HOMEBREW Digest #593 Mon 11 March 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Fermentation Technology Shortcourse (ardent!uunet!inland.com!pals)
  Real Women Drink Real Brew (Jolly C. Pancakes)
  Making Cider (Randy Tidd)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #592 (March 08, 1991) (CHRIS D'ARRIGO)
  other brewpub beverages (Geoffrey Sherwood)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #592 (March 08, 1991) (Keith Winter)
  Lagering in plastic (GS) <mb at Princeton.EDU>
  Beer bottles and carboys
  Ooops -- I put Wyeast in the freezer! (Chris Shenton)
  Flagstaff Brewpubs? (Don McDaniel)
  women and beer tastes (Bob Devine  08-Mar-1991 1042)
  Re: Premier Malt Extract (b11!mspe5!guy)
  this keeps bouncing back at me (vang)
  my 2 cents on the bruheat (        kevin vang)
  Pacific Northwest Travels ("Olzenak,Craig")
  Final report on The Wholesale Homebrew Club (S94TAYLO)
  All this about women and beer (dbreiden)
  keeping fermenters cool (Dan Strahs)
  Sassafras in stout ("Eric Roe")
  Extract efficiency ("Eric Roe")

Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com [Please do not send me requests for back issues] Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 7 Mar 91 09:44:50 CST From: hplabs!ardent!uunet!inland.com!pals Subject: Fermentation Technology Shortcourse For all you rich homebrewers and/or would be micro-brewers out there, M.I.T.'s Biotechnology Process Engineering Center is offering a 1 week summer course on "Fermentation Technology" from August 12 - August 16. The tuition is a mere $1,600. I wonder if they go out sampling after class... Randy - -- RJPals |Internet: pals at inland.com I.S.I. Research |UUCP: ...!uunet!inland!pals Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 09:58:12 -0500 From: jcp at islay.dco.dec.com (Jolly C. Pancakes) Subject: Real Women Drink Real Brew Here's another anecdotal data point for you. I've been a woman ALL MY LIFE (amazing, isn't it? :-) and I like strong stouts, porters and barleywines and don't like pilsners and light lagers. Of course, I also like single malt whisky. I have to admit, though, that the macho aura associated with strong tasting drink leads to some comical incidents. More than once I have gone out with a group of guys and ordered the darkest ale or strongest Scotch in stock, and then the guys feel they have to prove their manhood by ordering similarly and they don't like it and I snicker quietly to myself. -jcp Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 10:14:12 EST From: rtidd at ccels2.mitre.org (Randy Tidd) Subject: Making Cider Mark W. Castleman writes: > We add 1/2 to 3/4 c of regular sugar to each gallon jug. We have found > that this gives the tase that we like. More than thins will result in a more > potent brew, without much added sweetness. Less than this results in VERY dry > final product. The final alchoholic strength is 5-7%. Plenty strong for us. Did you boil or otherwise pasteurize the cider before adding the sugar or pitching the yeast? According to this, you used 3-3/4 to 5 cups of sugar for a 5-gallon batch? That seems to me to be a lot of sugar, but then again i've never made cider. I'm looking into making some lighter beverages for the upcoming summer (mead, cider, fruit beers). For you people making the small batches (1 gallon) of mead, how long is it from brewing to drinking? Also, does anyone have a good recipe for a light raspberry ale? OB brewing story: I made a batch of oatmeal stout as per the recipe posted to the digest a few weeks back. Everything went great, but the initial fermentation bubbled over in my 7-gallon primary and filled up my fermentation lock with wort! Suprised me. Guess i'll have to figure out how to rig up a blowoff tube to my primary. Randy Tidd rtidd at mwunix.mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1991 10:14 EST From: CHRIS D'ARRIGO <DARRIG30%SNYBUFVA.BITNET at CORNELLC.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #592 (March 08, 1991) New Beer Supplier: Try Bottom of the Barrel 280 E. Dominick Street 2nd floor Rome, NY 13440 (315) 339-6744 M-F 5-9 Sat 12-5 Ask for Rich12-5 Tell him Mike From Buffalo sent ya! Ask him for a price list! Superior Quality Rick is real knowledgable!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 07:30:25 PST From: sherwood at adobe.com (Geoffrey Sherwood) Subject: other brewpub beverages If anyone were doing a brewpub, I would STRONGLY recommend serving hard cider if at all possible. It retains the 'homebrew' mystique (assuming you make it yourself, of course) and provides an alternative to those who do not care for beer. My wife is absolutely enamored of the stuff. My parents do not like beer *at all*. I told them of my pub travels in Britain and they listened politely. Until I mentioned that Linda had gone ga-ga over the ciders that *every* pub in Britian (well, we only visited 30 some) served. Suddenly they were *very* interested. It does help that my father is from northern Michigan (with a heavy influence of Cornish miners) and grew up with hard cider and pasties as common occurrances.... In any event, they now plan on visiting a lot of pubs when without the cider they would scarcely darken their doorways. When we went to British