---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Bad Burst (Curt Freeman)
  beer ball kegging (dave ballard)
  Repitching Yeast ("William F. Pemberton")
  Homebrew Digest #745 (October 22, 1991) (David Resch)
  Re:Coffee in beer (Dances with Workstations)
  siphon and brewpot ("KATMAN.WNETS385")
  gak & gerry's First All-Grain Batch! (Richard Stueven)
  Coffe Beer and stuff (Tim Anderson)
  repitching (krweiss)
  RE>HBD #745 (Coffee & Beer) (Rad Equipment)
  Re:Repitching technique (TSAMSEL)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #745 (October 22, 1991) (Mike Sharp)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #745 (October 22, 1991)  (mcnally)
  bud label (Russ Gelinas)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #745 (October 22, 1991) (Bob Jones)
  Grapes in beer? (Chuck Coronella)
  Groat(s) (Mike Daly)
  Zip City and NJ Brewpubs (Bob Hettmansperger)
  Zip City and NJ Brewpubs
  Re: Father Barleywine's yeast reuse trick (hersh)
  List of Microbrewies and Brewpubs (Greg J. Pryzby)
  Hop Tea (cc)
  Cranberry Ale (doug)
  Seeking Variations to Rocky Raccoon (Pat Patterson)
  adding egg white: to clarify (MEHTA01)
  Mead at brewpubs (Dieter Muller)


Send submissions to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues!]
Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 7:48:00 EDT
From: Curt Freeman <curtf at hpwart.wal.hp.com>
Subject: Bad Burst
Full-Name: Curt Freeman


- --
 Curt Freeman         | INTERNET curtf at hpwala.wal.hp.com
 Hewlett-Packard      | HP DESK  curt_freeman at hp1700.desk.hp.com
 175 Wyman Street     | FON: (617) 290-3406
 Waltham, MA. 02254   | FAX: (617) 890-5451



Return to table of contents


Date: 22 Oct 1991   8:19 EDT
From: dab at pyuxe.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard)
Subject: beer ball kegging


Hey now-  Has anyone had any experience, good or bad, with using one
of the numerous systems to keg in a used beer ball?  There was a review 
of one of the systems (don't remember the name) in the last zymurgy that
seemed relatively positive, but I'd like a little more input from you
guys (and girls...). 

later!

 -dab

==========================================================================
dave ballard
dab at pyuxe.cc.bellcore.com



Return to table of contents


Date:     Tue Oct 22 09:37:12 1991
From: "William F. Pemberton" <wfp5p at euclid.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Subject:  Repitching Yeast


Karl Desch asked about repitching yeast.

What I do is collect some of the yeast sediment in a sanitized bottle (I
usually try to get 1/4 to 1/2 a bottle), cap it, and put it in the
refrigerator.  I have successfully stored and reused yeast for up to 1
month this way.  I don't really know what the limit would be, 1 month is
just my upper limit for being relaxed about it.

I use the BrewCap system, so the collection is a very simple task.

Bill
(flash at virginia.edu)

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 08:48:46 MDT
From: resch at craycos.com (David Resch)
Subject: Homebrew Digest #745 (October 22, 1991)

>Saaz hops are fairly low alpha acid hops in the 3.5-4.0 percent range.  

Without having any information with me at work, I made this incorrect 
statement in a digest reply yesterday.  When I got home, I looked up the alpha
acid content of Saaz hops and found that it was a little higher than I thought.
One reference listed Saaz as being in the 4-6% alpha acid range and a second 
reference listed them as being about 5% alpha acid.

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 08:04:10 PDT
From: Dances with Workstations <buchman at marva1.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Re:Coffee in beer

To Tom Manteufel,

> in my readings, I came upon quite a few other old recipes, such as
> Persimmon Beer (which looks like an alcoholic fruit drink), Corn Stalk Beer
> (yes, made from green corn stalks) and the beer recipe from a virginian 
> gentleman named Geo. Washington.  If I get enough mail requests (more than 5),
> I'll post those too.

Register one unit of interest.

To Marc Light:

> ... Any thoughts on the proper technique for
> incorporating coffee in the brewing process?
> ....  I was planning on making around a gallon of drip
> coffee, cooling it down and placing it in the primary with 2
> gallons of fresh water before pouring the semi-cool wort in.  What
> do you think?

