---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  RE:_bottle_labels (Tim Dennison )
  Re: label adhesive (Les Gehman)
  Re: Smell of Boiling Wort (Keith Thompson)
  label glue (Mark Carter)
  raspberry imperial stout (Mike Mattox ~)
  Iodine for starch conversion (adietz)
  Mead Quandries (S_KOZA1)
  brewing supply shops in NYC? (adietz)
  Wort straining Part 2 (Norm Hardy)
  Re: ginger [...] questions (Clay Phipps)
  Replies to various recent stuff... (Gary Benson)
  beer labels (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Sparge water levels ("Eric Roe")
  kegging advice (b15!img_pn!dvr)
  Cornelius keg question(s)... ("Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503  26-Aug-1990 1315")
  Submission to HBD - don't know if this is approp - feel free to kill (Greg Roody - 276-8682  26-Aug-1990 1733)
  New Seattle Brewery (Norm Hardy)
  blanket (Pete Soper)
  Slow fermentation (Paul Taylor [Falcon])
  removal from mail list (GS-11 Nicky Willis;CREPS;)
  paste (R. Bradley)


Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
Archives available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Aug 90 10:15:32 EDT
From: timd at sct60a.sunyct.edu (Tim Dennison )
Subject: RE:_bottle_labels


>  todd at nisc.sri.com writes :

>  Anyone discovered a nice, water soluable (therefore easy to remove) adhesive
>  for sticking your own labels on your homebrew filled bottles?

I use the labels made for labeling 9 track computer tapes.
They peel off easily when I am finished.  The only thing you
have to put up with is that they are curved ( to fit on a 
round tape ).


Tim Dennison
SUNY Institute of Technology
timd at sct60a.sunyct.edu

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Date: Fri, 24 Aug 90 9:27:57 MDT
From: Les Gehman <lpg at hpfilpg.hp.com>
Subject: Re: label adhesive
Full-Name: Les Gehman

In digest #481 Todd Koumrian asks about glue for easily removable labels.  I
use Dennison's Glue Stic which is mostly intended for use by kids.  It holds
the labels just fine and comes off in seconds under warm water.


Les Gehman
lpg%hpfilpg at hplabs.hp.com
hplabs!hpfilpg!lpg

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Date: Fri, 24 Aug 90 09:02:19 PDT
From: ket at EBay.Sun.COM (Keith Thompson)
Subject: Re: Smell of Boiling Wort


This is a very interesting topic.
  
When I first got into Homebrewing two years ago my wife expressed her 
opinion on the subject.  Here is basicly what she said:
Is it going to stink up the house everytime you make beer?
I responded with "I guess so, but I like the smell".  For the most part this
has not caused any marital problems between us.  
My wife just leaves the house for a couple of hours or stays as far from 
the kitchen as possible while I am boiling the wort.  The smell is only 
temporary and does go away in a short time but the mess I make
(and sometimes it is a serious one) takes physical effort on my part to 
clean up.  So my wife does not object to my making beer as long as when 
I am done there is no mess remaining in "HER" kitchen.
Since I am only barrowing it for the making of my beer.

I have found that if I open several windows before starting the boil
I can minimize the smell to some extent.  This does reduce the amount of 
displeasure expressed by my wife.  It does seem though that during the last
couple of batches she did not wrinkle here nose as much or even leave the 
house for any extended period of time.  In fact she even helped me with 
some of the work.  
I think she has either become accustomed to the smell or she has just given
up on trying to discourage me.  

So at least for now my wife has at least accepted the process of my beer
making.

Keith

 

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Date: Fri, 24 Aug 90 12:26:32 -0400
From: Mark Carter <carter at csmil.umich.edu>
Subject: label glue


In HD #481 Todd Koumrian writes:

>Anyone discovered a nice, water soluble (therefore easy to 
>remove) adhesive for sticking your own labels on your homebrew 
>filled bottles?  

I use a glue stick which claims to be non-toxic and for use by 
children. Because children put things in their mouths, I am pretty 
sure the stuff won't hurt me or the brew.  The sticks are cheap, 
easy, and the labels stick will and are removable with a soaking.  
Don't try to label a cold bottle at the last minute though, it is 
almost impossible to stick a label on a sweaty bottle.

- -----------------------------------------------------
Mark R. Carter (carter at csmil.umich.edu)
Cognitive Science and Machine Intelligence Laboratory
The University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI.