Columbia we were also amazed at the variety of cider sold there. Actually, I think they are much better than those sold in Britain (cleaner taste, more appley). I wish we could get some here in the SF Bay area. Blackthorn is available (and fairly decent) but is $10/6-pack and has lost something in the travelling. Lyon's Brewery has cider from 'Napa City Cider' on draft which is quite good (but 30 miles away). As an aside, does anyone know anything about this cider? I would love to get it in 5 gallon lots!! geoff sherwood Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 8:49:20 PST From: winter%cirrusl at oliveb.ATC.olivetti.com (Keith Winter) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #592 (March 08, 1991) In HBD#592 Mark Castleman asks: > Subject: Boilovers > > Last week, while boiling up a batch of steam beer, we had a boilover > of what can only be described as Biblical proportions. After several hours > trying to clean wort off my floor (and stove, and cabinets, and walls, and cat) > I decided Never Again! > My question is: How does one prevent this tragedy from reoccurring? > (After all, we did lose about 1pt of wort!) The batch we were making contained > two can of extract and 1/2lb of crystal malt (if that matters). I had one of those "Biblical proportion" boil-overs myself and it sure made a mess!!! I found a solution that works for me. This may sound simplisitic but I've found that keeping a glass of cold water handy near the boiling wort eliminates this problem. Whenever I see that the wort is "building" up for a boil-over, I just dump a couple of ounces of cold water in and the head drops instantly. Since the propensity to foam up seems to occur primarily near the beginning of the boil, I just baby-sit the pot until this phase passes. Hope this helps. Keith Winter at Cirrus Logic, Inc. {...!oliveb!cirrusl!winter} Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 13:42:49 -0500 From: Matthias Blumrich (GS) <mb at Princeton.EDU> Subject: Lagering in plastic I am about to embark on the brewing of my first lager and I would really like to lager it at about 45 degrees. Seeing as the weather here in the northeast has been so unpredictable, I plan to put it in a fridge for 3 weeks. The problem is that my glass carboy only fits into my large fridge, so I would have to take it over for 3 weeks. My other option is to lager in a plastic carboy which would fit into my smaller fridge and be much more efficient. Does anyone have an opinion or any experience on letting the beer sit in plastic for this long? Thanks. - Matt - Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 14:29:55 EST From: William Boyle (CCL-L) <wboyle at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Beer bottles and carboys I am just getting started brewing, and I have about 3 dozen bottles. The bottles are from a generic soda, they do not have screw off caps, they had the standard crown caps. My question is they are not as heavy as "bar" bottles, can I put beer in them, and is there a chance they could explode. Also I keep seeing things about a glass secondary (carboys), I can get plastic ones from water coolers, is there any harm in using a plastic one? Bill Boyle Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 14:45:43 EST From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Ooops -- I put Wyeast in the freezer! Any thoughts on it's chances for survival? it was only in for eight hours, but felt frozen solid when I moved it to the fridge. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 12:54:14 -0700 From: dinsdale at chtm.unm.edu (Don McDaniel) Subject: Flagstaff Brewpubs? These postings get old after a while (probably just from my jealousy about not having brewpubs in New Mexico) but I'm sending one now: I'll be travelling to Northern Arizona at the end of the month (Flagstaff, Sedona, Prescott). Does anyone know of any brewpubs in Flagstaff? I seriously doubt that either of the other towns I'm visiting could support one. Thanks for any info. E-mail would probably be best. Don McDaniel dinsdale at chtm.unm.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 12:06:23 PST From: Bob Devine 08-Mar-1991 1042 <devine at cookie.enet.dec.com> Subject: women and beer tastes In the US, it is nearly accepted gospel that women only like lighter beers. But is not true worldwide. I was a volunteer at last year's Great American Beer Festival for the Bayern Brewing Co. from Montana. The brewmaster (a native born German) said that where he grew up, women usually drink the darker, heavier beers but the men prefer lighter beers. As a second anecdotal reference, last Christmas I drove to Wisconsin to visit relatives. Of the homebrews I brought along, the women seemed to prefer the heavier beers, such as a heavy Irish Stout (tastes great), while the men had to urged to try something other than their accustomed lite beers (less filling ;-). Bob Devine Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 15:27:39 CST From: ingr!b11!mspe5!guy at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Re: Premier Malt Extract Darren Evans-Young writes: >Here in the land of no homebrew Alabama.... > >I noticed something that made me laugh in the grocery store yesterday. >About 12-15 cans