---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  honey in beer (chip upsal)
  Coriander recipe (kevin vang)
  Williams Address (b11!mspe5!guy)
  Lime 'n' Lager, Shandy, Snakebite, etc. (KOHR)
  Home distillation (Jay Hersh)
  Mead fruits (flowers)
  MIssing Messages (Rad Equipment)
  Lagering/conditioning keg temperature? (Chris Shenton)
  It's too cold! (Michael J. McCaughey)
  spent grains & bread (durbin)
  Radler (GS) <mb at Princeton.EDU>
  Stainless Steel pot (GS) <mb at Princeton.EDU>
  Clarity and Cleanliness (barstow)
  saving slurry (mike_schrempp)
  Request in HBD #552 (Gary Heston (sci34hub!gary))
  Homebrew Digest #552 (December 07, 1990) ("Dan Schwarz")
  In search of cosmic awareness and a good beer (Bill Thacker)
  Rapids/Foxx (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Soda Kegs (Dave Suurballe)
  Mead yeast ("FEINSTEIN")
  Bulk malt extract verses cans (Clarence Dold)
  shandy (Clarence Dold)
  Another stuck ferment (Tom Maszerowski)
  Dave Miller's Cont Pils (Norm Hardy)
  Nitrogen & Guinness (hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!att!drutx!homer)
  Non-alcoholic beverages (Paul Schmidt)
  Yeast Stuff ("William F. Pemberton")
  Re: Homebrew Digest #551 (December 06, 1990) (Perry A. Trunick)
  Re: Glass fermentation locks (Todd Koumrian)
  patriotic duty (chip upsal)


Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues]
Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 07 Dec 90 07:53:32 EST
From: chip upsal <70731.3556 at compuserve.com>
Subject: honey in beer


Dwain ask about honey in beer.  I have had much luck in adding honey to
beer.  I have added it to  a barleywine and some lagers.  Fermentation can
be upwards of two months.  I have used form one to two and a half pounds.
The lagers turned out well nice light charactor; however, it took almost a
year of ageing for them to be at peak.  Due to the already complex
charactor of the barleywine, I cannot detect the honey at all.

If you have the time honey can be an exelent adjunct.

Chip


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Date:         Fri, 07 Dec 90 08:51:26 CST
From: kevin vang <MN033302 at VM1.NoDak.EDU>
Subject:      Coriander recipe

To the person looking for recipes using coriander:
In the brand new Zymurgy (just came in the mail yesterday) there is a recipe in
 the Winner's Circle column by Ray Spangler which uses lots of coriander, along
with some other pretty intriguing ingredients.

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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 8:40:17 CST
From: ingr!b11!mspe5!guy at uunet.UU.NET
Subject: Williams Address

>Date:         Thu, 06 Dec 90 08:02:48 EST
>From: Joe Uknalis <UKNALIS at VTVM1.CC.VT.EDU>
>Subject:      thanks & addresses
>
>
>Two suppliers who have been mentioned a bit are Foxx and Williams,
>can anyone post their addresses?
>
>thanks

    I can't help you with the Foxx address but here's William's:

		William's Brewing
		P.O. Box 2195
		San Leandro, CA. 94577

Brewing away in Alabama,
- -- 
============================================================================
 Guy D. McConnell                   |                     |"Good times and
 Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL.   | Opinions expressed  | riches and son
 Mass Storage Peripheral Evaluation | are mine and do not | of a bitches,
 Tape Products                      | necessarily reflect | I've seen more
 uunet!ingr!b11!mspe5!guy           | Intergraph's.       | than I can recall"
 (205)730-6289   FAX (205)730-6011  |                     |--Jimmy Buffett--
============================================================================


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Date: Fri,  7 Dec 90 10:30:20 -0500
From: KOHR at ll.mit.edu
Subject: Lime 'n' Lager, Shandy, Snakebite, etc.

