---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  fruit in beer (Bill Crick)
  what's brewing in Boston (Jonathan Rodin)
  $$ for micro/brewpub (Russ Gelinas)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #687 -- hops plugging up siphon (Chris Shenton)
  HBD # 688 (BAUGHMANKR)
  Recipe Requests (BLI)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #688 (July 26, 1991) (Bill Dyer)
  PPM vs. mg/l (John Polstra)
  Re: kegging beer spheres (Hyrum Laney) ("Dale Wyttenbach")
  RE:Dry hopping (Mike Fertsch)
  Using distilled water (John Mireley|xxxxxx)
  re: counter pressure bottle fillers (Darryl Richman)
  re: Eureka! (L.A. Brewing) (Darryl Richman)
  various answers (korz)
  mg/L = ppm (Rich Lenihan)
  Mail order companies for homebrewing (Tan Bronson)
  Foxx fillers, pot size, #1028 yeast (Pete Soper)
  YEAST (Jack Schmidling)
  bottling & glasses (chip upsal)
  Kegging (chip upsal)


Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues]
Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 	Thu, 25 Jul 1991 10:05:25 -0400
From: hplabs!bnr-vpa!bnr-rsc!crick (Bill Crick)
Subject: fruit in beer


Regarding the request on berries (beeries;') in beer, or for than matter
any fruits. I would think that somewhere between 5 - 10lbs. of fruit
would be a good starting point, keeping in mind the strength of the 
fruit flavor, and the beer flavor. 
For example, Cherries in the Snow, has 10lbs of sour cherries, 
but their flavor is not that strong.
 I believe that boiling most fruits would be bad, because this would set the
pectin in it, and cause haze problems (or jelly). At the end of the boil,
turn off the heat, wait a few minutes, and add the crushed fruit, and steep 
for 15-30minutes, leave the fruit in the primary.
 NOTE: I also believe most larger fruits ike peaches, plums should be peeled
because the skins have some pretty bitter stuff in them. This is easily done
if you scald them in boiling water for a few minutes.

What do I know? Bill Crick  Brewius, Ergo StrawberryStout.




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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 08:48:36 -0400
From: rodin at ftp.com (Jonathan Rodin)
Subject: what's brewing in Boston

I just relocated to the Boston area and I would like to hear from other 
brewers in the area about brew clubs, supply stores, local micros, etc.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jon Rodin
rodin at ftp.com			Meanwhile, I was still thinking ...
(617) 246-0900 x261
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Date:    Fri, 26 Jul 1991 9:47:16 EDT
From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas)
Subject: $$ for micro/brewpub

Well, someone asked me to post the results of my survey of startup costs
for a microbrewery/brewpub.  So here they are:  Costs range from "A few
thousand" well into the millions.  The general consensus was that it would
take between $200 to 300K.  Big bucks. It seems that it is possible to save $$
by manufacturing your own equipment and/or buying it used.  Renovating a
building is a major cost.  Making a super-yuppie fern bar with mahogany
et al. is a major cost.  Wanting to compete with the bigger micros. will
cost you more in equipment.  It is very easy to spend alot of money very
quickly.  It is not very easy to get people (ie. banks) to give you the money.
Brewpubs/micros are still often considered fads, and restaraunts and bars
are not the most secure investment anyway.  The most important piece of
advice I received is to plan well, then plan well again, and always plan on 
being a businessman first and a brewer second.  That takes alot of the fun
out of it, but that's the way it is.  It's very similar to playing music
for a living; it's supposed to be fun, but in fact you spend alot of effort
being a businessman, in support of the fun of actually playing.  Keeping the
business in line allows you the freedom to enjoy your art/science.

Hey Darryl, speaking of used equipment, what's the chance of me picking up
some used oak casks from the Pilsner Urquell brewery?

Russ

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 10:11:39 EDT
From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #687 -- hops plugging up siphon

On Thu, 25 Jul 91 09:50:46 EDT, tamar more <ST402676 at brownvm.brown.edu> said:

tamar> he hops plug the syphon and it takes about three times of restarting
tamar> the syphon to get all the beer out, and we end up with stirring up
tamar> more sediment than we like.

Put the hops in a hop bag. They're pretty cheap, and you can get disposable
cheesecloth-like ones, or reusable nylon ones.

