HOMEBREW Digest #502 Mon 24 September 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Aluminum Kegs(OH NO! NOT AGAIN!) (Jim Griggers)
  Foxx (Rick Myers)
  M&F Yeast Question (Jim Griggers)
  kegs and O rings (John E. Greene)
  Homebrew Digest #500 (john_cotterill)
  Re: Keg Questions (Chris Shenton)
  the evolution of taste (long) (florianb)
  Going to GERMANY! (Fred Condo)
  Taste the Difference (Norm Hardy)
  Germany, Part 1 (Norm Hardy)
  Racking off the trub (Chuck Coronella)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 Sep 90 10:04:26 EDT From: Jim Griggers <brew at ncrmud> Subject: Aluminum Kegs(OH NO! NOT AGAIN!) Lord knows I don't want to start another debate about stainless steel kegs vs. aluminum kegs. A couple of days ago however, I went over to a friend's house to share a couple of my homebrews, and mentioned I was trying to get a stainless keg for my brewpot. His response was, "When did they start making stainless kegs?" You see, years ago (1955-57), he worked for Reynolds Aluminum and was in the reserch lab. They would study kegs that had been returned with holes in them. Corrosion from the inside out. It turned out that the holes were caused by the caustic cleaning solutions (powder residue?) that had been left in the kegs after they left the brewery. I think their solution was to suggest more thorough rinsing before filling the kegs with beer! I'm sort of glad I wasn't old enough to drink beer back then, but I wonder if they are any better with their processing today. So you see, at some time in the past, at least some beer kegs were aluminum. I have no idea if Reynolds still makes kegs, or whether any of the old ones would be available now. JUST A DATA POINT! I KNOW I AM GOING TO BE SORRY I BROUGHT IT BACK UP. Jim Griggers * * * * * brew at ncrmud.Columbia.NCR.COM * * 408 Timber Ridge Dr. * * West Columbia, SC * * * 29169 * * Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 90 9:25:48 MDT From: Rick Myers <cos.hp.com!hpctdpe!rcm at hp-lsd> Subject: Foxx Full-Name: Rick Myers Mike Schmidt (314) 872-3168 <schmidt at aec830.mdcbbs.com> writes: >Subject: Keg Questions >Regarding the home brew kegging system sold by Foxx as a complete kit. I am >slightly concerned by Foxx's photo of the kit in their 90-91 catalog as it >shows a CO2 pressure regulator with only *one* pressure gauge (dispensing >pressure I believe). A question from a neophyte keg user is; how important is >it to know both the cylinder pressure and the dispensing pressure? I believe for $7 or $8 more, Foxx will sell you a double regulator system... Rick - -- *===========================================================================* Rick Myers Hewlett-Packard Colorado Telecommunications Division 5070 Centennial Blvd. Colorado Springs, CO 80919 (719) 531-4416 INTERNET: rcm at hpctdpe.col.hp.com *===========================================================================* Disclaimer: standard Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 90 11:39:13 EDT From: Jim Griggers <brew at ncrmud> Subject: M&F Yeast Question A little history. When I started brewing last summer (1989), I used Munton & Fison dry yeast. It was the only yeast available from the local homebrew supply house. I used this last summer and fall. In January 1990 I decided to try a liquid yeast. I have been using Wyeast #1338 for the last several batchs. This is from one package that I started a culture from and stored the slants in the refrigerator. I am always amazed at how such a small drop of yeast from the inoculating loop can grow so fast into such a mass for pitching. Anyway, this yeast seems to form a very thick top layer of yeast foam that rises up out of the primary. I wasn't prepared for this since this was the first time I had used the liquid yeast in hot weather. The primary was a 7.5 gallon plastic bucket with a lock attached to a hole drilled in the top. Pushing foam out of a lock is a lot harder that CO2, and the top of the bucket was all bulging out. I attached a tube to the center post of the air lock and lead this to a pot of water. After a day the foam went down and I racked to a glass carboy. It is still bubbling away after almost 2 weeks, and the room temp is almost 84. (I am working on getting a beer fridge) I decided to try a little experiment, so I made up another batch of beer and used an old pack of M&F yeast(had been refrigerated). It starts out like gangbusters, bubbling gas