All this talk of Lime 'n' Lager, Shandy, and Snakebite mixes of lagers with
various fruit juices and soft drinks reminds me that the Commonwealth
Brewing Company here in Boston serves very fine shandies and snakebites.
They also serve several mixtures of lagers with fruit preserves, which
I believe is a traditional German aperitif.  (Can't remember what those
mixes are called, though.)  Are there any other places out there serving
these drinks too?

David R. Kohr    M.I.T. Lincoln Laboratory    Group 45 ("Radars 'R' Us")
        email: KOHR at LL.LL.MIT.EDU
        phone: (617)527-3908 (home), (617)981-0775 (work)

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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 10:42:49 EST
From: hersh at coco.ctc.tasc.com (Jay Hersh)
Subject: Home distillation


Cathy Young asks about stills, well this isn't exactly a still, but it will
do for distilling, is more portable and disassembles to avoid detection

The idea is this. Get a big pot with a hemispherical lid (like the kind you
find on woks). Put the fermented beer that you wish to turn into whiskey
(or other low alcohol substance you wish to increase in potency) into 
the pot. You'll also nee a bowl (stainless steel mixing bowl will do well)
whose diameter is ~2/3 the diameter of the pot.

Now what you do is this. You put the stuff you want to distill into the pot,
you float the bowl on top of it. On top of the pot you invert the 
hemispherical lid, and on top of the lid you put ice. You then heat the
pot so that the mixture gets above the boiling temp for alcohol, but 
below theboiling temp for water (you've got about a 20 degree range to 
work with there). The alcohol will evaporate, hit the inverted lid which 
is chilled by the ice and condense, falling back into the floating bowl.

This setup is cheap, easy to use, and should work pretty well. I have yet 
to try it but seems like an easy logical way to convert a low alcohol 
ferment into a stronger product, whatever that may be.


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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 10:36:37 CST
From: flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu
Subject: Mead fruits

I went through one of those super-stores last night looking for an
appropriate fruit to steep in my mead.  I've decided that December is not a
good time to buy 5 pounds of fruit.  (No kidding!)  Anyway, I was wondering
if anyone (Feinstein? Karplus?  Anyone else?) has used pineapple or kiwi in
a mead.  Kiwi makes a good juice but I know little about the fruit itself. 
Pineapple may have a bit too much acid.  These are available here all year.

 -Craig Flowers  (flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu)

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Date: 7 Dec 89 08:41:51
From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU>
Subject: MIssing Messages

REGARDING                MIssing Messages
Hmmm.  I posted several responses to HBD #550 which didn't show up by #552.  It
may be they never got out of my system so I am combining them here for another
attempt at posting.  Sorry if they are redundant.  RW...

***Regarding Jay Hersh's comment in HBD #550

> Replacing the seals and fittings is possible but it ends up costing as    
much or more than buying a reconditioned keg.

I have had great success finding used 5 gal. kegs thru restaurant suppliers,
2nd hand shops, garage sales, and right off the soda truck.  These kegs range
in price from $10.00 to $22.00.  Replacing ALL the O-rings and both poppet
valves costs about $7.00 when you buy the materials from places like Foxx. 
Even if you go with the "super" lid ring from Williams, which isn't a bad idea
with older kegs, the cost of the parts only goes to about $15.00 bringing the
total to $25.00 - $37.00 tops.  From what I have seen locally and mail order,
the price for reconditioned kegs usally begins at $40.00.

***In HBD #549 Joe Uknalis <UKNALIS at VTVM1.CC.VT.EDU> asks about costs in
building a tapped refridgerator for beer.  I estimate mine cost about $100.00
to convert to a 3 faucet system.  The box (16cu. ft.) was free from a friend,
the 20lb. CO2 tank was next to nothing from a garage sale, the regulator was
$35.00 (2 gague Corn.), and the rest came from Foxx Beverage in Denver for the
above mentioned $100.00.  I plumbed a 1/4" copper line in for the gas to a 3
way distributor with check valves to which there are  36" braided gas lines
with ball gas connectors for the soda kegs.  There are three faucets through
the door (I replaced the shelf unit inside the door with that stuff you put
around bathtubs and showers, a sort of glazed masonite material).  The faucets
are set up to 1/4" beverage lines with ball-end connectors.  I also put a
lockable box around the faucets on the front of the thing to keep dirt and
unauthorized access out.  I plan to expand to accomodate Liberty Ale kegs soon,
I have the tap (also from Foxx, about $40.00) since I figure I can fit 1 Sanke
keg and 2 soda canisters inside the box.  It is certainly the way to go if you
have the room and can do the work (or you have a friend who can).  Only down
side is that the kegs seem to hold less now that I have set the system up,
can't figure out how that can be...<grin>

