HOMEBREW Digest #598 Mon 18 March 1991

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Hard Cider recipe wanted (S94TAYLO)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #597 (March 15, 1991) (Keith Morgan)
  Spruce beer (James P. Buchman)
  Culturing yeast -- I'm having problems (as usual :-) (Chris Shenton)
  Adding flavor/color... (Dave Beedle)
  Brewpubs in Cincinnati area (ems)
  Re: Fermenting in Kegs (bob)
  How to use Isinglass?? (bob)
  Sassafras and Cancer ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
  Engine rebuilding, cams, etc. (Rick Myers)
  Copper counterflow chillers ("Eric Roe")
  Misc. ("Olzenak,Craig")
  Whitbread Ale yeast  (Carl West x4449)
  US Open Homebrew Competition (BAUGHMANKR)
  Sassafrass (Kent Forschmiedt)
  Cream Ale Recipes, anyone? (Lynn Gold)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #594 (March 12, 1991) (Kent Forschmiedt)
  evaporative cooling (Pete Soper)
  Terms of Embeerment (ugh!) (Martin A. Lodahl)
  More On Extract Efficiencies (Martin A. Lodahl)
  6 oz bottles (Kent Forschmiedt)
  Starting up ("Jeffrey R.")

Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com [Please do not send me requests for back issues] Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Mar 91 18:26 EST From: <S94TAYLO%USUHSB.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Hard Cider recipe wanted I'm sure I will be deluged with responses to this request, but I like to get mail. I want to make up a batch of lightly sweet sparkling hard cider using something snappy like MacIntosh apples with a high alcohol content (10-12%!) probably for a halloween bash, or an end of summer party if I get too anxious. Since I have no cider press (come on now, let's be honest, how many of YOU out there actaully have a cider press!?), I am wondering if apple juice might work just as well, and certainly it's much easier to go buy 10-12 cans of apple juice than to find a press and then press out five gallons of cider. I might also like to throw in some cinnamon (sp?) and really impress my non-brewing boozer friends. Please help! Also, I have some sage (where did they come up with that phrase?) advice for beginning homebrewers out there. Some of this comes from various published sources (TCJoHB, Zymurgy, primarily), some from my limited experimentations aimed at making things simpler. In sum, these tidbits have significantly improved my beer enough to convince me to enter this years National Competition and not be embarassed. 1) Sanitize EVERYTHING. A good soak in household bleach (.25-.5 cup/5 gallon) works is great for everything but the bottle caps. 2) Boil ALL your water before adding any ingredients. This drives off the chlorine before it gets a chance to get at and react with anything in the wort. I have started using ozonated bottled water for the same reason and also for greater convenience. Cooling it in the freezer for a couple of hours is an EXTREMELY fast and simple way of cooling your wort to close to a pitchable temperature. 3) Forget about the hydrometer until it's time to bottle. I never get my wort mixed well enough after adding the ice-cold (and more dense) water to get an accurate reading anyway. I just check it at the end to make sure that it hasn't changed in 2 or so days. 4) Stick with long-neck returnable beer bottles. They are cheap ($1.20/case), they will always work, they conveniently travel, will always be accepted in competitions, and allow for a greater variety of inventory of beers (imagine having 10 half-full (or is it half-empty?) kegs for who knows long). Some of these pieces of advice are sure to be questioned by some more experienced brewers out there, and I am happy to discuss differences of opinion with them anytime, maybe we will both learn something. However, if I started doing this stuff from the beginning, my beer would be much better today. Give it a try and good luck! Al Taylor Uniformed Services University School of Medicine Bethesda, Maryland s94taylor at usuhsb.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1991 8:18:08 EST From: TSAMSEL at ISDRES.ER.USGS.GOV Subject: Spruce Beer (DENVER/BOULDER) Re: Spruce beer. A month or so ago I read a great historical novel, BENEDICT ARNOLD. (I can't remember the authors name) but there was a character, sort of a Maine fropntiersman who would at the drop of the hat, brew spruce beer for the exceeding thirsty Continental Army and in one section of the book spoke at great length on his recipe ( which to me sounded quite authentic re: the time and place) Also I will be in DENVER/BOULDER and will hit Wynkoops and the Walnut BP. Are there any others? Also, are there any good brew supply stores so I can check out the raw materials? Adios Ted Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 08:38:48 EST From: morgan at dg-rtp.dg.com (Keith Morgan) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #597 (March 15, 1991) In HBD #597 guy at bevsun.bev.lbl.gov (Aran Guy) writes: > Guinness is the largest single purchaser of carageen in the world, so > it is quite a proper ingredient for homebrew. They may soon have some competition for the title of Carageen Kings; I heard that McDonalds has announced a new barfburger consisting of de-fatted beef extract glued together with carageenan (named the "McLean burger"?). If this latest marketing ploy succeeds sufficiently well for this derivative-burger to take over any significant fraction of their zillions served per year, we may be facing a seaweed shortage crisis! :-) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 09:39:30 -0500 From: jpb at tesuji.dco.dec.com (James P. Buchman) Subject: Spruce beer Eric Roe writes > . . . Since spring is almost here and > I've got a Norway spruce in my backyard, I figured I'd harvest a couple of > ounces of sprigs. Anyone got any advice. Should I steep it or add it to > the boil. How much should I use -- in TCJoHB there's a recipe for a beer > called Kumdis Island Spruce Beer. Papazian says to use 4 oz and boil for > 45 minutes. Anyone tried this or something similar? I'm trying this now; the "Spruce Juice" went into the carboy on Saturday. I followed Papazian's recipe to make a five-gallon batch of Special Red Bitter using malt extract, then cut enough twigs from the blue spruce I planted after Christmas to loosely fill a 20-oz cup. The twigs were rinsed off, then tossed into the wort for the final twelve minutes of the boil. I didn't want to overdo it the first time, especially after reading in this digest how easily a small amount of exotic additives (ginger, tree bark, coffee, etc.) can overpower the brew. Yesterday, I tasted the sample which I took to measure the SG. The pine taste and smell were definitely present but not excessive; they added extra sharpness to the brew on top of the hops. Hard to say more from a flat, sweet, yeasty sample only halfway fermented, but I'll keep you posted. One question: on reviewing the recipe, I see that I omitted the 1/8 lb. of roast barley which should have been in the wort. Would it hurt the brew if I added it at this point? I was thinking of boiling the barley in a quart of water, cooling it to room temp, and straining it into the carboy. Reasonable? Jim Buchman Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Mar 91 08:46:19 CST (Fri) From: b17d!uucp at uunet.UU.NET (uucp) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 09:46:16 EST From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Culturing yeast -- I'm having problems (as usual :-) I got some test/culture tubes and Agar Agar (from a health food store), and am trying to culture some different flavors of Wyeast. I mixed up some wort, added the agar agar (why the repetition, by the way?), filled the tubes, then capped and steamed them for 30 minutes. I cooled them at an angle to get the classic slant. All seems fine so far. After using the contents of a package of Wyeast for my latest batch, I flamed a sewing needle, swished it in the yeast package and inoculated the slants with the residual liquid in the pouch. On the final slant, I just poured the dregs from the pouch into the tube. I then let them hang out on top of the fridge. Now, after 4 days, I'm seeing some odd results. The one which got the juice poured in shows obvious signs of fermentation: small bunch of bubbles on top of the agar^2 at the bottom of the slant. The others don't seem to be doing anything. I don't see mold or any other signs of life. Any thoughts? have I screwed things up? did I add to much extract to the agar? I only want them to reproduce, not make beer-jello. PS: did anyone else notice in the latest Zymurgy (I got mine yesterday) that *all* the winning recipes used Wyeast? Nice market to corner! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 8:56:29 CST From: dbeedle at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Dave Beedle) Subject: Adding flavor/color... Hi Ho! Welp, my first batch (entitled Digital Dregs: Power Down Dark) is in the bottles (and on the counter, floor. wife, etc ;-) ), however it should really be called Brown Out Ale! How does one add color? I also tried a little of the stuff while bottling and found it pretty tame. I figure next time I might add some roasted barly? Maybe some hops? What is the bitterness rating of extracts and is there a list or something? My second batch is happily bubbling away now...Great Midwest Vinyards Barley Wine is its title. I took the advice of my local hombrew store in making this, thought I'd see what others think... I use: 2 900g cans of Tom Caxtons Barley Wine extract 3lbs light dry malt 10g Casscade (finishing - You can still smell the hops at my house!) 