HOMEBREW Digest #5223 Mon 27 August 2007


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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  fermentability of Splenda (Randy Ricchi)
  Job Proposal ("All Product Company")
  Stainless Steel Drums ("A.J deLange")
  Home brewing software (Tom Puskar)
  Re: Yeast for Secondary, Tertiary (Lee) ("Lee Smith")
  Thoughts on First Wort Hopping ("Colin Kaminski")
  Thoughts on First Wort Hopping ("Colin Kaminski")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 08:04:28 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us> Subject: fermentability of Splenda I've been thinking about making an alcoholic root beer by first fermenting an unhopped, all malt wort and then dosing with root beer extract and sweetening with splenda at bottling time. I'll use enough regular sugar for bottle conditioning. Since their will be quite a bit of splenda added, I started to worry that it might be at least partially fermentable. I'm also wondering if the Splenda could be added during the boil instead of at bottling. It would be easier to dissolve then, but maybe the boil might do it some harm? Would it affect specific gravity readings? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 07:30:48 -0500 (CDT) From: "All Product Company" <allproductstores at googlemail.com> Subject: Job Proposal Dear Sir, I am Sir.George Owen Mark The Employment Manager In Charge For China Metallurgical Imports & Exports Company Based In China.I Seize This Medium To Ask You Directly If Found It Interesting: Would you like to be Our Company Financial And Payment Collector there In Your Location And Earn At Least $500 Weekly Without Affecting your Personal Daily Or Monthly Job?.We Are Searching for The Below Capable Categories People: Experienced Drivers: Good Looking Receptionist: Representatives: Who Will Help Us Establish A Medium Of Getting To Our Customers In His/Her Location Area. Certified mechanical/Technical Engineer At All Level: Mostly We Accept Being Get Paid By Our Customer Inform Of Certified Personal check/Direct Bank Deposit We Don't Abuse Your Commitment About this However. More also When You Get Such Payment From Our Customer's You Proceed Having It Cashed Likewise Have Your Weekly Salary which Is $500 And Forward The Excess Balance To The Company. If you are Interested forward us: Your Full Name: Your Full mailing Address: Your Valid Phone Number: Year Working Experience/Occupation: I am Personally Looking Forward To Hear From You. Your sincerely Sir George Owen Mark Email: allproductcompany at gmail.com Visit: www.allproducts.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 13:13:26 +0000 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Stainless Steel Drums The answer to the question "Where can I buy stainless steel drums?" is the same as the answer to so many brewing equipment source question: McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). Go to the website and search on "drum". You will be taken to p1662 of the catalogue. Stainless drums are at the bottom of the page. I suggest that you be seated before doing this. The temptation is to try to find used drums (stainless prices are just out of sight these days) and this is fine if you are sure that the drums were used for food or something which is easily removed and not terribly toxic in its earlier life. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 10:09:05 -0400 From: Tom Puskar <tpuskar at optonline.net> Subject: Home brewing software I'm getting back into home brewing after a 5 year or so hiatus to clear up some medical issues. I just bought my new all grain system yesterday and am getting ready to go! I tuned up with a few extract batches! I used to use a nice software package (can't remember the name) to help design and log my recipes but it has apparently disappeared with various computer upgrades. Can anyone suggest a good program for recipe design & calculations--a labeler component would be nice but not critical. I googled "beer brewing software" and got a number of hits but wondered which is being used by most folks. Thanks for any input. Teejay in Howell, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2007 21:08:11 -0700 From: "Lee Smith" <smithly at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Yeast for Secondary, Tertiary (Lee) Thanks for chiming in Matt. Yes, Belgian Special is a broad category and since it is my first attempt, I'm not sure what it will turn out like so I thought I'd play it safe. I kept the malt bill simple (12 lb of Belgian Pilsner) and used 1/2 lb of dextrose in the boil to boost the OG. Am kicking myself for not taking an OG reading. Doh! Used a starter with WLP 530 (is this a Brettanomyces?). I was curious mainly to know whether or not brewers filter the primary/secondary yeast before introducing another strain. I suppose I could cold conditon it and rack it off to tertiary fermentation or bottling. I have fallen passionatly in love with "Val Dieu" and am attempting to grow up a colony from dregs for either a tertiary fermentation or pitch it with some more sugars prior to bottling. Yikes! The possibilty of having them pop off in the middle of the night scares me. Primary was vigorous and the temp crept up to 82f during the first 48 hrs. I lowered the temp to 68-70 and it has been perking along nicely; into the secondary now for a week. As far as I see it, my biggest challenge will be waiting 4-6 weeks after bottling. I'm sure it will be good but I'd like to know what I'm doing. Cheers, Lee