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Date: Fri, 24 Aug 90 9:42:31 PDT
From: mmattox at fws132.intel.com (Mike Mattox ~)
Subject: raspberry imperial stout


Has anyone tried the raspberry imperial stout recipe that appeared in
the summer issue of Zymurgy?  The description of the brew sounds simply
wonderful but I'm curious about the balance of the raspberry, chocolate,
and malt flavors.  Any input would be greatly appreciated.
                                                           Thanks,
                                                           Mike Mattox

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Date: 23 Aug 1990   8:46 EDT
From: hplabs!ames!gatech!bellcore.bellcore.com!hera!afd (adietz)
Subject: Iodine for starch conversion

If you can't find iodine in a form designed for homebrewing, water 
purification tablets used by campers work pretty well to test for
starch conversion during all-grain brewing.  They are primarily iodine in
a stable base. 

Use a potato as a control, and simply mix a sample of your mash and a few
drops of iodine solution (a tablet in a tablespoon of water) on a white plate.
Not an exacting process, but better than guessing.  We've found it works
well enough to "feel good" about the process.  I had the tablets left from 
previous campouts, but they can be found at camping supply stores for ~$4 
a bottle (50 tablets).

 -A Dietz
Bellcore, Morristown


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Date:     Fri, 24 Aug 90 13:01 EST
From: <S_KOZA1%UNHH.BITNET at MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Subject:  Mead Quandries

Hi All,
        Upon recently reading a mead recipe and its addendum posted here I'm
a bit perplexed. If you kill off your happily fermenting yeasts early by
poisoning them with EtOH how do they then carbonate the mead once you bottle?
Having had some experience in mead making I'd also like to add a few things
that were overlooked in the recipe. Like neither sweet nor highly alcoholic
meads and melomels therefore I usually use 1.25-1.50 lbs. honey per gal. of
mead depending on my fruit content. Since my S.G. are then significantly
lower I primarily use ale yeasts with excellent results. Also I heartily
(oops I mean 'hardily') recommend using some yeast nutrient to toughen up
those ectoderms.


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Date: 23 Aug 1990  12:57 EDT
From: hplabs!ames!gatech!bellcore.bellcore.com!hera!afd (adietz)
Subject: brewing supply shops in NYC?

Subject says is all.  Names, addresses, phone numbers?

 -A Dietz
Bellcore, Morristown


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Date: Wed, 22 Aug 90 08:08:00 PDT
From: hplabs!ames!gatech!polstra!norm (Norm Hardy)
Subject: Wort straining Part 2

In a previous entry I listed my method of getting the wort into the 
fermenter, i.e. by siphoning after cooling the boiling pot after a
whirlpool effect to centralize the hops.  Some items came to mind:

 (1) When siphoning from boiler to fermenter, the wort is aerated
     while falling from the top of the fermenter.  Works great.
 (2) But here is the problem not spelled out before:  this method
     works best for pelletized hops which centralize quite readily
     at the bottom of the pot.
 (3) With leaf hops (as I found out dramatically Sunday -
     Famous Last Words - it is not so easy.  I ended up having to
     pour the last gallon through a cone strainer through a funnel.
     I couldn't have done it without wife Karen around to assist.
 (4) Next time I will try using the sparge buckets:  pour from the pot
     and allow the clear wort to naturally fall from the spigot into
     the fermenter.  My main concern here is for sanitation because the
     cooled wort is more able to get contaminated.

Oh, concerning Rogue Red, my opinion of the stuff is that is used tooooo
much Munich malt and produces a sloppy flavor - very rough.  I couldn't
drink the sampler glass, instead I ordered a Hales Ale.

Norm Hardy



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Date: Wed, 22 Aug 90 12:05:07 -0700
From: hplabs!garth!phipps (Clay Phipps)
Subject: Re: ginger [...] questions

In Homebrew Digest #479 (August 22, 1990),
bonar at math.rutgers.edu (Doug Bonar) wrote:
>
>I was trying to make a gingered ale.  
>I was aiming for something [...] pretty gingery.
                                  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>Having no experience with making any beer with non malt/hops ingredients, 
>I didn't really know how to use the ginger.  [...]
>I bought a 5oz ginger root and planned to use about 1/2 of it.  