3-3.5 gallons of water 2 5g packets of Tom Caxton yeast I have this in a 5 gallon carboy. The foam, etc can't reach the top so there is no blow off. I understand the blowoff gets rid of some hop resins and stuff, how much of a problem is it not to have any blow off? Mind you I'm not at all worried; just curious! TTFN - -- Dave Beedle Office of Academic Computing Illinois State University Internet: dbeedle at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu 136A Julian Hall Bitnet: dbeedle at ilstu.bitnet Normal, Il 61761 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 8:46:16 CST From: ems!ems at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Brewpubs in Cincinnati area >From brewpub listing: Ohio -- Cincinnati: Wallaby Bob's - Australian Brewpub. "Wallaby Bob's is in a mall, and might technically be a microbrewery, since they do (apparently) bottle and sell their beer at least for takeout. I have not yet sampled their wares." Kentucky -- Ft. Mitchell (Northern Kentucky) Oldenberg Microbrewery - Buttermilk Pike. "Take I-75 south (from Cincinnati) to Buttermilk Pike. The Brewery is visible from the expressway. Features a full-bodied premium and a very drinkable blonde. The beer is a bit pricey from the tap at $2.00 a mug, $7.00 a pitcher. The premium has a robust taste and finishes smooth. This beer is among the countries 5 finest beers, a definite must try. The brewery also has a fine collection of beer paraphernalia and a German style beer hall with live entertainment." The AHA national conference was held here a few years ago. Ed Sieja Keep On Brewing !! - ----------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri Mar 15 10:46:21 1991 From: semantic!bob at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Re: Fermenting in Kegs In HBD597 Chris Shenton asks: > Bob> For the blow off tube: > Bob> Remove the CO2 inlet as to leave the threaded nub. Then a > Bob> piece of 1/2" tubing can be slipped over and held tight with > Bob> a clamp. Works great. > > Seems like the diameter of the CO2 tube and hole would be too small to pass > much gunk, especially hop leaves. (Same problem which convinces people to > use 1 inch diameter tubing for blow-off.) Have you had any problems? Yes, the hole is rather small, actual size for blow off is about 3/8". I am very careful to strain all of the hops from my wort. I have never had a problem with a plugged hole (in my kegs). As a matter of fact that is the reason I know ferment in kegs. I once had a nasty experience with a carboy that got it's blow-off hole plugged with hops. Now, If for some reason, I do end up with hops in my keg and it does get plugged up, I have two courses of action. First the pressure relief valve, and second the out tub which reaches to the bottom of the keg. Between the two I should be able to reduce the pressure enough to safely fix the block. Of course one could always take a coat hanger to the plugged up hole, but this would result in beer on your ceiling. Also, If you fear a vigorous ferment you could attach blow-off tubes to both the in and out connectors. This is what is recommended in the Zymurgy special issue "Brewers and their gadgets". > Also, are you primary-fermenting in the keg? what do you do about all the > trub? or do you transfer from your boiler in a way which leaves it all > behind? Sad to say, I don't do anything about the trub. I just ferment on it for three days. I primarily make heavy ales and don't notice any nasty side effects. If I was to make a lighter beer I would think more seriously about racking off the trub. This again brings up the main downside to fermenting in a keg. When you rack the beer off the trub or yeast you can't see where the beer ends and the gunk begins. So you either loose some precious beer or you drag along some gunk. I've found one inch to be a happy medium. I usually run the first liquid into a glass until it runs clear of debris. Of course one could experiment with different length tubs for different stages of fermenting and for different recipes. But that's a little to nerdy for me. Overall I much prefer fermenting in a keg than a five gallon glass suicide device. Your choice. - -- Robert A. Gorman (Bob) bob at rsi.com Watertown MA US -- - -- Relational Semantics, Inc. uunet!semantic!bob +1 617 926 0979 -- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri Mar 15 11:00:18 1991 From: semantic!bob at uunet.UU.NET Subject: How to use Isinglass?? All this talk about isinglass brings up an old question of mine: "What's the proper way to prepare, store and use isinglass?" I've done some research in my homebrew books and most say to follow the directions on the package. I bought some in bulk form (not pre-packaged). One makes reference to adding