HOMEBREW Digest #4966 Sun 05 March 2006


[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
       THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: 

          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
Visit http://www.northernbrewer.com  to show your appreciation!
               Or call them at 1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********


Contents:
  Re:  More well water analysis (Kevin Brown)
  Brew shops in MI (Thom Cannell)
  wine vs beer ("Peter A. Ensminger")
  Re: More well water analysis (stencil)
  Corn conversion, enzymes, and one lost brother! ("Michael Eyre")
  AFC results ("Chad Stevens")
  Re;  Kegging problems ("William Frazier")

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Suppport this service: http://hbd.org/donate.shtml * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning, and Spencer Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 13:27:41 -0400 From: Kevin Brown <kbrown at uvi.edu> Subject: Re: More well water analysis Calvin Perilloux wrote: >In fact, your water is > well suited for such treatment, and you can come > reasonably close with the addition (per 5 gallons > of your water as it is out of the tap) of 15g gypsum > and 7.5 grams Epsom salts. That's 1 ounce and half > an ounce for unmetrified folk. Better check those calculations again: 28.35 grams per ounce makes that about a half an ounce for the gypsum and a quarter of an ounce for the Epsom salts. Cheers, Kevin St. Thomas, Virgin Islands Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 15:51:23 -0500 From: Thom Cannell <Thom at CannellAndAssociates.com> Subject: Brew shops in MI > brian-morgan at cinci.rr.com Subject: Brew shops in MI Two "near" you, one in Williamston co-located with Michigan Brewing Company (twofers, beer and brewing supplies) and The Red Salamander in Grand Ledge 627-2012. I think everyone has a photographic memory; it's just that some of us don't have film. Thom Cannell T_Cannell -- compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 00:23:07 -0500 From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com> Subject: wine vs beer Greetings! An interesting article in the British Medical Journal indicates that people who buy wine make more healthy choices for food than people who buy beer. Beer people like soda, lamb, sausages, and butter. Wine people like olives, low fat cheese, fruit, and vegetables. See: http://bmj.bmjjournals.com/cgi/content/full/332/7540/519 Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY Apparent Rennerian: [394, 79.9] Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 10:21:38 -0500 From: stencil <etcs.ret at verizon.net> Subject: Re: More well water analysis On Thu, 02 Mar 2006 23:53:59 -0500, Calvin Perilloux wrote in Homebrew Digest #4965 (March 02, 2006): >------------------------------ >[ ... ] > >I've been tending lately toward using more distilled >water dilutions rather than the boil+aerate method. >Distilled water costs me money, but I've found that >my propane bill does as well. With the last batch >I used this on, when I included this and the usual >propane usage for mash/sparge water and a long boil, >I ripped through half a 20-lb tank for one 5-gallon >batch of beer. Ouch. > Ouch indeed. But a pound of Mrs Wages Pickling Lime is less than four bucks and will last till the galaxy collapses. Calcium chloride and precipitated chalk are a little pricier but still less than the cost of boiling ten gallons of tapwater. The other expenses I've encountered on the trail to negative Residual Alkalinity are - LaMotte Alkalinity and Hardness kits ($30 each from http://www.pollardwater.com/ - pH meter (<$50 from http://www.masterstouch-giftshop.com/digital-meter-p-7716.html) - 10-gallon Vittles Vault II ($20 from http://www.pet-dog-cat-supply-store.com/ ) - mini submersible pump, (<$10 from Wal-Mart ) - sensitive scale ($30 from http://www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/powhan2.html ) ...all of which were already on hand, as I suspect they will be for many HBD'ers. The procedures outlined by Hubert Hanghofer in HBD#2540, and as elucidated by A.J. deLange and John Palmer, are pretty nigh foolproof and the only grief I've had is regretting not having used them earlier. stencil sends [535.2mi, 86.4deg] AR Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 22:17:44 -0800 From: "Michael Eyre" <meyre at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Corn conversion, enzymes, and one lost brother! Hello all! Friends, I am lost! I have attempted two experiments with limited success and