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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  Google Map HBD (Dan)
  Google map for HBD (bob.devine)
  Re: Boiling pot spigot (Nate & Brenda Wahl)
  Evaporation rate ("A.J deLange")
  re: Evaporation rates ("Michael Owings")
  Aerating and pitching (Jesse Stricker)
  Re: Evaporation rates (Dylan Tack)
  RE: Attaching a spigot to the boiling pot. (Tony Brown)
  Re: Immersion chiller stirring and trub mixing? (Chuck Doucette)
  MCAB Needs You ("David Houseman")
  RE: Google map ("Brian Lundeen")


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Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:03:52 -0700
From: Dan <dan at boisecenter.net>
Subject: Google Map HBD

Hello all,
    My first post, and my first contribution :

    http://www.danmorgan.net/hbd

Let me know what you think.


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Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 04:20:29 +0000
From: bob.devine at att.net
Subject: Google map for HBD

What a great community of folks.

No sooner than I suggest the idea of using Google's map
tools, than not one but two maps are available.

Because the map at http://www.nhbrewers.com/mapbeer.html
is already for clubs and such, I suggest that it be
kept that way and separtate from a map of people.

For homebewers, I suggest that Nathan's creation at
http://www.frappr.com/hbd
be for homebrewers.  I've just tried it out, and it
is a snap to add your info.

Would the esteemed janitors for HBD approve of 2 maps?
Perhaps the hbd.org site can add links to them
and keep the people / places maps discrete?

Bob Devine
(traveling now, not even close to homebase of Riverton, UT)


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Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 06:01:12 -0500
From: Nate & Brenda Wahl <cruiser at coastalwave.net>
Subject: Re: Boiling pot spigot

In HBD at 4878 Eric asks about welding a spigot on is boil pot, swirling 
with the immersion chiller, and spigot arrangement.  Here's what I've 
used with modest success.

Keep the fitting as low as you can; having to 'lift' the wort up first 
via siphon increases the probability that you'll get an air bubble to 
block the flow as the level lowers.  A full coupling, with threads on 
both ends, welded on gives you the option to screw in whatever 
fittings/valves you need inside and out.  I have a close elbow on the 
inside, which goes down a short ways to a screened-in Tee which sits 
right in the corner of the bottom dome.

When I agitate by moving the immersion coil, I do so as to whirlpool the 
wort to promote a cone of trub near the middle of the pot.  I say near 
the middle, because as it is cooling I keep the pot tipped back away 
from the outlet, so the cone forms near the back.  When cooled 
sufficiently it settles that way undistrubed for a short time while 
getting ready to fill the fermenter(s).

When it comes time to rack, I gently tip and keep the kettle leaning 
forward a bit; the trub seems to stay where it is, and I can get all but 
about a pint out of the bottom.  The only time I ever had it stick was 
when all pellet hops were used, so now I make sure that at least 1 ounce 
or so are leaf in the recipies.

Another thing that helps get things cool quicker is genlty spraying the 
kettle outside occasionally, particularly the top and bottom skirts and 
rounded bottom itself, with a fine mist of water.  (Multi-function hose 
nozzles are great!)  The trub on the bottom seems to hold in a lot of 
heat down there, somewhat insulating the metal from the wort, so it 
cools very slowly otherwise.  The skirts are thick and hold a lot of heat.

I hope these ideas can help!
Cheers,
Nate Wahl
Oak Harbor, OH
64.3, 145.8, the driveway on the left.

PS, my wife and I are having our annual-but-delayed Halloween beer 
gathering this Saturday, if anybody on the list nearby that wants to 
come over and meet some fellow homebrewers, please drop me a line and 
we'll hook up!



- -- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.12.7/155 - Release Date: 11/1/2005



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Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 13:47:41 +0000
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Evaporation rate

Evaporation rate as a percentage is realative to the initial volume. The 
rate of evaporation is roughly constant. I suppose you could argue that 
as the liquid level recedes further down into the kettle there is less 
access to drafts to carry moisture away but for all practical purposes 
the rate stays constant (especially if you add makeup water as the boil 
progresses). Thus if you have 10 gallons of wort and lose at a rate of 1 
gallon per hour that is 10% per hour at the outset, 10.526%/hr after 30 
minutes, 11.111%/hr at the end of the first hour and so on. While all 
these are close enough to 10% for government work the important thing is 
that to calculate makeup water or final volume after the boil it is the 
actual approximately constant loss rate that you want to use i.e. the 
percentage of the initial volume.


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Date: Wed,  2 Nov 2005 08:27:01 -0600 (CST)
From: "Michael Owings" <mikey at swampgas.com>
Subject: re: Evaporation rates

In HBD 4878 Francisco asks about boil off rate expressed as a percentage
versus a fixed volume per hour:

As far as I can tell, the volume boiled off is constant, not a
percentage. Some HB brewing texts DO talk about boil-off as a
percentage/hour, but I believe this is an error. I use promash as well,
and always use the gal/hour setting in my calcs.


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Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 07:19:22 -0800
From: Jesse Stricker <stricker at bioeng.ucsd.edu>
Subject: Aerating and pitching


Carl Sherman Jr. writes:
	
> I am using an aquarium pump and stone to aerate my wort in the fermentor.  I
> have read that you must wait for the foam to subside before pitching the
> yeast, but can not find any reasoning for this.  During aeration, I have to
> stop before the foam comes out the top of the carboy.  I have waited for the
> foam to subside, but this takes quite a while, and I am afraid of
> contaminating the wort.