I think it's a great idea but too much. Coffee, like spices and spruce,
will quickly dominate the taste of your beer. I "dry-beaned" a 5 gallon
batch of stout with a bit less than 1/5 cup Peruvian dark roast coffee beans.
The coffee taste was definitely noticeable; if I had doubled the amount and/or
ground the beans beforehand it would probably have tasted like coffee beer.
I'd start with a smaller amount of coffee and, if you like the effect,
increase it in later batches. Let us know how it turns out.
				Jim Buchman
				buchman at marva1.enet.dec.com

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 14:40 GMT
From: "KATMAN.WNETS385" <6790753%356_WEST_58TH_5TH_FL%NEW_YORK_NY%WNET_6790753 at mcimail.com>
Subject: siphon and brewpot



     Date: 22-Oct-91      Time: 10:39 AM       Msg: EXT02122

Hi,
When starting a siphon one of the two books I have (Miller or Papazian) said if
you have to suck on the hose to start a siphon, suck on some high proof alcohol
before doing it (and swish it well around your mouth). I got pretty looped
bottling my first batch (NOT the plan, I tried not to swallow much at all, but
I'm a small person), and this time tried starting with water in the siphon
tube. Fill the tube with water, stick the source end in, keep the middle
pinched, let water go into a bucket, pinch, put now beery end into target and
let go. Works nicely. The Fall issue of Zymurgy suggested (at least from
carboys into stuff) one of those 2-plug rubber carboy caps. Stick your hose
through the bigger one, blow hard through the smaller one until pressure forces
beer out your tube. You can stop blowing when your siphon is going. Honestly,
I'd probably pass out on that one, but it might be easier than it sounds.

I had occasion to pick up my nearly full ceramic-coated boiling pot, and heard
those ominous "crackle" sounds from the handles. Well, guess what my next big
investment is gonna be? Can those handles be welded back on if they come off?
Has anyone had a pot fail like this and written to the company that makes them?
After all, if they make them that big, they should expect someone to fill them
up and then have to move them....

Lee Katman == Thirteen/WNET == New York, NY

=Do not= use REPLY or ANSWERBACK, I can not receive mail in that fashion.
Please send all mail to
INTERNET katman.wnets385%wnet_6790753 at mcimail.com
OR
MCIMAIL EMS: wnet 6790753  MBX: katman.wnets385



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 08:45:48 PDT
From: Richard.Stueven at Corp.Sun.COM (Richard Stueven)
Subject: gak & gerry's First All-Grain Batch!

Gerry and I finally took the plunge and brewed our first all-grain
batch last Saturday.  The recipe ("Redcoat's Revenge Porter", although
we'll probably come up with a different name by Bottling Day) came from
the Sept/Oct 1991 issue of "The New Brewer" magazine.  If this stuff is
even remotely drinkable, we're *never* using extracts again!  Here's
the approximate recipe...I don't have my exact notes in front of me (I
need to get this stuff on-line!):

	7.5# pale malted barley
	1# 10L crystal malt
	0.5# chocolate malt
	2 oz black patent malt
	1.5 oz Cluster hops (60 min)
	1.0 oz Cascade hops (10 min)
	1.2 oz Cascade hops (finish) (recipe called for Talisman, but I
		couldn't find any)
	Wyeast British

	Added all grains to cold water, raised to 150F and maintained
	150-155F for 90 minutes, stirring constantly.
	Sparged with ~4.5 gallons of 170F water to total volume of 6
	gallons.
	Added Cluster hops, boiled 50 minutes.
	Added first Cascade hops, boiled 10 minutes.
	Added second Cascade hops
	Chilled to ~80F, racked & pitched.
	OG 1048.  Volume ~5 gallons.

We saved more than $15, compared to what we usually spend on an extract
batch!  The procedure was much easier than we thought - I can brew an
extract batch by myself in 4 hours (including cleanup), but this batch
took the two of us only 5.5 hours.

Our biggest concerns were that we wouldn't be able to control the
temperature accurately enough (kettle covers two burners on electric
stove), and that we wouldn't be able to get enough water hot enough to
sparge.  Somehow we did it, and all that's left is the waiting.

Any comments/suggestions on our procedures?

have fun

gak

Richard Stueven       AHA# 22584 |----------| You talk to me about picking up
Internet:       gak at Corp.Sun.COM |----GO----| the slack, then you turn around
ATTMAIL:         ...!attmail!gak |---SHARX--| and stab me right in the back...
Cow Palace: Sec 107 Row F Seat 8 |----------| Talk Is Cheap.