In Homebrew Digest #460 (July 16, 1990), I wrote "Re: Ginger Peeling":
<
<I tend to use 2--3 ounces of [...] ginger root per kettle-full.
<It seems that 2 oz. is about the right amount to keep the ginger noticeable,
<but difficult for nonbrewing friends to identify.  Its presence becomes 
<fairly identifiable with 3 oz., but I don't consider that to be "too much".
                                                                 ^^^^^^^^^^
You might be able to get away with using much more than 3 oz., but the result
might not have wide appeal, and you may have to drink it all yourself.    8-)
The methods used to prepare the ginger for brewing may make a BIG difference
in the effect produced by the amount of ginger used in a brew.

>The posted instructions didn't mention how to use the ginger, 
                         ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^                       ????
>so I sliced it thin (with a veggie peeler and a knife) 

In Homebrew Digest #459 (July 13, 1990), I wrote on "Ginger Peeling":
<<
<<I always peel my ginger, then smash it, before putting it into the boil.
           ^^^^                 ^^^^^                       ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Smashing the ginger releases its juices to a much greater extent than 
slicing or mincing do by themselves (try it the next time you cook with it).
After smashing ginger, I mince it coarsely, to provide more surface area 
for extraction of its flavor, but not so finely that it will sneak through
the postboil lautering (presently a kitchen strainer over a big funnel).

>and added as if it were an adjunct grain.  

In Homebrew Digest #460 (July 16, 1990), I wrote "Re: Ginger Peeling":
< 
<I introduce the ginger when the wort begins to boil, and leave it in 
<for the entire boil: more than 1 hour, but much less than 1_1/2 hours.
<I am only able to do partial boils: approx. 2_1/2 gals. in a 4-gal. 
<kettle, diluted after boiling to a little over 5 gal.  

>It smelled good on the knife and my hands, 
>but it wasn't making any ginger smell in the heating water.  
>So, I went ahead and added the whole root.  I think 
>I went wrong when I strained it out with the spent grains (at boiling).  
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Apparently so.  I don't recall Papazian's ginger brew ("Vagabond Ginger
Ale" ?) recipe providing the necessary details.  On my first attempt at 
using ginger, my method was suggested by years of Chinese cooking, and 
it seemed afterwards to be the correct one, i.e.: producing approximately 
what I expected.  One of my ginger brews even got a "not bad" rating from 
my older sister--high praise from someone who avoids alcohol, and is quite 
blunt about her dislike for beer.

>In any case, the beer [...] had no ginger flavor or aroma.  
>Any suggestions?

HBD 459 and 460 contain 2 submissions by me (I thought I had written 3),
which I excerpted and elaborated upon above, on using ginger in homebrewing, 
Were you on summer break when they appeared?

[The foregoing may or may not represent the position, if any, of my employer, ]
[ who is identified solely to allow the reader to account for personal biases.]
[Besides,    this was posted or e-mailed during the conventional "lunch hour".]
                                              
Clay Phipps                                
Intergraph APD, 2400#4 Geng Road, Palo Alto, CA 94303              415/852-2327
UseNet (Intergraph internal): ingr!apd!phipps
UseNet (external): {apple,pyramid,sri-unix}!garth!phipps        EcoNet: cphipps


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Date: Thu, 23 Aug 90 23:26:11 PDT
From: hplabs!ames!gatech!mailrus!uunet!tc.fluke.COM!inc (Gary Benson)
Subject: Replies to various recent stuff...


Wow! HBDig 478 was a biggy, wasn't it? I want to comment on a number of
things in there, but will try to keep my comments short:

John DeCarlo asks: 

    I have wondered about carrying a full carboy by the neck
    with one of those - any chance of snapping it off?

Yes, a very good chance! Mine broke just lifing it straight up by the neck.
It was full of bleach solution, and as usual, I lifted it with my right
hand, and whne it cleared the floor, I put my left hander under it to as a
balance point, and to carry some of thf wieght (maybe a third to a half).
When it broke, my left hand slammed into the piece I was left holding in my
right. I got a nasty gash in the palm as a result, and immediately sent out
a "Let's be Careful Out There" note to the Digest. I was not even using a
handle, which I believe would even more severly concentrate pressures in the
glass than my hand did. Investigating a replacement for my carboy, I learned:

    * Plastic water bottles are not "food grade", but a softer plastic,
      similar to that used for 2-liter soda bottles (PEP, polyethyl
      propylene). As such, they are permeable to oxygen, which is benefical
      to water, but not to beer.

