HOMEBREW Digest #798 Thu 09 January 1992

Digest #797 Digest #799

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Att brygga i Sverige (Brewing in Sweden) (Kurt Swanson)
  New (in several ways) WYeast!!! (Kurt Swanson)
  Cleaning copper, sparging (BAUGHMANKR)
  Striketemp,Camra, Klages, Diacytl (Bill Crick)
  Specific heat of Grain (hplabs!uunet!bnr-vpa!golka)
  Mead, Nutrients, Germany (Sgt John "iceberg" Bergmann)
  Boiling water (wbt)
  RE: Homebrew Digest #797 (January 08, 1992) (DAVID)
  Re: Boiling tap water (Desmond Mottram)
  Re: boil-over preventer (man)
  sour mash (Aaron Birenboim)
  RE: Grain analysis from UC Davis class ("Don Sharp, DIM&T/AD, MSO2-2/A1, DTN 223-8547  08-Jan-1992 1027")
  Grain analysis from UC Davis class (Russ Pencin)
  Grant (homer)
  RE: Boiling Tap Water (ASMITH)
  RE: Boiling Tap Water (Albert Smith on Wed, Jan 8, 1992 10:16 AM)
  pittsburgh (Houck)
  boilin' and blowin' (BAUGHMANKR)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #796 (January 07, 1992) (Robert Millette)
  Re: Explosion at Oz Brewery (korz)
  Re: boil-over preventer  (Dave Coombs)
  Re: Metal brew (korz)
  Samuel Smith's CORRECTION (korz)
  boil-over preventer (response to Dave Ballard) (Eric Mintz)
  Re: boil-over preventer (Bob Muller)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #797 (January 08, 1992) (Janet Christian)
  Blowoff and Bombs (Norm Pyle)
  Applause for Travels with Barley (Chuck Coronella)
  help REALLY getting started (Jeanne Sova ASQNC-TAB-IS 5320)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #797 (Ja ("Jeff DeMello")
  Re: Homebrew Digest #797 (January 08, 1992) (Mike Sharp)
  Moribund Metheglin (JW Smith)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 7 Jan 92 19:31:40 CST From: kswanson at casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Swanson) Subject: Att brygga i Sverige (Brewing in Sweden) >From what I have gathered from soc.culture.nordic (in the evil Usenet world), brewing is completely legal in Sweden, and quite popular because of: 1 - Cost - Beer is so heavily taxed (a morality and socialism thing) that one beer in a bar can cost you US$7... 2 - Variety - Beer strength is limited (that morality thing again)... I do not know of supply houses there, but according to Zymurgy, Vol. 14, N0. 5, (Winter 1991), a club does exist. Contact: Svante Ekelin Humleg}rden S-186 96 Vallentuna Sverige ph# (762) 35 515 Note: Vallentuna is a north-suburb of Stockholm, and "}" is a letter that looks like an "a" but has a ring above it. - -- Kurt Swanson, Dept. of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science, Northwestern University. kswanson at nwu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 92 19:38:23 CST From: kswanson at casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Swanson) Subject: New (in several ways) WYeast!!! I went this past saturday to Chicago INdoor Garden Supply, my vote for Chicagoland's best homebrew store, and purchased some yeast. In the WYeast bin they had several new looking packages. I picked up & later purchased the Pilsen lager... The package is still gold foil, but there is no longer any sticker on it, instead information is printed directly on the package on both sides... AS I scrupulously studied the package, I noticed the packing date - Jan 1 1992! Three days old! This thing'll probably explode in my hand when I crack the inner seal this weekend... Also, I notice a couple different Wyeasts I had never seen before, one was champagne yeast, but I can't remember the other... how long have they marketed the champagne? - -- Kurt Swanson, Dept. of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science, Northwestern University. kswanson at nwu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1992 23:59 EDT From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: Cleaning copper, sparging Mike sez: >Back when this came about, I think I was the main advocate of >cleaning. My batch of tubing had a pretty bad case of "grease" >inside, to the point where, when I let water (cold or hot) drain >out of it, the leaving the last few drops to fall on the counter. >Silvery specs appeared to be floating on these water drops, but >this was really small pools of grease/oil. I felt it worth pointing out that this is indeed an extreme case. I'm not sure where Mike bought his copper but the tubing I buy from the local plumbing supply never has anything remotely similar to the stuff Mike describes. >contortions related to cleaning the copper deleted< ..an admiral tale of perseverance, Mike! >It's important to note that when you're done brewing for the night or >day, you're not done until you run lots of hot water through the >chiller to get out any remaining sugars, and then work it around in >a circle to drain it and prevent mold. I usually follow this procedure with a quick siphon of my clorox solution and store dry. The little bit of clorox will help insure sterilization but it's not enough to cause any appreciable corrosion. In fact I used to store my chillers with a clorox solution inside them from one brewing session to the next and the chiller