Sorry, but I can't seem to find Foxx's address/P# here at work.  I'll post it
over the weekend from home if it isn't supplied by another reader.

***With all these keg sanitizing instructions going around I thought I'd toss
out another tidbit.  Several brewer/chemist friends have told me that adding a
bit of baking soda to the bleach solution will buffer it so as to cause less of
a reaction between the chlorine and the stainless without hampering the
effectiveness of the sterilant.  Any of you heard anything like this?

Russ Wigglesworth  <Rad Equipment at RadMac1.ucsf.edu>



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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 11:44:06 EST
From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Lagering/conditioning keg temperature?

I've got my first attempt at kegging -- a lager -- in the fridge, trying to
condition. I say `trying' cuz it's been in there 3 weeks under about 20 psi
and still refuses to fizz. The temperature is about 33F -- is this too cold
to allow natural carbonation? What is the proper temp for lagering and
conditioning? 
			-- I. M. Ignorant

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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 11:59:50 PST
From: mrmike at uigelf.ece.uiuc.edu (Michael J. McCaughey)
Subject: It's too cold!


My brewspace is in a house converted to apartments, and the age of the
house (and its furnace) and the fact that the ONLY thermostat is located
in someone elses' apartment have combined to give what may be a too cold
environment for brewing. Ambient temps range from 50-65F.

My current batch of PA may have a problem because of this. I pitched at 75F,
and wrapped my 5 gal. carboy in a heavy blanket. Fermentation was strong
for 24Hrs (good blow-off), but nearly stopped after 36hrs. Carboy temp
is around 60F. Is this too cold?

Someone mentioned using a acquarium heater to maintain temp. How well
does this work? How do you keep things sanitary? Anyone have any suggestions
for good heater models and setups?

And is my ferment stuck, or am I worrying?

Tnks&Rgds,
mrmike
- ---------------------- <include std.disclaimer > -------------------------
* Internet: mrmike at uiuc.edu                  * "I'm not a liberal, so I  *
* DECnet:   UIGELA::MRMIKE                   *   have a poor grasp of    *
* Snail:    Optical and Discharge Physics    *   things I know nothing   *
*           University of Illinois           *   about."                 *
*           1406 W Green St. Urbana, IL 61801*     - P. J. O'Rourke      *
*                                            *                           *
- ------ Happiness is a warm gun.............I'm the NRA ------------------


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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:30:35 EST
From: durbin%cuavax.dnet at netcon.cua.edu
Subject: spent grains & bread

I made some bread last night from spent grains from mashing and it
came out tasty, sorta like cracked wheat bread. If anyone is interested
we dried the grains in the oven on warm so we could store them and then
mixed one cup in a recipe for wheat bread. How did everyone else who made
bread use the grains?
 Prosit !
  Phil

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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:44:30 EST
From: Matthias Blumrich (GS) <mb at Princeton.EDU>
Subject: Radler

In HB.552, Norm Hardy writes:
>When I saw the word on yesterday's postings I was reminded of a nice 
>beverage while in Germany this summer.  When we (wife Karen and I) asked
>what it was the reply was "half beer and half lemonaid (or 7-up type pop)".
>The beer half was usually a helles.  It was sweet, refreshing, and quite
>drinkable, even for a beer purist like me.  
>
>I don't recall seeing Radler in 84 or 87.  Perhaps it is recently more
>popular.  It seems a generic name and not a brand name.

