HOMEBREW Digest #553 Tue 11 December 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  honey in beer (chip upsal)
  Coriander recipe (kevin vang)
  Williams Address (b11!mspe5!guy)
  Lime 'n' Lager, Shandy, Snakebite, etc. (KOHR)
  Home distillation (Jay Hersh)
  Mead fruits (flowers)
  MIssing Messages (Rad Equipment)
  Lagering/conditioning keg temperature? (Chris Shenton)
  It's too cold! (Michael J. McCaughey)
  spent grains & bread (durbin)
  Radler (GS) <mb at Princeton.EDU>
  Stainless Steel pot (GS) <mb at Princeton.EDU>
  Clarity and Cleanliness (barstow)
  saving slurry (mike_schrempp)
  Request in HBD #552 (Gary Heston (sci34hub!gary))
  Homebrew Digest #552 (December 07, 1990) ("Dan Schwarz")
  In search of cosmic awareness and a good beer (Bill Thacker)
  Rapids/Foxx (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Soda Kegs (Dave Suurballe)
  Mead yeast ("FEINSTEIN")
  Bulk malt extract verses cans (Clarence Dold)
  shandy (Clarence Dold)
  Another stuck ferment (Tom Maszerowski)
  Dave Miller's Cont Pils (Norm Hardy)
  Nitrogen & Guinness (hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!att!drutx!homer)
  Non-alcoholic beverages (Paul Schmidt)
  Yeast Stuff ("William F. Pemberton")
  Re: Homebrew Digest #551 (December 06, 1990) (Perry A. Trunick)
  Re: Glass fermentation locks (Todd Koumrian)
  patriotic duty (chip upsal)

Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com [Please do not send me requests for back issues] Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 07 Dec 90 07:53:32 EST From: chip upsal <70731.3556 at compuserve.com> Subject: honey in beer Dwain ask about honey in beer. I have had much luck in adding honey to beer. I have added it to a barleywine and some lagers. Fermentation can be upwards of two months. I have used form one to two and a half pounds. The lagers turned out well nice light charactor; however, it took almost a year of ageing for them to be at peak. Due to the already complex charactor of the barleywine, I cannot detect the honey at all. If you have the time honey can be an exelent adjunct. Chip Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 90 08:51:26 CST From: kevin vang <MN033302 at VM1.NoDak.EDU> Subject: Coriander recipe To the person looking for recipes using coriander: In the brand new Zymurgy (just came in the mail yesterday) there is a recipe in the Winner's Circle column by Ray Spangler which uses lots of coriander, along with some other pretty intriguing ingredients. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 8:40:17 CST From: ingr!b11!mspe5!guy at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Williams Address >Date: Thu, 06 Dec 90 08:02:48 EST >From: Joe Uknalis <UKNALIS at VTVM1.CC.VT.EDU> >Subject: thanks & addresses > > >Two suppliers who have been mentioned a bit are Foxx and Williams, >can anyone post their addresses? > >thanks I can't help you with the Foxx address but here's William's: William's Brewing P.O. Box 2195 San Leandro, CA. 94577 Brewing away in Alabama, - -- ============================================================================ Guy D. McConnell | |"Good times and Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL. | Opinions expressed | riches and son Mass Storage Peripheral Evaluation | are mine and do not | of a bitches, Tape Products | necessarily reflect | I've seen more uunet!ingr!b11!mspe5!guy | Intergraph's. | than I can recall" (205)730-6289 FAX (205)730-6011 | |--Jimmy Buffett-- ============================================================================ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 10:30:20 -0500 From: KOHR at ll.mit.edu Subject: Lime 'n' Lager, Shandy, Snakebite, etc. All this talk of Lime 'n' Lager, Shandy, and Snakebite mixes of lagers with various fruit juices and soft drinks reminds me that the Commonwealth Brewing Company here in Boston serves very fine shandies and snakebites. They also serve several mixtures of lagers with fruit preserves, which I believe is a traditional German aperitif. (Can't remember what those mixes are called, though.) Are there any other places out there serving these drinks too? David R. Kohr M.I.T. Lincoln Laboratory Group 45 ("Radars 'R' Us") email: KOHR at LL.LL.MIT.EDU phone: (617)527-3908 (home), (617)981-0775 (work) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 10:42:49 EST From: hersh at coco.ctc.tasc.com (Jay Hersh) Subject: Home distillation Cathy Young asks about stills, well this isn't exactly a still, but it will do for distilling, is more portable and disassembles to avoid detection The idea is this. Get a big pot with a hemispherical lid (like the kind you find on