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 08:32:52 PDT
From: tima at apd.MENTORG.COM (Tim Anderson)
Subject: Coffe Beer and stuff

Mark Light sez:

>> I mixed an espresso with 12oz of Bass ale at a Pub recently and was
>> pleasantly surprised.  Any thoughts on the proper technique for
>> incorporating coffee in the brewing process?  I'm sure this idea
>> has been discussed before, thus perhaps replies via email would be
>> the way to go.  ...

If so, I missed it.  I've been wondering about the same thing recently.  The
inspiration was a pint of Appleton Brown Ale at The Swans in Victoria, B.C.
It reminded me of a rich coffee dessert of some sort.  Got me so excited, I
came home and tried my first batch of brown ale.  It's in the bottle 3 days.
Just thinking about it makes me so crazy I ...


Sorry about that, I'm back.  Well the point is, I seriously considered tossing
in some coffee grounds, but since it was my first crack at this style, I
decided to keep it simple.  But as I gaze longingly at my empty carboy,
remembering that brown, creamy head, the dark, warm, malty aroma ...


Oh Wow, that was great.  Anyhow, forget the private email.  If somebody has
tried coffee in some form or another, let's hear about it.


 tim

Tim Anderson                     (tim_anderson at mentorg.com)
Mentor Graphics Corporation      (anybody got a cigarette?)


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1991 08:55:35 -0800
From: krweiss at ucdavis.edu
Subject: repitching

Karl Desch asks:

>how does one remove the yeast from the secondary and store it before repitching
>so that no nasties get involved?  I use british ale yeast for pale ales but I
>don't enjoy spending five bucks a pop.  If anyone can give me some advice beforethe 25th of October I >would sure appreciate it.

I use the simplest possible method -- I don't store the yeast at all. I set
a batch of beer to boiling on the stove, and watch it long enough to be
confident it won't boil over. Then I go down to the basement and bottle a
batch from one of my secondary fermentors, leaving the yeast sediment
behind in the carboy. About the time I get done bottling, the beer on the
stove is ready to chill. I chill it, put it in my primary fermentor, and
dump in the yeast slurry from the secondary that I just bottled.

Last time I did this the yeast in the secondary was fresher than usual, due
to an accelerated holiday brewing schedule. I had vigorous fermentation in
six hours, using Wyeast American ale yeast.

Ken Weiss               krweiss at ucdavis.edu
Computing Services      916/752-5554
U.C. Davis
Davis, CA 95616


Return to table of contents


Date: 22 Oct 91 08:56:59
From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU>
Subject: RE>HBD #745 (Coffee & Beer)

        Reply to:   RE>HBD #745 (Coffee & Beer)
Rather than using Drip coffee and cooling (as Marc Light suggests) I'd try a
cold water method.  My local coffee retailer sells a system which makes
"Turkish Extract".  The process involves soaking 1lb of fine (espresso) grind
coffee in 2 quarts of cold water for 24 hours.  This is then filtered and the
remaining liquid is used like instant coffee (1/4 cup extract to 1 cuo hot
water).  The resulting coffee has none of the acid harshness which is usally
found (especially in very dark roasts).  Many cream & sugar folks can drink
this stuff straight.

My point is that if you prepare coffee this way for use in brewing you avoid
extra acid (as well as the oils extracted under the hot water method) in your
wort.  Sorry to say that I have not made any tests along this line (I'm not
drinking all that much coffee these days).  Also you could add this extract
after fermentation to adjust for taste.  Just boil up a little of the extract
and Dry Hop with it, sort of...

Just a thought.  Oh yes, the gizmo to make this costs about $15 at Peets in San
Francisco.  You could as easily use a large pot and a Melita (sp?) filter.

RW...