I use the nylon ones for all my hopping and they keep things neat.

(You could always just use cheesecloth, or probably nylon)


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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1991 11:29 EST
From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU
Subject: HBD # 688

Various and sundry comments from HBD # 688:

>From: tamar more <ST402676 at brownvm.brown.edu>

>we have a question concerning racking after having dry hopped. when we rack
>to the bottling bucket, the hops plug the syphon and it takes about three
>times of restarting the syphon to get all the beer out, and we end up with
>stirring up more sediment than we like. we have
>tried tying screen over the syphon but the hops just end up clogging the
>screen. 

Try tying a copper (or stainless) wound pot scrubber around the pick-up tube 
before tying the screen on.  It will increase the surface area making it more 
difficult to clog. 

>the problem is compounded by the secondary being one of those glass
>carboys that has a fairly narrow neck, so the solution to our
>problem has to be under an inch in diameter... any ideas?

It'll be a tight fit but it should work.

>From: stuart at ads.com (Stuart Crawford)

>I find bottling to be pretty boring, and am thinking of buying one of
>those Edme plastic dispensers.  The way I understand it, you go
>through primary and secondary fermentation as usual, but prime in
>this dispenser.

>What kind of experience have you folks had with this device?     

No personal experience but the consensus is thumbs down.  Old soda 
kegs are the way to go.  They cost more to begin with because you need 
a CO2 keg but in the end you will be much more pleased with them.

>In particular, does it reliably maintain carbonation if you drink your
>beer over a fairly long (one or two months) period of time?

Holding and regulating the pressure are the most common complaints 
with these things.  Moreover, they're plastic...

>From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West)

>OK, so how much yeast is too much yeast?

Greg Noonan recommends 1/4 c. slurry per 5 gallon batch.

>What are the flavor repercussions?

I'm not sure about this one but I think excessive esters will be 
produced in a too rapid fermentation.

>Are there any warning signs?

Yeah, beer foaming all over the place.  Fermentation over in a couple 
of days.

>If I pitch a whole lot-o-yeast, should I not aerate so much?

You can't aerate too much unless you're shooting straight O2 into the 
cooled wort.  The beautifully simple suggestion of drilling an 1/8" 
(or two?) hole towards the end of the siphon hose sounds like the way 
to go.  It wouldn't hurt to slosh the beer around in the fermenter as 
well.

Do this to cool wort, though. As Martin Lodahl pointed out a couple of 
months ago, one should not try aerating warm or hot wort. 

>Does overpitching cause `yeast bite'?

I don't know.  I've never tasted anything like 'yeast bite'.  My dog 
bites.  Snakes bite.  But frankly, my yeast don't bite!!  Can't speak 
for anyone else's though.  :-)

>If not, what does cause it?

Who knows.  Methinks it's a myth.

>What does it taste like?

Don't know what it tastes like but it hurts like hell.

>Does it go away with age?

No.  I think the scars are there for life.

Mal Card asks:

  There is a 20 quart stainless steel pot (light guage) on
  sale at Lechmere's for $27.00. Usually only $35.00.

  Would this this be an adequate size for an all-grain brew?
  Or is all-grain boiling as subject to boilovers as extract
  boiling?

20 quarts (5 gallons) just isn't big enough.  You'll boil away a 
gallon of liquid and have a gallon of trub left in the bottom of the 
kettle when you make an all-grain beer.  7 gallons is a minimum as far 
as convenience goes.  You can get away with 6 gallons by topping up at 
the end of the boil. 
 
>From: Mark Nickel <hplabs!kpc!uunet!canrem!mark.nickel>

>My latest effort has seen me attempt to make Papazian's honey lager.
>After making, cooling, and then shaking the hell out of my wort, I
>added a package of liquid lager yeast which I had started several days
>earlier.  I then placed my wort in the fridge.  It has been 32 hours
>and so far nothing.  Should I have waited for active fermentation before
>placing the wort in the fridge?  

Much ink has been spilled and many terminal keys tapped on this one.  
Some say you should cool the wort down as far as you can to increase 
the cold break as much as possible and pitch.  This will definitely 
increase the lag time, though, as you are finding out.  IF you have 
been your usual scrupulously clean and sterile self, a long lag phase 
won't hurt the beer.