out of the air lock in only 5 hours. This batch is fermenting in my new(used) 7 gallon glass carboy. (I love this and am not going back to plastic) The foam on top however, is just an inch thick and has no yeast in it to speak of. (Now after I have beaten around the bush): What type of yeast is the M&F yeast? It doesn't say it is ale yeast, but from everything I have read it almost certainly is since it came from Britain. If you have used Wyeast #1338, and have fermented at high temperatures, how long did the fermentation take? The last time I used it, the room temp was around 65 and the beer stayed in the secondary for about 1 month. Jim Griggers * * * * * brew at ncrmud.Columbia.NCR.COM * * 408 Timber Ridge Dr. * * West Columbia, SC * * * 29169 * * Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 90 09:23:30 -0700 From: jeg at desktalk.desktalk.com (John E. Greene) Subject: kegs and O rings Mike Schmidt writes: >Regarding the home brew kegging system sold by Foxx as a complete kit. I am >slightly concerned by Foxx's photo of the kit in their 90-91 catalog as it >shows a CO2 pressure regulator with only *one* pressure gauge (dispensing >pressure I believe). A question from a neophyte keg user is; how important is >it to know both the cylinder pressure and the dispensing pressure? Not very. All you really care about is the dispensing pressure. Although everyone I know that has ordered the system from Foxx has bought the dual gage regulator. I guess they just like to see what's going on. >One last keg question. How much value is added by "William's unique lid sealing >O ring", which is advertised to seal tightly at even the lowest dispensing >pressure? I never really thought that it made much difference until recently when I bought two reconditioned pepsi kegs from Fun Fermentations in Orange California. At $35 each it was a reasonable deal. I also have two kegs I bought from Williams that I have been using for the past year or so. With the William's kegs I never have to worry about the keg sealing. I just close it up and set it in a cool dark place to carbonate for a week before putting it in the fridge. The lids fit extra tight with the larger O ring. I kegged my first batch in a pepsi keg on Tuesday and without pressurizing the keg the lid would leak. Even then it took several trys to get the lid just right so I wouldn't get little bubbles around the seal area when I applied pressure. My next order to William's will definitely include two O rings. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- John E. Greene If your feet smell and nose runs.... Sr. Staff Engineer You're upside down. Desktalk Systems Inc. uucp: ..uunet!desktalk!jeg (213) 323-5998 internet: jeg at desktalk.desktalk.com Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Sep 90 09:24 -0800 From: john_cotterill%40 at hpd500.desk.hp.com Subject: Homebrew Digest #500 Can we get a notes group working on this subject??? John C. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 90 13:33:25 EDT From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Re: Keg Questions "Mike Schmidt (314) 872-3168" writes: > Regarding the home brew kegging system sold by Foxx as a complete kit. I am > slightly concerned by Foxx's photo of the kit in their 90-91 catalog as it > shows a CO2 pressure regulator with only *one* pressure gauge (dispensing > pressure I believe). For an additional $6, Foxx will sell you double-guage regulator instead. I checked yesterday. Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Sep 90 13:02:47 PDT (Fri) From: florianb at tekred.cna.tek.com Subject: the evolution of taste (long) To direct some thoughts toward sponsoring race cars I offer the following long thoughts. John Steinbeck said, in Cannery Row , "No one has studied the psychology of parties." Well, I claim, "No one has studied the psychology of beer taste, either." I have a confession to make: I've been drinking Budweiser lately. Please allow me to develop this. In the beginning, I drank Coors and Busch. Then I moved from the Midwest to the Pacific Northwest and begain drinking Lucky Lager. Then I got loose bowels and switched to Rainier. Later, I moved to Germany and enjoyed Bavarian Lager. When I Yankee'd back home, the micro brew revolution had begun, so I started in on the likes of Red Hook, Widmer, and Rogue River. Then I discovered home brewing...I figured out how I could spend $10 and get something really