Return to table of contents


Date:    Tue, 22 Oct 1991 12:37:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: TSAMSEL at ISDRES.ER.USGS.GOV
Subject: Re:Repitching technique

Well, I take a sanitized small tupperware container and pour some of the slurry
into it with some cooled boiled water with a bit of dme or sugar or honey boiled
with it. I then close the container and put it into the refrigerator, venting iy
it on occasion. I have kept it successfully for 4-5 days before pitching.
I do let it come to room temp. before pitching.
  No worries,
   Ted

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 12:38:41 EDT
From: Mike Sharp <msharp at cs.ulowell.edu>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #745 (October 22, 1991)

In HBD #745, Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov> writes:
> In HBD #744, Mike Sharp <msharp at cs.ulowell.edu> writes:
> > I'll be moving up a homemade stainless setup soon.
> Which prompts me to take this survey...
> 
> I'm casting about for ideas for a simple-to-use brewing setup -- perhaps
> gravity feed, no siphoning, etc -- maybe something like the triple bucket
> systems sketched in the Zymurgy adverts. My housemate's got a Oxy-Acetylene
> welding set and he's looking for a fun project :-)

First, a comment.  Chris, make sure your housemate knows how to weld
stainless!

Chris' question actually goes along with a question I have.  I'm about to
help construct a 15gal mash-tun using an old keg.  (fwiw, this is
not my system.  mine is already designed)  When I was at the last
AHA conference there was a workshop on making a 15gal keg system.
In this workshop it was said that the false bottom of the mash
tun could be rested on the ______.  The question is, what do I
fill in the blank with?  does it rest on the bottom most weld
or on the lowest reenfocing bead in the side of the keg?

[minor commercialism warning]
Dan Hall & I are now the proud co-owners of a sheet of 18gauge perforated
stainless thats about 3'x8' with 1/8" offset holes.  Its somewhere around
30% open.  If anyone needs some drop Dan or I some mail.  Obviously this
is *much* more than either of us needs.
[hope that was both tastefull and brief enough :-) ]

	--Mike


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 10:25:57 -0700
From: mcnally at Pa.dec.com
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #745 (October 22, 1991) 


Says Chris Shenton :
    
    (The heretic) Marc Rouleau <mer6g at fuggles.acc.Virginia.EDU> writes:
    
    Marc> Last spring I also stopped using bleach...
    
    This is fantastic -- it's great to hear all the old myths deflated!

Well, I would hardly call one example of success a deflation...

    On the sanitation issue itself -- not the idea of iconoclasm -- it
    makes sense that if the wort is boiled, it's clean; the yeast-cake
    carboy must be too, and if you keg in a just-emptied keg, it too is
    clean (besides, at this point the alcohol should help prevent
    infections).

There's not enough alcohol in beer to really stop infection; if there
were, there'd be no such thing as infected beer.  I agree that the carboys 
will be somewhat clean, but realize that while the carboy is open it's
exposed to every mote of dust that drops in.  Note also that much
household dust consists of discarded human skin cells.  Yes, the yeast
population is sufficient to overwhelm most bacterial infections, but
it is still true that some beer does become infected.

I'm happy that some people don't work on sanitation.  I don't really
care what you do, if you're happy with your beer.  I live in a 
relatively small apartment with two dogs, two cats, and two lovebirds.
I keep the windows open most of the time.  I have no doubt that the
biota in the atmosphere of my kitchen is of an amazing variety.  I
sanitize diligently.

    I'm not necessarily advocating everyone throwing away their bleach
    -- just intrigued at how much aggravation can be eliminated by
    taking advantage of existing conditions and already-known-clean
    equipment.

I really don't see where the aggravation comes from.  I mean, it's not
really much work to slosh around some chlorine solution in a glass jug.

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike McNally                                           mcnally at wsl.dec.com 
Digital Equipment Corporation 
Western Software Lab

Return to table of contents


Date:    Tue, 22 Oct 1991 13:21:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas)
Subject: bud label

  I copied this off a label of an *old* (clear) Budweiser bottle:

"We guarantee that this beer is brewed especially for the trade according to
the Budweiser Process of the best Saazer Hops and finest barley, and warranted
to keep in any climate.  Take notice that all our corks are branded with our
Trade Mark.
 
           Budweiser Lager Bier
           gebraut aus feinstem
           Saazer Hopfen unh Bester Gerst
     
             fruiher fur
             C.Conrad & Co.
             Anhauser-Busch Brewing, St.Louis.

Typos are mine.  Saazer hops?  Corks?  Any idea how old this might be?

FYI:  Yankee Spirits in Sturbridge, MA has a great selection of international
beer, from Sam Smith Imperial Stout to Belgium lambics to USA micro-beer.  Word
has it that Austin Liquors in Worcester, MA has a similar selection.  Check
it out.

