HOMEBREW Digest #765 Thu 21 November 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  pasteurization (commercial), Coors (Dick Dunn)
  Make a lauter tun ("William F. Pemberton")
  ORGANIC (Jack Schmidling)
  Boots bitter kits (Sgt John S. Bergmann)
  Test (Peter Glen Berger)
  Re: Help with Liquid Yeast (John DeCarlo)
  Green glass and thanks (gkushmer)
  sanitizing with bleach ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Re: Chimay yeast (jeff gale 283-4010)
  RedHook Ale Brewery - A Listing (Ron Ezetta)
  Bitchez Brew Stout (Peter Glen Berger)
  STUFF (Jack Schmidling)
  making beer more bitter at bottling. (Jay Hersh)
  Gingered Ale (Peter Glen Berger)
  Sick of plugs (and not hop plugs) (Jay Hersh)
  Cardboard & Judging (Jay Hersh)
  Stress Testing Beer (Bob Jones)
  strong ales (518) 385-1170 - 8*235-1170" <CARONS at TBOSCH.dnet.ge.com>
  Re: Homebrew Digest #764 (November 20, 1991) (ALTENBACH)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1991 15:24 PDT From: ALTENBACH at NSSPA.llnl.gov Subject: REQUEST FOR HBD HBD GURU, PLEASE INCLUDE ME IN THE DISTRIBUTION FOR THE HOMEBREW DIGEST. MY ADDRESS IS ADDVAX::IN%"ALTENBACH2 at LLNL.GOV". THANKS. YOURS BREWLY, TOM ALTENBACH. Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Nov 91 17:01:22 MST (Tue) From: rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: pasteurization (commercial), Coors MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS at SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA> comments on pasteurization: > ...I'm not sure at what > point in production a large brewery like Coors would pasteurize their beer but > homebrewers who are interested in trying it (god knows why) can do it after > bottling... Used to be there were two ways of pasteurizing in a commercial brewery: "tunnel" - after bottling, bottles go through a heated tunnel. This is obviously hard on the beer, since you have to heat the bottle long enough to get the entire contents up to temp. You can neither heat nor cool too quickly or you'll break the bottle. "flash" - beer is passed through a heated section of tubing on its way into the bottle. Heating/cooling happens much faster. As I understood the process, it was a little trickier--and obviously the bottling line has to be clean. Used to be that almost all large-scale commercial brewers pasteurized their beer, and most used the tunnel method. I don't know how much it's changed with the ultra-fine filtering that's now practical, but I think it would be interesting if anyone knows. As for the bumper sticker: > > _______________________________________________ > > | UP YOORS COORS! | > > | Boycott Coors Non-Pasteurized Beer | > > ----------------------------------------------- Coors was one brewer which did not pasteurize even "back then". This is *one* reason they kept such tight control on distribution/sales of their beer...regardless of whether you like their beer, at least they understood that it was a perishable food. They tried to ensure that it didn't travel too far and stayed cold. (Obviously, with beer as light as Coors, *any* off-taste is a serious problem.) OK, now, the rest of this is just for information. I take no position on the politics; I don't want to talk about the politics here because the topic is beer...but if you want to make sense of the bumper sticker and the matter of pasteurization, here goes: There are various Coors businesses held by various members of the Coors family. As a rule they have been active in politics and quite conservative. There is a long-standing feud between the brewery management and organized labor--e.g., labor accuses management of union-busting or discriminatory practices; management accuses labor of featherbedding. After one particularly bitter dispute some years ago, a campaign began on the labor side (not to say that the unions approved it _per_se_) to convince people that Coors was somehow unhealthy or potentially dangerous because, unlike most other beers, it wasn't pasteurized. It was not because of any particular incident related to unpasteurized beer; it was just a means of manipulating public opinion. I don't think it had much effect, and in fact I'm surprised to see such a sticker still around these days (with more beers not being pasteurized). FWIW. Dick Dunn rcd at raven.eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado ...Simpler is better. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed Nov 20 01:24:16 1991 From: "William F. Pemberton" <wfp5p at euclid.acc.Virginia.EDU> Subject: Make a lauter tun I've got a keg (one of the 15.5 gallon ones) that I plan on making into a lauter tun. I'm pretty sure I know HOW I want to make it. So, get to the point you say. Well here is my question: I know this thing will be fine for batches on the order of 10 gallons, but will it be too small for 5 gallon batches? I don't think I will want to make a double batch EVERY time. Thanks! Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 91 22:54 CST From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: ORGANIC To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling Subject: ORGANIC MALT Good news for the health food nuts. My research into nitrosamines in beer has ended by finding a source of malt that not only contains the absolute minimum levels of nitrosamines but is also available in an organically grown version. BACKGROUND: Nitrosamines (a dangerous carcinogen) are produced in malt by the chemical reaction between combustion by-products and precursers generated by germination. Nitrosamines can be reduced in two ways. The first and most expensive is to use indirect kilning where in the grain is heated through heat exchangers to avoid contact with flame products. The second method is "sulphuring" wherein elemental sulphur is sprayed on the grain before and during kilning. I have no idea what the chemistry is but it reduces the nitrosamine production significantly... by "coincidence", just enough to get directly kilned malt just under the 10 PPB FDA limit. The most effective process is to do both procedures. This typically results in undetectable levels (less than 1PPB) of nitrosamines. The major producer of malt in this country is Bries and its affiliates and from what little I could extract in telephone conversations with the president, all their malt, except crystal malt is direct/sulphur. Nitrosamine production is maximal in malt that is kilned with high moisture content such as crystal malt. That is why it must be indirectly kilned and sulphured just to meet the FDA max. Minnesota Malting, makes malt using any of all of the above in addition to supplying organically grown grain, if desired. What they call "organic malt" is indirect without sulphur because there customer doesn't want any chemicals added but it is still organically grown. They will sell 25 lbs bags, ship UPS and the price is .55 per lb plus shipping. I just received a bag of two row today and for what it is worth, the 25 lb bag weighs 32 lbs. It seems to meet all the criteria for good malt according to Noonan. I will give it a try in a couple of days. Just specify 2 row or 6 row, indirect. You will have to check on the price of the organically grown. I am not sure if it is the same. The contact is: Bob Jensen Minnesota Malting 918 N 7th St Cannon Falls, MN 55009 (507) 263 3911 js Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 91 07:36:52 GMT From: Sgt John S. Bergmann <iceberg at sctc.af.mil> Subject: Boots bitter kits Howdy, One of my co-workers just returned from England and brought me two cans of Boots Bitter concentrated wort. I've never heard any reviews, comments, flames, praises, etc. on this brand, so I was wondering if anyone has tried it. It sez on the can it uses 'hop extract'. Should I add some hops to the boil??? The instructions also say to use 2lbs sugar, I think I'm gonna use a couple #'s of honey instead. Good Idea or Bad Medicine?? It also comes with a little foil pouch of dry 'genuine Brewers yeast'. Any ideas? should I just trash it and use wyeast, or can this be used w/ a starter? Any responses would be greatly appreciated. BTW, has anyone developed any recipe databases for DOS? I saw some mentions of hypercard stacks for this purpose but nada on IBMs. Let me know if there is any interest. Tango, Johnny Bergmann, USAFE net dude. IREPEATMYSELFWHENUNDERSTRESSIREPEATMYSELFWHENUNDERSTRESS IREPEATMYSELFWHENUNDERSTRESSIREPEATMYSELFWHENUNDERSTRESS IREPEATMYSELFWHENUNDERSTRESSIREPEATMYSELFWHENUNDERSTRESS - Whew. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1991 08:07:51 -0500 (EST) From: Peter Glen Berger <pb1p+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Test Test, please ignore. Sorry. Return to table of contents
Date: Wednesday, 20 Nov 1991 09:14:38 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Re: Help with Liquid Yeast >From: Kevin Menice <kxm at tiger1.Prime.COM> >I put about 1/2 pound of liquid extract into about a quart of >water (probably way too much extract) and boiled it for about 15 >minutes then let it cool. >It has been about a week and not much has happened. There seems >to be a tiny amount of C02 percolating from the fermentation >locks but barely. This reminds me. I know the Wyeast package recommends using a 1.020 SG starter (less than half a typical wort SG). Is there in fact a likelihood that Kevin killed his yeast (or shocked or whatever) by using much more extract than called for? Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 91 9:09:05 EST From: gkushmer at Jade.Tufts.EDU Subject: Green glass and thanks Looks like I confused some people (oops): I mentioned that the carboy had a greenish tinge only as a passing reference. There probably was a layer of film from some food coloring that dissolved and left the carboy's normal color - clear with a greenish tinge. The thing is old and so I'm not worried about the color. Thanks everyone for the advice on chemical agents to get rid of the rust spot. I'll get that soon. - --gk Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 91 10:05:13 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: sanitizing with bleach Arthur Delano writes in HBD#764 > A brief soaking (under 15 minutes) will not cloud the tubes, but I don't feel that > they're sanitized sufficiently that way. Actually, 15 minutes is much longer than you need, assuming there are no scratches or other places for the nasties to hide. I have been told, by someone who should know, that a very weak bleach solution (10-20ppm, about a "capful" in 5 gallons) will kill almost all the bacteria in 10 seconds. A nice advantage of using such a dilute concentration is that you don't have to rinse afterwards (especially nice, if you suspect the cleanliness of your water source). =Spencer W. Thomas HSITN, U of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109 spencer.thomas at med.umich.edu 313-747-2778 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 91 10:26:39 CST From: jeff gale 283-4010 <gale at sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov> Subject: Re: Chimay yeast To Kenneth Munno: I tried the same trick, but with Chimay Red. I used two bottles also dated 10/90. The starter consisted of 1/2 cup of DME and 2 cups water. It took about a week at 70F for any activity to appear. The Abbey Ale that I brewed with this yeast is probably one of the finest beers I've made to date. It is an all-grain recipe which I'll post if anybody is interested. To all HBD: Is it normal to take this long when culturing yeast from a bottle of commercial beer? I believe that the yeast used by Chimay actually consists of five different strains (kinds?). If I re-pitched this yeast several times wouldn't one of the more dominant strains take over? Waiting for Enlightenment, Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 91 08:41:36 PST From: Ron Ezetta <rone at badblues.wr.tek.com> Subject: RedHook Ale Brewery - A Listing Here's a little ditty I picked up on a recent tour of RedHook Ale Brewery in Seattle. Given RedHook's popularity I thought it might be of interest to digest readers. NOTE: This information is distributed free with no copyrights (with the exceptions of logos which are trade marked) by the RedHook Brewery. _______________________________________________________________________________ (206) |Malted | | | | | Avail- 548-8000 |Barley | Hops | Yeast |Avail- | O.G | ablity |Varieties | | |ability | | Area ___________|_____________|___________|____________|________|______|____________ Red Hook |2-row Klages,|Willamette,|Top Ferment |Year | | All ESB |Caramel 60 |Tettnang |English |Round |1.054 | Markets ___________|____________ |___________|____________|________|______|____________ Ballard |2-row Klages,|Erioca, |Top Ferment |Year | | All Bitter |Caramel 40 |Willamette,|English |Round |1.0445| Markets | |Cascade | | | | ___________|____________ |___________|____________|________|______|____________ Blackhook |2-row Klages,|Willamette,| | | | Porter |Caramel 40, |Erocia, |Top Ferment |Year |1.0470| Pacific |Black Malt, |Cascade |English |Round | |Northwest |Roasted | | | | | |Barley | | | | | ___________|_____________|___________|____________|________|______|____________ Red Hook |2-row Klages,|Clusters, | | | | Ale |Caramel 40, |Willamette,| |One | | Washington |Black Malt |Eroica, |Top Ferment |small | | State | |Cascade, |Belgian |batch |1.0500| | |Yakima | |each | | | |Hallertau | |Fall | | ___________|_____________|___________|____________|________|______|____________ Winterhook |Custom-kilned|B.C Kents, | | | | Christmas |Christmas 2- |Yakima |Top Ferment | | | Washington Ale |row Carastan |Hallertau, |English |Fall |1.0575| State |from Bairds |Yakima | |Winter | | |of England |Clusters | | | | ___________|_____________|___________|____________|________|______|___________ Wheat Hook |2-row Klages,|Tettnang, | | | | Wheaten Ale|Malted |Herbrucker,|Top Ferment |Spring |1.0340| Pacific |English Wheat|German |English |Summer | |Northwest | |Hallertau | | | | ___________|_____________|___________|____________|________|______|___________ Flavor Characteristics: - Red Hook ESB: Rich roundtoasted make with pleasant finishing sweetness - Ballard Bitter: Aggressively hopped dry crisp finish - Blackhook: Highly roasted chocolate malt character balanced by lively hopping - Red Hook Ale: Nutty and spicy, long full malt flavors - Winterhook: Complex grainy flavors with rich mouth feel - Wheathook: Delicate mild hopping. Distinct wheat in finish - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- -Ron Ezetta- rone at badblues.wr.tek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1991 13:09:31 -0500 (EST) From: Peter Glen Berger <pb1p+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Bitchez Brew Stout This came out fantastic. I highly recommend brewing it. 6 lbs. dark dry malt (M&F) 2 lbs. amber dry malt (M&F) .75 lb. roasted barley .5 lb. black patent 1 lb. crystal malt 2 CUPS (not lbs) Quaker Oats 2 oz. fresh Bullions hops (boil) .6 oz. fresh Willammette hops (finish) Whitbread Ale Yeast Add hops in last 5-6 minutes of the boil. All specialty grains should be cracked, first. Soak the specialty grains & Quaker Oats in cold water for 15 minutes, bring to a boil, remove grains with strainer as wort comes to a boil. This has an awful hot-break, and needs to be nursed for about 5 minutes before you can leave it safely. I went light on the Oatmeal because the oils in it tend to be detrimental towards head retention. Comments: This beer improves substantially after about 2 weeks in the bottle, as hop aroma subsides and the large amount of roasted barley assumes it's place in the forefront. It's my favorite beer to date, but if I were going to brew it again I might cut back on the roasted barley by about .25 lb, and lessen the boiling hops (either to 1 oz. of Bullions, or 1.5 of some lower alpha hop). Whitbread ale yeast was used because of the low attenuation rate: this stout is NOT sweet, but has lots and lots of body. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pete Berger || ARPA: peterb at cs.cmu.edu Professional Student || Pete.Berger at andrew.cmu.edu Univ. Pittsburgh School of Law || BITNET: R746PB1P at CMCCVB Attend this school, not CMU || UUCP: ...!harvard!andrew.cmu.edu!pb1p - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Goldilocks is about property rights. Little Red Riding Hood is a tale of seduction, rape, murder, and cannibalism." -Bernard J. Hibbits - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 91 10:12 CST From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: STUFF To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov> J. Schmidling: >> mine sits on top of a 2500 deg , forced air melting furnace and brings 7 gals to boil in about 15 min. you can't possibly hurt a steel kettle on anything even that hot > I don't know what you used to determine you temperature but it would not be possible to boil water or wort in a controlled manner at 2500 degrees F. The problem is (and its just a small problem) that carbon steel melts at 2500 degrees F. Stainless steel and aluminum have much lower melting temps. I suggest that you try using a tantalum kettle it won't melt till 5100 degrees F. And just so you know water boils at 212 and is a gas after that. I will try to be gentle responding to this utter rubbish. I don't want to be accused of being confrontational. 1. I measure the flame temperature with a thermocouple pyrometer. This instrument is to a foundry what a hydrometer is to a brewery. 2. SS contains chromium which has a melting temperature around 3500 F. This puts the melting point of the alloy significantly above that of carbon steel. 3. Aluminum melts around 1200 F. To lump aluminum with SS is misleading at minimum. 4. Precisely because water boils at 212 F and turns into an expanding, cooling gas, one can heat it in kettles without worrying about the kettles melting. This is true, even if the flame temp is far above the melting point of the kettle. Aside from an oxy-acetyline tourch, with its intensley hot and concentrated flame, you can not melt a steel kettle in an ordinary flame, particularly if full of water. A empty steel kettle will sit on my furnace all day and never melt. It will get red hot and eventually oxidize and fall apart but it will never melt. An aluminum kettle would melt into a puddle in a couple of minutes if empty, but boil water all day. js From: Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at UA1VM.UA.EDU> While I am counter-flaming, I would like to point out that most reasonable people would find the following sort of comments far more offensive than anything I have ever said. >Occasionally (once per 10 batches), I run boiling water through just to be anal. Just what does such gutter talk have to do with beer making? And why is it necessary and accepted without anyone else objecting? From: KARL DESCH <KCDESCH at ucs.indiana.edu> >1. This keg appears to be all aluminum. If memory serves me correctly Papazian suggests to avoid using aluminum as a boiling pot. What about SS makes it better than aluminum? It has a much stronger tendancy to leave your brain cells intact. Oops, forgot to turn off flame. Although there is a great deal of debate about the cause and effect of aluminum found in the brains of Alzheimer victims, the implication