    * Bottled water companies are going to plastic as a result of breakage
      and injury using glass.

    * Food grade carboys are much lighter and cheaper than glass, but are a
      bitch to clean.

As a result of my accident, I got the food grade plastic carboy. The memory
of big pieces of broken glass flying around still gives me the willies. My
daughter was in the next room, but could easily have been underfoot as she
often is. It could have meant her death.

THERMOMETER POLL:

I love my Fluke Digital Temperature Probe. It is switch-selectable between F
and C, and is easy and fast to calibrate. I plug it into my DVM, swish the
probe tip around in disinfectanct (vodka or some such), and lower it in. I
see BIG differences by stirring, because the probe responds so quickly to
temperature change and the meter responds so quickly to probe voltage
change. I can move the tip less than an inch and see 5 or more degrees F
difference. Moving it all around the brewpot can show up as much as 20
degrees difference.

Chris Shelton proposes:

    How about a HBD project to compile a homebrewing book? There are already
    a number of ``how to brew your first beer'' notes around, and plenty of
    `experts' :-).

    Perhaps tutorial chapters on appropriate topics, like Papazian's, then
    appendices for extract recipes, all-grain recipes, equipment &
    fabrication, and so on.  We could certainly publish a compendium of the
    best recipes from the HBD crew.  Anyone want to volunteer to do a
    chapter? pick your subjects! I'd be willing to typeset it with LaTeX...

YER ON!

I volunteer for the job of Editor. The Publisher (or the readership, maybe,
the real publisher) would decide what will be published, files would be
forward to me for spelling check, standard formatting, resolution of
terminology conflicts. I would return them to Chris for typestting.

As a first test project, may I suggest a glossary? It could become a part of
thef book anyway, and I think would be an excellent proving ground for the
concept of a whole book. If things seemed real unfeasible, then we'd at
least have a decent glossary!

I would also add to the proposal that the "papers" or "chapters" be fully
attributed to their authors, like the proceedings of a conference, rather
than just being a melange of information like an IEEE standard!


In FLAME ON mode, under the heading "small minds", Louis Clark says: 

    In HBD #477 Bob Gorman goes into a self-indulgent sermon on the glories
    of Grolsh bottles, the stupidity of capping, and the laziness of
    kegging.

Puh-lease! This forum has long been noted for its freedom from flames, and
I think that most of us would like to see it stay that way. If you want to
insult people, PLEASE use EMAIL! This Digest has been terrific, and I for
one would hate to see it stumble down the road to "Usenet-as-usual".
Yes, many of us are very opinionated, and yes, many of us propound
unreasonable ideas. However, it seems that ALL of us know that we're just
talking about BEER after all, and that we are all learning something every
day. Can we keep FLAMES out of here, please? If someone says something
really outrageous (I HATE the taste of HOPS in my MALT!), maybe you can send
your scathing rejoinder complete with wonderful witticisms via mail, but do
the Digest a favor, and just give us the facts. Thank you.

Cheryl Feinstein:

    Jalapeno beer sounds... interesting... I'm a hot-n-spicy nut myself..."

Me too, but it's really hard for me to imagine spicy hot and cool cool brew
in the same inhalation. Perhaps I'll add an "extract" to a sixer when I
bottle to try it out (see? yet another reason for bottling! experimentation!)
IN a brew, the effect of "hot" might not be much different than the
contribution of ginger. I can wait a while to try it, I guess...

NEWSFLASH! Washington State Legislature has recently passed the first state
law in the country requiring beer to be labeled with percentage of alcohol.
I have mixed emotions. On the one hand, it will be interesting to find out
how the old swill compares, but I also wonder if this is a ploy to help
beer drinkers stomach the anticipated NEW FEDERAL (read my lips) beer tax.
Or a way to later justify tacking on a STATE beer tax..."after all, we got
the % printed on the label, why should you object to paying a few extra
pennies per six pack?"


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Date: Fri, 24 Aug 90 12:01:23 mdt
From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: beer labels

I haven't tried this, but I would suggest rubber cement
in stead of water-soluble glue for labels.  If you put
the glue on the label, let it get tacky, and then stick
it on the bottle, I imagine that you could easily rub-off
any left over glue when you remove the label.  Rubber
cement does eventually dry out, but you should probably
drink your beer by then.

Al.