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1991 10:42 PDT
From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #745 (October 22, 1991)

I am starting to feel the obligation to comment on the on-going 
recommendation supporting both the repitching of yeast and 
the subsequent comments about even eliminating sanitation 
practices. Racking onto yeast from a previous batch will 
definitely produce beer. Large scale brewers will reuse yeast 
for many generations. We as homebrewers don't have the 
tools to examine yeast and wash it, if needed, like the large 
scale brewers do. I will guarantee you that you can not find 
yeast an any quantity that does not have some form of 
bacteria present. I have looked through a microscope at yeast 
in large brewery's labs side by side microbiologists and 
always you will see bacteria. The quantity of said bacteria is 
what matters. As homebrewers we can actually have an 
advantage in this area since we can strive to control our 
brewing environment better than the large scale brewers. All of 
this control can be wasted if one continually repitchs yeast.  A 
few generations, OK. But watch out after two or more 
especially if your fermentation temps are above 70 deg, So do 
it! Just be aware that the critters can dominate the 
fermentation. Also off-tastes from large quantities of dead 
yeasts and fermentation byproducts (trube)  can occur , 
especially at higher fermentation temperatures. I would 
suggest to always repitch onto a bigger style beer to reduce 
the chances of off-flavors. Like, repitch your light ale onto an 
amber ale. Then repitch your amber ale onto a porter onto a 
stout onto a barley wine. You get the picture! 
As for the comment on "everything started clean, so it must 
still be clean if I repitch. I don't even need to clean anything", 
HOGWASH. Brewing is and always will be 80% cleaning and 
20% brewing. If you want first class brews, clean, clean, clean! 
At least until we get a good strain of Killer yeast. Has anyone 
heard anything about the progress on this experimental yeast 
strain?


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 11:49 MTS
From: Chuck Coronella <CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU>
Subject: Grapes in beer?

Just a simple question:

       Has anyone ever made a beer with grapes as an ingredient?

I've had some luck making cherry beer, and I've sure read in this forum of 
many other fruit beers, but I've never heard of a grape beer.  I know that
grapes are usually added to wines, but why not beer?  Are grapes possibly
too astringent for beer? 

A friend has offered me any amount of Concorde grapes, so I'm curious.  Any 
recipes are welcome, particularly with notes on methods of adding the 
grapes.

Thanks,
Chuck         coronellrjds at che.utah.edu

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 12:00:32 CDT
From: ssi!mtd at uunet.UU.NET (Mike Daly)
Subject: Groat(s)

I did some checking with a local numismatic expert and have the following info
on the groat as coin (as opposed to groat as grain).

Groat: Edward I (1272-1307) First coined in 1279/80

28 mm diameter, 5.8 grams which implies a thickness of .9 mm
Later, the mass was reduced to 4.8 grams which is a thickness of .75 mm
The coin was made from silver.  

Neither the new nor the old version was very thick.

	Mike

Return to table of contents


Date: 22 Oct 91 15:20:00
From: Bob Hettmansperger <Bob_Hettmansperger at klondike.bellcore.com>
Subject: Zip City and NJ Brewpubs

Subject:  Zip City and NJ Brewpubs

1) To anyone who is interested, the Zip City Brewery is not yet open in 
Manhattan  (I think I remember someone mentioning it was supposed to open in 
August).  I stopped by on Sunday to find the place papered up and under 
construction (we peeked inside and it looks like they've got a ways to go).

A) I understand that brewpubs are currently illegal in New Jersey (as is 
homebrewing apparently).  Is there any effort currently underway to make them
legal?  Anyone know who to write to?  Anyone have any information on micros?
I know that ther is one in Vernon, but that's all I know about.  Are micro
licences hard to come by?

 -Bob




Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 15:25:43 EDT
From: hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu
Subject: Re: Father Barleywine's yeast reuse trick


Chris S. sez:

>On the sanitation issue itself -- not the idea of iconoclasm -- it makes
>sense that if the wort is boiled, it's clean; the yeast-cake carboy must be
>too, and if you keg in a just-emptied keg, it too is clean (besides, at
>this point the alcohol should help prevent infections)

What makes you think the yeast sediment is clean? This is a great place for
bacterial growth. Dead & decaying yeast also provide food for bacteria. Why do
you think commercial breweries spend time washing their yeast??