of Premier Light Hopped Malt Extract (2.2#)!!! >It even had a yeast packet included. The side of the can said: >"Makes xxx Six Packs of Beer!" I forgot what xxx was. >Has anyone used this stuff? Should I go buy them all? It was >about $3.39 per 2.2# can. I did notice a recipe in TCJOH that called >for 5 lbs of this stuff (Wise Ass Bitter? ...something like that). > >Suggestions? First of all, hombrewing is alive and well in Alabama. At least it is in Huntsville. Why, we even have a hombrew supply store. As for the Premier, I have not personaly used it but I have sampled a batch that an office mate made using a can of Premier and a can of John Bull dark. It was very black, very tasty, and had a dark brown head. Because of his results, my next batch will probably be the "Wise Ass Red Bitter" just to give the Premier a try. I wouldn't use the yeast however. Pick up a can or two and give it a go. - -- ============================================================================== Guy D. McConnell | | "All that is gold does not Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL. | Opinions | glitter, not all those who Mass Storage Peripheral Evaluation | herein | wander are lost, the old Tape Products | are mine | that is strong does not uunet!ingr!b11!mspe5!guy | alone. | wither, and deep roots are (205)730-6289 FAX (205)730-6011 | | not touched by the frost." ============================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 91 16:18:17 CST From: vang <MN033302 at VM1.NoDak.EDU> Subject: this keeps bouncing back at me ======================================================================== 77 Date: Wed, 20 Feb 91 14:06:43 CST From: kevin vang <MN033302 at NDSUVM1> Subject: my 2 cents on the bruheat To: homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com I have been brewing with the Bruheat for five years now, and I wouldn't want to mash without it. There are some things you need to know when you use it, though. 1. You need a *lot* more water in your mash. The usual description for the ideal consistency for the mash is that of a thick porridge. With the bruheat, you want something like a thick soup. Don't use the amounts of water given in the Papazian's tables in TCJOHB; it won't be nearly enough. Two reasons: first, if your mash is too thick, you get the scorching on the heating element problem. Second, if your mash is too thick, heat will be distributed very unevenly. (Now that I think about it, the first problem is just an extreme case of the second, so there's only one problem.) What I usually do is fill the bucket about half full of water and then start adding my grain, stirring constantly. When it starts getting too thick (experience is the best guide here) I add another quart or two of water. You can get water at the right temp straight out of the tap, so I don't worry about the temperature. I know the books all warn against too thin a mash, but so far I haven't noticed any dire consequences. 2. Even when the mash is thin enough to prevent burning, you will still have to contend with uneven temperature distribution. The cure is frequent and vigourous stirring. Get yourself a well-sanded hardwood stirring stick and put it to good use. You don't necessarily need to stir continuously, but you should stir at least every few minutes. As long as you're hovering over the bucket stirring, check your thermometer. You will need to constantly monitor the temperature and adjust the heat accordingly. Money spent on a high quality laboratory thermometer is money well invested. 3. Occasionally you will get stuff burnt onto the heating element. We have extremely hard water here, so I get layers of gunk caked onto the element no matter what I do. This will lower your efficiency tremendously. Things will go much faster if your element is kept shiny clean. I clean mine off by scrap- ing it with a wire brush. Make sure the brush has fairly soft bristles (brass is best) so you don't damage it. *Don't* clean your element by soaking it in bleach or something nasty like that. A friend did that once and ate the stain- less off the surface and ruined it. 4. Don't even consider buying a 110 V model. I initially bought a 110V Elect- rim mashing bin, and I quickly realized my mistake. It works great for holding a mash at a constant temp, but it takes forever to increase the temp between steps. Don't even ask how long it takes to boil. If you can find a 220v Electrim, though, I would buy that instead of the Bruheat. The Electrim is made from a rigid plastic with a reinforced rim, while the Bruheat is made from a soft plastic. A floppy container is not very comforting if for some reason you need to lift it while it is full of boiling wort. 5. What's better than a Bruheat? Two Bruheats, of course! After brewing for a while, I realized that making a batch of all-grain beer takes approximately all day long, most of which is spent standing around waiting or cleaning up the unspeakable mess I can't quite seem to avoid making. So, as long as your kill- ing time, you can make two batches at once and have twice as much beer for about the same amount of time and effort. If you can't afford two, talk a friend into getting one. Then you can share, and you can make brewing a social