an acid to help dissolve the isinglass. Anybody know anything about isinglass other than that it comes from fish guts? - -- Robert A. Gorman (Bob) bob at rsi.com Watertown MA US -- - -- Relational Semantics, Inc. uunet!semantic!bob +1 617 926 0979 -- Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Mar 91 12:34:00 EDT From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> Subject: Sassafras and Cancer When I was getting my masters in public health, I was alarmed at the amount of things that were being discovered as carcinogens. I am naturally the suspicious type, so I started investigating the research methods. What I fuond was a sad state of affairs. I don't want to digress too far here, and I don't want to start a war. (If you dislike what I'm saying, flame me personally, I'll be happy to debate you.) I would go ahead and use sassafras with impunity, just as I would use red dye number two and cyclamates, were they available. Just because some substance produces cancer in lab rats when administered in absurdly huge quantities does not mean they are unfit for human consumption. All this is, of course, strictly my opinion, but in my opinion, the only thing that causes cancer in rats is experimentation itself. Dan Graham Relax, have a homebrew and some aldebutyl pyrenes. (produced when steaks are char broiled, supposedly carcinogenic, and delicious!) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 11:04:19 MST From: Rick Myers <cos.hp.com!hpctdpe!rcm at hp-lsd> Subject: Engine rebuilding, cams, etc. Full-Name: Rick Myers > I believe the problem at the low end has something to do with > a process called scavenging, where the departing exhaust gasses > help pull in the fuel mixture. I always changed to a cam with good > overlap when I was doing performance machines, and never had > a problem. Then again, I never *just* added headers. > Steph > Cams with much overlap are designed for power, not low-end torque. High torque (RV-type) cams usually have no overlap whatsoever, at the expense of losing power at higher RPM's. With no overlap, there is a good vacuum produced in the cylinder before the intake valve opens, thus, when it does, it really sucks in the fuel/air mixture. This is especially important at very low RPM. If the fuel/air velocity is not kept high at low RPM, then the mixture condenses on the walls of the intake manifold, causing stumbling and rough running (i.e. low torque). Cams with a lot of overlap do not run well at low RPM - hence the familiar 'loping' idle of 'fast' cars... Agreed, *just* adding headers is not the right thing to do. Headers are just one part of the whole system. Changing one part of the system will usually require tweaking of another part of the system. If you change the camshaft, then headers will make more sense since the engine will be able to 'breathe' better. This means that a carburetor jetting change will be required, too! Rick 'amateur mechanic with some engine building experience' Myers - -- Rick Myers rcm at hpctdpe.col.hp.com Hewlett-Packard Colorado Telecommunications Division Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 13:19 EST From: "Eric Roe" <KXR11 at PSUVM.PSU.EDU> Subject: Copper counterflow chillers Regarding the use of copper tubing for wort chillers, I believe it's the way to go. As mentioned in other posts, copper has a much better heat exchange rate that stainless steel. Copper is also easy to work with. If you're making your own chiller, sweating connections is a fairly simple procedure (not to mention kinda fun). Stainless is hard to work with and expensive. Also, I don't believe you can solder stainless -- you either have to weld it, use a compression fitting, or have the ends threaded. Since copper has had quite a long history with brewing I see no problems in using it. I just wish I was lucky enough to have an eight gallon copper kettle. Also in HBD #597 Mike Zentner writes about using 1/4" OD tubing in his chiller. I made the same mistake (Greg Noonan must be nuts to recommend such small diameter tubing). Once I got the chiller assembled I decided to test it by putting water through it. The flow rate was incredibly slow. I was using 22' of tubing and I calculated it would take over an hour for 5 gallons of water to flow through. I didn't even think about the fact wort would have a heavier gravity -- luckily I didn't try using it for my beer. After the disappointing results I took it apart and replaced the 1/4" OD tubing with 3/8" OD tubing. The chiller worked much better with the larger diameter tubing. Now I can cool 5 gallons in about 20 minutes. The flow rate would be even faster if I just made a minor modification to my system. I too would recommend using 3/8" OD tubing for making counterflow chillers. As for sterilizing, I fill the chiller with water and start a siphon. Then I put the wort-in end into a pot of boiling water and let this flow through the chiller. After the boiling water has flowed through I simply place the wort-in end into the hot wort. I turn on the counterflow cold water, the siphon continues, and voila, cold wort starts coming out. No muss, no fuss; just make sure you don't interrupt the siphon at any of the above stages. Eric <kxr11 at psuvm.psu.