FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org *************************************************************** TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Sponsor The Home Brew Digest! Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to: HBD Server Fund PO Box 871309 Canton Township, MI 48187-6309 or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250 or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available sponsorship opportunities. *************************************************************** Contents: Re: HLT woes (bill keiser) IPA (Fred Scheer) Re: HLT woes (stencil) pH with excess CaCO3 (Matt)
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 07:16:39 -0400 From: bill keiser <bk2 at sharpstick.org> Subject: Re: HLT woes New problem to me, but I would assemble loosely, apply food grade silicone, let set a day or two, then tighten. A more heavy duty version would be to put a SS plate between the fitting and the silicone, a fender washer would do, or you could fabricate a rectangular plate to create more support. This would be more solid and act as a heatsink to help with any heat conductance problem with the silicone. It would in effect create a flat wall, but it would be thicker than the original. Adding another washer/plate on the outside with silicone and make the whole thing even more solid, but thicker yet. I don't know how hot it gets at that point, probably not too hot with wort present. If it does, you could use high temp silicone, but I don't know how food safe it is. I've done the silicone trick on motorcycles and car engines with good results. Letting it cure while loose and then tightening makes it more secure. Applying a film of some kind of oil before the silicone is applied will make it easier to disassemble later on, but all the exposed oil should be cleaned off before using. Bill Keiser > Somehow I've had the devil of a job building an HLT out of an > aluminium stock pot and an electric heating element. The problem is > that the element has a flat flange, while the pot has a curved side. > Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 12:29:44 +0000 (UTC) From: Fred Scheer <fredscheer07 at comcast.net> Subject: IPA Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 15:37:03 -0700 > From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net> > Subject: Sippin on the Dock of the Bay IPA > > > > HI Chad: > > I'm a very good Friend of Steve Cropper, who wrote > that song. I will forward the "sippin on the dock....." > which he will like. Great idea.... > > Cheers > > Fred Scheer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 10:10:31 -0400 From: stencil <etcs.ret at verizon.net> Subject: Re: HLT woes On Wed, 29 Apr 2009 23:23:34 -0400, in Homebrew Digest #5542 (April 29, 2009) 'groggy' Lehey wrote: > >[ ... ] The problem is >that the element has a flat flange, while the pot has a curved side. >I've spent a lot of time looking for some way of sealing the join, > As long as the hole is not down too close to the turn of the bilge, you can flatten out a landing zone around it by placing a stack of fender washers on either face and drawing up on them with the stoutest bolt that will pass through them. Lubing the faying faces with (water soluble) Draw-X or K-Y Jelly helps a little. Let it sit a few hours and re-torque the bolt if you can. As a preliminary, ensure that the rim of the hole is free of burrs. gds, stencil Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 07:20:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt <baumssl27 at yahoo.com> Subject: pH with excess CaCO3 I store brettanomyces cultures by growing them in test tubes with wort + 2% CaCO3, then refrigerating. Most of the CaCO3 never dissolves, so I imagine there is a buffer effect where any increase in acidity (during growth or storage) is countered by dissolved carbonate, which is replaced in solution by some of the previously undissolved CaCO3. I'm curious what pH is maintained (and I don't have a pH meter). Anyone know? Matt Return to table of contents
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