have searched the internet to no end, and still have not found an easy to understand answer. In a nutshell, what I would like to do is this: Mash some amount of corn (corn! I have a 25lb bag of it here, pre-cracked regular corn) of a percentage over 51% corn, with some other amount of perhaps barley and perhaps rye and convert all that starch into usable sugar for fermentation. I'm working in two gallon batches now just to experiment, and what I did the first time was to just crack the pre-cracked grain smaller than it was, mix it with some 2 row American barley and mash it for 2 hours at 150. Not much happened. I used 2lbs of corn and 1lb of barley and I got 1.028 for an O.G. when I expected more. I suspected the enzymes couldn't get to the interior of the corn, so I looked to the internet and found that maybe I needed to do a 'cereal mash', and boil the tar out of the corn, by itself, for about half an hour. So, tonight I did that. What a mess! Burned it good ot the bottom of the pot, but I got he process done. I put in about 6 quarts of water with 3lbs of corn this time around (I'm looking for a higher O.G. this time, so I upped the recipe to 4lbs of grain total 3lbs corn, 1lb barley) and boiled it. It got very thick. I mixed in the barley after cooling the corn pudding to 150 degrees and added 6quarts more water ot the mix, because I wasn't sure if I should count the water I added to the corn previously or not (a lot evaporated off, I'm sure, and there was no standing water in the corn after the boiling process..). So, it's on the stovetop now, looking like something ugly, but I'm hoping it's converting. The top clear layer tests good to go on the iodine test, but once I stir the pot up, the iodine goes completely black when I test it like that. It's been in there an hour+ now. Now before you get the idea that I'm making a whiskey wash here, well... just disregard that particular thought. But then I *was* watching the discovery channel the other night and saw the Makers Mark thing there... it looks like they roller mill their corn into *dust*, and then boil it after that. When do they add the barley in that case? If they do add barley, not enzymes, do they ferment the stuff all at once in the big vat at what would be the entire amount of water? How does that all work, any one know? I realize this is a hell of a post, but I'm seriously baffled about this cereal mash stuff. I did check the archives and saw some material there from Jeff Renner from 2002 or so, but it still all left some stuff unanswered for me and I'd love to get a step by step, if you all have one. Mike P.S. anyone know what the lowest potential amount, ratio wise, of barley that you could use to convert cracked corn is, by chance? Do you need like, 25% 2 row barley to convert 75 corn, is what I'm saying? Can you use more, or less? I'm sure 6 row would be even better... and how much better, do you think? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 19:54:05 -0800 From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net> Subject: AFC results It is with great pleasure I announce the results of the 14th Annual America's Finest City Homebrew Competition are now available at: www.quaff.org/AFC2006/CategoryResults.html Chuck West's BOS Oatmeal Stout will be brewed commercially at Oggi's Mission Valley in San Diego. Thanks also to HBD, White Labs, AleSmith, and Briess for sponsorship. Most importantly, thanks to the HBD'rs from 18 states who participated. It wouldn't be much of a competition without your participation. Chad Stevens QUAFF San Diego Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 10:01:41 -0600 From: "William Frazier" <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re; Kegging problems Jeremy Blum of Takoma Park, MD wrote: "My final question regards my last kegging experience. I applied 35 psi of pressure and shook it vigorously for 10 minutes. Then I reduced the pressure to 5 psi. The results were less than ideal. Initially I ended up with alot of head as the beer was dispensed, but not alot carbonation actually in the beer." Jeremy - Check the length of your dispensing hose. This hose needs to be pretty long to avoid immediate loss of carbonation when you pour a beer, resulting in a big head and little carbonation left in the beer. I had the same problem but found that a 6 to 8 foot length of hose, between the keg and tap, solved the problem. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas USA Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 03/05/06, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96