Radler actually means "bicycle rider" in German.  This drink came about
because bicycle riders liked to stop for some refreshment, but didn't want
to ingest too much alcohol for fear they would lose their balance.  They
could not, however, resist a brew with lunch.  So, they watered it down with
lemonade.  Today they usually add Sprite.  It is actually very good, especially
in the summertime.
 - Matt -

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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:50:07 EST
From: Matthias Blumrich (GS) <mb at Princeton.EDU>
Subject: Stainless Steel pot

Two weeks ago I picked up a 5 gal. stainless steel pot with a lid for $30.00
(normally $50.00) at Macy's.  I had been eyeing it for about two weeks before
that, so they may still be selling them at a Macy's near you!
 - Matt -

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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:45:20 EST 
From: barstow at apollo.hp.com
Subject: Clarity and Cleanliness

I'm a beginner (fourth batch is percolating away right now) with some rather naive
questions about clarity.  Two of my batches were very clear, one was quite cloudy,
and the current batch (now in the secondary) looks like it will be cloudy, too.
Neither the cloudy batch nor the current batch had Irish moss in the boil.  So:

    Is there any harm in tossing Irish moss into any and every recipe
    during the boil?  Is there something better than Irish moss?
    
    If the beer is cloudy after it's sat in the secondary for a while,
    should I add isinglass (or something else)?
    
    I've heard a couple of opinions about using isinglass -- some say
    add it to the secondary 24-48 hours before racking, others say
    add it after racking and just before bottling.  What's best?

While I'm at it, a few sanitation questions:

    For mixing B-Brite, I've seen both 1 teaspoon/gallon and 1 tablespoon/gallon
    as the correct strength.  I've used 1 tsp/gallon without any (apparent)
    problems, but am I running a risk at that concentration?

    To sanitize a container, how long must the B-Brite be in contact with it?
    Is simple contact enough (pour in, pour out) or must it sit for some period
    of time?

    When I clean out my glass carboy after bottling, can I sanitize it then (along
    with its cap), store it capped for perhaps a couple of months, and then use it
    without re-sanitizing it?

Thank you in advance for your help.  And thank you, Rob, for administering
this digest -- I've been reading it for all of 3 weeks and have learned a lot.

Tom Barstow
barstow at apollo.hp.com

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Date:         7 Dec 90 09:34 -0800
From: mike_schrempp%29 at hp4200.desk.hp.com
Subject:     saving slurry

I have a question on reusing yeast slurry from the bottom of the fermenter.
Is this the slurry from the primary or the secondary?

Mike Schrempp


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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 09:29 CST
From: gary at sci34hub.sci.com (Gary Heston (sci34hub!gary))
Subject: Request in HBD #552

>From: ssiwest!young at llnl (indi)
>Subject: Patriotic Duty...

>        I have been requested to post this by a friend at Gillead Sciences
>        in Foster City, CA:

>        A friend of ours is going to Saudi Arabia soon, with the army.
>        He wants to know how to make a *still*.  [ed. While this is not
>        related to *beer*, it is related to *brewing*, right?  Do our
>        friend from Alabama know?  ;-)]  He wants to get the equipment
>        to build it before he gets shipped over there.

Which friend from Alabama? I think there's three or four of us....

I have at home a book that shows how to make stills in 5 gal, 55 gal, and
too-big-to-hide-in-Saudi sizes. Basically, the small one is a pressure
cooker with a tubing fitting replacing the relief valve, feeding to a
condenser made with a coil of copper tubing in a 5 gal bucket thru which
water is circulated. (I think this would basically be a counterflow-type
chiller, except the wort doesn't get pumped thru. No pump needed. :-) ) Dump
mash into cooker, let ferment, place on stove, hook up condenser, and
collect. Everything must be clean, of course. I'll get in touch with Cindy
and mail photocopies, or something. (Don't have a GIF scanner here, or
anything useful like that. :-) )

> [ed. I recently heard that the most requested item in letters
>        written to friends in the US by US military, uh, members, is,
>        yes, YEAST!  Would you beleive?  I wonder if they have any
>        email connections out there...
>        So, can any of you help him??!?!  I guess we should consider it
>        our patriotic duty...]