occasion. (Try making it a social occasion anyway, and you can try to pass off some of the work onto someone else. After all, isn't it fair that the consumers of a product bear the costs of producing it?) 6. If you are an extract brewer, buy a bruheat. Then you can do full wort boils without screwing around searching for propane burners and huge stock pots Also, if and when you take up mashing, you will already own the major new piece of equipment you will need. In sum, if you keep it clean, water down your mashes, and supervise the proceed ings carefully, and generally don't ask the Bruheat to do more than it's able to do, it will make you happy and keep you supplied with excellent brew. Kevin Vang Math Dept, Minot State University mn033302 at ndsuvm1 "All of the above is strictly my own personal opinion. You want to make something of it?" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 17:04:05 cst From: "Olzenak,Craig" <OLZENAK%GRIN1.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Pacific Northwest Travels Greetings All! I too am traveling to Washington State (maybe Oregon too) in the near future. The Big Time Brewery sounds great - 3 golds at the GABF! I like the names of the winners too - Prime Time Pale, Coal Creek Porter, and Old Wooly Barley Wine. Is Big Time Brewing Co. a brewpub? Or can one find their stuff on tap at a variety of bars? This is important as I'm not sure how much time I'll be spending in Seattle. For all you Northwesterners, is Cooper's the place to hit to find a good variety of fresh, draught products? Is there someplace better to go if I'm limited on time? I'm interested in trying Bert Grant's ales, Big Time, Sierra Nevada (CA of course, but we don't get it here in the Midwest), etc. Another item that I haven't seen addressed - CONGRATS to Seattle's Brews Brothers for taking the club competition's Hail to Ale (IPAs). John (Polstra), the recipe (of Jack Hagens) in the last club newsletter looked like a winner; obviously, it was! By the way, Brews News is a great looking and informative club posting. Keep up the good work! Another personal note - to Norm Hardy - Your winning pale ale of two years ago is a super recipe. When will you be posting last year's 2nd place recipe? Did you again use Wyeast 1028? It's a nice yeast. Thanks! All for now, Craig Olzenak Heartland Homebrew Club Grinnell, Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 91 21:47 EST From: <S94TAYLO%USUHSB.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Final report on The Wholesale Homebrew Club As promised, here is a report on how my first experience with the membership wharehouse supply company in Florida went. First of all, it took quite some time to finally get all the supplies. I got the dry malt after about 2 weeks of mailing my check (pretty good, I thought). However, some of the malt syrup was back ordered to England and they didn't ship any of the rest of the order until all of it was ready to ship. I finally got the remainder of the order after about 4.5 weeks. Calls for help were not handled with much concern on their part, but I made the mistake of worrying. I know I should listen to Charlie Papazian more often, but it was nearly a $500 order. Now that I have received the whole order and I can bury my face in a big pile of hops, I'm not nearly so "unrelaxed". Many of you out there in HBD-land have wondered about the high cost of postage. Well, postage worked out to be about 25-30 cents/pound. Total cost of: 55 lb. unhopped dry malt $115.68 $2.00/lb.!!! 6-3.3lb cans M&F syrup $ 42.00 $7.00/can!!! 50 lbs corn sugar $ 33.70 $ .66/lb.!!! leaf hops-1 lb. $ 8.00 Caps-printed-70 gross (10,000) $ 45.00 $ .60/200 caps Specialty grains-5 lb. $ 6.50 These are DELIVERED prices, actual price. I would like to know if these AREN'T the best prices around, but they are more than 50% less than most of the retail prices in this area. Other supplies for sale are: Hops pellets and leaf-20 varieties Speciality malts-including plain malts in 55 lb barrels Wine making ingredients and supplies Kegging equipment Yeast, dry and liquid (wyeast) Cappers, carboys Fruit pressers Soft Drink and Liquor Extracts Stainless Steel Stack Pots (5 gallon cap-$67.00 Is this a good price? 'cause I really want one.) Anyhow, that's the lowdown. I'm not necessarily endorsing them, but I think the prices are pretty good. Their phone service basically sucks, and delivery is somewhat less than prompt. But... I would like to hear some feedback on the above mentioned prices, so drop me a line! Al Taylor Uniformed Services University School of Medicine Bethesda, MD s94taylor at usuhsb.