HOMEBREW Digest #4986 Mon 03 April 2006

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  Bottles didn't carbonate ("Greg Brewer")
  Missing articles in HBD archive...does anyone have them? (Scott Alfter)
  Re: Bottles didn't carbonate ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Re: missing issues ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  RE:  temperature controller for herms ("William C. Tobler")
  RE:  co2 Refills ("William C. Tobler")
  Campden/sodium metabisulfite as time saving/2 day brewing aid? ("Brian Pic")
  Herms controller (Thomas Rohner)
  Re: temperature controller for herms (Dylan Tack)
  re: SSR and Temp controller ("Mike Sharp")
  AHA South Regional (Ed Moore)
  Re: co2 Refills (Glyn)
  Cherry/Fruit Ale Question (Michael Lindner)
  agar plates (Randy Ricchi)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 22:36:57 -0500 From: "Greg Brewer" <gbrewer1 at gmail.com> Subject: Bottles didn't carbonate My latest imperial IPA is wonderful except for extremely low carbonation in the bottles. It tastes slightly sweet so I think the sugar I added at bottling is still there after four weeks. Can anyone suggest any rescue attempts that have worked for them? Based on a warning in HBD last week I know I don't want to try adding dry ice. I do not have kegging equipment so that is out. I have some dry yeast, might adding a few grains to each bottle work? Thanks, Greg Chicago, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2006 23:53:04 -0700 From: Scott Alfter <scott at alfter.us> Subject: Missing articles in HBD archive...does anyone have them? Between digests I mass-downloaded from the archive a couple or three years ago, digests that have arrived by mail since I've been a subscriber, and a few more downloads to fill in spots I missed, I now have the entire HBD archive (from 1988 to the present) sitting in an IMAP folder on my mail server. Maybe at some point I'll dump the individual messages into a database and make it searchable, so that if you want to find messages on (for instance) how to remove surface lead from brass, or if you want to find a recipe for Berliner weisse, you can search for it. My mail/web server is now sitting on a fairly fat pipe, so I think it could handle the activity. While checking my collection for completeness, I found that the HBD archive is missing a handful of issues, most likely published on or around the dates given: #154 (19 May 1989) #718 ( 7 Sep 1991) #1653 ( 9 Feb 1995) #2047 (24 May 1996) If any other packrats out there have these messages, I could use them. For that matter, the archive could use them too. _/_ Scott Alfter / v \ Visit the SNAFU website today! (IIGS( http://snafu.alfter.us/ Top-posting! \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden >What's the most annoying thing on Usenet? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 08:27:28 -0400 From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <hbd at spencerwthomas.com> Subject: Re: Bottles didn't carbonate > > My latest imperial IPA is wonderful except for extremely low > carbonation in the bottles. A technique that has worked for me in the past is to agitate the bottles. Every day, take each bottle and turn it over and back a couple of times. Do this for 2 weeks, and you should see some increase in the carbonation. It's probably good to keep the bottles in a relatively warm (room temperature) place while you're doing this. If they're in a basement at 55 degrees, they're not going to do much, no matter what. =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 08:30:16 -0400 From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <hbd at spencerwthomas.com> Subject: Re: missing issues I've got #1653: http://homeroastnbrew.info/hbd/1995/1653.txt But I'm missing the other three, as well. If anybody has them, please send or point me at a copy. Thanks. =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 09:08:44 -0500 From: "William C. Tobler" <WTOBLER at HOUSTON.RR.COM> Subject: RE: temperature controller for herms Ben asks about setting up his temperature controller for his new system. I may be able to help a little on your HERMS. I have an all electric 10 gallon HERMS I've been using for 4 or 5 years now, and I have to admit, it works pretty good. I'll include some pictures as well as a PDF schematic of the system. I'm using Omega temperature controllers for the HLT and Mash temps (CN9121A and CN9111A). Each leg of the 220 volt AC for the 7000 watt element in the HLT has it's own SSR. I'm using Omega SSR330DC40. Good to 330 vac, DC input and rated at 40 amps. My HLT controller puts out a 5 volt DC pulsed output to the SSR's. The mash temperature controller has a relay output, which controls a 24 VDC three-way valve which controls the direction of wort flow from the mash. (It either goes through the heat exchanger or to the bypass line) Some questions on your controller. You say you have a triac output? I seem to remember that triac means digital. Would that be a 5 volt DC SSD? (Solid State Driver) Your digital signal has to go to some sort of relay to control the 220 VAC stuff. So, yes, you need a relay, and I would certainly go with SSR's . Much better than mechanical, and if your controller has a pulsed output, it will probably not work with a mechanical relay anyway. You can use one relay for each element, but that will leave one leg hot all the time, which is not good. I suggest using one SSR on each leg of all the elements. I think two 4500 watt elements is a little overkill in the HLT. I can heat up 14 gallons of water in 20 minutes easy with one 7000 watt element. Find a plumber that works with instant hot water heaters, and he will have a pile of used but still good elements. They change them out all the time. Of course, I have a separate pump to circulate the water in the HLT during heat up and while raising the mash temp. The kettle cart works real well. The kettle, pump and CFC are all together and I can move it around the brewery as needed. Feel free to email me with any questions you might have. I've got lots more pictures. Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.2, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Brewing Great Beer in South Texas Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 09:41:03 -0500 From: "William C. Tobler" <WTOBLER at HOUSTON.RR.COM> Subject: RE: co2 Refills BRY asks about filling CO2 tanks. I've got 4 tanks at the moment, and one is an old O2 cylinder I salvaged years ago. It has the gas company's name on it, who are out of business. I get my CO2 tanks filled at a local fire safety shop. They fill fire extinguishers with CO2, hydro bottles and sell all kinds of fire stuff to big companies. They don't really seem to care about the name on the tank. They will hydro and fill it if you got the cash. I used a very old bottle of CO2 once, and didn't notice anything wrong with the beer. I'd go ahead and use it, and in the meantime look for a fire safety place in you area. Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.2, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Brewing Great Beer in South Texas Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 11:03:28 -0400 From: "Brian Pic" <bpicke at gmail.com> Subject: Campden/sodium metabisulfite as time saving/2 day brewing aid? First off, thanks to AJ and Fred Scheer for answering my water questions a few weeks ago, providing me with feedback about my local tap water here in Muncie, Indiana. I also asked at the time about campden tablets for removing cloramine. AJ answered my question that it does work pretty much instantly. These are apparently the same product vintner's use to 'sulfite' their musts/barrels, etc.. On the product descriptions there is talk of it inhibiting bacteria and wild yeasts. But, it would also inhibit brewing yeasts, correct? If not, it would probably be SOP to add to every batch. Or, perhaps it's not used more often just in the interests of purity and in recognition of the fact that some people are (I think) allergic to sulfites. It apparently evaporates or somehow only remains effective for a day or two, and I suppose it would be completely flavor neutral. When I started all grain brewing several years ago, it practically killed my brewing. The added time meant that it was much less often that I got the opportunity to brew. I have gotten back into brewing though, both extract and (mostly) AG, but I could brew a lot more often if I could manage to break up the brew session and mash one night and brew the next. I have corny kegs that I could use to store the wort. Now I am trying to extend my brew length so that I can brew an adequate amount of beer and make good use of all the time spent doing AG. Also, I am looking at parti-gyle brewing, and making different beers from the same basic wort by steeping specialty grains in part of the runnings, etc... I know this has been done, but I am wondering if the campden tablets make sense here or not, and why. Because I plan to brew 10 or even 15 gallon batches rather than the standard 5, I anticipate at times not being able to boil all the wort, etc... My question is, would it make good sense to add a campden tablet to your runnings if you were planning to keg the runnings and boil them the next night? I have always kinda wanted to try that, and I remember it coming up from other posters on the HBD in the 1990's. If it's to be boiled the next night anyway, then one might not worry about any bacterial growth, but it would seem to be a bit safer way to accomplish a 2 day brew session, especially if something comes up and I am not able to boil the wort for 2-3 days. Also, if I were not able to chill the runnings, that would also increase the chances of significant bacterial growth and getting off flavors even if the wort is boiled later. Might the campden tablets help? There are lots of other situations where they might help, for instance, if I run out of propane, or drop the starter, etc.... and have a 'brewing emergency'. Not worrying so much here, neither has happened to me in the past, but it seems campden tablets could be a real help under such conditions. But, just how effective is sodium metabisulfite at sanitizing, compared to iodophor, etc...? Would I need to add 1 tablet per gallon as vintners do? The standard rate of 1 tablet per 20 gallons would probably only be enough for de-clorination, and no sanitation, correct? Also, is it all going to boil out, even if I were to boil the wort the next morning? If it is evaporating, will it come out of solution even in a carboy with a airlock, or would I need to stir it a lot (gently!) in an open bucket, etc... If I were to add it after the boil, but a day before pitching, is that going to stunt the yeast when I do have the opportunity to pitch? If I were to add it 2-3 days before pitching, and then seal it in a sanitized carboy, is that going to be effective enough to keep it fresh, and not develop off flavors? If I add it a day or two before boiling, is it going