I'll try; I guess I'm slightly qualified--one of my uncles (now dead) made
moonshine at one time. I'm also p.o.'d at the Saudis over them not
permitting our guys to display flags ( :-( !!), but that's not a brewing
topic.

Gary Heston  System Mismanager and technoflunky  uunet!sci34hub!gary or
My opinions, not theirs.  SCI Systems, Inc.      gary at sci34hub.sci.com
  The sysadmin sees all, knows all, and doesn't tell the boss who's
  updating their resumes....  This .sig Copyright G. L. Heston, 1990

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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 16:30:41 est
From: "Dan Schwarz" <dan at chaos.cs.brandeis.edu>
Subject: Homebrew Digest #552 (December 07, 1990)

please remove me from your mailing list. I can't handle the disk space anymore.
 -Dan

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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 12:48:45 EST
From: Bill Thacker <hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!cbema!wbt>
Subject: In search of cosmic awareness and a good beer


A friend and I have decided to try our hand at homebrewing.   Neither
of us has any experience, but learning should be fun enough in itself.
I'm interested in producing Real Ale, and I intend to see to it that 
my friend is, also. 8-)  

Fortunately, Columbus Ohio has a store (two, actually) which caters
to winemakers and brewers, called, surprisingly enough, The Winemaker's
Shop.  They have an "Introductory Package" for just under $40 which
includes a plastic primary fermenting tub, a glass secondary fermenter 
(narrow-mouth), and various airlocks and bits of tubing.  This,
plus raw materials and bottles, caps, and a capper, is supposed to be
everything you need to make beer.

It's certainly cheap enough; surprisingly so, in fact.  The consumer
in me is wondering if it wouldn't be better to spend a bit more capital
for "better" equipment.  (This naturally presumes that there's something
wrong with the stuff above).  I've looked back enough times and said,
"gee, if I'd spent a little more at the start, I'd have saved a lot in
the long run," so before I bought this outfit, I figured I'd ask you
experts for advice.  What would you recommend for starting eqippment ?

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Bill Thacker	AT&T Network Systems - Columbus      wbt at cbnews.att.com



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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 14:47:12 mst
From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Rapids/Foxx

Marc quotes chris:
 -> Rapids Inc: 1011 2nd Ave SW; P.O.  Box 396; Cedar Rapids, IA 52406;
 -> 800-553-7906.  Restaurant wholesale equipment. Most interesting: 10 gal 20
 -> gauge stainless pot: $80; matching lid: $20.  The pot is quality, and it's
 -> a good company with which to do business. [chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov]

I've got a Rapids 1990 catalog right in front of me and on p. 152, here's
the prices for SS stock pots (these prices are 50% off the listed prices
because that's how Rapids prices their products, in any event these are
the prices you will pay):

STAINLESS STEEL STOCK POTS

QUARTS	PRICE	SHIPPING WT.	LID PRICE
8	$37.50	4lb		$7.50
12	 40.00	6		10.00
16	 51.50	6		14.00
20	 59.00	7		14.00
24	 63.00	9		14.00
40	 84.00	12		19.00
64	125.00	22		20.00
80	185.00	23		20.00

ALUMINUM STOCK POTS

QUARTS	PRICE	SHIPPING WT.	LID PRICE
10	$20.25	4		$4.75
12	 22.25	4.5		 4.75
16	 26.00	5		 4.75
20	 28.25	6		 6.75
40	 42.75	8		 7.75

They also have other interesting items that could be of use in
our breweries, such as CHINA CAP STRAINERS (Heavy gauge stainless
steel. 9" diameter. Fine mesh. $20.50).

I haven't purchased anything from them yet, so I cannot give you
any reliability information.


