HOMEBREW Digest #5422 Fri 26 September 2008

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


                 Ypsilanti Brewing Company
        Visit them at http://www.ypsilantibrewing.com/ 
    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a 
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250 
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any 
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your 
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available 
sponsorship opportunities.

  RE: What makes the redest Red Beer? ("David Houseman")
  Re: What makes the redest Red Beer? (#5421) ("Gordon Strong")
  Re: R.O. mashing (Kai Troester)
  Wine? (Glyn and Mary)
  thermals & RO water mash ("steve.alexander")
  Hoppy Halloween Challenge ("Susan Ruud")
  Beer Traveling to Orlando & Budapest (thepfhb)

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning, and Spencer Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 08:03:00 -0400 From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net> Subject: RE: What makes the redest Red Beer? Mike, The darker the roast grain/malt, the redder the hue of the resulting color. So using roasted barley or similar grain will give you a redder hue than using, say crystal 60, even when the two result beers have the same SRM oL. When I make a red ale, I use the darkest roasted barley and add a few ounces, enough to give the color that ProMash calculates, knowing it will be very red hue, but below the flavor threshold for roasted barley in that beer. David Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 08:20:25 -0400 From: "Gordon Strong" <strongg at speakeasy.net> Subject: Re: What makes the redest Red Beer? (#5421) > Looking for suggestions to make the reddest, all grain, Red Beer. You can't get red with any crystal malts. You need to use black to get red. But it's easy to blow it. You have to watch the color change, so steep some roasted barley or black malt (I tend to use roasted barley) in your strike water. The water should be in the 150-170F range. Stir lightly to mix the color as it steeps. Remove it when it gets to the right color. You can use crystal-type malts to adjust the depth of the color and add related yellows, oranges and browns, but I've never seen a crystal malt that really gives something red. You could also do this in the mash tun or copper if you have a grant or some other way to recirculate and observe the color as it changes. The grist of your beer will change the color of the strike water depending on what's in it. You can use this technique to try to adjust the color as you go. Basically, you can steep those grains at any time you have water in the right temperature range and a way to observe it. Also assuming you mean to use only grain, and not any fruit or other additives. It's hard to give an exact recipe that you could make with a traditional mash since the amount of red color you get is dependent on the type of grain you use and how much recirculation you get. Contact time with hot water controls how much color comes out. It's much easier to do if you can observe the exact change you want. I'd start with an ounce of crushed roasted barley in a tight mesh bag and watch how it changes the color. You could experiment with water on a smaller scale and see how it changes. But you have to watch it. Gordon Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 10:56:18 -0400 From: Kai Troester <kai at braukaiser.com> Subject: Re: R.O. mashing > I am currently brewing with R.O. water. > I do all of my mineral additions in the > boil kettle. My mash ph is always perfect. > Is there any reason not to mash with R.O. > water? Jason, The only affect of the minerals, except to provide buffering for the pH and react with malt phosphates to lower the pH, on the mash that I know of is that calcium ions stabilize the alpha amylase. But in a series of mashing experiments that I did with various levels of calcium while trying to maintain the pH of the mash, I did not see a significant difference in efficiency. I have yet to evaluate the attenuation numbers. But if you say that your pH is always perfect, are you brewing only one color range of beer. When using R.O. water with very dark beers, for example, you will still have to correct the pH of the mash with some carbonate additions. Kai Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 11:05:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Glyn and Mary <graininfuser at yahoo.com> Subject: Wine? Red wine vinager..maybe good for cooking. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 14:27:25 -0400 From: "steve.alexander" <-s at roadrunner.com> Subject: thermals & RO water mash At my old house I had a temp-controlled wine cellar ~62-65F and I did some ale fermentations there. This may have been better than the ambient 70+F temps at the peak of summer but not by much I think. The mistake in several posts is that they are estimating the AC capacity based on air volumes (room size) but that calculation goes straight-out the window since your tiny chamber is filled with fermenting wort, not air Air has a heat capacity ~ 1 Joule-gram/K, and water is ~ 2 Joule-gram/K Your 2ftx2ftx5.5ft chamber has a volume of ~623 liters. It holds ~780 grams of air. It takes about the same amount of cooling energy to cool your chamber filled with air as it does to cool 390ml (13 fluid ounces) of wort. So heating or cooling a volume or water(wort) requires about 1600 times as much energy as the same volume of air. 5 gal(~20L) of wort requires as much cooling capacity as 1100 cu.ft of air (a modest bedroom size volume). Your 20gal fermenter requires the same cooling capacity as ~4500cf or a largish room 24ftx23ft by 8 ft. What this means is that your AC cannot *change* the temp as fast as a naive estimate you suggest. - -- Another killer is that the fermentation generates a lot of heat. Last Fall my wine fermentation (in a sanke) ran about 15F above ambient (quite warm to the touch) for several days ! Barleywines have similarly obvious heat-ups. If you search the archives you'll see calculations for the heat of fermentation. My quick take on heat of fermentation is this: Anaerobic fermentation produces of a mol (180gm) of glucose produces 227kcal of energy and ~15kcal retained by yeast ((see http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/fst/faculty/acree/fs430/ \ lectures/thk29ferment.html )) So it's 212kcal/180gm of fermentables or ~1180kcal/kg or 4675 BTU/kg. If you have a 20L(~5gal) of wort at 12P attain 75% apparent attenuation (~61% real atten) we have 1.5kg of sugar fermented producing 7000BTU. Your 20L fermenter should contain abt 6kg of fermentables a "normal" grav wort. producing ~28000 BTU. ((Perhaps 50000 BTU for a barleywine but who needs 20gal of barleywine?)). It will take your 6000 BTU/hr AC unit ~5 hours to overcome the heat of fermentation (and fermentation can take several days) so cooling capacity does match is adequate for heat-of-fermentation. - -- RATE of heat transfer can be a big problem. The AC can maintain the air temp around, 60F, but the question is how much heat does the fermenter transfer to the air and what is the thermal conductivity. I don't think ambient air heat transfer will do the job very well at 5 gallons and the problem gets worse for larger volume fermenters (surface area to heat ratio declines). Air transfer of heat may be inadequate for 20gal. Fins or a fan can help the transfer rate tremendously. The thermal conductivity to air will require some guesswork and calculation, or an experimental measure. If you fill the fermenter with hot or cold water in the chamber held at a constant air temp and measure how fast the temp moves toward ambient over time (it's an exponential decay type curve) the we can calculate the heat transfer of your fermenter to the air with a good accuracy. It's a good idea to use this test if you intend to use air transfer for cooling long term. - ---- RO water shouldn't be a problem in the mash, except than some enzymes require cofactor ions. I'd add a pinch of calcium-something just to be safe wrt alpha-amylase. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 13:59:03 -0500 From: "Susan Ruud" <susan.ruud at ndsu.edu> Subject: Hoppy Halloween Challenge Entries are being accepted for the Hoppy Halloween Challenge from now until October 10th. All BJCP categories are accepted plus our own theme category for Halloween. Details can be found at http://www.prairiehomebrewers.org/hoppyhalloween.htm Prizes will be awarded for all first, 2nd and 3rd place winners. There is a separate Best of Show for Beer and for Mead and Cider. Judging will occur the week of October 19th thru the 25th with the majority of the judging on the 24th and 25th. There is an awards banquet on Oct. 25th with speaker Doug Hoverson - Author of "Land of Amber Waters" Please watch our website for further information. Cheers, Susan Ruud Competition Organizer Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 02:09:55 +0000 From: thepfhb at comcast.net Subject: Beer Traveling to Orlando & Budapest Hi Cyberworld, Next up on my travel itinerary is Orlando and the House of House. I know i'll be hard pressed for any interesting beer at Disney, that is unless they have added San Deigo and Portland to the Land of Many Wonders... I will have a car, and the kids are staying in school.. Is there anything else for me to find besides alligators and tourists? The next trip should be a little more eventful. My #1 fan (Mom) is going to Hungry next month and would like to do something besides visit my godmothers family. They are staying on the Pest side. Besides Anton Dreher's family brewery, where else can I send them? Last time all they found was Stella and PU. Expectations are high since I guided the same group to U Fleku and Novometzsky Pivovar in Prague four years ago. Any help from my well traveled friends? Dr. Pivo? Anyone? - -- Phil Wilcox Poison Frog Home Brewer Secretary - Prison City Brewers (Former Warden) AABG, AHA, BA, BJCP, HBD, Etc., Et. al ... Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 09/26/08, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96