woks). Put the fermented beer that you wish to turn into whiskey (or other low alcohol substance you wish to increase in potency) into the pot. You'll also nee a bowl (stainless steel mixing bowl will do well) whose diameter is ~2/3 the diameter of the pot. Now what you do is this. You put the stuff you want to distill into the pot, you float the bowl on top of it. On top of the pot you invert the hemispherical lid, and on top of the lid you put ice. You then heat the pot so that the mixture gets above the boiling temp for alcohol, but below theboiling temp for water (you've got about a 20 degree range to work with there). The alcohol will evaporate, hit the inverted lid which is chilled by the ice and condense, falling back into the floating bowl. This setup is cheap, easy to use, and should work pretty well. I have yet to try it but seems like an easy logical way to convert a low alcohol ferment into a stronger product, whatever that may be. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 10:36:37 CST From: flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu Subject: Mead fruits I went through one of those super-stores last night looking for an appropriate fruit to steep in my mead. I've decided that December is not a good time to buy 5 pounds of fruit. (No kidding!) Anyway, I was wondering if anyone (Feinstein? Karplus? Anyone else?) has used pineapple or kiwi in a mead. Kiwi makes a good juice but I know little about the fruit itself. Pineapple may have a bit too much acid. These are available here all year. -Craig Flowers (flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Dec 89 08:41:51 From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU> Subject: MIssing Messages REGARDING MIssing Messages Hmmm. I posted several responses to HBD #550 which didn't show up by #552. It may be they never got out of my system so I am combining them here for another attempt at posting. Sorry if they are redundant. RW... ***Regarding Jay Hersh's comment in HBD #550 > Replacing the seals and fittings is possible but it ends up costing as much or more than buying a reconditioned keg. I have had great success finding used 5 gal. kegs thru restaurant suppliers, 2nd hand shops, garage sales, and right off the soda truck. These kegs range in price from $10.00 to $22.00. Replacing ALL the O-rings and both poppet valves costs about $7.00 when you buy the materials from places like Foxx. Even if you go with the "super" lid ring from Williams, which isn't a bad idea with older kegs, the cost of the parts only goes to about $15.00 bringing the total to $25.00 - $37.00 tops. From what I have seen locally and mail order, the price for reconditioned kegs usally begins at $40.00. ***In HBD #549 Joe Uknalis <UKNALIS at VTVM1.CC.VT.EDU> asks about costs in building a tapped refridgerator for beer. I estimate mine cost about $100.00 to convert to a 3 faucet system. The box (16cu. ft.) was free from a friend, the 20lb. CO2 tank was next to nothing from a garage sale, the regulator was $35.00 (2 gague Corn.), and the rest came from Foxx Beverage in Denver for the above mentioned $100.00. I plumbed a 1/4" copper line in for the gas to a 3 way distributor with check valves to which there are 36" braided gas lines with ball gas connectors for the soda kegs. There are three faucets through the door (I replaced the shelf unit inside the door with that stuff you put around bathtubs and showers, a sort of glazed masonite material). The faucets are set up to 1/4" beverage lines with ball-end connectors. I also put a lockable box around the faucets on the front of the thing to keep dirt and unauthorized access out. I plan to expand to accomodate Liberty Ale kegs soon, I have the tap (also from Foxx, about $40.00) since I figure I can fit 1 Sanke keg and 2 soda canisters inside the box. It is certainly the way to go if you have the room and can do the work (or you have a friend who can). Only down side is that the kegs seem to hold less now that I have set the system up, can't figure out how that can be...<grin> Sorry, but I can't seem to find Foxx's address/P# here at work. I'll post it over the weekend from home if it isn't supplied by another reader. ***With all these keg sanitizing instructions going around I thought I'd toss out another tidbit. Several brewer/chemist friends have told me that adding a bit of baking soda to the bleach solution will buffer it so as to cause less of a reaction between the chlorine and the stainless without hampering the effectiveness of the sterilant. Any of you heard anything like this? Russ Wigglesworth <Rad Equipment at RadMac1.ucsf.