I have, however, purchased from Foxx and I highly recommend them.
Their price for new, 5 gallon, ball lock Cornelius kegs is $71.88.
I bought three, got them in immaculate shape, they all have relief
valves and I'm very happy with them.  Foxx also carries, hoses, taps,
fittings, regulators, tanks, replacement parts for Cornelius and
Firestone tanks, and many other beverage-related products.  Ask
about their "homebrew kegging kit."  It comes with everything you
need and you can upgrade to a two-gauge regulator or a larger
CO2 tank for extra money.  The only problem is that they don't take
credit cards -- you have to call, place your order, then wait
for them to call you back with a price after they have weighed
your package, send them a check and wait for your UPS delivery.

Foxx Equipment Company
421 Southwest Blvd.
Kansas City, MO 64108
1-800-821-2254
Ask for John (homebrew expert and homebrewer)

Foxx Equipment Company
955 Decatur St. - Unit B
Denver, CO 80204
1-800-525-2484


One final note.  I forgot one step in my keg cleaning procedure:
Just before installing the lid for final assembly, I soak the lid
in bleach solution for a minute or two and then rinse in hot water
a few times.

Al.


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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 10:46:40 PST
From: hsfmsh.UUCP!suurb at cgl.ucsf.EDU (Dave Suurballe)
Subject: Soda Kegs

Reply-To: hsfmsh!suurb at uunet.uu.net

Yet another answer to Mark Nevar's soda can questions:

I store my tanks clean, upside down, and disassembled.  When I need one,
I soak all the parts (lid, relief valve, big o-ring, two little o-rings,
gas tube, liquid tube, two poppets, and two valve bodies) in a bleach
solution for 10 or 15 minutes.  Then I reassemble the tank and fill it
with a bleach solution and let it sit for 15 or 20 minutes.  Then I
push the bleach out with CO2 applied in the normal way.  I don't rinse.

The bleach solution is one fluid ounce per two gallons of water.  According
to what I've been reading lately, this is way more than enough, but I haven't
altered my procedure yet.

Bleach is hard on stainless, so don't leave it in there too long.

The Cornelius Company in Anoka, Minnesota has a tank lid exchange program.
Send them your unsafe Cornelius lids, and they replace them with safe ones
free.  I said this just last week.

I'm interested in WYeast attenuation by strain.  If nobody else is, you can
mail it to me directly.  The address in the Reply-To line has worked in the
past.

Suurb

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Date: 7 Dec 90 16:44:00 EDT
From: "FEINSTEIN" <crf at pine.circa.ufl.edu>
Subject: Mead yeast

Hi there!

I'm sorry to be jumping into this thread so late, but it was unavoidable.

Yes, Montrechet (by Red Star) seems to be the most popular mead yeast.  I 
certainly like it.  Apart from that, a chablis yeast is generally a good bet, 
although champagne yeast is quite popular.

It is possible to use quite a variety of yeasts, although I myself have not 
done so.  For ideas, see Acton & Duncan's book on mead.

Vierka makes a mead yeast, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet.  Nor have 
I encountered or used any liquid mead cultures.

A word of advice:  if you make your mead by the gallon, as many people (myself 
included) do, make a starter culture of warm water and honey in a clean jar.  
It's the best way to avoid putting 5 gallons worth of yeast into a 1 gallon 
batch!

Please excuse my brevity, but time is short.  Anyone with questions is welcome 
to contact me directly.


                         Yours in Carbonation,

                                      Cher 


"Apart from that, Mrs. Lincoln, did you enjoy the play?"
=============================================================================

	Cheryl Feinstein              INTERNET:  CRF at PINE.CIRCA.UFL.EDU
	Univ. of Fla.                 BITNET:  CRF at UFPINE
	Gainesville, FL


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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:51:36 PST
From: Clarence Dold <dold at tsdold.Convergent.COM>
Subject: Bulk malt extract verses cans

> >From: Marc Rouleau <mer6g at virginia.edu>
> Subject: Pasteurized versus Unpasteurized Extract?

> his quality is also superior.  He gets "commercial grade" extract in
> 55 gallon drums and repackages it in 6 lb plastic tubs.  He says that

Most canned Malt Extracts have been diluted to make the extract less
viscous, so that it can be packed by machine.  It is usually diluted with
brewers syrup, which has the same percentage of fermentables as the 
original extract.  55 gallon drums don't have the additional syrup.