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 10:06:46 cst From: "Olzenak,Craig" <OLZENAK%GRIN1.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Misc. Greetings All! Thanks for the personal responses. My trip to the Pacific Northwest looks full! Much to see AND taste. John (Polstra) - I'm looking forward to our afternoon (Sun., 24 March). I'll give you a call when I get into Seattle. Cooper's, the Red Door, Big Time, et al!!! Norm (Hardy) - Many thanks for the note on your winning pale ale. Hard to beat the combination of pale and crystal malt (O.G. 45-50), Hawaiian golden brown, cascade and goldings; all crisply perked through with Wyeast 1028. A winner! To those out there who haven't seen the published recipe, see Zymurgy Special Issue '89 (vol. 12, No. 4). Mark (Castleman) - the Heartland club recently had a meeting in West Des Moines. Damn, just missed you! Next one - Sunday afternoon, April 7. Drop me a note with a street address and I'll post you a map. You and your partner are very welcome. I'm sorry to say that I won't be at that meeting. I'll be up judging in Madison's Big and Huge regional competition. Also put this date - Saturday, May 4, National Homebrew Day - in your book. We'll meet at that time. All for now, Craig Olzenak Heartland Homebrew Club Grinnell, Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 12:45:12 EST From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West x4449) Subject: Whitbread Ale yeast I've sampled a number of very different brews made with Whitbread Ale yeast and have found them all to have a sharpness that is not what I'm looking for in my brewing. I'm looking for a `breadier' flavor from the yeast. For example, Catamount (amber?) has the sharp flavor, O'Keef's from a corner store in Montreal had the bread flavor. Could anyone suggest a brand of yeast that might get me what I want? Hmmm, I wonder, might Canadian not-for-export beers have culturable yeasts? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1991 15:00 EST From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: US Open Homebrew Competition Hey, Guys. A reminder about the U.S. Open Homebrew Competition. ----------------------------------------------------------- THE U.S. OPEN HOMEBRREW COMPETITION Hosted by the CArolina Brewmasters April 27 & 28, 1991 !!! Charlotte, NC !!! Don't miss it !!! ENTRIES: due by April 12, fee is $5.00/ENTRY, 3 bottles/entry Send entries to: U.S. OPEN HOMEBREW COMPETITION c/o Alternative Beverage 114-0 Freeland Lane Charlotte, NC 28217 The Beer Judge Certification Test will be given in Charlotte on Fri. April 26. If you would be interested in judging (AHA & HWBTA Sanctioned), e-mail me at BAUGHMANR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU) Should you have any further questions, contact Doug MacKay at (704) 376-4916, out Competition Organizer, who can also help you with lodging information. SPRINGFEST '91 happens during our competition, which will allow guests from out of town to join with hundreds of thousands of people and artists from all over the country for a weekend of music and sunshine. See you in Charlotte!!!! - ------------------------------------------------------------- Cheers, Kinney Baughman : Beer is my business and baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu : I'm late for work. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 11:51:21 PST From: kentfo at polari (Kent Forschmiedt) Subject: Sassafrass When you put tree bark or roots in your boil, you will get tannins in your wort, producing unpleasant flavors. The thing to do is to crunch the stuff up and put it in a nylon or cheesecloth bag the way you would your specialty grains, and steep the stuff in the wort as it is heated to boiling, removing it when the liquid begins to boil. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 12:33:17 PST From: figmo at mica.berkeley.edu (Lynn Gold) Subject: Cream Ale Recipes, anyone? I adore Genesee Cream Ale. The local distributor of the stuff got bought out by the Coors distributor, and I'm told it's highly unlikely I'll ever get the stuff out here again. The only other Cream Ale I've seen out here was Little Kings, and I'm not too thrilled with it. Does anyone out there have a good recipe for Cream Ale? I'm due to do some brewing again soon, and I'm running out of my Gennie supply in real time. Thanks, - --Lynn P.S.