FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org *************************************************************** TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Sponsor The Home Brew Digest! Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to: HBD Server Fund PO Box 871309 Canton Township, MI 48187-6309 or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250 or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available sponsorship opportunities. *************************************************************** Contents: Inline Aeration/Candi Sugar ("A.J deLange") re: oxygenation (Joe Katchever) Re: Belgian sugar and "candi" (Tim Bray) candi (Matt)
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning, and Spencer Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:27:48 -0500 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Inline Aeration/Candi Sugar In my own setup I have the inline oxygenation device connected directly to the fermenter inlet (the whole path is kettle/hop back/ pump/throttling valve/chiller/hose to fermenter/yeast injector/ oxygenator/fermenter). There are various reasons for doing it this way such as that it is easy to sanitize the assembly by attaching the inlet of the hopback to a reservoir of sanitizer and subsequently to boiling water (to rinse the sanitizer out) and that the pump (typical fractional horsepower homebrewer's pump) primes by gravity (if I had it at the outlet of the chiller it wouldn't prime. Thus large oxygen bubbles never pass through the pump and while I would expect them to have an effect on the pump's performance (it will cavitate) I don't think that it would be much of a problem, other than less throughput, as the pump parts will stay wet. OTOH I don't see any reason why you could not put the inline oxygenator downstream of the pump and avoid any bubble related problems, small or large. Then again, if the bubbles are that large you are pushing too much (from the waste perspective - large bubbles obviously aren't dissolving) oxygen. A quick search on the web will turn up a fair amount of information on candi sugar most of which (the information that is) seems to come from homebrewers. There appear to be two major opinions - one of which is that it is invert sugar which has been subjected to enough heat in the inversion process to caramelize it to some extent. The other is that it is basically what we call "rock candy" in the US i.e. sugar crystals grown on a string from a saturated solution with the color induced when the crystals are dried in an oven. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 10:31:50 -0600 From: Joe Katchever <joe at pearlstreetbrewery.com> Subject: re: oxygenation Hi Jeff- the proper way to do it would be to go from kettle >pump>chiller>o2 infusion>.fermenter. The unabsorbed gas will cavitate your pump assuming it is centrifical. Also, depending on what typoe of chiller you have, the gas could pocket inside of it, reducing it's effectiveness. Cheers, - -- Joe La Crosse Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 09:04:26 -0800 From: Tim Bray <tbray at wildblue.net> Subject: Re: Belgian sugar and "candi" According to Stan Hieronymus in "Brew like a Monk," Belgian brewers use whatever sugar they want. They generally do not use the stuff we call "candi sugar" (rock crystals) because it's too expensive for the purpose. Most of them apparently use whatever sugar they can get easily and cheaply - sucrose or dextrose. The main purpose of adding sugar is to produce a drier beer, with a thinner body and less maltiness. You can do that with any kind of sugar. For darker beers, some Belgian breweries use caramel syrup, which is not a widely available ingredient in North America. This was originally the stuff called "candi sugar." Heironymus says the stuff sold in Europe as "candysugar" is a partly caramelized sugar in either granular or liquid form, produced by Candico in Antwerp. Maybe that's what you saw in the supermarkets? It will produce a different flavor profile than either white or brown sugar, and if you're really trying to duplicate a specific Belgian strong dark, you might need it. Mosher has a recipe for making it yourself. In any case, it's clear that there is no single kind of sugar use by Belgian brewers, so you are free to use whatever you want and it will be among the "standard Belgian ingredients." Cheers, Tim in Albion, CA > Bottom line to question: Is the bag of brown-colored sugar > that is found in ordinary Belgian supermarkets and in the > kitchen cupboards of Belgian households in fact the type of > sugar that is among the "standard Belgian [brewing] ingredients"? > Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 11:13:38 -0800 (PST) From: Matt <baumssl27 at yahoo.com> Subject: candi Larry asks specifically about "stuff labeled 'candi' sugar in Belgian supermarkets" that "looks, feels, tastes and is priced every bit like the ordinary brown sugar that is available in every US supermarket"--and the question is does the brown color in this particular product come from molasses or caramel? Hopefully someone can answer more definitively than I can, but if not maybe this will help: The larger crystalline form you mention, which as you note is served with coffee in Belgium sometimes, is brown from caramel and is the same stuff sold for a pretty penny in US homebrewing stores for making Belgian style beer. It's sucrose crystals with some caramel(ization). I was not aware that "candi" is available in granules the size of US brown sugar--I suspect that these are also caramelized rather than brown from molasses, but anyway a quick comparison of ingredients may be helpful to verify they are the same. As for brewing application--the Belgian dark ales are generally dark from caramel only, with no dark/roasted grains in the recipe. You need a LOT of caramel to get that dark. I don't think it's possible to do it with a reasonable amount (say 20% of fermentables) of the crystalline stuff I've seen. I suspect the smaller granules have the same problem. A dark caramel "candi" syrup CAN darken significantly and is often used by Belgian breweries. I am not sure if any breweries use the crystalline brown form but anyway it won't add anything that is out of character. Hope that helps. Matt Return to table of contents
HTML-ized on 01/18/09, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96 |