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 11:44:06 EST From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Lagering/conditioning keg temperature? I've got my first attempt at kegging -- a lager -- in the fridge, trying to condition. I say `trying' cuz it's been in there 3 weeks under about 20 psi and still refuses to fizz. The temperature is about 33F -- is this too cold to allow natural carbonation? What is the proper temp for lagering and conditioning? -- I. M. Ignorant Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 11:59:50 PST From: mrmike at uigelf.ece.uiuc.edu (Michael J. McCaughey) Subject: It's too cold! My brewspace is in a house converted to apartments, and the age of the house (and its furnace) and the fact that the ONLY thermostat is located in someone elses' apartment have combined to give what may be a too cold environment for brewing. Ambient temps range from 50-65F. My current batch of PA may have a problem because of this. I pitched at 75F, and wrapped my 5 gal. carboy in a heavy blanket. Fermentation was strong for 24Hrs (good blow-off), but nearly stopped after 36hrs. Carboy temp is around 60F. Is this too cold? Someone mentioned using a acquarium heater to maintain temp. How well does this work? How do you keep things sanitary? Anyone have any suggestions for good heater models and setups? And is my ferment stuck, or am I worrying? Tnks&Rgds, mrmike - ---------------------- <include std.disclaimer > ------------------------- * Internet: mrmike at uiuc.edu * "I'm not a liberal, so I * * DECnet: UIGELA::MRMIKE * have a poor grasp of * * Snail: Optical and Discharge Physics * things I know nothing * * University of Illinois * about." * * 1406 W Green St. Urbana, IL 61801* - P. J. O'Rourke * * * * - ------ Happiness is a warm gun.............I'm the NRA ------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:30:35 EST From: durbin%cuavax.dnet at netcon.cua.edu Subject: spent grains & bread I made some bread last night from spent grains from mashing and it came out tasty, sorta like cracked wheat bread. If anyone is interested we dried the grains in the oven on warm so we could store them and then mixed one cup in a recipe for wheat bread. How did everyone else who made bread use the grains? Prosit ! Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:44:30 EST From: Matthias Blumrich (GS) <mb at Princeton.EDU> Subject: Radler In HB.552, Norm Hardy writes: >When I saw the word on yesterday's postings I was reminded of a nice >beverage while in Germany this summer. When we (wife Karen and I) asked >what it was the reply was "half beer and half lemonaid (or 7-up type pop)". >The beer half was usually a helles. It was sweet, refreshing, and quite >drinkable, even for a beer purist like me. > >I don't recall seeing Radler in 84 or 87. Perhaps it is recently more >popular. It seems a generic name and not a brand name. Radler actually means "bicycle rider" in German. This drink came about because bicycle riders liked to stop for some refreshment, but didn't want to ingest too much alcohol for fear they would lose their balance. They could not, however, resist a brew with lunch. So, they watered it down with lemonade. Today they usually add Sprite. It is actually very good, especially in the summertime. - Matt - Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:50:07 EST From: Matthias Blumrich (GS) <mb at Princeton.EDU> Subject: Stainless Steel pot Two weeks ago I picked up a 5 gal. stainless steel pot with a lid for $30.00 (normally $50.00) at Macy's. I had been eyeing it for about two weeks before that, so they may still be selling them at a Macy's near you! - Matt - Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:45:20 EST From: barstow at apollo.hp.com Subject: Clarity and Cleanliness I'm a beginner (fourth batch is percolating away right now) with some rather naive questions about clarity. Two of my batches were very clear, one was quite cloudy, and the current batch (now in the secondary) looks like it will be cloudy, too. Neither the cloudy batch nor the current batch had Irish moss in the boil. So: Is there any harm in tossing Irish moss into any and every recipe during the boil? Is there something better than Irish moss? If the beer is cloudy after it's sat in the secondary for a while, should I add isinglass (or something else)? I've heard a couple of opinions about using isinglass -- some say add it to the secondary 24-48 hours before racking, others say add it after racking and just before bottling. What's best? While I'm at it, a few sanitation questions: For mixing B-Brite, I've seen both 1 teaspoon/gallon and 1 tablespoon/gallon as the correct strength. I've used 1 tsp/gallon without any (apparent) problems, but am I running a risk at that concentration? To sanitize a container, how long must the B-Brite be in contact with it? Is simple contact enough (pour in, pour out) or must it sit for some period of time? When I clean out my glass carboy after bottling, can I sanitize it then (along with its cap), store it capped for perhaps a couple of months, and then use it without re-sanitizing it? Thank you in advance for your help. And thank you, Rob, for administering this digest -- I've been reading it for all of 3 weeks and have learned a lot. Tom Barstow barstow at apollo.