The Australian Homebrew that I import is a Hopped Malt Extract that is 
hand packed in poly bags, and is noticeably thicker than the extract from
a can, although the percentage of fermentables measures about the same.

- -- 
- ---
Clarence A Dold - dold at tsmiti.Convergent.COM            (408) 435-5293
               ...pyramid!ctnews!tsmiti!dold        FAX (408) 435-3105
               P.O.Box 6685, San Jose, CA 95150-6685         MS#10-007


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Date: Fri, 7 Dec 90 13:53:04 PST
From: Clarence Dold <dold at tsdold.Convergent.COM>
Subject: shandy

> From: Arun Welch <welch at cis.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject: Lime in Beer

> A shandy, (or shandygaff, which it's the short form for), is 1/2 and
> 1/2 beer and lemonade. At the bar I worked at for a time in northern
> Germany it was called a moorwasser (Moor water, as it looks like the
> water in a swamp). In England it's typically known as a women's drink,

As a homebrewer, I have realized that there are many divergent ideas 
about how beer should taste, including those who think Bud is better than
mine.  That's fine, I can accept that.

But I can't understand how anyone could enjoy a shandy!
While travelling in England, I made sure that I tried one of each variety
on tap in each of the pubs I visited.  Some good, some bad, but the
shandy was disgusting...

I always finished the night with a half of Guiness Draught.
It's hard to believe that it's from the same company as the bottles.

- -- 
- ---
Clarence A Dold - dold at tsmiti.Convergent.COM            (408) 435-5293
               ...pyramid!ctnews!tsmiti!dold        FAX (408) 435-3105
               P.O.Box 6685, San Jose, CA 95150-6685         MS#10-007


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Date: Sun, 9 Dec 90 11:43:29 EST
From: moscom!tcm at ee.rochester.edu (Tom Maszerowski)
Subject: Another stuck ferment

  A stuck ferment: This is getting to be pretty common for me. The latest
is an Oatmeal Stout ( recipe from the Digest ) that I had hoped to have
ready for Christmas 1990. I started November 17, using 21 grams of
Munton&Fison dry yeast. Fermentation was great for about 2 days then died off
rapidly. I added 11.5 grams of EDME dry yeast after a week but this had
no observable effect. Today, December 9, I checked to SG only to find
that it was 1.040, O.G. was 1.068. Again today I added 11.5 grams of EDME
yeast and stirred everything up, hoping that the fresh yeast and O2 might
do something. My basement stays at 68o F almost constantly.

  This is the fourth such problem I have had in two years. I've used both
dry and liquid yeast, different malts, etc. Is it me, my ingredients, or
what? Thanks for any help, in advance.

A tense, worried homebrewer,

Tom Maszerowski	tcm at moscom.com
		{rit,tropix,ur-valhalla}!moscom!tcm

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Date: Sun, 9 Dec 90 14:19:31 PST
From: polstra!norm at uunet.UU.NET (Norm Hardy)
Subject: Dave Miller's Cont Pils

Craig Flowers spent some time flaming me for expressing a recommendation
to not buy Miller's book.  He missed the point, sad to say.  

Simply put, there are many people who will not profit from the purchase
of the book; many are on the homebrew network.  

The AHA is profitting from excessive hype and marketing.  It's part of the
Rah, Rah mentality that Chuck Papazian tries to espouse, along with the
useful but often misused saying of "relax, don't worry, have a(nother)
homebrew."  The AHA is now touting the "Classic Styles" series, while the
authors are writing as fast as possible to get the product out the door.
It is that very thing that pervades these books and for that I am
disappointed.  A regular reader of Zymurgy doesn't need the extra expense.

Finally, I didn't already know everything in the book; there is always
more to learn.

Norm Hardy

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Date: Sun, 9 Dec 90 22:17:15 mst
From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!att!drutx!homer
Subject: Nitrogen & Guinness

Last year I barrowed a video tape from Guinness that explained their use
of Nitrogen to dispense Guinness.  The tape was intended for Guinness
distributors in the US.