The other camp (and the one I subscribe to) is cool the wort to 70 
degrees and pitch.  Yeast propogates quite rapidly at 70 degrees and 
fermentation is likely to get off to a quick and rapid start.  After 
pitching, wait a few hours, and put the fermenter in the fridge.  By 
the time the wort cools to fermenting temperature, the yeast will be 
up and running.

And as for the continuing running commentary of late:  Yes, I think 
Darryl Richman   (Did someone say Darryl Richman again?)   IS an alias 
- -- for Poor Darryl Man.  Poor fellow sure has been taking our abuse 
well.  But, hey, in real life (if he has a real life) they (they 
prefer to remain anonymous) say he's a swell guy (yeah, sure!).  I've 
even heard he's a closet Southerner living in California.  

By Gawd, theah's hope fuh the boy yet!! 


Kinney Baughman                 | Doc.  There's this name, this name...
baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu  | It keeps ringing in my ears....




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Date:    Fri, 26 Jul 91 12:14 EDT
From: BLI at PSUVM.PSU.EDU
Subject: Recipe Requests

In my next few batches I'd like to try and duplicate some continental beers but
I've not been able to find a good source for recipes to do so.  If any of you
have recipes (extract or mash) for the following, pass them along!  Thanks!

     1.  Grolsch Premium Lager
     2.  Einbecker or Ayinger Maibock
     3.  Monkshof?  Weisenfestbeir (their wheaty Oktoberfest beer)
     4.  "Optimator" Dopplebock

- --then all I have to do is wait for the winter and nice cold cellars!

Oh, one more silly thing...any opinions on those british-style plastic mini-keg
things?  I saw one that'd hold an entire batch in a catalog and thought how I'd
love to never have to bottle again...but is it worth it?  Any problems like "it
has to be consumed in one sitting", or "you can't chill it" or whatever...

Thanks again!

JeffB
PennState

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 11:24:25 CDT
From: dyer at marble.rtsg.mot.com (Bill Dyer)
Subject: Re:  Homebrew Digest #688 (July 26, 1991)


>Date: Thu, 25 Jul 91 15:29:27 EDT
>From: rich at progress.COM (Rich Lenihan)
>Subject: Glassware answer and water questions
>


>   1.  What is MP204? 

No clue, see if you can find the container it came in and check the ingedient list.

>   2.  Both the town and apartment water analysis report substances in
>       terms of milligrams per litre but all of the brewing guides
>       I've read talk about ppm (parts per million).  Is there any
>       way to convert mg/l into ppm?

I think this is correct if I remember my chemistry correctly.  I'll double check tonight
just to make sure.  

OK, for a solid disolved in some liquid:

ppm = (10^6 * wsolid * awliquid * m)/(awsolid * wliquid)

where

10^6 = 1,000,000
wsolid = weight of solid in grams
awliquid = atomic wieght of the liquid. This is 18 for water if I remember correctly.
m = number of atoms or molecules of the thing you are interested in that a given solid
 	contributes to solution per molecule of the solid (this is important
	for salts, which is mainly what we are interested in in checking the chemistry of the
	brew water.  For instance if you are adding CaCl2 to water m would be 1 when calculating 
	ppm for Ca but would be 2 when calculating ppm for Cl.  (This has an official term
	but I can't remember it, molality maybe?)
awsolid = atomic weight of solid (your on your own with this one, get a periodic chart).
wliquid = weight of liquid in grams (1 cc of water weighs 1 gram at 4 degrees C).

If any of the above is incorrect, please let me know.  If anyone wants the derivation of the
above equation let me know, I'll send it to them.


>Rich Lenihan                 UUCP: mit-eddie!progress!rich
>Progress Software Corp.      Internet: rich at progress.com
>5 Oak Park                   Real life:  20-I Brandywine Drive
>Bedford, MA  01730                       Shrewsbury, MA 01545
>USA                                      (508) 754-7502


   


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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 10:19:30 PDT
From: polstra!jdp at uunet.UU.NET (John Polstra)
Subject: PPM vs. mg/l

In HBD #688, rich at progress.COM (Rich Lenihan) asks about converting
between parts per million and milligrams per liter:

> Both the town and apartment water analysis report substances in terms
> of milligrams per litre but all of the brewing guides I've read talk
> about ppm (parts per million).  Is there any way to convert mg/l into
> ppm?