to be completely boiled out with a standard 1 hour boil? If I just use it to treat the cloramine, then can I be sure it's all driven off with the boil, or should I let it sit for a day or two before brewing? Is the 1 tablet per 20 gallons concentration even enough to stunt the growth of brewing yeast at all? Thanks for any comments, - --Brian Pic... (Brewing about 200 miles south of the homebrew center of the universe) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 17:40:22 +0200 From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner at bluewin.ch> Subject: Herms controller Hi Ben A triac is what you will find in a SSR. So from that point you should be ok. But you want to drive 2 4500W loads, that's 9kW and equals around 41 Amperes given the 220V. I'm not shure this controller you're looking at is capable of delivering it. With SSR's you can choose from a large selection of types. And if you have a short, you only have to change the SSR, not the whole controller. I'd take a 50 Amp model just to be shure. It's quite a amperage anyways, i couldn't draw that much on a 220V outlet here in Switzerland, i'd have to take 3phase 380V to get to 9kW. Cheers Thomas Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 11:50:31 -0500 From: Dylan Tack <dylan at io.com> Subject: Re: temperature controller for herms > Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 00:28:18 -0500 > From: "Ben Dooley" <bendooley at gmail.com> > > Hello all. I'm building a herms, and I'm shopping around for a > temperature controller on ebay. > > I'm planning on heating my hot liquor tank with two 4,500 watt water > heater elements in paralell at 220VAC. Do I absolutely need to run > these with ssr's? In short: triacs are fine, go for it. In detail: Many SSRs use a triac output stage anyway. The difference is that triacs require a periodic drive signal, whereas SSRs generate this signal for you, making them easier to use if all you want is an on/off switch. SSRs may also include opto-isolation. The flip side is that triacs are cheaper, and also allow you to do phase control (like a dimmer switch). Also: 9000 watts is a lot of power! That will heat 10 gallons of liquor in 20 minutes (assuming an insulated container, and a temperature rise of 70C). Perhaps this is what you are after. I personally get adaquate results with a 2,000 watt HLT. My mash tun is heated directly with propane, and my HLT will heat 5 gallons in about 40 minutes. So the hot liquor is heated during the mash. For 10 gallon batches, I simply top up the HLT during the sparge, and the heater can maintain the temperature as long as I am sparging at a reasonable rate. -Dylan Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 10:44:53 -0700 From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com> Subject: re: SSR and Temp controller Ben Dooley asks about SSRs "I'm looking at a super sweet controller, but it's outputs are triac" No sweat. Get a separte SSR. Most controllers don't drive the load themselves anyway, because you never know how big of an SSR you'd need, or even whether it would drive an SSR in the first place. Regards, Mike Sharp Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 13:01:40 -0500 From: Ed Moore <moore36 at sugar-land.oilfield.slb.com> Subject: AHA South Regional AHA South Regional is coming up: Judging: St. Arnold's Brewery 2522 Fairway Park Drive Houston, Tx 77092 Saturday April 22nd at St. Arnold's 9 to noon and then 5 to 9 or 10. Pub Crawl will be from noon to 5. We pay for the bus, you pay for beer and food. Sunday April 23rd at St. Arnold's from 9 till finish. Lunch will be provided. So, come out and judge. If you come, you will be doing some serious judging. If you do not know how, you will be paired with an experienced judge or you can steward a flight. So, come out and help judge beers. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 12:36:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Glyn <graininfuser at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: co2 Refills I can speak for everyone on this, lol. I came by my 20# the same way. Except it had Miller on it and it was out of date on the hydro inspection. The gas company just swapped tanks. Feeling guilty I mentioned that it was out of date and they didn't care. Glyn S. Middle TN Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 19:08:19 -0500 From: Michael Lindner <mikell at optonline.net> Subject: Cherry/Fruit Ale Question My brew buddy and I are looking to brew a cherry ale. We've come across various recipes, and there seems to be quite a bit of variation on how muhc and of what to add to get cherry flavor. The recipe we've been leaning towards is "Cherries Jubilee" from "The Homebrew Recipe Guide", but have been unable to find a source for sour cherries. We can get unsweetened sour cherry juice, but have no idea how juice compares to adding whole fruit in beer. Any guidelines, anecdotes or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. - -- Michael Lindner Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 21:52:34 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us> Subject: agar plates In the past, I've gotten my pre-poured agar plates (petri dishes) from the Grape and Granary, but they don't carry them any more. I verified this with them. Does anyone know where to get pre-poured agar plates? I know Cynmar carries them, but you have to buy a quantity, and I only need a few. Return to table of contents
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