held up fine. When I pull out my chiller for the next session, I boil up about a gallon of water and siphon it through the dry chiller to insure sterilization prior to taking the wort through it. Jim asks: >Why not just drain the sweet liquid from the mashing vessel, through a >couple layers of chessecloth, and into the boiler..... once. No re-cycling! >Then run the necessary amount of 170-180 F water through the same grain bed >and cheesecloth, (again just once), to make 6 gals.... and be done with it. >It'd take minutes, rather then 1-2 hours. I'm all with you on this one, Jim. I usually re-cycle once just to set the grain bed. Then I drain the lauter tun completely to get the thickest runnings out of there. After that, I run a normal sparge until 6 gallons are collected. 45 minutes. No reason to take 1-2 hours. Cheers! Kinney Baughman | Beer is my business and baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu | I'm late for work. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1992 11:29:30 -0500 From: hpfcmr.fc.hp.com!hplabs!uunet!bnr-vpa!bnr-rsc!crick (Bill Crick) Subject: Striketemp,Camra, Klages, Diacytl Someone posted calculations for the amount of water to get to a specific strike temperature. YOu forgot to include the specific heat of the malt, and water. Although I forget the exact formula, and values, it is needed if you rare going to do this. A friend and I tried to set up a spread sheet so we could do infusion mashes directly by calculations This included measuring the specific heat of malt in a calorimeter (thermos). Off we went brewing, and although the first step was OK, subsequent steps always required corrections. After several experiments, and careful checking of our caluculations and formulas, we concluded that the specific heat of the malt must change as it is mashed. THis makes sense given the dramatic change in the malt, but still makes us unsure on where the heat goes as the specific heat changes. I'll see if I can dig up our formula (out of the CRC handbook), and the values we measured for specific heat of dry malt. If you are only going to do a single step, it should work OK. Joining CAMRA with Pounds Sterling? Why not join Camra Canada? Then you could pay in Loonies Bronze? I don't know the address, I'll see if I can get it? Also you can write a check in any currency. All you have to do is mark the currency on the cheque. At least I can at my bank. NOTE: they do charge a service charge for clearing a cheque in a foreign currency. What is Klages Malt. I bought a kilo the other day, and can't find any info on what it is? Butterscotch flavor, and Diacytl: YOu can increase diacytl in you beer two ways Low oxygen wort at pitching will tend to cause the yeast to produce more diacytl. Boiling all your water will cause low low oxygen wort. Most yeasts create diacytl as an intermediate fermentation product,and later re-metabolize it, If you strip the yeast out early in the fermentation, by cold shocking it, or adding finings before racking to secondary. you will preserve this diacytl. Although the subsequent fermentations will go a little slower, You won't have problems with carbonation. At least I never have. I have been using these methods to produce buttery english ales ala Samuel Smith for years. Bill Crick Brewius, Ergo Nonum ThermoDynamics! I brew, Therefore I don't need no stinking Thermodynamics! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1992 17:13:22 -0500 From: hpfcmr.fc.hp.com!hplabs!uunet!bnr-vpa!golka%bnr.ca Subject: Specific heat of Grain Here is an example of the spread sheet for calculating infusion step mash water additions. For the first single step mash, the formula is Mnw= (Tf-Ts)(SHg*Mg+HCtun)/(Tnw-Tf)*SHw Where Mnw is mass of water to add kg (1 litre= 1 kg) Tf is desired final temp C Ts is original grain temp C SHg is specific heat of grain joules/kg C Mg is mass of grain kg SHw is specific heat of waterJoules/kg C Tnw is temp of water to be added C HCtun is heat capacity of mash tun (ignore. Preheat tun) NOTE:all are metric SI units. "what is that in real gallons?" 4183.33 Specific heat of water 2130.00 Specific heat of grain -3629.79 Protien Rest Step 3.93 26.67 Enter grain temperature 80.00 F 65.56 Enter Water temperature 150.00 F Enter the desired protien rest temperature 122.00 F 50.00 C Enter the weight of the grain in pounds 11.50 lb 5.22 kg ADD 3.93 L of water to the grain for the protein rest Conversion Process First conversion step Mnw= (Tf-Ts)(SHg*Mg+SHwMow+HCtun)/(Tnw-Tf)*SHw What is the new mash temperature? 