	For what it's worth, I've been aerating with the same setup you 
describe for a couple of years, and I've pitched the yeast before 
aeration, during aeration, immediately after aeration, and, when I 
forgot, after the foam subsided.  I didn't notice any difference, 
although I suppose there might have been some subtle effect.  I usually 
pitch yeast into siphoned wort, then aerate it until it's got a nice 
thick foam head on top.  I can't think of any reason not to do this.  If 
you pitch the yeast right onto the foam, some probably won't make it 
through, but most of it will.

	Jesse (San Diego, CA)


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Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 09:19:49 -0600
From: Dylan Tack <dylan at io.com>
Subject: Re: Evaporation rates

> From: Francisco Jones <frandog at earthlink.net>
> Subject: Evaporation rates
>
> In other words, as the volume in the boil pot decreases, with the
> percent fixed, less water is lost in the next time increment than in
> the previous time increment.  So boil-off is quadratic, or
> logarithmic, or whatever?  Not linear?
>

I believe the evaporation rate is linear.  For every unit of heat that
is put into the wort, a constant quantity of water will change to
steam.  This is known as the heat of vaporization.  For water, it is
539 calories per gram.

Interestingly, you can use the Google calculator to estimate
evaporation rate:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=1+gram+%2F+539+calories+*+1000
0+BTU+%2F+1+hour+in+kg%2Fhour&btnG=Search
or:
http://tinyurl.com/bgbvc

This is, of course, a very loose approximation because in most
situations it's very difficult to know how much energy is going into
your boil kettle, vs. how much is being lost due to various
inefficiencies.  Still, it is illustrative of what's happening.

 -Dylan




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Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 15:50:26 -0500
From: Tony Brown <speleobopper at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: Attaching a spigot to the boiling pot.

The spigot on my brew kettle is mounted pretty close to the bottom
(about 1 inch away).  When I first turn it on to transfer to my
carboys the trub starts to run through but then pretty quickly the
wort runs clear.  I let it drain until I see it turn cloudy again
meaning that almost all of the wort has been transferred.  The trub
however settles to the bottom of the kettle after the hot break.  The
wort escapes in the middle of the transfer process.

I recommend Zymurgy magazine.



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Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 12:52:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Immersion chiller stirring and trub mixing?

Randy Sanders writes:

 ...pump the wort through the chiller itself.  Place
the chiller
in a bucket of ice water....adding rock salt to the
ice water...and simply stirring the ice
water while the wort is flowing in the coils...

Thanks for the tip Randy! I've been using just that
type of wort chiller since I started brewing with 
extract 4 1/2 years ago. Now that I've switched to an
all grain set up and doubled my batch size, I've made
one change to my chiller - I added a plastic spigot so
I could drain some water and add more ice. I have been
wondering lately how I could obtain lower temps with
it. You have given me the answer. I need to get about
10 additional degrees F lower, which the rock salt
should give me.

Thanks again.

Chuck Doucette
O'Fallon, IL (Just across the Big Muddy from you)


	
		


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Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 17:22:02 -0500
From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net>
Subject: MCAB Needs You

The Seventh MCAB has come and gone this year.  While it was actually a
successful competition it was poorly supported in the number of entries
received.   MCAB isn't discussed on the various forums or in the halls like
it once was.  The creative force behind the MCAB, Louis Bonham, has become
too busy in his professional life to remain it's driving force.  We all
appreciate what Louis has done for MCAB and homebrewing but now we need to
look forward to how we'll continue MCAB into the future.

It is November already and no one has stepped forward to run MCAB for 2006.
In discussions with a number of those involved with MCAB over the years, we
feel that for MCAB to continue some fundamental changes are needed.  Some of
the MCABs have been very successful events in addition to competitions.
Some of these have lost money for their organizers.  This year we did charge
a nominal entry fee and about broke even, including generous support from
the BJCP.  But MCAB now needs a new driving force, someone who will nurture
MCAB each year.  We feel that MCAB likely needs to settle to a single host
region/club for long term stability in an area accessible to a sufficient
judge pool and in close proximity to the MCAB leader.  By charging a nominal
entry fee, having the location and approximate date for the MCAB fixed and
with consistent leadership, this competition can flourish.

If you are a leader in a region with a good judge pool and part of a club
that would like to Adopt the MCAB as their yearly project please speak up.
MCAB is best held in the February timeframe in order to best reflect the
qualifying events from the prior year.   It's getting late so we'd like to
get something organized now for 2006.

David Houseman
MCAB Organizing Committee



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Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 17:00:52 -0600
From: "Brian Lundeen" <blundeen at mts.net>
Subject: RE: Google map


> Date: 01 Nov 2005 01:02:32 -0500
> From: nathanw at MIT.EDU (Nathan J. Williams)
> Subject: Re: Google map for HBD readers?
> 
> 
> If anyone wants to add themselves, I've created a Frappr map 
> under the group name "hbd".
> 
> http://www.frappr.com/hbd
> 

OK, I know they just plunk the marker down somewhere near the city centre,
but it's a little creepy that it appeared just a couple of blocks from where
I spent the first 12 years of my life.

Cheers
Brian, in Winnipeg 



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