HOMEBREW Digest #4779 Tue 24 May 2005

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  RE:  taking into account the rice hulls? (Wayne Faris)
  Hop Storage ("Stephen Johnson")
  Re: Sight Glass Material (Bob Tower)
  Re: More on rice hulls (Nate Wahl)
  alcoholic taste (Nathaniel Lansing)
  Re: Perfect sterilization solution (Dylan Tack)
  Pumping iodophor ("Peed, John")
  Faro? (leavitdg)
  RE: Rice Hulls (Ricardo Cabeza)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 22:26:33 -0500 From: Wayne Faris <ke0bz at arrl.net> Subject: RE: taking into account the rice hulls? I use rice hulls in almost every brew since I mill my malt pretty fine and a lot of my beers use either wheat or oats. I don't take the hulls into account with my strike water. I don't even measure the amount of hulls I use. I just toss in 3 or 4 big handfulls as I add my grains. If my crush looks exceptionally fine or am using lots of oats, I'll toss in a little more. I batch sparge, so I figure my strike water on 1.25 qts/lb. I put in all but the last 1/2 gallon and check the temp, then adjust the temp with the last addition. If it still looks a bit thick, I will add a bit more water (up to 1.35 qts/lb.). I figure, it's beer, not rocket science, so I keep the process simple. No need for fancy formulas to account for the rice hulls. Wayne Bugeater Brewing Company - -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 266.11.15 - Release Date: 5/22/2005 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 23:06:16 -0500 From: "Stephen Johnson" <sjohnson3 at comcast.net> Subject: Hop Storage I just saw an ad for a new Glad food storage product: Press and Seal Freezer Wrap sheets that are designed to store food products in the freezer. They are sheets of wrap that can be laid flat and the food item placed in between, followed by pressing action that seals the two sheets together. Has anyone tried these for use with storing hops that have been opened from original packaging? Just curious as to how oxygen permeable they might be... Steve Johnson Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 00:37:34 -0700 From: Bob Tower <tower at cybermesa.com> Subject: Re: Sight Glass Material There's been a lot of talk about material for making sight glasses. I got some great ideas from this and will be switching over to the polycarbonate tubes. Does anyone have any ideas for an ELEGANT way of marking the volumes on the sight glass? The "best" idea I've come up with so far is to print it out on sticky back transparency material and adhere it to the glass then put another layer of the transparency material over the first so that the print doesn't get scratched off. My only worry is how well the adhesive stands up to the heat of a boil kettle. Also, I'm not sure you can get sticky back transparency material in which case a clear adhesive would need to be applied to the back of the transparency material. Also, it just occurred to me that the transparency material itself might not hold up to the heat. But It sure would like nicer than hand made gallon/liter marks made with a black felt tip pen. I must confess that is how my current glass is marked and I've seen no other method on the many pictures of others' glasses I've seen on the web. Bob Tower Los Angeles, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 06:59:40 -0400 From: Nate Wahl <cruiser at coastalwave.net> Subject: Re: More on rice hulls Hmmm, say that subject line real fast.....! For systems with continuous flow (RIMS, HEARMS), the filter bed is set up during the initial recirc while mashing; lautering is just a continuation of that flow through the grainbed. So for them, if the batch needs rice hulls, they go in at the beginning. Otherwise they'd only be needed when lautering. Filter media is usually fiber (or little dead sea critter fossils), so the hulls probably just bulk out the sticky mash for better flow. I've occasionally had to use them with non-sticky grainbills to get things unstuck, and it always seems to work. Richard's tip on pre-soaking the hulls during a pre-heat was great! Thanks! Here's another semi-related tip in return: "Good" tubing, high temperature rated stuff like silicone or CFlex, sometimes softens with heat and can collapse if used on a pump suction if the grainbed gets restrictive; the cheaper braided-type tubings won't collapse but aren't rated for that high of temperatures. To use the softer tubings, you can wrap thin SS wire from a mega home store around a length of dowel of a smaller OD than the tubing ID, and longer than the tubing length. Use a notch or hole drilled in the dowel to hold the one end, and start wraping it tightly in a spiral of about 3-4 wraps per inch to the length needed (typically the unsupported distance between the barbs), and hold the loose end against the dowel. Insert the dowel into the tubing so the spiral is in the desired position and release the end you are holding. It will spring out and form a nice flexible core insde the tubing that won't allow it to collapse! You might have to manuver it around a little to fit best, and have to nip off the bent end that was in the notch. Works great! Oogy Wawa! Nate Wahl Oak Harbor, OH - -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 266.11.15 - Release Date: 5/22/2005 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 08:09:55 -0400 From: Nathaniel Lansing <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: alcoholic taste >> I guess I mean a "hot" or "unmellowed" alcohol taste and smell that I notice in young beer(especially young high gravity beer). To me it is even more apparent in young cider. I also find that (as with that tripel) it ages out--though obviously with enough sugar it wouldn't (pure ethanol, for instance).<< >From your description it sounds a little like fusels. They have a more "hot" flavor than ethanol. The aging of the tripel would allow esterification of the fusels to nicer flavors. Ciders have a low flavor level and would allow the higher alcohols to be more apparent. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 10:33:00 -0500 From: Dylan Tack <dylan at io.com> Subject: Re: Perfect sterilization solution > In response to the Perfect Sterilization Solution post, I think this > is total BS. Not sure if it is BS or not, but it is not H2O2. http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/mee/2004-43mee.htm lists the active ingredients of Oculus Microcyn as: HYPOCHLOROUS ACID SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE Still not earth shaking... hypochlorous acid is just another name for tap water (HOCl, i.e. water + gaseous chlorine), and sodium hypochlorite is household bleach. -Dylan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 09:08:46 -0700 From: "Peed, John" <jpeed at elotouch.com> Subject: Pumping iodophor No, it's not a new workout video, it's yet another way to strip iodophor of its power. You know how heat and sunlight will cause an iodophor solution to lose its color (and its ability to sanitize)? Well, I've been pumping it through a convoluted counterflow chiller and, lo and behold, it turns clear in a matter of minutes. I replace with new iodophor solution every ten to fifteen minutes and it just turns clear again each time. Anyone know what's up with that? I'm using a BBB pump and convoluted copper chiller. Water is no more than 70 degrees and the whole assembly is in the shade. John Peed Oak Ridge, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 13:32:12 -0400 From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Faro? Anybody made "Faro"? It is apparently a Lambic that is sweetened with candi sugar? Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 14:08:34 -0400 From: Ricardo Cabeza <expunged at gmail.com> Subject: RE: Rice Hulls I use rice hulls for every mash in my RIMS system. I would strongly suggest experimentation to determine the ideal amount of rice hulls for your system. I would also suggest keeping the amount of rice hulls you use to a minimum. I have a formula I use to determine the minimum amount to use to avoid a stuck mash. For my system, the formula is: For a mash containing flaked barley, flaked oats, or flaked wheat / raw wheat: lbs. rice hulls = 0.03 X lbs. of malt (including wheat malt) + 0.25 X lbs. of above adjuncts For a mash with no 'sticky' adjuncts: lbs. rice hulls = 0.06 X lbs. of malt Like I said, I would experiment to see if your system requires more or less (my guess is less). I've never used more than 1 pound of rice hulls, and that was for a high OG beer with a grain bill consisting of 10% of those 'sticky' adjuncts. Oh, one more thing, I personally would not suggest a grain bill with more than 10% by weight of the above adjuncts. Ricardo Cabeza Return to table of contents
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