good besides fried chicken out of my kitchen. I thought, "This is great, now I can spend less on micro brews." But then a series of strange things happened... After two years of home brewing, I switched to liquid yeast, full grain mash recipes, and temperature control. Then I stopped buying micro brews altogether, and enjoyed home brewed beers with careless abandon. Some time later, I went back into a local micro, had a pint of whatever, and got a headache. Then I went to a different pub in Corvallis, had a pint of Widmer Weizen (the bartender stuck a lemon in it), and then another, and came to the conclusion that it hardly resembled the weizen beers I had in Germany, and that my own weizen beer brewed at home had better taste, and was closer to the style than what I paid $2.20 a pint for. The next morning, I had a headache. The local beer blurbs from Portland contain articles based on the blabbering of self-proclaimed brew masters from the likes of Full Sail and Portland Brewing. They claim that the Pacific Northwest water is "perfect for brewing ales." In truth, it's perfect for nothing. It contains very little minerals. Thus, it can be tailored to "imitate" certain ale styles. This is one example of how micro brewers are using near-falsehoods to market their products. There are many others. So how is this different from what the big boys do when they sponsor cars? At least Schludwiller costs less than $2.20 per pint for drinkable lies. I understand that brewing equipment is expensive. I priced some recently. But for the price, then one should get something really, really good. Very few micro brews are. So how are they any better than their big brothers? Two weeks ago, I took a vacation in Northern Central California. I went to my brother's farm. He has a second refrigerator in the barn filled with Budweiser. We talked mechanics, family history, how to grow corn, politics, why it doesn't rain anymore in California, and which beer is best to drink on a hot afternoon. There was a little self-righteousness thrown in for good measure. The conversation was good, the air was clean, the beer was right on target. Last week I went to a fish house with a German friend here from Stuttgart. We went into the bar to order a drink. I remarked that he could now order a weizen beer brewed right here in the Pacific Northwest. He replied, "I tried it a few days ago in Portland. I'll have a Budweiser." We both ordered Budweisers. It went well with the fish. We had a good time. I didn't have a headache the next day. At home, I have two kegs of home brew on tap and the rest of the refrigerator is filled with Blitz Weinhard. You can get Blitz only in Oregon. It's malty, hoppy, straightforward, no lies, headache-free corn beer. At $3.50 per 12 pack of bottles, you can't beat the price. I almost never buy micro beer anymore. I don't see any good reason to. Florian, the redeemed Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 90 20:37:40 PDT From: fredc at pro-humanist.cts.com (Fred Condo) Subject: Going to GERMANY! Background: I'm going to the ICIS (International Conference on Info. Systems) in Copenhagen in December. Being a poor student, I decided to find the cheapest way to get to Europe, which is to fly to Frankfurt, Germany (I need to do personal battle with the Swiss bureacracy, so I need to hang out in Europe for a couple weeks anyway, so I'm getting a railpass). Anyway, the upshot being that I will be in Germany and environs for about 2 and a half weeks before the conference. So... GERMANY, land where beer is the national drink. I would like to hear from any other beer aficianado who, by chance, will also be in Germany and/or Denmark in December (3rd through the 27th). Barring that, I would like to hear from anyone who's been there or from anyone who can tell me what beer-producing locales I absolutely must not miss. Replies directly to me, please, summary forthcoming. Prosit! *........... Fred Condo. Pro-Humanist BBS: 818/339-4704, 300/1200 bps INET: fredc at pro-humanist.cts.com BitNet: condof at clargrad matter: PO Box 2843, Covina, CA 91722 Amer. Online: FredJC Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 90 19:43:13 PDT From: polstra!norm at uunet.UU.NET (Norm Hardy) Subject: Taste the Difference Here is a promo for a beer festival of sorts in Seattle on Sunday, Sept 30. From 2 to 6 p.m. the 2nd annual "Taste the Difference" will take place. Ten regional microbrewers will have one of their beers on tap for sampling. Designated drivers get in free. Price is something like $6 for 5 glasses of beer, $9 for all ten (use the designated driver). The glass size is I'm sure less than a pint. Food and a homebrewing lecture are also on the docket. Where: the Phinney Neighborhood Center on 65th and Phinney Way N., just up the hill from Green Lake. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 90 19:39:25 PDT From: polstra!norm at uunet.UU.NET (Norm Hardy) Subject: Germany, Part 1 Here is the long awaited (long avoided actually) summary of a homebrewer's trip to Germany from July 8 - 31 of this year. After having gone in 1984 and 1987 I was very anxious to try the beers that got me interested in homebrewing (in 1985) and fascinated with pilseners (1987). I traveled and had the beers of five major cities: Hamburg, Bonn, Nuernberg, Munich, and Duesseldorf. Today I will discuss the beers of Hamburg. In the north of Germany, Hamburg is a seaport town with population slightly more than 1 million. The pilsener is the beer of choice. Specific gravity of 1.045 - 1.050 and HIGHLY hopped, these beers can wow or depress depending on your orientation. This time around, my taste buds found the pilseners to be quite bitter on the tongue but wonderfully aromatic to the nose. The beer says "quality" in the art of brewing. The old saw about a tap pilsener being no good if served in less than five minutes is widely accepted here. One beer took ten minutes as the barkeep patiently added more foam every 90 seconds or so. Ahh, it makes one appreciate the wait when the nectar touches the lips. Homebrewers would have to use alot of German style hops in the boil, and a fair amount in the finish to capture the bitter but aromatic character. The key here is low alpha acid hops. My favorites in Hamburg were Moravia Pils, Ratsherrn Pils, Warsteiner, Astra Urtyp Pils, Flensburger Pilsener, and Holstein Alcohol-Free Pils. Of course, one MUST have these beers on tap to get the best of Germany. Most bars had more than one beer on tap, typically an Alt beer or Kolsch. But the pilsener sits on the throne of Hamburg beers. Homebrewer hints: to make a pilsener at home requires proper fermentation temperature control and at least 30 days. A long boil of 90 minutes is necessary (I think) to get a sparkling wort. Of course, liquid yeast is vital to ensure a clean tasting beer. The ultra pale (light) color of the pilsener is hard to get with extracts (at least for me). All grain brewing with almost all pale malt will get the color right on. Enough....Bonn is next. Norm Hardy Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 90 19:12 MST From: Chuck Coronella <CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU> Subject: Racking off the trub Howdy: This talk of wort chillers in the last few days has got me thinking. Since I'm an extractbrewer and I only boil about 1.5 - 2 gallons, the chilled water I've been adding to make up to 5 gallons has taken the temperature of the wort to around 80 deg. F. But Pete Soper's discussion of a cold break like a "Boston Snow Storm" got me thinking. I've never really looked for a cold break before. Well, I just brewed Thursday night, and looked for the cold break. I wouldn't describe it as a Boston snow storm, but maybe like a late November snow flurry. The layer of settled trub (?) was about an inch and a half thick in my fermentor! So I racked off the clean wort into another fermentor and finally pitched the yeast. I guess the reason I never noticed this before is because my primary fermentor has always been a white plastic bucket. (I've just switched to glass.) ;-) So my question is, how will this beer be different than my previous batches? I never bothered to remove the trub before. (As I recall, Charlie Papazian says that breweries go through a lot of trouble to do so, but to not worry about it.) Will this be my first "crystal clear" batch of beer, or will it taste better? The funny thing is, previously, when I racked the beer to a secondary, I thought the junk that was left behind was all yeast! ;-) Now I know better. Thanks for your help, Chuck P.S. You know, one of the best parts of this hobby is that there's always something else to learn (at least so far.) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #502, 09/24/90 ************************************* -------
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