They use a blend of 75% nitrogen and 25% CO2, at 30 psi.  This pressure
is at least twice the pressure that most beers use.  If they used pure
CO2 at that pressure the beer would be overcarbonated.  If they used
pure nitrogen, which will not go into solution, the beer would be flat.
They demonstrate both the pure CO2 & nitrogen in the video.  The 75/25
blend is what Guinness selected to provide the carbonation they want.

Guinness also uses a special faucet in the bar.  The Guinness faucet
has a flow controller, and a restrictor.  They recommend that the flow
controller be set to full open.  The restrictor has 5 holes in it and
acts like the aireator that most sink faucets have.

They claim that the blended glasses and the Guinness faucet give the
beer the head that we know of from Guinness.

Other items from the tape:

Draught Guinness in the US is the same as in Ireland.  Draught Guinness
has 120 calories in 12 oz and 4% alcohol.  A serving temperature of 40
to 45 degrees is preferred.  The beer should be poured in one shot,
instead of turning the tap on and off.

Guinness Extra Stout, is 6% and more hoppy than Draught Guinness.

For me, I am not going to worry about getting nitrogen for my stout.

Jim Homer
att!drutx!homer


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Date: Sun, 09 Dec 90 21:50:53 EST
From: hplabs!ames!rutgers!crdgw1.ge.com!kk4fs!pauls (Paul Schmidt)
Subject:  Non-alcoholic beverages

Has anyone made rootbeer or other nonalcoholic beverages?  I would be
interested in trying to make a carbonated drink that my 3 year old could
drink also.  Any tips would be appreciated.

Paul Schmidt - pauls at kk4fs.uucp


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Date:     Mon Dec 10 10:18:06 1990
From: "William F. Pemberton" <wfp5p at euclid.acc.virginia.edu>
Subject:  Yeast Stuff


I have a comment and a question for the yeast people.

First, to whomever was looking to culture the yeast out of a bottle of
Chimay.  As was said before, it is (probably) not the same yeast as is
used for the primary fermentation of Chimay.  BUT the stuff must still
be a pretty good yeast.  The winner in this years' Belgian-Style
catagory used cultured Chimay yeast.

Now a question: Has anyone had any experience culturing the yeast out of
either Thomas Hardy's Ale or Belhaven Scotch Ale?

Thanks in advance!
Bill Pemberton
(flash at virginia.edu)


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Date: Sun, 9 Dec 90 00:07:03 -0500
From: ag297 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Perry A. Trunick)
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #551 (December 06, 1990)



An anecdotal note on Chimay:
In Belgium, I never found Chimay on tap.  Always in bottles, and
with the little symbol on the side indicating you should serve it
in a goblet, not a glass.  They use the old, slash (\) through
the glass to indicate this.
Also, there are so many versions:  Blau being one I was partial to.
Beers of a similar taste and texture. . .well, cousins if not
beer brothers. . .were available in Bavaria and Berlin.
The reason for the goblet and not the glass is to avoid getting
the sediment stirred up while you were drinking.

- --
                     The most important thing you have to know
                     in life is yourself.

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Date: Mon, 10 Dec 1990 16:44:15 PST
From: todd at NISC.SRI.COM (Todd Koumrian)
Subject: Re: Glass fermentation locks

In the SF Bay Area, BeerMakers in San Jose has the glass "S-shaped"
fermentation locks and I think Great Fermentations lists them in their
catalog.

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Date: 09 Dec 90 01:03:37 EST
From: chip upsal <70731.3556 at compuserve.com>
Subject: patriotic duty

Concerning patriotic dutie in hbd 552

The following is for educational purposes only:

I have heard of using a pressure cooker to cook the beer at 173 F -- the
boiling point of alcohol; condensing the alcohol on a copper coil put
over the hole in the top of the cookers lid -- the one the pressure
regulater fits over. Then one could collect the liquor from the end of
the copper.  It is best to run the liquor through again.

Chip


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #553, 12/11/90
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