Sure!  To convert from PPM to mg/l, just multiply by 1.0.  To convert
from mg/l to PPM, divide by 1.0.  Or is it the other way around ... ? :-)

No, seriously folks ... for all practical purposes, the two units of
measure are the same.

   John Polstra               polstra!jdp at uunet.uu.net
   Polstra & Co., Inc.           ...!uunet!polstra!jdp
   Seattle, Washington USA              (206) 932-6482
   "Self-knowledge is always bad news."  -- John Barth

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 13:00:56 CDT
From: "Dale Wyttenbach" <wytten at turtle.fw.umn.edu>
Subject: Re: kegging beer spheres (Hyrum Laney)

> 
> I am interested in kegging my homebrew and am thinking about using a
> beer sphere (party ball).  I have seen something called a Batch Latch
> which allows you to refill and pressurize the balls.  Has anyone used
> this system?  

Yes, I just started brewing this year, and since I am lazy I knew
from the start that I wasn't willing to bottle.  I borrowed a friend's
copy of Zymurgy, and saw the advertisement for the beer sphere.  Mark
Fritz was the name of the company, in Potsdam, NY...although they
answered the phone by a different name the last time I called.
I called up and ordered the home draft system for $180 because it sounded
like a good price to me.  That consisted of a batch latch (which mounts
on the top of a party ball making it reusable), a 5.2gal ball, a 5lb
CO2 tank (filled), regulator, plus all the necessary hoses, etc.  
Additional batch latches are overpriced at $19.95 each, but I got one
a few weeks later in order to have multiple batches going.  You also
need disposable seals for each batch of beer, at a cost of about $1 each.
These are punctured when you tap the ball.  I bought a ball of Coors
(yech, I gave the beer to a friend for his birthday) and the system
works well that reclaimed ball.

I have no complaints about the system; it works well.  However, I think
now that for the same money I could have gotten more sturdy kegs than
the party balls.

> How do the beer balls compare to soda kegs?

Since I haven't used soda kegs, I can't answer this, except to say
that it seems to me that the soda kegs are a more convenient shape,
plus they have the handles on top.

dale


- -- 
 Dale Wyttenbach     | We all shine on,
 wytten at cs.umn.edu   | like the moon, the stars and the sun.
                     |                                      --John Lennon

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 13:45 EDT
From: Mike Fertsch <FERTSCH at adc1.adc.ray.com>
Subject: RE:Dry hopping

tamar more <ST402676 at brownvm.brown.edu> asked about dry hops clogging his 
siphon:

> we have a question concerning racking after having dry hopped. when we rack
> to the bottling bucket, the hops plug the syphon and it takes about three
> times of restarting the syphon to get all the beer out, and we end up with
> stirring up more sediment than we like. we have tried tying screen over the
> syphon but the hops just end up clogging the screen. the problem is
> compounded by the secondary being one of those glass carboys that has a
> fairly narrow neck, so the solution to our problem has to be under an inch
> in diameter...any ideas? 

1) Use the shift key on your keyboard.  Capiatalized, mixed-case prose is 
easier to read.  Capital letters act like fining agents - they attract the 
hops, allowing cleaner siphoning ;-)

2) Put your dry hops in a mesh bag.  No hops will get into the siphon.  The
problem with this is that you might have problems removing the bag from the 
carboy.  I solve this problem by doing my dry hopping in a Cornelluis keg.

Mike Fertsch

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 14:56:33 EDT
From: John Mireley|xxxxxx <mireley at horus.cem.msu.edu>
Subject: Using distilled water

Assuming that I use all malt exract to brew;

What is the minimum treatment when using distilled water in brewing in
general?

What would be a good distilled water treatment for a Brown/Amber Ale?

What would be a good distilled water treatment for a Light Lager or Pilsner?

What should I do with fresh (just off the vine) hops before using them?
What are the likely results if I just toss them in the last few minutes
of the boil without doing anything?

Is there anyone from MI that can tell me what style of beer Kalamazoo 
Brewery's "Third Coast Ale" is? How about an approximate receipe? 

Can anyone from MI tell me how the Frankenmuth, Kalamazoo, and Detroit
(in Frankenmuth) brewery's beers rate. I've tried and enjoyed a few of
them and would like some pointers.