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Dec 90 09:34 -0800 From: mike_schrempp%29 at hp4200.desk.hp.com Subject: saving slurry I have a question on reusing yeast slurry from the bottom of the fermenter. Is this the slurry from the primary or the secondary? Mike Schrempp Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 09:29 CST From: gary at sci34hub.sci.com (Gary Heston (sci34hub!gary)) Subject: Request in HBD #552 >From: ssiwest!young at llnl (indi) >Subject: Patriotic Duty... > I have been requested to post this by a friend at Gillead Sciences > in Foster City, CA: > A friend of ours is going to Saudi Arabia soon, with the army. > He wants to know how to make a *still*. [ed. While this is not > related to *beer*, it is related to *brewing*, right? Do our > friend from Alabama know? ;-)] He wants to get the equipment > to build it before he gets shipped over there. Which friend from Alabama? I think there's three or four of us.... I have at home a book that shows how to make stills in 5 gal, 55 gal, and too-big-to-hide-in-Saudi sizes. Basically, the small one is a pressure cooker with a tubing fitting replacing the relief valve, feeding to a condenser made with a coil of copper tubing in a 5 gal bucket thru which water is circulated. (I think this would basically be a counterflow-type chiller, except the wort doesn't get pumped thru. No pump needed. :-) ) Dump mash into cooker, let ferment, place on stove, hook up condenser, and collect. Everything must be clean, of course. I'll get in touch with Cindy and mail photocopies, or something. (Don't have a GIF scanner here, or anything useful like that. :-) ) > [ed. I recently heard that the most requested item in letters > written to friends in the US by US military, uh, members, is, > yes, YEAST! Would you beleive? I wonder if they have any > email connections out there... > So, can any of you help him??!?! I guess we should consider it > our patriotic duty...] I'll try; I guess I'm slightly qualified--one of my uncles (now dead) made moonshine at one time. I'm also p.o.'d at the Saudis over them not permitting our guys to display flags ( :-( !!), but that's not a brewing topic. Gary Heston System Mismanager and technoflunky uunet!sci34hub!gary or My opinions, not theirs. SCI Systems, Inc. gary at sci34hub.sci.com The sysadmin sees all, knows all, and doesn't tell the boss who's updating their resumes.... This .sig Copyright G. L. Heston, 1990 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 16:30:41 est From: "Dan Schwarz" <dan at chaos.cs.brandeis.edu> Subject: Homebrew Digest #552 (December 07, 1990) please remove me from your mailing list. I can't handle the disk space anymore. -Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 12:48:45 EST From: Bill Thacker <hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!cbema!wbt> Subject: In search of cosmic awareness and a good beer A friend and I have decided to try our hand at homebrewing. Neither of us has any experience, but learning should be fun enough in itself. I'm interested in producing Real Ale, and I intend to see to it that my friend is, also. 8-) Fortunately, Columbus Ohio has a store (two, actually) which caters to winemakers and brewers, called, surprisingly enough, The Winemaker's Shop. They have an "Introductory Package" for just under $40 which includes a plastic primary fermenting tub, a glass secondary fermenter (narrow-mouth), and various airlocks and bits of tubing. This, plus raw materials and bottles, caps, and a capper, is supposed to be everything you need to make beer. It's certainly cheap enough; surprisingly so, in fact. The consumer in me is wondering if it wouldn't be better to spend a bit more capital for "better" equipment. (This naturally presumes that there's something wrong with the stuff above). I've looked back enough times and said, "gee, if I'd spent a little more at the start, I'd have saved a lot in the long run," so before I bought this outfit, I figured I'd ask you experts for advice. What would you recommend for starting eqippment ? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Bill Thacker AT&T Network Systems - Columbus wbt at cbnews.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 14:47:12 mst From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Rapids/Foxx Marc quotes chris: -> Rapids Inc: 1011 2nd Ave SW; P.O. Box 396; Cedar Rapids, IA 52406; -> 800-553-7906. Restaurant wholesale equipment. Most interesting: 10 gal 20 -> gauge stainless pot: $80; matching lid: $20. The pot is quality, and it's -> a good company with which to do business. [chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov] I've got a Rapids 1990 catalog right in front of me and on p. 152, here's the prices for SS stock pots (these prices are 50% off the listed prices because that's how Rapids prices their products, in any event these are the prices you will pay): STAINLESS STEEL STOCK POTS QUARTS PRICE SHIPPING WT. LID PRICE 8 $37.50 4lb $7.50 12 40.00 6 10.00 16 51.50 6 14.00 20 59.00 7 14.00 24 63.00 9 14.00 40 84.00 12 19.00 64 125.00 22 20.00 80 185.00 23 20.00 ALUMINUM STOCK POTS QUARTS PRICE SHIPPING WT. LID PRICE 10 $20.25 4 $4.75 12 22.25 4.5 4.75 16 26.00 5 4.75 20 28.25 6 6.75 40 42.75 8 7.75 They also have other interesting items that could be of use in our breweries, such as CHINA CAP STRAINERS (Heavy gauge stainless steel. 9" diameter. Fine mesh. $20.50). I haven't purchased anything from them yet, so I cannot give you any reliability information. I have, however, purchased from Foxx and I highly recommend them. Their price for new, 5 gallon, ball lock Cornelius kegs is $71.88. I bought three, got them in immaculate shape, they all have relief valves and I'm very happy with them. Foxx also carries, hoses, taps, fittings, regulators, tanks, replacement parts for Cornelius and Firestone tanks, and many other beverage-related products. Ask about their "homebrew kegging kit." It comes with everything you need and you can upgrade to a two-gauge regulator or a larger CO2 tank for extra money. The only problem is that they don't take credit cards -- you have to call, place your order, then wait for them to call you back with a price after they have weighed your package, send them a check and wait for your UPS delivery. Foxx Equipment Company 421 Southwest Blvd. Kansas City, MO 64108 1-800-821-2254 Ask for John (homebrew expert and homebrewer) Foxx Equipment Company 955 Decatur St. - Unit B Denver, CO 80204 1-800-525-2484 One final note. I forgot one step in my keg cleaning procedure: Just before installing the lid for final assembly, I soak the lid in bleach solution for a minute or two and then rinse in hot water a few times. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 10:46:40 PST From: hsfmsh.UUCP!suurb at cgl.ucsf.EDU (Dave Suurballe) Subject: Soda Kegs Reply-To: hsfmsh!suurb at uunet.uu.net Yet another answer to Mark Nevar's soda can questions: I store my tanks clean, upside down, and disassembled. When I need one, I soak all the parts (lid, relief valve, big o-ring, two little o-rings, gas tube, liquid tube, two poppets, and two valve bodies) in a bleach solution for 10 or 15 minutes. Then I reassemble the tank and fill it with a bleach solution and let it sit for 15 or 20 minutes. Then I push the bleach out with CO2 applied in the normal way. I don't rinse. The bleach solution is one fluid ounce per two gallons of water. According to what I've been reading lately, this is way more than enough, but I haven't altered my procedure yet. Bleach is hard on stainless, so don't leave it in there too long. The Cornelius Company in Anoka, Minnesota has a tank lid exchange program. Send them your unsafe Cornelius lids, and they replace them with safe ones free. I said this just last week. I'm interested in WYeast attenuation by strain. If nobody else is, you can mail it to me directly. The address in the Reply-To line has worked in the past. Suurb Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Dec 90 16:44:00 EDT From: "FEINSTEIN" <crf at pine.circa.ufl.edu> Subject: Mead yeast Hi there! I'm sorry to be jumping into this thread so late, but it was unavoidable. Yes, Montrechet (by Red Star) seems to be the most popular mead yeast. I certainly like it. Apart from that, a chablis yeast is generally a good bet, although champagne yeast is quite popular. It is possible to use quite a variety of yeasts, although I myself have not done so. For ideas, see Acton & Duncan's book on mead. Vierka makes a mead yeast, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet. Nor have I encountered or used any liquid mead cultures. A word of advice: if you make your mead by the gallon, as many people (myself