HOMEBREW Digest #4880 Thu 03 November 2005

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  Homebrewer's Google Map (Rick) Theiner <rickdude@tds.net>
  trub separation/chilling (Aaron Martin Linder)
  Online Drugs - save up to 80% ("Sung Emery")
  brine solution chilling ("eric")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 8:58:41 -0600 From: Eric (Rick) Theiner <rickdude at tds.net> Subject: Homebrewer's Google Map I like Dan's (http://www.danmorgan.net/hbd), but I have one issue. I'm a supplier, but I'm also a homebrewer; is there a way to differentiate guys like me, Dan Listermann, Jack Schmidling, Dominick Venezia, etc. from folks like Toledo Metal Spinning, LD Carlson, and so on...? My reasoning is that I'd be interested in folks looking me up if they're in the neighborhood, but I also don't want to be accused of not being forthright regarding my stake in the brewing community. Thanks, Rick Theiner LOGIC, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 10:28:05 -0500 (EST) From: Aaron Martin Linder <lindera at umich.edu> Subject: trub separation/chilling WRT the chilling/siphoning/spigot thread, I tried several things over several brews to get the best results and so far I am by far the most pleased with the following. I have a 10 gallon brew pot and when I chill the wort with my immersion chiller I both swirl the wort chiller around to stir up the wort and use a spoon to stir around the wort if my arm gets tired. It is obviously much faster than just putting it in there and much less wasteful of water. When it is sufficiently cooled I stir the wort to get a very strong vortex going and stick my siphon tool into the pot and tilt the pot back by putting something under the front of the pot. I then siphon out the wort after 10-15 minutes. The particulates always settle nicely in 10-15 minutes even after having stirred the wort vigorously while chilling. The key is the siphon tool. It is just a copper racking cane with a piece of steel mesh hose attached to the end. Get a washing machine hose and take out the middle plastic part, keep the steel mesh. Put one end of the mesh over the copper tube end and make a loop with the mesh that is about 2-3 inches in diameter, maybe 8-10 inches in circumference, and attach the other end to the side of the copper tubing. I both attach the loose end and secure the open end over the copper tube with a hose clamp. Make sure that you use whole hops, and they will filter the trub perfectly without having to drill any holes in your pot. It also cuts back on the amount of wort wasted. I went from siphoning off of the top of the trub and losing a gallon of wort to siphoning from underneath the trub with whole hops and the siphon tool and losing only a pint or so. Aaron Linder Ann Arbor, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 18:28:02 -0600 From: "Sung Emery" <sungemery_41 at bc.sympatico.ca> Subject: Online Drugs - save up to 80% Online pharmacy - Visit our online store and save. Save up to 80% compared to normal rates. All popular drugs are available! - World wide shipping - No Doctor Visits - No Prescriptions - Next Day Priority Shipping - Discreet Packaging - Buy in Bulk and Save! We make it easier and faster than ever to get the prescriptions you need. Go here: http://texh.com/pha/phrm/index.html Simply Rx is your convenient, safe and private online source for FDA approved pharmacy prescriptions. We sell brand-name and exact generic equivalents of US FDA approved prescription drugs through our fully-licensed overseas pharmacy. Upon approval of your medical information, a licensed physician will issue a free prescription which can be filled and shipped to you in one business day. No thanks: http://texh.com/z.php Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 18:49:39 -0700 From: "eric" <zeee1 at nebonet.com> Subject: brine solution chilling Hello all When adding salt to your chiller ice water, keep in mind that the ice itself has to be low enough to get the brine solution to lower. If the ice is only say 30 F, then adding all the salt you want will still only get down to 30 at the lowest. If you add salt later, but the ice has all reached melting temp, instead of just "melting at the surface", adding salt wont help. I dont know what a promash is, but if you dont add makeup water and just boil for an amount of time, with a fixed heat input, there will usually be a small increase in the amount of water boiled off per unit time, as the water level goes down, because there will be more heat going to boiling the water, instead of heat lost through the pot (heat loss to air before water reaches boiling temp goes down, because there is now less pot surface area being heated by water, which radiates/convection with the air). Similar to the propane question, a bigger tank at the same temp will give off more gas longer than a small tank, external factors being equal, because it takes longer for more liquid to lose enough heat to get below its boiling point. Take 2 full propane tanks outside on a cold day, say -20 F, and if the CFM output of each tank is the same, the larger one will give off vapor longer, because it takes longer for the increased amount of liquid to cool. Ice will form on the tank, helping to insulate the cooling liquid from the relative heat of the air. The propane will no longer be able to pick up heat from the air fast enough to keep the liquid propane boiling, and no more bbqing on a really cold day. Which brings me to another question. Though the difference is small, does boiling hops at altitude, and its slight reduction in boiling temps, need to be compensated for by boiling wort longer? Will beer taste noticeably different if made on a bad low pressure stormy day than on a high pressure nice day? Or is the physical action of boiling mainly whats needed for mixing the hop resins? If a person were to vacuum boil (dry freeze?) a batch of wort, would beer be the end result? Adding make up water, of course. Yes, I make things harder than they are. Just whats going through my head right now, and I havent even had a beer yet. Getting one now though. Eric Deweyville, UT Return to table of contents
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