HOMEBREW Digest #4987 Tue 04 April 2006

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  Herms controller the second (Thomas Rohner)
  Re: Campden/sodium metabisulfite as time saving/2 day brewing aid? (jeff)
  Re: Cherry/Fruit Ale Question ("Eric Denman")
  RE: Cherries in Beer (Mark Nelson)
  Hops Rhizomes in S. Illinois ("SLRJK")
  HERMS controller ("Peed, John")
  Re;  Campden and metabisulfite ("William Frazier")
  Propane stove safety (tpunk)
  RE: Campden/sodium metabisulfite as time saving/2 day brewing aid? ("Jason Gross")
  MHTG 19th Annual Big & Huge Homebrew Competition (Eric Schoville)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 09:00:08 +0200 From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner at bluewin.ch> Subject: Herms controller the second Hi Ben You heard a lot about Triacs and SSR's now. Normally a temp controller has a DC signal for heating. This is a so called open collector output (most of the times), that means it can raise the voltage to close to 12 or 24 volts. It has a current rating in the 100 to 200 mA range. So you could hook up a couple of SSR's to it.(you only need one or two) These PID temp controllers are proportional in the way as they switch the load(heater) on and off with the correct pulse width. Since this heating stuff is rather slow in reaction, they work different than a lamp dimmer. That's called pulse packet modulation.(if my english hasn't failed me) It's important, that your driver(built in or SSR) switches while the voltage is close to zero, otherwise nobody in your vincinity can use a tv, radio or puter. But most of the modern day SSR's will take care of that. By the way, you will have to take a rather thick cabling in order to get 40 Amps through. Your standard PC power cable will only be good for 10 Amps or so. Cheers Thomas Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 04:36:35 -0700 (PDT) From: jeff at henze.us Subject: Re: Campden/sodium metabisulfite as time saving/2 day brewing aid? Brian asks about AG brewing over 2 days.... Brian: I have not tried campden tabs, so on that I can't comment. But I've split my batches over two days quite a few times - actually I prefer it. There are a couple of ways to do it: 1) Overnight mash: I've made some nice beers by hitting my strike temperature just before I went to bed and letting it go until I finish the process in the morning. I use an insulated cooler to mash, so in the morning it's still quite warm, and definately done converting. 2) Hold the wort overnight: A few times it just got too late, so I put the wort in a kettle and left it on my back porch (covered) overnight to finish the next day. Once I boiled it before I left it sit, other times I didn't bother with the boil first. It was fine all those times. I suppose that if you wanted it to sit for an extended period, you could boil and cover. Bacteria growth would be minimum in that situation. I clamp the lid with vise-grips to keep animals out. 3) The 24 hour mash: No, this probably doesn't work quite like you'd like :) Things got busy in the middle of a batch and I wasn't able to get back to it for 24 hours and the mash had soured on me. It also stuck to an unbelevable degree. HOWEVER, if I had the time, I would have still sparged it and boiled it - it would have been bacteria free after the boil, but I would like to have tasted how the sourness blended with the flavor of the beer (it was a wheat). If I attempt a "sour mash" again, I'll have to be prepaired to deal with the massivly stuck sparge I anticipate now. Now I generally plan on doing a brewing session overnight. Setup and do as much of the mashing as I can the first night, then wake up early before the family and finish up. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 09:30:26 -0400 From: "Eric Denman" <edenman at gmail.com> Subject: Re: Cherry/Fruit Ale Question Michael fwiw, I recently brewed a Cherry Dubbel (adapted from the excellent Radical Brewing book by Randy Mosher http://www.radicalbrewing.com/ ), and, as I live in an area where sour cherries are quite difficult to find, I turned to the internet. I found a few places that would ship them fresh, but the shipping costs were through the roof, so I ended up going with dried cherries for the sour portion: http://www.simply-natural.biz/Eden-Dried-Cherries.php For a 5-gal batch, I used 24oz of the dried montmorency cherries, and 2lbs of sweet/bing cherries from the supermarket. I would recommend pitting the fresh cherries (if you use them), and blending the whole thing up in a food processor or blender. I omitted this step, and I don't think I got as much cherry character as I was looking for. I hydrated the sour cherries prior to using them. People with more experience with cherries might be able to offer more guidance, but those are my two cents. Does anyone know approximately how much of the sugar from a cherry gets fermented by a normal ale yeast? I was trying to figure out how much gravity the cherries contributed to my batch, but I wasn't able to find any hard numbers anywhere cheers, Eric [425.7, 121.1deg] AR - Brewing in the heart of Washington, DC - ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 19:08:19 -0500 > From: Michael Lindner <mikell at optonline.net> > Subject: Cherry/Fruit Ale Question > > My brew buddy and I are looking to brew a cherry ale. We've come across > various recipes, and there seems to be quite a bit of variation on how > muhc > and of what to add to get cherry flavor. The recipe we've been leaning > towards is "Cherries Jubilee" from "The Homebrew Recipe Guide", but have > been > unable to find a source for sour cherries. We can get unsweetened sour > cherry > juice, but have no idea how juice compares to adding whole fruit in beer. > > Any guidelines, anecdotes or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. > > - -- > Michael Lindner > Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 10:04:02 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Mark Nelson <menelson at mindspring.com> Subject: RE: Cherries in Beer Michael asked about the use of sour cherries in beer. I can't provide too much info, but I do have a source for dried sour cherries. Country Ovens (http://www.countryovens.com/cherrystore/driedfruit.html) has 'pillow packs' of dried Door County, Wisconsin, sour cherries. I've used them in meads with good success. Somewhere on their web site they mention the ratio of their dried cherries to fresh, which I think is 1/8th lb dried to 1 lb fresh. I calculated the amount to use from this information and my original recipe. Hope this helps. Mark Nelson Atlanta Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 09:46:30 -0500 From: "SLRJK" <slrjk at egyptian.net> Subject: Hops Rhizomes in S. Illinois Help, I'm being taken over by hops! Actually, I need to move the hops I have and there are WAY too many. I have Cascade and Nugget. You can come dig some and take them on your merry way...but I would certainly take a sample of your homebrew. If someone else is interested, I can send them to you if you pay postage. Just let me know. Steve in S. IL (Near Carbondale) slrjk at egyptian.net - -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.4/299 - Release Date: 3/31/2006 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 08:04:21 -0700 From: "Peed, John" <jpeed at elotouch.com> Subject: HERMS controller Ben asks about a controller with triac outputs. Triacs switch AC, so that's fine as long as you can find an external relay (or relays, solid state or otherwise) that can handle 50 amps at 220 volts and can switch AC with an AC control signal. OK, so it's more like 40 amps, but you need a little headroom. If you're asking if you absolutely need external relays of some sort, then the answer is absolutely yes, unless you have some monster industrial controller that's capable of accepting, what, 8 gauge wire? And switching 50 amps. At 9 kw, you're working with some pretty serious power. The typical controller has light duty outputs that are intended to control heavy duty relays to switch the actual power that goes to the elements. If you use solid state relays, you will probably need to mount them on heat sinks. John Peed Oak Ridge, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 10:17:36 -0500 From: "William Frazier" <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re; Campden and metabisulfite Brian, use Campden or a metabisulfite salt to rid your water of chlorine and chloramine. I think potassium metabisulfite crystals are easier to use because you don't have to crush Campden tablets. I put 1/4 tsp in 10 gallons of brewing water. But, I would not use sulfite to prevent or delay bacterial growth in wort that is to be boiled the next day. The pH of wort is too high for reasonable amounts of sulfite to be effective. You would have to add so much you would definitely taste or smell sulfite...a burnt match aroma. If you want to mash one night a brew the next night I would mash, sparge and heat the wort to near boiling. Then shut the heat off, cover the kettle and turn off the lights. Next day heat up to a boil and finish the beer. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas USA . Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 09:02:49 -0700 (PDT) From: tpunk at riseup.net Subject: Propane stove safety Howdy, First, thanks for the thermometer recommendations! I'm on the path to a better thermometer. I did heat my pyrex thermometer for several hours and evaporated the water that got into the coil, and it works decently well again, but I think I'm going to go for a waterproof thermometer so I can have it dipped in my mash and continually monitor the temp. However, I've read several recommendations to use a propane powered stove to boil or to heat a hot liquor tank. Do people really do this? Particularly, does anyone do this inside their home? I'm under the impression that propane is very dangerous to keep inside because it is heavier than air and any leakage at all will seep into your basement without you knowing, and when your heater pops on.... a bad scene ensues. I need a more powerful flame than my home stove, but I'd be very worried about operating