing Day Test. On the issue of liquid v dried yeasts, if the strain is the same then I can't see any difference on second and later generations, especially if its micro-brewery or amateur use. Scotty - re 514: is it the yeast or the "beer" that normally uses it? Pat Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:10:46 -0500 From: HOMEBRE973 at aol.com Subject: French Country Ale I was thinking of making a French Country Ale (Biere de Garde) using 50% Vienna and 50% Munich Malt with a single infusion mass. I was going to pitch it with Wyeast 3787 Trappist High Gravity yeast and ferment below 65 F. I was hoping for any comments either pro or con. Thanks Andy from Hillsborough, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 15:23:16 +0000 From: "Janie Curry" <houndandcalico at hotmail.com> Subject: Yeast Ranching -- Shoppin List for Supplies It's time to start yeast ranching! With pitchable tubes selling for over $6 each and smack packs getting harder to find, I'd like to start plating out some cultures and banking some yeast in a library. Over the years, I have successfully stored yeast under beer in flasks in the refrigerator for months. I would split the refrigerator culture each time I brewed. Half went into one flask for brewing and the other half was used to innoculate the flask that would go back into the refrigerator. I'm sure they weren't the healthiest of yeast cultures by scientific standards, but it worked fine. It also took up a lot of room in the kitchen refrigerator. I've also read about storing washed yeast under glycerine and water for freezing. Perhaps I'll try that too. I have a nice stir plate, alcohol lamp, and several 500ml flasks. Besides an innoculation loop, glass petri dishes, agar, and a pressure canner or cooker, what else do I need? Maybe a small refrigerator just for yeast? Any recommendations on gasketless pressure cookers / canners? Anyone have a shopping list for equipment and supplies? Looks like Cynmar is a popular mail order supplier. Any other recommendations? Anyone have recommendations for a homebrew supply shop in Colorado? Todd in Fort Collins Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 11:56:54 -0800 From: "John C.Tull" <jctull at gmail.com> Subject: WZZ Homebrew Competition I am pleased to announce the availability of online registration for the 2005 Washoe Zephyr Zymurgists Homebrew Competition. Our competition receives over 100 entries and includes a judge pool that reflects our commitment to quality judging and feedback for all entries. This is an excellent warm-up event for the AHA National HBC. The WZZ HBC is open to all 2004 BJCP Styles, including meads and ciders. The Best of Show winner will win $50 gift certificates from both The Reno Homebrewer and Beer, Beer & More Beer, a commemorative half-yard glass, and they will have the opportunity to brew their recipe at Great Basin Brewing Company in Reno, Nevada. (See the competition web page for details.) Judging will be held on 27 February at Silver Peak Brewery & Restaurant in Reno, Nevada. Entries will be accepted at our two drop-off locations from 5-19 February. Drop-off locations are The Reno Homebrewer and Beer, Beer and More Beer in Concord, CA. Entries that will be shipped are to be sent to the Reno Homebrewer to be received by 19 February. Directions and entry instructions are available on our web page linked below. I encourage everyone to enter as many beers as they would like. Cost is $6 for the first entry, and $4 for each additional entry. Details and links to the online registration system are available from our web site: http://www.washoezz.net/competition.html Please contact me if you have any questions. Good luck! John Tull WZZ HBC Organizer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 23:23:10 +0000 From: "Janie Curry" <houndandcalico at hotmail.com> Subject: Yeast Ranching -- Plating vs. Freezing Under Glycerin I found good instructions for preparing plates and maintaining cultures at the Bodensatz dot com website...thanks to those who made them available. Reading those instructions generated a few questions. How do you get from the trub at the bottom of the fermentor to the culture plate? I've read about washing yeast with distilled water. Is that the preffered method? I assume you could then freeze washed yeast under glycerin and water after washing from the trub. Where would plating come into play? When do folks plate vs. freeze washed yeast? The Bodensatz site mentions straining trub through a sterile filter but did not give any more specific instructions on what to do next. I assume that the yeast do not pass through the filter and that is what you plate from? Please explain. Todd in Fort Collins GPS coordinates soon to follow Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 17:24:03 -0800 (PST) From: "I &#8800; coldheart" <rebelcat1 at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: braised plate heat exchangers In response to Martin's statments, my primary conern with brazed plate chillers is that since nothing is forcing liquid into the corners of the unit, there is no reason for build-up to be removed. The cold break, which is what I'm primarly concerned about, can just sit quietly in low flow areas as cleaning solution follows the path of least resistance. Also, I was under the impression that having low preasure in the exchanger was nessicary for proper performance. My boiler has a 1.5 inch opening, and if I want to drain 50 gallons through that .5 inch opening in a reasonable time it would have to be under a fair amount of pressure. One of the major plusses to building my own unit would be that I could give it 1.5 inch openings for the wort and coolant. Anyway, if I wrong about that please let me know, seems sort of central to my view of the situation. Return to table of contents
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