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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  Homebrewer's Google Map (Rick) Theiner <rickdude@tds.net>
  trub separation/chilling (Aaron Martin Linder)
  Online Drugs - save up to 80% ("Sung Emery")
  brine solution chilling ("eric")


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Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 8:58:41 -0600
From: Eric (Rick) Theiner <rickdude at tds.net>
Subject: Homebrewer's Google Map

I like Dan's (http://www.danmorgan.net/hbd), but I have one
issue. I'm a supplier, but I'm also a homebrewer; is there a 
way to differentiate guys like me, Dan Listermann, Jack 
Schmidling, Dominick Venezia, etc. from folks like Toledo 
Metal Spinning, LD Carlson, and so on...?

My reasoning is that I'd be interested in folks looking me up
if they're in the neighborhood, but I also don't want to be 
accused of not being forthright regarding my stake in the 
brewing community.

Thanks,

Rick Theiner
LOGIC, Inc.




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Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 10:28:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Martin Linder <lindera at umich.edu>
Subject: trub separation/chilling

WRT the chilling/siphoning/spigot thread, I tried several things over 
several brews to get the best results and so far I am by far the most 
pleased with the following.

I have a 10 gallon brew pot and when I chill the wort with my immersion 
chiller I both swirl the wort chiller around to stir up the wort and use a 
spoon to stir around the wort if my arm gets tired.  It is obviously much 
faster than just putting it in there and much less wasteful of water.

When it is sufficiently cooled I stir the wort to get a very strong vortex 
going and stick my siphon tool into the pot and tilt the pot back by 
putting something under the front of the pot.  I then siphon out the wort 
after 10-15 minutes.  The particulates always settle nicely in 10-15 
minutes even after having stirred the wort vigorously while chilling.

The key is the siphon tool.  It is just a copper racking cane with a piece 
of steel mesh hose attached to the end.  Get a washing machine hose and 
take out the middle plastic part, keep the steel mesh.  Put one end of the 
mesh over the copper tube end and make a loop with the mesh that is about 
2-3 inches in diameter, maybe 8-10 inches in circumference, and attach the 
other end to the side of the copper tubing.  I both attach the loose end 
and secure the open end over the copper tube with a hose clamp.  Make sure 
that you use whole hops, and they will filter the trub perfectly without 
having to drill any holes in your pot.  It also cuts back on the amount of 
wort wasted.  I went from siphoning off of the top of the trub and losing 
a gallon of wort to siphoning from underneath the trub with whole hops and 
the siphon tool and losing only a pint or so.

Aaron Linder
Ann Arbor, MI


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Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 18:28:02 -0600
From: "Sung Emery" <sungemery_41 at bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Online Drugs - save up to 80%

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Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 18:49:39 -0700
From: "eric" <zeee1 at nebonet.com>
Subject: brine solution chilling

Hello all

 When adding salt to your chiller ice water, keep in mind that the ice
itself has to be low enough to get the brine solution to lower. If the ice
is only say 30 F, then adding all the salt you want will still only get down
to 30 at the lowest. If you add salt later, but the ice has all reached
melting temp, instead of just "melting at the surface", adding salt wont
help.
 I dont know what a promash is, but if you dont add makeup water and just
boil for an amount of time, with a fixed heat input, there will usually be a
small increase in the amount of water boiled off per unit time, as the water
level goes down, because there will be more heat going to boiling the water,
instead of heat lost through the pot (heat loss to air before water reaches
boiling temp goes down, because there is now less pot surface area being
heated by water, which radiates/convection with the air).
 Similar to the propane question, a bigger tank at the same temp will give
off more gas longer than a small tank, external factors being equal, because
it takes longer for more liquid to lose enough heat to get below its boiling
point. Take 2 full propane tanks outside on a cold day, say -20 F, and if
the CFM output of each tank is the same, the larger one will give off vapor
longer, because it takes longer for the increased amount of liquid to cool.
Ice will form on the tank, helping to insulate the cooling liquid from the
relative heat of the air. The propane will no longer be able to pick up heat
from the air fast enough to keep the liquid propane boiling, and no more
bbqing on a really cold day.
  Which brings me to another question. Though the difference is small, does
boiling hops at altitude, and its slight reduction in boiling temps, need to
be compensated for by boiling wort longer? Will beer taste noticeably
different if made on a bad low pressure stormy day than on a high pressure
nice day? Or is the physical action of boiling mainly whats needed for
mixing the hop resins? If a person were to vacuum boil (dry freeze?) a batch
of wort, would beer be the end result? Adding make up water, of course.
Yes, I make things harder than they are.

 Just whats going through my head right now, and I havent even had a beer
yet. Getting one now though.

Eric
Deweyville, UT



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