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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  55 gallon Stainless steel barrels/drums ("Steve Hill")
  Re: bleach and vinegar ("Craig S. Cottingham")
  fermentation temps (Matt)
  Brew from unhopped malt extract? ("Andrej Capka")
  Re: Brew from unhopped malt extract? ("Patrick Babcock")
  Vinegar ("John Kennedy")


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Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 23:01:38 -0400
From: "Steve Hill" <stevehill at comcast.net>
Subject: 55 gallon Stainless steel barrels/drums

Hi All,

I need some help.  I am looking to possibly sell three 55 gallon stainless 
steel barrels/drums.

all three have 1 inch spickets with 1 inch full port stainless steel ball 
valves.

I got in a little over my head with this project.

does anyone know how much I should even think about selling them for?

please feel free to email me at

stevehill at comcast.net

Montgomery County Pennsylvania.

thanks

Steve Hill 




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Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 22:13:12 -0500
From: "Craig S. Cottingham" <craig.cottingham at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: bleach and vinegar

On Aug 6, 2007, at 16:23, "-s at adelphia.net" <-s at adelphia.net> wrote:

> Bleach on glassware works well as a cleaner & sanitizer, but of course
> requires rinsing.

I can't let that "of course" slide without comment.

There are two numbers at work here. First is the concentration of  
chlorine which is effective as a sanitizer. Second is the  
concentration of chlorine which can be detected by human senses, or  
somewhat equivalently the concentration of chlorine which can lead to  
characteristics in your beer that can be detected by human senses. If  
the first is greater than the second, then "of course" is valid.  
OTOH, if the second is greater than the first, rinsing does little to  
no good, and can introduce contaminants if the rinse water itself has  
not been sanitized.

I don't remember the value of the first number, and I have no idea  
what the second number might be. I strongly suspect that the second  
number is highly subjective, which immediately throws into question  
the validity of "of course".

All I can say for certain is that I heard a voice claiming to be  
Charley Talley state that the concentration of chlorine which is  
effective as a sanitizer is below the taste threshold, and that  
rinsing is not necessary. Since he's in the business of selling no- 
rinse sanitizers which *aren't* acidulated household bleach, I am  
inclined to believe what he says.

- --
Craig S. Cottingham
BJCP Certified judge from Olathe, KS ([621, 251.1deg] Apparent  
Rennerian)
craig.cottingham at gmail.com




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Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 08:17:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt <baumssl27 at yahoo.com>
Subject: fermentation temps

Some comments on hot weather yeasts for new brewers (Danny):

1. Steve says "The belgian style yeasts are completely the wrong
thing."  I don't know if this is because he thinks they're generally a
poor choice at high temps, or more because the flavors they create
could be confusing for a new brewer.  Anyway, I'm not sure I agree. 
Danny, if you are a fan of Belgian style beers and plan to brew them
often, I wouldn't hesitate to use WY3522 Ardennes at high temps on your
first batch.  But if you aren't a big Belgian style beer guy, then I do
think using these yeasts will only confuse things.

2. There will be less chance of excess esters if you can find a way to
get your wort down to like 72 degrees before you pitch the yeast into
it (even if you have to let it ramp up from there).

3. With a T-shirt on the carboy, ice works better than water for me. 
Put a bunch of ice cubes on top of it every morning and night.  I am
sure you can figure out a way to keep the ice cubes from falling off. 
Some people freeze a ring of ice in a bundt cake pan, which is clever
if you have one.

4. I agree about underpitching; just do not do it.  Also, I think
making starters is a complexity you probably don't need to deal with
until you've got everything else nailed, because you can buy vast
amounts of (pre-aerated!) yeast for cheap in the form of dry yeast. 
Coopers dry yeast has a good reputation for higher temps (I haven't
tried it though).

5. If you must use liquid yeast, get Wyeast XL pack that's very fresh,
and don't put it into more than 2.5 gallons of 1.048 OG wort.  White
Labs yeast is just as good but I don't know how much yeast is in a tube
offhand.  Anyway with liquid yeast you also have to aerate the wort (a
minimum would be sloshing/shaking the closed carboy in such a way that
lots and lots of foam is being produced, for a few minutes).  That's
kind of dogmatic, and it is *possible* to make good beer without
following this suggestion.  But I think the additional couple gallons
of beer is nowhere near worth the risk.  Smallish batches work well in
apartments, avoid the overflow issues, reduce time and effort (though
not proportionally), aerate faster in shaken carboys, etc.

Matt


       


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Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 20:59:18 +0200
From: "Andrej Capka" <andrej.capka at zg.t-com.hr>
Subject: Brew from unhopped malt extract?

Hi all!

Till now I mostly brew from beer kits and few times mashing and stuff.

Now I have some unhopped malt extract and I wonder what is best way to add
hops. I thought of making hops "tea" and add it to water for diluting
extract. I thought of boiling bitter hops for some time, than add aromatic
hops, boil 10 more minutes and than use it. Would that be OK or I should
boil hops with malt extract?

Any suggestions or recipes are welcomed,

Regards,

Andrej



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Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 16:45:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Patrick Babcock" <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Re: Brew from unhopped malt extract?


Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...

"Andrej Capka" <andrej.capka at zg.t-com.hr> writes:

> Till now I mostly brew from beer kits and few times mashing and stuff.
>
> Now I have some unhopped malt extract and I wonder what is best way to
> add hops. I thought of making hops "tea" and add it to water for diluting
> extract. I thought of boiling bitter hops for some time, than add
> aromatic hops, boil 10 more minutes and than use it. Would that be OK or
> I should boil hops with malt extract?

Here's how I'd do it:

1) Bring the brewing water to a boil - the pot should have enough water in
it to comfortably boil along with the volume of malt extract. One way to
ensure enough water without overfilling is to put the can of extract (or
well-sealed bag of dry extract) in the pot, then fill with water up to
about four inches to the top. Remove the can or bag of extract, and start
heating the water to a boil.
2) Add extract. Remove the pot from the heat, open the can of extract, and
pour it in while stirring. Keep stirring until all of the extract is
dissolve - no pool of extract on the bottom of the kettle! If you are
using dry extract, mix it in a separate vessel with cool water, one cup of
water at a time. Remove as many cups of boiled water from the pot as you
added to the extract. Pour the mixture into your pot as above.
3) Turn the heat back on, and bring to a boil. Stir occasionally to ensure
that the extract is not concentrating at the bottom.
4) After the wort has returned to a boil, add hops according to the hop
schedule associated with the style of beer you'd like to make.
5) Cool wort while covered.
6) Siphon wort off of hops and into fermenter.
7) Pitch yeast, and off you go...

See ya!
Pat Babcock
Chief Janitor
Home Brew Digest, Inc.




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Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 12:03:49 +1000
From: "John Kennedy" <John.Kennedy at readybake.com.au>
Subject: Vinegar

Hi Guys,

Dean, that's great news that you posted about the Vinegar, thanks for the
tip, dose it matter whether the vinegar is clear or brown?

I tried contacting you direct but had no luck, I wanted to pass on another
health tip for you, it's not beer related, and you can contact me at
ednajon3851 at hotmail.com


Regards, John Kennedy





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