a propane stove in my house. I don't have a garage... and doing it all outside just seems kinda silly. So my question is: Does anyone have a different set up that produces a good enough flame to make ten gallon batches (i'm looking ahead) or any suggestions on how to avoid propane? I was thinking about trying to set up another attachment to my natural gas line which I could attach a portable stove to that has a bigger burner than my home stove, but I'd have to research that a bit as I've never messed with the natural gas lines before. Thanks! Tim McMahon Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 10:16:35 -0600 From: "Jason Gross" <jrgross at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Campden/sodium metabisulfite as time saving/2 day brewing aid? Brian asks, "But, just how effective is sodium metabisulfite at sanitizing, compared to iodophor, etc...?" I say it's not. I wouldn't bet the farm, because it might work. Wikipedia says "Campden tablets...are...used primarily in winemaking and beer-making to kill certain bacteria and to inhibit the growth of most wild yeast." I would bold, underline, capitalize, and italicize "certain" and "most" if the HBD would let me. Does anyone know the mechanism that would explain this? I have some grapes growing and would really like to get a better feel for this. I'll list couple personal examples that fit in with Wikipedia's assessment. Several years ago, I used campden tablets with peach must, and they seemed to inhibit the fermentation as expected. Fast forward to a couple years ago, I pressed about 20 gallons of apple juice to make some cider and cyser. This was not done in a day. So I thought, "I'll just add some campden tablets to the juice and press the rest of the apples next weekend." Next weekend came and the juice pressed the previous weekend was happily fizzing and fermenting. There was no pellicle or mold growing on the top, so I just let the wild beasts do their work. The story has a happy ending, however, as the resulting product was very tasty. As a side note, I added the cider yeast from White Labs to the freshly pressed juice, which was notably different but also good. This is the home vintner's digest, right? Confused in Mandan, ND, Jason Gross [892.8, 296.2deg] AR Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 11:23:38 -0500 From: Eric Schoville <eric at schoville.com> Subject: MHTG 19th Annual Big & Huge Homebrew Competition Dear Homebrewers: The Madison Homebrewers & Tasters Guild is proud to sponsor the 19th Annual Big & Huge Homebrew Competition. Homemade beers will be evaluated by the trained palates of experienced beer judges. Beer evaluation sheets will be returned to every entrant with helpful comments and advice. Awards will be presented in five categories. The Best of Show beer will receive the coveted WOOLY MAMMOTH plaque. The HAIRLESS MOUSE plaque awarded to the winner of the CMS category. Come to the competition to participate in the homebrew exchange and meet other brewers and beer lovers. The competition is sanctioned by the Beer Judge Certification Program and will follow its competition procedures. Each beer will be evaluated according to Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) style guidelines as indicated by the brewer. Please contact us if you are interested in judging or stewarding (see below). When: Saturday, May 6th Where: Ale Asylum, 3698 Kinsman Blvd., Madison, WI 53704 Entry Requirements: Three 12 ounce or larger bottles per entry. Bottles and caps should have no labels or identifying marks. Attach one completed entry form to each bottle with a rubber band. Include an entry fee check payable to the Madison Homebrewers & Tasters Guild. Entry Fee: $5 per entry Entry Form: http://mhtg.org/contests/2006%20Big&HugeEntry.pdf Categories: Big Ale (Original Specific Gravity: 1.050 to 1.060) Big Lager (1.050 to 1.060) Huge Ale (>1.060) Huge Lager (>1.060) CMS (Ciders, Meads & Sakes) (>1.050) Prizes will be awarded to all place winners in each category. Entry Deadline: Deliver entries to Big & Huge Competition, c/o Ale Asylum, 3698 Kinsman Blvd, Madison, WI 53704 until Thursday, May 4th. Affix a copy of the registration form to each bottle with a rubber band. Any questions? Contact Mark Alfred, or Mark Schnepper (see below) About the Club: The Madison Homebrewers & Tasters Guild, Ltd. is a nonprofit club devoted to the brewing and appreciation of well-made beers. Visit our website for more information: http://mhtg.org/contests/BigNHuge2006.html Corporate Sponsors: Ale Asylum; All About Beer Magazine; Beersmith; Briess Malt and Ingredients Company; Cynmar Corporation; Freshops; Hop Union CBS LLC; Logic Inc.; Glasses, Mugs and Steins; Malt Advocate Magazine; Midwest Supplies; Siebel Institute of Technology; Sierra Nevada Brewing Company; White Labs Inc.; Williams Brewing Company For further information, contact: Mark Alfred at (608) 217-4160, mailto:hulsie2002 at yahoo.com Mark Schnepper at (608) 882-4523, mailto:mschnepper at yahoo.com Return to table of contents
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