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Date:    Fri, 24 Aug 90 16:57 EDT
From: "Eric Roe" <KXR11 at PSUVM.PSU.EDU>
Subject: Sparge water levels


From: Pete Soper <soper at maxzilla.encore.com>
                      .
                      .
                      .
>  The reason it is recommended that the grain bed in the lauter
>tun stay covered with water at all times until the sparge water runs
>out is that at high temperatures the tannins in the grain are subject
>to oxidation if exposed to air...

Here is another reason.  If the water level is allowed to fall beneath
the level of the grains you may end up with a stuck run-off.  To re-
start the run-off you will have to return the water level to cover the
grains and then rake the grain with a knife.  If you are brewing with
other grains such as wheat or oats, it's even easier to end up with a
stuck run-off.  These grains are 'stickier' than barley  -- in any case,
it pays to watch your water level.

                                    Eric Roe
                                 <kxr11 at psuvm>

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Date: Fri, 24 Aug 90 17:37:56 -0400
From: ingr!b15!img_pn!dvr at uunet.UU.NET
Subject: kegging advice

Howdy homebrewers!

I've been quietly listening in on the Digest for a few months now
and enjoy the contents.  I've got a general type request for
those of you who enjoy kegging your beer: how do you do it? I'm
looking for good how-tos about brewing beer in kegs.  I need info
about the best kegs to buy, places to buy kegs cheaply, the
pitfalls (if any) to avoid when kegging, handy tips, clearly-
written directions to kegging, etc.  I'm sure that this topic has
been covered fairly extensively in previous Digests (I have saved
all of them back to #422), so all I ask of you kegger folks is to
direct me to some good references (whether in the Digest or in
books, magazine articles, etc.).  I seem to remember that there
are certain kegs on the market to avoid (Edme's?).  Your
collective advice on kegging would be very much appreciated!  I
can be reached at uunet!ingr!b15!img_pn!dvr if you would rather
send me something direct.  Thanks!  Doug Roberts, Intergraph
Corp.


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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 90 10:28:19 PDT
From: "Gary F. Mason - Image Systems - MKO2-2/K03 - 603884[DTN264]-1503 26-Aug-1990 1315" <mason at habs11.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Cornelius keg question(s)...

The first batch is in the keg!  It sure smells like brew.  Taste leaves
something to be desired (on the way to the keg), but I am hoping for some
mellowing, etc.  I ended up using some DME wort to condition, but I really 
want to do that artificially.  Any details about Burch's talk from the last
conference you would like to share?

Questions:

1. What is the popoff in the lid of the keg rated for?  I have heard 120 and
130 psi.  I guess it is less than the rating of the keg, but any real data?

2. I am conditioning using a Brewer's Warehouse relief valve.  There were no
instructions with it - does anyone know which setting (full in or full out) is
the high pressure end?  I would have thought full in (spring compression?), but
they say it is set at the max 10# when shipped, and that's about full out. I am
assuming that 10# is adequate for max pressure when conditioning - comments?

It took a while, but I am able to R, and DW is getting easier all the time.  It
will be a week or two before I can HAHB 8')

Cheers...Gary

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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 90 14:31:53 PDT
From: Greg Roody - 276-8682 26-Aug-1990 1733 <roody at whzguy.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Submission to HBD - don't know if this is approp - feel free to kill

Here is a Bread recipe which uses yeast sediment left over from primary
fermentation along with Sourdough starter.  The resulting bread has an 
interesting flavor blend of Hops, Sourdough, and Ale.  This is not a
beginners recipe (I rarely sift ingredients, and a lot of the time I go by
the "feel" of the dough for both moisture and kneading time) - unless you are
(1) adventurous, and (2) have some Homebrew to keep you from worrying over
the finished product.  {the instructions have been loosely stolen from
another recipe without (of course) permission, so my apologies in advance} 

Also, these instructions assume you are using a Kitchenaid/Hobart style 
mixer.  You will have to adjust the instructions if you do all of your 
kneading by hand.