122.00 F 50.00 Enter the desired conversion temperature 153.00 F 67.22 Enter the step water temperature 210.00 F 98.89 ADD 4.06 L of water to the grain for the protein rest Second Conversion Step .... and so on..... Kevin Golka, 613-763-3474 ============================================================== The opinions expressed are not necessarliy those of BNR or NT. Please do not send EMAIL to me, as I can not receive it. ============================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 09:46:34 GMT From: Sgt John "iceberg" Bergmann <iceberg at sctc.af.mil> Subject: Mead, Nutrients, Germany Greetings all, Got some questions for ya's. First, I've tried to make a mead. I pretty much followed Papazians new appendix on making mead. My 3 Gallon batch had: 5 kilos Imker honig (trans: 11 lbs beekeeper honey) 48 oz red Raspberries 1/2 tsp Irish Moss Champagne Yeast in starter of 1/2 cup Corn Sugar 1 tsp Yeast Nutrient 1 cup H2O I boiled the honey in 1 gallon H2O, turned off the heat, added the rasp- berries, let steep for about 30 minutes, then dumped all into a plastic primary and brought total volume to 3 gallons. OG was (eek!) 1.142!! So, I pitched the yeast the next morning and let it go. Last night, (5 days later) I racked to a glass secondary w/ an addition couple tsps. of nutrient dissolved in a cup of H2O, grav = 1.080. Now for the problem. This stuff smelled like baby larks bladders boiled in ox bile. I mean it was downright NASTY smellin'. I couldn't bring myself to even attempt tasting it. I asked my wife (who normally doesn't like homebrews) to help describe the smell. Funny part is, she couldn't smell any- thing but a slight raspberry odor. She promptly drank my sample and proclaimed "Yum, Fruit Punch with a kick!!," and left. I was amazed. Has this ever happened to anyone else? Am I having some sort of olefactory hallucination? Second, the yeast nutrient I got is labeled DiAmmonium Phoshate, but w/o any instructions. So how much should I use for, oh, say a mead? Would this have some have any affect on my nasel imagination?? In HBD #796, Jim Grady ask about homebrew distributers in Germany: Yeah Jim, I'm in Germany. I'm sorry to report that I haven't found any distributers, nor have I confirmed the legality of homebrewing. I'll be taking a tour the the BBK (Bavarian Brewery of Kaiserslautern) on 29 Jan, so I may have more info then. I'll be sure to post a review... Auf Wiedersehen, Johnny B. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 8:52:22 EST From: wbt at cbema.att.com Subject: Boiling water Jeff Rickel asked: > I too am curious about the necessity of boiling tap water. Dave Miller > treats it as a must, so as to kill any bacteria, drive off any chlorine > (he claims that even small amounts of chlorine can lead to horrible > phenolic (medicinal) flavors), and to precipitate ions. Yet other > books treat it as optional if they consider it at all. Anybody have > any good evidence that it does or doesn't matter? How about good evidence that it does... to the tune of about 13 gallons of beer and mead? We started brewing about this time last year, and made three decent batches of beer in a couple of months. We never bothered boiling all our water, using cold tap water to top off our extract brews. No problem. As spring set in, we brewed a pale ale. It was very nice when we bottled it, by far our best effort, so we quickly followed it up with another batch and, while we were cooking, a batch of mead. About 2 weeks later, we noticed a slight plastic flavor and smell to our beer, which within a week or two became so strong that the beer was undrinkable. Chlorophenols, we figured. Had to toss about three gallons of that wonderful elixir. Then when it came time to bottle the pale ale and mead we'd just brewed, we found the same stench already developed. Scratch ten more gallons. Our reasoning was that the spring had brought with it a bacteria bloom, and the water treatment plant had countered by upping the chlorine levels. As a result, our beers suddenly contained much more chlorine and, perhaps, some new bacteria; a good recipe for chlorophenols. It's worth noting that our second and third batches, brewed before our first plastic pale ale, never developed this problem even after more than 9 months had passed in the bottle. We now religiously boil our water (we even have it blessed! 8-) and have not had a recurrence of this tragedy. > From: Dave Coombs <coombs at bashful.cup.hp.com> > Subject: Re: cleaning copper tubing > > This is the same sort of copper tubing that's used in plumbing, right? > And we drink the water that travels through it to the faucet. So what > is commonly done when installing copper plumbing to ensure clean > water? To my knowledge, nothing... but then again, there's a lot of difference between what's acceptable for household water and beer. Your water doesn't require sanitized conditions, so little bacteria-harboring pockets of grease wouldn't matter. Grease/oil that may be insoluble in tap water might be more soluble in hot wort. You don't expect a glass of water to maintain a nice head. You don't fuss with water for hours, store it for weeks, then bottle it in individual 12-oz bottles and give it to friends. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Bill Thacker AT&T Network Systems - Columbus cbema!wbt Quality Engineer Network Wireless Systems wbt at cbnews.