HOMEBREW Digest #4826 Thu 18 August 2005

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  Yeast culture from Erdinger Weissbier ("Sasha von_Rottweil")
  Beer podcasts (Stephen George)
  Light Absorption in Beer (Tony Barnsley)
  Where oh where did my efficiency go? ("Michael Eyre")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 08:28:31 +0000 From: "Sasha von_Rottweil" <sasharina at hotmail.com> Subject: Yeast culture from Erdinger Weissbier > Re: Yeast culture from Erdinger Weissbier Hi, Erdinger uses a lager yeast in the bottle. If you have access to Erdinger then maybe you can get some other German Weizens that do have a true weizen yeast. The following breweries should have a proper weizen yeast in the bottle: Maisel's Weisse Schneider Weisse and Aventinus (used to be bottle fermented in the past at least) Riedenburger Weisse Pinkus Weizen (a bio-beer) Flensburger Weizen Prinzregent Luitpold Weissbier (hell) Prost, Marty Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 10:07:11 +0100 From: Stephen George <sageorge at gmail.com> Subject: Beer podcasts Alexandre Enkerli posted about beer-related podcasts, with the comment "some of them are rather interesting." Would anyone care to be more discriminating in tackling that list? I listened to a couple and found them a complete waste of time - one from some guy drinking Harp in a bar in Muncie, IN, and one from some Aussie homebrewers. I don't want indie music with my beercasts. If there are any that are really useful, I'd be keen to add them to my subscriptions. I currently listen to Grape Radio and Winemaking Radio, both of which do live up to expectations. There are also occasionally some good beer and brewing comments on Eat Feed, which seems to have gone into hiatus. Alexandre made the comment about people making the transition from homebrewing to craft brewing. If you listen to the winecasts, you'll find the same trend. Hey, you've got to start somewhere... Cheers, Stephen George London (but dreaming of Bamburg) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 14:19:35 +0100 From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley at blackpool.gov.uk> Subject: Light Absorption in Beer Hi all, I am looking at several ways to control the rate at which wort is pumped from my under back back to the mash tun and off to the boiler. The rate of pumping should depend on the level of wort in the under back (which is a cut down corny keg). I am happy having two rates, one when the wort level is low which allows the under back to fill, and fast when the wort level rises above a set point which empties the under back until the low level is reached. Ideally it should have no moving parts which cuts out float switches. One idea I have had is to have a LED at the top of the under back with two light sensitive resistors at the high and low points (All suitably encapsulated). These would act as triggers to a logic circuit that would switch high / low depending on the level. What I am wondering is what colour of LED would be best to use? I'm thinking Blue, but what I really want is the one that gives light that is absorbed most by beer. Anyone any ideas? What I want to do is to use the logic circuits to drive two latching relays that switch a different resistance value in and out of a circuit that drive my pump motor. This circuit works fine, but currently has a variable resistor to control the pump speed. What I thought I could do is have two variable resistors so that I can fine tune high speed and low speed as required. The other thought is light absorption has to be dependant on beer style; pilsners for example having a different absorption spectrum compared to Imperial stout, so I should also have the sensitivity of the detectors adjustable as well. On the other hand I could just eyeball it as I do now :) Regards le Man ( The Brewer Formerly Known As Aleman ) Mashing in Blackpool, Lancashire, UK Email Disclaimer is: http://www.blackpool.gov.uk/EmailDisclaimer/ This message has been scanned by F-Secure Anti-Virus for Microsoft Exchange as part of the Council's e-mail and internet policy. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 08:46:58 -0700 From: "Michael Eyre" <meyre at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Where oh where did my efficiency go? Got a question for you all that I can't quite wrap my head around... My friend and I do 10 gallon batches of allgrain beer, of various types. We split the batch 50/50 and call it OK about once or twice a month. So we never really have any problems until one of us invents one... and this is how our latest problem came about. My pal get's this nifty program called Promash, and plugs in our last beer to it's inner workings and determines that or efficiency is extremely low.. so he says. Something on the order of 56-58% efficient. I should mention that this is a 3 tier gravity feed 1/2 barrel keg setup, that we occasionally use a cooler to mash in instead of the keg, depending on our whims of that session. We batch sparge as well, using two sparges. Our last beer that he plugged in was an American style wheat with 60% malt 40% wheat, and the first runnings were about 1.060 and the second sparge was about 1.040. We got an average of 1.053, which was right where we wanted to be on a 12 gallon pre-boil pull. Later boiled down to 11 gallons and split two ways. Excellent! Anyway, when he starts talking about rotten efficiency a coupe days ago, which is a few weeks after the brew, I'm wondering... is our system just bad? Does it matter if it is, cause it's still cheap to run. But my main question is... what would have happened if we had done a third sparge, would it have some out somewhere neat 1.020, which is still viable to use, properly boiled down in the kettle, and is THAT where the lost efficency went? Another question is, why wasn't the second sparge 1.060 as well, since isn't that the idea of the batch sparge, to get one big run of evenly mixed wort/sugar? Hell, I don't know the maximum solubility of water for sugar/wort... so I guess that's what I'm having difficulties with.. why doesn't all the sugar come out of the grain into the second sparge, did we not wait long enough, stir long enough, etc. to make the second sparge work? We stirred and waited about 10 minutes before we opened the drain for the second run. I think I'm babbling now, so I'll end this, but I think I got my idea across... I guess I'm just wondering how to get the remaining stuff out of the grain that we apparently missed. Mike Return to table of contents
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