--For those of you who've tried to FTP the recipe file and have found you can't, well, it's not your fault. Send me email, and I'll mail you a copy of the file. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 12:09:09 PST From: kentfo at polari (Kent Forschmiedt) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #594 (March 12, 1991) This is a very enthusiastic plug for the best brewing supply store in Seattle, Brewers Warehouse. They have a very broad selection of fresh Wyeast (I bought a packet of 1056 dated March in the third week of February), a couple of dozen varieties of hops, fresh and pellet, lots of different grains, the usual variety of extracts plus an Aussie extract that they package in bulk, and piles of other supplies, books, accessories and gadgets. They sell complete mashing systems, cornelius keg systems, etc, etc... They sell a "grain card" - you pay for 50 lbs up front, then get it in whatever quantities you want, fresh when you want it. Grain card prices are $.80/lb for klaages and $1.00/lb for other grains. Pay-as-you-go prices are a bit higher. For a catalog and accurate info, call or write: Brewers Warehouse 4520 Union Bay Place NE Seattle WA 98105 (206)527-5047 No affiliation, just a satisfied customer... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 16:48:43 EST From: Pete Soper <soper at encore.com> Subject: evaporative cooling Last July I tried using a wet T-shirt for cooling. Here is a slightly truncated repeat of the posting about that. This is a followup about evaporative cooling of fermenters. I recently [7/90] started a porter fermenting and since my fridge was tied up with lagering another beer I couldn't use it. So I used the wet T-shirt trick but this time I instrumented everything to track the actual temperatures. Note that I had a little fan blowing air on the T-shirt constantly and the fermenter (7 gallon glass holding 5.6 gallons of wort) was in a pan of water so the shirt was constantly wicking water up. Also, this was in a small bathroom which was kept with the A/C vent open fully and the door shut all the time. Outdoor highs were generally upper-80s to mid-90s and lows were around 65. The house A/C thermostat was set at 77 degrees. I had a thermometer under the T-shirt and in contact with the glass of the fermenter, an electronic thermometer probe in the wort and a third thermometer to measure the overall bathroom temperature. In addition I took rough measurements of the time between fermentation lock "glubs". Here is what I measured: Day inside under in lock glubs bathroom T-shirt wort per minute 0,1pm 65 59 75 0 0,8pm 65 59 65 1 1,8am 71 66 67 10 1,6pm 68 62 63 30 2,8am 71 66 68 120 2,6pm 65 60 62 90 2,8pm 65 60 62 40 3,8am 71 66 68 30 3,6pm 65 61 62 2 4,8am 68 65 65 4 4,6pm 64 61 61 2 5,8am 69 64 65 2 5,5pm 64 60 61 1 6,8am 70 65 65 1 I was concerned with getting the wort temperature down after pitching since it is against my religion to exceed 70 degrees with an ale fermentation and my tap water was so warm my chiller wouldn't do any better than 75. Anyway, I was pouring water on the T-shirt to augment the wicking action and hoping for the best when I put the thermometer in the wort a few hours later. I was amazed to see that the wort had cooled 10 degrees in 7 hours. Despite the large drop in temperature I had CO2 production after just a few hours and a nice cover of foam a few hours after that. Except for the first few hours I relied on the wicking action of the shirt to keep it wet. Note that it is important that the shirt be all-cotton or as close to this as possible. The more polyester in the shirt the less effective the wicking will be. One observation is that when the temperature outside the house was high the A/C ran a lot which pumped a lot of cold, dry air into the bathroom containing the fermenter. As can be seen, the wort temperature was driven down at the end of each day's A/C activity and warmed back up overnight when the A/C was almost idle (and the air in the bathroom grew warm and damp). - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Pete Soper (soper at encore.com) +1 919 481 3730 Encore Computer Corp, 901 Kildaire Farm Rd, bldg D, Cary, NC 27511 USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 91 12:25:17 PST From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at decwrl.dec.com> Subject: Terms of Embeerment (ugh!) In HOMEBREW Digest #595, Nik Subotic asked: > ... As I looked >over the sheet, I must admit that I don't quite understand some >nomenclature and symbols. The questions are: > >Under the "Malts, Grains and Adjuncts" area, there is a column >reserved for a quantity in units oL (degrees L)? I'm not familiar >with this unit convention. Anyone have an idea? "Degrees Lovibond" is a means of measuring the color contribution of the grain to the finished wort. Crystal malt, for example, is available in 20, 40, 60, .... 