Thanks 

John Mireley

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 07:22:43 -0700
From: darryl at ism.isc.com (Darryl Richman)
Subject: re: counter pressure bottle fillers

Well, I was going to hold my tongue (yech!), but Marty Albini voiced
exactly my feelings about the brass Foxx unit.  I have played with a
couple of them, and even though $20 seemed pretty cheap, I didn't
buy one because of the problems he mentions.  However, I did pay $50
for the stainless unit that Scott Birdwell is selling at DeFalcos in
Houston, and I am quite happy.  This has big plastic knobs and the
beer/CO2 valve is a three way, quarter turn on-off-on valve.  The
stainless pieces have got to cost more than the $50--Scott wink-winked
me and said his supplier works for some defense industry place, and
the supply can be a bit irregular.  I suggest you go for it, as a
very satisfied customer.

		--Darryl Richman


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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 07:44:21 -0700
From: darryl at ism.isc.com (Darryl Richman)
Subject: re: Eureka! (L.A. Brewing)

Ken Weiss says that it's loud inside of Eureka! and that's very true.
The sharp corners and hard surfaces are intended to reflect noise, as
is the current trend in trendy restaurant design.

It's also outrageously expensive if you did think to make reservations
several weeks in advance.  (Did anyone see LA Story, where Steve Martin
goes in for the interview to get a reservation at the chic restaurant?
Eureka has a somewhat selective dress code...)  My uncle the gourmet
thought my wife and I would appreciate a $50 gift certificate there,
but even though I had only two beers and she had an iced tea, dinner was
still another $20 on top of that.  The food *was* interesting and well
prepared.  And the beer at the bar is normally priced (as it ought to
be).  Puck's published remarks are that only Pilsner goes with any kind
of food, and really only with a few things like sausages.  That
blasphemy alone makes it difficult for me to go back there...

		--Darryl Richman

P.S.  To all the adoring fans, yes... it's true:  this is just a facade
account and nome d'plume for Steve Russell (srussell at snoopy.msc.cornell.edu),
one of those lovable rascals at Cornell, where there is nothing better to
do than drink.  IBU, UBMe, We All B Each Other.


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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 11:39 CDT
From: korz at ihlpl.att.com
Subject: various answers

Bill asks about pin- vs. ball-lock kegs:
>Is one somehow better then the other?  Or is the ball-lock and pin-lock just
>so Pepsi stuff won't work with Coke stuff?

As far as I know, neither is better than the other.  The main reason to
choose one over the other is availability of used kegs in your area
(if you plan to buy used kegs).  I bought all of mine new from Foxx,
so availability was not an issue (not that I think it would have been
here in the Chicago metro area).


tamar & steve ask about hops clogging up the racking tube:
>we have a question concerning racking after having dry hopped. when we rack
>to the bottling bucket, the hops plug the syphon and it takes about three
>times of restarting the syphon to get all the beer out, and we end up with
>stirring up more sediment than we like.

Are you using hop pellets?  Since I started dryhopping (last brewing
season) I would never do without.  My beers finally have the bouquet
that a SNPA or Sam Adams have.  I love it!!!  Anyway, I have always
used whole (leaf) hops instead of pellets for dryhopping and they
simply float on top (even up to 6 weeks -- that's the longest I've
dryhopped).  I still use pellets for the boil -- they stay fresh
longer.  I use a hop bag in the boil and just throw the hop leaves
into the fermentor after the krauesen falls.  I've yet to have a
clog or to break the siphon since I've started to dryhop.


Al.
korz at ihlpl.att.com

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 15:42:35 EDT
From: rich at progress.COM (Rich Lenihan)
Subject: mg/L = ppm


   Boy, do I feel dumb!  (Well, not dumb, really, just metrically
impaired.)  As some people were nice enough to point out:

   a.  1 litre = 1000 grams
   b.  1 gram = 1000 milligrams
   c.  from a and b we have - 1 litre = 1,000,000 mg
   d.  from c - mg/L and ppm are the same

   Please correct me if this is wrong.  If everything about making
beer were this simple, there'd be no fun in it ;-)


Rich Lenihan                 UUCP: mit-eddie!progress!rich
Progress Software Corp.      Internet: rich at progress.com
5 Oak Park                   Real life:  20-I Brandywine Drive
Bedford, MA  01730                       Shrewsbury, MA 01545
USA                                      (508) 754-7502


   



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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 15:15:24 EDT
From: yale!bronson!tan at uunet.UU.NET (Tan Bronson)
Subject: Mail order companies for homebrewing

    Could someone please direct me to mail order places where I can buy the
parts for my first homebrewing as well as books? Does a FAQ exist for
this digest?