included) do, make a starter culture of warm water and honey in a clean jar. It's the best way to avoid putting 5 gallons worth of yeast into a 1 gallon batch! Please excuse my brevity, but time is short. Anyone with questions is welcome to contact me directly. Yours in Carbonation, Cher "Apart from that, Mrs. Lincoln, did you enjoy the play?" ============================================================================= Cheryl Feinstein INTERNET: CRF at PINE.CIRCA.UFL.EDU Univ. of Fla. BITNET: CRF at UFPINE Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:51:36 PST From: Clarence Dold <dold at tsdold.Convergent.COM> Subject: Bulk malt extract verses cans > >From: Marc Rouleau <mer6g at virginia.edu> > Subject: Pasteurized versus Unpasteurized Extract? > his quality is also superior. He gets "commercial grade" extract in > 55 gallon drums and repackages it in 6 lb plastic tubs. He says that Most canned Malt Extracts have been diluted to make the extract less viscous, so that it can be packed by machine. It is usually diluted with brewers syrup, which has the same percentage of fermentables as the original extract. 55 gallon drums don't have the additional syrup. The Australian Homebrew that I import is a Hopped Malt Extract that is hand packed in poly bags, and is noticeably thicker than the extract from a can, although the percentage of fermentables measures about the same. - -- - --- Clarence A Dold - dold at tsmiti.Convergent.COM (408) 435-5293 ...pyramid!ctnews!tsmiti!dold FAX (408) 435-3105 P.O.Box 6685, San Jose, CA 95150-6685 MS#10-007 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:53:04 PST From: Clarence Dold <dold at tsdold.Convergent.COM> Subject: shandy > From: Arun Welch <welch at cis.ohio-state.edu> > Subject: Lime in Beer > A shandy, (or shandygaff, which it's the short form for), is 1/2 and > 1/2 beer and lemonade. At the bar I worked at for a time in northern > Germany it was called a moorwasser (Moor water, as it looks like the > water in a swamp). In England it's typically known as a women's drink, As a homebrewer, I have realized that there are many divergent ideas about how beer should taste, including those who think Bud is better than mine. That's fine, I can accept that. But I can't understand how anyone could enjoy a shandy! While travelling in England, I made sure that I tried one of each variety on tap in each of the pubs I visited. Some good, some bad, but the shandy was disgusting... I always finished the night with a half of Guiness Draught. It's hard to believe that it's from the same company as the bottles. - -- - --- Clarence A Dold - dold at tsmiti.Convergent.COM (408) 435-5293 ...pyramid!ctnews!tsmiti!dold FAX (408) 435-3105 P.O.Box 6685, San Jose, CA 95150-6685 MS#10-007 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 90 11:43:29 EST From: moscom!tcm at ee.rochester.edu (Tom Maszerowski) Subject: Another stuck ferment A stuck ferment: This is getting to be pretty common for me. The latest is an Oatmeal Stout ( recipe from the Digest ) that I had hoped to have ready for Christmas 1990. I started November 17, using 21 grams of Munton&Fison dry yeast. Fermentation was great for about 2 days then died off rapidly. I added 11.5 grams of EDME dry yeast after a week but this had no observable effect. Today, December 9, I checked to SG only to find that it was 1.040, O.G. was 1.068. Again today I added 11.5 grams of EDME yeast and stirred everything up, hoping that the fresh yeast and O2 might do something. My basement stays at 68o F almost constantly. This is the fourth such problem I have had in two years. I've used both dry and liquid yeast, different malts, etc. Is it me, my ingredients, or what? Thanks for any help, in advance. A tense, worried homebrewer, Tom Maszerowski tcm at moscom.com {rit,tropix,ur-valhalla}!moscom!tcm Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 90 14:19:31 PST From: polstra!norm at uunet.UU.NET (Norm Hardy) Subject: Dave Miller's Cont Pils Craig Flowers spent some time flaming me for expressing a recommendation to not buy Miller's book. He missed the point, sad to say. Simply put, there are many people who will not profit from the purchase of the book; many are on the homebrew network. The AHA is profitting from excessive hype and marketing. It's part of the Rah, Rah mentality that Chuck Papazian tries to espouse, along with the useful but often misused saying of "relax, don't worry, have a(nother) homebrew." The AHA is now touting the "Classic Styles" series, while the authors are writing as fast as possible to get the product out the door. It is that very thing that pervades these books and for that I am