120 degree L gradations, and for all I know, others. If you're brewing to a specific style and need to match a color standard, you really need to know what the color contribution of each component will be. >Under the "Prodedure" section there are some unfamiliar terms: >"Mash-in, Acid Rest, and Mash-out." ... Mash-in: The initial mixing of grain & water. In thicker mashes, also known as doughing-in. The distinction between the two, as I understand it, is that in mashing-in, grain is added to water, and in doughing-in, water is added (gradually) to grain. The result, in any case, should be that all grain is wetted with warm water, and no dry pockets remain. Acid rest: Not commonly used now (but possibly about to see a revival, after Papazian's "Sour Mash" article in the latest Zymurgy), this process involves holding the grain at a mildly warm temperature to enhance the growth of lactic acid-producing bacteria on the grain husks. This would rather effectively lower the pH of the mash. Mash-out: The process of heating the mash to 168F or so, to stop enzyme action and liquify the sugars for a more efficient sparge. A couple of weeks ago I gave a copy of the column I'd written for the brewclub (Gold Country Brewers' Association) newsletter to a friend to proofread, as I value her considerable skill with the English language. Her reaction made me aware of just how specialized the brewer's vocabulary is ... = Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Staff Analyst = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 91 10:57:48 PST From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at decwrl.dec.com> Subject: More On Extract Efficiencies In HOMEBREW Digest #595, Mike Fertsch wrote: >I use a 5 gallon igloo cooler to do my mashing and sparging. I get around >30 points per gallon. I've found that extract efficiency depends on grain >type. I've had bad luck with American 2-row Klages (25-27 points per >gallon), but get 30-31 points on English 2-row. Imported grains cost more, >but, IMHO, are worth it because they give better extraction, and less grain >is needed. I do stovetop step mashing (primarily), and typically get around 35 points per pound per gallon from American 2-row pale malted barley (presumably Klages-based lager malt), and 32.5 points from English 2-row ale malts. Clearly, different equipment & methods produce different results. My lauter tun is made from a 7-gallon tapered cylindrical wastebasket, with a false bottom made from a discarded soap bucket, lined with a jellymaker's straining bag. >In addition, I've just started tracking sparge times - slower >sparges give better extraction. With my equipment, I've noticed that >bigger batches (5 gallon) give a better yield that small (3 gal) batches. >I suspect that the depth of the grain bed affects extraction. I can't claim to have quantified it, but I have the same impression about the relationship of flow rate and extraction. I now recirculate wort until the flow suddenly slows, before beginning the sparge. I get both clearer wort and better extract that way. And I've clearly seen the same effect as Mike when brewing small batches, and suspect the same cause. >The real bottom line is that the taste tells the tale, and that extraction >rate doesn't matter. I feel that beers with good extraction rates are >cleaner and better tasting than those with low extracts. Mike, you are obviously a gentleman, a scholar, and a lover of fine beer; and there's damn few of us left!! ;-) = Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Staff Analyst = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 91 12:33:33 PST From: kentfo at polari (Kent Forschmiedt) Subject: 6 oz bottles Try calling the Bridgeport Brewery in Portland, Oregon. They bottle their barley wine in 6 ouncers, and might tell you where to get them, or even sell you a couple of cases. I vaguely remember asking them myself two years ago and being horrified at the price. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 91 16:00:54 EST From: "Jeffrey R." <ST801977 at brownvm.brown.edu> Subject: Starting up Anyone: Some friends and I are thinking about brewing beer at home. I would be grateful for any information you could give me about setting up and any stores which sell the proper equipment and the best place to get recipes. (Preferably in the NYC New England Area - or mail order). Also an estimate of the initial costs of starting. Thanks a lot. JEFF (ST801977 at brownvm.brown.edu) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #598, 03/18/91 ************************************* -------
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 06/29/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96