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 91 00:19:23 -0500 From: dbreiden at mentor.cc.purdue.edu Subject: All this about women and beer I don't know how relavent this really is, but I think it is interesting to reflect on the info that it was the WIFE who brewed the family beer way back before a central location made it for each town--the extreme case of a brew-pub. Of course this distinction developed because the husband was busy doing farming or whatever while the wife was at home cooking and cleaning and etc. so she could tend the brew--I guess it was like baking the bread every day (the wife became master of yeast,eh?). I wonder if gender mattered to the drinking of beer way back then. And if not, when did the current state of affairs develop (we all seem to acknowledge that a greater percentage of men drink beer than women). My notes on the subject: I was shocked the first time I ever saw a female drink beer--I was about 8 yrs old. I never thought it happened! My mom drinks some occasionally, but never at home so I never saw women drinking beer. I've also noted that men who claim "I don't like beer" are often classified as whimpy or effeminate. I'm not saying it's right, but I do know that it happens. Personally, I don't like toi hear anyone say those four words--I'm really into the social aspect of beer appreciation. - --Danny Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 91 18:53:53 EST From: Dan Strahs <strahs at murex.bioc.aecom.yu.edu> Subject: keeping fermenters cool I live on the top floor of a tall apartment building. The temperature in my apartment seems to average about 70 degrees Farenheit without the heat being on. I've done a survey of my apartment and there doesn't appear to be any place where the temperature averages 65 degrees or less (other then the inside of the refrigerator 8~). I would like to brew ales, but I need to find a way to lower the temperature of the primary about 5 to 10 degrees farenheit. Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions/information? Tonight is the night I bottle my first batch... I intend to relax, bottle and have a homebrew... well, maybe the homebrew will have to wait a week 8~). Dan Strahs Biochemistry Department Albert Einstein College of Medicine biochemical physicist or physical biochemist or chemical biophysicist or Internet: strahs at murex.bioc.aecom.yu.edu W: 212-430-3180 Disclaimer: "...just a sunshine daydream" Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 91 19:58 EST From: "Eric Roe" <KXR11 at PSUVM.PSU.EDU> Subject: Sassafras in stout Has anyone had experience using sassafras in beer. I was originally going to try making a raspberry stout, but the only berries that I've come across in my area have sugar added -- they're also not very cheap, and adding 3 pounds or so would start getting a little costly. One of our local grocery stores has fresh sliced sassafras root, but I'm unsure of how potent an additive it would be in a stout. It comes in a 2oz bag and smells very nice (plus it's a dirt cheap $0.49). In _TCJoHB_, Papazian mentions the use of licorice root, but unfortunately he doesn't give a measurement by weight. He just says use a 4 to 6 inch piece of root. Any info appreciated. Thanks, Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 91 20:01 EST From: "Eric Roe" <KXR11 at PSUVM.PSU.EDU> Subject: Extract efficiency First let me say thanks to those of you who replied to my extract efficiency question in HBD #586. Since then, I've done a little research on the subject. Here is a summary of the responses plus a few tidbits I've discovered. * There are at least two way to measure extract efficiency. In Greg Noonan's book _Brewing Lager Beer_ it is measured as a percentage using the following formula: (degrees B+259)*degrees B lbs extract Volume of wort * --------------------------- = in 3100 wort lbs extract in wort ------------------- * 100 = extract efficiency percentage lbs grain mashed in Efficiency can also be measured as points per pound using the formula: Volume of wort * (SG-1) * 1000 Points --------------------------------- = per lbs of grain mashed in pound In Papazian's _TCJoHB_ he states that one pound of malt in one gallon of water will yield a SG between 1.025 - 1.030. The numbers correspond to 54%(1.025) - 65%(1.030) using Noonan's formula. Obviously 54% yield is somewhat on the low side. Yields higher than 1.030 are definitely possible. * Extract potentials are lower with malts such as munich, caramel, dextrin, and darker malts. * Some grain adjuncts have more extract potential than that of malted barley. Corn is one example. * With decoction mashing you can get upwards of 80% extract efficiency with fully modified british malts. The usual is around 70-75% e.e. * Often it is impossible to crack ALL the grain with a standard "corona" style grist mill. The uncracked grains yield no extract, and thus will lower your efficiency slightly. It might be interesting to figure out what percentage of the grains remain uncracked, this could then be deducted when calculating your efficiency (if it's a significant enough number to bother with). * Looking in some of the recipes in Zymurgy I see that some people get downright poor efficiency. I suppose this could be an error in the printing (ie. the recipe says ingredients for 5 gal, but it's supposed to be for 10). * If your efficiency is above 60% you can be pretty pleased. Below 50% and you should seriously look over your procedure. * In one of my replies someone states they are getting around 87-91% efficiency. Using Noonan's formula this would be impossible. The writer mentions Miller. Is this yet another method of determining e.e.? Happy mashing, Eric Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #593, 03/11/91 ************************************* -------
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