I recall reading through a collection of research papers on Brewing Yeast I
found in RPIs library. Munton & Fison had a paper that was about certain
strains of yeast that help to pull bacteria out of the beer. These yeast had
the characteristic that they were attractive to the bacteria, basically rather
than having to move about the yeast solution themselves to feed, the bacteria
would hitch a ride. When the yeast flocculated the bacteria went with them.
This had the desirable result of reducing bacterial concentration in the
finished product, at the expense of increasing it in the yeast sediment. All
yeasts do this to some extent, M&F was actually seeking strains with a
strong behavior to help in the reduction of bacteria in the finished beer,
and thus reduce the risk of beer spoilage. This behavior is why big brewers
who re-use their yeast employ acid washes to try to reduce the presence of 
mutated yeasts and bacteria. 

On the consideration of kegs and kegging equipment it is also foolish to assume
a just emptied keg is clean wrt bacteria. Nonsense. Why do you think most
restaurants clean their tap lines regularly?? They do this because bacteria can
and does grow in tap lines, and also kegs. 

While I don't see anything amiss to re-pitching onto the yeast sediment (cake
as others have called it) for a moderate number of times, as this essentially
approximates the same behavior of collecting and re-using yeast sediment from
one batch to the next I would advocate moderate usage of this technique and
periodic changing of the yeast. To say that this must work since it was done 
for hundreds of years ignores the fact that quality control, and the causal 
relationship of the effects of yeast metabolism and bacteria upon spoilage 
(the universally hailed work of one Loius Pasteur) mean nothing. Obviously 
spoilage WAS a problem or there would have been neither a call for, nor support 
for Pasteur's work. 

So I say to those who would begin to employ these techniques and cast off
the lessons of the last 100 years of microbiology that they take a step
backwards in casting the quality of their beers to the whims of nature and
bacteria. Yes perhaps you've had no problems to date, but that does not
guarantee future results, rather it increases the chance of exposure to the
same pitfalls of bacterial damage to ones beer that brewers for centuries
before Pasteur were subject to. The techniques to reduce the risk of bacterial
contamination are hardly complex nor excessively costly, yet the reduction of
risk of spoilage by bacterial contamination justifies their use as surely today
as 130 years ago when Pasteur discovered these causal relationships.

I step down from my soapbox now.

JaH

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 15:20:26 EDT
From: virtech!gjp at uunet.UU.NET (Greg J. Pryzby)
Subject: List of Microbrewies and Brewpubs

I have taken the time to key the list of Microbreweries and Brewpubs
for every state and province. The source is Institute for Brewing Studies.
The list is dated March 1, 1991.

If anyone has more current info (new places, closing, etc) please let me
know. 

I would like to put this somewhere so interested parties could access it.
Until someone tells me how to do that (hint, hint) I will e-mail copies
to interested parties. If you only want the data for a specific state,
let me know.

- -- 
Greg Pryzby  uunet!virtech!gjp
Virtual Technologies, Inc.
Herbivores ate well cause their food didn't never run. -- Jonathan Fishman

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 15:53:36 BST
From: cc at ee.edinburgh.ac.uk
Subject: Hop Tea

Someone recently mentioned a recipe for Hop Tea - I think it involved
malt and hops.  Does anyone have details on this, or indeed any other
recipes (other than beer) using hops?

Regards,

Colin Carruthers.  cc at ee.ed.ac.uk.   Tel +44 31 668 1550.

Return to table of contents


Date: 22 Oct 91  18:29 EST
From: doug at metabolism.bitstream.com
Subject: Cranberry Ale

          Hello:

          This is my first posting to the board so if this is ancient
          material, you have my apologies.  Secondly let me say in
          advance that I've learned a lot so far and would appreciate
          any responses.

          1.   Working all day makes it difficult, but not impossible,
          to brew during the week.  I have, on a few occasions,
          however had to let the wort sit covered over night before
          the boil.  I am assuming that nothing nasty that could harm
          the ale could survive the boil... Am I missing the boat
          here?

          2.   Last fall I made a Wheat/Cranberry ale, loosely based
          on the recipe used by Sam Adams:

          5#   wheat
          6#   2 row
          3.3# BME Weise beer kit
          6    12 oz. bags of whole cranberries (crushed)
          7    AAU's Tett. Hops
          41 oz Pure Vermont Maple Syrup
          DME Ale yeast

          Primed with 1 cup maple syrup

          I wanted to make this again this year but could use a little
          advice in altering the recipe.  First the ale was very very
          hazy. Is this a function of the wheat or perhaps pectin
          in the berries?  Seconldy the ales were very volcanic when
          opened.  Is this a due to the  wheat  as well, or
          perhaps too much maple syrup...  By the way S. Adams was
          much better.