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 16:35:02 EDT
From: Pete Soper <soper at encore.com>
Subject: Foxx fillers, pot size, #1028 yeast


>        Speaking (well, typing, anyway) as a
>generally-satisfied Foxx customer and owner of one of their
>counter pressure fillers...

>        DON'T BUY ONE!

  I agree 100% with Marty's assessment of the Foxx filler. I spent
$30 for ball valves and built a pop-off pressure regulator and 
now after overhauling my Foxx filler I get decent results without
turning the air blue or needing any bandaids. But for the total 
investment I could have bought a different filler in the first 
place and missed out on all the fun.

>  There is a 20 quart stainless steel pot (light guage) on
>  sale at Lechmere's for $27.00. Usually only $35.00.

>  Would this this be an adequate size for an all-grain brew?
>  Or is all-grain boiling as subject to boilovers as extract
>  boiling?

   Sure, for a 3-3.5 gallon batch size. All-grain brewing is
   subject to initial boil volumes larger than the eventual
   batch size. For a 5 gallon batch size you will be happier 
   with an 8 gallon pot.

korz at ihlp.att.com quoted an old message from me that had this:
>>
>>I got nailed a couple times by #1028 (don't remember its "name"). I
>>found it unreliable and in one case it was clearly defective.
>>

This is now called "London Ale" yeast by Wyeast. The problems I
referred to happened quite some time ago and Wyeast was honest
about the situation and withdrew the strain for several months.
It was reintroduced and in the 18 months or so since I made the 
comments quoted above I've used this strain
a lot, from Wyeast packets, after plating it out on dishes and 
from slants. I've had no new problems and have found 
this yeast to make wonderful ales with complex flavor profiles.

- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Pete Soper (soper at encore.com)                           +1 919 481 3730
Encore Computer Corp, 901 Kildaire Farm Rd, bldg D, Cary, NC 27511  USA

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 91 22:57 CDT
From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: YEAST

 
 To: Homebrew Digest
 Fm: Jack Schmidling
 
 
                            BEER YEAST
 
 Every book I have ever read and every person I have asked, says bread yeast 
 makes yucky beer but I have never heard it from anyone who has ever actually 
 tried it.
 
 I would like to hear from someone who has made good beer with beer yeast that 
 has tried bread yeast.
 
 In light of the fact that all beer and ale yeast are the same species as 
 bread yeast, I find it hard to believe that any residual taste could be 
 significantly different.
 
 I am even having a hard time believing there is a difference between top and 
 bottom fermenting yeasts.  They look and act pretty much the same, as far as 
 I can tell.
 
 jack
 
 
 

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Date: 27 Jul 91 08:02:45 EDT
From: chip upsal <70731.3556 at compuserve.com>
Subject: bottling & glasses

>I got my Cornelius keg mostly to bypass the onerous chores
>associated with bottling my homebrews, but sometimes I'd like to
>bottle some of a batch anyway -- for
>transportability.


I purchaced a counterpressure bottle filler from DeFalcos in Texas (214)
233-7895.  I am very happy with it.

There is also an old artical in Zymurgy on how to make one yourself.

A Diatz ask:

>,Where can I find a good selection of bar
>glassware?  I need pilsner glasses, pint mugs,
>and pint glasses.

I got some nice glassware from The Brewery in New York (800) 762-2560


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Date: 28 Jul 91 01:12:47 EDT
From: chip upsal <70731.3556 at compuserve.com>
Subject: Kegging

>I find bottling to be pretty boring, and am thinking of buying one of
>those Edme plastic dispensers.  The way I understand it, you go
>through primary and secondary fermentation as usual, but prime in
>this dispenser.

If you hate bottling go for a stainless soda keg setup.  It might cost more
on the outset but it will be well worth it.

>What kind of experience have you folks had with this device?

None personally, but everyone that I have heard of that had one eventually
swithed to the stainless setup.


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #689, 07/29/91
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