WET SPONGE:

    1 Cup fermentation sediment (see note 1)
    1 Cup Sourdough Starter (see note 2)
    1 Cup Warm Water 
    2 Cups unbleached White Flour
    = Cup rye or stone ground whole wheat flour (optional)

BREAD DOUGH:

    1 Cup Pale Malt Grain
    = Cup Warm Water
    2 tsp Active Dry Yeast
    1 Tbsp sugar
    2 Tbsp powdered dry milk
    2= Cups Whole wheat bread flour
    = Cups Buckwheat Flour
    4-5 Cups unbleached white flour

{make the wet sponge, the night before baking}

1. In a large glass or ceramic bowl, combine the warm water, yeast sediment, 
and sourdough starter.  Vigorously whisk in the flour(s) to make a thick 
batter.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let stand for 12 to 16 hours, or 
overnight at room temp.  During that time, the batter will rise, become very 
bubbly and then start to recede; the alcoholic aroma at the height is 
impressive, but it won't bother the finished product.

{make the bread dough}

2. Toast the Pale Malt in a 3500 oven for 15 minutes.  Crush the grains and 
boil in about two cups water until the grain is soft but not mushy.  Drain 
off water (or throw into a wort) and allow to cool.

3. In a small cup, stir together the water and yeast (along with a small 
amount of sugar or honey), until the granules dissolve; let stand 5 mins until 
yeast froths.  Using a wooden spoon, stir the yeast mixture, bread flour, 
buckwheat, milk and sugar into the wet sponge to make a thick batter.  Stir
in salt (2 or 3 tsp) at this point if you use it (I forgot to add it, silly
me - but the bread was fine anyway).  Add the Pale Malt grains.  Pour this 
sticky gloop into the mixer and attach the paddle.  Add enough of the white 
flour gradually, until the dough starts to pull away from the side of the 
bowl.  {Change to the dough hook} Slowly add enough of the remaining flour in 
small amounts to make a soft ball of dough that revolves around the dough 
hook (note, dough with a significant amount of whole grain flour will take up 
water more slowly - so be careful not add too much flour).  Knead at a
medium slow speed for about ten minutes; turn dough out onto a floured board
and finish kneading by hand, adding flour or water as necessary to achieve
the proper moisture content.  This dough will be slightly sticky. 

4. Form Dough into a ball, cover for rising (if using a bowl, remember to oil 
 - I just cover the ball with a large upside down bowl).  Let the dough rise 
until almost tripled in volume (1 hour in 900 summer, and 2-3 in cooler 
temps).  You can check it by running two fingers under warm water and then 
gently poking them into the dough about = inch, in the indents remain, it is 
just right, if the indents puff out again, not long enough, if the ball 
collapses - woops (you have over risen the dough, it will end up thick 
crusted, poor in volume, and course and crumbly), time for a Homebrew.

5. Deflate the large air bubbles with your fingers, cut in half and form into 
two balls.  Cover and let rest 20 mins.

6. Shape the dough (I'll leave this up to you, I did two large French loaves 
but you can also use pans or other shapes) and let rise again for 45 - 90 
mins.  When gently pressed with a fingertip, the indentation will return 
slowly.

7. Preheat oven to 4500 enough ahead of time to allow oven to stabilize.  I 
usually bake this type of recipe on stones which are on the lowest rack.  I 
also put a pan on the top rack and pour water into it just as the bread goes 
in - creates a steam bath and gives the crust a nice crisp quality.  You 
could also use an egg wash if you wanted a shinier glaze.

8. Bake 30 - 40 minutes depending on the shape/size of your loaves.  Cool as 
usual.  

enjoy........

/greg

NOTE 1:

    I started with the sediment from a heavily hopped porter (with yeast 
which was repitched from a heavily hopped IPA), so this may explain why the
bread had such a pleasantly hoppy flavor.  It also had a deep brown color
which was passed along to the bread; the final appearance was light
chocolate. 

    Also, it should go without saying that you should vigorously shake/swirl
the fermenter to make a uniform slurry of yeast (mostly), trub, and beer.

NOTE 2:

    I am using a batch of sourdough starter that is about 3 years old, and 
has a fairly strong sourdough taste.  If you are using a new starter, or one 
out of a kit, you may want to use more than the one cup so the taste will come 
through.



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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 90 13:02:46 PDT
From: hplabs!polstra!norm (Norm Hardy)
Subject: New Seattle Brewery

Maritime Pacific Brewing Company, a small microbrewery located in the
Ballard area of Seattle, will be shipping kegs of "Flagship Red Ale"
shortly after Labor Day.

Larry Rock is the brewer.  Formerly of Noggins Brewpub, he had a free
hand in designing or ordering the equipment HE wanted.  Using a similar
system as Noggins (British style), Larry has custom created his ideal
brewery.