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1992 8:57:11 -0500 (EST) From: POORE at SCRI1.SCRI.FSU.EDU (DAVID) Subject: RE: Homebrew Digest #797 (January 08, 1992) Please remove me from the digest. David Poore poore at gw.scri.fsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 13:56:24 GMT From: des at swindon.swindon.ingr.com (Desmond Mottram) Subject: Re: Boiling tap water I boil our local tap water because it is FULL of bicarbonate, which buffers mash pH. I get a heaped teaspoonful of scum, sediment and precipitate after a 15 minute boil. The amount of precipitate varies with the length of boil and I have found it is possible to overdo it, resulting in a mash pH which is too low. Now I just boil for 5 minutes and no more. Incidentally, another interesting experiment worth trying is to taste a series samples taken throught the brewing process. Taste a bit of wort every half hour during mash and boil, and then each day for the first week of fermentation. and weekly thereafter. It's instructive and fasinating to discover just how the character of your brew shifts as it passes though its various stages. It shows you just when and in what way the important changes occur; where you are wasting time with an unncecessary wait; when you may be spoiling the flavour by underdoing or overdoing something. Your tastebuds will reveal things no amount of technical apparatus can show. It was a surprise to me, for example, just how much sparging washes out the flavour of the wort (one day I MUST try fermenting a full strength batch, WOW!!!). Rgds, Desmond Mottram Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 09:29 EST From: man at kato.att.com Subject: Re: boil-over preventer In HBD 797, Dave Ballard says: <Hey now all you physicists- I got this thing in my stocking this year <that is supposed to prevent boil-overs (all kinds, not just beer). <It's a glass disk, about 4" in diameter, with about a 1" lip around <it. It kinda looks like big coaster. <I haven't used it yet but my mom put one in a pot of spuds on xmas. It <didn't seem to work too well 'cause there was soon spud foam oozing <all over the stove. <My question is this: why should I expect this to work and if it did <work, what does it do? <iko- <dab I got one of these as a gift a few years ago and posted a question about it back then. Mine didn't claim to prevent boil-overs, only that it would automatically stir the contents. As such, it works on low viscosity liquids like wort, but not heavy sauces. I used it when I made batches on my electric stove and it prevented the wort from being scorched every time. It did not produce enough of a stirring motion to prevent a boilover, but it was useful for overcoming the effects of electric stove hot-spots. Since I started brewing outside with a King Kooker rocket engine, the baffle on the unit seems to prevent hot spots on the kettle and the pyrex ashtray is no longer being used. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 08:25:34 MST From: abirenbo at rigel.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) Subject: sour mash I'd like to share my sour mashing experiences with the list, so others will not repeat my mistakes. I used papazian's method of cooling the mash to 130F, and adding some cracked malt. My first attempt did not sour at all for about 12 hours. At that time, i mucked about in it, and uncovered it. The next morning, it had a white film, and smelled like rotting corn. I covered it with saran wrap, and let it continue. It got really nasty, and rancid. the rotting corn smell made you retch. I dumped it. In retrospect, it might have been fine. I have seen conflicting opinions on this question: ARE THE SOURING BACTERIA AEROBIC? If not, cover the mash, if so, leave it uncovered. BTW: I was using wheat malt from great fermentations, and pale 2-row from Minnesota malting. I think the mash was 2# wheat malt, 5# pale, 1# barley flakes. with the same mash, i tried again. this time i added some acidopholis capsules, and covered. the capsules were crom barley malt culture (great for us lactose sensitive people) obtained at the health food store. This time i covered the mash. After two days the mash pH dropped to about 3.4, and it smelled only slightly rancid. I boiled 90 min. The finished product is sharply acidic, but with a hint of remaining rancid flavor. I think that this Lactobacillus Acidopholis contributes this rancid character which is not driven off in the boil. How will sulpher levels effect the souring? How much sulpher does Minnesota malting use? Not only did the first mash smell sulphery, but the second mash gave me hints of sulpher too. On the second mash, i goofed and charred a bit of malt. This scorching produced not just your usual burning food smell, but definite sulpher overtones. In fact, the sulpher smell was stronger than the burnt food smell. Does all scorched malt produce this smell? (this was the first time i schorched malt) Bob Jones : could you ask Micah Millspaw how much of the mash he soured, and how much he did regular? with that information i can try M. Millspaw's technique outlined in HBD 796. Aaron (I'm gonna emulate berliner weisse even if it kills me) Birenboim P.S. Anybody know where I can get a buttermilk starter culture? Martin Lohdal tasted a nice Berliner Weisse emulation made by pitching buttermilk starter with the yeast. I's sure like to avoid that stinky sour mash! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 10:28:38 EST From: "Don Sharp, DIM&T/AD, MSO2-2/A1, DTN 223-8547 08-Jan-1992 1027" <sharp at rumor.enet.dec.com> Subject: RE: Grain analysis from UC Davis class Russ Pencin posted this in HBD #797, but it seems his tab settings were incompatible with mine. For others who encountered the same problem I'm posting the edited version (<80 columns, 1 tab = 8 spaces starting in column 9) Date: 7 January 1992 11:47:47 am From: pencin at parcplace.com (Russ Pencin) Subject: Grain analysis from UC Davis class Here are some more tid-bits from the Brewing Science class at UC Davis - You can draw your own conclusions - the discussion should be interesting... =========================American/Canadian Malts========================= Malt type Klages Piroline Canadian (2 row) (2-row) (2-row) Moisture(%) 3.9 3.9 3.8 Extract(% dry weight) 80-81 78-79 79-80 Fine/Course extract diff(%) 1.5-2.1 1.5-2.1 1.8-2.1 alpha-Amylase 35-40 33-38 30-40 Diastatic power (degrees) 110-120 100-110 90-120 Total protein(%) 11.5-12.5 11.3-12.3 11.0-12.0 Soluble N/total N (ratio) 39-43 38-42 38-42 Color (Lovibond) 1.45-1.75 1.55-1.85 1.2-1.4 Karl Midwestern Canadian (6-row) Larker (6-row) (6-row) Moisture(%) 4.0 4.1 3.8 Extract(% dry weight) 81.7 77 78-79 Fine/Course extract diff(%) 1.7 1.7 1.3-2.2 alpha-Amylase 33 40 35-45 Diastatic power (degrees) 102 156 120-145 Total protein 10.4 13.3 11.5-12.5 Soluble N/total N (ratio) 45 39 38-42 Color (Lovibond) 1.68 1.74 1.4-1.6 ==========================German/European Malts========================== Malt type Pale Pilsen Vienna Lager Lager Lager Moisture(%) 4.4 4.6 4.5 Extract(% dry weight) 79.1 78.9 79.3 Fine/Course extract diff(%) 1.6 1.8 1.6 alpha-Amylase 44 46 40 Diastatic power (degrees) 289 307 215 Total protein(%) 11.0 11.4 11.0 Conversion time(mins) 10 10 10 Color (Lovibond) 3.4 3.0 7.1 Malt type Dark Diastatic Wheat Lager Malt Malt Moisture(%) 3.8 7.6 5.7 Extract(% dry weight) 77.5 77.3 82.2 Fine/Course extract diff(%) 2.0 1.5 1.5 alpha-Amylase 30.5 64.0 47.0 Diastatic power (degrees) 145 433 317 Total protein 11.5 12.1 13.3 Conversion time(mins) 20 5 15 Color (Lovibond) 17 2.6 4.1 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 08:34 MST From: homer at drutx.att.com Subject: Grant >>...many European Breweries, notably Pilsener Urquell among them, >>use a system where the sweet wort that goes from the mash tun >>into the boiling tank is drained from the mash tun via a number >>of spigots. >This arrangement of spigots is called a "grant". Anchor uses one in their >system. As I understand it the grant serves two purposes: 1 It provides a handy place to grab a sample during run-off to determine clarity. 2 It allows the brewer to balance the flow of wort during run-off. I think if the flow is uneven there is a risk of part of the mash compacting and getting stuck, causing a loss in efficiency. At Boulder Beer I recall that they have a series of pipes, each with a valve and a gauge. A friend of mine peeked behind the grant at Anchor and said that all the taps were connected to the same pipe. Jim Homer att!drutx!homer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1992 10:40:53 EST From: ASMITH at vax.wi.edu Subject: RE: Boiling Tap Water - ---- Microsoft Mail "VMS Mail" message ---- From: Albert Smith on Wed, Jan 8, 1992 10:16 AM Subject: RE: Boiling Tap Water To: SMTP%"homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com" Ok. If I do decide that I want to boil my tap water to rid it of chlorine, bacteria, etc. how long should I boil it? I would suppose that it would be long enough to rid the water of the nasty stuff, but not so long that any minerals in the water become concentrated too much from the reduced volume. What would therefore be the acceptable range? -Albert Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 09:24:41 MST From: jeorg at chs.com (Houck) Subject: pittsburgh would someone from (familiar with) pittsburgh mail me some suggestions for brewpubs, bars with good beer, and/or brewery tours? thanks so much jeorg houck jeorg at chs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1992 11:56 EDT From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: boilin' and blowin' John asks: >Last night I brewed up a batch of pale ale. For the first time since the >discussion several months ago on boil-overs, I remembered to skim off the >pre boil scum on top of the wort. For the first time, I had no boil-overs! >Not even a hint. Needless to say I was impressed. The scum has a great >creamy character to it. Does anyone know if pulling this stuff off the >wort causes any taste or head retension change? I've been skimming the pre-boil scum for years and I've detected no taste or head retention change. In fact, if you taste the stuff, you'll find it to be quite astringent--another reason I'm happy to have it out of there. And Dave warns: >When Oz arrived at the brewery downstairs he found that the shiny carboy, >which had previously been holding his happy yeasties, was now in about a >zillion pieces. Looks like it's time to post my usual warning about blowing off through siphon hose. ***DON'T DO IT*** It's dangerous. If you're blowing off using a right-side up carboy, use the 1" ID siphon hose. For those interested in the upside-down system, the BrewCap uses 1/2" hose and we've found that to be as small as you can go and still be safe. No one's ever blown a carboy with the BrewCap. And lastly, some feedback for you guys who rely on word-wrap on your terminals. All words past the first line just run right off the screen here. I'd sure like to know what you're saying!! Cheers and beers! Kinney Baughman | Beer is my business and baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu | I'm late for work. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 09:07:30 PST From: millette at ohsu.EDU (Robert Millette) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #796 (January 07, 1992) I am looking for viable seeds for Humulus lupus. I know that root division is a faster propagation technique, but I'm interested in making polploidal hop vines. The seeds are soaked in a dilute solution colchicine and then germinated normally. So, anyone got some Hop seeds? I would like to try several cultivars from different regions. I will share my results both intelectual and horticultural. Thanks in advance, JAY D. ALLEN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 11:08 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: Explosion at Oz Brewery Dave-- >When Oz finally found his blow off tube, it was dirty and >blocked with hop pellet residue. Oz was amazed how a little gunk >could cause such a big boom. So were Mr. and Mrs. Oz. By any chance, was Oz's blowoff tube a simple 3/8" siphon hose? I haven't read Papazian's New CJoHB, but in the first issue he recommended a regular siphon hose for a blowoff tube. I had a similar misforture as Oz, but luckily only my stopper blew. There was beer dripping from the ceiling in the aftermath and only 2 of 5 gallons left in the carboy. Since then I switched to a 5/8" OD -- 1/2" ID hose and have had no problems. You can even use a 1.125" hose right in the neck of the carboy (no stopper). Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 92 12:26:19 -0500 From: Dave Coombs <coombs at bashful.cup.hp.com> Subject: Re: boil-over preventer I have one of those thingos. I am no phsycist, but it seems to aggregate the little bubbles that form under it into larger ones that slip periodically from under the lip of the thing. dave Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 11:31 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: Metal brew Jim writes: > I have a batch of nut brown ale bottled and aged a little more >than a week, and it currently has a very metallic taste, and little >or no body. I used a can of nut brown extract that I got as a Christmas >present, no adjuncts, boiled with an ounce of Cascade hops, and finished with >half an ounce of Northern Brewers (it's all I had at the time). The >fermentation went well, and I bottled after 4 days (primed with corn >sugar). The brew cleared up fairly rapidly (1-2 days), but has not developed >much carbonation at all. What could have gone wrong here? > and then goes on to add: > I used my trusty stainless steel stock pot, >sanitized everything with a bleach solution and rinsed well, etc., etc., as >usual. I checked the Troubleshooting issue of Zymurgy and found nothing that you could have done wrong in the table or the section on Metallic taste. It could be your water, but as I wrote recently, if you're used to the taste of the water, you shouldn't be that sensitive to that taste in the beer. Get a water analysis and check the Iron content. The Troubleshooting issue did, however, mention that two constituents (1-octen-3-One and 1,5-Octadien-2-one) have the source "Lipids from malt or brewing adjuncts such as rice, corn, etc." This would be the fault of the extract manufacturer. What brand was it? Maybe other Digesters have had problems with this extract? Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 12:04 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Samuel Smith's CORRECTION Recently, I posted a discussion of fermenter dimensions in which I said that the shape (actually, the shallowness) of the fermenters used by Samuel Smith's Tadcaster Brewery causes an increase in the production of diacetyl. I had read this somewhere a while ago and I'm not sure if the dimensions of the fermenter have anything to do with diacetyl production. Yesterday, I received my copy of Terry Foster's "Pale Ale" from the AHA. I immediately checked the fermenters used in Tadcaster and sure enough, nothing is mentioned about dimensions. I hope Terry forgives me for quoting one paragraph, but I'm certain that any serious Pale Ale brewer will eventually buy this book anyway - -- I love it! Here's what Terry writes on pp. 20-21: " Yorkshire brewers in another important pale are brewing center, Tadcaster, had a different type of yeast and developed their own technique for handling it. This was the Yorkshire Stone Square System. It is a circulating system like the Burton Union System, but with a very different