HOMEBREW Digest #5238 Tue 16 October 2007

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  Re: Starter without DME ("Craig S. Cottingham")
  Diacetyl (leavitdg)
  re: Brewing Yeast and Fermentation ("steve.alexander")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 09:27:17 -0500 From: "Craig S. Cottingham" <craig.cottingham at gmail.com> Subject: Re: Starter without DME On Oct 07, 2007, at 13:39, "Michael O'Donnell" <odonnell at lifesci.ucsb.edu> wrote: > I'm planning to brew next weekend and have a batch of ingredients on > order. I ordered a single vial of yeast, planning on making a starter. > But then I went looking and I have no DME to start it with. I don't > have > a local homebrew store, so getting some isn't really an option. Are > there any kitchen sugars that would make an acceptable starter for a > pale ale? I've always heard advice against using table sugar to create a starter. If I remember correctly, it's because yeast grown in sucrose start to lose the enzymes necessary to metabolize maltose. A couple of possibilities comes to mind. 1. If you have extra grain, mash a pound or two in a gallon of water (a mini mash) to make your starter wort. 2. If you *don't* have extra grain, consider cutting your batch size by a gallon, and use the saved ingredients to make a starter wort. 3. This one's a little wacky, so I can't recommend it with 100% confidence, and I'm sure plenty of other readers will pitch in (no pun intended) and tell you it's a bad idea, but it should work as a last resort. Brew as you normally would, without making a starter. When the boil is complete, cool the wort as normal. Pull off the volume you would normally use for a starter, and pitch your yeast into that. Keep the rest as cold as possible, in a fridge if you have the room, or in an ice bath if you don't. Metabisulfite might help; I've never used it, so I can't say for sure. The point is to keep the remaining wort as safe from spurious fermentation as you can get it. Once your starter is grown, bring the rest of the wort up to pitching temperature and dump in the starter. I haven't actually tried the last one, but I *have* delayed pitching until the day after brewing, by putting my kettle in the fridge. The results weren't award-winning, but it was drinkable, which counts for something. :-) - -- Craig S. Cottingham BJCP Certified judge from Olathe, KS ([621, 251.1deg] Apparent Rennerian) craig.cottingham at gmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 17:11:15 -0400 From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Diacetyl If I were in your shoes, I think I would let the temperature come up to 60F for a day or two, then transfer, in the hope that the diacetyl may be dissipated that way. Let's see what others say. Darrelll Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 20:38:15 -0400 From: "steve.alexander" <-s at roadrunner.com> Subject: re: Brewing Yeast and Fermentation > > Digging around for information on Burton yeasts I came upon > a book of that name by by: Chris Boulton and David Quain > (Coors Brewers Limited, Burton on Trent) > > It's available in paperback at a very reasonable price - assuming > it would be of interest to the keen home brewer with a scientific > background. > > Has anybody read it and if so what did they think? > > David Edge, Derby I reviewed this book on HBD ~4 or 5 years ago. It's a great book for IMO. Although it is not directly about practical brewing it's content has a lot of relevance to the HBer who wishes to understand more about how yeast perform their magic. Do not expect to see lists of yeasts or much practical advice spelled out in detail. I probably paid $200+USD for a hardbound copy a few years ago - and I don't regret the expense at all. The book also contains details of a pre-pitch slurry oxygenation method developed by one author and tested at Bass Brewing. -S Return to table of contents
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