is far too freightening to even consider using an aluminum kettle for long term boiling. Do yourself a favor and take it to a recycling center and consider the sawing an aerobic exercise. js Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 91 13:32:23 EST From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: making beer more bitter at bottling. Why don't you try liquid hop extract?? Jeff Pzena, owner of the Modern Brewer & a friend of mine was carrying a bottle around at a party he had last week adding it directly to the homebrew. Now there's a hophead!! - JaH - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1991 13:20:54 -0500 (EST) From: Peter Glen Berger <pb1p+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Gingered Ale Brewed, aged 1 month, and sampled. Pure heaven. "Old-Time Jaspers Gingered Ale" A five gallon recipe 9 lbs. Pale dry malt extract (M&F) .75 lbs. crystal malt, cracked 3 lbs. light clover honey 1 oz. Hallertau hops (boil) 1/2 oz. Hallertau hops (finish) 6 oz. fresh ginger, peeled and grated grated peels of 4 oranges 1.5 tsp. cinnamon .5 tsp. nutmeg 1.5 tsp. Irish moss Whitbread Ale yeast SG: 1.071 FG: 1.019 First, a word about the hops: Yes, Hallertau is a lager hop. However, the ginger and orange peel both go a long way towards both bittering and flavoring the beer. Using a more assertive ale hop would a) add too much bitterness and b) overpower the other flavors that I want to come through. Besides, Hallertau has that spicy touch that makes this perfect for a holiday brew. This brew is just barely sweet, at the threshold of perception. A strong, heavy body follows, the ginger and orange blending together and taking you through from the middrink to the aftertaste. Th finish is incredibly long, both the high alcohol content and the ginger-orange aftertaste lingering for a full 8 or 9 seconds after swallowing. Using a more attenuative yeast would make this drier and more alcoholic, but I like the balance given by the Whitbread. Primary fermentation took about 6 days, 6 days in secondary, aged 1 month at tasting. This beer is copper colored; I'm thinking of making a version with a little lactose instead of the crystal malt to try to retain the sweetness while having a paler color. Irish moss is a necessity with this brew. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pete Berger || ARPA: peterb at cs.cmu.edu Professional Student || Pete.Berger at andrew.cmu.edu Univ. Pittsburgh School of Law || BITNET: R746PB1P at CMCCVB Attend this school, not CMU || UUCP: ...!harvard!andrew.cmu.edu!pb1p - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Goldilocks is about property rights. Little Red Riding Hood is a tale of seduction, rape, murder, and cannibalism." -Bernard J. Hibbits - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 91 15:14:22 EST From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: Sick of plugs (and not hop plugs) > From: Mike Sharp <msharp at cs.ulowell.edu> > > >How does one place a false bottom inside a 15gal keg? I've been trying to > figure this one out for a while. > > Try this..... From "EASY MASH".... > > Additional advice deleted... later on > From: zentner at ecn.purdue.edu (Michael Zentner) > > >Wow! Who is this Marilyn and what does it take to get her to one of > our tastings! > > She plays the leading roll in "BREW IT AT HOME" and is a real glutton for PR. > You could tell her it is an autograph party and that someone from the Academy > Awards board will be there. etc... several other unsubtle plugs for the now infamous CR02 product... God Jack must your every response contain a plug. WE'RE SICK OF IT ALREADY!!! GIVE IT F***** REST! Do you expect people to take your advice/comments seriosuly when every one is prefaced by these completely unsubtle plugs for your commercial products. Do you think you're cute or clever. You're not, you're just progressively more annoying. There was absolutely no need to insert this plug in your responses and it shows a COMPLETE LACK OF RESPECT for the members of this forum (as opposed to Kinney B's behavior who has many more products he could plug than you do, but is always respectful of this forum). I had begun to think that perhaps you were becoming a little more considerate in your postings of the readers of the HBD. I can see now I was mistaken. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE I am asking politely and on behalf of all the brewers in this forum. If you have any respect for other brewers leave the plugs out. If you choose to participate in this forum then stick to the issues and save the plugs for private e-mail. - Jay Hersh - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 91 15:27:45 EST From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: Cardboard & Judging Bob, >Another problem is >the transport of the glasses from the back room to the judges. They are >very often carried in a six pack carrier with the entry. The glasses are >sometimes placed upside down in the carrier, where they can pick up this >cardboard nose. Sounds like another good argument in favor of using pitchers (one of my favorite judge related crusades :-)... Competitions I have worked the beers were served at pitchers, and the glasses collected and rinsed separately. Once they were removed from the boxes and cleaned the never touched cardboard during the judging. Sounds like some procedural changes there might help a lot. Also we often just rinse our own from water in pitchers right at the table, saves the stewards some work. >So the environment looses out on this one. Umm, I'll fight you on this one. At least you can use HDPE 1 or 2 glasses and collect them and give them over to recylcing... Russ sez: >The glasses were washed with generic (cheap) automatic dishwashing detergent, >after their previous use and then rinsed with hot water just prior to their use >in the competition mentioned. AAAck. I never use soap on my beer glasses. I use B-brite. There are other cleaning agents that many/most bars use. Soap is much more difficult to rinse clean without leaving a film. The cleaners bars use (sorry don't know any brand names) are chosen because they do rinse clean. B-Brite also does, which is why I use it on my glassware. Perhaps this is a little anal, but I have found soap doesn't rinse nearly as well. I'd suggest changing your cleaning agent. Soap also may not clean away the cardboard aroma. - JaH - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1991 13:00 PDT From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov> Subject: Stress Testing Beer To Larryba on stress testing your beers. This is not a new idea. Many micros test their brewery operations in this manor. They take samples from several different points in the brewery, cap the bottles and let them sit at room temp. By observing the turbidity of the sample, one can correlate cleanliness. I think 4 days plus indicates adequate cleanliness. George Fix has related some procedures for the practical homebrewer in a paper he presented a few years ago at an AHA conference. He also discusses other easy steps to allow one to test their brewing operation with minimal high tech tools. Interested parties can contact the AHA for conference transcripts. I like the one comment George made once. "If you want to give your beers the ultimate stress test, just ship them via UPS anywhere !". Low level bacterial contamination has been the death of several microbrewers and a continuing problem for others. These low levels of contamination really starts showing up when the brewers start bottling their beers. The average liquor/grocery store is as good a tester as UPS. On a more humorous note, I recently toured the AB facility in Fairfield,Ca. The tour didn't go through the brew house. They said they were "remodeling". I have always contended that the American brewing industry is determined to convince the average American beer drinker that the more beer tastes like water the better it is. This way they can just bottle water and like magic they have mega profit. Well I think they have succeeded. I speculate that they really DIDN'T have a brew house at AB. They are just bottling carbonated water. You can do your own testing to verify this hypothesis. Just blind taste their beer next to a cold glass of carbonated water. I rest may case. Bob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 91 16:28:39 EST From: "Sean J. Caron - GE I&PS Generator Engineering Support - (518) 385-1170 - 8*235-1170" <CARONS at TBOSCH.dnet.ge.com> Subject: strong ales morning, folks! i have a question about the term/style called "strong ale". could someone please pass along a definition and/or the names of some examples? or maybe even a favorite recipe ;-) neil mager asks about well water with dissolved oxygen - nope, its not the tank. all of my neighbors with deep wells (mine is ~530') have the same condition. i am, however, no longer convinced that it is really oxygen. thanks! sean Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1991 15:54 PDT From: ALTENBACH at NSSPA.llnl.gov Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #764 (November 20, 1991) RE: CARDBOARD IN COMPETITION GLASSES A suggestion for Russ Wigglesworth: Trash the cardboard boxes and invest in some plastic crates, like the ones commonly used by restuarants and cafeterias to hold their glassware. They might be available through a restuarant supply outlet, or perhaps your friendly local brewpub manager can help you locate the crates. TOM ALTENBACH Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #765, 11/21/91 ************************************* -------
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