purpose. Circulation in the Unions is designed to acheive good separation of a poor-settling yeast from the beer. The Yorkshire brewers had a highly flocculent yeast which would rapidly settle out, giving poor attenuation in traditional "rounds." So the Stone Square circulation system was designed to continually rouse the fermenting wort, keeping the yeast in suspension until full attenuationhad been achieved. A side effect of using such yeasts is that the beer may have high levels of diacetyl; the resulting "butterscotch" flavor is often an accepted characteristic of beers brewed in this way. Incidently, in the British hombrewing revival of the 1960's and 70's, such rousing was mistakenly assumed to be essential for all yeasts and recipes often recommended rousing the wort twice daily. Not only is this usually unnecessary, it is also an excellent way of starting bacterial infections!" In the associated picture of the "Slate tanks of the Yorkshire Stone Square system," the tanks appear to be about 8' by 8' and (if the brewer in the picture is not on a ladder) about 4' high. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 10:39:24 MST From: Eric Mintz <ericm at bach> Subject: boil-over preventer (response to Dave Ballard) Hey now all you physicists- I got this thing in my stocking this year that is supposed to prevent boil-overs (all kinds, not just beer). [...snip...] It didn't seem to work too well 'cause there was soon spud foam oozing all over the stove. Dave, as I understand it, these disks don't *prevent* boilovers, they just clank around on the bottom of the pan to warn the cook that a boil is eminent. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 09:14:27 PST From: objy!sun19!bobm at Sun.COM (Bob Muller) Subject: Re: boil-over preventer > Hey now all you physicists- I got this thing in my stocking this year > that is supposed to prevent boil-overs (all kinds, not just beer). > It's a glass disk, about 4" in diameter, with about a 1" lip around > it. It kinda looks like big coaster. The cardboard that it was > attatched to claims that it can also be used as spoon rest (what will > they think of next). > > I haven't used it yet but my mom put one in a pot of spuds on xmas. It > didn't seem to work too well 'cause there was soon spud foam oozing > all over the stove. > > My question is this: why should I expect this to work and if it did > work, what does it do? Should I buy stock in the company that makes > them? Could this change the face of the free world? Tell me, tell me.... I always understood these things "worked" by making a hellatious noise that tells you when the pot is just starting to boil (clatter clatter). Then you come running and turn down the heat or dump in cold water or whatever. Do the instructions give any clue about this? I can't think of any reason why a glass disk would inhibit foaming. --Bob Muller Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 09:09 PST From: janet at indetech.com (Janet Christian) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #797 (January 08, 1992) I'm not sure how I got on this email group, but could you please remove me from it. I don't even drink! Thanks, Janet janet at indetech.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 12:33:31 MST From: pyle at intellistor.com (Norm Pyle) Subject: Blowoff and Bombs As I've stated in this forum before, I use a 7-gallon carboy and fermentation lock as my primary fermenter. I don't worry about blowoff or blowoff hoses or the associated problems with plugged hoses, because of the considerable gap between my 5 gallons of wort and the top of the carboy. Well, Dave Ballard's little fairy tale got me to thinking (sometimes I needs a jump start). If, during high kraeusen, my wort scum did actually rise enough to find its way into the f-lock (and somehow plugging it), I'd be in deep doo-doo like our buddy Oz was. Now, since deep doo-doo is not the desired effect, I have a question: CO2 is heavier than O2 right? So, if I was to put my stopper (with f-lock, or blowoff hose for that matter) on a bit loosely, and pressure did find a way to build up, the stopper would simply fly off. In the normal case, where this did not happen, O2 would not find its way into my carboy, would it? (OK, I lied - two questions). Assuming all this is true, even if the stopper took a trip toward the ceiling, CO2 would still blanket the brew and protect it. For safety sake, I'll use a very light touch on my next batch, unless someone comes up with a good reason against. Comments? Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 14:59:18 EST From: mmlai!gildner at uunet.UU.NET (Mike Gildner) Hello, Has anyone every tried Northwestern Brand malt extract? The syrup is packaged in plastic bags inside a cardboard box. My local homebrew supply shop has 3.3lbs hopped bags for a reasonable $7.95. I was considering buying their Weizen extract for my next batch. Mike Gildner Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 13:56 MTS From: Chuck Coronella <CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU> Subject: Applause for Travels with Barley Bob Devine: That was..., uh, divine!!!! Whew, you made my day with "Travels with Barley". Good Show!! Congratulations!! Way to Go! <Now> I can get back to work, giggling to myself like an idiot. Chuck Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 15:11:21 EST From: Jeanne Sova ASQNC-TAB-IS 5320 <jsova at APG-9.APG.ARMY.MIL> Subject: help REALLY getting started hey gang, i need your help and wisdom! i gave my brother a copy of miller's book for christmas, hoping to get him started and get me lots of homebrew. but he can't seem to get past chapter 2, where it tells him to go to the refrigerator and get a beer!! how do i get him past this part and on to making me beer?? :-) jeanne Return to table of contents
