HOMEBREW Digest #5866 Tue 30 August 2011

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  Oxygen (Chuck Petersen)
  Re: Aearation with pure oxygen (Robert Tower)
  re: Aearation with pure oxygen ("Pat Babcock")
  Re: Aearation with pure oxygen (Stephen Jorgensen)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 22:08:57 -0700 From: Chuck Petersen <chpete at opusnet.com> Subject: Oxygen This is for Scott's question on how long to apply oxygen. For a beer that will be in the 4 to 6 percent range one minute is adequate aeration. Be careful not to turn on the oxygen too much or you just waste it. Adjust the flow to give a nice flow of small bubbles but not too much. If you can hear the oxygen bottle start to whistle a bit you are giving it too much. If you adjust correctly you have five to seven brews in a bottle but too much and it empties very quickly. Chuck Petersen Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 22:37:21 -0700 From: Robert Tower <roberttower at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: Aearation with pure oxygen Scott Stihler asks about run times for a pure oxygen aeartion system for use with disposable Bernzomatic oxygen cannisters. I'm not the most qualified (from a science standpoint) but since traffic is low I'll answer in case all of the chemistry experts are on vacation! The easy answer is run it for about 30-45 seconds for a five gallon (19 L) batch. The more complicated answer is that it depends on wort temperature (gas is more readily absorbed in warmer liquids), porosity of the aeration stone (size of bubbles generated, smaller and more numerous bubbles create more surface area thus more absorption), and regulated pressure (higher pressure equals larger bubbles). Since these regulators don't utilize gauges there's some guesswork involved on regulation amount. I've used these type of regulators before and the best advice I can give is to slowly turn the regulator until you see bubbles then stop. Depending on the stone you're using there may be a certain amount of resistance to overcome (i.e. you'll have to turn the regulator up a bit to get it "over the hump" and then turn it back down to a lower rate). I recommend barely submerging the stone while you're adjusting the regulator so that you can directly see the response to your setting. Then once you get the pressure right go ahead and submerge it into the wort making sure to move it around to expose more of the wort. I've heard that it's fairly easy and quick to reach the saturation level (or fairly near) so anything past that is just wasting oxygen. I generally run it for around 45 seconds once and call it good. I don't have any instrumentation to measure oxygen levels so I can't actually determine if I'm reaching saturation levels but it seems to be good enough in that I consistently get fast and complete fermentations. I've looked at these oxygen measuring devices and they're not cheap! Something I'll have to live without I'm afraid. If you're doing lagers, then you may want to aerate before you chill the wort all the way down to fermentation temperatures as at these temperatures it's more difficult to saturate. Bob Tower Los Angeles, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 07:54:01 -0400 (EDT) From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: re: Aearation with pure oxygen Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Scott Stihler who just happens to be an AVO Analyst in Fairbanks, AK asks: 'how long do I bubble oxygen into the wort of 5-gallon batch of "standard" gravity beer?' Common wisdom says about a minute's worth of fine bubbles streaming up from the bottom of the fermenter will suffice, but I had another method I liked to employ. Back in the days of yore, when I still had the garage brewing factory pumping steam into the local atmosphere every weekend, I would inject oxygen into the chilled wort stream leaving the kettle. To do this, I obtained a hypodermic needle, attached a piece of tubing between it and the Bernz-O-Matic oxygen valve fitting, and then pushed the needle through the wall of the tubing exiting my counterflow chiller at an acute angle. A band of tape around the hose at the base of the needle both prevented the needle from pulling out, and ensured the needle inside wouldn't puncture the hose wall opposite when moved around. It is best that the exit tubing be clear so you can see the effect of opening and closing the oxygen valve. When I would start my chiller, I'd allow the first few ounces to flow through to ensure the system is full, then I'd crack the oxygen valve open to a very fine stream, or, if the bubbles were large due to slower wort flow in the summer, very few. Oxygenating in the stream like this increases the ratio between the oxygen bubble surface area and the wort volume to help ensure good oxygen levels. I think the flow and turbulence helps get more oxygen into solution as well, but I may be all wet on this. In any case, there was never any apparent bubbling at the fermenter end during fill, which implies either that I'm not very observant or all the oxygen in through the tube was staying in the wort. As always, your mileage may vary and/or my premise could be all wrong. - -- See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan Chief of HBD Janitorial Services http://hbd.org pbabcock at hbd.org Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 14:16:26 -0500 From: Stephen Jorgensen <stephen at ultraemail.net> Subject: Re: Aearation with pure oxygen I use those oxygen bottles whenever I brew with liquid yeast but only actually tried the aeration stone once. I left the room for a minute and returned to see about a quart of wort on the floor, it seems bubbles make foam. Of course there are anti-foam agents available which do not carry into finished, well settled beer but I never tried them. My method is to squirt a couple of seconds of O2 into the headspace, seal up and shake. I feel it's a more efficient use of the gas, less mess potential and I get very good results vs. shaking with plain air. I use glass carboys for every stage of fermentation so there is not a lot of extra room for foam in my methods. Perhaps things like unitanks and 6 gal buckets are more forgiving. Stephen Jorgensen Chicago, Illinois Return to table of contents
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