disappointed. A regular reader of Zymurgy doesn't need the extra expense. Finally, I didn't already know everything in the book; there is always more to learn. Norm Hardy Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 90 22:17:15 mst From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!att!drutx!homer Subject: Nitrogen & Guinness Last year I barrowed a video tape from Guinness that explained their use of Nitrogen to dispense Guinness. The tape was intended for Guinness distributors in the US. They use a blend of 75% nitrogen and 25% CO2, at 30 psi. This pressure is at least twice the pressure that most beers use. If they used pure CO2 at that pressure the beer would be overcarbonated. If they used pure nitrogen, which will not go into solution, the beer would be flat. They demonstrate both the pure CO2 & nitrogen in the video. The 75/25 blend is what Guinness selected to provide the carbonation they want. Guinness also uses a special faucet in the bar. The Guinness faucet has a flow controller, and a restrictor. They recommend that the flow controller be set to full open. The restrictor has 5 holes in it and acts like the aireator that most sink faucets have. They claim that the blended glasses and the Guinness faucet give the beer the head that we know of from Guinness. Other items from the tape: Draught Guinness in the US is the same as in Ireland. Draught Guinness has 120 calories in 12 oz and 4% alcohol. A serving temperature of 40 to 45 degrees is preferred. The beer should be poured in one shot, instead of turning the tap on and off. Guinness Extra Stout, is 6% and more hoppy than Draught Guinness. For me, I am not going to worry about getting nitrogen for my stout. Jim Homer att!drutx!homer Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 90 21:50:53 EST From: hplabs!ames!rutgers!crdgw1.ge.com!kk4fs!pauls (Paul Schmidt) Subject: Non-alcoholic beverages Has anyone made rootbeer or other nonalcoholic beverages? I would be interested in trying to make a carbonated drink that my 3 year old could drink also. Any tips would be appreciated. Paul Schmidt - pauls at kk4fs.uucp Return to table of contents
Date: Mon Dec 10 10:18:06 1990 From: "William F. Pemberton" <wfp5p at euclid.acc.virginia.edu> Subject: Yeast Stuff I have a comment and a question for the yeast people. First, to whomever was looking to culture the yeast out of a bottle of Chimay. As was said before, it is (probably) not the same yeast as is used for the primary fermentation of Chimay. BUT the stuff must still be a pretty good yeast. The winner in this years' Belgian-Style catagory used cultured Chimay yeast. Now a question: Has anyone had any experience culturing the yeast out of either Thomas Hardy's Ale or Belhaven Scotch Ale? Thanks in advance! Bill Pemberton (flash at virginia.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 90 00:07:03 -0500 From: ag297 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Perry A. Trunick) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #551 (December 06, 1990) An anecdotal note on Chimay: In Belgium, I never found Chimay on tap. Always in bottles, and with the little symbol on the side indicating you should serve it in a goblet, not a glass. They use the old, slash (\) through the glass to indicate this. Also, there are so many versions: Blau being one I was partial to. Beers of a similar taste and texture. . .well, cousins if not beer brothers. . .were available in Bavaria and Berlin. The reason for the goblet and not the glass is to avoid getting the sediment stirred up while you were drinking. - -- The most important thing you have to know in life is yourself. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 1990 16:44:15 PST From: todd at NISC.SRI.COM (Todd Koumrian) Subject: Re: Glass fermentation locks In the SF Bay Area, BeerMakers in San Jose has the glass "S-shaped" fermentation locks and I think Great Fermentations lists them in their catalog. Return to table of contents
Date: 09 Dec 90 01:03:37 EST From: chip upsal <70731.3556 at compuserve.com> Subject: patriotic duty Concerning patriotic dutie in hbd 552 The following is for educational purposes only: I have heard of using a pressure cooker to cook the beer at 173 F -- the boiling point of alcohol; condensing the alcohol on a copper coil put over the hole in the top of the cookers lid -- the one the pressure regulater fits over. Then one could collect the liquor from the end of the copper. It is best to run the liquor through again. Chip Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #553, 12/11/90 ************************************* -------
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