          Thanks in advance.

          doug at Bitstream.com

          go sox


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 21:43:12 -0400
From: patterso at gmuvax2.gmu.edu (Pat Patterson)
Subject: Seeking Variations to Rocky Raccoon

After making beers of many descriptions for the 
last ten years or so, I decided to make a beer 
that uses honey as a primary ingredient.  Since 
the idea has never appealed to me, I used a 
recipe.  I used Papazian's recipe,  "Rocky 
Raccoon's Crystal Honey Lager".

This beer is remarkable.   It is just incredibly 
good.  I would appreciate seeing your favorite 
variations specifically to this recipe.


Please send them to me, or post them to the
digest.  Thanks!

Return to table of contents


Date:    Tue, 22 Oct 1991 23:04:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: MEHTA01 at UTSW.SWMED.UTEXAS.EDU
Subject: adding egg white: to clarify

Hi.
i tried to use egg white (albumin) to clarify my brew three or four batches
ago, when (for some forgotten reason) the secondary fermentation was too cloudy
i took 2 cups of wort from the fermenter and boiled it, adding egg white as if
making egg drop soup, with a lot of stirring. After cooling rapidly, i tossed the
whole soup (without a taste test :-) ) into the secondary. After two days, the
beer was clear!! i haven't tried it again, as i haven't needed to.

This method was suggested by a Bulgarian friend who says that this is fairly
common in his country in home wine making, which it seems, is a fairly
common practise in Sofia. Their apt. complex has a basement converted into a
cooperative wine crushing setup... !!

Tiny bubbles.... 

Shreefal Mehta

mehta1 at utsw.swmed.utexas.edu
     ^mehta01

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 22 Oct 91 22:10:41 PDT
From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan Gros)


Here's my latest batch.  my third, and first partial mash.

Alcatraz Wheat Beer

1 lb Barley malt
2 lb Wheat malt
3 lb dried wheat extract
1 lb dried malt extract
2.5 oz Mt. Hood hps
  Wyeast Wheat beer yeast

OG:  57    FG:  12

I mashed the three pounds of malt a la Miller, and had no problems.
I boiled for one hour, adding 1.5 oz hops at the start, 0.5 oz at
30 min, and 0.5 oz at 5 min.  Strained into a bucked of ice, but
still had to wait several hours for it to cool (shoulda used the
bathtub).
I made a starter for the yeast a couple days before (liquid yeast,
another first).  added it and the wort to the carboy and waited.
The krausen didn't seem as big as previous batches with Red Star.

I primed half the batch(5 gal) with 1/3 cup corn sugar and the
other half with 1/2 cup clover honey.  After two weeks, the beer
was great.  the beer primed with honey, however, was way too
carbonated.  All you can taste is bubbles.             

In direct taste tests, this beer has more body than WheatHook, 
and is slightly sweeter.  Compared to EKU, the beer is similar,
but EKU Wiezen is slightly sweeter.

If anyone wants to add this to Cat's Meow vol II, feel free.
Thank you to all who helped me, especially Martin Lodahl.

                                 - Bryan



Return to table of contents


Date: Wed, 23 Oct 91 00:01:54 MDT
From: dworkin at habitrail.Solbourne.COM (Dieter Muller)
Subject: Mead at brewpubs

Last Friday, I had a very pleasant surprise.  My group decided to have
an off-site meeting at the Wyncoop brewpub in Denver.  While they were
scrambling around trying to find a table for the lot of us, I took a
look at the list of seasonals that were currently available.  Lo and
behold, they had an alfalfa mead!  I had to have some, of course.
Although not quite the style I like (I prefer still meads), it was
still quite good.

So, my question is, how many times have you (that's the collective
you, kind of like the royal We) seen mead at a brewpub?  Was it a
regular feature?

	Dworkin
Please don't get us wrong, man,
this is just a song, man, no matter what we say -- FC
dworkin at solbourne.com                      Flamer's Hotline: (303) 678-4624

Return to table of contents



End of HOMEBREW Digest #746, 10/23/91
*************************************
-------

---