Date: 8 Jan 1992 13:23:09 -0800 From: "Jeff DeMello" <jeff_demello at smtp.ESL.COM> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #797 (Ja Reply to: RE>Homebrew Digest #797 (Janua Please remove my name from your mailing list. Thank you! - -------------------------------------- Date: 1/8/92 1:05 AM To: Jeff DeMello From: CHANGE THIS IF NECESSARY See enclosed file of D.smtp.in.7515 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 18:28:35 EST From: Mike Sharp <msharp at cs.ulowell.edu> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #797 (January 08, 1992) George Fix writes: > Several years ago I used an ill-conceived horizontal mashing system where > hot wort was transfered via a "pump" from the mash tun to the brew kettle, since I'm considering making a recirculating infusion mash system with a pump to transfer to the boiler: should I be concerned? How did you redesign? Just a simple gravity feed or was there more to it than that? The basic ideas of my design are below. Any comments are appreciated. Vessels: 1/2 of a stainless steel drum, ~27.5 gallons with a false bottom (perf. stainless 30% open, 1/8" holes) resting on a stainless angle iron X. 1/2" stainless steel nipple mig welded 1" up from the base of the vessel (affectionately known as the mash-tun from hell -- currently sitting in my hallway) (probably) two 15.5gal kegs welded one on top of the other. (cut the top off one, the bottom off the other, step a lip into one and weld. 1/2" nipple in the bottom from transfer both in and out. I have yet to make this one. The mash tun (1/2 drum) will have a pump attached to its nipple. This will pump to a set of valves which either directs the flow through a tube flash heater or to the boiler nipple. If the flow is through the heater it is then directed to a set of nipples up the side of the drum. Only one of these will be open. This will allow the recirculation to occur at the highest level possible without going over the top of the mash. These nipples will be on the opposite side of the vessel so flow must be across the grain. I do plan to do a lot of stirring to distribute the heat. Heater control will be via a little bit of techie wizardy -- a microcomputer which will control both flow as well as clip the AC to the heater. The boiler, two kegs welded together, will have at least one hot water heater affixed to the bottom a la a *big* BrewHeat. Yes, I know some people believe this will lead to scorching, but I havn't had such a problem with the BrewHeat & I believe with care this will not really effect things much, if at all. The input/output to/from the boiler will be through the single nipple in the bottom. A valve will be attached to allow input from the mash tun pump or output to a cooler and eventually an output keg (gravity fed). --Mike "Its nice to have your own MIG" Sharp Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 92 19:09 CST From: jws3 at engr.uark.edu (JW Smith) Subject: Moribund Metheglin Well, yet another screwed up batch from the Serious Live Rabbits Brewery.... Some friends and I attempted a 4-gallon version of "Quick Mead" from the Cat's Meow recipe book, using 7 pounds of honey and increasing spices and such accordingly. I boiled the honeywort for maybe 20 minutes to kill anything that may have been living in the honey; the reason we did this batch was to use up some old, crystallized honey that we had lying around. I made a yeast started and pitched it when it started to foam. Nine days later, there is NO activity. None. Nada. I haven't checked S.G., but the stuff doesn't smell fermented, and there's no yeast sediment in the bottom. So, how did I screw up? Is Edme ale yeast not suitable for honey? Am I just too impatient? Is crystallized honey chemically changed into something unfermentable? Help save this poor carboy of sugar water, pleeeeeeze.... oh, p.s.: 2 pounds of the honey used was fresh and normal, so you'd think that SOMETHING would happen.... 4-aminobiphenyl, hexachlorobenzene/Dimethyl sulfate, chloromethyl methylether/ 2, 3, 7, 8-Tetrachlorodibenzo-para-dioxin, carbon disulfide/Dibromochloropane, | James W. Smith, University of Arkansas | jws3 at engr.uark.edu | chlorinated benzenes / 2-nitropropane, pentachlorophenol / Benzotrichloride, strontium chromate/1,2-dibromo-3-chloropropane/Watch it run straight down..... Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #798, 01/09/92