Besides separate Mash/Sparge and Boiler vessels, there are 2 fermenters
and eight conditioning tanks.  There is room for one more fermenter and
6-8 more conditioners.  Each brew is in the 300 gallon range.

Flagship ale is an alt style beer using Wyeast German ale yeast, klages,
wheat, and a few specialty malts to yield a reddish-brown color.  Hops 
used are Perle, Hallertuaer, and Saaz.  Conditioning is 2-3 weeks.

Larry Rock has brewed three batches, and all three will be sold.  After
tasting some from the conditioner on Saturday I can attest to the quality
of the beer:  it has a nice malty feel with medium hop bite.  It is 
extremely drinkable and beckons for a second glass.  It does remind me alot
of the Alt beers I had in Duesseldorf this July.  Larry says the yeast 
continues to ferment well into the 40 degree range.  Original gravity is
about 1.050, terminal gravity about 1.015.

A "Navigator Dark" dunkel weissbock is due out in November as the winter
season specialty.

There are several pubs that will carry Flagship Red Ale, including
The Red Door Ale House, Coopers, LaBoheme, and The Unicorn (cask conditioned).

Larry is a member of the Brews Brothers of Seattle.  No, I am not connected
with the brewery, but I do wish Larry and the brewery well.

Norm Hardy



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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 90 20:01:58 EDT
From: Pete Soper <soper at maxzilla.encore.com>
Subject: blanket

  I tried your brewpot blanket idea of putting newspapers around my boil pot 
(Bruheat actually) this morning.  It worked very well. In fact it worked so 
well that I reduced my wort volume from 6.25 gallons to 5.6 gallons in the
first 30 minutes of boiling. I had to cover the pot almost all the way with a 
lid and cut the heat back quite a bit for the rest of the boil to keep from 
loosing too much volume.  What a difference this made! It also saved about 20 
minutes time getting the boil started. Thanks again for a simple and wonderful
idea!

 -Pete Soper

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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 90 17:22:47 +1000
From: s882080 at minyos.xx.rmit.OZ.AU (Paul Taylor [Falcon])
Subject: Slow fermentation

I made my first batch of mead (using clover honey) in March, and after a very
vigorous few weeks of fermentation, the fermentation had virtually ceased.
I bottled it in July, as nothing seems to be happening with the mead, even 
though it was still a bit cloudy (no sediment had dropped in the storage 
bottle).  After a couple of weeks, in the bottles, a pile of sediment formed
on the bottom of the bottles, and tiny bubbles were visible rising to the top.
These were ignored until the corks started to lift ...  Deciding the bottles
were worth more than the corks, I transferred the mead back into the storage 
bottle (it was REALLY fizzy), and after a few days things settled down again. 

Q:  Is this normal behaviour for mead (I heard it was pretty slow)?
I don't think any further fermentation can occur - should I use finings to 
clear the mead (if so, what type)?  The S.G. reading is around 1.10 or so -
should I use a wine stabilizer (potassium sorbate solution) to kill the
remaining yeast (if any)?

I have another batch of Apricot-Raisin wine which has completed fermentation
(S.G. reading of 1.00), but is also a bit cloudy.  I used a "general purpose"
wine yeast for both as specified by the recipe.

Thanks in advance ...

+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|   Paul Taylor [Falcon]            Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology, |
| s882080 at minyos.xx.rmit.OZ.AU         Victoria University of Technology,    |
|                                             Melbourne, Australia.          |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|    "I'm one of many, I speak for the rest, but I don't understand ..."     |
|                          Genesis: "Man of Our Times"                       |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+

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Date: Mon Aug 27 07:50:30 1990
From: nwillis at ocdis01.af.mil (GS-11 Nicky Willis;CREPS;)
Subject: removal from mail list

Please remove my name from the subscription list. Thanks
 -Nick "nwillis at ocdis01.af.mil"

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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 90 11:43:19 CDT
From: bradley at dehn.math.nwu.edu (R. Bradley)
Subject: paste

In Digest 481, Todd Koumrian asks:

> Anyone discovered a nice, water soluable adhesive
> for sticking your own labels on your homebrew filled bottles?

Yup.  The cheapest simplest glue in the world is made by combining
white flour with water.  It'll hold paper to glass, and dissolve
in seconds under running water.

Cheers,

Rob Bradley
(bradley at math.nwu.edu)

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #482, 08/27/90
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