in Marana, AZ - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ - ------- Lee has questions about making a "Belgian Special." To me the term "Belgian Special" is pretty broad, as I think few people would bat an eye if you used that term to describe almost any beer fermented with Belgian style yeast. Anyway, both questions asked seem to assume that multiple yeast strains are used. But in fact, not many Belgian ales are produced with multiple strains of saccharomyces yeast. This is not to say that using multiple strains has no effect, or that some great beers are not produced with mixed cultures--but a great many of the best beers in Belgium use a single pure culture. Is there a Belgian beer that you'd like yours to be similar to? Even when multiple saccharomyces strains are used, they are generally used together in the primary. Saccharomyces strains added after the primary will have very little to "feed" on and are unlikely to impart a lot of their own character. (This is assuming that the primary fermentation was healthy enough to be complete.) However, there are some beers in which a saccharomyces primary is followed by a brettanomyces secondary, and in this case the secondary fermentation can be pretty dramatic because the brettanomyces is capable of doing a lot with what's left behind by the saccharomyces. Orval is the best known commercial example--though the brettanomyces is now only added at bottling. As for "alcohol tolerance," don't worry about it because it would be hard to find a Belgian yeast available to homebrewers that can't hit 8% (or much higher) if it's treated right (big starter, good aeration, etc). You do not need multiple strains to hit high gravities. Hope this helps. I'm not discouraging using multiple strains--but for a first beer a single strain is simpler and sufficient to get plenty of "Belgiany" taste. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:42:50 -0700 From: "Colin Kaminski" <colinsk at pacbell.net> Subject: Thoughts on First Wort Hopping I was at the Master Brewers Hop Symposium in Corvallis Or this month and learned something that I was never able to learn from the homebrewing community. Since I owe much of my brewing career to homebrewers I thought I would share the information in hopes someone with more time to research the details can pickup where this post leaves off. I have always wondered how I can get volatile aromas from hops that have been boiled. If you think of it, anything light enough to evaporate from a cold beer should have been long gone by the time boil is over. One of the lectures in Corvallis talked about "Glucanization" of hop aromas. In this process these light oils are attached to either one, two or three carbon rings. This changes the boiling point so they survive into the fermenter where it is presumed that the carbon rings are consumed by yeast leaving the aroma molecule free to volatize and create aroma. I don't really know much more than that. Perhaps the more knowledgeable readers here can elucidate the process more. John Palmer was sitting next to me so perhaps he will have more to write about it. One of the things it did help explain is why I have different results first wort hopping. I now will only add hops after the collected wort is above 172F to make sure the amylase enzymes are denatured. The reasoning being that the amylase "might" remove the carbon rings from the aroma molecules. I don't get time to read the HBD anymore. :-( So if you want to contact me please use colinsk at pac bell dot net with the subject hops and I will try to make sure my spam filter does not dump it. Cheers! Colin Kaminski Downtown Joes, Napa, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:42:50 -0700 From: "Colin Kaminski" <colinsk at pacbell.net> Subject: Thoughts on First Wort Hopping I was at the Master Brewers Hop Symposium in Corvallis Or this month and learned something that I was never able to learn from the homebrewing community. Since I owe much of my brewing career to homebrewers I thought I would share the information in hopes someone with more time to research the details can pickup where this post leaves off. I have always wondered how I can get volatile aromas from hops that have been boiled. If you think of it, anything light enough to evaporate from a cold beer should have been long gone by the time boil is over. One of the lectures in Corvallis talked about "Glucanization" of hop aromas. In this process these light oils are attached to either one, two or three carbon rings. This changes the boiling point so they survive into the fermenter where it is presumed that the carbon rings are consumed by yeast leaving the aroma molecule free to volatize and create aroma. I don't really know much more than that. Perhaps the more knowledgeable readers here can elucidate the process more. John Palmer was sitting next to me so perhaps he will have more to write about it. One of the things it did help explain is why I have different results first wort hopping. I now will only add hops after the collected wort is above 172F to make sure the amylase enzymes are denatured. The reasoning being that the amylase "might" remove the carbon rings from the aroma molecules. I don't get time to read the HBD anymore. :-( So if you want to contact me please use colinsk at pac bell dot net with the subject hops and I will try to make sure my spam filter does not dump it. Cheers! Colin Kaminski Downtown Joes, Napa, CA Return to table of contents
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